Tex 305

Fabric Manufacturing-II
Weft knitting portion

Prepared by
Sheikh Nazmul Hoque
Assistant Professor
DTE, AUST
 Few introductory terms
• Knitting: Knitting is a process of forming fabric by intermeshing of loops
using a single set of yarn.

• Weft Knitting: Weft knitting is a method of forming a fabric by knitting in

which the loops are made in horizontal way from a single yarn and
intermeshing of loops takes place on a course-wise basis.

• Warp Knitting: Warp Knitting is a method of forming a fabric by knitting

in which the loops are made in a vertical way along the length of the fabric
from each yarn and intermeshing of loops takes place on a wale-wise basis.
Few introductory terms (contd.)

Weft Knitting Warp Knitting

 Differences between Warp and Weft knitting
Warp Knitting Weft Knitting

1. Loop formation in the fabric takes place wale

1. Loop formation takes place course wise.
wise.
2. Every needle is required to have individual
2. A single yarn is sufficient for all the needles.
yarn feed.
3. Yarns are supplied from a beam in the 3. Yarns are supplied from cones in the
machine. machine.
4. Yarns produced from synthetic fibre are 4. Yarns produced from natural fibre are mostly
mostly used. used.
5. Yarn lubrication is done in the form of 5. Yarn lubrication is done in the form of
antistatic oiling. waxing.
Differences between Warp and Weft knitting (contd.)
Differences between Warp and Weft knitting (contd.)
 Differences between Warp and Weft knitting (contd.)

Warp Knitting Weft Knitting

6. Knitting elements of the machine act unitely. 6. Knitting elements act independently.

7. All the loops of a course are formed exactly at 7. The loops of a course are formed
the same time. sequentially.

8. Design change process of the machine is less 8. Design change process of the machine is
time consuming. more time consuming.

9. Latch, bearded or compound needles are used 9. Usually latch needles are used on weft
in warp knitting machine. knitting machines.
Differences between Warp and Weft knitting (contd.)
Differences between Warp and Weft knitting (contd.)
 Differences between Warp and Weft knitting (contd.)

Latch needle Latch needle DE Latch needle Latch needle for Bearded Needle Compound Needle
for CKM for FKM for PKM Warp KM for Warp KM for Warp KM
 Differences between Warp and Weft knitting (contd.)
Warp Knitting Weft Knitting

10. Both Fabrics and machines are expensive. 10. These are cheaper than warp knitting.

11. More stable fabric dimensionally. 11. Less stable.

12. The fabric is more suitable for cutting and

12. Less suitable.
sewing.
13. Fabrics have unlimited application, such as
inner and outer wears, industrial, technical, and 13. Limited application, mostly apparel.
domestic.
 Weft knit garments manufacturing process

The manufacturing process of knitted garments can be

divided in four different production methods:

• Cut & sew

• Fully fashion / shaping
• Integral knitting
• Complete garment
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Cut & sew

 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Cut & sew

• Cut & sew is the conventional and most common method for
production of knitted garments.
• Panels for front, back and sleeves are knitted in a
rectangular/tubular form and then cut in the right form in the
cutting process.
• After the cutting process, the panels are sewn together with
separately knitted trimmings and pockets to complete the
garment.
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Cut & sew (contd.)

• Both cutting and sewing are post-knit processes, separated
from the knitting machine.
• With cut & sew, up to 30% of the original fabric may go to
waste as cut-loss.
• The advantage with this type of production is that it could be
done on all circular/flat knitting machines, including old
models without computer processing systems.
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Cut & sew (contd.)

• The disadvantages is the labour intensive post-knitting
processes such as cutting and sewing, which makes this
production suitable in countries with low labour costs.
• Another disadvantage is material waste in the cutting
process.
• A high degree of the knitted material is cut-loss, even when
the right form of the panels is formed in the cutting machine.
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Fully fashion
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Fully fashion
• Fully fashion or shaping is a method of knitting production where
the front, back and sleeve pieces are knitted in the right shape directly
in the knitting machine.
• The cutting process is at a minimum or totally eliminated, but some
post-knit cutting can still be necessary.
• Trimmings and pockets are knitted separately and sewn/linked
together with the rest of the knitted pieces to complete the garment.
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Fully fashion (contd.)

