Lesson 1

CHEMICALS FOUND
IN COSMETICS
Objectives:
After going through this module, you are expected to:
 trace the development and improvement of cosmetics
through time;
 explain the importance of viscosity in the cosmetic
formulation;
 classify the form of a cosmetic product;
 identify and describe the different cosmetic
ingredients, compositions, and their functions;
 realize the importance of using cosmetics in promoting
proper and healthy hygiene; and
 design a cosmetic product with its product form and
possible chemical ingredients and composition.
Lesson 1: History of
Cosmetics and Product Forms

If you have a very tight budget

Answer the
following for your daily necessities, would
questions: you still include cosmetic
products on your grocery list?
If yes, what cosmetic
product would still
be included on your
list?
Lesson 1: History
of Cosmetics and
Product Forms

Do you think cosmetics

Answer the are essential? Do you
following consider them as
questions: necessities? Why or
why not?
• Cosmetics can be defined as a
substance or preparation
intended for placement in contact
with any external part of the
human body (this includes the
mouth and teeth). It is also used
to cleanse, protect, and change
the body’s appearance or alter its
odors. Cosmetics are limited on
make-up and include creams,
perfumes, talcum powder,
shampoo deodorants, and other
toiletries.
 Brief History of Cosmetics
Ancient Egyptians used scented oils and
ointments to clean and soften their skin,
mask body odor, and protect their skin
9)
against the hot Egyptian sun and dry winds.
They used myrrh, thyme, marjoram,
chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint,
rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame
oil, and almond oil as raw ingredients of
most perfumes Egyptians used in religious
rituals.
 Brief History of Cosmetics
Egyptian women applied galena
mesdemet (made of copper and
lead ore) and malachite (bright
9)

green paste of copper minerals) to

their faces for color and definition.
• The Chinese
stained their
fingernails with gum
arabic, gelatin,
beeswax, and egg.
The colors were used to
represent social class:
Chou dynasty royals
wore gold and silver;
the Middle
• classes wore black or
red; Lower classes
were forbidden to
wear bright colors on
their nails.
• Henna was used in
India both as a hair
dye and Mehndi, an
art form in which
intricate designs were
painted on the hands
and feet using a paste
made from the henna
plant, especially
before a Hindu
wedding. Henna is still
also used in some
North African cultures
In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair came into fashion.
Society women wore egg whites over their faces to create
the appearance of a paler complexion. Some people
believed, however, that cosmetics blocked proper
circulation and therefore posed a health threat.

Italy and France emerged as the main cosmetics manufacturing

centers in Europe, and only the aristocracy had access. European
women often attempted to lighten their skin using a variety of
products, including white lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England
was one well-known user of white lead paint, with which she created
a look known as “the Mask of Youth.”
In Edwardian Society, pressure increased on middle-
aged women to appear youthful while acting as
hostesses. As a result, the use of cosmetics
increased but was not yet wholly popularized.
Beauty salons rose in popularity, though patronage
of such salons was not widely accepted. Moreover,
many women did not wish to publicly admit they
could achieve their youthful appearances, so they
often entered salons through the back door.
Cosmetic Product Forms
• Product forms are an essential part of
quality control in the cosmetic industry.
Some cosmetics must have certain forms
to prove useful for their designed
purpose. When we talk about cosmetic
product forms, viscosity is very vital.
• Viscosity refers to the resistance to flow.
It also refers to how the product behaves
and flows when put in a particular
container.
The viscosity
and product To make it easy to apply - A body
form is vital mist must have low viscosity for it to
because of the flow freely and be distributed in an
following even manner, while lipsticks and lip
reasons: balms must be highly viscous to stick
on one’s lips and protect the skin.
The viscosity
and product To make it easy to dispense and use
form is vital the right amount – Shampoo must be
because of the viscous enough to pour it from a
following bottle in a controlled amount and
reasons: need to stay in the hand while
applying it on the head.
The viscosity To suit customers’
and product perception – customers
form is vital
because of the often judge the
following conditioning benefits of
reasons:
a conditioner by how
thick and creamy it is.
 a. Liquid
• It can flow freely from runny like water to runny
like honey.
• Water-based liquid can only contain a small
Here are the amount of oils appropriately solubilized.
different cosmetic • Examples: perfume, body mist, skin toner
product forms b. Gel
depending on their
viscosity: • It is thicker than liquid and has limited flow
properties.
• It is formed through the use of gum or
thickening agents.
• Examples: water-based (hair-styling gel); oil-
based ( viscous hair oils)
 c. Foaming Gel
• It is used to describe foaming
Here are the
different cosmetic products with honey-like viscosity.
product forms • It has limited flow capacity and
depending on their
viscosity: prevents the product from
running out of the hand since it
foams up.
• Examples: shampoo, liquid body
wash, and foaming facial cleanser
d. Serum
• It varies from low viscosity gel to
almost lotion-like.
• It is used to deliver critical ingredients
in a light product form.
• It is made up of smaller molecules
that can penetrate deeply into the
skin and deliver a high concentration
of active ingredients.
• Examples: Vitamin C serum and
facial serum
e. Lotion
• It contains low viscosity emulsions.
• Emulsion – is a mixture of two naturally not
soluble substances (like oil and water) by use of
a material to hold them together (emulsifier)
• It can readily be pumped or squeezed from
packaging with a little effort or may run semi
freely.
• The viscosity of lotions can be altered by using
different emulsifying agents, consistency factors
(beeswax or other waxes), or gums or thickening
agents.
• Examples: hand and body lotion, medicated
lotion
 f. Cream

