Introduction To Textiles 1
Introduction To Textiles 1
IPE 4109
Nurunnabi
Lecturer
National Institute of Textile Engineering &
Research
Basics of
Fabric Manufacturing
Nurunnabi
National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
Reference Books:
Reference Book:
Fabric Manufacturing=Weaving+Knitting+Nonwoven
Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn a series of interlocking
loops, each row of such loop hanging by the one immediately preceding it. The basic element of knit fabric
structure is the loop intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it on both side and above and bellows it.
Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fiber or
filaments (and by perforating films) mechanically, thermally, or chemically. They are flat, porous sheets that
are made directly from separate fibers or from molten plastic or plastic film.
Braiding, in textiles, machine or hand method of interlacing three or more yarns or bias-cut cloth strips in such
a way that they cross one another and are laid together in diagonal formation, forming a narrow strip of flat or
tubular fabric.
Shuttle Loom/Conventional Loom
Shuttle less loom/Modern loom
1.Projectile 3.Airjet
2.Rapier 4. Water jet
S/J circular knitting machine D/J circular knitting machine
Automatic flatbed knitting machine
Manual flatbed knitting machine
Warp Knitting machine
Braiding Machine
Nonwoven machine
Flow chart of fabric manufacturing technology:
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Yarn from spinning
department
Cone Winding
• Winding is a process of transferring
yarns from ring bobbins, hanks, cones
etc into a convenient form of packages
containing considerably long length of
yarn.
• The main purpose of winding or
packaging is to form a single yarn
package suitable for the next operation.
Creeling
Creel
Creeling
Warping
Warping is aimed at preparing the weaver’s
beam to be set up on the weaving machine.
Warping carries out following operations :
Creation, out of a limited number of warp
threads (creel load), of a warp composed of
any number of threads with the desired
length.
Arrangement of above-mentioned threads
according to the desired sequence.
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Winding
Yarn Package
Pirn
cop
Spool
Warp Beam
Bobbin
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Types of Winding/Winding Machine
A. According to the package Pirn Winding ………
Cop Winding Machine
spool Winding Machine
Cone Winding Machine
Cheese Winding Machine
Warp Winding Machine
Flange Bobbin Winding Machine
1. The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during
all the time of withdrawal from supply packages, otherwise the rate of
breakage will be increased & the structure of the ready cloth will be
impaired.
2. Warping should not impair the physical & mechanical properties of yarn. The
tension should moderate to allow the yarn to completely retain its elastic
properties & strength. The yarn should not be subjected to sharp abrasive
action.
Types of warping:
1. Beam warping – direct warping.
2. Patterns band or drum warping – Sectioned warping,(Indirect warping)
3. Ball warping
Beam Warping
A weavers beam may have up to 10,000 ends and if this were to be produced
directly it would be necessary to have up to 10,000 creel packages. Such an
arrangement would be very difficult to accommodate and
manage ;consequently it is normal practice to produce wrappers beams which
may contain up to about 1000 ends and these are combined at the slashing
stage. Because of the difficulties involved in combining the ends ,patterned
warped beams are seldom produced on the direct system and any pattern that
is produced is achieved by combining beams of various colors at the later stage
of slashing.
4. Yarn cleaner: To remove various faults of yarn like slubs, neps etc.
5. Suction fan or blower: To remove the dirt & dust from the yarn.
Crossed ends:
Due to
Faulty knotting after yarn breakage.
Tying of broken ends.
Loose warp.
Remedy: Knotting and tension controlled.
Faults & Remedies of Warping:
Snarl formation in the warp:
Due to
Over tension.
Improper twist.
Position of guide.
Remedy: By proper tension and twist.
Missing ends:
Due to
Faulty stop device.
Exhausted cone or bobbin.
Absence of cone or bobbin on creel.
Remedy: By correct stop device is used
Hard beam:
Due to high tension.
Remedy: Tension and pressure maintained.
Faults & Remedies of Warping:
Unequal length :
Due to faulty measuring device.
Remedy: correct measuring device.
Broken ends:
Remedy: To be joined carefully the yarn.
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Object of sizing:
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Requirement of sizing:
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Size ingredients & their function:
1. Adhesive: Generally starch of maize, corn, rice, potato & CMC, PVA, PVC are used as
adhesive. Tamarin is used as adhesive on jute yarn. The adhesive is granule form is mixed
water & heated to form a paste which ultimately becomes viscous fluid.
Function:
a) To improve strength.
b) To improve abrasion resistance.
c) To increase extensibility.
