AFDE 122: INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN DRAFTING

Introduction
Pattern making is a crucial step in garment construction. It involves creating a paper or digital
template that serves as a blueprint for cutting and sewing the fabric pieces together to create a
garment.
Pattern- A pattern is a sketch or a template used to make the shape of the garment. Patterns
are structures that serve as guidelines for cutting. These are designed and evaluated to ensure
proper garment fit. It makes all of the components required to form a complete unit of
garment. It is traced on fabric for cutting and assembly to produce a garment. Patterns are
generally created on paper but can also be made on hardboard. Regardless of size or shape, a
pattern contains critical markings required to precisely sew the pattern pieces together. These
markings include: darts, seam allowances, notches, and punch holes for trims, pocket, button,
and buttonhole placement.
Pattern Making
Pattern making is a highly skilled technique that requires technical ability, sensitivity and a
practical understanding of garment construction in order to interpret a design. Pattern making
is a process of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more
human body curves.
Pattern making is the first step in designing a successful garment. A pattern’s primary
purpose is to connect design and production by creating paper templates for all garment
components to be cut and sewn together to complete a specific garment or style. “A pattern is
a flat, roughly cylindrical framework with secondary curves and bulges that interest the
pattern maker”.
Pattern maker usually generates a pattern from a two-dimensional fashion illustration or a
flat sketch with standard body measurements. The basic foundation pattern contains garment
fit and design. The pattern maker takes the design concept and creates a pattern that takes into
account the wearer's measurements and style details required in the design. The pattern is
then used to cut the fabric pieces to the right size and shape. There are several steps involved
in pattern making, including:
1. Design Concept: The designer creates a sketch or concept for the garment.
2. Measurements: The pattern maker takes accurate measurements of the person who will
wear the garment to ensure a perfect fit.
3. Block Creation: A basic block is created for each size in which the garment will be made.
This block is used as the basis for all other pattern pieces.
4. Pattern Creation/Working pattern: The pattern maker creates a pattern for each garment
piece by manipulating the basic block to create the desired shape and style.
5. Fitting: The pattern is tested by creating a sample of garment, which is then fitted on the
person who will wear it. Adjustments are made to the pattern as needed.
6. Grading: Once the pattern has been perfected, it is graded to create patterns for all the sizes
in which the garment will be made.
Overall, pattern making is an essential part of garment construction that requires technical
skill, creativity, and attention to detail.
HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING
Humans had to master the art of producing and sustaining food, clothing, and shelter in order
to survive. We got better at those tasks over time, and we started to develop standards for
what worked best, as well as instructions on how to replicate the best results. A Pattern
drafting system is nothing more than a method or plan for drawing patterns. The primary
purpose of patterns is to serve as a template for recreating a previously created and perfected
design. Earlier fit was not considered particularly important. but now, it has become more
popular as the concept of fashion evolve, as a way to create desired body shapes or make
clothing more comfortable or functional. The primary purpose of clothing was utilitarianism,
and its security to the human body was its most crucial component. A pattern drafting system
is nothing more than a method for drawing garment patterns. The primary purpose of patterns
is to serve as a template for recreating a previously created and perfected design.
The first recorded clothing patterns emerged in Spain between 1589 and 1618. During this
time, Spanish fashions dominated European clothing, and the books published at the time
provided instructions on creating clothes for men, women, clergy, and knights. Later
literature written in 1700s provided instructions on garment measurement, cutting, fit, and
construction, but they, too were written with professional tailors in mind.
There was less technical literature on home sewers accessible in the 1800s. Full-size patterns
started to appear in specialized publications and women's periodicals. This also influenced
the development of the commercial pattern sector. Compared to past clothing production,
pattern-making is much more recent.
According to Mary Kahlenberg, "Actual diagrams, pattern, and instructions for the making of
women's clothing are first appeared in the 18th century". The American pattern business was
founded in 1854, and in 1864, a tailor named Ebeneezer Butterick started selling graded
patterns. James McCall was his sole rival for the industry in 1872; he had emigrated from
Scotland in the 1870s and founded a tailor store with his wife, Belle. They provide patterns
and publish a magazine as a marketing tool for their patterns.
The garment industry became commercialized as a result of the industrial revolution and the
