I.

Introduction
Masonry work is construction work performed during the erection of stonework on buildings and
structures made of natural and artificial masonry materials.
Masonry work is a complex of processes that includes, in addition to the basic processes (the laying of
brick or other stone in mortar, the delivery and laying out of the stone, and the smoothing of the mortar),
related auxiliary processes (the erection of scaffolding and trestles and preparation of the materials at the
construction site)
The Scope of Masonry Work in Building Construction
1. Locate all underground utilities and their depth and location prior to start of work. All private
utilities shall be traced and marked prior to any removal or demolition of work. A pre-demolition meeting
shall be held with the Park Manager and the owner or the owners representative once all utilities have been
located, prior to any removal or re-routing of utilities and start of work.
2. Call Miss Utility and provide a final copy of the okd paper work to owner.
3. To provide temporary utilities on site, managing personnel on site, providing site surveying,
disposing of construction waste, monitoring schedules and cash flows, and maintaining accurate records.
4. Employ engineering services to design the foundation, slab and wing walls for the pre-engineered
building.
5. Verify all measurements as indicated on the approved site plan, architectural drawings (prepared
by the owner), foundation wall drawings (prepared by the design engineer), and the erection drawings as
designed and instructed by the manufacturer. The contractor to notify the owner, engineer, and the
manufacturer with any discrepancies immediately.
6. Fence off the construction area with 6 temporary construction fence to prevent access during
construction and after the close of the day.
7. Provide erosion and sediment control devices per approved site amendment plan (SPAM).
8. The GC to select a Pre-Engineered metal building manufacturer, which meets or exceeds the
required qualifications as stated under the Building Manufacturer and erector, and present the best fit and
price based on the preliminary design drawings submitted. The selections and the price list shall be
presented to owner for their approval prior to purchase. The metal building shall comply with or exceed the
requirements under the heading Design Requirement for the Metal Building.
9. The contractor is responsible to furnish all required materials, labors, equipment, and tools to
perform all operations necessary to fabricate, erect and construct a prefabricated steel building, all primary
and secondary structural framing members, bolted connections, roof and wall coverings, louvers, roll-up
and swinging doors, flashings, fasteners, closures, sealers and other items as specified by the contract
drawings, manufacturers requirements, and specifications.
10. The contractor is responsible to order the pre-fabricated metal building and the building material
at the earliest possible time to allow for preparation, submittal, and acceptance of the shop drawings by the
owner and preparation of the foundation plan by the design engineer.
11. To manage a team of specialized, licensed and qualified sub-contractors.
12. It is the responsibility of the GC to ensure all fabricated materials meet the requirements of the
accepted and approved shop drawings and they are true and straight. All materials shall be protected from
damage during delivery, storage and installation.
13. Materials shall be installed in strict accordance with the manufacturers instructions. Care shall
be used in assembling to avoid bumping, twisting, dropping, or otherwise damaging the materials.
 14. The contractor shall not remove any excess (unused) construction material from the site without
the owners approval. The owner shall be reimbursed for the unused construction material or keep the
material onsite.
15. The general contractor is responsible to keep a clean and safe construction area at the end of
each work day.

Importance of using proper material in performing masonry work

Masonry Building Materials is an extensive group of building materials and articles of stone like
composition. A distinction is made between natural masonry materials, which are obtained by mechanical
processing of rock (they may sometimes be produced without special processing), and artificial materials,
which are produced by technological processing of a mineral raw material. Because of their good
construction qualities (durability, strength, and frost resistance) and the wide distribution and unlimited
reserves of natural raw materials, masonry materials are widely used in modern construction. They are the
basic building materials for housing, public, and industrial construction, as well as various engineering
structures.
In terms of shape, masonry materials are divided into materials consisting of irregularly shaped
pieces (quarry stone or crushed rock) and dimension articles with a regular shape (blocks, slabs, and shaped
articles). They are divided according to density into three groups: heavy (more than 1, 800 kg/m3), light (1,
8001, 200 kg/m3), and very light (less than 1, 200 kg/ m3). Artificial masonry materials used as thermal
insulation materials may have a density of about 500 kg/cu m.
The main index of masonry materials is the compressive strength, which is characterized by a grade.
According to this feature, masonry materials are divided into high-strength (10300 meganewtons per sq
m [MN/m2], or about 1003, 000 kilograms-force per sq cm [kgf/cm2]), average (2.510.0 MN/m2), and
low-strength (0.45.0 MN/m2). The tensile strength of masonry building materials is less than their
compressive strength by a factor of 715; therefore, masonry materials are often reinforced with fibrous
materials (asbestos, fiberglass, or organic fiber) or metal (steel reinforcement). The masonry materials used
in exterior structures should have some degree of frost and water resistance. Depending on the area of use,
masonry materials are also rated according to water absorption, acid resistance, and wearability.
The natural masonry materials are divided into the following basic varieties, according to the
method of mechanical processing used: sand and gravel, which are produced by sifting and washing
appropriate friable rock; quarrystone, which is produced mainly by mining of limestones, sandstones, and
other sedimentary rock in blasting operations; crushed rock; cut stone and blocks, which are sawn from
light rock (tuff and coquina) directly in the quarries using stone-cutting machines; and racing stones, slabs,
and shaped articles, which are made at specialized stone-working enterprises from decorative rock (marble,
granite, and limestone).
Various requirements established by the appropriate Construction Standards and Rules and GOST
(All-Union State Standard) apply to natural masonry building materials (hydraulic-engineering structures,
road construction, or the external or internal finishing of buildings), depending on their purpose. The most
widespread natural masonry materialssand, gravel and crushed rockare widely used as fillers in
manufacturing concretes and mortars. Quarrystone is used mainly in laying the foundations of buildings
and retaining walls. Sawn stone and blocks are used mainly as local wall materials. Facing stone, slabs, and
shaped pieces with various surfaces (finishes)for example, split, hewn, ground, and polishedare used
largely for exterior and interior finishing of buildings, for flooring, and for manufacturing steps, parapets,
and partitions because of their good decorative qualities and durability as well as a reduction in their cost
as a result of introducing modern processing methods (diamond tools, thermal treatment, and mechanized
methods of splitting).
 Rock is widely used as a raw material for manufacturing various artificial masonry materials (for
example, ceramics, glass, and thermal insulation materials), as well as inorganic binders (gypsum, lime,
and cement). The production of these materials and articles involves processes that alter the composition,
structure, and properties of the natural materials. Artificial masonry materials may be produced from clay
and other ceramics, with subsequent firing (clay brick and ceramic stone); from silicate melts (stone casting,
slag casting, and glass products); and from mixtures containing a binder, such as products made of concrete
and mortar (for example, concrete, reinforced-concrete, and silica-concrete panels and blocks; silica brick).
The most important and most industrial artificial masonry materials are concrete and reinforced-
concrete structural members and products based on mineral binders (cement and lime).