• The benefit of this production method compared with the cut & sew
method is that cutting is eliminated or at a minimum, and that the
material consumption is much lower due to lower cut-loss.
• Both material and labour costs are saved in comparison to the cut &
sew production method.
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Integral knitting
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Integral knitting
• Integral knitting means that trimmings, pockets, buttonholes and
other accessories are directly knitted in the fully fashion produced
panels.

• With this technique there are fewer post-knit processes such as

cutting and sewing.
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Integral knitting (contd.)

• Compared with cut & sew and fully fashion production methods, savings
can be obtained in both the cutting and sewing post-knit processes.

• In addition the quality and outlook of the ready garment can be improved
by this method of integrating accessories in the panels directly in the
knitting process.

• Also, this production method reduces the cut-loss to a minimum.

 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Complete garment
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Complete garment
• In complete garment production the entire garment is ready
made directly in the flat knitting machine with no post-knit
processes such as cutting and sewing.
• The different parts of the garment are shaped and knitted
together with trimmings, pockets and other accessories.
• The advantages of this technique are many, including: no
waste of material as cut-loss in the cutting process; and no
sewing or cutting as expensive post-knit processes.
 Knit garments manufacturing process (contd.)

Complete garment (contd.)

• All yarn in the entire garment comes from the same yarn
cones, which enables higher quality.
• Due to the seamless technology the garment could attain a
perfect fit and be comfortable to wear.
• This technology makes it possible to shorten the lead time
and produce “on-demand knitting”, which could shorten
production lead time considerably.
Types of weft Knitting machine

 Fabric machine / Fabric length machine

 Garment length machine

Features of Fabric machine
 Features of Fabric machine

 Large diameter, circular, latch needle machine knit fabric at

high speed.

 The fabric is manually cut away from the machine, usually in

roll form, after a convenient length has been knitted.

 Most fabric is knitted on circular machines, either single

cylinder (Single jersey) or “Dial and cylinder” (Double
jersey).
 Features of Fabric machine (contd.)

 Unless used in tubular body width, the fabric requires

splitting into open width.

 Generally cam settings and needle set outs are not

altered during the knitting of the fabric.

 The productivity, versatility and patterning facilities of

fabric machines vary considerably.
Features of Fabric machine (contd.)

Tubular Open width

Features of Fabric machine (contd.)

Enantiomorphism in garment piece

Auto Striper/ Engineering Stripe Machine

Number of active feeders = Maximum number of courses in a striped repeat

Number of active feeders < Maximum number of courses in a striped repeat

Auto Striper / Engineering Stripe Machine

Auto Striper/ Engineering Stripe Machine
Features of Garment length machine
 Features of Garment length machine

 It includes straight bar frames, and Circular garment machine.

 These machines are coarser gauge machines than fabric machines.

 They produce both outerwear, and innerwear.

 Garments may be knitted in either tubular or open width form; in

the later case, more than one garment panel may be knitted
simultaneously across the knitting bed.
 Features of Garment length machine (contd.)

 They have the garment sequence control with the timing / counting
device, collectively termed as, “The machine control”.

 It automatically initiates any alteration to the other facilities on the

machine, needed to knit garment length construction sequence
instead of continuous fabric.

 The machine control may have to initiate correctly timed changes in

some or all the followings- Cam settings, needle set outs, feeder and
machine speed.
Features of Garment length machine (contd.)
 Features of Garment length machine (contd.)

It is able to overwrite and cancel the effect of the patterning

mechanism in rib borders and be easily adjustable, for different
garments size.

The fabric take down mechanism is adaptable with variable rates of

production during the knitting sequence, and on some machines be
able to assist both in the setting up on empty needles and take away
of separate garments or pieces on completion of the sequence.

The fabric take down mechanism is more sophisticated than for

continuous fabric knitting.
 Basic Weft Knitted Structures

 Single jersey

 Rib

 Interlock Double Jersey

 Purl
Basic Weft Knitted Structures

Single Jersey Rib

Interlock Purl
Basic Weft Knitted Structures

Single Jersey Rib

Interlock Purl
 Features of Rib Knitting

 Machine has two beds – may be flat or circular with two

sets of needles and cam systems – one in each bed.

 Needles in the two beds are not face to face but needles in
one bed are in between the needles of the other bed so that
they do not touch while raised for clearing.

 Rib fabrics are double-faced structures with face loops and

back loops are visible on both the sides of the fabric, and
fabric has identical appearance in face and back.
 Features of Rib Knitting (contd.)

 Fabric surface is vertically corrugated or ribbed and fabric is

much thicker, generally double, than single jersey fabric.