invention of the sewing machine. As factories arose, the demand for standard garment sizes
also arises. Over a time, a series of experiments resulted in standard-size charts. The
existence of standard measurement charts helped the clothing and apparel sector grow rapidly
DEFINITION OF TERMS
The terminologies used in the pattern making are as follows:
• Pattern Drafting: It is the process of making patterns with measurements taken from a dress
form or model to create a basic foundation pattern or design pattern.
• Apex: The point of the bust on the front bodice is known as apex. It is the pivotal place for
all darts.
• Armscye (Armhole): The pattern's rounded aperture, known as the Armscye or armhole is
where the sleeve is attached.
• Basic Slopers: Sloper is also known as Basic Block. It is the basic foundation pattern that is
used to make other style line patterns. It is a set of patterns consisting of five basic patterns as
the basic front bodice, basic back bodice, basic skirt front, basic skirt back and sleeve.
• Darts: Darts are a technique to give shape to the garment. It is a cone shaped piece or fold
of fabric that is sewn together, tapering to a point, to fit the body curves.
• Draping: Draping is a garment creating technique in which fabric is strategically placed a
dress form or a live model, to create a threedimensional garment or design. The fabric is
manipulated by folding, tucking, pleating, and pinning it to the form to achieve the desired
shape and silhouette.
• Ease: Ease is the excess fabric built into a garment for the movement of the wearer.
• Drape: The manner which the fabric hangs or falls in easy, graceful folds is called drape.
• Drafting: Drafting is an outline of a pattern made on paper using body measurements.
• Seam: It is the joining line where the parts of the material are stitched together.
• Stitch: Stitch is a single turn and loop of yarn and thread on the seam to join the fabric and
material.
• Seam Allowance: The amount of fabric from the cut edge to the seam line is called as seam
allowance.
• Marker or Layout: A diagram showing the efficient arrangement or placement of the pattern
pieces on the fabric.
• Selvedge: An edge of the fabric prevents it from fraying.
• Grain: Grain is the direction of threads in a woven fabric. The lengthwise grain runs parallel
to the selvedge are known as warp, whereas crosswise grain runs selvedge to selvedge are
known as weft.
• Notch: A small V-shaped mark or cut on the pattern used to indicate position of darts,
seams, zipper length, pocket position, style lines and seam allowances of the pattern pieces.
• Tuck: Tucks are the decorative structure on the garment, which is made of a folded fabric of
various width or height, top-stitched to create a pleat.
• Yoke: A yoke is a part of the garment that can be functional or decorative. It is a focal point
of the garment.
• Muslin: It is a loosely woven fabric without any treatment. It is known as greige fabric,
which is used for making first samples. It may vary in color and is also available in various
weights.
• Bias: When a fabric makes an angle of 45ᵒ across, the lengthwise grain runs parallel to the
selvedge, whereas the crosswise grain runs selvedge to selvedge.
• Dress Form: A three-dimensional shape of the human body or torso used to fit clothes being
sewed.
• Silhouette: The shape or outline of a garment is known as a Silhouette.
• Rip: To fray or pull away the warp or weft threads at raw edge of the material is termed a
rip or ravel.
• Seam Allowances: The seam allowance required for each seam line may vary depending on
the location and end purpose. Generally, these are the measurements followed - ¼" for sharp
curves ½" for the neckline, armhole, waistline, and style line. 1" for side seam, center line,
shoulder, and plackets. 2" for the straight hemline.
• Trueing: Correcting the draft pattern to align the side seams and smoothen the curves is
known as Trueing.
• Blending: It is the process of smoothing shapes and lines of patterns.
• Grading: The process of increasing and decreasing the standard pattern according to the
size is known as the grading technique.
• Fit: Fit is referred as the comfort of the garment in the three-dimensional human body.
• Alteration: Adjusting standard pattern according to the specific body shape is known as
alteration.
The pattern maker should know and understand terminology to communicate effectively in
the workroom and minimize errors due to misunderstanding. Shapes and lines cannot be
drawn freehand. The actual outline of the pattern is the sewing line and must be precisely
drawn. The seam allowances are then added to the pattern’s outline, because they allow fabric
to be sewn together without sitting line being too close to the edge of the fabric.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT USED FOR PATTERN DRAFTING
Professional patterns must be created using specific tools. To work efficiently, the
patternmakers must have the proper knowledge of tools and supplies to use the tools
appropriately for the many pattern shapes and without distorting the pattern. The professional
patternmaker arrives on the job with all tools required for patternmaking.
The Pattern making tools are discussed below:
1. Peral Pins/Straight Pins: Silk satin straight pins or pearl pins are used for pinning
patterns to the pattern table and patterns together as well. It can also be used for
pinning patterns or fabric for fitting on dress forms.