• It contains medium to high viscosity

emulsions.
Here are the • It is suitable to be put in jars or small
different cosmetic bottles with a wide mouth or bigger pump
product forms nozzles.
depending on their • Examples: Anti-aging creams, skincare
viscosity: creams
• Creams can be in the form of:
• Oil in water emulsions (o/w)
• droplets of oil in water continuous phase
• tends to have a light-after feel on the skin
being water- based
 f. Cream

Here are the

different cosmetic • Water in oil emulsions (w/o)
product forms • droplets of water in a
depending on their
viscosity: continuous oil phase
• has a greasier-after feel since it
is oil-based
• It has higher viscosity because
of its high oil content.
 g. Powder
• It is utilized readily in the color cosmetics
industry like eye shadow, blushes,
Here are the pressed, loose powder, and mineral make-
different cosmetic
product forms
up.
depending on their • Examples: baby powder, talc, blusher,
viscosity: most of the make-up products

h. Balm
• It is mostly or entirely oil-based with
semi-solid consistency.
• Examples: Hair and lip balm, lipstick
 i. Mud
• It is often presented as a semi-solid
Here are the product with the use of different clay
different cosmetic and with the presence of oils
product forms • Examples: Mud clay mask
depending on their
viscosity:
j. Scrub
• It contains various sized particles to
exfoliate skin mechanically.
• Examples: Salt or sugar exfoliating
body scrub
 Lesson 2
COSMETIC
INGREDIENTS AND
THEIR FUNCTIONS
 LESSON 2
Cosmetic
Ingredients and
their Functions
• Any cosmetic products available in the market are
required by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to
have its INCI labels. INCI stands for “International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients,” a system of
names for ingredients, botanicals, and chemicals used to
manufacture cosmetic products. Cosmetic labels also
include the product’s shelf life, testing procedure,
manufacturer, distributor, and other properties.
How do chemists know what to put into a formula to create a cosmetic product?
If we would try to formulate cosmetic products, we need to consider the different
ingredients and their respective functions. There are four main categories of
ingredients among cosmetics products:

