BASICS OF WAVE
HYDRODYNAMICS
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BASIC HYDRODYNAMICS LAWS
Assumptions
1. Viscosity of the fluid is zero. Shear forces are absent.
t═ µ (du/dz)
i.e. Only normal forces exist.
And Irrotational flow exists.
2. The fluid is incompressible and the density ‘ρ’ is constant
throughout the fluid.
Continuity Eqn.: Law of conservation of mass
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CONTINUITY EQUATION
Z w+(∂w/∂z) ∂z
u u+(∂u/∂x) ∂x
dx
w
x
Consider a control volume of fluid of dimension ‘dx’
and ‘dz’ as shown in 2D flow.
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Let the dimension in the other direction be unity.
Consider only 2 dimensional flow.
The mass inflow along x direction/sec = ρ.u.dz.1
The mass outflow along x direction/sec =
ρ (u+(∂u/∂x).dx)dz.1
Therefore the net mass out flow in x direction/sec,
=(outflow-inflow)
= ρ(∂u/∂x) dx.dz
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Similarly the net mass outflow in z direction,
= ρ (∂w/∂z) dx. dz
The net mass out flow from the region,
= ρ (∂u/∂x) dx.dz + ρ (∂w/∂z) dx.dz
Continuity equation requires that, this net out flow
to be zero.
Therefore ρ(∂u/∂x)dx.dz + ρ(∂w/∂z)dx.dz=0
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Dividing by ρ.dx.dz ,we get
∂u/∂x + ∂w/∂z = 0
Which is the continuity equation for 2 dimensional flow.
Irrotational Flow
A fluid particle is said to have rotation if the particle has a
rotation about its mass centre.
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A particle is said to have zero rotation in a plane, if
average of the angular velocities along two mutually
perpendicular directions of the particle in that plane is
zero.
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Z
∂u/∂z
X
∂w/∂x
The average of the angular velocities in two mutually
perpendicular directions =1/2(∂u/∂z-∂w/∂x)
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For irrotational flow, this must be zero.
Therefore ∂u/∂z-∂w/∂x=0 ═> Vorticity =0
∂u/∂z=∂w/∂x
The concept of Velocity Potential
Let us assume the existence of velocity potential which is
ø (x,z,t)
By definition , ∂ø/∂x= u →velocity in x-direction
∂ø/∂z= w →velocity in z-direction
Since ø is a continuous function,
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i.e., ∂/∂z(∂ø/∂x)= ∂/∂x(∂ø/∂z)
since u= ∂ø/∂x & w=∂ø/∂z
∂u/∂z = ∂w/∂x, which is the condition for irrotational flow
This proves that if a velocity potential exists, then the
flow is irrotational. The converse is also true.
That is if the flow is irrotational then a velocity
potential always exists.
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Laplace’s equation
Velocity potential ø (x,z,t)
And by definition ∂ø/∂x=u
∂ø/∂z=w
we have continuity equation: ∂u/∂x +∂w/∂z=0
Substituting in terms of ø,
∂2ø/ ∂x2 +∂2ø /∂z2 = 0 which is Laplace’s equation
All the basic hydrodynamic equations have gone into Laplace’s
equation.
The solution of this equation gives us the required velocity
potential function ‘ø’. 11
Bernoulli’s Equation:- (for general unsteady flow)
Assumptions:-
a.Density is constant
b.Viscosity is Zero (flow is irrotational)
½ (u2+w2) + gz + p/ρ + ∂ø/∂t = constant
↑ ↑ ↑ ↑
convective gravity pressure local inertia
inertia term term term term
½[(∂ø/∂x)2 + (∂ø/∂z)2] + gz + p/ρ + ∂ø/∂t=0
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Wave motion Problem:-
d= still water depth
z= -d defines the sea bottom
Wave length (L): Distance between any two corresponding
points on the Successive waves (L)
Wave period (T) : The time interval required for motion to re-
occur at a given fixed point.
