THE TRAVELLER’S GUIDE TO

Journey to the
CONTINENT’S Witness
MOST MYTHICAL T HE OR AC
LE
OF T H E S
SITES A NC I E N T S

Captivating castles
Edition
Digital

FANTASTICAL FORESTS MOUNTAIN MARVELS SEA SORCERY

EDITION
FIRST
WEEELCOME
W LCOME
o you think you know Europe?
Organised, rational, birthplace of
modern science? Europe’s secrets
might just surprise you. Beneath
the continent’s well-ordered streets
and underpinning its modern, mundane
societies teems a wealth of ancient mystical
knowledge just waiting for you to rediscover
it. Come with us on an epic journey to a
Europe in which almost every river, mountain,
woodland and lake has its own tutelary spirit,
where haunted castles tower over landscapes
engraved with the lines of ancient energies
and where spirits gather in every hill and dale.
And don’t think the old magic is confined
to the countryside either – even the most
hi-tech cities have arcane secrets to reveal to
those who can see them...

Image source: Adobe Stock

06 THE MYSTICAL CONTINENT
Europe’s ancient and mythical history
52
MYTH & MAGIC
12 ON THE TRAIL OF KING ARTHUR
Seeking out the legendary king of a
mythical British realm

18 QUEST FOR THE HOLY GRAIL 06

In pursuit of the holy cup of medieval
Christian legend from

22 THE MAGICAL GARDEN 32

OF ALBERTUS MAGNUS
Blossoming on a winter’s night f

24 CITIES OF SORCERY
Wizardry on the streets of Europe f

30 LEGENDS OF THE
BASQUE COUNTRY
The mystic heritage of Euskadi f

32 DONJONS & DRAGONS

Fortresses of myth and legend f

46 THE LAND BEYOND

THE FORESTS 92
Folk magic in Transylvania f
100
48 FOLLOW IN FAUST’S FOOTSTEPS
Exploring the haunts of Dr Faustus f

52 MOUNTAIN MYSTERIES
Strange tales from the peaks and passes
of Europe’s mighty mountains f

24

64
 CONTENTS

SACRED SITES
60 LEY LINES & EARTH MYSTERIES
Exploring the secrets of the landscape f

64 AN ANCIENT GREEK ODYSSEY

Sacred sites of classical Greecef

70 THE MEGALITHIC TEMPLES

OF MALTA
Ancient wonders

72 HOLY LANDS
Mystical Christian shrines f

76 THE SANCTUARY AT LOURDES

The home of holy healing f

78 ON UNHALLOWED GROUND
Consecrated but cursed f

12 82 LONDON’S TEMPLE OF MITHRAS

60 A Roman mystery in central London f

84 SET IN STONE
Secrets of the standing stoness f

90 DARE YOU VISIT THE

18 WITCHES’ CAVES?
The haunts of hags f

92 FAIRY FORESTS & SACRED GROVES

Mythical and magical forests f

100 AMAZING LABYRINTHS

Puzzling paths to follow f

WONDERFUL WATERS
106 STREAMS OF CONSCIOUSNESS
European rivers with hidden depths f

112 HOLY WELLS AND

SACRED SPRINGS
Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy, Getty

Sacred waters with mystical powers f

116 REFLECTING POOLS

Lake legends f
116
122 INTO THE SEA
Secrets of Europe’s surrounding seas f

05
 MYSTICAL
Whether you venture into its fairytale forests and wander through the
cobbled streets of one of its medieval towns or hike the vast wilderness
of its northernmost peaks, Europe’s aura is one of enchantment,
urging you to dig deeper into its mythic and magical past

WORDS ALICE PATTILLO

 Above: Europe is home
to romantic medieval
tales of knights in
shining armour fending
off dragons for damsels
locked in fairytale castles

urope’s hills are alive with LEGENDARY LANDSCAPES

the sound of celestial spirits. Europe’s esoteric nature is rooted in its
Its dense thickets whisper of landscape. Evidence of early magical
folklore and fairytales, and its practices have been discovered in the form
craggy valleys are littered with of prehistoric paintings and artefacts – such
the ghosts of days gone by. This enigmatic as the mystical Grotte de Gabillou and
continent beckons the curious traveller to Lascaux Caves in France and the curious
discover its mythical past. From the emerald Lion-man figurine of Hohlenstein-Stadel, the
hills of Ireland and snow-capped peaks of first known depiction of a mythical human-
the Alps to the majestic fjords of Norway, animal hybrid – suggesting a belief in the
the dreamy coastlines of Greece and the supernatural that dates back thousands
bewitching woodlands of Germany, every of years to at least Neolithic times – when
corner of these storied lands whispers the settlements and agriculture began to replace
legends of ancient heroes, powerful deities, hunter-gatherer lifestyles.
magical creatures and enchanted realms. Belief in folk magic, superstition and
Whether you’re wandering through the mystical forces grew out of our ancestors’
cobblestone streets of a medieval town or need to make sense of the world they were
hiking in the rugged wilderness, Europe’s living in. While we now know that many of
mystique is ever-present, enticing you to Europe’s unique land features are thanks to
explore its many layers. geological processes and the Earth’s natural
cycles, prior to scientific understanding,
ENCHANTED EUROPE the causes of natural phenomena would be
Located entirely within the Northern deemed supernatural and inspire a story.
Hemisphere – spanning from the Atlantic The ancestors of Europe believed that the
Ocean in the west to the Ural Mountains Scottish moors were teeming with fairies
and Caspian Sea, bordering Asia in the east, shrouded in its ethereal mist, the White
and stretching up to the Arctic Ocean in the Cliffs of Dover are ancient guardians of the
north and down to the Mediterranean in the land, the volcanic Mount Etna is the forge
south – Europe holds within its borders a rich of the ancient Greek god of fire and the
tapestry of mysticism, myth, and magic. In underground rivers, caves and sinkholes of
terms of land mass, the continent of Europe the limestone landscapes of Slovenia were
is rather unassuming when compared to the entrances to the underworld – and it’s easy
vast expanse of Asia or the Americas, but its to see why.
influence cannot be underestimated. This And it’s not just these unseen forces of
compact but diverse continent is particularly nature that solidified the case for a continent
multicultural, encompassing 44 countries, teeming with fantastical mythology; traces
with a large variety of landscapes, climates, of our own past have also led to some of
cultures and religions at home here. Its huge history’s most enduring legends. Evidence
variety of peoples and cultures, all of whom of early man, Paleolithic beasts and Jurassic
Above: The ruins of an have intermingled for centuries, has led to monsters have been unearthed across the
ancient Greek theatre
in Sicily with a view to the development of hundreds of thousands continent. These fossils of extinct species,
Mount Etna, the forge of of stories, mythologies and superstitions that up until recently, could easily have been
fire god Hephaestus
still resonate today. mistaken for creatures of folklore.

07
A MYRIAD OF MYTHS THE SUPERSTITIOUS DARK AGES
With legends being woven into the very Despite Christianity spreading through
fabric of the European continent, out of the continent during the latter days of the
each unique landscape emerged elaborate Roman Empire and into the medieval era, the
tales of a mythical ancient past, all of which peoples of Europe wouldn’t let go of their old
have helped shape the cultural identities of ways, leading to a unique blend of folk belief
each nation. Europe’s very name is rooted and Christianity that can be seen in various
in mythology. It is named for Europa, a architectural structures, if you know where to
Phoenician princess of ancient Greek myth look.Early Christians would often adapt local
who was mother to King Minos of Crete, after pagan customs and beliefs to make Christian
being seduced by Greek god Zeus in the form conversion more palatable.
of a bull. New legends emerged that blended both
For our ancestors, myth and magic was Christian and pagan beliefs. Previously
often blended into everyday life; everything pagan myths were converted into Christian
was linked to spirituality and the divine – it allegories by swapping out heathen deities
influenced everything from their politics and for Christian saints. Pagan festivals, rituals,
architecture to community celebrations and and symbols were also incorporated
individual occupations. Ancient wonders and into Christian practices. This process of
sacred sites dotted throughout the continent adoption, or syncretism, allowed traditional
are a testament to this. Stonehenge in beliefs to persist under a Christian guise.
England has puzzled historians for centuries. Many practices and beliefs were simply too
The ancient site is shrouded in mystery and ingrained into people’s identities and ways
continues to attract folks seeking spiritual of life to be completely eradicated, and rural
solace. The Acropolis of Athens still stands communities in particular maintained old
as a testament to the ancient Greeks’ customs. Local storytellers continued to tell
admiration of their gods. The Parthenon, a their tales orally and healers continued to
temple dedicated to the goddess of wisdom, practice folk magic throughout the continent,
Athena, is an awe-inspiring architectural adapting it to incorporate Christian elements
marvel and symbol of civilisation and by adding Christian symbols to their
enlightenment. Meanwhile, head to Sweden charms and Christian prayers into their
and the ancient sites of Uppsala, and you’ll spells. This helped maintain each region’s Above: The
legendary Predjama
discover where sacrifices were once made to unique identity, keep the old ways alive and Castle, built within
the gods of Odin and Thor. allow regional folklore to evolve. Venture the mouth of a cave
into many medieval churches and you will
Below: Mythical beasts such
see the evidence of this tension between
as unicorns have captivated Christianity and paganism. Across the Celtic regional myths previously only passed down
the imagination of Europeans nations, you will notice Celtic crosses – like by word of mouth, often documented by
for over two thousand years
the one at Clonmacnoise monastery in monks reinterpreting pagan myths in a way
Ireland that dates back to the 6th century that explores the tensions between pagan
or the later Muiredach’s High Cross at the and Christian belief. This can be seen with
Monasterboice ruins. Many Norwegian the 11th century Welsh manuscripts of the
churches feature pagan-influenced carvings, Four Branches of the Mabinogi and Irish
some with runic inscriptions added by Lebor na hUidre (‘Book of the Dun Cow’)
parishioners. Similarly, many of Britain’s detailing aspects of Celtic mythology, the
churches feature so-called witch marks: Germanic epic poem Beowulf, Geoffrey of
sigils drawn on walls, doors or floors to Monmouth’s 12th century Historia Regum
ward off evil or, occasionally, hex people. Britanniae (‘History of the Kings of Britain’)
Gargoyles also mark a throwback to older detailing the Arthurian legends, the German
mythologies and are found on medieval heroic epic Nibelungenlied, and the Icelandic
churches as well as ancient architecture. texts the Poetic Edda and Prose Edda which
detail Norse mythology. These texts form
LITERARY LEGENDS some the foundational mythologies of the
During the later half of the Middle Ages, European peoples, passed down through the
as literacy increased, texts began to generations, and have continued to influence
emerge that aimed to preserve various modern European culture.

“Beneath any hill could lie a sleeping hero, any ancient

o a k c o u l d h a r b o ur a p o r t a l t o a n o t h e r wo r l d , a n d
hidden in ever y cobbled street are countless stor ies”

08
 THE MYSTICAL CONTINENT

of Central and Eastern Europe as well as

Portugal, Italy and Serbia. Local celebrations
still incorporate ancient magical beliefs
and many countries still hold festivities for
pagan holidays, such as Kupala Night in the
Balkans, the Swiss parade of Klausenfest in
Appenzell, Swedish traditions of Midsummer
and Easter witches, Green Week in Ukraine,
the Italian Christmas witch Befana, and the
Beltane Fire Festival in Edinburgh, Scotland.