II. Objectives
1. List the different construction materials needed in performing masonry works.
2. Specify the different material properties and qualities of masonry building materials.
3. Outline the proper handling and utilization of different masonry building materials.

III. Methodology

a. Concrete Hollow Block Laying

Masonry block walls or concrete block walls are very common walls offering many advantages. Building
concrete block walls is easy but requires patience and precision for a neat project. Here are some steps that
you could follow to help you build a concrete block wall. Make sure you have the right block for your
product and consider acquiring some standard blocks and half-blocks with square or rounded corners to
facilitate the installation process.

First Step: Stake the Wall

Start by marking out the outside of the concrete block wall perimeter. Set the stakes with a rubber a mallet
and use a twine line that will help you determine if the lines are straight.

How to Build Concrete Block Wall: Foundation

Prepare a foundation for the wall. Normally foundation for concrete or masonry block walls are made out
of concrete and should be at least four inches wider than the width of the block. Allow the concrete
foundation to acquire strength. When the block wall is built over an existing concrete slab, make sure that
the surface is moist and one-inch bed of mortar has been spread over the footing.

Learn How to Lay Blocks

Start mixing mortar mix as instructed. The first course of blocks should be installed below floor level and
inside the foundation trench. This first line of concrete blocks shall rest on top of a layer of mortar mix.
Spread mortar along the sides of the block and remove the excess mortar with a trowel.

Repeat until the first course has been installed. Check the course with a level. Then, even it out with a
thicker layer of mortar, if it is not. For best result make sure there is a 3/8 inch gap between the blocks. This
gap will then become the vertical joint.

Installing the Second Course on a Concrete Block Wall

Repeat the action performed in the previous step to add another course of blocks.
Blocks can be set in such way that will create an interlocking pattern meaning that the ends of one course
of blocks sit above the center of the blocks beneath them. Keep installing blocks and try to install no more
than six courses per day. Allow the mortar to set completely before continuing to lay concrete blocks. Once
the mortar is hard, remove excess mortar and smooth the joints.

How to Cut Concrete Blocks

Concrete blocks at one point will need to be cut so they can be installed in corners and along joints. The
best way to cut a concrete block is to use a hammer and chisel to create a line where the cut is desired. This
line should be created after you have measured the void on which the block will be installed. Using the
hammer chip away the block along the line. Be careful on not to apply excessive force while hammering
otherwise the block could be broken into smaller pieces. Continue hammering until the block breaks apart.

Structural Masonry Walls

When the concrete block wall needs to be reinforced then, that is considered a structural masonry wall.
Vertical reinforcement can be installed within the block cells and filled with mortar. Horizontal
reinforcement might be needed as well, using prefabricated welded wires that are placed along the
horizontal joints of in between courses.

The horizontal reinforcement will also prevent or control shrinkage cracking.

When the wall is designed as an exterior wall then another wythe of masonry is recommended. If single
wythe exterior walls are to be installed, a barrier should be provided on the exterior surface, such as a fluid-
applied, breathable masonry coating or over-cladding (EIFS, metal panels, stucco and similar) to prevent
water penetration into the masonry. It could be possible that a second wythe is to be installed to support
loads.

b. Cement Wall Plastering/Stucco

Cement plastering is commonly used as ideal coating for external and internal surface of wall. Cement
plaster is usually applied in a single coat or double coat. Double coat plaster is applied where thickness of
plaster is required to be more than 15 mm or when it is required to get a very fine finish. The process of
applying a double coat cement plaster on wall surface consists of the following 5 steps.

STEP-1 (PREPARATION OF SURFACE FOR PLASTERING)

Keep all the mortar joints of wall rough, so as to give a good bonding to hold plaster.
Clean all the joints and surfaces of the wall with a wire brush, there should be no oil or grease etc.
left on wall surface.
If the surface is smooth or the wall to be plastered is old one, then rake out the mortar joint to a
depth of at least 12 mm to give a better bonding to the plaster.
If the projection on the wall surface is more than 12 mm, then knock it off, so as to obtain a uniform
surface of wall. This will reduce the consumption of plaster.
If there exist any cavities or holes on the surface, then fill it in advance with appropriate material.
Roughen the entire wall to be plastered.
 Wash the mortar joints and entire wall to be plastered, and keep it wet for at least 6 hours before
applying cement plaster.

STEP-2 (GROUND WORK FOR PLASTER)

In order to get uniform thickness of plastering throughout the wall surface, first fix dots on the wall.
A dot means patch of plaster of size 15 mm * 15 mm and having thickness of about 10 mm.
Dots are fixed on the wall first horizontally and then vertically at a distance of about 2 meters
covering the entire wall surface.
Check the verticality of dots, one over the other, by means of plumb-bob.
After fixing dots, the vertical strips of plaster, known as screeds, are formed in between the dots.
These screeds serve as the gauges for maintaining even thickness of plastering being applied.
Dots and Screeds
Dots and Screeds

STEP-3 (APPLYING FIRST COAT OR UNDER COAT OR RENDERING COAT)

In case of brick masonry the thickness of first coat plaster is in general12 mm and in case of concrete
masonry this thickness varies from 9 to 15 mm.
The ratio of cement and sand for first coat plaster varies from 1:3 to 1:6.
Apply the first coat of plaster between the spaces formed by the screeds on the wall surface. This
is done by means of trowel.
Level the surface by means of flat wooden floats and wooden straight edges.
After leveling, left the first coat to set but not to dry and then roughen it with a scratching tool to
form a key to the second coat of plaster.