 Fabric has good extensibility in length direction, but the

width-wise extensibility and the recovery are much higher
than single jersey fabric which makes it suitable for neck
collar, hand cuff, waist band etc.

 Fabric does not curl at the free edges and can easily be
unroved from the end last knitted.
 Features of Interlock Knitting
 Machine has two beds and generally of circular type.

 There are two sub sets of needles in each bed - known as

short needles and long needles, respectively.

 Two sets of cam system, i.e. cam path in each bed

accommodate short and long needles of the corresponding
beds.

 Needles in two beds face each other – short needles in one

bed face the long needles in the other bed and vice versa.
 Features of Interlock Knitting (contd.)
 Short needles in one bed make loops in conjunction with short
needles in the other bed, similarly long needles in one bed make loops
in conjunction with long needles in the other bed.

 Separate yarns are to be supplied to the short needles and

long needles for loop formation through separate feeders.

 Each interlock course is composed of two rib courses and

minimum two yarns are needed to produce a fabric.
 Features of Interlock Knitting (contd.)
 Fabric has double faced as well as very stable structure and
is equally thicker to rib but much more compact.

 Fabric neither curls nor ladder and its surface is smooth.

 Fabrics are dimensional stable, heavy and costly.

 Machine is complicated and costly.

 Features of Purl Knitting
 Machine has two beds which may be flat or circular.

 There is only one set of needles which change the bed in

alternative knitting cycle.

 Needles are of special type; generally double ended latch

needles are used.

 Needles are shifted from one bed to another bed with the
help of sliders and two sliders are needed for each needle.
 Features of Purl Knitting (contd.)
 Same needle makes face loop in one bed and back loop in
other bed.

 Alternative courses are made of all face loops and all back
loops. As a result each wale is made of face loop and back
loop in alternative order.

 Fabric has horizontal corrugation or rib appearance on the

surfaces.

 Fabric has very high extensibility in length direction,

making it suitable for kids wear.
 Features of Purl Knitting (contd.)

 Fabric is reversible in appearance and has soft handle.

 Fabric does not curl at the edges because of alternate

face and back loop courses.
 Held loop

A held loop is an old loop that is retained by the needle and is not
released and knocked-over until the next, or a later, yarn is fed.
 Characteristics of Held loop

Held loops are obtained by changing some of the steps in the cycle of
loop formation.

 It can only be retained by a needle for a limited number of knitting

cycles before it is cast-off.

 The limbs of the held loop extend from its base to where its head
finally intermeshed a number of courses higher in the structure.
 Float / Miss / Welt stitch

A float stitch is composed of a held loop; one or more float loops, and
knitted loops. It is produced when a needle fails to receive the new
yarn, holding its old loop.
 Characteristics of Float / Miss / Welt stitch

The float loop is formed at the back of the needle and to the reverse
side of the resultant stitch.
The float is extended from the base of one knitted or tucked loop to
the next.

A single float stitch has the appearance of a U-shape on the reverse of

the stitch.

Structures incorporating float stitches tend to exhibit faint horizontal

lines.
Needle position
 Characteristics of Float / Miss / Welt stitch (contd.)

Fabric having float stitches is narrower and lighter.

Float stitch reduces width-wise extensibility, and

improves fabric stability.

A floating thread is useful for hiding any unwanted

colored yarn.
 Tuck stitch
A tuck stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more tuck loops, and
knitted loops. While tuck loop is formed, the needle receives the new
yarn, holding its old loop. The new loop becomes tuck loop because it is
not intermeshed through the old loop but is tucked in behind it on the
reverse side of the stitch.
 Characteristics of Tuck stitch

Tuck loops can be opened outwards towards the two adjoining needle
loops formed in the same course.

It assumes an inverted V or U-shaped configuration.

Fabric having tuck stitches is wider and thicker.

Tuck stitch structures show a faint diagonal line effect on their

surface.

Tuck stitch is identified as its head to be looked like as hump shape.

