FACS Basics:

Building Skills to Last a Lifetime

Unit 7
Sewing Basics
Objectives
1. Identify equipment and notions used in sewing. (Assignment Sheet 1)
2. Differentiate between characteristics of natural and synthetic fabrics.
3. Label principal parts of a sewing machine and serger. (Assignment Sheet
2)
4. Demonstrate how to prepare a machine for sewing. (Job Sheet 1)
5. Stitch straight, wavy, and curved lines. (Job Sheet 2)
6. Stitch square corners. (Job Sheet 3)
7. Stitch sharp angle turns. (Job Sheet 4)
8. List in order the steps in basic sewing.
9. Discuss indicators in the quality of clothing construction.
Objectives
10. Examine methods that help in ironing and pressing clothing.
11. Prepare fabric for cutting. (Job Sheet 5)
12. Manipulate fabric according to project instructions. (Job Sheet 6)
13. Demonstrate a clean-finish facing edge. (Job Sheet 7)
14. Demonstrate a casing and elastic procedure. (Job Sheet 8)
15. Assemble a basic sewing project. (Job Sheet 9)
16. Evaluate a basic sewing project. (Assignment Sheet 3)
17. Formulate the cost of constructing a recycled textile product.
(Assignment Sheet 4)
Key Terms
• alterations: changing a garment such as shortening the length of
the slacks
• bias: the 45 angle to the selvage
• casing: fabric tube that holds elastic or a drawstring
• crosswise grain: threads in a fabric go selvage to selvage on the
fabric; they are perpendicular to the to the selvage
• fabric: cloth produced from yarns that have been woven, knitted, or
pressed together, then treated with dyes, coatings, or chemical
finishes
• feeddog: “teeth” under the needle plate that help move the fabric
beneath the presser foot
Key Terms
• fibers: the long, thin, hair-like strands that are made into yarn
• guide sheet: directions that include how to lay out, cut, and sew the
pattern
• hand wheel: sewing machine part that raises the needle on the machine
• interfacing:
a textile used on the unseen or “wrong” side of fabrics to
make an area of a garment more rigid
• ironing: using heat and a back and forth movement to remove wrinkles
• layout: a plan on the guide sheet for placing the fabric
• lengthwise grain: the threads in the fabric that are parallel to the selvage
• natural fabrics: fibers from natural sources, mainly plants and animals
Key Terms
• off-grain: threads of a woven fabric running at a slant
• on-grain:threads of a fabric that are carefully woven and run a 90-
degree angle
• pilling:
formation of little balls of fiber on the surface of a fabric,
caused by abrasion in wear
• pivot:while stitching a seam the needle is left in the fabric, the
presser foot is lifted then the fabric is turned
• pressing: using heat and an up and down motion to set seams,
pleats, etc.
• presscloth: fabric used to protect the garment from the heat and
anything that might be on the iron
Key Terms
• presser foot: a sewing machine part that keeps the fabric in
position over the needle and on top of the feed dog
• ravel: threads become loose or frayed
• resilient: able to spring back to the original shape
• scorch: to burn the fabric creating a discoloration on it
• selvage: the finished edge of the fabric that keeps the fabric from
raveling
• shank: the item on the button that provides space between the
button and the fabric; can be on the packaged button or made
from thread
Key Terms
• syntheticfabrics: fibers made in factories from chemicals and
other raw materials; referred to as man-made fabrics
• textile:generally, a cloth product; specifically, any fiber, yarn, or
fabric, whether woven, knitted, felted, or nonwoven
• thread take-up lever: controls the flow of the upper thread
• yarn:spun thread that is woven or knit into fabric or used for
sewing
Identify Equipment and Notions Used
in Sewing
Objective 1