STEP-4 (APPLYING SECOND COAT OR FINISHING COAT OR FINE COAT)

The thickness of second coat or finishing coat may vary between 2 to 3 mm.
The ratio of cement and sand for second coat plaster varies from 1:4 to 1:6.
Before applying the second coat, damp the first coat evenly.
Apply the finishing coat with wooden floats to a true even surface and using a steel trowel, give it
a finishing touch.
As far as possible, the finishing coat should be applied starting from top towards bottom and
completed in one operation to eliminate joining marks.
After completion of the plastering work, it is kept wet by sprinkling water for at least 7 days in
order to develop strength and hardness.

c. Concrete/Cement Tile Laying

The standard thickness of floor-grade cement tiles is usually 5/8" (16mm) up to 3/4" (18mm) for larger
format tiles. Allow for adequate room under doors, and consider the height difference when transitioning
to other materials. Remember to add in the thickness of the thinset mortar you use to lay the tile. Thinner
tiles may be produced at a premium for walls and special applications.
As these cement tiles are the work of artisans using natural pigments, variations in color from tile to tile are
to be expected and are part of the natural appeal of this type of tile, as are its imperfect edges.

If you are laying tile on a concrete slab, be sure the slab is completely cured to prevent white efflorescence
spots from showing up later on the surface of the tile as water evaporates through it.

Assuming that your floor joists are sufficient and not flexing, you can install tile on a wood floor if you first
put down a cement backer board like you would do in a shower behind the tile. Your installer can use
Wonderboard, HardiBoard, or other dimensionally stable fiber/cement wall boards. Magnesium Oxide
boards are also highly recommended.

Installing our cement tiles is a fairly simple process, but it must be done with care. You are creating a work
of art and it is very important that the planning and measuring has been done carefully.

It is imperative to use a grout release. See our complete instructions for information about using a first
application of our NanoSealant to serve as a grout release.

The typical encaustic cement tile floor has a central "bordered carpet"
surounded by solid colored tiles. The center of the room or the center of
the central design elements must be located. Then the calculations are
made to determine the number of tiles needed to create the desired
pattern in

each direction. For an central rug-like design, measure the area to be

tiled, and find the center of two opposite walls or sides. Use these points
to snap a chalk line across the length of the area, in the center of the floor,
dividing the room or area in half. Then snap another chalk line
perpendicular to the first so the two lines cross in the center of the room.
Check where the lines intersect with a carpenter's square to make
absolutely sure the center point has a 90-degree angled quadrant. Start by laying a tile at the intersection of
the lines, and then use the lines as a guide, as you work your way outward toward the walls in each quadrant.

Each cement tile is an individually hand-made work of art and variations,

such as in thickness, color shade, and imperfections like irregular edges
are inherent to this type of product. These characteristics add to the
products natural appeal and do not compromise the performance of the
tile. For this reason, it is important for an entire order to be placed at once
as colors can vary slightly from batch to batch. You want all your tiles
to have been made at the same time. Mix tiles from different boxes as
you lay them.

The surface on which you are installing the tile must be smooth and free
from debris, grease, or wax.
 On a complicated floor layout, be sure to do a "dry run" with some of
your tile to be sure that your borders will fall where you want them and
that any tile that you want centered in front of a doorway, is properly
aligned. Do not step on your tile during this layout exercise. Alternately,
make color copies on paper and use these for your experimental layouts.

For areas subject to moisture like showers, around pools, etc, the
underlayment should be sealed with a waterproof membrane or other
moisture-resistant product. Cement-fiber board makes an ideal
underlayment for tile in wet locations. These boards are often referred to
as cement board, wonderboard, duraroc, hardiboard, magnesium oxide
board, MgO board, etc. The cement board is composed of cement and
fiber that gives it its strength and resistance to moisture.

Cement tiles are absorbant and should be soaked in water for a few
seconds before they are laid in the thinset mortar bed. The purpose of
this is to prevent the tiles from pulling moisture from the mortar,
preventing it from curing properly.

One method of installation of cement tiles requires a double spread of

thinset adhesive. The thinset must be spread on the floor and also over
the entire underside of the tile. This is often called 'back-buttering' the
tile. Using spot dollops of thinset buttered on the back will cause the tiles
to sit unevenly and later crack.

We have had fine results by using a 3/4" toothed trowel or a 1/2 notched
trowel if 3/4 inch is not available.

To level your tiles, do not use a mallet of any kind. If you do, you will
end up with cracks. Use your hand only. If you let the installer use a
mallet, cracks may show up later, even if you do not see them
immediately.

Press tile into position with a forward and back motion perpendicular to
adhesive ridges to collapse the ridge and ensure 100% layer of thinset
under all parts of your tile.
 You may want to have a couple of extra old coolers around or an empty
tub for the tile layer to place the wet tiles in to allow them to drain a bit
before he lays them. You do not want them so wet that they dilute the
thinset mortar bed.

For interiors the tiles can be installed edge to edge about 1/16 of an inch
apart and laid on a perfectly leveled and clean surface. Most of our
patterned designs are intended to be turned 90 degrees each tile one is
laid to form the pattern.

Use untinted grout only, or closely-matched grout on solid color tiles.

Improper installation can cause the tiles to be stained by the grout tint,
causing haze over dark regions, or making lighter regions appear dingy.

The tiles must be handled carefully to avoid damaging the edges.

It is very important that they are set perfectly level during installation.
You can stretch a string across your floor to aid in keeping the tile level.
To do this, wrap a spare tile with string off to one side and stretch it
across to another tile on the other side of the room. Shim the two tiles
supporting the string to tile+thinset height. Or you can keep a strong,
straight board handy to check for levelness. Slide a quarter across your
tiles to determine if you have lippage (uneven height).

Cement tiles can be cut using a wet saw with a diamond blade. This can
also help you create more intricate layouts with a cost savings. For
instance, if you want to have a strip of 2" x 8" border, you can order 8"
x 8" tiles, and cut three pieces from each, for a lower price per square foot.

Once you set your tile in the thinset on the floor and have it level, use the sharp edge of a tile tool to scrape
away the thinset immediatly next to the tile (about 1/2 inch wide), so when you place your next tile, excess
mortar has someplace to spread into and does not get pushed up into your grout line.

Any residue of mortar left on the surface of the tile must be cleaned immediately to avoid staining. After
allowing the area to dry completely, clean any excess adhesive or spots, if any, with a #180 or #220medium
or fairly coarse sand paper. (If you use a fine sandpaper you can actually hone or polish the tile in that spot
and it will show) See also more information on cleaning up after grouting in our printable Installation
Instructions.
Do not step on the tiles until the mortar has cured and dried. Once it can bear weight, continue being very
cautious. Until the tiles are sealed, they are very succeptible to being permanently marred by spills, grout,
and ground-in dirt. If there is any other construction going on concurrently with the tile installation, make
sure that all other trades understand not to walk on the raw tiles. There are products available such as
RamBoard that can provide a breathable barier walkway over set, but not yet sealed installations.

