METHOD TO ACCESS

QUALITY OF PROCESS
AFTER EVERY STAGE OF
PROCESSING

RAJESH VIG & YASH RATTAN

B.TECH (TC) 6TH SEM.

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 INTRODUCTION

TO

PRETREATMENT

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 Aim of the pretreatment

 High and even hydrophilicity / rewettability

 Good desizing effect
 High degree of whiteness
 Removal of seed husks
 Removal of foreign substances from the fibers
 Lowest possible fiber damage
 High color yield
 Levelness of the effect

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 Pretreatment is dependent on

 Fibres (natural or synthetic materials)

 Structure / Makeup / End use (Woven goods, knit goods, yarn ….)

 Machine (Continuous, Discontinuous, Semi-continuous)

 Chemicals (Wetting-/Washing agents, Complexing agents ….)

 Pretreatment processes (Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching ….)

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 The classical steps of pretreatment: cotton woven goods

Singeing Burning down of the protruding fibers

Desizing Removal of sizing agents

Scouring/ Improvement in hydrophilicity

Alkaline Cracking Cracking of seed husks
Removal of foreign substances

Bleaching Destruction of colored substances

Removal of seed husks

Mercerizing/ Modification of the inner surface

Caustifying

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 Desizing: Sizes

Natural sizes (water insoluble) Synthetic sizes (water soluble)

Starch is a polysacharide and consist of: Polyvinyl alcohol size (PVA)

Polyacrylate size (PAC)
• 14 - 27% amylose (water soluble)
Polyester size (PES)
• 73 -86% amylopectin (water insoluble)

Carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC)

PROCESS CONC.(g/l) TIME(hr) TEMPERATURE(C)

Rot steeping ---- 10-16 30-40

Acid desizing 5-10 03-04 40

Enzymatic desizing 1-3 6.8- 7.5 50-60

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 Desizing efficiency is found in two ways CONVENTIONALand TEGEWA
method.

Conventional Method:

 In this method we first take the weight of the sized fabric, let it be W1. Then
desize the fabric, dry & take the weight, let it be W2. After that the fabric is
treated with 3gpl (35%) HCl at 70*C for 30 min. dry & take the weight of the
fabric. Let it be W3.

 Total size = W1-W3.

 Residual size = W2-W3.

 Desizing Efficiency = (Total size – Residual size)/Total size X 100.

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  Reagent: potassium iodide (10 gm. Of KI (100%) in 100 ml water, add 0.6358 gm of
iodine (100%) stir and shake; iodine is completely dissolved. Fill up to 800 ml with
water then complete to 1000 ml with ethanol.
Method:

 1. Spot drop wise solution onto fabric.

 2. Rub in gently.

 3. Assess change of color.

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Assessment of the pretreatment effects: Desizing

TEGEWA-Violet scale

No change of color = no starch size present.

Pale blue to bluish = presence of starch size or blend

Violet =of starch size with synthetic size

Desized fabric:

Pale blue to bluish violet = refer to violet scale TEGEWA This indicates residual Starch
content.
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 Scouring / Alkaline Cracking

Boiling out is the treatment of cellulose under strong alkaline conditions.

Raw cotton contains a great number of foreign substances such as hemicelluloses,

proteins, lignins, pectins, fats, waxes, natural dyes and seed husks. These are
partly water-soluble, partly only removable by an alkaline process. In some cases
an acid treatment is necessary.

Seed husks and cotton waxes can only be eliminated by longer alkaline boiling or
kier boiling. This process is important to improve the hydrophilicity (a must for
continuous dyeing and printing). A boiling process is also useful to reduce the
danger of a catalytic damage in a subsequent peroxide bleach.

