Best Practice Manual

LYV

Original
 Items to be covered
1. Construction
- Pattern engineer (cutting die for small pattern)
2. ERC points
3. Tooling guideline
- Calendar outsole (uncured rubber outsole)
- Pressed outsole (cured rubber outsole)
- Types of Foxing (cold cement and vulcanize) / semi translucent foxing
color
- Toe bumper limitation
4. Treatment effect
- HF deboss or emboss
- Sublimation printing limitation
- TPU HF welded (sharp point peel off)
5. The material limitation for vulcanized
-Waxed material
-Polyester material
-Nylon lamination material
-Foil coated material
-Clear TPU yellowing
-White or light lace for suede upper
 Construction

5. Pattern maker making cutting die are concern small pattern can combine together or
connect cutting die for increase production efficiency. There are two point can
connect cutting die, one is straight line of pattern the other one is same radiant of
pattern.

Connect

Combine
 Construction

6. Cutting die make pin, the pin can not smaller than 1.0mm.
The distance between pin and pin can not smaller than 3.0mm, otherwise pin of
cutting die can not make it.
ERC points

What’s ERC?
- ERC is the abbreviation of Eliminate, Reduce and Combine. ERC is an activity of
helping to identify opportunities in the aim of improving efficiency by eliminating,
reducing or combining the process

- ERC is tried to reduce anything that takes time, resources or space but does not
add to the value of the product or service delivered to the customer.
 ERC points

What’s ERC benefits?

- Combine process for more efficiency

Single cutting die Combine cutting die together

ERC points

- Eliminate work for more efficiency

manual stitching computer stitching

 Tooling guideline
Calendar outsole (uncured rubber outsole)

- It can not using EPDM (ethylene propylene diene Monomer (M-class) rubber)
(better know as the ‘transparent like synthetic rubber)
- The thickness M’s:5-5.5mm / W’s/J’s:4.5-5mm / K’s:4mm-4.5mm.
- The texture is better with regular / repeat design, and need further studies if letters
are include in the pattern / texture of design.

Texture follow rolled of roller Texture must be regular

 Tooling guideline
Calendar outsole (uncured rubber outsole)

Cutting
- Special outsole cutting moulds are required, because the calendar outsole should
be cut with temperature.(250 degree)
- Taper on the edge of calendar outsole are required for wrapping upper, it should
made by special cutting machine / moulds.
- It is no foxing trimming required ( foxing width have to be 1:1)

Cutting machine for

calendar outsole
 Tooling guideline
Calendar outsole (uncured rubber outsole)

Bottom mold Top mold

Cutting
process
 Tooling guideline
Pressed outsole (cured rubber outsole)

- When open new molded outsole need to concern leather and textile thickness.
- It is best don’t use EPDM, because have yellowing issue and bonding issue.

Construction
- X-ray may appear on the foxing if the parting line is in the middle of side wall.
- The side wall of outsole should not be too height, or foxing will not have enough
bonding margin to the upper which creates bonding issues.
 Tooling guideline
Pressed outsole (cured rubber outsole)
Top mold

Bottom mold
 Tooling guideline
Pressed outsole (cured rubber outsole)
The height of side wall is 6mm. It must cover upper strobel thread.
This is make sure have good bonding between upper and outsole.

Upper
 Tooling guideline
Foxing

- It can not using EPDM.

- The thickness MS2.5-2.7mm （ without toe bumper ） / 2.3-2.5mm 、 WS2.3-
2.5mm 、 KS/INF2.2-2.4mm
- The width should be even, can not achieve uneven effect.
- Radius too big when fitting upper to outsole, foxing should be patterned / textured,
in order to avoid the x-ray and uneven surface issues.
- Maximum 4 accent line colors, foxing is single color only, maximum color for foxing
plus accent line is 5 colors (accent line 4, base color 1)
 Tooling guideline
Foxing

Cement area between upper and foxing: MS/WS6.0mm ， KS/INF5.5mm

Cement area between

upper and foxing Upper

foxing
From the upper to the outsole, foxing only attach 5mm unsafe easy
bonding broken

5mm
FGT-30 failed
 Tooling guideline
Foxing

Accent line 1

Accent line 2

Normally, accent line can make 3 colors, the maximize can make 4 colors.
(need to add equipments and will increase failed rate of foxing)
 Tooling guideline
Foxing

Normal raw of rubber color

The limitation of semi translucent foxing:

The color can not 100% clear color.

semi translucent raw rubber color

 Tooling Guideline

Toe Cap
- The material is textile or canvas, the toe cap thickness should be 1.1-1.3mm.
- The material is leather, the toe cap thickness should be 1.3-1.5mm.
- If leather construction have vamp extension need to increase toe cap thickness to
avoid X-ray.
- If leather without any texture, the thickness should be 1.5-1.7mm

Toe Bumper
- The thickness for MS/WS ： 1.5-1.7mm KS/INF ： 1.3-1.5mm. (depend on texture,
some might have 1.5-1.7mm)
- Toe bumper length can not longer, it will cause mid-foot bending.
Tooling guideline
Calendar outsole

The depth of Logo is 0.5mm

Before vulcanized After vulcanized

Logo become flat after vulcanized

Tooling guideline
Calendar outsole R is too smaller need to remove
Trefoil only
can do 0.5mm

0.7 mm 0.5 mm

0.8 mm
0.4 mm

0.9 mm
0.3 mm
Treatment effect
HF deboss or emboss

Why we shouldn’t use PU SYNTHETIC AFTER HF EMBOSSED (or deboss)

logo on vulcanized shoes ?
=> Because after vulcanizing, it has rebound ISSUE (ref. pix).