If you are installing a sub-floor heating system: do not under any circumstance allow the system to be
powered on until the installation is complete. Many sub-contractors may want to test their system as soon
as the tile is set, so they can move on to the next job. Testing a sub-floor heating system beneath wet tiles
can permanently damage your flooring.

If possible, try to find an installer who has had some experience with mosaico hidraulico/cement tile/Cuban
tile. Check with the older craftsmen in your area, or those from Latin America, but be sure they can read
our Printable Cement Tile Installation Instructions. If they can only read Spanish, that's no problem, just
make sure to print a copy of our Spanish version: La Baldosa de Cemento Instalacin.

Pre-Grout Sealing

Whether using our recommended installation method, or any other, cement tiles must be protected by a
sealant or grout-release before grouting the tile. Cement tile is very porous. Grout applied over raw tile can
penetrate into the surface of the tile.

Our recommended Villa Lagoon Tile Grout-Release and NanoSealant requires two coats, and the first coat
should be applied before grouting, to serve this purpose.

Before sealing, the mortar and tiles should be completely dry. Trapping moisture into the installation can
cause moderate to severe aesthetic problems, such as ghosting, or a blotchy appearance. The installation
will need at least 24-36 hours to cure and dry before the pre-grout sealing. This may take longer in high
humidity. The tile should be completely clean as well; any dirt or mortar stains in the tile when sealed will
remain there forever.

With any sealant or grout release, you will want to apply the product very thinly: more is rarely better.
Thick applications of any product can dry unevenly, cause a gummy surface, or drip over the sides of the
tile, preventing adhesion between the tile sides and the grout. Please refer to our printable instructions for
applying VLT NanoSealant. The NanoSealant will require 24 hours to cure before traffic, and 48 hours
before it reaches maximum hardness.

Grouting Cement Tiles

Use non-sanded grout for joints under 1/8 inch. Interior grout lines in cement tile floors are usually very
thin. On exterior installations or very wet areas such as bathrooms, use wider grout lines with sanded grout.

Do not use dark colored grout on tile with light colors. Test any grout on a scrap of tile to be sure there will
be no staining. A non-tinted neutral gray is best for tiles with light and dark areas.

Traditionally a very narrow joint is used between the tiles indoors. Recommendation is not more than 1.0
to 1.5 mm. You will usually want to use a very neutral color joint mix or one similar to your tile colors.
Traditionally, the color grout used for hydraulic cement floor tiles is light grey cement. On tightly spaced
tiles use a thin consistency grout, not a thick paste.

The grout should be thin enough to completely fill the narrow joints.

Apply the grout with a rubber float or with a rubber squeegee, always moving diagonally across the joints.
Any excess grout should be removed with a damp cloth or sponge before it dries.

OR

Another method to clean grout off the tile is the sawdust method:

You need several bags of sawdust depending on the size of the floor.

Grout your tile in the usual manner. When it's ready to clean, dump a pile of sawdust on the floor and
sprinkle it with water to dampen it. Not wet -- just slightly damp. Push the sawdust across the floor with a
push broom with soft bristles, and you'll be amazed. Change to clean sawdust periodically. You may need
to touch up slightly with a sponge, but only slightly.

The sawdust grout cleaning method is used more often in Europe than in the USA. Sometimes a mix of
sawdust and dry grout mix is used initially and the dry grout acts as an abrasive to scrub up the grout
residue.

Once the grout is cured and dry it should be sealed.

Install your tile after all other construction if at all possible. Any construction grime left on the tile before
the final sealant layer will be permanent. If you think you will not be able to avoid construction on top of
your new floor, protect it well with plywood or some other breathable layer.

Let the newly-grouted floor cure and dry thouroughly for at least 24 hours. Sealing the floor tiles too soon
after grouting will trap humidity and spots may appear later.

Sealing the Cement Tile Floor

Only use a sealant that you have first hand experience with if you chose not to follow our recommendations.
We can furnish your sealant with your tile if you like.

Be very weary of tile contractors suggesting their own sealants. Cement tile is a very niche product, and
not all tile-setters have experience with them. If your contractor attempts to veer from our
recommendations, please do seek references from their other clients specifically with cement tile. Ask them
about the age and location of their installation. Ask about maintenance issues, staining, etc. Keep in mind
that not every installation will be subject to the same use. Bedrooms and accent walls, for instance, will not
be subject to the same spills and potential stains as kitchens, bathrooms, and mud rooms. Of course, this is
also good advice for any hiring decision.

Once the grouted installation is dry and clean, apply the final coat of NanoSealant. This provides a final
layer of protection for your tile, as well as protecting and sealing the grout. Please refer to our Installation
Guide for application direction, the final sealant layer will require 24 hours to cure, and 48 hours to reach
maximum hardness.

Cement Tile Floor Care

Cement tiles should be regularly mopped with clean water. Never use acids to clean the encaustic cement
tiles as it will cause damage. Visit our page on cleaning cement tile for more information.

In some cases, particularly with new construction, settling and shifting of the substrate may cause cracks to
develop. Often this occurs along grout lines, but it may open a crack in the sealant layer. This will allow
moisture to penetrate, particularly in wet areas such as bathrooms. When this occurs, our NanoSealant can
be carefully reapplied along the crack. Make sure to allow plenty of time to dry, before doing so.

Polished Tile Floors

There is a professional polishing process called "crystallization" that can give you a very high gloss. This
process uses special equipment. Check your local yellow pages for marble or concrete polishing
professionals if you desire a very high gloss finish. Read more here. You will still need to seal your tiles.

Sand Bed Alternate Method of Installation

Occasionally people ask about the very old-time method of laying cement tile on a packed sand under layer.
It is because of this method that many antique tiles have been salvaged in very good shape. Once you get
the first tile out, you can pop up the others by digging into the packed sand beneath. These sand installations
had very permanent borders or solid walls. The sand cannot shift in the contained area once it is
mechanically packed tight.

We have no first hand experience with this method, but give information here just as a help to people doing
research or restoring an old home. Some people with cement tile that they call Cuban Tile in Florida have
tiles installed this way.

This traditional method calls for laying tile in a bed of thick mortar on stabilized sand or substrate. This
method is seldom used today, has several drawbacks, and requires that a few additional precautions are
taken.

One thing is the immersion of the tiles in water for at least 4 hours before laying. Then it is imperative not
to use a mallet which would crack the tiles.

The possibility of efflorescence (white-grey crystals of salts) appearing after the tiles are laid. Eventually
these may disappear, but only after frequent washing.