a. Functional Ingredients – these are the main

ingredients chosen to perform the primary function of the
cosmetic product.
b. Structural Ingredients – provide the structure and
form of the product
c. Supportive ingredients – improve the stability and
shelf life of the product
d. Added Extra – added in a small amount to add
consumer acceptance and to make the product more
marketable
 To complete a Abrasives
cosmetic • These are used to remove skin cells
formulation, you or plaque from teeth through
should be friction.
familiar with the • Examples:
different • Body exfoliants/scrubs – oat kernel
cosmetic
ingredients used meal, salt, sugar, walnut shell
to make a powder, hydrogenated jojoba wax
product. • Toothpaste abrasives – silica,
sodium bicarbonate
 To complete a Antioxidants
cosmetic • They reduce oxidation and rancidity from
formulation, you occurring over time.
should be • They act as supportive ingredients to
familiar with the lengthen the shelf life of the product.
different • They are marketed as skin nurturers.
cosmetic • Examples:
ingredients used • Vitamins – tocopherol (Vitamin E)
to make a • Plant extracts – green tea leaf extract,
product. chamomile flower extract, rosemary leaf
extract, and grape seed extract
 Chelating Agents
- They are also known as sequestrants.
To complete a cosmetic - They help improve the product’s stability
formulation, you should by binding metal ions that may be present
be familiar with the in other raw materials.
different cosmetic
ingredients used to - They are essential in foaming products as
make a product. they bind ions in hard water and prevent
deterioration of the foam.
• Examples: Citric acid, Disodium
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA)
and Tetrasodium
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA)
 Colorants
To complete a cosmetic - These are used to give color
formulation, you should
be familiar with the to a product or the skin.
different cosmetic
ingredients used to - Most of the colorants are
make a product.
synthetically made.
• Examples: Acid Green, Basic
Yellow, Iron oxide red, and
Chromium oxide green
 Cosmetic Astringents
To complete a cosmetic - They induce a tightening and
formulation, you should
be familiar with the toning effect on the skin.
different cosmetic
ingredients used to - They are commonly found in
make a product.
skin toner, astringents, and
aftershave lotion
• Examples: Alcohols and
Witch hazel extract
 Emulsion Stabilizer

To complete a cosmetic
- It stabilizes the emulsion once
formulation, you should formed and prevents the separation
be familiar with the
different cosmetic
of oil and water in the emulsion.
ingredients used to - It also serves as a thickening
make a product.
agent.
• Examples: Xanthan gum,
Cellulose gum,
Hydroxyethylcellulose,
Acrylates, alkyl acrylate cross
polymer, and carbomer
 Exfoliants
- They remove dead skin cell layers
To complete a cosmetic by dissolving intracellular
formulation, you should
be familiar with the
“cement” holding surface skin
different cosmetic cells together.
ingredients used to
make a product. - They are usually found in skin
whitening or skin peel products
in the presence of low pH.
• Examples: Glycolic acid, Lactic
acid, and Salicylic acid
 Cosmetic Astringents
To complete a cosmetic - They induce a tightening and
formulation, you should
be familiar with the
toning effect on the skin.
different cosmetic
ingredients used to
- They are commonly found in
make a product. skin toner, astringents, and
aftershave lotion
• Examples: Alcohols and
Witch hazel extract
 Emulsion Stabilizer
To complete a cosmetic - It stabilizes the emulsion once
formulation, you should formed and prevents the separation
be familiar with the
different cosmetic of oil and water in the emulsion.
ingredients used to - It also serves as a thickening agent.
make a product.
• Examples: Xanthan gum, Cellulose
gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose,
Acrylates, alkyl acrylate cross
polymer, and carbomer
 Fragrance
To complete a cosmetic
formulation, you should
be familiar with the - This is used to enhance
different cosmetic
ingredients used to the products’ smell or to
make a product.
mask undesirable
odors/scents.
• Examples: Essential oils
 Hair Conditioning Agents
- These are used to condition and improve
the hair’s appearance, gloss, and shine while
To complete a cosmetic facilitating styling and reducing the static of
formulation, you should
be familiar with the the hair.
different cosmetic - They improve the texture of the hair that
ingredients used to has been dried through styling, chemical
make a product. exposure, or environmental drying.
• Examples: Guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
Behentrimonium methosulfate,
Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium chloride,
Polyquaternium-7, and Quaternium-22
 Hair Fixatives
To complete a cosmetic
formulation, you should
- They are used to hold the
be familiar with the
different cosmetic
hair in styles in place.
ingredients used to
make a product. • Examples:
oAcrylic acid/VP cross
polymer and VP/VA
copolymer
 Opacifying Agents
- They are added to shampoos and
To complete a cosmetic shower gels to make them appear
formulation, you should pearlescent.
be familiar with the
different cosmetic - They provide consumers with the
ingredients used to impression that the product is rich
make a product.
and creamy.
• Examples: Glycol Stearate,
Propylene glycol stearate, and
Stearamide Monoethanolamine
(MEA) stearate
 pH Adjusters
- They adjust the pH of the product at
To complete a cosmetic
formulation, you should
the desired range.
be familiar with the - They can be considered as Acids (lower
different cosmetic the pH) and bases (raise the pH).
ingredients used to
make a product. • Examples:
o Acids – citric acid, lactic acid
o Bases –potassium hydroxide, sodium
hydroxide, and
triethanolamine
 Skin Conditioning Agents