HIDDEN TREASURES
As you traverse the European continent to
uncover its rich, hidden tapestry of myth,
magic and mysticism, consider the contents
of these pages as merely a starting point.
Europe beckons you to venture beyond
the well-trodden paths and seek out local
folklore. Branch out of the more well-
known European holiday hotspots and into
Slovenia, for instance, and you’ll discover the
captivating Postojna Cave, home to ‘baby
dragons’ and the nearby legends of Predjama
Castle. Head to Hamelin in Germany and
you’ll discover the medieval town home to
the grim folktale of the Pied Piper, or trade
in Prague for the Czech Republic city of
Český Krumlov, full of medieval charm and
alchemical history.
Beneath any hill could lie a sleeping hero,
any ancient oak could harbour a portal to
another world, and hidden in every cobbled
street there are countless stories waiting to
be discovered. Engage with the landscapes
that have inspired countless stories,
By the Renaissance, there was a revival of alchemist’s lab that dates back to the 16th embrace the spirit of adventure, and explore
old beliefs and even more interpretations of century (now a museum called Speculum this mystical continent where reality and
these myths of ancient origin were added Alchemiae) as well as at the Alchemist’s imagination are beautifully blurred.
to Europe’s legendary narrative. With this Tower (Alchemistenturm) in Freiburg,
renewed interest in classical mythology and Germany. Alchemy influenced the mysticism
pagan practices, came the evolution of a new that swept across Europe during the 19th Below: The
Celtic Cross is
form of magic: Science. and early 20th centuries, too. London-based a phenomenon
magical societies the Hermetic Order of the most prevalent
in
ADVENTURES IN ALCHEMY Golden Dawn, the Society of the Inner Light, Ireland and blend
earlier art styles
s
Alchemy was integral to later medieval and the Parisian order of Martinism were of
the Celtic natio
ns
Europe. Influenced by ancient Egyptian both heavily influenced by alchemy and have with Christian
iconography
and Greek knowledge, Arabic texts and the left a lasting legacy, with their influence still
rapid expansion of contemporary scientific felt in modern esoteric practices.
thought, alchemists initially sought to
transform metal into gold, which evolved, for MODERN MAGIC
medieval Europeans, into achieving a spiritual Traditions remain strong across Europe,
transformation as well. Alchemists searched with New Age movements developing
for what was known as the philosopher’s out of Europe’s rich magical heritage.
stone – a mythical substance that would not The modern religions of Wicca, Druidry,
only turn base metal into precious metal but Heathenry and Paganism all have their
grant immortality as well. The predecessor to roots in Europe and European mythology
modern-day chemistry, alchemy was a blend and mysticism. The spiritual philosophy
of the material and the mystic and influenced of Thelema, first established in Britain by
everything from art and literature to later occultist Aleister Crowley, continued to
Western philosophy and esoteric traditions. have a global following and many other
Today, traces of Europe’s alchemical past can forms of witchcraft still exist across the
be found in Prague’s hidden underground continent today. Belief in superstition and
chambers, where you’ll discover an original the supernatural remains strong in areas

09
 H & MA
Y T

GI
M

C
12 ON THE TRAIL OF KING ARTHUR
Seeking out the legendary king of
a mythical British realm

18 QUEST FOR THE HOLY GRAIL

In pursuit of the holy cup of medieval
Christian legend

22 THE MAGICAL GARDEN

OF ALBERTUS MAGNUS
Blossoming on a winter’s night

24 CITIES OF SORCERY
Wizardry on the streets of Europe

30 LEGENDS OF THE
BASQUE COUNTRY
The mystic heritage of Euskadi

32 DONJONS & DRAGONS

Fortresses of myth and legend

46 THE LAND BEYOND

THE FORESTS
Folk magic in Transylvania

48 FOLLOW IN FAUST’S FOOTSTEPS

Exploring the haunts of Dr Faustus

52 MOUNTAIN MYSTERIES
Strange tales from the peaks and passes
of Europe’s mighty mountains

10
11
MYTH & MAGIC

On the trail of

There are over a thousand years’ worth of legends

associated with the mythical king who pulled the
magical sword, Excalibur, from the stone

WORDS ALICE PATTILLO

ing Arthur is perhaps the most the legendary island of Avalon, thought to
famous of all of the legends of be influenced by the Welsh otherworld of
Britain. King Arthur Pendragon, Annwn, as the magical place where mythical
if he did indeed exist as a man, sword Excalibur was forged, ruled over by
is believed by some to have Arthur’s sorceress sister Morgan Le Fay
been King of Britain between the 5th and and the supernatural magician Merlin, are
6th centuries, and fought off the invading all found in Historia Regum Britanniae.
Anglo Saxons. His first mention in texts, Geoffrey’s Arthur, son of Uther Pendragon,
however, isn’t until around 100 years or led an empire that also comprised areas of
more later, first (possibly) in the 7th century Ireland, Iceland and Orkney, later expanding
Welsh poem Y Gododdin, and then in the 9th into Denmark, Norway and Gaul. During the
century text the Historia Brittonum (‘The reign of Edward I (1239-1307), Arthur lost
History of the Britons’) and the 10th century some of his distinctly Welsh origins thanks to
Annales Cambriae (‘Annals of Wales’). These Edward’s conquest of Wales and attempt to
are known as the pre-Galfridian Arthurian reinvent King Arthur as an English hero in his
texts and they feature Arthur as a fierce own image. By the 13th century, King Arthur
warrior who fights off mythical beasts and had seen yet another shift in character with
has a connection to the Welsh otherworld the rise of the Arthurian romance. These
of Annwn. It is likely that his character as a tales were particularly popular in France and
magical hero and mythical figure developed featured Arthur as a powerful and wise yet
through the influence of Welsh mythology, bland and inactive monarch, focusing the
and one school of thought argues that Arthur stories more on the subcharacters such as
was never a real historical figure at all, but an the Knights of the Round Table, particularly
old Celtic deity turned folklore hero. Whether Sir Lancelot, Galahad and Percival, and
or not Arthur was a real forgotten hero or a Arthur’s adulterous wife Guinevere. These
mythical forgotten god, his legendary status 12th century French texts also gave Arthur’s
as a monarch was solidified with 12th century castle and court a definitive name: Camelot.
writer Geoffrey of Monmouth’s hugely Since the popularisation of the legendary
influential pseudohistoric account Historia king and his knights in shining armour,
Regum Britanniae (‘The History of the Kings almost every nation within Britain has laid
of Britain’). Geoffrey laid the foundation for a claim to this mythical king – but its not
the Arthurian myth that would captivate just a British phenomenon. Other European
the world for the next thousand years by countries have professed associations with
combining the lore found in the earlier texts Arthurian legend, from the true site of Avalon
and adding to it further. Elements such as to the location of the ‘real’ Round Table.

12
 ON THE TRAIL OF KING ARTHUR

CAERLEON
Location: Newport, Gwent, Wales, UK
Time zone: UTC 0
Currency: Pound sterling (£)

The home of Geoffrey of Monmouth is

a mere 20 miles from this Welsh town
and former Roman outpost. According
to Historia Regum Britanniae, it was
at Caerleon – ‘City Of The Legion’
– that King Arthur held his court.
This, according to Geoffrey, was an
important place, and even had its own
archbishop prior to King Arthur taking
the crown. While Geoffrey makes no
mention of Camelot – this name was
first used by French poet Chretien
de Troyes some 50 years later – the
court of Caerleon no doubt inspired
what became known as Camelot.
The exact site of Arthur’s court in
Caerleon remains debated – was it
what became the castle mound, the
Mynde? Many believe this to be his
place of burial, and where he and
his knights lie in wait until they are
needed once again. In Elizabethan
Britain, it was the ruins of the
amphitheatre that was rumoured to
have been Arthur’s elusive Round
Table. But it seems the most logical
spot for Arthur to build his castle
would be the former Iron Age fort, now
Lodge Hill. Archaeological excavations
in 2000 found evidence of the hillfort
being reused in the late Roman or
immediately post-Roman period,
between the 3rd and 4th centuries.
Perhaps it was reoccupied by the
Knights of the Round Table? We
may never know. Caerleon was also
the birthplace of mystic and horror
author Arthur Machen. Machen was
fascinated by Arthurian legend and
made it his lifelong quest to discover
the Holy Grail.

13
 ano
Above: The active volc
ly aura
and Etna’s otherworld
why
makes it easy to see
true
it is often cited as the

GLASTONBURY
location of Avalon

Location: Somerset, England, UK Time zone: UTC 0 Currency: Pound sterling (£) MOUNT ETNA
Glastonbury has many ties to the tale of tomb in the abbey church and, opened some Location: Sicily, Italy
King Arthur. The town is known as the “Isle 100 years later for King Edward I, reburied Time zone: UTC+1
of Avalon”, the entrance to which is situated into an intricate black marble chest that
Currency: Euro (€)
upon Glastonbury Tor, and it is within was placed centrally before the high altar.
the ruins of Glastonbury Abbey that the The tomb remained situated in the heart of Although it seems unlikely that a
legendary king and his queen, Guinevere, the church, with Saxon kings Edmund the British king who was, not long before
are said to be buried. In 1191, monks at the Elder and Edmund Ironside either side of it, his death, said to be preparing a
Abbey claimed to have found two bodies, one until at least the 1530s. Unfortunately it was march on Rome, would find his final
of a tall man and the other of a woman, in a destroyed during the Reformation, leaving no resting place in Italy, some say he
grave with a lead cross that was inscribed evidence of the king and his wife. The stunt did. Arthurian legend likely reached
with “Here lies buried the renowned King is now believed to have been a hoax to help Sicily during its Norman occupation.
Arthur, with Guinevere his second wife, in the generate interest and fund the rebuilding of Breton conteurs (storytellers) who
isle of Avalon…” The bodies were placed in a the Abbey following a fire. accompanied the Normans to Sicily
attributed its stunning scenery and

TINTAGEL
the imposing force of Mount Etna to
the fact that it is the mythical island
of Avalon itself. According to ancient
Greek mythology, Etna was the home
Location: Cornwall, England, UK Time zone: UTC 0 Currency: Pound sterling (£) of the god or fire and blacksmithing,
Hephaestus, and Avalon was where
According to Geoffrey of the mythical sword Excalibur was
Monmouth, it was at Tintagel forged by magic – coincidence? The
Castle that King Arthur was Normans were convinced.
conceived – although the castle Legend has it that the king ‘s
that survives in ruins today wasn’t sister and queen of Avalon, Morgan
constructed until the 1230s, there Le Fay, is keeping Arthur alive even
is evidence that a high-status now by feeding him from the Holy
building was situated in the same Grail once a year in a castle whose
location between the 5th and 7th entrance is within one of the caves
centuries, possibly the palace of along the slopes of the volcano. Etna
the kingdom of Dumnonia. Legend is also known as Mongibello, meaning
has it that Arthur’s father, Uther Above: Could Tintagel be
‘beautiful mountain’, a phrase very
Pendragon, seduced Queen Igerna where the legend began? similar to the name of Morgan’s
(Igraine/Ygraine), the wife of his otherworldly castle, Mongibel. Later
enemy, Duke Gorlois of Cornwall, 12th century texts also feature a
by magically changing his appearance to that set upon Cornwall’s rugged north coastline, subterranean realm beneath the
of Gorlois and as a result, she conceived a and if you can handle the long walk, discover volcano where Arthur once lost his
son. Medieval antiquary William Worcester the gigantic bronze sculpture known as the horse. Locals dub the mirage seen on
also claimed that Arthur was born at Tintagel King Arthur Statue within the castle remains the nearby Straits of Messina ‘Fata
– which would make sense, being the home – an eight-foot modern, ghostly, sculpture Morgana’ in reference to the mythical
of his mother. Later French and German of a crowned, cloaked man holding a sword. queen. Experience the otherworldly
Arthurian romances also have Tintagel as the Beneath the castle at low tide you will spot magic of Etna with a guided hike if you
court of the uncle of the legendary Tristan, Merlin’s Cave – accessible for free via a are feeling brave, or jump on one of
King Mark of Cornwall. Today, for a fee, you footpath – made famous by the Afred Lord the 4x4 Jeep ride tours.
can visit the 13th century castle dramatically Tennyson poem, Idylls of the King.

14
 ON THE TRAIL OF KING ARTHUR

CADBURY CASTLE
Location: Somerset, England, UK Time zone: UTC 0 Currency: Pound sterling (£)

adbury Castle’s association Castle to Glastonbury Tor – on a moonlit

with Arthurian legend dates night you may spot the ghosts of the
back to the 16th century Knights of the Round Table crossing this
and the works of English reputedly haunted trail. Archaeological
antiquarian John Leland, who excavations at the site have revealed a
placed Arthur’s court, Camelot, large 6th century timbered great hall,
at the site. Despite its name, there which could have housed Arthur’s Round
is no identifiable castle at Cadbury. Table, as well as a partly constructed
Yet another Iron Age settlement, the church, and evidence of houses and
original hillfort located on the summit small temples. One legend has it that
of Cadbury Hill was refortified with the hillfort turns clear at midsummer,
timber and earth around the time King revealing the legendary king and
Arthur was said to have been ruling his knights in the ruins. For more
Britain. Not far from the Isle of Avalon, information about the site, visit the
a causeway known as King Arthur’s nearby aptly named The Camelot pub
Hunting Track links Cadbury where you can also grab a bite to eat.

