Chapter Two

Basics of warping

2.0 Introduction:
Bangladesh is one of the leading exporters of ready-made garments in the world. Our
ready-made garments are mainly produced from two types of fabrics e.g. (i) woven fabric
and (ii) Knitted fabrics. In woven and denim fabrics processing has many types of
machinery to make fabrics. Warping is the first step of woven and denim fabrics
processing. The warping process is one of the weaving preparation processes to produce
weaver’s beams which uses on weaving machines to produce grey fabrics.
2.1 The Basics of Warping:
The warping process is the most significant step of denim and woven fabric production.
The purpose of warping process is to convert the yarn packages into a warper’s beam having
desired width and containing needful number of ends. Uniform tension is maintained on
individual yarns during warping. The yarns are would on the warper’s beam in the form of a
sheet composed of parallel bands of yarns each coming out from a package placed on the
creel. Principle and simplified view of the warping process is shown in figures 2.1 and 2.2 .

Package (Cone)

Beam

Figure 2.1: Principle of warping process

 Figure 2.2: Simplified representation of warping process

2.2 Sequence of operations in weaving shed:

Warping

Sizing

Drawing in

Weaving
2.3 Denim fabric production section:

Warping

Weavers beam preparation section (Scouring, Dyeing, sizing section)

Weaving section.

Finishing section (Singing, Mercerization).

Fabric store.

2.4 Objectives of warping:

 To produce the warp beam for subsequent process.
 To contract a parallel yarn sheet of specified length & width.
 Winding the predetermined length of yarn.
 The entire yarn in the warp beam should be uniformly tensioned.
 Modified the fault of yarn.
2.5 Type of Warping:

There are two most popular methods of carrying out the warping process as -Direct warping
and Sectional warping [2].

Figure 2.3: Direct Warping Figure 2.4: Sectional Warping

2.5.1 Direct Warping:

The direct warping machine also known as beam warping machine. In direct or beam
warping, the yarns are withdrawn from the single-end multi yarn packages on the creel &
directly wound on a beam. It is a very high speed process and is used for making fabric of
single color. Direct warping is used in two ways [3]:

1. Beam warping can be used to directly produce the weaver’s beam in a single operation.
This is especially suitable for strong yarns that do not require sizing such as continuous
filaments & when the number of warp ends on the warp beam is relatively small. This is
also called direct beaming.
 2. Beam warping is used to make smaller intermediate beams called warper’s beams. These
smaller beams are combined later at the sizing stage to produce the weaver’s beam. This
process is called beaming.

2.5.2 Flow Chart of Direct or Beam Warping:

Creel

Yarn Break Sensor

V-Reed/Comb

Beam for Sizing

2.5.3 Prominence of Direct or Beam Warping:

 It is used to make common fabrics in large quantities
 It is used to produce weavers beam from single yarn
 The production is high
 Large amount of yarn is required to produce a weavers beam
 Simple flanged beam is used and drums are not required
2.5.4 Part of Direct warping machine:
The machine can be divided into two parts, namely the headstock and the creel.(Fig. 2.4).

Creel

Headstock

Figure 2.5: Direct warping machines.

The Headstock:
The headstock contains a winding unit with a pressure bar, an expanding comb, a thread break
stop motion and a machine control panel.
The winding unit consists of two small guide rollers and the main draw (drag) roller as well as a
unit to support weaver’s beams of varying widths. The warp sheet is guided around the draw
roller as it emerges from the comb. It is then wound onto the weaver’s beam, the surface speed of
which is kept constant so the yarn can be wound at a consistent tension from start to end of the
beam. When the required length of warp has been wound, the warp is cut and a new empty
weaver’s beam is positioned in its place to continue the process until the desired number of
beams has been produced.

The Creel:
The creel essentially has the package holder, tensioner and slub catcher. There are various
designs of the creel but the V-creel is most suitable and popular for direct warping. The package
change mechanism could be a revolving type or the trolley type. H-creels are also used by some
industries. The V-creels are usually fitted with centrally controlled tensioners whereas H-creels
are fitted with individually controlled tensioners. Centrally controlled three post tensioners work
in synchronization with the machine speed to provide uniform tension during beam build up.
Self-compensating tensioners provide uniform tension in the delivered yarn irrespective of the
package diameter and machine speed. The modern creel is also fitted with optics-based
electronic stop motion and an air blower for better performance of the process.
2.5.5 Yarn path diagram of direct warping machine:

Figure 2.6: yarn path diagram of direct warping machine

2.5.6 Advantages of High Speed Warping:

Various advantages of high speed warping process are-

1. Its efficiency is high than sectional warping process.

2. Creel capacity is high.
3. It is used to produce common fabric.
4. Its working speed is high.
5. Higher production of creel.
6. Production is high here.