To complete a cosmetic
formulation, you should
be familiar with the A. Emollients- impart softness to the
different cosmetic skin by remaining on the upper layer of
ingredients used to
make a product. the skin and reduce flaking

• Examples: Cocoglycerides,
caprylic/capric triglycerides, Isopropyl
myristate, Dimethicone, and mineral
oil
 Skin Conditioning Agents
B. Humectants – retard moisture loss by
holding water within the surface layers of the
To complete a cosmetic skin and drawing in moisture from the air
formulation, you should
be familiar with the • Examples: Glycerin, Propylene glycol, and
different cosmetic Sodium hyaluronate
ingredients used to
make a product.
C. Occlusive – blocks the evaporation of water
from the surface of the skin, keeping it moist
and increasing its water content
• Examples: Shea butter, Jojoba
seed oil, Caprylic/capric
triglycerides, and Propylene glycol dioleate
 Solvents
To complete a cosmetic
formulation, you should
- These are liquids that are used
be familiar with the to dissolve constituents or act
different cosmetic
ingredients used to as carriers in cosmetic
make a product. products.
• Examples: Water,
Alcohol, Butylene glycol,
Glycerine, and Propylene
glycol
 Sunscreen Agents
To complete a cosmetic
- They are used to protect the
formulation, you should skin from UV radiation.
be familiar with the
different cosmetic • Examples: Benzophenone-3,
ingredients used to
make a product. Butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane,
• Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,
titanium dioxide, and zinc
oxide
 Surfactants – They are surface-
active agents and have the ability
To complete a cosmetic
to modify the surface of the
formulation, you should substance.
be familiar with the
different cosmetic
ingredients used to a. Cleansing Agents - produce foam and
make a product. clean the surface of the skin or hair
• Examples: Cocoyl glucoside, Decyl
glucoside, Cocamidopropyl betaine,
Sodium lauryl sulfate, Sodium methyl
cocoyl taurate, and Sodium C14-16 olefin
sulfonate
 Surfactants – They are surface-active
agents and have the ability to modify
the surface of the substance.
To complete a cosmetic
formulation, you should
be familiar with the
different cosmetic b. Emulsifying Agents – used to mix oils and water
ingredients used to in an emulsion Examples: Cetearyl alcohol,
make a product. stearic acid, Ceteareth-20, and PEG- 100 stearate
c. Solubilizers – used to dissolve substances that
are usually insoluble in a continuous medium
• Examples: Laureth-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated
castor oil, and Polysorbate 80
 Viscosity Increasing Agents
- Aqueous
To complete a cosmetic
formulation, you should
be familiar with the - These thicken the water-soluble
different cosmetic components of the product.
ingredients used to
make a product. • Examples: Agar, Xanthan gum,
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose,
Acrylates, alkyl acrylate cross
polymer, and carbomer
 Viscosity Increasing
To complete a cosmetic Agents – Non-Aqueous
formulation, you should
be familiar with the
different cosmetic
- These thicken the oil-soluble
ingredients used to components of the product.
make a product.
• Examples: Beeswax, Candelilla
wax, Stearalkonium bentonite,
Microcrystalline wax, and
Silica dimethyl silylate.