15
MYTH & MAGIC

ARTHUR’S SEAT
Location: Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Time zone: UTC 0
Currency: Pound sterling (£)

This volcanic hill in Edinburgh, Scotland, is

associated with centuries of superstition.
One of Scotland’s most popular hiking
trails, its peak, Arthur’s Seat, towers above
the Scottish capital and offers spectacular
360-degree views of the city and landscape.
Often hypothesised to be the location of
King Arthur’s Round Table, or the site of one
of his many legendary battles, this uniquely
shaped hill is also believed to be a sleeping
dragon. One thing is certain though; Arthur’s
Seat was once an Iron Age hillfort and a
centre of power for the Votadini people,
Above: This elaborate mentioned in the Welsh poem Y Gododdin.
Celtic hillfort may have
been the setting for
one of Arthur’s most
significant battles

BADBURY RINGS with his legendary Excalibur. According to

legend, King Arthur’s victory over the Saxons
Location: Dorset, England, UK at Badon brought about 21 years of peace
Time zone: UTC 0 in Britain, with the Saxons integrating into
Currency: Pound sterling (£) British society. Badbury’s claim to this is
A former Iron Age hillfort, Badbury Rings purely based upon its name’s similarity
is rumoured to have been the location of to the mythical location, so take the tale Above: Could King Arthur’s
Mount Badon where King Arthur fought with a pinch of salt, but the magical Celtic Camelot overlook Edinburgh?
against the Saxons, slaying 470 of them earthwork makes it worth a trip anyway.

CHÂTEAU DE JOYEUSE GARDE

Location: La Forest-Landerneau, Brittany, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

The site of a 6th century fortress

that is rumoured to have been
the legendary Joyous Gard, the
castle was rebuilt in the 12th or
13th century but all that remains
of this medieval stronghold are a
few vestiges. The Joyous Gard was
first mentioned in the 13th century
French prose, Lancelot, as the
knight’s fortified residence after
he is able to single-handedly rid it
of the forces of evil. Lancelot later
allows the legendary lovers Tristan
and Isolde to live at the palace, and
it is where Lancelot brings Guinevere
when Arthur sentences her to
death for adultery with Lancelot.
It is eventually where Sir Lancelot
himself is buried, beside the grave of
his friend, the half-giant Galehaut.

16
 ON THE TRAIL OF KING ARTHUR

ISLE OF AVAL AVALLON

Location: Brittany, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)
Location: Burgundy, France
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)

Considering this Burgundian

commune’s name, it is no surprise
that Avallon is a prime suspect for
the location of the elusive Avalon of
Arthurian myth. According to British
Arthurian historian Geoffrey Ashe,
King Arthur is likely based upon
the Romano-British supreme king
Riothamus, whose life and campaigns
are strikingly similar to the legendary
Brittonic monarch. In 470, Riothamus
vanished in the area of Avallon
after defeat in a battle against the
This small island off the coast of Brittany is other Arthurian tales, one day the King is Visigoths. While this is a captivating
yet another possible location of Avalon, and said to return to his lands when he is needed theory, this Avallon is not an island,
its name, meaning apple in French (similar again. The island was home to a 6th century making this hypothesis rather ropey.
to the Welsh for apple, afal), couldn’t be monastery, where Arthur’s tomb is said to
closer to the legendary place. According to be located at the foot of a standing stone
Brettonic legend, Morgan Le Fay kidnapped in the middle of the old monastic cemetery.
Arthur from his springtime residence, a A mass grave was reportedly discovered in
castle at Kerduel in Little Brittany. She tore the late 19th century and the mysterious
him away to the Isle of Aval and offered him skeletal remains of around 30 people and
eternal life. In one version of the myth, Arthur numerous horses, assumed to date back
asked Morgan if he could see his kingdoms to the early middle ages, were transferred
again. The Queen of Avalon obliged under to the cemetery of the Île-Grande. Whether
the condition that he would be transformed these were indeed the bones of Arthur and
into a crow or raven. Just like many of the his knights, we may never know.

KING ARTHUR’S HALL

Location: Bodmin Moor, Cornwall, England, UK Time zone: UTC 0 Currency: Pound sterling (£)

This megalithic monument on the mysterious

Bodmin Moor is thought to be a late Neolithic
ceremonial site. A rectangular formation
of 56 rocks surrounded by a bank of earth,
originally thought to have contained around
140 stones, it is situated within a landscape
rich with megalithic monuments such as
stone circles and cairns. Its association with
King Arthur, however, is relatively recent.
A document dated 1954 suggests that the
legendary Brittonic hero frequented the site.
Situated in an area known as King Arthur’s
Down, King Arthur’s Hall is only accessible
on foot, if you can manage to scale the
hillocks. This bizarre sunken patch of land,
approximately 50 by 25 metres, is best
seen in the spring to summer months and is
known to fill with water during heavy rainfall,
so be careful when hiking it.

17
MYTH & MAGIC

Below: Sir Edward Burne-Jones’s

extraordinary tapestry showing the
fulfilment of the quest as Sir Galahad
beholds the Holy Grail

for
Quest the

The quest for the Holy Grail unites the two strongest currents
of European spirituality: Christianity and the legends of Arthur
and his knights

WORDS EDOARDO ALBERT

18
 QUEST FOR THE HOLY GRAIL

nd He took a cup and when In the late 12th century, the French poet Jerusalem: “And did those feet in ancient time;
He had given thanks He gave Chrétien de Troyes wrote Perceval, the Story Walk upon England’s mountains green?”
it to them saying “Drink this, of the Grail, which first set a grail – Christian The Holy Chalice of the Last Supper and the
all of you.”’ or otherwise – within the body of Arthurian Holy Grail of Arthurian legend had now met
According to St Matthew’s legends. and fused. In their fusion, they produced the
account of the last meal Jesus Then another French poet, Robet de Boron, most sublime of the Arthurian tales, the great
had with his disciples, these were the words wrote a verse romance of the life of Joseph of cycle of stories that tell of the quest of the
he spoke before being taken prisoner and Arimathea in which Joseph used the Chalice Knights of the Round Table for the Holy Grail.
hauled before Pilate. Mark and Luke and Paul from the Last Supper to catch some of Jesus’s All the knights take part in that quest but only
repeat the account in their own ways. The blood as he hung upon the cross. Joseph then three succeed: Sir Bors, Sir Percival and the
meal, and both Jesus’s actions and words brought the Chalice – or Grail – with him to purest knight of all, Sir Galahad.
during this final feast, became the basis for the vaus d’Avaron, the valleys of Avaron, in The Holy Grail is embedded deeply within
Christian celebrations, for their Eucharist, the west. Avaron became Avalon, which was the European imagination. Its quest inspired
in the first century and for the centuries equated with Glastonbury. Later legends and inspires people, poets and artists to this
thereafter. suggested that Joseph had travelled with a day. And pilgrims continue to go in quest of
There was no more significant and holy young Jesus to England. William Blake took the cups that claim to be the true relic of the
event in the religion – and the cup into which that story and used it to sanctify his vision of chalice that Jesus himself held and blessed on
Jesus poured the wine was seen as the England to spine-tingling effect in the words of that fateful night in Jerusalem.
receptacle into which he poured his blood for
Image source: Getty, Wikimedia

the salvation of all.

A little later, but still in the first millennium, “ T he Holy Grail is embedded deeply within the
a body of legends began to form around the
person of King Arthur. In the way of popular European imagination . Its quest inspired and inspires
tales, the stories developed a gravity of their
own, sucking other stories into their orbit.
p e o p l e , p o e t s a n d a r t i s t s t o t hi s d a y ”

19
19
MYTH & MAGIC

CHÂTEAU OF MONTSÉGUR
MONASTERY Location: Montségur, l’Ariège, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

OF SAN JUAN The Château of Montségur, set atop a huge proposed that among these treasures was

DE LA PEÑA rock outcrop, was the last stronghold of

the Cathars, a medieval heretical sect that
the Holy Grail. Péladan derived this idea by
equating Montségur with Munsalväsche,
believed the flesh, and its pleasures, were the castle of the Holy Grail in Wolfram von
Location: Santa Cruz de la Serós, inherently sinful. In 1244, the last Cathar Eschenbach’s Parzival, and later writers have
Huesca, Spain believers were besieged in the castle for 10 taken the idea and run with it. The Cathar
Time zone: UTC+1 months. When the castle finally fell, over 200 fortress was demolished.
Currency: Euro (€) hundred Cathars were burned for their faith. The present ruin was a later royal
However, according to some accounts, stronghold. However, it presents a
While the Holy Chalice is now in the before the end a few Cathars managed to remarkable alignment on the morning of the
Cathedral of Valencia, the question slip through the lines of the besiegers with summer solstice, when the light from the
remains of how it got there. After all, various treasures and secret knowledge. In rising sun shines through the narrow window
the Spanish city of Valencia is a long 1906, a French writer, Joséphin Péladan, first slits of the castle.
way from ancient Palestine.
According to tradition, the cup
was brought to Rome by St Peter
himself where it was used by
his successors until increasing
persecution meant that it had to
SACRO CATINO OF GENOA
Location: Museum of Genoa Cathedral, Genoa, Italy
be taken from the city and hidden.
Pope Sixtus II gave the chalice into Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)
the care of his deacon, Lawrence,
who fled Rome, eventually arriving This bright green hexagonal vessel certainly
in Huesca, the city in Spain where looks otherworldly, seeming to shine with
his parents lived. some mysterious interior light. From the 12th
Details get a little sketchy here, century it was held in Genoa and revered as
but somehow the chalice ended up the Holy Chalice. It was reputed to have been
under the care of the monks of the recovered by knights of the First Crusade
monastery of San Juan de la Peña, and to be carved from emerald. However, in
30 miles north east of Huesca. the early 19th century, Napoleon conquered
The chalice was documented in Genoa. The emperor ordered his soldiers to
1399 when it was given to Martin I bring the Sacro Catino to Paris. But, on the
of Aragón. It passed to Alfonso the way, they dropped it. The Sacro Catino broke
Magnanimous who placed it in his and, in breaking, revealed itself as made
palace in Valencia in 1424. In 1437, of glass, not emerald. In Paris, the broken
Alfonso gave the chalice to the pieces were examined by scientists from
church. It has been kept at Valencia the Academy of Science who determined
Cathedral for most of the time that it was probably a Byzantine bowl. Stuck
since, although it had to be hidden together, although with a piece missing, it
during the Spanish Civil War by a was returned to Genoa in 1816. More recent
brave local family. research suggests it was made in the 9th or
10th century. So probably not the Grail.

20
 QUEST FOR THE HOLY GRAIL

CHALICE OF
DOÑA URRACA
Location: St Isidore’s Basilica, León, Spain
Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

The Chalice of Doña Urraca has from the Christian community

been held at St Isidore’s Basilica in Jerusalem, taking it to Cairo.
in Spain for a very long time: From there, it was sent as a
since the 11th century. It was diplomatic gift to Ferdinand
given to the cathedral by Urraca of León in gratitude for his aid
of Zamora, the daughter of during a famine. The chalice
Ferdinand I of León. itself they dated to between the
However, it is only recently, 2nd century BCE and the 1st
since 2014, that it has been century CE. Such was the interest
recognised as a possible their claims produced that the
candidate for the Holy Grail. Two cathedral authorities have had to
Spanish researchers investigating move the chalice to a separate
Muslim texts in the cathedral room for display.
(for a thousand years much of
Right: The Chalice of Doña
Spain was under Muslim control), Urraca bears interesting parallels
found documents telling how to the chalice in Valencia; both
Muslims, who also controlled the are authentic kiddush cups of
roughly the right time
Holy Land, acquired a sacred cup

THE HOLY CHALICE OF

VALENCIA CATHEDRAL
Location: Valencia Cathedral, Valencia, Spain Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: € (Euro)

n a chapel of the magnificent Gothic Furthermore, the agate cup itself is the
cathedral in Valencia, Spain, there right size and volume for a kiddush cup,
is a simple stone cup, carved from the traditional Jewish vessel used for
red agate. It sits upon a much more blessing on the eve of Sabbath. The cup
elaborate base that makes it look would be filled with wine and the Kiddush
somewhat like a little pot sat atop a prayer is recited over the cup. The person
bejewelled spirit stove. reciting Kiddush then drinks from the cup
According to the belief of many before passing it to the next person at the
pilgrims, and the testimony of hundreds table for him to drink.
of years, the cup was the very chalice with So the chalice in Valencia fits the bill
which Jesus celebrated the Last Supper. for authenticity in both its age and its
Although it seems unlikely that a vessel possible use at least, and it remains on
could have survived for so long, there is display in the Cathedral throughout the
some evidence for its authenticity. Most year, where it is visited and venerated by
important to this is the cup itself, ignoring pilgrims. The cup is brought out twice a
its elaborate base. It is made from a type year, on Holy Thursday (the day before
of red/brown agate that is only found Good Friday when, according to tradition,
Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy

in Palestine and Egypt. What’s more, Jesus was said to have celebrated the
archaeologists have dated the carving of Last Supper) and on the last Thursday in
the cup to between the 2nd century BCE October, when the chalice itself is used
and the 1st century CE. So, the cup is old for the celebration of the annual mass in
enough to have been used by Jesus. its honour.