There is a long period of drying-out required before being able to seal your tile floor with sealant and wax
or a top coat sealant like those we recommend.

For this method there is a need for tiles to be laid by an experienced professional tile layer familiar with
this technique.
 d. Ceramic Tiles/Brick Veneer/Terra Cotta/Marble Laying

Install ceramic tile over a subfloor thats no less than 1 1/8 inches thick. A thinner subfloor will cause the
floor to flex due to the weight of the tile. A flexing subfloor results in cracked tiles and grout and a lot
of headaches. Most tile manufacturers recommend installing a cement backer board instead of any other
type of underlayment, such as plywood. The boards come in 3-x-5-foot sheets and are available where tile
and grout are sold.

Before you think about setting the tile in place with mortar, make sure that the layout is even from
side to side in both directions. To do so, dry-fit the tiles along the layout lines in both directions
and make sure that the finished layout looks good to you.
One important measurement to note is the width of the tiles that meet the wall. Make sure you never
have less than half of a tiles width at the wall. If you do, adjust the layout until you get an adequate
end tile size. After you establish this, snap a new layout line to follow.
Pick up the loose tiles and set them aside.
Use a notched trowel to spread thin-set mortar over a 3 x 3-foot section at the intersection of the
layout lines.
Trowels come with different-sized notches, so check the tile manufacturers recommendation for
the correct size.
Working in small, square sections say 3 feet x 3 feet is important. Ifyou work with a larger
section, the mortar may harden (known as setting up) before you put the tiles in place. Be careful
not to cover the layout lines.
Begin laying tiles at the center point of the two layout lines, setting each tile into the mortar by
tapping it gently with a rubber mallet.
Use plastic spacers at each tile corner to maintain even grout lines between the tiles. Spacers are
available where tile is sold.
Continue laying tiles until youve covered the mortared area.
Continue the process by applying mortar to another section and then laying tiles.
Fit the last tile in the row at the wall.
This step usually requires that you measure and cut the tile. First, set a scrap tile against the wall
it allows space for grout. Next, place a loose tile directly over the last full tile you laid (this is
the tile youll cut to size). Then place another tile on the loose one and up against the tile on the
wall. Mark the loose tile and cut it to fit along the edge.
After all the tiles are set in the mortar, mix the grout according to the manufacturers instructions
and install it by using a rubber grout float.
Use a sweeping motion, pressing the grout into the gaps.
Wipe away the excess grout with a grout sponge. Let the grout dry slightly and then wipe off the
haze that appears.

Reminder: For most installations, you need a tile cutter, which you can rent. To make a straight cut
with a tile cutter, simply place the tile face up in the cutter, adjust the cutter to the proper width, and
score the tile by pulling the cutting wheel across the tiles face. Then snap the tile along the scored line.

If you need to make a cutout, say to go around a corner, mark the area you plan to cut out. Secure
the tile in a vise or clamps just be sure to cushion the vise jaws to protect the tile from scratches.
 Cut along the marks with a tile saw, which is a hand saw thats similar to a coping saw, except that
it has a carbide saw blade designed for cutting ceramic tile.

If you need to make a round or circular cut, mark the area and then use a tile nipper to nip out small
pieces of tile until you reach the line. A tile nipper is similar to a pair of pliers, but it has hardened
cutting edges for cutting through ceramic tile.

Advantages Of Ceramic Flooring Tile

Ceramic Water Resistance: Glazed ceramic flooring tiles have a protective layer that rests over the
material, making them impervious to water and stain penetration. They are also naturally resistant to
the ravages of high humidity conditions. These properties make them ideal for use in moist
environments such as bathrooms or kitchens.
Unglazed ceramic tiles will need to be sealed in order to protect their surface from liquids. The grout
lines in between ceramic tiles are also susceptible to moisture, and will need to be sealed in order to
make them impervious to water which can otherwise seep down, weakening the installation and causing
the growth of mold.
Durable Ceramic Tile: Ceramic flooring is extremely tough and the tiles are difficult to crack. A
quality installation can last for 10 - 20 years and longer if well maintained. If a single tile does crack
due to a severe impact, the process of replacing that tile is relatively simple.
Maintenance: Ceramic flooring is fairly easy to care for. Dirt, stains, and liquids all rest on the surface,
allowing you to easily wipe or mop them away. Regular maintenance just consists of sweeping or
vacuuming with a soft brush attachment to keep the floor free of dirt and loose debris. If set in stains
do occur you can use most heavy duty cleaners without having to worry about damaging the material.
Ceramic Tile Design Options: Modern manufacturing techniques allow ceramic producers to make
materials which can be printed in numerous ways. Solid tiles can be mixed and matched in patterns or
accented with designs or motifs. They can also be printed to credibly reproduce the look of a number
of hardwoods and natural stones. Finally, the tiles themselves can be cut and shaped into triangles,
rectangles, and planks.
Ceramic Pricing: Most tiles will cost $5 - $10 per square foot, with bargain basement and premium
materials edging those numbers to greater extremes. This makes it a moderately expensive material
priced higher than carpet and lower than hardwood. Depending on where it is installed and how it looks
a ceramic floor can also add long-term value to a property.
Allergen Concerns: Ceramic tiles have a hard, solid surface, that does not tend to attract dirt, dust,
pollen, or other allergens. When these small debris particles do land on a ceramic floor, they stand out
against the surface, making it easy to wipe them away with a mop or sponge. This helps to keep the air
free of irritating materials that can be harmful to asthma sufferers.
 Hard Flooring: Ceramic is extremely hard, which makes it easy to clean and maintain. Unfortunately,
this can also make it difficult and uncomfortable to stand on. Unlike resilient floors, hard tile ceramics
cannot be softened using padded underlayments. This means that these materials may not be suited to
environments where people will be forced to stand for long periods of time.
The hardness of ceramic can, of course, be offset by using throw rugs or area rugs in strategic places
where people tend to stand for long periods of time. This might be behind the counter in a store, or in
front of the sink in a kitchen.
Cold Ceramic Tile: This material does not hold on to heat very well. That means that it can get very
cold in the winter, which can be a shock to your toes first thing in the morning.
The flip side to this is that ceramic can be quite comfortable underfoot on a hot summer day.
Installing Ceramics: Ceramic tiles are hard and heavy and they need to be installed using a variety of
mortars, grouts, and tools. While this is something that can theoretically be done by an amateur it is a
difficult, time-consuming process. In addition, making a mistake can compromise the floor causing
problems down the line.
For these reasons, many people choose to hire a contractor to handle the installation of ceramic floors.
Unfortunately, the installation is labor intensive, so contractors will charge you a significant amount of
the work. This can raise the price of a ceramic tile floor job by as much as 25% - 50%.
Ceramic Tile Weight: Ceramics are quite heavy, which means that they may not always be appropriate
for upper story installations. If you do decide to install ceramic tile on an upper level of a building then
you need to have a qualified professional check the integrity of the structure to ensure that you are not
putting undo stress on it.

