Milady Standard Cosmetology

Haircoloring

© 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning

 Why People Color Their Hair

• Cover up or blend • Correct unwanted

gray (unpigmented) tones in hair caused
hair. by environmental
• Enhance an existing exposure such as sun
haircolor. or chlorine.
• Create a fashion • Accentuate a haircut.
statement or
statement of self-
expression.
 Hair Facts
Hair Structure

• Three major
components:
– Cuticle: Outermost
layer of hair.
– Cortex: Middle layer,
gives hair the majority
of its strength and
elasticity.
– Medulla: Innermost
layer of hair.
 Hair Facts
Texture

• Fine hair takes color

faster and can look
darker.
• Medium-textured hair
has an average
reaction to haircolor.
• Coarse-textured hair
can take longer to
process.
 Hair Facts
Density/Porosity

• Density must be • Low porosity (resistant):

taken into account Cuticle is tight.
when applying
haircolor to ensure • Average porosity:
proper coverage. Cuticle is slightly raised.

• High porosity: Cuticle is

lifted.
 Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone

• Eumelanin: Melanin • Pheomelanin: Melanin

that lends black and that gives blond and
brown colors to hair. red colors to hair.
• Mixed melanin: • Contributing pigment:
Combination of natural Also undertone; varying
hair color that contains degrees of warmth
both pheomelanin and exposed during a
eumelanin. permanent color or
lightening process.
 Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone
The Level System

• Level: Unit of
measurement used to
identify lightness or
darkness of a color.
• Level system: Used
by colorists to
determine lightness or
darkness of a hair
color.
 Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone
Identifying Natural Level

• First step in
performing a haircolor
service.
• Most valuable tool is
the color wheel.
• Haircolor swatch
books also provide a
visual representation.
 Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone
Gray Hair

• Loss of pigment
increases as a person
ages, but few people
become completely
gray.
• Gray hair requires
special attention in
formulating haircolor.
 Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone
Color Theory

• Base color:
Predominant tone of a
color.
• Law of color: System
for understanding
color relationships.
– Primary colors
– Secondary colors
– Tertiary colors
– Complementary colors
 Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone
Tone or Hue of Color

• Tone: Also hue; • Tones can be

balance of color. described as warm,
• The tone or hue cool, or neutral.
answers the question • Intensity: Refers to
of which color to use strength of a color.
based on the client’s
desired results.
 Types of Haircolor

• Haircoloring products
generally fall into two
categories:
nonoxidative and
oxidative.
• Classifications of
oxidative haircolor are
demipermanent and
permanent.
 Types of Haircolor
Temporary Haircolor
• Temporary haircolor:
Nonpermanent color
whose large pigment
molecules prevent
penetration of the
cuticle layer, allowing
only a coating action
that may be removed
by shampooing.
 Types of Haircolor
Semipermanent Haircolor
• Semipermanent
haircolor: No-lift
deposit-only
nonoxidation haircolor.
• Demipermanent
haircolor: Also no-lift
deposit-only color;
formulated to deposit
but not lighten color.
 Types of Haircolor
Permanent Haircolor

• Permanent haircolors:
Lighten and deposit
color at the same time
in a single process.
• Soap cap: Equal parts
prepared permanent
color mixture and
shampoo used during
last five minutes of a
haircolor service.
 Types of Haircolor
Natural and Metallic Haircolors

• Natural haircolors: • Metallic haircolors:

Also vegetable Also gradual
haircolors; colors haircolors; haircolors
obtained from the containing metal salts
leaves or bark of that change hair color
plants. gradually by
– Color result tends to be progressive buildup
weak. and exposure to air,
– Process tends to be creating a dull,
lengthy and messy. metallic appearance.
 Types of Haircolor
Hydrogen Peroxide Developers

• Hydrogen peroxide • Developers: Also

developer: Oxidizing oxidizing agents or
agent that supplies catalysts; have a pH
necessary oxygen gas between 2.5 and 4.5.
to develop color • Volume: Measures
molecules and create concentration and
a change in natural strength of hydrogen
hair color. peroxide.
 Types of Haircolor
Lighteners

• Lighteners: Chemical
compounds that
lighten hair by
dispersing, dissolving,
and decolorizing the
natural hair pigment.
 Consultation
Release Statement

• Haircolor consultation
is the most critical
part of the color
service.
• Release statement:
Explains to clients
that there is a risk
involved in any
chemical service.
 Haircolor Formulation
Mixing Permanent Colors/Patch Test

• Permanent color
methods:
– Applicator
– Brush and bowl
• Patch test: Also
predisposition test; test
for identifying possible
allergy in a client.
 Haircolor Applications
Preliminary Strand Test/Temporary Colors

• Strand test: • Many methods of

Determines how hair applying a temporary
will react to color color, depending on
formula and how long the product used.
formula should be left • Apply colored gels,
on hair. mousses, foams, or
sprays at your
workstation after
client has been
shampooed.
 Haircolor Applications
Semipermanent/Demipermanent Haircolors