Loop formation process of tuck stitch with latch needle
 Loop formation process of tuck stitch with latch needle

• In figure 1: The needle is at the rest position after completing a knock-over

in the previous knitting cycle. The sinker is at backward position and the loops
are in the hook.
• In figure 2: The sinker comes forward as the needle starts to rise up. The
loops are not cleared and stay on the latch due to the presence of a tuck cam.
 Loop formation process of tuck stitch with latch needle

• In figure 3: The sinker goes back as the needle continues to slide through the tuck
cam. A new yarn (1) is fed and caught by the needle. The needle reaches the lowest
position having both the new yarn (1) and the loops in its hook.
• In figure 4: The sinker comes forward again as the needle starts to rise up. The
loops are cleared to the stem due to the presence of a knit cam.
 Loop formation process of tuck stitch with latch needle

• In figure 5: The sinker goes back as the needle starts to go down. Another new yarn
(2) is fed and caught by the needle. As the needle goes further down, both the new
yarn (1) and the loops push the latch up to be closed trapping the new yarn (2) in the
hook.
• In figure 6: The needle reaches the lowest position. Both the new yarn (1) and the
loops are knocked over the new yarn (2) and a tuck loop is formed.
Loop formation process of miss/float stitch with latch needle
 Loop formation process of miss/float stitch with latch needle

• In figure 1: The needle is at the rest position after completing a knock-

over in the previous knitting cycle. The sinker is at backward position
and the loops are in the hook.
• In figure 2: The sinker comes forward as the needle is supposed to rise
up. But it cannot do so due to the presence of a miss cam.
 Loop formation process of miss/float stitch with latch needle

• In figure 3: The sinker goes back as the needle continues to slide

through the miss cam. A new yarn (1) is fed and but is not caught by the
needle due to the presence of miss cam.
• In figure 4: The sinker comes forward again as the needle starts to rise
up. The loops are cleared to the stem due to the presence of a knit cam.
 Loop formation process of miss/float stitch with latch needle

• In figure 5: The sinker goes back as the needle starts to go down. Another new
yarn (2) is fed and caught by the needle. As the needle goes further down, the
loops push the latch up to be closed trapping the new yarn (2) in the hook.
• In figure 6: The needle reaches the lowest position. The loops are knocked over
the new yarn (2) and a miss loop appears at the reverse side of the stitch.
 Mathematical problem in weft knitting

Problem 1:
A circular single jersey knitting machine of 28G &
30ʺ has 90 feeders. It produces plain jersey structure
using 34 Ne yarn with a stitch length of 2.7 mm. If
the cylinder of the machine is revolved at 28 rpm,
calculate the production in Kg per shift considering
78% efficiency.
A CKM of 28G & 30ʺ with 90 feeders produces P/J fabric using 34 Ne yarn with
an SL of 2.7 mm. If the cylinder is revolved at 28 rpm, calculate the production in
Kg per shift considering 78% efficiency.

Solution:
Number of needles = π× Cylinder diameter× Machine gauge
= π×30×28 = 2638.94 ≈ 2639

Course length = Stitch length × Number of needles

= Stitch length × Number of loops in a course
= 2.7mm × 2639 = 7125.3mm
A CKM of 28G & 30ʺ with 90 feeders produces P/J fabric using 34 Ne
yarn with an SL of 2.7 mm. If the cylinder is revolved at 28 rpm,
calculate the production in Kg per shift considering 78% efficiency.

Solution:
Number of courses produced per shift (8 hours)
= 90 × 28 × 60 × 8 = 12,09,600
Total length of yarn consumed per shift
= 7125.3mm × 12,09,600
= 8,618,762,880 mm = 339,321,373.23ʺ = 9,425,593.7 yards
 A CKM of 28G & 30ʺ with 90 feeders produces P/J fabric using 34 Ne
yarn with an SL of 2.7 mm. If the cylinder is revolved at 28 rpm,
calculate the production in Kg per shift considering 78% efficiency.

•
A CKM of 28G & 30ʺ with 90 feeders produces P/J fabric using 34 Ne
yarn with an SL of 2.7 mm. If the cylinder is revolved at 28 rpm,
calculate the production in Kg per shift considering 78% efficiency.

•
A CKM of 28G & 30ʺ with 90 feeders produces P/J fabric using 34 Ne
yarn with an SL of 2.7 mm. If the cylinder is revolved at 28 rpm,
calculate the production in Kg per shift considering 78% efficiency.

•
A CKM of 28G & 30ʺ with 90 feeders produces S. Lacoste fabric using 34 Ne
yarn with an SL of 2.7 mm. If the cylinder is revolved at 28 rpm, calculate the
production in Kg per shift considering 78% efficiency.

Single lacoste
kk 5444
kt 4454
kk Cam arrangement

tk
Notation diagram
 A CKM of 28G & 30ʺ with 90 feeders produces D. Lacoste fabric using 34 Ne
yarn with an SL of 2.7 mm. If the cylinder is revolved at 28 rpm, calculate the
production in Kg per shift considering 78% efficiency.