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 There are several method to check the efficiency of scouring process which are:
 Measurement in weight loss
 Drop penetration test
 Wicking test MEASUREMENT IN WEIGHT LOSS
 Take 5g of dried sample and treat it with 200ml of 1% NaOH for 1 hr.at 80*C
 Rinse the sample and run out it in hot water.
 Then treat it with 200ml of 0.5%HCL at 80*C for 1 hr.
 Then Rinse Boil in distilled water(1/2hr.) Dry Weigh
NOTE:
Weight lose in scouring is normally 6-9%

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 Scouring process increase the absorbency of fabric due removal of oil and waxes.
 Absorbacy of fabric can be estimated by “Drop Penetration test”
 In this method drop of distilled water is allowed to remain in contact with the scoured
cloth for30sec.
 If the drop absorbed in this time, the material is jugged to be absorbent .Hence it showed
that efficient scouring done
 In case of printing the time of absorption of drop of water must be lower then 1sec.

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  Wicking or capillary action may be observed by timing the rate at which water climbs up
a narrow strip of fabric suspended vertically with its lower end dipping into the water.

METHOD:
 A square of fabric,2”X 2”is fully immersed in water at20*C .
 Then access the efficiency of process by TEGEWA- Wicking-scale.

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Assessment of the pretreatment effects: Hydrophilicity

Several methods: TEGEWA- Wicking-test

“modified wicking-test”

“modified
“modifiedwicking-test”
wicking-test” (measurement
(measurementof
ofthe
thecapillary
capillaryrise)
rise)

time
time goodness
goodnessof
ofthe
thehydrophilicity
hydrophilicity
(sec/cm)
(sec/cm)

00 -- 33 extremely
extremelyhigh
high
33 -- 55 very
very good
good
55 -- 88 good,
good, acceptable
acceptable
>8
>8 process
processto
to be
beexamined
examined
Reference for 100% cotton

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 Bleaching

Bleaching means, to destroy the natural dyestuff in the fibre.

There are two chemically different bleaching processes:

 Oxidative bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite,
sodium chlorite or peracetic acid
 Reductive bleaching with stabilized hydrosulphite preparations and
sulphoxylates.

The choice of chemicals depends on the required degree of whiteness, on technological

and ecological aspects, on the machinery and on economic aspects.

Overdosing of the bleaching chemicals, insufficient temperature regulation, too long

bleaching times, existence of catalysts, insufficient stabilizing, etc. may lead to
damaging of fibers.

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  Absolute value for assessing bleached goods is difficult to define, since they
are invariably associated with the subsequent use of the fiber, yarn or fabric.
The factors which form the basis of assessment include:
 1.     Whiteness
 2.     Chemical or physical damage
 3.     Absorbency, particularly of cellulose materials and blends.
 4.     Presence of residual non-cellulose matter.
 5.     Levelness of preparation.
 6.     Freedom from impurities, e.g., cotton seed
 7.     Suitability for subsequent processes e.g., spinning, dyeing etc.

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 Whiteness is a relative term , measured with the help of an instrument known as –
SPECTROPHOTOMETER

The instrument helps to measure the reflectance data of the substrate ( without
color) and using this data in formulas coverts it into various whiteness readings
such as :

Ganz
CIE
Stensby
Berger
ISO/Tappi .. etc

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  W=Y+800(Xn-X)+1700(yn-y)
 Where x,y are the calorimetric values and xn,yn are chromaticity co-ordinates of
light source.
 YI= 128X-106Z
 Y
 Where X,Y,Z are tristimulus value.

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  The leftover peroxide can cause serious problems in further reactive
dyeing

 The depth of certain dyes can be lost up to 40%

 Turquoise, blues and reds are especially sensitive to peroxide

 For peroxide killing either a reductive base product or a catalase enzyme

based product can be used.

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 Influence of peroxide on reactive dyeing
With Invatex PC Without Invatex PC

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 Mercerizing
In this process cotton fabric is treated with caustic sol. This treatment cause fibre to swell and
give lustrous appearance

Caustic concentration 270 - 330 g/l NaOH 100% (28-32 °Bé)

Caustic temperature 15 - 20 °C (hot mercerization 60 - 90 °C)
Reaction time 45 - 60 sec. (hot: shorter time)

Tension against shrinkage

Stabilizing up to about 50 g/l NaOH 100%
Mercerizing wetting agent for quick and even wetting
Pretreatment raw, desized, boiled off, bleached

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 Mercerizing Effects

•Increase in colour depth.