21
Below: When Albertus
Magnus invited a
monarch and his court
to Cologne, they had
no idea what amazing
sights awaited them in
an enchanted garden

The magical garden of

Location:
Cologne, Germany
Time zone:
UTC+1
Currency:
Euro (€)
Tip: A plaque
marks the site at
the intersection of
the streets An den
Dominikanern and
Stolkgasse
When philosopher Albertus Magnus threw an outdoor party
in the depths of winter, cold weather proved to be no problem

WORDS CATHERINE CURZON

22
 n the 13th century, philosopher Albertus they took their seats at the table, the snow He continued as head of his Dominican
Magnus was celebrated for his writings completely vanished, and the air grew as order and for a time, served as Bishop of
and philosophical work, even as rumours warm as spring. As the sun shone down on Regensburg. His theological career was
spread that he practised alchemy and them, flowers bloomed and birds settled in impressive and though he was made a saint
magic and had achieved results that the now blossoming trees, singing joyfully. in 1931, some still prefer to remember him
some regarded as dangerous. With at least For the duration of the supper, the garden as an alchemist and philosopher. Fittingly,
one scholar claiming that Albertus, known as was bathed in sunshine, but once the meal Albertus Magnus was named the patron saint
Doctor Universalis, possessed the secret of was finished and the attendees rose to leave, of natural scientists in 1941.
the philosopher’s stone, it was little wonder the season changed in the blink of an eye and On the site where the Dominican
that he was regarded as a man who knew winter returned once more. monastery once stood in Cologne, Albertus
more about Earth and the heavens than he Needless to say, this incredible feat only Magnus is commemorated by a plaque;
was willing to tell. enhanced the reputation of Albertus Magnus, sadly, the magical garden where he once
The most celebrated tale of the magical who had been born mere Albert de Groot. controlled the seasons is long since lost.
powers of Albertus Magnus isn’t one of
alchemy or devils, however, but a dinner
party. According to an account found in the
University of Paris, Albertus invited William II,
“T
T he garden was bathed in sunshine, but once the meal
King of the Romans, to visit him at his home was f inished and the attendees rose to leave, the season
in the Dominican Monastery at Cologne.
Despite it being the middle of winter, Albertus
changed in the blink of an eye and winter retur ned”
had dining tables set out in the snow-covered
garden, and it was here that he received
the king and his courtiers. Known for his
Below: William II, Count
unorthodox ways, nobody suspected exactly of Holland and King
what the philosopher had planned for his of the Romans, was
illustrious guests. treated to a miraculous
change of season in the
Understandably, the monarch and his blink of an eye
attendants were unimpressed at having
to dine in the freezing garden, fearing that
William II might fall ill as a result. However, as

Below: Theologian,
bishop, rumoured
alchemist and
eventual saint,
Albertus Magnus
turned a frigid
midwinter night
into spring to host
a very special
supper party

23
MYTH & MAGIC

of

Wherever you journey in Europe, there is no escaping magical

meaning – even in some of the continent’s most cosmopolitan cities

WORDS ALICE PATTILLO

24
 CITIES OF SORCERY

itchcraft is more often than not a mythical elixir of immortality – was be a surprise that they are still teeming
associated with rural locations, a respected science and all the rage with folklore, mythological associations,
small villages, forests and with the kings, queens and nobles of alchemical and esoteric symbology and
fields, but while the countryside the continent, despite it being deemed occult energies. And you can discover them
is no doubt teeming with folk magic heresy and prohibited by the Church. all – if you only know where to look! The
and mystical wisdom, not all sorcery is Queen Elizabeth I of England employed signs are often hidden in plain sight and
confined to the natural landscape – urban alchemist John Dee as her trusted can transform the way you look at city life.
areas are rich with magic too, particularly advisor and court astronomer, and he Take a look at the French capital,
alchemy and ‘high’ or ceremonial magic. would provide guidance to her through Paris, for example. Just beside the iconic
Many of Europe’s cities have been divination techniques. Sweden’s Queen Stravinsky fountain lies the Church of
inhabited for millennia. They have seen it Christina even dabbled in alchemy herself, Saint-Merri. Look up above the entrance
all. And just because we have moved so as did Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II, and you will see the figure of Baphomet
far from superstition and into scientific who was a patron of the occult sciences carved into the stone, a symbol used by
advancement, losing some of the beauty and consulted Nostrodamus. His lifelong the Knights Templar and associated with
and history by flattening historic buildings quest to find the philosopher’s stone even Satanism and the occult. And this is just
filled with passionate workmanship and led him to transport England’s leading one of numerous mystical monuments
artistic magic and replacing them with alchemists, John Dee and Edward Kelley, hidden behind the facade of the “city of
modern skyscrapers, housing and offices, all the way to Prague. Prague itself was a love”. But it’s not just Paris and Prague that
it doesn’t mean there aren’t magical hub of alchemy during this time, and the are teeming with lore. Pick any town or city
secrets still hidden within them. Look art was allowed to be practised within the in Europe and you are almost guaranteed
beyond the hustle and bustle of modern- city’s Jewish quarter. In 2002, an original to discover some long-lost secrets of
day city life and the same old copy-and- alchemist’s workshop, known as Speculum sorcery and the supernatural. From fun
paste coffeehouse conglomerates and Alchemiae, was discovered during the curiosities to tragic tales of persecution
multinational chainstores and you’ll see renovation of one of the Czech city’s and misfortune, these municipalities are
that towns and cities aren’t just alive with oldest buildings of the old Jewish Quarter curated exhibitions of our cultural past,
the rat race of consumerism, they are alive following a flood and is an essential visit teeming with hearsay and legend and
with the ghosts of their pasts. for anyone interested in the mystical arts. changing superstitions and beliefs. And
In late medieval to early modern With so much surviving medieval and there are some towns and cities so rich
Europe, alchemy – particularly the idea Renaissance architecture scattered with mythical and magical history there is
of turning metal into gold and finding throughout European cities, it shouldn’t a tale to tell on every street…

Left: From folk magic

to ceremonial secret
societies, Europe is rife
with the relics of our
mystical past

25
MYTH & MAGIC

Britain’s witch villages You needn’t be a witchfinder to stumble

across a witch in England

PENDLE Left: The tragedy of the

Pendle Witch trials will
never be forgotten
Location: Lancashire, England, UK
Time zone: UTC 0
Currency: Pound sterling (£)

12 people were found accused of

murder by witchcraft in the villages
surrounding the mysterious Pendle
Hill in 1612, all of whom were
sentenced to death by hanging save
one, who died before the trial. Today
you can learn about the Pendle Witch
Trials by visiting the Pendle Heritage
Centre in Barrowford. Retrace the
accused’s journey all the way to their
execution in Lancaster by following
the Pendle Witches Trail walk,
spot the witch sculptures dotted
throughout the countryside, or jump
in the car and follow the road trail.

BURLEY Right: This

picturesque
Hampshire
Location: Hampshire, England, UK Time zone: UTC 0 Currency: Pound sterling (£) town has a
magical past

Burley’s link to magic is mostly thanks to America – but not before she had made
infamous white witch of the 1950s Sybil her mark on the historic New Forest
Leek. Due in part to the locals finding village. You can find a large portrait of
issue with her peculiar nature, habit of Sybil, along with a ghostly cat and a large
wearing a long black cloak and her pet variety of witchy goodies for sale, in A
jackdaw perched upon her shoulder, Sybil Coven of Witches – the local shop she
was cast out of Burley and moved to was responsible for naming.

Left: Boscastle’s
Museum of
BOSCASTLE
Witchcraft and
Magic is a must-
Location: Cornwall, England, UK
visit for lovers of Time zone: UTC 0
all things magic Currency: Pound sterling (£)

This small, picturesque coastal village is

home to possibly the largest collection of
occult items in the world. Founded by Cecil
Williamson, a friend of Gerald Gardner and
Aleister Crowley, the Museum of Witchcraft
and Magic features thousands of unique
artefacts related to many esoteric traditions,
but focuses heavily on historical folk magic.
Step inside a traditional 18th century cottage
and inspect herbal remedies and divination
tools, pay your respects to those who lost
their lives in England’s early-modern witch
trials, and discover the origins of Wicca.

26
 CITIES OF SORCERY

TOLEDO
Location: Castilla-La Mancha, central Spain Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

ust an hour from Madrid you’ll reach the by rebranding them as satanic. So it is no surprise
former capital of the Visigoth kingdom, that it is in Europe’s mystical hub, Spain, that the
world heritage site Toledo. This ancient satanic witch was spawned. While the cultured people
and beautiful city is said to have been of Toledo believed that magic users could control
home to the oldest and most famous demons and were not controlled by them, further north
school of magic during the Middle Ages. Thanks to its rumours spread that in the Aneu Valley, high up in the
multicultural influences – the city has been occupied by Pyrenees mountain range in Catalonia, locals were
Jews, Christians and Muslims – a variety of theological being terrorised by high-ranking officials who were in
beliefs, philosophies and esoteric secrets were shared cahoots with bruxas (the medieval Catalonian term for
between cultures at this time, and knowledge that was Roman striges – child-killing nocturnal demons – which
lost to Christian Europe could be translated into Latin would later become bruja, the Spanish term for witch)
and spread throughout the West. Amongst this lost to pay homage to the devil. Campaigns from Catholic
knowledge were the arts of astrology, alchemy and priests quickly led to the idea that these satanic cults
occult sorcery such as geomancy (earth divination) and were prevalent across Europe, particularly in remote,
necromancy (communicating with the dead). mountainous regions, and that unsanctioned magic and
In fact, during the Middle Ages, Spain itself was witchcraft were the work of a devilish pact. This harmful
seen as the mystical hub of Europe, as it were, and the stereotype led to the widespread witch panic and the
top place to be if you were into the occult was Toledo. execution of hundreds of thousands of innocent people
Legends regarding this mystical hub were spawned, throughout Europe and beyond. Today, you can delve
including that daemons taught at its school of occult into the story of how the wise healing woman became
sciences. But by the late medieval to early modern the evil, cackling witch at the Brujeria Museum.
period, you didn’t want to be flying the flag for the
occult. The Church was clamping down on so-called Essential info: Take the train for a day trip from
heresy and aiming to wipe out non-Christian beliefs Madrid and tour the historic city of Toledo by foot

Below: Toledo was an

occult epicentre during
the Middle Ages

27
MYTH & MAGIC

TURIN
Location: Piedmont, Italy Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

ubbed “World Capital of Magic” back in facing former site of execution and burial said to be
2018, Turin earned its nickname as “the built on top of a gateway to hell which now features a
magical city” long before, thanks to its large monument of the angel Lucifer. Contrastingly, at
location. According to legend, this Italian the white magic-charged Piazza Solferino, you can find
city was founded by an Egyptian prince and the gateway to infinity and another fountain bursting
demigod, brother to Osiris, Eridanus, who chose the with esoteric symbolism. Another tunnel reportedly
location due to its rivers, the Po (representative of leads from below the Piazzo Castello city square – there
the sun) and the Dora (the moon), which form a ring is an important alchemical cave beneath the Palazzo
around the city. It is also believed to be situated at the Madama – possibly leading to the Gran Madre di Dio
intersection of two metaphorical magical triangles: Church, which is also associated with white magic. A
the white magic triangle formed with the cities of third tunnel system is said to exist but its location is
Prague in the Czech Republic and Lyon in France, and unknown. It is within this cave that, according to legend,
the black magic triangle between the cities of London, the magician Apollonius di Tyana hid the philosopher’s
England, and San Francisco in the United States. This stone in a cave beneath the city. Along with its position
duality of light and dark is echoed throughout the city, within two magical triangles, Turin is located at the foot
with various landmarks linked to either dark or light of the Italian Alps – an awe-inspiring mountain range
energies with the two sides believed to meet at the that is rampant with superstition and folklore regarding
Piazza del Palazzo. Beneath the city streets are a series witchcraft and magic.
of underground tunnels that are believed to lead to
alchemical caves. The Royal Palace is at the heart of Essential info: Turin has two airports: Caselle Airport
Turin’s white magic, beneath which the first gallery of and Cuneo Levaldigi Airport both offer easy access for
the tunnel system is reportedly located, and leads to international tourists and all of the city’s sights can
Statuto Square, the black magic epicentre – a western be all seen on foot

