Thread

Background
Thread is a tightly twisted strand of two or more plys of yarn that
are circular when cut in cross section. It is used for hand sewing
and in home sewing machines. Ninety-five percent of all sewing
thread that is manufactured is used in commercial and industrial
sewing. Sewing thread is distinguished from yarn by the fact that
thread is used to sew together garments or other products, but
yarn is the collection of fibers used to weave or knit into a textile
fabric. The terms are confusing and are often used
interchangeably; thread can be made of yarn, but yarn is not
made of threads.
 History
Thread has been essential to humans since the first garments ere
made for warmth and protection. Early sewing thread consisted of
thin strips of animal hide that were used to stitch together larger
pieces of hide and fur. The advance of civilizations brought many
refinements in clothing and adornments, including the spinning
and dyeing of thread. The Egyptians were skilled at making thread
from plant fibers and in using the wool and hair from domestic
animals in spinning. They and the Phoenicians also pioneered the
use of berries and plant matter in the manufacture of colorful and
long-lasting dyes. The Chinese and Japanese discovered the
beauties of silk fibers spun as thread and made as cloth.
 Cotton thread
Cotton is picked from cotton plants in the field and compressed
into large bales. The bales often contain dirt, broken pieces of
cotton boll, seeds, and other impurities, so cleaning is a first step
at the mill. The bale is broken, the fibers are opened by a comb-
like device, mixed together, and cleaned. The cleaned cotton
fibers are termed laps. The laps are fed into a carding machine
that separates the fibers. Further cleaning, combing, and sorting
readies the fibers for processing into thread.

Cotton threads are made of the cellulose from plants and are used
to stitch fabrics like linen, rayon, and cotton that also have plant
origins. Plant-based fabrics may shrink, and cotton thread has the
same shrinkage characteristics.
 Polyester thread
Polyester is a petroleum product. During the cracking process,
crude oil is broken down into a number of components that will be
processed into a range of products from gasoline to plastics
including polyester. Xylene, a hydrocarbon compound, is
generated during cracking. Nitric acid and glycol are added to
modify the xylene by a series of chemical reactions. The fluid is
heated and condensed in an autoclave, and the molecules align to
form long molecules called polyester. The resulting mass is
extruded, cooled with water, and cut into chips. These chips are
shipped from the refinery to the thread manufacturer for spinning.
 Quality Control
Thread must emerge from the factory with a great combination of
performance characteristics. During its lifetime, thread will be passed
through a number of metal guides on a sewing machine, held in tension by
the sewing machine needle and subjected to its action, bent into position
from the bobbin to interlock with the thread from the needle, stretched and
abraded when the garment is worn, and laundered or dry cleaned many
times. Thread functions not only to clothe but to protect us. We count on
the thread in products like shoes and automobile safety belts to protect us
throughout the life of the product.
Product manufacturers place considerable demand on thread makers to
improve the quality of thread and to adapt to demands of the workplace.
For example, a lubricating finish is applied to thread that is used to stitch
thermoplastic materials so the sewing machine needle is constantly
lubricated to prevent its frictional heat from rising and fusing the material.
Production of almost all types of threads is fully automated. A device called
an Autoconer monitors the thread quality, cuts out imperfections, and
rejoins the ends to produce an even thread without knots, joins, or weak
areas.
 Byproducts/Waste
Cotton thread production results in more waste than the manufacture of other
types of thread because of the parts of the cotton that cannot be used. The
volume is still relatively minor but must be disposed. Imperfect fibers and
fiber dust are generated in the early stages of production and, again, must be
disposed.

The Future
In the future, the manufacture of thread must continue to adapt to new types
of fabric and clothing design and production. Futurists may predict that
clothing and its varieties will become obsolete; however, the reality is that the
consumer wants to express personality through a closet filled with clothing for
a variety of activities. And this clothing is sewn together with specialized
threads.
 Thread Science
• Introduction: Choosing the Right Thread
• Thread is an integral part of many items
that we use daily. Certainly the various
components of
• our apparel are joined with thread but what
about the string that is attached to our tea
bags?
Consideration must be given to:

1. Sewability,
2. loop strength,
3. linear strength,
4. elongation,
5. shrinkage,
6. abrasion resistance,
7. colorfastness, and
8. resistance to chemicals, heat,
9. light, etc.
Each can affect the desirability of a thread for a particular end-
use.
 Selecting the proper thread for your product can be
simplified if these basic factors are
considered:

• required seam strength; type of seam;

stitch type and number of stitches per
inch;
• type of material being sewn; type of
sewing machines and related equipment;
conditions under
• which the product must perform; normal
life of the product; and cost effectiveness.
 Where Do Fibers Come From?

• Fibers used to make industrial sewing threads come from

two major sources:
• Natural Fibers: Come from plants and animals and are
spun or twisted into yarns.
Cotton is the most common natural fiber used to make
thread. Other natural fibers
include silk, wool, jute, ramie, hemp, and linen.
• Synthetic Fibers: Are made from various chemicals or
regenerated from cellulose as wood pulp and cotton
waste.
We select our synthetic fibers based on their sewability
performance, ease of dying, colorfastness, and pricing.
 Fibers Come in What Forms?