2.5.7 Disadvantages of High Speed Warping:

Some disadvantages of high speed warping process are in the below:

1. To produce warp beam, higher amount of yarn is required.

2. Here, final beam is achieved after completing sizing process.
2.5.8 Sectional warping:
Sectional warping is preferred over beam warping for multi-coloured warp. Here the entire width
of the warping drum is not developed simultaneously. It is developed section by section as
depicted in Figure 1.6. As only one section is built at a time, a support is needed at one side of
the drum. This is provided by making one side of the drum inclined. The inclination can be of
two types.
 Fixed angle
 Variable angle (70, 90, 110 etc.)

As the winding of one layer is completed on the drum, the section of ends is given a requisite
traverse so that the end at one extreme corner touches the inclined surface. Thus it gets support
from the inclined surface. As the process continues, the thickness (or height) of the section
gradually increases. When requisite length has been wound in a section, next section is started by
shifting the expandable reed assembly by suitable distance.

Figure-2.7: Schematic representation Figure-2.8: Sectional Warping Machine

of sectional warping principle
2.5.9 Features or Characteristics of Pattern Warping or Sectional Warping:
Some important features of pattern warping or sectional warping are-

 It is costly process due to its lower production.

 It is used to produce warp beam from so many small amount of warp yarn.
 Here, tension of warp yarn cannot be kept uniform.
 It is used to produce warp beam by using twisted yarn.
 In case of sectional warping, hand weaving process is used.
 It is used to produce stripe or check fabric.
 It is also used to produce warp beam by using warp yarns which do not required
any sizing materials to be applied before fabric weaving.
 After completing sectional warping, warp beam can be formed immediately here.
 In this warping process, a drum is used.

2.5.10 Working Procedure of Sectional Warping Machine:

The working principle of a sectional warping machine is as follows:

 Yarn ends supplied from creel are spaced very closely and thus form a warp
sheet. This sheet is wound on a beam. The width of the beam between flanges is
equal to the loom warp set width of the section sheet. The no. of section beams is
determined by respective no. of ends in the section and the complete warp.
 Each such sheet of warp ends is called a section.
 Stability of the yarn build of the first section on the reel is obtained by moving the
section sheet laterally at a regular rate fitted at one end of reel.
 When the first section is completed, then the others of its build on the drum is
replica of the original incline sections to the number required for the complete
warp are wound on the next section.
 Fancy warps are prepared by dressing yarn packages in the creel for each section
in conformity with warp pattern plan.
 Section sheets are attached to a beam and withdrawn simultaneously from the reel
by rotation of the beam. For winding the warp on to the beam, this unrolling is
controlled to provide accurate warp tension in textile weaving.
 As beaming off proceeds, the warp beam is moved laterally at the same ate but in
the direction opposite to that of the section during warping. This confirms that the
complete warp sheet runs from the reel to between the beam flanges without the
necessity for lateral deviation.
 2.5.11 Flow Chart of Sectional Warping:

Creel

Yarn Break Sensor

Drum

Beam

2.5.12 Advantages of Sectional Warping:

Some important advantages of sectional warping have pointed out in the below:

1. It is used to produce fancy fabric.

2. Wastage cab be reduces here.
3. Ready weavers beam be obtained here.
4. Beam can be found instantly.
5. Here, small amount of yarn is needed to produce.

2.5.13 Disadvantages of Sectional Warping:

All the disadvantages of sectional warping have mentioned in the following:

1. It is less productive process.

2. Here, yarn tension is less uniform than high speed warping.
3. It is a slow process.
4. This process is less efficient than high speed warping.

2.5.14 Scope of sectional warping:

 Stripe fabric
 Better for sampling
 Sectional warping is better for without sizing example: for filament sometimes.
 Sectional warping is better for lower spac
2.6 Comparison between High Speed Warping and Sectional Warping:

Sl.No High Speed Warping Sectional Warping

1 Uniform tension here. Uniform tension is not available here.
2 Single yarn is used. Twist yarn is used here.
3 Here, warp beam is produced after Here, warp beam is produced after
completing sizing process. completing warping process.
4 It provides higher amount of production. It provides lower amount of production than
high speed warping.
5 It is used to produce grey and colored It is used to produce fancy fabric.
fabric named common fabric.
6 Larger amount of warp yarn is required Small amount of warp yarn is required here.
here.
7 Here, creel capacity is greater than Here, creel capacity ranges 300 to 400.
12000.
8 It is a popular process. It is not popular as high speed warping.