Below: Turin harbours

a hidden secret

28
 CITIES OF SORCERY
Right: From Roman
myths to occult
alignments, Rome is

ROME
full of mystic energy

Location: Italy Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

Known as the Eternal City, Rome’s esoteric were used in spellwork and folk magic as
past can be traced back to its foundation. It a charm and symbol of protection. Rome
is said to have been established by Romulus was also where alchemy-obsessed Swedish
and Remus – two mythical twin brothers and Queen Christina established a second court
sons of the god Mars, infamously saved by and held huge cultural influence at the time.
a mother wolf – their image, suckling from Head to the nearby Piazza Vittorio and you
the she-wolf, has become the city’s emblem. will find a now boarded up Alchemical Door.
Magic was practised by most Romans, in Probably the scribblings of one of Christina’s
one form or another, from divination and courtiers, the alchemist Francesco Borri, the
astrology to herbal potions and symbols of door is inscribed with enigmatic alchemical
protection. Almost everything was imbued symbols, Latin and Hebrew writings and is
with some form of mystical and mythical said to hold the secret to the philosopher’s
meaning. The city was originally designed stone – if only it could be decoded.
in a polygonal shape, its perimeter creating Buried at the Basilica of San Giovanni in Civette (House of Owls), the fantastical,
an eight-pointed star-shape representing Laterano, is the controversial ‘Wizard Pope’, fairytale-like residence designed at the wish
the sun. All of the city’s most significant Gerberto D’Aurillac (Pope Sylvester II). of Prince Giovanni Torlonia, a mysterious man
monuments are placed upon these lines. Legend has it that he was in league with the with a love of all things magical.
But the city’s links to sorcery didn’t end devil and when his tomb was opened some
with the Empire. Enter one of Rome’s most 645 years after his death, his corpse was Essential info: The easiest way to get
famous Christian monuments, the Basilica revealed to be intact before immediately around Rome is by public transport.
of Santa Maria Maggiore, and you will turning to dust. The lawn of Basilica of San Roma Passes include 48 or 72 hours of
discover a mysterious Sator Square inside its Giovanni in Laterano is also said to have been public transport access and the entry to
basement. The origins of these palindrome the spot where witches congregated on the one or two museums or experiences of
puzzles are unknown, but they date back to eve of the Feast of St. John the Baptist. And your choice plus discounts on additional
pagan Rome. During the Middle Ages they within the Villa Torlonia is the Casina delle exhibitions too

LONDON
Location: England, UK Time zone: UTC 0 Currency: Pound sterling (£)

to have conjured up a demon to create promising to take you to the former

the British Empire from a stone circle headquarters of the Hermetic Order of
situated on a ley line located in Mudchute the Golden Dawn, Wicca founder Gerald
Park on the Isle of Dogs. Rumour has Gardener’s London home, and even the
it his ritual led to the death of writer spot where infamous occultist Eliphas
Christopher Marlowe. Levi supposedly attempted to summon
Nicholas Hawksmoor, known as the up the dead.
Devil’s Architect, built a number of Before you leave the city, be sure to
Founded by the Romans on land occupied notable churches across the city, whose head to some of the oldest and best
by warring Gallic and Celtic tribes, magic locations are said to form a pentagram. occult bookshops: Watkins served
has imbued the UK capital for thousands Whether they do or not, his buildings Aleister Crowley and Golden Dawn
of years, from ancient Roman protection are imbued with the symbolism member WB Yeats since opening its
amulets to medieval spellcraft, and imagery of gothic paganism, doors in 1893, while Atlantis once
Elizabethan sorcery, Renaissance freemasonry and ancient Egypt. hosted Gerald Garner’s coven
alchemy and Victorian high magic. During Another place of interest is meetings and Treadwell’s is a
the Elizabethan era London became the home of former freemason, modern hub of all things esoteric.
the largest and most congested city in Sir John Soane, now a museum
Europe, home to alchemists, cunning that holds the sarcophagus of Essential info: Book one
folk and other professionals of the King Seti I. There are various of the many occult-
occult sciences, most notably John Dee. tours available across the city focused guided
Dee’s polished obsidian scrying mirror, for those seeking to tours of London to
his crystal ball and other magical relics delve further really delve into the
can be found in the British Museum’s into the secrets of the city
Image source: Alamy, Getty

Enlightenment Gallery. Dee is believed occult, and its magic

Above: Sphinx at
Cleopatra’s Needle

29
MYTH & MAGIC

Legends of
the Below: The earth
goddess Mari is
central to ancient
Basque belief; she
dwelt on earth, at
the heart of the
land she loved

Quashed by the arrival of Christianity and all but lost, the

beliefs of the ancient Basque people were rich in legend

WORDS CATHERINE CURZON

hen Christianity came to Christians, bringing in a wealth of figures and was at the heart of Basque belief long before
the ancient Basque people legends to join those that had been passed Christianity came to the region and can be
of northern Spain between down for centuries. found in one of her many sanctuaries across
the 4th and 12th centuries Although the elements of earth, fire, air and the land. Goddesses play a huge role in the
CE, it left no room for their traditional belief water were important to Basque tradition, culture, with Eguzki Amandrea and Ilargi
system. Based on the four elements, with earth was at the centre of their beliefs. Unlike Amandrea, the deities of the sun and moon
earth at its centre, Basque mythology was the Christian God, Basque deities didn’t live respectively, also female.
almost silenced. What trace of it remains in the heavens, but on or below the earth One of the most popular characters from
today can be found in legend and scattered, itself, with the sky simply a channel used Basque myth was the charcoal burner
fragmentary references to these ancient for travel by these divine beings. Central Olentzero, who visits Basque homes on 24
rituals. As they developed over centuries, to the mythology was the shapeshifting December each year to hand out gifts. This
their beliefs incorporated elements of other goddess of earth, Mari, and her consort, Basque Father Christmas may not wear a red
groups including the Romans and early Sugaar, the serpentine god of thunder. Mari suit but is just as generous and beloved as
his more famous counterpart.
Less welcome as a visitor is Akerbeltz o
Aker, a goat-like character with two faces
to match his two personalities. On the one
hand, the kindly side cares for and protects
animals. On the other, however, he is at the
head of supernatural covens and a lover
of excess and hedonism. Often associated
with fertility, the early Christians interpreted
Akerbeltz o Aker as the devil himself, who
was intent on debauching and perverting the
Christian faithful.
Filled with figures who were linked closely
with the natural world, including lamia, or
sirens, subservient gnomes, and legendary
ancient Basque heroes who possessed
superhuman strength, Basque mythology
Above: The bearded, portly and reclusive is rich and fascinating. Though much has
Olentzero is a welcome guest when he
visits Basque children on 24 December been lost, what remains offers a fascinating
to hand out presents! glimpse into a culture that could not be
entirely silenced.

30
 LEGENDS OF THE BASQUE COUNTRY

Location:
Basque
Autonomous
Community
(Euskadi), Spain
Time zone:
UTC+1
Currency:
Euro (€)

Image source: Adobe Firefly, Alamy, Getty

Above: When Christianity arrived

ancient Basque beliefs were
threatened. Thankfully, those
traditions weren’t lost

31
MYTH & MAGIC

Donjons &
What terrors lurk in the walls of the world’s most fearsome fortresses? Castles
weren’t just opulent homes, they were citadels; strongholds designed to endure
invasion, built not only to fight off their enemies but to capture, imprison and
torture them. If you are seeking spine-chilling spectres, these palace phantoms
won’t disappoint...

WORDS ALICE PATTILLO & APRIL MADDEN

MALAHIDE CASTLE
Location: Dublin, Ireland Time zone: UTC Currency: Euro (€)

The imposing Malahide Castle to the Charles I and was subsequently hanged, But the best-known phantoms at
north of Dublin was the ancestral seat drawn and quartered for regicide two Malahide are said to be the ghosts of
of the Talbot family for 791 years, from years after the restoration of Charles Walter Hussey, Lord Galtrim, and his
1185, when the land was first granted to II. It’s said that Corbett’s spirit not only love, Lady Matilda Plunkett. According
Richard Talbot by Henry II of England, appears in the castle’s great hall on the to legend, Hussey was killed by a love
until 1976 when the estate was sold to anniversary of his execution, but that rival on his way to his wedding and now
the Irish state. he also occasionally manifests in full haunts the halls of Malahide, clutching
Thanks to this long history and its armour that then falls apart around him a fearful spear wound in his side
position close to the Irish capital, in four pieces, apparently reflecting the and groaning in agony. Lady Matilda
Malahide has witnessed more than its gruesome manner of his death. also haunts the castle along with her
fair share of drama and turmoil over the Another one of the castle’s ghosts second husband, with whom she had an
centuries. This included the Battle of the allegedly dates from the 16th century extremely stormy relationship – to the
Boyne in 1690, during which the Talbots and is said to be the spirit of a dwarf extent that she has reportedly been seen
came out on the side of the deposed jester called Puck who fell in love with furiously chasing his ghost through the
Catholic king, James II – only to lose all the beautiful Lady Eleanor Fitzgerald. castle corridors.
but one of the 14 male members of the He either took his own life after being The other female ghost said to haunt
family who fought that day. rejected or was murdered by her family Malahide is much more sedate. A
40 years earlier, in 1649, the castle was to prevent the lovers from eloping, beautiful young lady in white, her portrait
seized by Oliver Cromwell and given to but nonetheless he is said to be a hangs in the great hall and she has
his supporter, the MP for Yarmouth, Miles mischievous ghost who loves to prank allegedly been seen walking around the
Corbett, who signed the death warrant of visitors and appear in photographs. castle at night.

32
 DONJONS & DRAGONS

“Corbett’s spirit appears in the

castle’s great hall on the
anniversary of his execution”

Above: Malahide Castle

is said to be haunted
by five ghosts including
a white lady, a lovesick
jester called Puck and
the protagonists of a
stormy love triangle

Right: English
parliamentarian Miles
Corbett was given
the castle by Oliver
Cromwell but joined the
host of castle ghosts
after he was executed
for regicide

33
MYTH & MAGIC

LEAP CASTLE
Location: County Offaly, Ireland Time zone: UTC Currency: Euro (€)

laimed to be the most haunted site in all sword straight through his heart. The priest collapsed
of Ireland, Leap Castle hides a dark and over his altar, soaking it in his blood. To this day, the
treacherous past behinds its walls. Allegedly ghost of the priest has been seen around the chapel.
built on the site of a druid initiation site, which It’s not just the murdered priest whose spirit remains
was chosen for being the crossing of two ley at Leap Castle. The ghosts of two young girls have also
lines, it is claimed that the barrier between the physical been spotted at the site. Usually seen playing together,
and spiritual realms are particularly thin here, resulting others have reported witnessing one of the girls falling
in paranormal activity that exaggerated the site’s aura from the battlements, while the other has been seen
– both good and bad. dragging a deformed leg behind her. These sisters,
Even before it was built, the castle was bathed in Emily and Charlotte, were thought to have lived there in
blood, condemning the site to negative paranormal the 1600s.
activity. Built by the O’Bannon clan in the 13th century, More inexplicable, perhaps, is the hybrid phantom
the family was in the midst of a dilemma – two brothers that roams the grounds. Apparently as big as a sheep,
contested each other’s claim as chieftain. To solve the but with the face of a human, this demon emits the foul
issue, both brothers jumped into a rocky gorge, the stench of rotting flesh. If that’s not bad enough, in place
survivor taking the title. of eyes, the demon has empty, black pools. Nobody can
200 years later, the Earl of Kildare attempted to seize explain its terrifying presence, but it has since been
the castle several times, the last attempt succeeding in named the Elemental, and some theories claim that the
destroying part of it. The castle soon landed in the lap spirit calls back to the days of the druids. Thankfully
of the O’Carroll clan. The O’Carrolls, too, were engaged it’s said that the Elemental doesn’t appear unless you
in a serious sibling rivalry. Following the death of the provoke it.
chieftain in 1532, two sons feuded over the right to lead. Even today, the castle’s current owner, Sean Ryan,
One a warrior, the other a priest, both claimed that it reports curious goings-on. While the castle was
was their right. One day, as the priest held mass for undergoing renovations, Sean reported that ladders
some family, his brother stormed in. Outraged that the have been pushed away from walls, as well as other
priest had started the mass before all of the family had unexplained accidents that have resulted in workers’
arrived, he leapt towards the priest and plunged his broken limbs.