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L
Still Water Level
Wave ht. ‘H’
d
wave trough
sea bottom z= - d
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C- wave celerity - velocity with which the wave is propagating
C=L/T
Particle velocity in the orbit =pH/T
Boundary Conditions for wave motion problem
(1) on the sea bottom, i.e., @ z=-d
Assuming a horizontal impermeable sea bottom, there cannot
be any flow across this.
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z
z= η (x,t)
0 x
d
sea bottom
Mathematically it can be represented as the velocity normal to
the surface is zero.
w=∂ø/∂z=o
at z = -d.
On the free surface : i.e., at z=η
(a)Dynamic boundary condition
Pressure on the free surface is zero taking atmospheric
pressure as datum. 16
½[(∂ø/∂x)2+(∂ø/∂z)2] + gz + p/ρ +∂ø/∂t=0
½[(∂ø/∂x)2+(∂ø/∂z)2] + gη +∂ø/∂t=0
at z=η
(b)Kinematic Boundary Condition:
A particle on the free surface always remains on the free
surface.
To satisfy this condition the particle velocity = the normal
velocity of the free surface.
i.e. w= ∂ø/∂z = dη/dt
η=f(x,t)
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∂ø/∂z = dη/dt = ∂η/∂t * ∂t/∂t+ ∂η/∂x * ∂x/∂t
∂ø/∂z= ∂η/∂t + ∂η/∂x .∂x/∂t
at z=η
Basic hydrodynamic equation:
∂2ø/∂x2 + ∂2ø /∂z2 =0
at z=η
Boundary conditions:-
(1) on the sea bottom, i.e., @ z=-d
∂ø/∂z=0
at z=-d
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(2) Free surface condition
(a) Dynamic boundary condition
½[(∂ø/∂x)2+(∂ø/∂z)2] + gη + ∂ø/∂t=0
at z=η
(b)Kinematic Boundary condition
∂ø/∂z = ∂η/∂t + ∂η/∂x ∂x/∂t
at z=η
Difficulties of the solution
(1)The two free surface boundary conditions are non linear
and the solutions are rather difficult.
(2)The two free surface boundary conditions have to be
applied on z= η which itself is unknown.
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Small Amplitude Wave Theory or
Linear Wave Theory or Airy’s Theory
Assumptions :-
(1)The fluid is incompressible and the density ‘ρ’ is constant in
the body of the fluid.
(2)The viscosity of the fluid is zero. This results in irrotational
motion & also that the motion must repeat itself infinitely with
time.
(3)The amplitude of the wave ‘a= H/2’ is very small compared
to its wave length (a<<L). From this it follows that the velocity
of the fluid particle (=p H/T ) is small compared to the wave
celerity C=L/T. 20
(4)As a consequence of the above assumption product of
small quantities which are essentially the velocities can be
neglected as being small. That is terms such as (∂ø/∂x)2,
(∂ø/∂z)2, (∂η/∂x . ∂x/∂t) can be neglected as being small.
(5)The free surface boundary conditions which is to be
applied on z=η is applied on z=0. Since η is very small .
(6)Normal to wave surface almost coincides with z-direction
i.e wn= wz
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The Governing Equation of S A W T:
Basic hydrodynamic equation:-
∂2ø/∂x2 + ∂2ø/∂z2 = 0
Boundary conditions :-
(1) on z=-d , ∂ø/∂z =0
(2) Free surface condition:-
(a)Dynamic boundary condition
½[(∂ø/∂x)2+(∂ø/∂z)2] + gη +∂ø/∂t=0
z=η
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With a assumptions of SAWT, the terms (∂ø/∂x)2, (∂ø/∂z)2
are neglected and the boundary conditions which is to be
applied on z= η is now applied on z=0
so the above equation reduces to,
gη +∂ø/∂t=0
z=0
η= [-1/g] ∂ø/∂t
z=0
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(3)Kinematic Boundary Condition
∂ø/∂z = dη/∂t + ∂η/∂x * ∂x/∂t
at z=η
With the assumptions of SAWT the ∂η/∂x.∂x/∂t can
be neglected as small and the boundary condition is
applied on z=0 instead of z= η
The above equation reduces to
∂ø/∂z = ∂η/∂t
z=0
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