e. Washout/Synthetic Adobe/Sandblasting Finish

Sandblasting is one of the many methods used to texture the surface of hardened concrete. The degree of
blasting may vary from light cleaning to a deep cutting operation that exposes aggregates to a three-fourth
of an inch depth of more. Although the actual sandblasting operation is not particularly complicated, certain
procedures and precautions should be followed to insure an attractive surface. The equipment needed for
blasting may vary depending on the depth of cut specified. If the surface is to be gone over lightly to remove
the surfaces "skin", almost any sandblasting equipment will serve. When the blasting operation is to cut
deeper, the capacity of the equipment becomes a matter of considerable importance. Air compressors should
have a capacity of about 300 cfm for each nozzle being used. Minimum air pressure at the nozzle should
be 90 psi; 100 psi; is preferred. The nozzle should be a venture type with a minimum inside diameter of
three-eighths of an inch. The hose line should have adequate strength for the pressures being used, and the
inside diameter of the hose should be no less then one and one-half inches to keep the sand in continuous
suspension while traveling through the hose. The proper time to do the blasting is a question of economics.
The concrete matrix will be easier to cut in the first 24 to 72 hours after casting. When blasting a surface,
the operator should hold the nozzle perpendicular to the surface and about 2 feet away. The exact distance
depends on the pressure being used, the hardness of the concrete matrix, and the cutting ability of the
abrasive. An experienced operator can quickly determine the nozzle position to produce the specified
surface finish.
Instructions for sand blasting concrete right as below:
1. Clear the area of anything that could be affected by stray sand. Cover any exposed surfaces surrounding
the concrete with plastic sheeting or tarp if you want to keep them clean.
2. Thoroughly ventilate the area if sandblasting concrete in limited workspace, such as a garage. Wear
safety goggles and a painter's suit equipped with a hood. Put on a respirator before sandblasting in order to
avoid inhaling dust particles from the sand and dirt.
3. Shut off the valves on the sandblaster and fill the tank with silica sand. Turn on the compressor and allow
it to pressurize between 40 to 100 pounds per square inch (PSI). Set the sandblaster on a low pressure setting
initially.
4. Point the nozzle of the sandblaster at the concrete, at least 8 to 16 inches away from your body. Squeeze
the trigger and sandblast the surface top to bottom for even coverage.
5. Gradually increase the pressure setting until the concrete is free of dirt or residue, or until you've reached
the desired results. Use short bursts of sand for particularly difficult areas, and sweeping motions for the
rest of the surface.

f. Building Stone Construction

Stone has been used as a building material for thousands of years. It has long been recognised as a material
of great durability and superior artistic quality, the foremost choice for buildings associated with status,
power and religion. The pyramids in Giza, burial chambers in the UK and temples in Malta were all built
from stone over 4000 years ago and are still standing. The use of stone in construction has declined over
the last hundred years, but it remains an aristocrat of building materials.

Types of Building Stone

Building stone, also called dimension stone, derives from one of three naturally occurring rock types:
Igneous - Hard and non-porous rock formed from the slow or quick cooling of molten magma. The best
example is granite.

Sedimentary - Soft and fairly porous rock formed from deposits of eroded pre-existing rock that settled in
layers mostly on sea beds, and became compacted. The best examples are sandstone and limestone.
Metamorphic - Hard and non-porous rock formed from pre-existing rock that has been altered by intense
heat or pressure. The best examples are marble and slate.

There are huge variations within each of these rock types, caused by specific mineralogy and geology
conditions, and while any stone can be used for building, they each have constraints that make them more
or less suitable for different purposes. Granite, sandstone and limestone can all be used for building walls,
but slate is only suitable for roofs and floors. Some types of granite can contain mineral salts that cause
spalling, where the outer face of stone falls off; slate can contain harmful minerals that break down on
exposure to the atmosphere causing stone damage; and sandstone can be too porous and fragile for load-
bearing structures. An understanding of how the rock material was formed will reveal how it can be used
in a building, what its limitations are, and how it will weather over time.
Dry Stone Stacking
The earliest form of stone construction is known as dry stone, or dry stacking. These are freestanding
structures such as field walls, bridges and buildings that use irregularly shaped stones carefully selected
and placed so that they fit closely together without slipping. Structures are typically wider at the base and
taper in as height increases. The weight of the stone pushes inwards to support the structure, and any settling
or disturbance makes the structure lock together and become even stronger. Dry stone structures are highly
durable and easily repaired. They allow water to drain through them, without causing damage to the stones.
They do not require any special tools, only the skill of the craftsman in choosing and placing the stones.

Stone Masonry
Traditional stone masonry evolved from dry stone stacking. Stone blocks are laid in rows of even (courses)
or uneven (uncoursed) height, and fixed in place with mortar, a cement or lime mixture pasted between the
stones. The building stones are normally extracted by surface quarrying, drilled and split using diamond
saws or iron wedges, and then shaped and polished according to their requirements. The basic hand tools
used to shape stones are chisels, mallet and a metal straight edge, but modern power tools such as angle
grinders and compressed air-chisels are often used to save time and money. Stones are either shaped
(dressed) into a block, known as ashlar masonry, or left rough and cut irregularly, known as rubble masonry.
Mortared stone structures are less durable than dry stone, because water can get trapped between the stones
and push them apart.
Traditional stone masonry is rarely used today, because stone is expensive to quarry, cut and transport, and
the building process is labour and skill-intensive. Instead, most modern stonework utilises a veneer of stone
(thin, flat pieces) glued against a wall of concrete blocks. This is known as veneered stone or stone cladding.

Slipform stone structures are a cross between veneered masonry and traditional masonry. Short forms
(around 2 feet tall) are placed on either side of the wall, to serve as a guide for the structure. Stones are
placed inside the forms with the flat face out, and concrete is then poured behind the rocks to hold it
together. Stone buildings can be constructed quickly and easily with this method.