2. Straight Pin Holder: It is known as a Pincushion or magnetic holder for the wrist or
table, which helps hold the pins handy while working on patterns.
3. Scissors: Two types of scissors are needed in pattern making. One is for cutting paper
which is known as paper scissors and another one for cutting fabric, known as fabric
scissors. The paper scissor should be 81/2" to 9" long, whereas 8 1/2" to 11" for
fabric. They should not be used interchangeably because the paper will dull the fabric
scissor.
4. Measuring Tape: Measuring tape is a narrow tape metal-tipped. It is usually 60 inches
long and made up of fabric or plastic. It is used to measure the size of the pattern.
5. Pencil: Black lead pencil numbers 2 and 3 are used for plotting and tracing the
patterns. Mechanical pencil with interchangeable leads and a sharpener. Colored
pencils like red and blue can also be used to identify patterns.
6. Straight Rulers: It is best for marking or taking a straight lines or any measurement in
the pattern
7. L- Scale: It is also called as Tri-scale or Tailor’s square. It is made of wood or steel. It
is a 24 × 14-inch metal ruler with two arms forming a 90o angle. It is used for drafting
perpendicular lines.

8. Hip Curve Ruler: Hip curve ruler shapes and curves hiplines on skirts and blends
hems. It has one curved end and one straight end. It is usually 24" in length.

9. French Curve: French curve is used for blending shapes of necklines, armholes and
also shaping waistlines for style lines. It is available in various sizes and shapes.

10. Scotch Tape: It is used to join or mend paper patterns.

 11. Tracing Wheel: It is a seven inches long-handled tool with a metal wheel at one end.
This is used to transfer pattern shapes onto a paper or muslin.

12. Notcher: Notcher indicates seam allowance, center line, dart leg and another specific
point in the pattern.

13. Tailors chalk: It is used for marking seams and style lines. These are available in clay,
chalk, chalk wheel, or chalk marking pencils.
14. Fabric Marking Pen/Textile Liner: The liners and pen are used for marking on fabric.
The marks usually fade or wash away during laundry.
15. Eraser: Any good quality eraser can be used which does not leave marks on paper.
16. Pattern Paper: Various papers are used for pattern making. It varies in weight;
lightweight paper is used to develop the first pattern and then grading is done on
heavyweight paper.
17. Carbon Paper: It is used to transfer completed patterns to fabric or muslin.
18. Grading Ruler: The ruler which use specifically for the grading of pattern.
ADVANTAGES OF PATTERN DRAFTING
Pattern drafting offers several advantages, including:
1. The ability to create custom-fitted garments,
2. Precise designs,
3. Consistent replication of styles,
4. Creative flexibility to modify designs,
5. Efficient use of fabric,
6. Improved workflow, and
7. The capability to scale patterns to different sizes, making it a valuable skill for fashion
designers and tailors.
DISADVANTAGES OF PATTERN DRAFTING
The main disadvantages of pattern drafting include:
1. Difficulty visualizing the final garment appearance without sewing it up,
2. Requiring precise measurements and calculations which can be time-consuming,
3. Potential for significant errors if not done accurately,
4. Limited ability to see drape and fabric flow on the body without draping, and
 5. The need for strong technical skills to create complex designs; making it challenging
for beginners to master effectively.
BODY MEASUREMENTS
Every human is different in their physique and body measurement. Measuring the human
body is a procedure to create a garment to fit the body. The fit of the garment is directly
dependent on the measurement taken. The accurate measurement gives a good fit to the
wearer. While taking body measurements, considered some points such as do not pull or fold
measuring tape, and put two fingers inside the tape while taking measurement for ease in the
garment. The important measurement taken for the pattern making is given below:

Bust or Chest: Bust or Chest measurement is very important for making the upper torso of the
garment like shirts, blouses etc.
Waist: The waist is the narrowest part of the body which is essential for making all garments
that cover the waist, like shirts, blouses, jackets, kurtas, kameez, etc. The natural waist of the
body can be taken by bending the body at the side, the fold in the body is known as the
natural waist.
Hip: Hip measurement is essential for the lower part of the garment like trousers, pants, skirts
etc.
Neck: Measurement of the neck is taken for making collars and necklines.
Shoulder: Shoulder measurement is taken in two different ways, first is the length of the
shoulder, and another one is cross back.
Armhole: Measurement of the armhole is taken for making sleeves. There are some other
measurements that are used while pattern making. The measurement and their symbols are
given below:
Measurement Terminology
1. Centre front neck
2. Centre front waist centre back waist
3. Bust points
4. Centre front bust level (between bust points)
5. Side front (princess) Side back (princess)
6. Mid-armhole front Mid-armhole back
7. Shoulder tip
8. Shoulder at neck (shoulder/neck)
9. Armhole ridge or roll line
10. Plate screw
11. Armhole plate