Double lacoste

kk 554444
kt 444554
kt Cam arrangement
kk
tk
tk
Notation diagram
 Mathematical problem in weft knitting (contd.)

Problem 2:
A single jersey fabric has WPI =34, CPI = 42 and a stitch
length of 2.83 mm. If the fabric is knitted with 28 Ne cotton
yarn, calculate the GSM of the fabric.
A S/J fabric has WPI =34, CPI = 42 and an SL of 2.83 mm which is
knitted with 28 Ne cotton yarn, calculate the GSM of the fabric.
A S/J fabric has WPI =34, CPI = 42 and an SL of 2.83 mm which is knitted
with 28 Ne cotton yarn, calculate the GSM of the fabric.

Solution:
Number of loops in 1m width = 34 × 39.37
Number of loops in 1m length = 42 × 39.37
Number of loops in 1 sq. meter area of fabric
= (Number of loops in 1m width) × (Number of loops in 1m length)
= (34 × 39.37) × (42 × 39.37)
= 22,13,395.57 ≈ 22,13,396
 A S/J fabric has WPI =34, CPI = 42 and an SL of 2.83 mm which is
knitted with 28 Ne cotton yarn, calculate the GSM of the fabric.

Number of loops in 1sq.metre ×SL (mm) × 453.6

GSM =
10 × 2.54 × 36 × Yarn count Ne × 840

2213396 × 2.83 × 453.6

=
10 × 2.54 × 36 × 28 × 840

= 132.1
A S/J fabric has WPI =34, CPI = 42 and an SL of 2.83 mm which is
knitted with 28 Ne cotton yarn, calculate the oz/yd2 of the fabric.
A S/J fabric has WPI =34, CPI = 42 and an SL of 2.83 mm which is knitted
with 28 Ne cotton yarn, calculate the oz/yd2 of the fabric.

Solution:
Number of loops in 1yd width = 34 × 36
Number of loops in 1yd length = 42 × 36
Number of loops in 1 sq. yd area of fabric
= (Number of loops in 1m width) × (Number of loops in 1m length)
= (34 × 36) × (42 × 36)
= 18,50,688
 A S/J fabric has WPI =34, CPI = 42 and an SL of 2.83 mm which is
knitted with 28 Ne cotton yarn, calculate the oz/yd2 of the fabric.

Number of loops in 1sq.yd ×SL (mm) ×16

oz/yd2 =
10 × 2.54 × 36 × Yarn count Ne × 840

18,50,688 × 2.83 ×16

= 10 × 2.54 × 36 × 28 × 840

= 3.9
 Mathematical problem in weft knitting (contd.)

Problem 3:
A plain jersey fabric, produced by a circular knitting machine,
has WPI= 32 and CPI= 44. The machine has 90 feeders and
1692 needles. The cylinder is revolved at 29 rpm. If the weight
of the cut fabric by a GSM cutter is 1.74 gm, then calculate the
production of the machine in Kg per hour.
A P/J fabric, produced by CKM, has WPI= 32 and CPI= 44. The machine has
90 feeders and 1692 needles. The cylinder is revolved at 29 rpm. If the weight
of the cut fabric by a GSM cutter is 1.74 gm, then calculate the production of
the machine in Kg per hour.

GSM cutter (cut area of the fabric will be 100 square cm)
A P/J fabric, produced by CKM, has WPI= 32 and CPI= 44. The
machine has 90 feeders and 1692 needles. The cylinder is revolved at
29 rpm. If the weight of the cut fabric by a GSM cutter is 1.74 gm, then
calculate the production of the machine in Kg per hour.
Solution:
No. of needles 1692
Fabric width = = = 52.88ʺ
WPI 32
No. of feeders × Cylinder rpm × 60
Fabric length =
CPI
90 × 29 × 60
= = 3559.09ʺ
44
A P/J fabric, produced by CKM, has WPI= 32 and CPI= 44. The machine
has 90 feeders and 1692 needles. The cylinder is revolved at 29 rpm. If the
weight of the cut fabric by a GSM cutter is 1.74 gm, then calculate the
production of the machine in Kg per hour.

52.88 × 3559.09
Fabric area produced per hour = m2
39.37 ×39.37
= 121.42 m2
Fabric GSM = 1.74 × 100 = 174
121.42 × 174
Production = Kg/hour
1000
= 21.13 Kg/hour