Hair & Hair care products

Structure & Function of hair

• Insulation

• Hair follicles are formed as a result of epidermal-dermal interactions

and generally appear during the first trimester in humans. Hair growth

is a distinct and multifaceted process that includes a continuous cycle

of growth, resorption, rest and renewal.

 Shampoos
• A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (i.e. surface
active material) in a suitable form liquid, solid or powder
which when used under the specified conditions will
remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair
shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user.
• Ideal Properties of a Shampoo

• It should effectively and completely remove dust or soil, excessive sebum or other
fatty substances and loose corneal cells from the hair.

• It should be easily removed on rinsing with water.

• It should not make the hand rough and chapped.

• It should leave the hair non-dry, soft, lustrous with good manageability and minimum
fly away.

• It should not cause any side-effects.

• It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the psychological requirements

of the user.
 Excipients
1.Water: It comprise of about 60-80% of the solution
therefore is the main ingredient in all shampoo
preparations. It helps in diluting the cleaning agents
which reduces the irritation. It also makes the
shampoo formula easier to spread on the hair and
scalp.
2. Principle Surfactants: These are generally anionic
surfactants having excellent foaming properties. They
provide detergency and foam.
3) Secondary Surfactants: These are basically
foaming agents that are ampholytic or anionic
detergents and help in improving detergency and
condition of hair.
4. Miscellaneous Ingredients: To achieve desired properties or intended
purpose, various ingredients are added in shampoos.
(i) Foaming Agents:
• These agents are used to introduce gas bubbles into the water. It is important
to form foam or lather, as it spreads the detergent over the hair and scalp, but
it does not participate in cleaning.
• It is true that a shampoo applied to dirty hair will not foam as much as the
same shampoo applied to clean hair because the sebum inhibit bubble
formation.
• Some of the prescription corticosteroid shampoos do not foam as compared
to cosmetic shampoos but they have a cleaning effect on the scalp.
• For examples, Lauroyl monoethanolamide, sarcosinates.
ii.) pH Adjusters: These agents are used to prevent the hair shaft from
alkalinization. Many detergents have alkaline pH that results in hair shaft
swelling. This swelling loosens the protective cuticle predisposing the hair
shaft to damage.
For Example, Citric acid, Glycolic acid.
iii.) Germicides and Anti-Dandruff Agents: These are added in a preparation
so as to treat and prevent dandruff and any microbial infection. The
shampoos which are in contact with the scalp for only a short time contain
small amount of these actives.
Example: Selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithone, salicylic acid.
• iv.) Conditioning agents: They are usually fatty substances like lanolin, oils,
etc., or natural products like egg, lecithin, amino acids, polymeric substances
and several herbal extracts, which are used for giving conditioning effect to hair.

• Fatty alcohols, fatty esters, vegetable oils, mineral oils, or humectants functions
to impart manageability, gloss, and antistatic properties to the hair. Hydrolyzed
animal protein, glycerin, dimethicone, simethicone, polyvinylpyrrolidone,
propylene glycol, etc are commonly used conditioning substances.
v.) Pearlescent Agents: These substances enhance brightness of the hair and
reflect light and are used in the concentration of 0.2-1% with pH around 4.5-6.
Chemically, they are derivatives from 4-methyl coumarins like 4- methyl-7-
diethylaminocoumarin, 4-methyl-5,7-dihydrocoumarin, etc.

vi.) Sequestrants: These are added in the formulation so as to remove hardness

of water. They act by making complex with Ca++ and Mg++ and make them
water soluble which prevents the reaction between these divalent ions.

EDTA.
• vii) Opacifying Agents: They are chemical agents added to the
preparation to give pearly shine and to make it opaque, so that light does
not pass through it. For example, Spermaceti, Alkanolamides of higher
fatty acids, propylene glycol, Mg, Ca and Zn salts of stearic acid, etc.

• Viii) Thickening Agents or Viscosity Modifiers:These are the agents used

for enhancing the viscosity in the preparation, For example, polyvinyl
alcohol, methyl cellulose, alginates, polyethylene glycol esters, colloidal
silicates, etc.
ix.) Colours: They are used to enhance the organoleptic property
of the preparation and create a visual impact on the customer. The
colours used must be certified (for toxicity and usage) and water
soluble.
x.) Perfumes: They are used for masking the odour of ingredients
present, especially detergents and are used in concentration of 0.3-
1%. For example, fruit fragrance.
xi.) Preservatives: Following effects can be caused in the product
due to the microbial attack:
a) Product degradation b) Malodour c)Turbidity d) Discoloration
Types of shampoos
• 1. Liquid, non-acid shampoos: pH of 6.5 or higher. The addition of an opacifier, like
glycol stearate makes it an opaque, pearly lotion. When the egg is added to an opacifier,
it becomes an egg shampoo. Many of these shampoos contain a protein or protein
derivative.
• 2. Non-Acid Shampoos With Cationic Conditioners : These are basically neutral
shampoos containing a cationic agent that is compatible with anionic surfactants and
suitable to cause conditioning effect to the hair.
• 3. Acid-Balanced (Low-pH) Shampoos: They are used for professional purpose. The
most popular surfactant in these products is ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, followed
by ammonium lauryl sulphate and some amphoterics.
• 4. Low pH Shampoos Cationic Conditioners: Cationic conditioning agents find wide-
spread use in low pH shampoos. These are mainly quaternary ammonium compounds,
fatty amines and their salts, and fatty amine oxides which become substantive to hair at
an acid pH.
• 5. Baby Shampoos: These have become very popular and have
properties like mildness to the hair and skin, non-irritating to the eyes,
and non-stinging in the eyes.