Sustainable Stone
Stone is a highly durable, low maintenance building material with high thermal mass. It is versatile,
available in many shapes, sizes, colours and textures, and can be used for floors, walls, arches and roofs.
Stone blends well with the natural landscape, and can easily be recycled for other building purposes. But is
stone a sustainable building solution? There are currently over 400 building stone quarries in the UK, more
than enough to meet current demand, but with a growing influx of cheap, imported stone and synthetic
imitations, the industry is under threat. To meet sustainability standards, steps must be taken to ensure that
the stone is found on site, reclaimed from nearby demolished buildings or sourced from a local stone quarry.
Only then can stone be considered a true example of a sustainable building material.

Secrets to Building a Retaining Wall

As a landscaper and contractor who has built stone walls and stone creations my whole life (hundreds of
thousands of square feet of stonework), and handled over a million pounds of stone (so far), I have found
that even some of the educated advice on how to build stone creations is not always accurate. So here are
my secrets to building a stone retaining wall.
A retaining wall is a special kind of wall, which has to not only support itself but has to actively hold back
pressure from the material behind it. Here are some of the most important things to remember when you're
building a retaining wall.

The rocks you use, however you use them, have to resist the pressure being applied by the weight behind
the wall.
The weight of the wall will press down on the base material you are building on, which may make the
material shift, compromising the structural integrity of your work. Take the time to build a solid base if
needed.
Water collection behind walls is unacceptable. The increased weight of wet gravel or earth, and the high
risk of heaving due to frost, can threaten the wall. Thus drainage is important.
Any multi-level tiers should be planned out to ensure that the top tiers do not add to the pressure behind the
underlying tiers.
Finally, your wall should be a part of your landscape that marries well with your home, your tastes, and
your lifestyle.

1. Preparing the Base for the Wall

Remember that the place you first think of for your retaining wall may not be the only place it can go.
Moving a wall out a few feet from a bank may allow you to save material, if you can build a shorter wall
and keep the same slope or even a more gradual slope in the area behind it. You can compensate by using
more fill behind the wall.

Once you've got your lines marked out where you want your wall, you have to assess the type of material
that will lie beneath it.

Gravel
Gravel will drain, if there is nothing to obstruct the draining process. It should not need much done to it
other than a good compacting with a vibrating-plate compactor or jumping jack, depending on the size of
wall you're planning to build. If there are areas that will obstruct the drainage, take care of them by laying
a perforated drain tile from the low spot that water will pool in--even if the spot isn't visible on the surface-
-sloping downwards away from your future wall to an area where collected water can flow away freely.
You won't want to direct drainage from the wall towards your house; steps were taken when your house
was built to gather and evacuate water from the edges of your house, so don't compromise what should
work. With your gravel base compacted, and potential wet spots taken care of, you're ready to start laying
your base rocks.

Clay
Clay will not drain internally. It will need to be either sloped away from the face of your wall so it can drain
freely, or sloped to the right or left along the face of your wall so that it may drain past one end. Many
landscapers install drains under their walls when clay is found, but this creates an area for water to collect
under your wall, which is the last thing you want. But if there is no other way to drain the water that simple
sloping methods will collect, you can install a drain behind your wall. Put it far enough behind the wall so
that your wall will not be resting on the tile, and slope the base very slightly towards the back of your wall
to ensure water makes it to the drain and so that the tile you install will direct the water into some area that
will never get restricted. Always take steps to prevent sediment from infiltrating your drain (see below).
soil
Earth and other materials are not the most desirable bases on which to build large stone applications, but in
some cases they are acceptable:

if the area to be built on has been undisturbed for many years, has had time to naturally settle, and
has an existing slope in front of the area the wall will face;
if the retaining wall will be very short in height and will not significantly force down its base;
or if there is mature lawn under the area where the wall will be placed, which has been there for a
at least a few years and slopes away from the face of your wall. A well-structured lawn is great at
evacuating surface water.
However, in most other cases, consider taking steps to ensure that your wall will lie on a solid base. If your
wall will be higher than around 24", it will apply a lot of force to the base it lies on, which over the first
few years of the wall's life will cause unstable ground to absorb the weight more in some areas and less in
others. This will cause your wall to shift or sag and lose its structural integrity.

Because of this I suggest de-turfing the area, removing light soil or lawn, and adding "clean" drainage
material, that is, material that doesn't include pieces under a given size. Many other landscapers don't use
clean materials, meaning they include sand and silt that can cause clogging. I use "3/4 clean" which has
only 3/4" pieces.

The problem with material that is not clean is that it creates a false base over your problem area by floating
on top of existing materials and sealing them off. Clean material, applied in thin layers and compacted in
stages, will be absorbed into the existing materials which lie underneath, adding to their ability to perform
as an appropriate base. In most cases when a two inches layer of 3/4" clean material is added to and
compacted into an earthy base area, the two inches will easily be driven down into the existing material.
Additional 3/4" clean material should then be added and compacted to create at least an additional 2" rise
from existing levels in front of the future wall face, to ensure water can evacuate freely.

Do not repeat these practices that I have too often seen:

Placing a drainage tile under your wall without complete drain preparation; this allows water to
pool if even the smallest shift should occur in underlying terrain and move your wall.
Burying your base stones beneath the future levels of your finished landscape terrain; this will
definitely allow water to gather around and under your base stones and move your wall.
In all cases, you should ensure that your wall will be resting on an area that will be sloping in such a way
that water can naturally escape. The face of your wall will have at least 18" of stable ground in front of it.
Erosion will eat away at areas of the ground in front of your wall should there be a significant slope. If there
is a slope of up to 25 to 30 degrees, you should have 18" of area directly in front of your wall sloping no
more than about 10 degrees. On any slope of 30 degrees or more, you should have a couple of feet of strong
stable ground in front of your wall if you would like it to last any amount of time. You have to keep in mind
that the weight of your wall will be forcing down on its base, and not only straight down, but at an angle
up to 45 degrees away from your wall's face. You have to be sure that there is sound material in that area
in front of the wall to accept the load.
 2. Drawing a Plan

Ratio of Height to Base Thickness

Now you're almost ready to start building. You just have to figure out the height of your wall to determine
how wide your base area will need to be. For every foot you plan on going up, you want to build your wall
that thick in back. If your wall will be over five feet high, you can most likely get away with keeping a
consistent width of four to five feet, if you take care of the way your fill stones behind your wall are placed,
and ensure the wall face is sloping inwards at least 2" per foot of rise. However, if you are going to be
building an eight- to twelve-foot high wall you're going to want to increase the thickness at the the base to
at least six or seven feet keeping it consistent until at least half of your height is reached, and then you can
start tapering in towards your face up to a two- to three- foot wide wall at the top. In all cases, the width at
the top of your wall should be around two feet, or a little less if planting will be desired.