Symbol Key
CF - Center front
CB - Center back
BP- Bust point
SS - Side seam
SW - Side waist
SH - Shoulder
HBL-Horizontal balance line
SH-TIP - Shoulder tip

Taking Body Measurements:

Circumference/girth Measurement of the Body:
1) Bust: Measure across the fullest part of the bust points to a level just below the
shoulder blades at the back.
2) Waist: Measure snugly round waist and keep measuring tape parallel to the floor.
3) Abdomen: Measure three inches below the waist, around the abdomen.
4) Hip: Measure the widest area of the bottom of the body with tape parallel to the floor.
Also, pin to mark hip level at the center front, referred to as X-point.
5) Centre Length: Measure down from neck to waistline at the center.
6) Full Length: Measure the waist (at the highest point of the shoulder) to the waist over
the fullest part of the bust, parallel with center lines.
 7) Shoulder Slope: Measure the center line at the waist to the shoulder tip over the
fullest part of the bust. Place the metal tip of the measuring tape at the corner of the
highest shoulder/neck (8) to the bottom of the waist band at the side seam and record.
8) Bust depth: Shoulder tip to the bust point.
9) Bust Span: Place tape across bust points; divide in half for measurement.
10) Side length: Pin mark below armplate at side seam to side waist.
11) Back Neck: Centre back neck to shoulder at the neck.
12) Shoulder Length: Shoulder tip to the neck.
13) Across Shoulder: Shoulder tip to center front neck.
14) Across Chest: Centre front to 1 inch above mid-armhole (pinhead mark).
15) Bust Arc: Centre front, over bust point, ending 2 inches below armplate at side seam.
16) Back Arc: Centre back to the bottom of the armplate.
17) Waist Arc: Centre front waist to side waist seam.
18) Dart Placement: Centre front/ back to side front/back (princess line).
19) Abdomen Arc: Starting 3 inches down from the waist and measure centre front/ back
to side front / back,
20) Hip Arc: At the fullest hip point measure, centre back to side back. 24) Crotch Depth:
Measured after sitting on the stool measured from side waist to stool. 25) Hip Depth:
Measure waist to fullest hip point measure vertically
OTHER METHODS OF OBTAINING PATTERNS
Each pattern-making method has its own set of benefits, and when combined, they can speed
up the completion of each garment. All completed patterns must be cut in muslin and draped
on a dress form to be checked for accuracy, proportion, shape, fit, grain line and balance,
regardless of the method of pattern development used. The pattern is then transferred to an
oak tag or brown paper and all markings are established once all corrections have been made.
Pattern making involves three methods:
1. Drafting
2. Draping
3. Flat Pattern making
4. Commercial paper pattern – bought and manipulated to desired styles and designs
5. Copying
Drafting
Drafting method is plotted by direct measurement of the individual. It is also known as the
tailor’s method, in which measurements are directly put into the paper to plot a basic pattern.
Precision measurements, accuracy, and step-bystep plotting of the draft are all essential
aspects of the drafting process. After that, the final pattern is cut out of muslin and tested on a
form
Draping/Three-Dimensional Design
Draping is the method of making a three dimensional pattern of muslin on a dress form which
allows for creating unique designs. The design is immediately visible on the dress form,
allowing observing the new style as it develops during the draping process. Draping explains
determining whether a garment is properly draped or unbalanced.
Draping is distinct from pattern-making; it is a more creative three dimensional method of
pattern creation. Draping enables more organic work with the body and any irregularities in
shape or form, whereas pattern making requires measurements and pattern modifications.
Draping is now considered an essential process because it allows fashion designers to
experiment with fabric and use their imagination to see where darts, tucks, and other design
elements fit better and how they behave on the body.
In today's world, most women prefer to dress in draped garments. Fashion draping is
common in theatrical costumes, films, and other media. Fashion technocrats often use
draping techniques to create evening, stage, and party-wear garments. A designer can use this
method to create various designs and variations and new innovative designs with the fabric
falls to begin the garment manufacturing process.
Flat Pattern Making
Flat pattern methods allow designers to create new designs for changing fashion trends. It is
also known as Two-Dimensional Pattern Design. Most garment patterns in the apparel
industry are created by flat pattern making with standard sizes. The basic principles of this
method are to create 2D pattern that can be used to cut and sew a 3D garment. The flat
pattern method can develop different styles and designs with basic slopers. A sloper is the
starting point for flat pattern making. It is a straight forward pattern that fits the body with
just the right amount of ease for movement and comfort.
Women's clothing comprises of five basic pattern pieces: basic bodice front and back, basic
skirt front and back and sleeve pattern. A basic sloper has no seam allowances, making it
easier to manipulate into different styles as women's styles frequently change as fashion does.
A basic pattern is a structure of lines representing body measurements and is the first step in
pattern-making. Whereas in the working pattern, the basic style lines and design features are
marked. On the other hand, the production pattern and the final pattern are used to cut the
fabric. Seam allowances and pattern information must be added to a working pattern before it
can be converted to a final pattern.
Commercial paper patterns
Commercial paper patterns are pre-made templates used in garment construction to guide
fabric cutting and sewing. They provide accurate measurements and designs, making it easier
for individuals and manufacturers to create well-fitting clothing. These patterns are available
in various sizes, styles, and formats to suit different sewing projects.
Copying
Copying existing garments is a popular method of making patterns, allowing designers, home
sewers, and manufacturers to recreate favorite clothing items without deconstructing them.
This technique is useful for replicating well-fitting garments, making alterations, or
developing new designs based on existing ones.
Principle of Flat pattern making: Knowledge of principles of flat pattern making is
necessary for making stylized designs with flat pattern through alteration. Any pattern can be
created and modified by the basic principle of flat pattern making such as:
Dart
Darts are a dressmaker’s punctuation marks. It is an essential part of garment construction.
Darts are folds and sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment, especially
for a woman’s bust. Darts help in shaping the fabric to fit the body and thus provide comfort
to the wearer. They provide fullness to natural body curves. Darts are very rarely used for
decorative purposes like providing a design line. The fitting, marking, stitching and pressing
of darts should be done accurately.
Dart Manipulation: It is the process of creating and shaping darts in fabric to achieve a
desired fit or silhouette. There are many rules for creating, combining and dividing as well as
transferring darts at different places on a pattern piece to achieve desired designs. Dart can be
shifted to a new place by two methods such as:

Different dart positions

a) Slash and Spread Method: The slash and spread method is a pattern manipulation
technique used in sewing to add fullness to a garment pattern. This method involves making a
series of cuts, or slashes, in the pattern and then spreading the pieces apart to create additional
width or volume.
The process:
• Start with the original pattern piece that you want to add fullness to.
• Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline, from the hemline to the waistline, or wherever
you want to add fullness.
• Make parallel cuts along the line, leaving a small hinge of paper at the top of each cut.
• Spread the cut pieces apart by the desired amount, being careful to keep the hinge intact.
• Fill in the gaps with paper and tape the pieces in place.
• Smooth out the lines and edges of the pattern piece.
• Make any necessary adjustments to the seams, darts, or other details of the pattern piece to
ensure that it still fits properly.
The slash and spread method is often used to add fullness to skirts, sleeves, and other parts of
a garment. It can also be used to create a more flared or A-line silhouette.

ADDING FULLNESS BY SLASHING AND SPREADING

"Adding fullness by slashing and spreading" refers to a patternmaking technique where you
cut strategic lines (slashes) on a paper pattern, then spread the pieces apart to create extra
volume or fullness in a specific area of a garment, like a skirt, sleeve, or dress; essentially
manipulating the pattern to add more fabric where needed.
How?

1. Decide where you want to add fullness. Before slashing the pattern add the notches.
 2. Cut up the front waist dart and the side seam dart.

3. Close the waist dart, and the side seam dart opens. (Remember not to cut right
through; keep a small amount of paper attached to act as a hinge

To continue this exercise, trace off the front bodice block onto paper. Draw in the lines to the
bust point as shown on the diagram. To manipulate the darts, simply slash to the apex each
time and then close and open the darts in different locations.
b) Pivot Method: The pivot method is another pattern manipulation technique used in sewing
to add fullness to a garment pattern. It involves rotating a section of the pattern around a pivot
point to create additional width or volume.
The process:
• Start with the original pattern piece that you want to add fullness to.
• Choose a pivot point, which is typically located at the hemline, waistline, or bust line,
depending on the area of the pattern you want to manipulate.
• Draw a line from the pivot point to the edge of the pattern, perpendicular to the grain line.
• Cut along the line, stopping at the pivot point.
• Rotate the cut section around the pivot point, spreading it apart to create additional width or
volume.
• Fill in any gaps with paper and tape the pieces in place.
• Smooth out the lines and edges of the pattern piece.
• Make any necessary adjustments to the seams, darts, or other details of the pattern piece to
ensure that it still fits properly.
The pivot method can be used to add fullness to sleeves, skirts, and other parts of a garment.
It is often used in combination with the slash and spread method to achieve a desired
silhouette