Below: Leap Castle in

County Offaly has seen
nearly eight centuries
of turmoil… and ghostly
reminders abound

34
 DONJONS & DRAGONS

GLAMIS CASTLE
Location: Angus, Scotland Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Although beautiful, romantic Glamis Castle of the castle is said to be haunted by the
is now perhaps best known as the childhood spectre of Earl Beardie, said to be Alexander
home of Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, Lindsay, Fourth Earl of Crawford, a man
and birthplace of Princess Margaret, it is of such evil character that on at least one
also synonymous with several ghost stories occasion he hunted one of his own servants
as a result of its connections to Scotland’s before setting his dogs on the unfortunate
dark and bloody past and mention in man, who is also said to haunt the castle.
Shakespeare’s Macbeth. According to legend, when the wicked earl
In the 11th century, Glamis was a royal and his cronies committed sacrilege by
hunting lodge where, in 1034, the Scottish playing cards on the Sabbath, it attracted
king Malcolm II was either murdered or died the attention of the devil, who disguised
after escaping a nearby battle. The castle himself as a fellow gambler and won the
remained in royal hands until 1372, when Earl’s soul, forcing him to play cards for
it was granted to Robert II’s son-in-law Sir all eternity. Perhaps the most troubling
John Lyon, Thane of Glamis, who replaced legend associated with the castle is that
the lodge with a castle. The Lyon family of the Monster of Glamis, who is said to
remained close to the royal Stewarts until have been the true heir to the earldom
the 16th century, when James V, father of but was so deformed that his parents
Mary Queen of Scots, had Janet Douglas, had him raised in secret in one of the castle’s
wife of the Sixth Lord Glamis, arrested for many hidden rooms. According to legend,
treason and witchcraft and burnt at the an unfortunate maidservant accidentally the identity of the ‘monster’ is passed on to
stake in Edinburgh Castle in July 1537. After saw the boy and had her tongue cut out to every heir to the earldom when he comes
such a violent end, it’s no wonder that many ensure that she could never tell anyone else of age, with the Queen Mother’s own father
people believe that the mysterious ‘Grey – eventually becoming yet another one of the once reportedly saying: “If you could even
Lady’ who haunts the chapel and clock tower castle’s many ghosts herself, with more than guess the nature of this castle’s secret, you
at Glamis is the wraith of the unfortunate one visitor claiming to have seen a spectral would get down on your knees and thank
Lady Janet. Meanwhile, the West Tower woman with a bleeding mouth. It’s said that God it was not yours.”

GWRYCH CASTLE
Location: Abergele,Wales Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Wales is known as “the land of castles” castle has fallen into disrepair, however,
thanks to the fact that it has more castles with its once regal marble staircase,
per square mile than any other country cold, empty rooms with peeling plaster,
in Europe, 427 of them in fact! Many date and exposed entrances to once hidden
back to the Middle Ages and are riddled passageways. Money earned from filming
with phantoms, including the capital city’s is going towards its preservation – but
fortress Cardiff Castle, Pembrokeshire’s no amount of cash can rid the estate of
creepy Carew Castle, Caerphilly Castle its ghosts. The site is rumoured to be
and the cursed Craig Y Nos. But the most haunted by Countess Winifred, who died
eerie of all is Gwrych Castle thanks to its in 1924, the ghost of a former servant
extensive size and its forlorn appearance. girl who supposedly died falling off a
Although one of Wales’ younger horse, a lady in red or white, and
fortresses (it only dates numerous other phantoms.
back 200 years), it has Many visitors have
been used as a site for TIPS reported a strange
reenactments and Book onto one of feeling of being
filming locations the castle’s regular ghost watched, bad vibes,
thanks to its hunt nights where you will and hearing the
imposing size. The be provided with paranormal sound of footsteps.
investigation equipment
and can take part in table
tapping and divination

35
 CACHTICE CASTLE
Location: Cachtice, Slovakia Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)

The notorious Hungarian countess, Elizabeth Bathory, was

a wealthy and powerful 16th century noblewoman. But
being a powerful, wealthy woman without a husband was
a terrifying notion to 16th century Europe and rumours
quickly circulated that she was a serial killer, torturing and
killing women. If the conjecture is correct, Bathory could be
responsible for the deaths of more than 600 young women
– one of the most prolific female serial killers of all time.
Whether it was a witch hunt spurred on by her enemies or
Bathory really was a bloodthirsty psychopath, the Countess
was tried and sentenced to spend the rest of her days
trapped inside the home where her victims had allegedly
met their doom – the Castle of Csejte – where she died at
age 43. Unsurprisingly, her servant accomplices didn’t get

MOOSHAM CASTLE
quite such a lenient conviction, with three sentenced to
death and only one getting off as lightly as their mistress.
Bathory has become a figure of folklore, and more and
more myths have spread about the Countess, including her
Location: Austria Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€) penchant for selecting virgins, bathing in her victims’ blood
in an attempt to stay young forever and even drinking their
Popularly known as the Witches’ Castle, Moosham was home to some vital fluids, earning her the epithets the Blood Countess and
of the darkest moments in Austrian history. Between 1675 and 1690, Countess Dracula.
its spooky walls were at the heart of the Salzburg Witch Trials, where The castle later fell into disrepair, but appeared as Count
those accused of witchcraft were tried, tortured and condemned. Orlok’s home in the iconic 1922 silent horror film, Nosferatu,
Over the 15 years of trials, more than 130 people were condemned to further cementing its link to vampires. The castle is said
death, while countless more victims suffered horrific torture, brutality to be haunted by the tormented souls of the girls that the
and abuse. Countess murdered as well as Bathory herself, and today
Curiously, most of the people accused of witchcraft were men, and you can explore the disintegrated remains of the once
the accusers weren’t particular about who their accusations fell upon; extensive fortress. In the nearby town
those who were executed varied from ten years old all the way up to of Čachtice there is a small museum
80. Arguably those who weren’t executed faced a worse fate than devoted to the Blood Countess at the
those who were. Thousands were tortured, and until their dying day, nearby town museum as well as the
they were marked as a witch. church where her body was initially
Most of those accused of witchcraft were beggars, paupers and interred at her death.
the homeless. One particularly unfortunate beggar, a 12-year-old
Below: Čachtice castle
boy, became known as Wizard Jackl. The government fiercely hunted can be seen in Nosferatu
him after he disappeared following the execution of his mother in
Right: ‘Bloodthirsty’
1675. Despite hearing rumours of the boy’s death two years later, noble Elizabeth Bathory
the government rounded up his friends on the streets under the
accusation that they’d been taught black magic by their long-
gone friend. Under torture, the children told tales of Jackl’s
power and barbarity, claiming that he could make himself
invisible, eventually convincing the government that they’d
rather not find the boy.
Moosham’s mystical credentials don’t end there. In the 19th
century, hundreds of deer and cattle were found dead all around
the castle. Naturally many residents leapt to the conclusion that
werewolves were responsible, and several castle residents were
tried and executed under the accusation that they were leading
secret double lives as werewolves.
To this day, the castle is apparently host to several paranormal
presences. Those who have visited the castle claim to have
felt someone breathing on them, while others say they’ve
been touched by some invisible being. More frequently, bangs,
footsteps and apparitions have been reported. Perhaps that’s no
‘
surprise given such history!

36
 DONJONS & DRAGONS

ELTZ CASTLE
Location: Wierschem, Germany Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

his castle was once home to a young lady family resumed their usual lives. But the knight hadn’t
named Agnes Eltz. A daughter among forgotten. For months he stewed in his resentment,
many sons, Agnes grew up around the 16th plotting how to take revenge for the slight by Agnes.
century, pretending to be a warrior with her One day, when the Eltz men went out hunting,
brothers rather than a princess. But like Braunsberg and his soldiers stormed the castle, killing
many girls of her age and status, Agnes was destined the guardsmen and attacking anyone else in sight.
for an arranged marriage from a young age. Her Agnes, more the brave soldier than a fragile maiden,
parents’ spouse of choice was the knight of Braunsberg. leapt into action, donning her brother’s suit of armour
The pair met several times, but the young girl dismissed and storming out to attack the knight. Braunsberg
him as boring and chose to ignore him. One day, fought back, dealing her a fatal blow to the chest. It was
infuriated by her lack of interest, the knight grabbed only after the battle that the knight realised that the
Agnes and forced himself upon her. Outraged, Agnes ferocious warrior he’d killed was his own betrothed. He
pushed him away and slapped him round the face – a fled the scene.
great embarrassment for her family. The knight’s Agnes’ ghost now defends her castle;
patience had worn thin, and her slap pushed him over and in turn, a phantom horseman
the edge. He stormed out of Eltz Castle, vowing revenge – the apparition of the knight
for what he considered to be disrespectful behaviour. of Braunsberg – has been
For months, the Eltz family lived in fear of an attack seen riding near the gates TIPS
– but it didn’t come. Lulled into a sense of security, the seeking forgiveness. If you visit the
castle at Eltz, you’ll
pass through the gates
at its entrance. A guard,
only visible to some, has
paced Eltz since Agnes’
brutal death many
centuries ago

Far left: Phillipp Karl

von Eltz-Kempenich,
one of the early
proprietors of this
spooky pile

Left: The majestic Eltz

Burg towers above
the river Moselle like a
fairytale… and a dark
one at that

37
 MYTH & MAGIC

HOUSKA CASTLE
Location: Blatce, Czechia Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Czech koruna

bout 50km away from Prague stands a walls – but their gory tales give an insight into what lurks
castle that seemingly serves absolutely no below, with left-handed demons clawing their way out of
purpose. Houska Castle was built in the 14th the scenes.
century by the Bohemian ruler Ottokar II. However, before the chapel’s construction, the hole
The castle changed hands several times, was involved in some sinister experiments. Attempts
enjoying a Renaissance redesign in the late-16th century, were made to fill the hole with rocks, but no matter
before falling into disrepair in the 18th century. By the how many rocks were thrown in, it never seemed to fill.
20th century, the curious legend of Houska Castle had It’s alleged that one duke summoned prisoners who
attracted the attention of one particular group of people: had been condemned to death and offered them a
the Nazis. pardon if they agreed to be lowered into the hole. Many
Unlike other fortresses of the period, it wasn’t meant to agreed, expecting to escape with their lives. They were
house the king. The castle wasn’t near any trading route mistaken. There was silence as one man was lowered
and there was no access to water. Defences were built down. Moments later, his uncontrollable screams echoed
inside the castle rather than outside – instead of keeping up from the depths. As he was hauled back out, they
people out, it seemed like the castle was meant to trap discovered his hair had turned white and he’d aged
something else in. several decades. They never found out what was in there
According to lore, this apparently pointless – it drove the prisoner to madness, and he died days later.
construction was, in fact, built over the gates of hell. A Houska Castle’s secrets don’t end there. Many visitors
Image source: Wikipedia commons / Lukáš Kalista

bottomless hole had existed at Houska for centuries, claim to have experienced supernatural encounters, from
a gateway for demons and evil beings to enter Earth the ghost of a woman that stalks the corridors, to curious
and terrorise people. The area has long been avoided animal-like presences. It’s these stories and supernatural
by locals, and even to this day the castle is given a wide sightings that struck a chord with the Nazis. From 1939
berth, with only the inquisitive daring to set enter. to 1945, Houska Castle was home to occult experiments,
Above this fateful hole stands the chapel, dedicated but records were destroyed and it’s not known what
to none other than the leader of God’s army, Archangel happened here. However, several skeletons of Nazi
Michael. Frescoes decorate the officers were discovered during renovations.

38
 DONJONS & DRAGONS

AKERSHUS FESTNING
Location: Oslo, Norway Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Norwegian kroner

Built under King Haakon V in 1299 as a whisperings and feel strange forces pushing
castle, Akershus Festning was home to them when walking along its dark corridors.
generations of Norwegian rulers and is Others have reported disembodied
an important landmark of the Norwegian voices, battle screams, sounds of rattling
capital. The fortress has withstood a number chains, footsteps, sensations of someone
of sieges and has even functioned as a breathing down their neck and strange
notorious prison where Norway’s answer smells. Legend has it that the former
to Robin Hood, Ole Høiland, committed gatekeeper of the castle, Garshol, buried a
suicide in 1848. When a prison, part of the guard dog alive at the Maiden Tower. This
castle was dubbed the Slaveriet (‘Slavery’), poor pup is now known as the Malcanisen
where prisoners were subjected to extreme (‘vicious dog’), returned from death in
hard labour, causing many a death. This the form of a vengeful spirit, and if bitten
is perhaps the reason why the fortress by him you’ll die within three months.
has earned the title of Norway’s most Other ghosts include the Mantelgeisten
haunted building. Staff have claimed to hear – a faceless, cloaked woman seen at the
Margaretasalen – and the horse of a
drunken Swedish man, who was gunned
down when he attempted to storm the
castle. But it’s the Virgin Tower, the
castle’s highest tower, that’s said to be TIPS
the most rife with paranormal activity. If you are keen
to delve further into
Predjama’s caves, there
Left: This gate is said to
be prowled by a vengeful are extended tours – but
dog spirit not during the winter
months, as the bats are
not to be disturbed in
their slumber!