• Covering immature and dead cotton.
•Dimensional Stability.
•Increase in tensile strength.

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 There are several method to check the efficiency of Mercerization process which are:
 Visual assessment
 Determination of Swelling index
 Barium activity number(BAN)

Visual assessment:
 This is the simplest method used in textile industry.
 This assessment based on a comparison of the test sample with standard sample.
 A viewing angle of 45* is generally recommended and position of samples are
changed several times during the test.

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  In this method the yarn together with weight(0.8g) is hanged into measuring cylinder
containing sufficient amount of solvent as to dip upper end of the yarn .
 The yarn is then allowed to untwist.
 Number of revolutions made by weight are measured for 3 min.
 Swelling index=untwisting no. in solvent
untwisting no. in water
NOTE:
Swelling index increases with degree of mercerization

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  Marcerized sample absorbs barium hydroxide to the greater degree than NaOH and from
practical point of view barium hydroxide is more easy to estimate.the ratio of uptake of
reagent has been referred to barium activity number.
Method:
 In this procass 2g of mercerized and unmercerized sample are placed separately in two
conicle flask containing 30ml of N/4 barium hydroxide and left for 2hr.
 10ml of clear solution is withdrawn and titrated it against N/10 HCL using
phenolphthalein as indicator.
 A blank titration is also carried out on the measured barium hydroxide sol. Using
methyle red as indicator.
BAN=b-s X100
b-u

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  Where, b= ml required for blank test
s= ml required for mercerized cotton
u= ml required for unmercerized cotton
NOTE:
BAN of unmercerized cotton 100
BAN of semi mercerized cotton 115-130
BAN of mercerized cotton ~ 155

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 IINDRODUCTION

TO

DYEING

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  It is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn,
cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye.
 For most of the thousands of years in which dyeing has been used by humans to
decorate clothing or fabrics for other uses.
 the primary source of dye has been nature, with the dyes being extracted from
animals or plants
 In the last 150 years, humans have produced artificial dyes to achieve a broader
range of colors, and to render the dyes more stable to resist washing and general
use.
 Different classes of dye are used for different types of fiber and at different
stages of the textile production process from loose fibers through yarn and cloth
to completed garments.

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 There are several method to check the efficiency of dyeing process.which are given
below:
 FASTNESS TO CROCKING.
 FASTNESS TO WASHING.
 FASTNESS OF PERSPIRATION.
 FASTNESS TO WATER.
 FASTNESS TO LIGHT.

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 Method:
 Condition the sample at temperature of 20+ 2*C and relative humidity of 65+ 2% for 4 hr.
 Cut the sample of size 5x13cm .
 Place the sample on the base of crock meter and place holder over it.
 Mount the bleached cotton cloth on the finger with help of clip.
 Lower the finger and run 10 complete turns at 1t/sec.
 Remove the white sample and evaluate it with help
of grey scale after conditioning.
 For wet rubbing wet the white square piece in water
and squeeze.
 Then process in similar manner. and evaluate crocking fastness
with the help of grey scale.

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 Method:
 Add 0.22gm of detergent to 150ml of water.
 Add this sol. To the container of lounderometer and add 50 stainless steel balls in it.
 Prepare the fabric sample of size 8x5cm by stitching bleached
cotton fabric on both side of the sample.
 Place the fabric sample inside the container and start the
washing cycle for 44min at temperature of 45*C.
 Then take out the sample, dry it , and evaluate for wash
fastness with the help of grey scale.

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 Method:
 Prepare the standard AATCC sol. Using following recipe:
 AATCC acidic for 1L sol.
NaCl = 10+ 0.01g
lactic acid= 1+ 0.01gm
sodium hyrogen phosphate =1 + 0.1gm.
Histidine monohydrous chloride =0.25 + 0.1gm.
adjust to pH 4.3 + 0.2
 Cut the sample of size 6x6cm and condition it at temp. of 20+2*C and RH of 65 +2 for 4 hr.
 Stitch piece of bleached cotton fabric on face side of the sample.
 Dip the sample in this std. sol of 20min.
 Take out the sample and squeeze b/w plastic plate.
 Keep inside the prespiration tester for 6hr. At 37-38*C.