• 6. Gel Shampoos: They are found in concentrated form and are popular
for professional use. Gelation is generally achieved by the use of
alkanolamides, methocel or certain combinations of anionic and
amphoteric surfactants. They range in appearance from viscous liquids
to extrudable gels.
• 7. Dilutable Shampoos for Professional Use: Conventional liquid shampoos
have been replaced by either the concentrated gel shampoo or liquid dilutable
shampoos for professional use. Before using, it should be diluted with water
because are present in very high concentration. The diluted product should
have respectable foaming qualities along with good viscosity.

• 8. Cream-Paste Shampoos: These became famous in the late 40’s and early
50’s, and were packaged in jars. They are not widely used except for the
medicated forms for the control and treatment of dandruff.
 General-Purpose Cleaning Shampoo
• These shampoos share a large portion of the market and these are used for their
cleansing action. They are clear liquids or lotions having suitable consistency so that,
they can be poured easily on palms and applied on hair. In their formulation, the
amount of surfactants used is slightly more than required, so as to give strong
‘detersive’ (detergent-like) action and to produce intense and large amount of lather.

• There are several sub-categories in this type, e.g., shampoos for normal hair, oily hair,
dry hair, damaged hair.

• The main component of the cleansing shampoo is anionic surfactants, which

constitutes about 15-20% of the shampoo.
 Baby Shampoo
• These shampoos are well-known for their mildness, they
show very low or negligible amount of eye and scalp
irritation.
• Amphoteric surfactants, which have the lowest degree of
irritation, are the main ingredient in the formulation of baby
shampoo.
• Dry Shampoo : Dry shampoo otherwise known as hybrid shampoo is a

type of shampoo which reduces hair greasiness without the need for
water. It is in powder form and is typically administered from an aerosol
can. Dry shampoo is often based on corn starch or rice starch.
 Hair Conditioner
• The conditioners or hair creams are viscous emulsions or an
oily mass, applied to the hair. They are not generally
perfumed and are white, off -white or uniform in their shades.
The conditioner provides smoothness and softness to the hair
by moisturizing them. The water used for moisturizing is
almost futile, as it evaporates in the meantime .
Benefits of Hair Conditioner

1) It causes the hair to feel softer and more moisturized.

2) It reduces fly away hair.

3) It makes the hair more manageable and easier to comb.

4 ) Increase in hair shine.

Excipients
• Surfactants
• Cetyltrimethylammonium
• Partially or Totally Hydrolyzed Proteins
• hydrolysates of collagen, keratin ichthyocolla, and milk casein.
• Combinations of elastin and collagen hydrolysates have been found to impart volume
and softness to hair.
• Oily Materials
• Used to provide lubrication and lustre.
• Silicon oil is often used.
• Glossers
• light reflecting chemicals
• Dimethicone or cyclomethicone.
• Sun Screening Agents
• Benzophenone-4 ethylhexyl methoxy-cinnamate are the two agents that are used in hair
products.
• Humectants
• A variety of humectant are used i.e., polyols, sod. Pyrrolidone carboxylate, propylene glycol,
glycerin, jojoba oil.
• Thickeners
• Cellulose derivatives
• Bodying Agents
• high levels of fatty alcohols
• it gives improvement in wet hair condition, as it becomes soft and easy to comb without
breaking hair.
• Perfumes
 Hair dyes
• Hair dyes or colourants are used by both the genders to change
the natural hair colour or to mask grey hair.
• Types
• Hair dyes are classified as follows:
• 1) Temporary hair dye
• 2) Semi-permanent hair colourants/direct dye
• 3) Permanent hair dye
• 4) Lighteners or Bleaches
• Powder formulations
• Crayon formulations
Formulation
1) Dye
2) Water,
3) Organic solvent like alcohol or glycol derivatives,
4) Fatty acid and fatty acid amide,
5) Thickener,
6) Surfactant,
7) Perfume, and
8) Aliphatic primary amines as co-solvent and buffer.
• Evaluation of Hair Dyes
• Consistency: It should not be too viscous, otherwise it will
difficult to apply it, the consistency should be less so that
after application it will not drain off .
• Spreadability : The dyes should be easily spreadable so
that it can be evenly applied.
• Colour Uniformity: The colour of hair dye and hair colour
should be uniform and also the colour shade should
remain same and gives desired colour after application.
• pH : The pH should be neutral .
Allergy Test
• A small quantity of unmixed colourant product sufficient to cover an area of
1 - 2 cm2 ( For example , the size of a small coin ) should be applied behind
the ear and using a cotton bud .
• The dye should be re-applied two or three times and allowed to dry after
each application . The colourant container should be resealed and the dye
should be kept for 48 hours after application .
• In case any abnormal reactions like itching, redness or swelling in or around
the test area are visible during this period then discontinue the use.