Cutting
FOOTWEAR ENGINEERING-I
Definition
Clicking: The process of cutting a material into pre-specified size and shape in
accord with the required pattern is called clicking. Actually clicking is a process
which produces footwear components by cutting from large area of the material.
Clicking Room: Clicking room is the name given to the part of the factory
where the different parts for the upper of the boot or shoe are cut from leather
materials.
Clicker: Clicker is the name given to the operative who does the actual cutting
out.
The work performed in the clicking room is very important for two
main reasons.
Firstly, A clicker will be cutting up hundreds pounds worth of
material in any one week. It is possible by economical cutting or
otherwise to show large profit or a large loss. Thus, it can be seen that
clicking is an area that will greatly affect the profitability of a company.
Secondly, Poor clicking can affect a greater number of subsequent
operations than any other single operation.
Qualities required in a clicker
I. Good Reasoning Ability:
At the present time 41% all shoe uppers are made from leather. No
two skins are the same shape. So you cannot give a Clicker a blueprint to
follow when cutting up skins. He must be able to reason this out for
himself.
II. Spatial Perception:
If economical clicking is to be achieved, a clicker must have the ability
to interlock different shapes on to each other and also to plan ahead to
achieve the maximum number of cut components from a skin. He must
have the perceptive ability to distinguish blemishes and the defects on
the surface of the skin.
Definition
III. Color Realization:
Due to the variation of color shades within skins it is necessary to match many
cut components. It is important, therefore, that Clickers are not color-blind.
IV. Decision Making:
Clickers must be able to make quick, accurate decisions. Each time a
component is cut the clicker makes a decision as to its suitability for the finished
shoe. If he was a poor or hesitant decision maker his output of good quality cut
work would be very low.
Some of the larger shoe manufacturing companies employ selection tests for
clickers to find out if new recruits have these inherent qualities before spending a
great deal of time and money in any in training them to their maximum potential.
Methods of cutting
The action of cutting the component can be either by hand or
machine. Traditionally, cutting was done by hand but in case of large
production cutting is done by machine.
There are two basic methods of cutting:
1) Hand cutting
2) Machine cutting
Hand Cutting
Templates confirming to the patterns are used for cutting the upper,
lining and socks. These are made from card board or fiber board and
are bounded by brass strips. The upper material is spread on a cutting
block. Knife is held perpendicular to the block while cutting the
material. The knife is moved around the template . Hand cutting
operations are time consuming and more labor oriented,
recommended for shoe sample preparation and certain constructions
involving high fashion and smaller production runs.
Hand Cutting Tools
A variety of tools is required by the hand cutter, which include:
1)Pattern or template: The materials used for hand cutting
patterns will depend on the volume of orders. If the requirement
were a sample, the pattern would normally be from pattern cutters
paper. A small order would normally be made from fiberboard, which
would be bound with a brass edge. If the order is for a substantial
quantity, this could be made from zinc.
Hand Cutting Tools
2) Cutting board: The traditional cutting board is wooden and
made from Maple, Pine wood. Other types of board are available,
but wood is by far the preferred choice.
3) Knife: The traditional tool of a hand cutter is a wooden handled
knife. This has a screw mechanism that holds a cutting blade. It is
possible to purchase pre-grounded blades, but their quality is
questionable and experienced cutters tend to prefer to grind their
own. The shape that the cutter grinds the blade would depend on
the type of material that is being cut.
Hand Cutting Tools
If the cutter uses the knife for firm leather, he will choose to use a
blade with more curved or hooked. If he cuts soft, thin and
stretchy leathers of fabrics, he will choose a straighter blade to
reduce the drug on the material.
Hand Cutting Tools
4)Awl: This is used to prick the material, thus
showing the position of underlayes, eyelets etc.
5)Grind stone: This is used for grinding and re-
shaping the blade or for initial sharpening the blade.
When using the grind stone, care must be taken to
protect the eyes from flying particles and goggles
must be worn if a perplex shield is not provided.
Hand Cutting Tools
6)Rap stick: This is traditionally a square piece of wood that is covered on
three sides with emery paper of varying degree of abrasiveness. When the cutter
grinds a new blade, he will initially use the most abrasive emery. When he has the
blade to a standard ready for use, he will use less abrasive emery. On the fourth side,
he may use a piece of vegetable tanned leather to hone the blade.
Hand cutting process
Hand cutting is a skilled task and competency can take some
time to achieve. The knife should be held to give the cutter as
much control as possible. Each component should be cut using the
least movements possible. A right handed cutter would normally
start cutting the left side of the component and make a sweeping
movement to the right.
Advantages & Disadvantages of cutting process
Advantages of hand cutting:
Disadvantages of hand cutting:
1. Cost less cutting
1. Unproductive
2. Suitable for sample cutting
2. Less accuracy
3. Need less working area
3. Low quality
4. Easy to operate
5. Safe method
Stitch types
1. Chain Stitch
Each loop is interconnected with the following loop of the same thread.
Opposite sides of the seam look different. This stitch type can be very easily
unpicked by running back from the last stitch to the first. The seam is
generally quite extensible.
It is often used for temporary stitching
Chain Stitch
The action necessary to complete a chain stitch is as follows:
(1) The needle pierces the material and leaves a loop of thread below.
(2) After the needle ascends the material feeds to the next stitch
position.
(3) The needle again descends to pierce the material and also the loop left
from the previous stitch.
2. Lock Stitch
Lock stitch is formed by two different thread systems. A needle thread
introduced from one side of the material is interlaced with an underthread
supplied from a spool on the other side. The stitch is difficult to unpick and
both sides have the same appearance. Generally less extensible than chain
stitch seams, this type finds the widest application.
Lock Stitch
The action necessary to complete a chain stitch is as follows:
(1) The descending needle pierces the material, and carries the thread below
the needle plate.
2) A small loop is formed as the needle commences to rise, and the rotating
hook of the bobbin goes through it and thereby interlocks the bobbin thread.
(3) The needle still ascending, and assisted by the take-up lever, draws up the
loop and slack thread causing the lock to position itself centrally in the
material.
Thank You