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  Take out and dry the sample.
 Then evaluate for fastness with help of grey scale.

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 Method:
 Condition the sample at temperature of 20+2*C and RH of 65 +2 for 4 hr.
 Cut the sample of size 4x10cm.
 Stitch a piece of bleached cotton on face side of dyed fabric.
 Dip the sample in water for 15 min.
 Take out the sample and squeeze b/w plastic plates.
 Keep inside the perspiration tester for 6hr. At 37-38*C.
 Take out and dry the sample.
 Then evaluate for fastness with help of grey scale.

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Textile Effects
 Purpose and Scope
   This test method provides the general principles and procedures which are currently in
use for determining the colorfastness to light of textile materials.   The test options
described are applicable to textile materials of all kinds and for colorants, finishes and
treatments applied to textile materials. 


Test Options included are:

1-Enclosed Carbon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light
2-Enclosed Carbon-Arc Lamp, Alternate Light and Dark
3-Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light, Black Panel Option
4-Xenon-Arc Lamp, Alternate Light and Dark
5-Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light, Black Standard Option

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 Samples of the textile material to be tested and the agreed upon comparison
standard(s) are exposed simultaneously to a light source under specified
conditions.
 The colorfastness to light of the specimen is evaluated by comparison of the
color change of the exposed portion to the masked control portion of the test
specimen or unexposed original material, using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color
Change or by instrumental color measurement. 

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 INTRODUCTION

TO

FINISHING

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  Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different processes that the textile
materials undergo after pretreatments, dyeing or printing for final embellishments to
enhance their attractiveness and sale appeals well as for comfort and usefulness.
 Finishing treatments are basically meant to give the textile material certain desirable
properties like
 Softness
 Lusture
 Pleasant handle
 Drape
 Dimensional stability
 Crease recovery
 Antistatic
 Non-slip
 Soil release

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 There are several types of finishes used on textile fabrics.
Main finishes are:
 Easy care finishes
 Flame retardant finishes.
 Water repellent finishes.
 Softening finishes.
 Hand building finishes.

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  cotton garments ensure maximum comfort thanks to their suppleness and their
capacity to absorb humidity.
 The weak point of cotton clothing is its tendency to crease easily, which makes
care of such garments more difficult,
 The tendency to crease is due to the to partially amorphous structure of the
cellulose, which means that structural alterations can quite easily occur.
 Many weak molecular bonds such as hydrogen or Van DerWaals forces, which
link together long cellulose polymer chains, can alter
In order to limit creasing, Resin can be used which creates
stronger (covalent) and more permanent bonds and reduce creasing to a large
extent.
Types of cross linking agent used:
 Formaldehyde based product.(DMU,DMDHEU)
 Non –formaldehyde based product(DMeDHEU,BTCA)

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 Fabric :100 % cotton
RECIPE:
 Siltex 30200/Resin = 120 - 180 g/l
 Siltex ME 30 = 30 g/l
 Siltex 30098cs/Asisoft CS = 20 g/l
 Siltex PE 20 = 10 g/l
 MgCl2 = 30 - 45 g/l
PARAMETERS:
 Type Of Water Used =Tap Water
 pH Of Bath = 4 - 5( used Acetic Acid to adjust the pH )
 Pick Up = 80 % by weight
 Temperature = Ambient ( 27 – 28 °C )
PROCESS:
 PAD,DRY & CURE THE FABRIC AT 160 °C FOR 4 MINUTES.

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 Method:
 A specimen is cut from the fabric with template 2”x1”.
 It is creased by folding in half, placing it b/w two glass plates
and adding 2Kg weight.
 After 1min. the weight is removed and specimen transferred
to the fabric clamp on the instrument
 Allow it to recover from crease.
 As it recovers the dial of the instrument is rotated to keep the
free edge of specimen in the line with knife edge.
 At the end of time period allowed for recovery ,usually 1min.,the recovery angle in
degree is read on the dial scale.
This test is carried out on the both sides of the fabric.