Complete Assignment Sheet 1

Naturals vs. Synthetics
Objective 2

Natural Fabrics
Fabric Care Wrinkle- Shrinkage Water Durability & Warmth, Other
resistant Absorption Strength Insulation
Plant-based Plant fibers
don’t provide
as much
insulation as
animal fibers
Cotton Easy to wash Not unless High, shrinks Very high Strong and Average Non-
treated most in the durable, allergenic
first wash lacks
resilience
Linen Dry clean or Not unless High High Strong and Above Anti-bacterial
machine treated durable, 2-3 average
wash times
stronger than
cotton
Ramie Machine Wrinkles High High Strong, even Above
wash easily more so average
when wet
(strongest of
the plant
fibers)
Naturals vs. Synthetics
Objective 2

Natural Fabrics
Fabric Care Wrinkle- Shrinkage Water Durability & Warmth, Other
resistant Absorption Strength Insulation
Animal-based

Silk Dry clean Medium High High Durable, Above Expensive,

resilient, average tends to
stretches fade, most
when wet hypoallergeni
c of all
fabrics,
luxury feel
Wool Dry clean Yes High Highest Less durable High Antimicrobial
and less properties
strength
Naturals vs. Synthetics
Objective 2

Synthetic Fabrics
Fabric Care Wrinkle- Shrinkage Water Durability & Other
resistant Absorption Strength
Acrylic Washable, quick Yes Shrink resistant Low Strong Pills, low price,
dry blends well with
wool
Microfiber Washable Yes Shrink resistant High Exceptional No pilling,
strength, very easily scorched
durable with iron, good
insulator,
lightweight
Nylon Washable Yes Shrink resistant Low Strongest of the Static cling,
manmade pills
fabrics, resilient
Polyester Washable Yes Shrink resistant Low Strong, very Static buildup,
durable stain removal
can be a
problem
Spandex/Lycra Washable Yes Shrink resistant Low Strong, twice as Resists body
durable as oils, damaged
rubber, very by bleach
resilient
 Knowledge Check
Objective 2

1. What is the difference between natural and synthetic fabrics?

2. Name 3 examples of natural and 3 examples of synthetic fabrics.
3. Which fabrics are more wrinkle-resistant; natural or synthetic?
Label Principal Parts of a Sewing
Machine and Serger
Objective 3

Complete Assignment Sheet 2

Demonstrate How to Prepare a
Machine for Sewing
Objective 4

Complete Job Sheet 1

Stitch Straight, Wavy, and Curved
Lines
Objective 5

Complete Job Sheet 2

Stitch Square Corners
Objective 6

Complete Job Sheet 3

Stitch Sharp Angle Turns
Objective 7

Complete Job Sheet 4

Steps for Sewing
Objective 8

1. Prepare the pattern for layout.

a. Determine the correct layout and circle
the layout
b. Locate each pattern piece
c. Cut around the pattern pieces, leaving
extra tissue for possible alterations
d. Make needed alterations
Steps for Sewing
Objective 8

1. Prepare the fabric for cutting

a. Preshrink the fabric
b. Straighten fabric as needed
c. Press wrinkled fabric
d. Keep fabric on the cutting table to avoid it from hanging off the table
and causing inaccurate cutting
e. Lay fabric in the direction as shown on the guide sheet

2. Pin the pattern to the fabric

a. Pin grain lines first, measuring grainline from edge of fabric to
indicate pattern is on grain
b. Pin the rest of the pattern, being sure to use enough pins to keep the
pattern flat on the fabric on curves and corners
Steps for Sewing
Objective 8

1. Cut the pattern pieces, after receiving the instructor’s approval

a. Cut notches outward, never inward (prevents loss of seam allowance)
b. Two notches are cut up and straight across the tips of both notches,
then down

2. Transfer pattern markings

a. Mark dots, notches, hem, buttonholes, hemline, pleats, etc

3. Follow project sewing instructions

a. Read the complete step before sewing
b. Look at the drawings that go with the written instruction
c. Check each step after completing it
 Knowledge Check
Objective 8

1. List the 6 steps in basic sewing.

Recognizing Quality Clothing
Objective 9

• Check buttons, fasteners, and

buttonholes
o Buttons and fasteners should be
firmly attached
o Buttons should have a shank or
thread shank, should fit through the
buttonhole, and should and lie flat
o Buttonholes should be sewn on-
grain and should lie flat
o All buttonholes should be spaced
evenly on the garment
Recognizing Quality Clothing
Objective 9