It’s rebound
Before vulcanizing against the After vulcanizing
(Tongue logo) original shape (Tongue logo)
after vulcanized
Treatment effect
Sublimation printing limitation
- Weak points:
1. With sublimation, just can sublimate on the color lighter than the color you
want to sublimate.
Ex: Material is white color/ light color => can sublimation with Black/ Dark color.
Material is black color/ dark color => can not sublimation with White/ Light color.
2. If sublimation on upper, easily to get migration through foxing or toe cap (pls
see below pix).
Therefore if we sublimation on upper, the best way is add rubber reinf on toe
cap and foxing to avoid migration issue.
Treatment effect
Sublimation printing limitation
- Weak points:
3. If sublimation on lining, then NEED to add craft paper on lining instead of
PE paper to avoid color be migration from lining to form.
- Canvas, synthetic, leather can not sublimation, due to:
* Canvas & leather material when sublimation the color can not stay on the
surface of these 2 kind of material.
** Synthetic material can not sublimation due to if this material pass via high
temp then the surface of synthetic will be spoil.
Treatment effect
Clear TPU yellowing

*TPU have 2 clear color from supplier one is normal clean one blue clean.
Normal clean after 30 days stock easily get yellowing
Blue clean have some yellowing after Vulcanize process.
**Solution:Print base color or logo to cover TPU and select “Bule clean TPU”
Material supplier:CHANG YANG
Material name:A6885W
The material limitation for vulcanized
Waxed material
Material: YH P-252
Supplier: YEE CHAIN
The material limitation for vulcanized
Waxed material

There are some serious issue.

1.Got serious wrinkle on quarter & 3 stripes

- Both sides of material has waxed:
- Bonding is not well between upper and backer materials after lamination process.
- The waxy will stick on the roller and damage it during lamination process
- Self-adhesive is no help and causing serious wrinkle on shoe.
 The material limitation for vulcanized
Waxed material

2. After vulcanized: 
      - Almost waxy oil moved to other parts on shoe, and it will cause 3 stripes
becomes more dark compared with original stripes material.
The material limitation for vulcanized
Waxed material

Solution

Option1:
- Remove waxy from YH-P252, suggestion material is YH C 194.

Option2:
- Add mudguard around vamp and quarter, but the outlook will be different.
The material limitation for vulcanized
of Oily leather
After bonding test, there
is invisible cement layer
on oily leather, because
it doesn’t absorb the
cement, this is why
peeled off easily.
The material limitation for vulcanized
Polyester material
Material: SY 08101 PR TWILL STRETCH
Supplier: SUK YOUNG
The material limitation for vulcanized
Polyester material

Weak points
- The polyester of dark color can not stand high temperature.
- It will cause color migration after vulcanized.

Solution:
Option1: change foxing color to black, but it will change out look.
Option2: add mudguard around vamp and quarter, but change design.
Option3: add Black inner tape as a blocker.
 The limitation of the Vulcanize shoes
(COLOR MIGRATION)

Due to POLYESTER material and SUBLIMATION print treatment.

We got the color migration issue in the toe cap part. So we have to add toe
cap reinforcement ( 0.8 mm rubber ).
We need pay attention about POLYESTER material and SUBLIMATION print
treatment. When we develop new sample.
The material limitation for vulcanized
Nylon lamination material
Material: 250D Nylon
Supplier: Dae Young
The material limitation for vulcanized
Nylon lamination material
Weak points:
- Nylon material can not use on upper due to material is too weak,need to add backer.
- Nylon material can not go with sublimation printing, due to the color will change after do FGT-01. We
should use "Polyester" material to instead. Pls see below pix for the color changing after FGT-01.
The material limitation for vulcanized
Foil coated material
Material: Rocky
Supplier: Juanpoveda
The material limitation for vulcanized
Foil coated material
This material has serious issues after vulcanized

1. Poor bonding
- Rocky material doesn’t have good bonding between upper and foxing.
- The foxing peel off during wear test.
The material limitation for vulcanized
Foil coated material

2. The material peel off and scrape issue.

3. The color fades after vulcanize to lighter.
The material limitation for vulcanized
TPU HF welding (sharp angle peel off)

*TPU welding normally use thickness 0.7-1.5mm TPU, and bonding (peel off) is big issue
from testing.
**Solution:
*Pattern maker need to create round angle model and extra flat edge to help avoid peel
off.
*It suggest welding on Flat smoothly surface Textile. PU or Leather.
*Best bonding is add welding 0.2mm TPU backer but will cause price increase..
The material limitation for vulcanized
White or light Lace for Suede upper

*Light color lace easily to pollute from Suede material.

**Solution: It suggest change to tonal color or dark color Lace.
Add “Clean instruction H T/Viewful”
Or PJM can accept for production shoes base on FGT & Suede material test
passed.
 The material limitation for vulcanized
White or light Lining for Suede or dark cvs upper

*Light color lining easily to pollute from Suede or dark color cvs material.
**Solution:
It suggest change to tonal color or dark color Lining.
Add “Clean instruction H T/Viewful” and “Coated stock color Migration H T”
Or PJM can accept for production shoes base on FGT & UPPER material test
passed.
 Basic expectation
PU (meekron material) using on collar binding

Straight cut is not advisable 45 degree is more acceptable

Wrinkle is visible

Footer
 AZURINE MID W G95434
SOFT TWILL MESH (V) +RESIN (V) +RUNNING WHITE FTW(01F7) 18P SLENDER (V) +LIGHT
GREY(A0TU) 4MM T50 FOAM(80.0 ASKER F) (V) +BLACK 1(A0QM) 36G T/C (V)-CY

Straight cut have wrinkle Changed to BIAS cut - improved

Footer