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  Flame retardent finishes mainly used for fire fighter and an emergency personnel require
protection from flames.
 It is also used for floor covering ,upholstery, when used in building.
 The military and the airline industry has big use of flame retardant finishes.

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 There are two type of finishes:
 Durable finishes (THPC)
 Non durable finishes.(diammonium phosphate).
RECIPE:
 Melamine Resin = 35g/l
 Pyrovatex CP= 280g/l
 softner= 25 g/l
 Acid catalyst= 20g/l
 Wetting agent= 1.25 g/l
PROCESS:
 PAD,DRY & CURE THE FABRIC AT 150°C FOR 4-5 MINUTES.

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 Method:
 Condition the sample at 105*c in an oven for 30 min.
 Cooling for 30 min. in a desiccator
 After this cut the sample of size 3.5”X10”
 Specimen is mounted in special U shape holder and suspended this frame
vertically in test chamber
 The sample is subjected to flame along the centre bottom edge for 3sec and allow
to burn.
 The char length of specimen is measured and recorded.
NOTE:
 The fabric said to be flame retardant if ignition time is high and have tendency
to self extinguish.

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  Water repellency is the relative degree of resistance
Of a fabric to surface wetting, water penetration, and
water absorption.
 The widely used method of producing water proof fabric is by
coating the fabric with a solid polymeric coating, e.g.
neoprene,PVC.
Such solid no porous continue coating are impermeable
Both to passage of air and water vapour.
There are four type of finishes used:
 Paraffin repellent.
 Stiaric acid-malmine repellent.
 Silicone water repellent.
 Flouro-carbon based repellent.

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  This test method is applicable to any textile fabric.  It measures the resistance of
fabrics to wetting by water.  It is especially suitable for measuring the water-
repellent efficacy of finishes applied to fabrics.
  Principle
 Water sprayed against the surface of a test specimen under controlled
conditions produces a wetted pattern whose size depends on the relative
repellency of the fabric. 
 Evaluation is accomplished by comparing the wetted pattern with pictures on a
standard chart

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  These types of finishes are used to add firmness and fullness or to improve hand of the
fabric.
 It is desirable in certain polyamides and polyester materials for petticoats, collar
interlinings, etc.
Hand building can be divided into two groups:
 Fullness.
 Stiffness.
There are two types of finishes used:
 Non durable Hand building finishes.(PVA)
 durable Hand building finishes(Poly vinyl acetate)

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 Shirley stiffness tester:
 cut out the sample according to template.
 Both sample and the scale are transferred to the
platform with the fabric underneath.
 Both are slowly pushed forward.
 The movement of template and fabric is continued
until the tip of the sample viewed in the mirror cuts both
both index lines.
 The bending length immediately be read off from scale mark.
 C=L X F (o)
Where F(o)={Cos1/2(o)}1/2
{ 8tan(o)}
Result :more the length more the stiffness of the fabric.

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  The use of soft finishes is now universal.
 The cost of such a simple treatment is low yet
the result is a dramatic improvement in quality.
 Chemical after treatment with softener gives agreeable
Soft hand, smoothness, drape and pliability.
There are four type of finishes used:
 Cationic softener.
 Anionic softener .
 Amphoteric softener.
 Non ionic softener.

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 There are two methods which we used to measure the efficiency of softening process:
 Sledge method.
 Bending length tester.
Sledge method:
 In this method sledge wt. taken is 100g and we
require force measuring unit reading upto100g.
 Then coefficient of friction is measured by given
Formula:
 Coeff. of friction= force to pull sledge(F)
wt.of sledge
 The ratio of dynamic /static friction gives good indicator of type of hand.
Note: more the ratio greasy the handle.
Lesser the ratio scroopy the handle.

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  AATCC test method manual.
 Google search.
 Schindller.
 Heywood.

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 Have a Nice
Day!
THANK YOU

FROM:
RAJESH VIG
YASH RATTAN

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