2. Lubricant or Softener: Mineral oil, linseed oil, coconut oil, vegitable oil,tallow, japan
wax,vegitable wax are used as a lubricant.
Function:
a) To make the yarn soft & slippery.
b) To reduce stiffness.
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3. Antiseptic or Antimildew agent: Salicylic acid, Zinc chloride, phenol carboxylic
acid are used as antiseptic agent.
Function:
a) It helps to store the yarn without damage.
b) Protect yarn from bacteria or fungus formation.
4. Deliquescent or Hygroscopic Agent: Glycerin, calcium chloride, are used as
deliquescent agent.
Function:
a) Prevent brittleness of size.
b) Helps to keep standard moisture regain.
5. Weighting agent: China clay, French chalk, sodium phosphate are used as
weighting agent.
Function:
a) Increase weight of yarn.
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6. Wetting agent: Magnesium chloride, avirol, sulphanol A are used as
wetting
agent.
Function:
a) Helps to wet yarn instantly.
7. Tinting agent: Blue is used as tinting agent.
Function:
a)To increase lusture or brightness.
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Types of sizing:
1. Pure sizing: This types of sizing is done for unbleached fabric. 3-10% size
ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.
2. Light sizing: This types of sizing is used for Dyeing & Printing of woven fabric.
11-15% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.
3. Medium sizing: This types of sizing is used for increase of strength & weight of
fabric. 16-40% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.
4. Heavy sizing: This types of sizing is used for increase the weight twisted &
lower count yarn. Above 40% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.
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Techniques of sizing:
* Slasher sizing
* Emulsion sizing
* Foam sizing
* Hot melt sizing
* Electrostatic sizing
* High pressure sizing
* Combined sizing
* Solvent sizing.
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Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in
07/17/2023 Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in
Textile (BUTEX)
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Faults in sizing:
1. Sticky warp.
2. Gum spot.
3. Under slashed yarn.
4. Over slashed yarn.
5. Over dried yarn.
6. Non uniform sizing.
7. Cross or lost ends.
8. Improper boiled of yarn.
9. Incorrect warp length.
10. Dirty warp.
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Loom/Weaving Machine
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History of Loom
• Weaving process was introduced to human society
• Major developments in textile took place in England
• Woven fabrics was produced by at least two people employed on
loom
Horizontal loom
Hand loom
1. Primitive or Vertical loom.
Pit loom: This loom is created by sunking four posters
into the ground and with an overhang sley.The thread
work inside the pit,so that the warp threads may absorb
moisture and better weaving will result.In this loom the
combination of sley & shuttle boxes.In 1733 A.D John
kay of Bury,England invented the"Fly Shuttle".This
invention wsa an extreamlyn important event in the
history and development of weaving.
3. Frame loom:
Frame loom: Frame looms almost have the
similar mechanisms that ground looms hold. The
loom was made of rods and panels fastened at
the right angles to construct a form similar to a
box to make it more handy and manageable.
This type of loom is being utilized even until
now due to its economy and portability.
4. Chittaranjan loom.
Chittaranjan loom:A type of
semiautomatic loom of sturdy
construction made of iron and
wood commonly used in Bengal is
known as Chittarangan loom.This
loom also called Japani loom.
5.Hattersley Loom
Hattersley Loom:In 1856 hattersley and hill of
kighley,Yourkshire act in the same manner as a
power loom excepting the movement of the slay
which may either be operated manually or by
motive power to the top shaft,but the loom is
constructed with lighter foming.
Power loom
Power Loom: This type of loom is not drive
by hand only eclectic power is used.
Air jet loom: This looms use a jet of air to propel the
filling yarn strength the shed,It requires uniform filling
yarn. They are suitable use with medium weight yarns
then very light and very heavy yarn.
7. Water jet loom
Water jet loom:A pre measured length of filling yarn is
carried across the loom by a jet of water.It can produce
superior quality of fabrics.
Rapier loom:These loom are competitors to the missille
looms.There are two types of rapier looms.Long rapier & double
rapier long/single rapier that carries the weft across the width
from one side of the loom to another.Double rapier that is one on
each side of the loom.One rapier feed the filling yarn half way
through the shed of warp yarn to the arm the other side,which
reach in and takes it across the rest of the way.
Projectile Loom: This picking action is accomplished
by a series of small bullet projectiles which grip the
filing yarn and carry it through the shed and return
empty.
Multiphase loom
Sultzer Ruti, the manufacturer of a multiphase machine, states that its loom will
insert upto 5,400 meters of pick per minute.