Drawing a cross section

When you draw a side view of your wall, the triangle you are going to create with your wall should be at
least the same size as, if not bigger than, the area behind it from the back of the base up. This amount of
weight in the structure of your wall, along with a good inward slope and a few laying tricks of the trade,
will allow your wall to be able to counteract the pressure from the ground behind it.

If you are planning a second tier, you should also draw out where your wall faces and backing will end up,
as well as where the upper wall's weight will be distributed in the area below it. For instance, if you have a
four-foot wall in front of and below a second wall, and the second wall is only three feet behind the finished
face of your first wall, the entire weight of the second wall will be pushing down and out on the center of
the first wall, most likely causing its center to bow outwards and eventually crumble. This is because the
upper wall is spreading its load over the area at an angle to 45 degrees downwards and outwards from its
edges.

4. Laying Stone

Choosing and placing stones

Your base stones should be your larger stones. They will be bearing the weight of all the other stones above
them and behind them. You should also use similarly large stones behind your base, as well as behind the
center sections of your wall, to create a stronger wall whose stones are tied into each other. In other words,
spread the weight of the stones over each other, so that each one helps hold the others in place.

You do have to make sure, however, that all the stones in your wall are laid level. If one stone is laid sloping
down towards another, it will be forced down onto it by all the weight placed above it, compromising the
entire structural integrity of your wall above that area. Also, a stone used in the face of the the wall, even if
it sits flat and level, should not be used if its top surface slopes down towards the front of the wall. The
reason is that the stones placed on top of these sloping stones will eventually slide down off the wall. I have
repaired many walls where the previous masons laid just one stone whose top surface sloped down; that
mistake brought down a complete section of a wall.

Something similar but not so drastic happens when a stone's top surface slopes too much inwards, towards
the back, and other stones are laid on top of it. The top stones will eventually force that wedge-shaped stone
outwards, ejecting it from the face of the wall. At best this will leave a hole, and at worst cause the whole
wall above the hole to collapse.
The trick to getting a wall to last is to tie the stone together, and make sure each stone goes back at least
10" deep into the wall. This is the minimum, and you should help out by adding strong tie stones behind a
short stone. Stones will essentially be placed like bricks, in a pattern that ties them together; they are in
contact with each other and each is forced downward by the stones laid above it. So if you happen to come
across a long narrow stone that has a beautiful face on the long side, don't use the beautiful face on the face
of the wall. Unless this stone is as deep as it is long, it's not worth it. Use it as a "tie rock" instead; display
the less-appealing small face on the face of the wall, and let the stone's length reach far back into the wall.
Used in this way, this stone will tie into more stones around it and be held in place by more stones above
it, and guarantee you a wall that will last many years.

Building to Last
In the Eastern Townships, where I lay wall, many landscapers and stone masons try to save money by laying
the longest faces of the stones as facing, to cover more "face footage." When I rebuild these failed attempts
at long-lasting walls, I have to bring in more stone to compensate. Knowlton, in Brome Lake, QC, is littered
with hundred-year old walls and some dated even further back. My grandfather, his father, and his father's
father spent their lives building stone walls, and the one thing that you notice about their walls, is that they
lasted and are still around.

When helping out my grandfather one day I observed a true test of his wall's strength, and it wasn't meant
to be a test at all. When he laid wall, he would pick up great big stones, about 80 to 140 lbs, sometimes
bigger, and drop them onto his laid sections of wall where he wanted them to go. If you can drop a 140- lb
stone onto any section of the wall that you're building, and not cause any structural damage or movement
in the wall beneath, you're on the right path.

Remember that the stone you are using has to hold back tons of weight from behind it and on top of it. So
a wall built out of five-pound rocks probably won't fare too well over the years if it is of any height at all.
Many of my customers in the Bremond area can tell you about a mason in their area who thought he could
pull that off.

5. Protecting Your Wall with Backing

Finally, protect your wall. If you've built a strong wall, there is one last thing that can bring it down: water.
Water will definitely end up behind your wall. As long as your backing remains clean of gravel and earth,
your wall should fare fine; but if water traveling down and through your wall brings sediment into the wall
through the backing, it will do two unwanted things.

1. It will cause instability in the ground above your wall as the ground material leaks out through vacant
spaces between your wall's stones. This is especially undesirable if you have additional tiers above, as all
the preparation you have done to ensure all areas around your wall are sound will be defeated. Your wall
may begin moving inwards into the unstable ground, which is better than outwards, but this may shuffle
stones in a way that causes the wall to lose strength.

2. In colder climates, the material that gets deposited into the center of your backing will retain moisture,
and as this material freezes it will expand, potentially completely destroying all of your hard work. I have
seen this way too many times when the local competition, once again trying to save money on material,
backs their walls with gravel or dirt. These rarely last a winter without bowing substantially, and quite often
simply fall over.
In bad cases, a simple rain can cause a wall to crumble when material behind the wall gets too heavy and
pushes out on a wall that has been laid too narrow and with no clean backing.

So that's the problem, here's the solution: geotextile. Geotextile may be composed of different materials in
different regions, but whatever it may be, you need a product with which to completely cover the back side
of your wall, a product that will allow water to flow through it freely but will not allow any solid materials
to pass through. This will keep your wall and its backing clean, free of material that might disturb the
masterpiece you've created. And thinking back to your choice of base preparation, you can now see the
importance of getting the water out and away from your wall. A substantial amount of water can collect in
the area of your new retaining wall, which now forms part of the drainage system of the area.

With this information you can build yourself a great new retaining wall that will last. And remember that a
little extra time or money spent the first time around may save you the inconvenience of a needed second
attempt.

IV. Conclusion

Masonry Building Materials is an extensive group of building materials and articles of stone like
composition. A distinction is made between natural masonry materials, which are obtained by mechanical
processing of rock (they may sometimes be produced without special processing), and artificial materials,
which are produced by technological processing of a mineral raw material. Because of their good
construction qualities (durability, strength, and frost resistance) and the wide distribution and unlimited
reserves of natural raw materials, masonry materials are widely used in modern construction. They are the
basic building materials for housing, public, and industrial construction, as well as various engineering
structures.