• When we receive bales of cotton, polyester, nylon,

DuPont™ Kevlar®, and DuPont™ Nomex®,
• the fiber contained in the bales comes in one of the
following forms:
• Staple: Refers to natural fibers that vary in length or to
synthetic fibers with filaments
• that are cut to a definite length during the manufacturing
process
• Continuous Filament: Refers to synthetic fibers of an
indefinite length
• Is made from cotton or polyester staple fibers that are
• spun into single yarns and then two or more of these
• yarns are plied to make a sewing thread.
• Anecot Plus™, DuPont™ Kevlar®, DuPont™
• Nomex®, and Perma Spun™.)
Is made by spinning a wrap of staple cotton or
polyester around a continuous filament of polyester fibers..
When wrapped with a cotton wrap, core threads have very
good needle heat resistance.
When wrapped with a polyester wrap, core threads have excellent chemical
• resistance and colorfastness. overalls. (Example products are: D-Core™
and
• Is made from continuous filaments of polyester or
nylon that are twisted together into a cohesive bundle
and then plied to make the thread. They are then
dyed, stretched, and heat set to achieve the desired
physical characteristics. bathing suits to
automobile upholstery. (Example products are: Anefil
• Normally produced from a single nylon continuous
filament resembling fishing line. Usually monofilament
threads are used because the thread is translucent
and blends in with many colors.
used in quilting operations on quilts and bedspreads, as well
as, in blindstitch operations on drapery and apparel.
• Is made from continuous filaments of polyester or
nylon that have been textured by pin, disc, or belt and
then heat set to insure proper bulk retention. (Example
products are: Best Stretch™,
Wildcat™, and Wildcat Plus™.)
• Is produced from continuous filaments of nylon that
have been bonded together. They have very little twist
so that they look like a single cord of yarn. furniture, shoes,
and other heavy
duty applications. (Example product is Anecord™
• Is made from continuous filaments of polyester that are
entangled as they pass through a high pressure air jet.
This yarn is then twisted, dyed, and wound on cones
with lubricant. Air entangled threads are used in
everything from seaming flags to heavy denim jeans.
• The above types of thread constructions that involve
twisting (such as spun, core, and twisted multifilament)
are twisted in the following directions:
• • "S" direction or right twist for single strand yarn
• (such as spun)
• • "Z" direction or left twist for ply yarn (such as
• core and twisted multifilament)
 Thread Finishing
• Soft: • Gassed:
• Refers to thread that • Refers to a finish where
receives no further cotton thread is
processing to change its passed through a flame at
general physical high speed to
characteristics. It is dyed to reduce its fuzz and have a
the proper shade greater sheen.
and degree of colorfastness, Gassing is done in a wrap
wound on the form prior to
proper size package, and mercerizing and dyeing.
lubricated for
sewability.
 FINISHES
• Mercerized: • Glaced:
• Refers to a finish where cotton • .Refers to a finish in which 100%
thread is cotton and
treated in a caustic solution under some cotton wrapped core threads
controlled are treated
tension. This process causes the with starches, waxes, and special
fibers to chemicals
swell, resulting in greater affinity for under controlled heat and then
dye brushed or
penetration. Mercerization increases polished to a high luster. The result is
the a
luster of cotton threads and at the glossy, hard finish that protects the
same time thread
increases their strength. from abrasion and enhances ply
security
during the sewing of hard to penetrate
fabrics.
 Bonded:

• Refers to a finish where multifilament polyester

or nylon is treated with a special resin that
encapsulates the filaments forming a tough,
smooth protective coating on the surface of the
thread. This bonding process adds significantly to
the thread's ability to resist abrasion and
greatly enhances ply security during sewing.
 F
Relationship Between Thread Construction, Fiber Type,
and Thread Finish

Fiber Type Thread Finish

•Cotton wrapped polyester •Soft
Thread Construction
Polyester wrapped polyester Soft
1. Core Soft
•Cotton •Mercerized, or Glaced
2. Spun
Polyester Soft
3. Air Entangled
•Polyester •Soft
4. Textured
•Polyester •Soft
5. Twisted Multifilament
•Nylon •Soft
6. Monocord
Polyester Soft or Bonded
7. Monofilament
•Nylon •Bonded
•Nylon •Soft
 TICKET NUMBER
.
• These systems fall into two distinct classes.
• Indirect - Fixed weight systems.
• Direct - Fixed length systems.
• .
• The following are the indirect (type 1) systems which are usually
used for sewing thread:
• Cotton System ( Ne, English)
– The cotton count system (Ne) of a thread is the number of 840 yards
hanks of the thread in a pound (16 ounces, imperial) weight. For
example a 20 Ne cotton thread would contain 20 x 840yard hanks per
pound of thread.
• Metric system (Nm)
– The Nm metric count of a yarn is the number of 1000m hanks in a
Kilogramme. For example a 20 Nm cotton thread would contain 20 x
1000m hanks per kilogramme of thread.
 The following are the direct (type 2) systems
which are usually used for sewing thread:

• Tex Ticket System

– The size of thread in this system is expressed as the
weight in grammes of 1000m of yarn. Sewing threads
are generally quoted in decitex (dtex) or one tenth of
a tex. For example a 27 tex thread weighs 27 grams
per 1000m, and is typically specified as a 270 dtex
thread.
• Denier
– Denier is based on the weight in grams of 9000m of
yarn. For example 270 denier thread weighs 270
grams per 9000m.
 In addition to the four previously identified systems, there are
three further commonly used systems which extend the two
indirect (type 1) systems:

• Ne Based Ticket Number

– Ticket numbers based on the cotton count (Ne) consist of the cotton count
followed by the ply (the number of yarns in the twist). For example, if the
construction is 60s/3 Ne (A 60s Ne thread made from 3 20s Ne yarns), the ticket
number would be 603. Similarly if the construction were 40s/2 Ne the ticket
number would 402.
• Cotton Ticket Numbers
– Cotton numbers are based on the cotton count (Ne) for a 3 ply thread. The cotton
ticket number of a thread is equal to the cotton count of a three ply equivalent.
For example, if the construction is 60s/3 Ne (A 60s Ne thread made from 3 x 20s
Ne yarns), the ticket number would be 60. Similarly if the construction were 40s/2
Ne the ticket number would still be 60.
• Metric Ticket Numbers
– Based on the metric count system, Metric numbers are used for most synthetic
sewing threads. The metric ticket number of a thread is equal the metric count of
a three ply equivalent. For example if the construction is 60/3 Nm the ticket
number will be 60. Similarly if the construction was 40/2 Nm the ticket number
would be 60.
Factors that Affect Seam Strength

Five factors that determine the strength of a seam include:

Fabric type and weight.

Thread fiber type, construction, and size.
Stitch and seam construction.
Stitches per inch.
Stitch balance.

Any one of these factors can adversely affect the performance of a

sewn product depending on the end-use of the sewn product. 
Following are a few general comments related to the factors listed
above.
Thread Fiber Type, Construction, and
Size

These all have a definite effect on seam strength including

the following factors:

Fiber Type:
Some fibers are stronger than others and have greater loop
strength contributing to greater seam strength. For example, a
100% spun polyester thread will give greater seam strength than a
100% cotton thread of the same size.
Synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon are much more resistant to
abrasion and chemical degradation (such as bleach) than cellulosic
fibers. Cellulosic fibers on the other hand have superior heat
resistance.
DuPont™ Kevlar® and DuPont™ Nomex® threads were designed
to resist high temperatures
Thread Construction (Spun, Core, Textured,
Multifilament, etc.):

Core threads, made with continuous filament polyester core, generally will
provide higher seam strength than spun and textured threads.
Continuous filament polyester or nylon thread construction will provide
greater resistance to abrasion and seam degredation.
Some thread constructions are less subject to shearing or cutting each
other when interlooped together in the seam. Air entangled, textured, and
monocord thread constructions exhibit the best loop strength
characteristics.
 
Thread Finish (Soft, Mercerized, Glaced,
Bonded, Etc.): 
Glace or bond finished threads generally have superior abrasion resistance
to soft finished threads.
Mercerized threads are stronger than soft cotton threads of the same fiber
type
Thread Size (Tex, Metric, Yarn Size):

Given a specific fiber type and thread construction, the

larger the thread size, the greater the seam strength. As
previously mentioned, different fiber types and thread
constructions have different loop-strength characteristics.
In many cases, a smaller thread size will imbed itself in the
seam making it less prone to surface abrasion
DESCRIPTION:
Where loops are seen either on the bottom side or topside of the seam. This is
particularly evident with different colored needle and threads. Also, where the
stitch is too loose
DESCRIPTION: Where the loops on the bottom-side of the seam are inconsistent and
do not appear uniform.

SOLUTIONS: 1) Use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics; 2)

Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper thread is unraveled, the needle loop
lays over half way to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam.
 Open Seam Failure - Fabric

DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch line

is still intact but the yarns in the
fabric have ruptured.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES -

FABRIC: 1) Reinforce stress points
with Bartacks. Make sure the
bartacks are the proper length and
width for the application; 2) Check to
make sure the patterns have been
designed for proper fit; 3) Make sure
the ideal seam construction is being
used; 4) Contact your fabric supplier.
 
DESCRIPTION: Where the seam does not lay flat after stitching
DESCRIPTION: Where the seam does not lay flat and smooth along the stitch
line. Caused by one of the following:

1) Feed Puckering - where the plies of fabric in the seam are not being aligned
properly during sewing; 2) Tension Puckering - where the thread has been
stretched and sewn into the seam. The thread then causes the seam to draw
back and pucker; 3) Yarn Displacement or structural jamming - caused by sewing
seams with too large of thread that causes the yarns in the seam to be displaced,
gi
DESCRIPTION: Where the edge of the seam is either extremely "ragged" or "rolls"
inside the stitch.
DESCRIPTION:  Where a "splice" occurs on the stitch line. If this occurs on
Topstitching, then the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Caused
by 1) thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing; or 2) cut or broken stitches
during a subsequent treatment of the finished product (i.e., stone washing).