Project Planning for Weavers
Sandi Petty Judy Mooers Jan. 18, 2010
1
Where do We Start
What am I going to weave? What yarn should I use?
How much yarn do I need?
Sample or weave Evaluation and documentation
2
Sizes for Some Common Products
Table Linens
Bathroom
Napkins, casual: 12 x 12 Napkins, formal: 16 x 16 Placemats, casual: 12 x 18 Placemats, formal: 14 x 20
Dish towels: 15 x 20 Dishcloths: 10 x 10 Pot holders: 7 x 7 Tea towels: 16 x 28 (small) Tea towels: 24 x 34 (large)
Kitchen
Washcloth: 14 x 14 Hand towel: 16 x 28 Bath towel: 22 x 24 (sm) Bath towel: 24 x 46 (med) Bath sheet: 36 x 70
Mens formal scarf: 12 x 45 Womens formal scarf: 10 x 48 Womens shawl: 24 x 72 Baby Blanket: 36 or 45 square
3
Apparel
Choosing the Yarn
The Fiber
Softness Washability Durability
The Yarn
Strength (for warp) Grist Structure Size
4
Fiber Properties
Wool Silk Linen Cotton Rayon
Absorbency (water as fraction of weight)
Elasticity
Good
Good
Excellent (evaporates readily)
Very low
Excellent (evaporates slower than linen)
Low
Good
High (can Good, but stretch 30%) less than wool Weak (especially wet) Very strong (less when wet)
Moderate
Strength
Very strong (especially wet)
Moderate (more when wet, mercerized stronger) Moderate Good
Low
Warmth Ease of Cleaning
Good Avoid agitation
Very Good Requires care
Low Very good
Moderate Moderate
Weavers Companion, pg. 25-27.
Setts for Some Common Yarn Styles
Yarn Type 20/2 Cotton 10/2 Cotton 8/2 Cotton Yards per Pound 8400 4200 3000 Plain Weave 24 - 30 24 - 28 16 - 20 2/2 Twill 32 - 36 30 - 32 24 - 30
5/2 Cotton
3/2 Cotton 20/1 Linen 12/1 Linen 20/2 Linen 30/2 Silk
2100
1260 6000 3600 3000 7500
15 - 18
10 - 12 24 - 30 22 - 25 20 - 24 30 - 32
20
15 36 - 40 30 - 32 24 - 30 36 - 45
12/2 Silk
20/2 Wool 12/2 Wool 6/2 Wool
3000
5600 3000 1600
18 - 20
20 - 24 18 - 20 10 - 12
22 - 24
30 - 36 22 - 25 12 - 15
6
Determining Sett (Ends per Inch or epi)
Wind the warp around a ruler for one inch
Firm, even, no stretch Fill the space with no overlap Count for wraps/inch = W (warp yarn diameter)
Weft yarn diameter = F
Calculate same as above
Eileen Hallman
7
Determining Sett (Ends per Inch or epi)
continued
Number of threads in one repeat of the weave structure = T (plain weave (1,2)= 2; twill weave (1,2,3,4)= 4
Number of intersections in one repeat of the weave structure = I (plain weave = 2; twill weave = 2)
Sett = (T x W x F) /( ( T x F) + (I x W))
Eileen Hallman
8
Formula for Sett
S = (T x W)/ (T + I)
S = sett T= number of ends in one repeat of the threading W = yarn diameter or wraps/inch I = number of interactions that the weft has with the yarn in one repeat
Manual of Swedish Weaving
Warp Ends Calculation
All Measurements in Inches
Final Planned Width + Take-up (e.g., 10%) + Shrinkage (e.g. 10%) = Width on the loom x ends per inch (epi) = Warp ends +/- Adjustment for pattern
Marcy Petrini
10
Warp Length Calculation
All Numbers in Inches
Final Length, include hem + Shrinkage (10%) = Length to weave + Fringe + Take-up (10%) = Length per article x number of articles = Warp length for weaving + Loom waste (18 to 27) = Total warp length (inches) Total warp length (yards) (divide by 36) Marcy Petrini
11
Amount of Yarn Needed
Yarn for warp
Total ends to wind x Length of each warp thread (yds) = Total warp needed (yards) = Total warp needed (pounds) (Divide by yards/pound)
Yarn for weft
Width on the loom (inches) x Beat (picks per inch) x Warp length for weaving = Total weft needed (inches) = Total weft needed in yards = Total weft needed in pounds Marci Petrini
12
Determining Yardage
Count system for yardage Number of yards in a pound of a standard yarn
Cotton and spun silk: Linen, hemp, jute, ramie: Worsted wool: Woolen wool: 840 300 560 256
Yardage of a single= count x the standard Yardage of a plied yarn= yardage of single/# of plies
Weavers Companion, pg. 30
13
Sources for Yards per pound
Yarn supplier http://www.interweave.com/weave/handwov en_magazine/files/yarn_chart.pdf Handwoven Magazine yarn and suppliers page in any issue
14
Reed Size Table
Reed # 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 14 15 16 18 20 1,0 3 3.5 4 4.5 5 5.5 6 7 7.5 8 9 10 1 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 14 15 16 18 20 1,2 9 10.5 12 13.5 15 16.5 18 21 22.5 24 27 30 2 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 28 30 32 36 40 2,3 15 17.5 20 22.5 25 27.5 30 35 37.5 40 45 50 3 18 21 24 27 30 33 36 42 45 48 54 60 4 24 28 32 36 40 44 48 56 60 64 72 80
15
Mary Black, pg. 659
Sampling
Purpose: check sett, ppi, structure, shrinkage, flaws in the yarn, effects of color and texture, finishing techniques, and fabric hand. Make each sample at least 6-10 wide and long. Sample warp should be long enough to re-sley and re-tie (e.g., 2 yards) Record length and width
On the loom Off the loom Finished
16
Project Notes
Name of project _________________________ Date completed _________________________ Approx. time reqd _______________________ Yarns: Warp ___________Weft____________ Weave Structure ________________________ Source ________________________________ Warp length ___________________________ Warp width ____________________________ Sett __________________________________ PPI ___________________________________ Dimensions on loom _____________________ Dimensions off loom _____________________ Dimensions after finishing _________________
Insert draft
Weavers Companion, pg. 41
17
References
The Weavers Companion, Interweave Press: Loveland, CO, 2001, pp. 2542. Right from the Start: Planning a Project, Marcy Petrini, http://www.weavespindye.org/pages/rfts-doc.html. Right from the Start: Planning a Project, Shuttle, Spindle & Dyepot, 122(Spring 2000),45-48 The Whole Truth about Setts, Eileen Hallman, Weavers, 40(1998), 18. Learning to Weave, Deborah Chandler, Interweave Press: Loveland, CO 1995, pp. 103-110. The Big Book of Weaving, Laila Lundell, Trafalgar Square: North Pomfret, VT, 2005, pp. 11, 88-93. The Key to Weaving (2nd revised edition), Mary Black,Macmillan Publishing Co.: New York, NY, 1980, pp. 14-16, 657- 662.
18