• Semipermanent • Demipermanent
colors do not contain haircolor introduces
oxidizers necessary clients to a color
to lift; they only service and enhance
deposit color and do natural hair color in
not lighten color. one easy step.
 Haircolor Applications
Single Process/Double Process Permanent Color

• Single-process • Hair lightening: Also

haircoloring: Lightens bleaching or
and deposits color in decolorizing; chemical
a single application. process of diffusion of
• Virgin application: natural hair color
Refers to first time pigment or artificial
hair is colored. haircolor from hair.
• Prelightening: First step
of double-process
haircoloring.
 Using Lighteners
On-the-Scalp/Powdered Off-the-Scalp Lighteners

• On-the-scalp • Off-the-scalp
lighteners: Lighteners lighteners: Also quick
used directly on scalp lighteners; powdered
by mixing lightener lighteners that cannot
with activators. be used directly on
the scalp.
 Using Lighteners
Time Factors

• Darker hair takes • Strength of lightening

longer to lighten. product affects the
• Porous hair lightens speed and amount of
faster than lightening.
nonporous. • Heat leads to faster
• More red in natural lightening.
color makes pale
blond more difficult to
achieve.
 Using Lighteners
Preliminary Strand Test/Lightener Retouch

• Perform a preliminary • New growth: Part of

strand test prior to hair shaft between
lightening in order to scalp and previously
determine processing colored hair.
time, condition of hair • When performing a
after lightening, and retouch, always
end results. lighten the new
growth first.
 Using Toners
Toner Application

• Toners require a • Administer a patch

double-process test for allergies or
application: other sensitivities
– Application of lightener twenty-four to forty-
– Application of toner eight hours before
each toner
application.
 Special Effects Haircoloring

• Special effects
haircoloring: Refers to
any technique that
involves partial
lightening or coloring.
– Highlighting
– Reverse highlighting
(lowlighting)
 Special Effects Haircoloring
Cap Technique/Foil Technique

• Cap technique

• Foil technique
– Slicing
– Weaving
 Special Effects Haircoloring
Baliage Technique/Highlighting Shampoos

• Baliage (free-form)
technique
• Highlighting shampoo
colors: Prepared by
combining permanent
haircolor, hydrogen
peroxide, and
shampoo.
 Special Challenges in Haircolor/Corrective
Solutions/Gray Hair

• Gray hair accepts the

level of the color
applied.
• Formulate at a Level
7 medium-blond and
deeper for best gray
coverage.
 Special Challenges in Haircolor/Corrective
Solutions/Rules for Effective Color Correction/Damaged Hair

• Rules: • Damaged hair:

– Remain calm. – Rough texture
– Determine the nature of the – Overporous condition
problem.
– Brittle and dry to touch
– Determine what caused the
problem. – Susceptible to breakage
– Develop a solution. – No elasticity
– Always take one step at a – Becomes spongy and
time. matted when wet
– Never guarantee an exact – Color fades too quickly
result. or grabs too dark
– Always strand test for
accuracy.
 Special Challenges in Haircolor/Corrective
Solutions/Fillers

• Fillers: Used to • Color fillers: Equalize

equalize porosity. porosity and deposit
• Conditioner fillers: color in one
Used to recondition application to provide
damaged, overly a uniform contributing
porous hair. pigment on
prelightened hair.
 Special Challenges in Haircolor/Corrective
Solutions/Haircolor Tips for Redheads/Brunettes/Blonds

• Redheads:
– To create warm coppery
reds, use a red-orange
base color.
– To create hot fiery reds,
use red-violet or true red
colors. • Blonds:
• Brunettes: – Double-process
– Use a cool blue base to blonding is the best
avoid orange or brassy way to obtain pale
tones. blond results.
Special Challenges in Haircolor/Corrective
Solutions/Common Haircolor Solutions

• If hair appears dull and • Use a haircolor remover

faded, mix a in cases where the hair is
demipermanent haircolor too dark because of
in the same tonal family buildup or formulation.
as the haircolor formula. • Restoring a client’s blond
• To correct overlight hair back to its natural
haircolor, apply a darker color can be tricky.
demipermanent color one
to two levels darker than
the previous formula.
 Haircoloring Safety Precautions

• Perform a patch test. • Perform a strand test.

• Check for scalp • Use an applicator bottle or
abrasions. bowl for color mixing.
• Do not brush hair prior to • Do not mix haircolor until
applying color. you are ready to use it.
• Follow manufacturer’s • Wear gloves.
instructions. • Protect client’s eyes.
• Use proper draping. • Do not overlap during a
• Use cleaned and haircolor retouch.
disinfected applicator • Use mild shampoo.
bottles, brushes, combs, • Wash hands.
and towels.