PREDJAMA CASTLE
Location: Inner Carniola, Slovenia Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

This medieval stronghold is built inside a from Erasmus, many have reported footsteps
bat-filled cave which has been inhabited by and voices, perhaps from the many souls
humans since Paleolithic times; and it’s also who met their untimely demise at the castle,
said to be riddled with ghosts. The original whether through violent ends or simply the
13th century castle was damaged from natural disaster of 1511.
sieges and rebuilt in the 1500s only to be
nearly destroyed by a massive earthquake in
1511. The current structure is a Renaissance
castle, built in 1570. As the castle was built
as an impregnable safe haven, designed to
protect its residents from unwanted attacks,
it has some rather interesting booby traps,
such as holes in the ceiling of the entrance
tower where boiling oil would be poured onto
enemies, and a dungeon where bones have
been discovered, a small court room and a
torture chamber. According to psychics, the
original owner of the castle, Erasmus of Lueg,
a Robin-Hood-type knight in shining armour
who was eventually murdered in his own
home, still haunts Predjama seeking revenge
towards the servant who betrayed him. Aside

39
MYTH & MAGIC

DRAGSHOLM CASTLE
Location: Zealand, Denmark Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Danish kroner

Built in about 1215 by the Bishop of Dragsholm Castle was James

Roskilde, Dragsholm Castle’s history is Hepburn, 4th earl of Boswell,
as rich and interesting as it is morbid. the third husband of Mary,
During the Middle Ages, the castle was Queen of Scots. Caught in Norway in from the dungeons of the castle, while
overhauled and thoroughly fortified, 1573, the earl found himself transported there are two ladies who haunt the
making it the strongest castle at to Dragsholm on the order of King corridors, one a disgraced daughter of
the time. As a testament to its Frederik II of Denmark. Here, he a noble, the other a grateful worker. The
strength, it stood resolute was tied to a pillar and was Grey Lady, who had worked in the castle
against the fiercely provided with only enough for years, and went to work one day
destructive armies of TIPS food and water to keep him complaining of toothache. Her master
Christoffer, Count of As well as a alive. It’s alleged that he had given her some relief for the pain, but
Oldenburg, during the museum, Dragsholm went insane, dying almost tragically the woman died. Yet thankful
Count’s feud of 1534 Castle is also a hotel, so five years after capture. for the help her master had offered her,
to 1536. you can rent a room Witnesses claim to have she stuck around.
After the Reformation for a night seen the ghost of the The White Lady, however, met her
that followed, Dragsholm disgraced Earl of Boswell maker after disgracing her father. Calina
Castle fell into the hands riding into the courtyard Bovles, the daughter of a noble, had
of the state, where it was on his horse and carriage, fallen in love with a mere commoner and
transformed into a prison the sound of the horse’s hooves had become pregnant with his child.
for noble and high-ranking prisoners. audible across the castle. As evidence of her liaison grew, her
Here, each prisoner received a cell built As well as James Hepburn, there are father realised the atrocity that she had
especially for them, while cells in the apparently more than 99 other ghosts committed and locked her in a room until
north east tower of the castle were that frequent the castle’s hallways. The she died. Incidentally, during renovations,
equipped with toilets and windows. Mad Squire, a noble-born Dane who died the skeleton of a woman wearing a white
Perhaps the most infamous prisoner of at the castle, has been heard moaning dress was uncovered in the 20th century.

CHÂTEAU DE BRISSAC T IP S
The ch
offers
breakf
âteau
bed an
d
Location: Loire Valley, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€) includ
ast (w
ith a to
ed) ur
brave e – if you are
The gloriously ornate Château de Brissac has vision of the Green Lady terrifying nough spot, with over one
to stay
the nig
dominated the Loire Valley for centuries. Built visitors. After the château was rebuilt ht hundred blows from
initially as a castle in the 11th century, it was in the 1400s, Jacques de Brezé, the Jacques’s sword
rebuilt in the 1400s, and then again in 1611. son of the man that commissioned the delivering them to their
However, behind this impressive Baroque redesign, inherited the building. Jacques messy deaths. However,
façade, the hidden secrets of the château’s married a woman named Charlotte, the others claim that Jacques
tragic past are kept. favoured illegitimate daughter of Charles VII waited, murdering the pair separately. In this
A double murder that took place in the of France. Yet their marriage had not been story, Charlotte was allegedly killed in the
15th century has haunted residents, with the a happy one. Despite having five children, château’s chapel, brutally strangled by the
Charlotte’s eye wandered, landing cuckold.
upon her husband’s huntsman, Pierre To this day, the ghost of Charlotte has
de Lavergne, and their frenzied love been spotted roaming the halls. Known as
affair began. the Green Lady, it’s claimed that half of
According to legend, Jacques her face has already rotted away, leaving a
walked in on his wife and her lover blackened corpse with empty eye sockets
intertwined, after a servant came to and no nose. Visitors to the suites that are
him one evening after he returned available to overnight guests have remarked
from a hunting trip and told him the that they’ve heard the dying screams and
tale of his wife and her commoner moans of the murdered couple along the
lover. It was the final straw. Here, corridors in the early hours of the morning.
records become murky. Some claim It’s said Jacques left the château after the
that the lovers were murdered on the deadly deed, unable to bear these sounds.

40
 DONJONS & DRAGONS

CHÂTEAU DE TIFFAUGES
Location: Tiffauges, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

nown as the Château de Barbe-bleue at least one kidnapping, with Gilles de Sillé also being
(Bluebeard’s Castle) Château de Tiffauges enlisted to murder children after they were assaulted.
was where the infamous serial killer Gilles de But it was Rais’ bodyguard, Poitou, who was most often
Rais committed his atrocious crimes. A lord his accomplice, later testifying against him in court and
and knight, born Gilles de Montmorency- giving a graphic description of his master’s atrocities,
Laval, Rais was a companion-in-arms of Joan of Arc inciting terror upon his juvenile victims and torture.
during the Hundred Year’s War (1337–1453) and was The parents of the missing children, witnesses
awarded the title Marshal of France. After he retired who had seen Rais’ servants dumping the children’s
from the military he quickly spent all of his wealth on bodies, and his own cohort also testified at the trial,
frivolity and was accused of dabbling in the occult – he and following threat of torture, Rais himself came clean
attempted to summon a demon in the lower hall of the and was sentenced to death. In his own confession,
château, but it appears he wasn’t particularly good Rais reportedly admitted that “when the said children
at sorcery. Rumours began circulating that Rais was were dead, he kissed them and those who had the most
responsible for the disappearance of a large number of handsome limbs and heads he held up to admire them,
children around the Tiffauges area during the 1430s. and had their bodies cruelly cut open and took delight at
Finally, in 1440, a violent dispute with a clergyman the sight of their inner organs; and very often when the
verified the rumours and his true nature as a paedophile children were dying he sat on their stomachs and took
and serial killer, who had kidnapped and raped a pleasure in seeing them die and laughed”.
number of young children (mostly boys) only to then He was found guilty of sodomy, necrophilia, paedophilia
have them killed or kill them himself. An ecclesiastical and slaughtering over 100 children and sentenced
investigation led to the exposure of his crimes, of which to death in 1440 by hanging and burning. Like most
Rais confessed, had begun in 1432, following the death medieval criminals, we can’t say for sure whether or
of his grandfather. His cousins Gilles de Sillé and Roger not he was guilty or just set up by the church in order
de Briqueville assisted Rais in for them to gain his wealth and usurp his power,
however, most historians believe he was indeed
Bea rd’s guilty due to his own confession. Today the
Left: ‘Blue
Castle’ in present
day Château de Tiffauges is believed to be haunted by
Vendée now lies in his vengeful spirit.
ruins, but itslegend
remains

Below: The cr
imes
that Gilles de
Rais
was tried for
are
horrific even
by
medieval stan
dards

Image source: Getty; Alamy’ Wikipedia commons/Public Domain

41
MYTH & MAGIC

QUINTA DE REGALEIRA
Location: Sintra, Portugal Time zone: UTC Currency: Euro (€)

art of Portugal’s Cultural can be found throughout the house appreciate this sentiment is by
Landscape of Sintra – a and grounds. looking up from the bottom of
UNESCO World Heritage The Regaleira house itself was the Initiation Well, a 27-metre-
Site – Quinta da Regaleira a summer retreat for Carvalho deep (89-feet-deep) underground
is a unique palace that Monteiro, and is a fantastical tower. Travelling through the dark
has to be seen to be believed. fusion of Manueline, Gothic, subterranean tunnels to reach
It was built at the behest of Renaissance and Baroque design. the well, and ascending its ten
eccentric Brazilian millionaire Its imposing facade features many levels via the grand spiral staircase
António Augusto Carvalho intricate carvings, inscriptions towards the sky above, is an almost
Monteiro (known as ‘Moneybags and sculptures. Close to the main otherworldly experience. And that’s
Monteiro’) in the late 19th century, house sits the Roman Catholic the idea. The well is intended to
with the design combining his chapel, decorated with frescoes, portray the link between Earth
passions for nature, mythology and stuccoes and stained glass and the heavens above. Visitors
philosophy. The result is an estate windows. However, the most are welcome to explore on their
unlike anything that you’ll find intriguing features of the estate lie own, but audio and guided tours
anywhere else. in – and under – the grounds, in the will offer much greater insight and
The site has been open to the shape of the bizarre and complex reveal some of Regaleira’s secrets
public since 1998, after it was routes around the beautiful that otherwise remain hidden in
acquired and restored by the gardens and grounds. plain sight. Guided tours will teach
local government. Visitors can A maze of footpaths connect you a great deal about the estate,
explore the bewitching buildings, the site’s many monuments. its history and construction, and
mysterious monuments and But there are also underground will help put the symbolic design
fairy-tale garden surroundings walkways in tunnels that link some details into context. It’s a good idea
while scouting out examples of areas with caves and grottoes. to book in advance to make sure
hidden symbolism along the way. Quinta da Regaleira’s design is you secure a spot.
Carvalho Monteiro’s fascination intended to provide a connection There’s also the incongruously
with mysticism is reflected in the between the physical and spiritual, modern option of an augmented
motifs and iconography related and to reflect a journey towards reality tour. Simply download the
to alchemy, the Knights Templar, enlightenment. The best place to Quinta da Regaleira app to your
Freemasons and more that device to follow it.

Below: The Initiation

Well (which inspired the
sets of The Witcher)
is perhaps Regaleira’s
most beguiling feature

42
 DONJONS & DRAGONS

ALCÁZAR OF SEGOVIA
Location: Segovia, Spain Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

This impressive medieval fortified Alfonso X of Castile – nicknamed both

palace overloooks the Castilian city ‘the Astrologer’ and ‘the Wise’ – once
of Segovia from its perch high above. summoned his advisors to council in
Castilian princess Isabella (later queen 1258. During their meeting, the king fell
of a unified Spain) was famed for her to boasting of his own wisdom, claiming
piety, but one of her predecessors in the that if God had asked his advice during
Castilian royal family is thought to have the Creation, he would have made a
provoked the wrath of God. much better world than the one the men
found themselves in. A monk named
Antonio immediately called on the king
to take back his boast, but he refused.
Suddenly, a huge storm blew up out of
nowhere and destroyed the hall that the
king’s council was meeting in.
It’s said that in penance the king had
the destroyed parts of the castle rebuilt,
including motifs that represented the
Franciscan order of the wise monk who
had tried to save him from his hubris.