• Examine the garment

o Check the quality of the fabric
o Stripes, plaids, checks or designs should match at the seams
o Fiber content and construction must be suited for the intended use
o Hem should lie flat and even, and should be parallel to the floor unless
the design is otherwise
o Outside of the stitching on the hems should be inconspicuous
o Lining should be smooth, not wrinkled
o Lining should not hang past the outer garment
Recognizing Quality Clothing
Objective 9

• Carefully examine seams and stitching

o Check to ensure that seam allowances are sufficient to allow for
alteration, if needed
o Seam lines, edges, and corners should be smooth and free of puckers
o Topstitching should be neat and even
o Stitching should be straight
o Corners and curves should maintain their shape
o Edges of pockets should be reinforced
o Sleeves on men’s shirts should be double-stitched
Recognizing Quality Clothing
Objective 9

• Examine the zipper

o Should open and close easily
o Check that the stitching around the zipper is even and not puckered
o Zipper should be covered completely
o Fabric covering the zipper should not bulge or pucker
 Knowledge Check
Objective 9

1. List 5 items you will see in quality construction.

Tips for Ironing and Pressing
Objective 10

• Ironingis done on finished clothing

and uses a back and forth technique
• Pressing uses an up and down motion
and is used most on unfinished
garments when pressing the seams
open or pressing puckers out of
excess fabric
• Pressing is also used on a finished
garment that has creases such as
pleats or hems
• Pressing is less likely to stretch the
fabric than ironing
Tips for Ironing and Pressing
Objective 10

• Press the clothing on the wrong side of the garment

• Avoid ironing on top of buttons
• Take clothes out of the dryer as soon as it shuts off to help
eliminate wrinkling, and hang up or fold immediately
• Read the clothing label or fabric content information to determine
the iron temperature setting
• Ifthe fabric requires a high-heat iron, use a damp press cloth or
spray the item lightly with spray starch or water
• Give the iron time to heat up
Tips for Ironing and Pressing
Objective 10

• Make sure your iron has plenty of water and is producing steam at
steam settings
• When ironing several items, start with the pieces that require the
lowest heat iron setting, then turn the heat up as needed
• When ironing shirts, iron the sleeves, collar, and front placket first
• Let the ironed garment set until it is completely dry before wearing
• Use the tip of the iron to work in small areas such as the sleeves,
collar, or placket
 Knowledge Check
Objective 10

1. Why would you press or iron on the wrong side of the fabric?
2. If you are ironing several items, which ones should you iron first?
Prepare Fabric for Cutting
Objective 11

Complete Job Sheet 5

Manipulate Fabric According to
Project Instructions
Objective 12

Complete Job Sheet 6

Demonstrate a Clean-finish Facing
Edge
Objective 13

Complete Job Sheet 7

Demonstrate a Casing and Elastic
Procedure
Objective 14

Complete Job Sheet 8

Assemble a Basic Sewing Project
Objective 15

Complete Job Sheet 9

Evaluate a Basic Sewing Project
Objective 16

Complete Assignment Sheet 3

Formulate the Cost of Constructing a
Recycled Textile Product
Objective 17

Complete Assignment Sheet 4

Unit Review
1. Which fabric is the strongest synthetic fabric?
2. Which natural fabric has the most capacity for warmth and
insulation?
3. List the six steps in basic sewing.
4. List four items you will see in quality construction.
5. How can you keep from breaking a button when ironing?
6. What can be used to protect the clothing that is being ironed or
pressed?
7. When ironing, should you press on the front or back of the fabric?
Unit Review
alterations ironing presser foot
bias layout ravel
casing lengthwise grain resilient
crosswise grain natural fabrics scorch
fabric off-grain selvage
feed dog on-grain shank
fibers pilling synthetic fabrics
guide sheet pivot textile
hand wheel pressing thread take-up
interfacing press cloth lever
End of Unit 7