Lecture (Weaving)

Dr. Danish
Passage of yarn

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Loom Motions

Primary

Loom Motions Secondary

Auxiliary
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 Positive
Tappet
Negative

Electrical
Shedding motion Dobby
Mechanical

Electrical
Primary motions

Jacquard
Mechanical

Projectile
Shuttle
Picking motion Rapier
Shuttle less
Air
Crank beat up
Beat Up motion Water
Cam beat up
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 1-Shedding
Introduction
oWarp threads are divided into two layers.
oTop layer is called top shed line.
oBottom layer is called bottom shed line.
oThe gap b/w two layers is called shed.

Objectives
oTo raise & lower the healed frames which carry the
warp.
oTo make an opening for passage of picking media.
oTo change the position of warp ends to interlace the
warp & weft as per weave.
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 Tappet/Cam Shedding
oHealed frames operated by tappet cams
oCams are designed according to weave structure
oNo. of cams depends upon the weave repeat
oCams are mounted on tappet shaft
oTappet cam designed for particular weave can not used
for other weave
oStorage of cams is necessary in the mill
oChange of cams requires stoppage for long time

Single Cam Double / Conjugate Cam

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 Tappet/Cam Shedding
➢ Types of Tappet Shedding
oPositive shedding
o Raising & lowering of healed frames is with the help of Double
cams.
oNegative shedding
o Lowering of frames is with the help of single cams & Raising is with
the help of reversing media.
o Reversing Media
o The media which brings the frames in original position, these may be spring,
belts & elastic etc.

➢ Advantage of Tappet Shedding

o Mechanism is simple.
o Initial cost is low.
o Maintenance is easy.
o No problem of design fault in fabric.
o Unless Cams are mounted on cam shaft incorrectly
o High Speed due to simple mechanism and less parts involved.
o Plain, simple twill & simple satin can be produced. 7
Negative Tappet shedding

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Dobby Shedding

oHealed frames are operated by jacks &

levers
oLifting & lowering of frames is controlled by
pattern chain
oIt can control up to 32 healed frames
depending upon the crank shaft length.
oDesign possibilities are crepe , honey comb ,
huckaback , mockleno , bedfordcord etc.

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 Dobby Shedding
oHealed frames are operated by jacks & levers
oLifting & lowering of frames is controlled by pattern chain
oIt can control up to 32 healed frames depending upon the crank shaft
length.
oDesign possibilities are crepe , honey comb , huckaback , mockleno ,
bedfordcord etc.

Positive and Negative Dobbies

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Negative Dobby Positive Dobby
Disadvantage Of Dobby Shedding

oMechanism is complicated.
oInitial cost is high.
oMaintenance cost is high.
oCan produce design fault in the fabric.
oLimitation in loom speed.

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 Jacquard Shedding
oWarp ends are controlled individually by harness cord
oNo of cord = No of ends
oNo healed frame
oPattern possibilities are unlimited.
oComplicated designs may be produced like flowers and
geometrical figures etc.

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Disadvantage Of Jacquard Shedding

oMechanism contains more moving parts

oInitial cost is high
oMaintenance cost is high
oCan produce design faults in the fabric
oDesign & cutting pattern cords require
skilled labour
oSpeed limitations

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 2-Picking

• The motion by which weft yarn is passed through shed is

called picking.

Projectile
Shuttle
Picking motion Rapier
Shuttle less
Air

Water

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Shuttle Loom

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Projectile

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Rapier (Rigid)

Single Rapier

Double Rapier
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Rapier (Flexible)
1 3

2 4

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Air jet Loom

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 3-Beat-up
oBeat up is a process of pushing the last inserted weft/
pick to the fell of cloth by REED.
oReed is closed combed metal strips, uniformly spaced.
oAlso use to control the warp density i.e. EPI

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 Secondary Motions
Secondary motions of weaving are necessary for continuous weaving
process. The continuous weaving process dose not get possible without
these motions.

Let off
Secondary
motions
Take up

1-Let off
The purpose of let-off motion is to release the warp after beating of every inserted pick for
continuous fabric formation and to regulate the warp tension during weaving process.

2-Take-up
The process of withdrawing fabric from weaving zone at a regular rate and then winding the
woven cloth on the cloth roller with the continuous progress of weaving. 21
 Auxiliary Motions

In order to produce a good quality of cloth and to prevent damages

it is necessary to have stop motions on the loom.

1- Warp Stop Motion

The main objective of a warp stop motion is to stop the loom immediately when a
warp yarn breakage occurs during the loom operation.

2- Weft Stop Motion

This motion enables to stop the loom immediately after a weft break or weft running
out.
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Fabric Width
oAt the moment fabric is woven, its width is equal to
reed width.
oAs fabric gets away from reed, it starts narrowing
down, due to
oWeave design
oConstruction
oWeaving tensions
oThese factors effect the fabric crimp which cause
it to shrink

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Temples
oShrinkage can be controlled/prevented by using a temple on each
side of the machine.
oTemple is a metallic device, keeps the fabric stretched by applying
force in weft direction.
oThere are also Full width temples
o Ensure uniform fabric width

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Selvedge

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 Woven Fabric Analysis
Analyse a woven fabric to get Information about that fabric.

Information from woven fabric:

• Yarn particulars
• Counts (Ne)
• Twist per inch
• S or Z twist
• Single or fold yarn
• Yarn’s density-ends (warp) and picks (weft) per inch
• Order of coloring in warp and weft (if applicable)
• Weave/ Design of Fabric
• Crimp% in warp and weft
• Width of warp in reed
• Warp length for a given finished fabric length (m)
• Weight of fabric per unit area (gram/sq.m) (GSM)
• Type of material for both warp and weft
• Type of finishing applied
• Other factors:
• tensile strength, resistance to abrasion, drape, shower resistance, color fastness
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 Face and back of woven fabric

Typical for fabric surface (face) are:

• The face with solid jacquard pattern, pattern weave or printed design.
• In satin and twill weaves, warp float will be on face.
• In fancy weaves, the design may be clear on the front but not the back.
• Fabric with special effects, the effects usually appears on the face. (Printing)
• Smoother and lustrous. (Finishing)
• Soft handle.
While in case of fabric back, knots and imperfections usually appear on the
back.

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 Distinguish of Warp and Weft
Warp Yarns Weft Yarns
1. Run parallel to the selvedge. 1. Run perpendicular to the selvedge.
2. Usually, thinner. 2. May be bulkier.
3. Usually, stronger. 3. May be weaker.
4. Usually have more twist. 4. May have less twist.
5. In an unbalanced weave, are 5. In an unbalanced weave, are usually
usually greater in number. fewer in number.
6. Are usually straighter and more 6. Fancy or special-function yarns are
parallel than filling yarns. usually in the filling direction.
7. If both filament and staple yarns 7. If both filament and staple yarns
are used in one fabric, the filament are used in one fabric, the staple
yarns are usually the warp yarns. yarns are usually the filling yarns.
8. Usually Sized. 8. No sizing.
9. End spacing is more uniform. 9. Pick spacing is more irregular.
10. Higher tension. 10. Lower tension
11. Fabric crimp is usually less for 11. Fabric crimp is usually greater for
warp yarn. filling yarn.

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