LOOM MOTION
Loom
Drafting: The process of passing yarn through the drop wire is called drafting.
Drawing: The process of passing yarn through the heald eye is called drawing.
Denting: The process of passing yarn through the reed is called denting.
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07/17/2023 AZMIR
Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in
07/17/2023 Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in
Textile (BUTEX)
Tappet vs Dobby vs
Jacquard
Shedding Mechanism
Tappet Loom & Tappet shedding Mechanism
Dobby Loom & Dobby shedding Mechanism
Jacquard Loom & Jacquard shedding Mechanism
Advantages of tappet shedding:
• Simplest
• Cheapest
• If properly used, it gives the best results within its capacity
• Action is certain
• It is capable of lifting heavy weights with less wear and tear than
other shedding mechanisms
• Less wear and tear
• Consumes less power and give greater output
Defects of tappet shedding:
Picking:
The process of passing through warp
shed during weaving is called picking. It is
the 2nd primary motion in weaving.
Objective of picking:
Open Loop
• Wale: Vertical column of needle loop.
• Course: Horizontal row of needle loop.
Stitch Density: Wales per Inch × Course per Inch.
Stitch length: Needle loop + Sinker loop
United Needle
Needle:
Independent Needle
Working Width: In flat knitting m/c, the distance from first needle to the last needle
is known as working width.
Gauge: Number of needle per inch.
Pitch: The distance the center from one needle to the center of another needle is
known as pitch.
GSM
Stitch Length
• Open lap
• Close lap
Over lap
Under lap
O = over lap
U = under lap
MECHANICAL PRINCIPAL OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGY
1. NEEDLE: There are various types of needle are available in market which can
be divided in the following group.
2. Holding down Sinker: The second function is hold down the old loop a lower
level on the needle stem, then the new loop which are being formed and prevent to
old loops from being lifted as the needles rise to clear from their hooks.
3. Knocking Over Sinker: The third function of the sinker is to knock over the
old loops on the neck of the new loops.
3. CAM
The knitting cams are hardened steels and they are the assembly of different cam
plates so that a track for butt can be arranged. Each needle movement is obtained by
means of cams acting on the needle butts.
Negative feeding
YARN PATH DIAGRAM
Finally threaded
to needle by
guide
CYLINDER PARAMETER
Diametre = 15 inches
Gauge = 25
Pitch = 2.5 mm
ALBUM
ALBUM
Double jersey circular knitting machine : The structure in
which the face and back loop occurs along to the coarse
successively but all the loops of a wale is same is called rib
structure. The circular knitting machine which is used to
produce the rib structures is known as rib machine.
Functions of rib circular machine's different
part
1.Creel:Creels are the knitting elements which carry the
yarn packages to feed the knitting zone.
2.Feeder:The feeders feed the yarn into the needles
hooks and control the needle latches in their position
while the needles attain their position.
3.Dial:Dial is the upper steel needle bed used in double
jersey knitting mc. Into the grooves of the dial ,the
needles are mounted horizontally and near allowed to
move radically in and out by their dial cam.
4. Guide: Guides control the yarn path which is very
necessary
Functions of rib circular machine's different part
5. Needle: It is the principal element of knitting m/c.
The function of the needle to retain old loop & to
receive the new loop.
6. Cam: The cams are the mechanical devices which
convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable
reciprocating action for the needles.
7. Cylinder: The cylinder is a steel circular bed
having grooves on its outer periphery where the
needles are mounted.
8.Fabric Spreader: A simple fabric spreader is a
solid wooden plate, placed above the take down
rollers & held in position by the fabric tube.
9.Cloth roller: this mechanism withdraw the fabric
from the needles & winds them into cloth roller
WARP KNITTING
WARP KNITTING
Raschel, made with latch needles,
Main products
• Nets
• Curtains
• Technical fabrics
• Covers
• Covering sheets
WORKING PRINCIPLE
• Warp sheet
• Loops development with the help of
needles
• Loops insertion with the help of needles
• Needle movement controls mechanically
and electronically
WARP KNITTING
In this process;
• yarn sheet is developed (warp sheet)
• and then with the help of needles stitches
are formed by,
• insertion new loop into old loop
WARP KNITTING MACHINE
WARP KNITTED FABRIC
Knitting Element Displacements
The diagram
summarizes the
somewhat
confusing
displacements
made by the guide
bar. The front of the
machine lies to the
right of the
diagram.
Raschel Warp Knitting Machine
Tricot Warp Knitting Machine | Raschel Warp Knitting Machine | Comparison
Between Tricot and Raschel Warp Knitting Machine