PALACIO DE LINARES
Location: Madrid, Spain Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

This 19th century palace is known for its conjecture, and there is no evidence the
sweeping marble staircase, French-inspired couple were related nor that they had any
architecture and ghostly apparitions. The children. Nevertheless, the myth persists
first Marquises of Linares built the palace as and the palace is said to be haunted by not
his residence, and it is said he and his wife only the couple but their child too, who is
still haunt their former home. According heard singing nursery rhymes and calling
to legend, the couple were half-siblings, for her parents.
unbeknownst to
them before their
marriage. Upon
discovering this,
they vowed to live
in chastity but their
passion for one
another was too
strong and they
bore a daughter. To
avoid scandal, they
had her murdered
and bricked up
behind the palace
walls, with the
couple dying of
grief by committing
suicide merely
months later. This,
of course, is merely

43
 A DRAGON?
These castles and estates are said to be the haunts and homes
of monstrous beasts from myth and legend

SCHLOSS DRACHENBURG
Location: Königswinter, Germany Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

This picture-perfect palace dates to the

golden age of German Baroque castles –
which means that it’s still shy of 200 years
old. In the 19th century there was a vogue
for fairytale castles among the ruling princes
and kings of imperial Germany. This one,
however, has a legend to back it up. Schloss

LAMBTON
Drachenburg is built on the Drachenfels , the
hills on which the legendary hero Siegfried
was believed to have killed the dragon Fáfnir.
Location: Lambton, England, UK Having slaughtered the beast, the hero
Time zone: UTC bathed in its blood in the hope of gaining
Currency: Pound sterling (£) immortality. Like Achilles however, he missed
a spot. A part of his back was left vulnerable,
The earldom of Durham only goes and after a quarrel between the queens
back to 1833, but the Lambton Kriemhild and Brünhild, the Burgundian
family who carry the title have been warrior Hagen murdered Siegfried.
linked to the eastate and village

LENZBURG CASTLE
that bear their name for centuries.
Legend has it that one of their
ancestors, John Lambton, once
chose to go fishing on a Sunday
instead of to church. His only catch Location: Aargau, Switzerland Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Swiss franc
was a small and horrid-looking
creature that a passerby told him This beautiful castle is one of Switzerland’s home to a dragon that terrorised the villagers
was in fact the devil. most important, dating from the 11th century. living below. One day two knights arrived,
John grew up and joined the The almost-circular hill that it’s built upon the brothers Guntram and Wolfram. Baiting
Crusades, but on his return he found was said to be the location of a cave that was the beast from its lair they defeated it, and in
the village, estate and castle being gratitude the villagers named the two
terrorised by the Lambton Worm Counts of Lenzburg, and encouraged
(dragon) – the creature he caught them to build their castle atop the hill.
so long ago. A good witch told him Today that castle is a tourist
how to kill the beast, but it required attraction, boasting magnificent
a sacrifice. John arranged with grounds, a history museum, and
his father that this would be their interactive children’s play areas,
favourite hunting dog, but when the including an exhibit featuring the
time came to release it the old man peaceful dragon Fauchi, said to
forgot in his excitement. To destroy have hatched from an egg laid by
the Worm, John was forced to kill his the original dragon. He even has a
father instead, and for that a deadly children’s festival named after him.
curse was laid on nine generations Unlike many other castle dragons of
of Lambton heirs. legend, Fauchi seems to be a friendly
creature intent on fun!

44
 DONJONS & DRAGONS

CHÂTEAU DE MÉLUSINE
Location: Saint-Jean d’Angle, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

he half-fairy woman Melusine is a figure from Raymondin was lucky in love: Melusine’s fairy magic
Arthurian myth. The daughter of a Scottish gave her the ability to build incredible castles, one
king and a fairy queen, Melusine’s family was of which is the castle of Saint-Jean d’Angle, near La
broken apart when her father contravened a Rochelle, which today offers a truly immersive 12th
sacred promise he’d made to his wife. Raised century experience. Visitors are clad in the clothes
in the mystical realm of Avalon, Melusine and her sisters of princesses and knights as they explore interactive
plotted to murder their father. exhibits of medieval life, including catapult shooting,
When Melusine’s mother discovered the plot she games, a farmyard, archery and much more. The
exiled her daughter from Britain and cursed her: every activities are all suitable for children.
Saturday, the lower half of Melusine’s body would turn Melusine’s children had less fun, however. Raymondin
into that of a two-tailed dragon. If she ever marries, her grew suspicious of his wife hiding away on Saturdays and
husband must never see this. spied on her in her bath. Then, during an argument about
Melusine turns up again in Poitiers, France, where she their children, he revealed what he had seen in front of
meets Count Raymondin of Poitiers. The two fall in love, the whole court. The distraught Melusine transformed
and when he proposes marriage, Melusine explains that into a dragon and flew off, only returning in the depths of
he can never see her on a Saturday or he will invoke a night to nurse her two youngest children. The Plantagenet
mysterious curse, of whuch she can tell him no more. kings of England claimed her as an ancestress through
Wildly in love, the Count agrees. their links with the royal line of Anjou.

Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy, Getty

Below: This medieval fortress

was allegedly built by the
magical Melusine, who
transformed into a dragon
when her husband broke a
promise he made

45
 BRAN CASTLE
Location: Bran

Bran Castle is perched upon a cliff at

the very edge of where Transylvania
borders with Wallachia. Vlad “the
Impaler” Tepes (nicknamed Dracula,
meaning son of the devil), 15th
century Voivode of Wallachia, never
actually lived in Bran Castle, but that
hasn’t stopped it from being dubbed
Dracula’s Castle. The fortress dates
back to the 13th century, with the
stone castle being erected during the
14th century. But it’s the surrounding
landscape that’s really terrifying.
Romanian myths tell of werewolves,
the Strigoi, the Iele, the Sântoaderi,
the Solomonari and more all lurking
across Transylvania – and the castle’s
permanent exhibit “A history of dreads
in Transylvania” will introduce you to
these frightening folktales.

beyond
the
Transylvania, the homeland of Count Dracula, is a historic region in the heart of
Romania– a country riddled with not only vampires but ghosts, witches and more

CORVIN CASTLE
Hunedoara

Some say that the Voivode of Transylvania John Hunyadi’s

enormous castle was where Vlad was once imprisoned
for several years. Legend has it that Dracula kept himself
Location: alive by eating rats and began to entirely lose his mind,
Romania causing his blood-thirst to intensify. Along with Vlad, many
Time zone: others were held captive in this massive fortress, including
UTC+2 three Turkish men enslaved to build a well. Promised to
Currency: be set free once they found water, they were betrayed
Romanian leu and left to die in the castle’s dungeons, inscribing “you
Tips: Fly in to now have water, but you don’t have a heart” on the wall.
Budapest and book The Capistrano Tower is haunted by a monk who was
a day trip to explore
Transylvania and
bricked up alive after spying on a nobleman and many have
Dracula’s haunts all claimed to experience numerous paranormal activities
in one go throughout Corvin, including footsteps, screams, orbs,
apparitions, shadows and feelings of dread.

46
 THE LAND BEYOND THE FORESTS

CHIAJNA MONASTERY
Săbăreni Road, Bucharest

This cursed church was supposedly mistaken There have also been more recent tragedies;
for a fortress by the Turks before it had even in 1967 the body of a teenager was found
been consecrated. They burned its contents murdered and in 2006 the church was the
and threw its bell into the Dâmboviţa River, backdrop to a horrific triple homicide.
which can still be heard ringing at night when
the moon is full. Originally, the church would
have been an important place of worship but
it was abandoned during the Black Plague
– sufferers of which are said to have sought
refuge and died at the monastery. Within
its crumbling plaster is an angelic figure,

THE
reportedly the Lady Chiajna’s daughter, who
was murdered by her command after the
child refused to marry her chosen suiter.
WITCHES POND
Boldu-Creteasca Forest, Bucharest
“ T his tiny, myster ious pool is said to be kept alive by
Călugăreasca Forest (located in Mehedinţi
r ituals per for med in June at the Saznienele summer county) is said to be cursed, its mulberry
solstice celebrations by witches” trees spirits enriched by the blood of
murdered monks whose souls are forever
stuck in the thickets. On the outskirts of
Bucharest there lies a curious water hole
deep inside Boldu-Creteasca Forest – the
POENARI very place where Dracula’s namesake, Vlad

FORTRESS
the Impaler, was decapitated. Known as
Witches Pond, this tiny, mysterious pool
never changes size, shape nor depth and its
Location: Foothill of Făgăraș surrounding area appears to have a climate
Mountains, Arefu all of its own. It is said to be kept alive by
rituals performed in June at the Saznienele
Poienari was Vlad’s true home. Now summer solstice celebrations by witches.
lying in ruins, the abandoned castle Apparently animals refuse to drink from its
is situated high atop a mountain and cursed water and women who wished for
accessed by climbing 1,480 concrete abortions would bathe in the cursed waters
stairs. The notorious ruler gained to rid themselves of their pregnancy.
his nickname as Vlad the Impaler

THE DEVIL’S
from his brutal tendency to impale
enemies on spikes, imitations of
which can be seen as you climb the
steps to his old haunt. The castle
PRECIPICE
itself is said to be haunted and Poiana Trestiei, Cosminele
during the Communist era, many
tourists would stay overnight within Lurking in the landscape about 100km south
its ruins in an attempt to witness of Brasov, lies cursed treasure guarded by
something paranormal. Vincent Lee ghosts. Legend has it that outlaws buried the
Hillyer, husband of Iranian royal stolen fortune and cast a protection spell so
Fatemeh Pahlavi, famously reported that nobody else would ever find it. It appears
significant drops in temperature, they never even came back for it themselves,
the smell of rotten flowers, bizarre though, and so the area is forever damned.
nightmares, inexplicable keratosis, an Those attempting to find the buried treasure
overpowering feeling of being watched have reported being met with terrifying
and having been bitten by seemingly entities with the bodies of men but the heads
nothing. of bulls and demonic eyes. Some have found
themselves far away from the spot, with no
Images © Getty; Alamy

recollection of how they got there and their

clothing in shreds. Others have supposedly
been driven mad or met with nightmares
until the end of their days.

47
MYTH AND MAGIC

Follow in Faust’s
The legend of Faust has haunted the European imagination
for five centuries and it continues to resonate today, taking
people on a path from temptation to transcendence

WORDS EDOARDO ALBERT

Below: What would

you give up to get your
heart’s desire? That is
the question at the heart
of the legend of Faust

48
 FOLLOW IN FAUST’S FOOTSTEPS

want to know everything.” The young

scholar stared up at the blank ceiling
of his lonely room. “I want to have “Faust is gif ted whatever he wants: money, fame,
everything.” He looked around at the women, success, knowledge and power. In retur n, Satan
penury his years of study had brought
him to. “But I know nothing and have less.” requires that little, immater ial thing: his soul”
The noose dangled from the ceiling. He could
end it now. Leave this sorry world and his
futile life.
But there was someone who knew that But the day of reckoning approaches and, (‘crony’). The book was hugely popular. It
which he wanted to know. There was despite his wriggling and searching, there is was reprinted and expanded, and an English
someone who could give him everything he no way to break the deal. At the agreed time, translation appeared in 1592 which attracted
wanted. All he had to do was find something Mephistopheles returns and takes what was the attention of the Elizabethan playwright,
to trade with him. his: he drags Faust’s soul to hell. Christopher Marlowe. His play, The Tragical
“With what can I buy everything?” He In 1587 a chapbook was published in History of D. Faustus (1604) turned Faust into
looked into the dirty mirror. He saw there, Germany. Its author was, and remains, a figure of hubristic tragedy (the play is still
through the cracks and grime, Dr Johann unknown. Chapbooks were cheap booklets, performed today).
Faustus: scholar, astrologer – necromancer. crudely illustrated with woodcuts, that were In the 19th century, the great German
And Dr Faustus smiled. “With my soul.” highly popular in the first centuries after the polymath, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe,
This is the essence of the legend of Faust: invention of the printing press. They brought took the Faust legend as the story frame for
a scholar who dabbles in magic makes a stories within the budget of ordinary people his masterpiece, bringing the story to a new
pact with the devil, in the form of his prince, and were, in effect, the comics of their day. century. The legend has continued to inspire
Mephistopheles. Faust is gifted whatever This particular chapbook was called writers, filmmakers and artists to this day:
he wants: money, fame, women, success, Historia von D. Johann Fausten and it was the story of the man who sold his soul to the
knowledge and power. In return, Satan supposedly based upon the life of a real man, devil for knowledge and power, its continuing
requires that little, immaterial thing: his soul. the alchemist Johann Faust who lived from relevance anchored in the deep realisation
For years, Faust rides the waves of his deal: c.1480 to 1540 and became notorious in his that Faust’s story in some way mirrors the
the world is his banquet and he feasts on it. lifetime for calling the devil his schwager story of Western civilisation itself.

THE BROCKEN
Location: Saxony-Anhalt, Germany Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

Even without its associations with Faust the believed path that Goethe himself particularly strenuous, conditions on the
and witches, the Brocken is an eerie took when he climbed the Brocken on Brocken can change rapidly. However, the
place – at the right times. It’s the highest 10 December 1777, walking through well-maintained footpath allows walkers
mountain in northern Germany and while deep snow and reaching the summit at to ascend the mountain even in winter
no Everest, its microclimate is harsh, with quarter past one. While the climb is not and snow.
an average annual temperature of only 2.9
centigrade and snow cover at the summit
for months on end. Visit when it is quiet,
with the mist cloaking the landscape
and the Brocken Spectre visible, and the
mountain can seem truly uncanny, the
place where witches might well gather.
And that, according to legend, is
exactly what happens on Walpurgis
Night (the night of 30 April). On that
date witches gather for a bacchanalian
celebration with the devil. In Goethe’s
Faust, Mephistopheles takes Faust to the
revels to distract him from the loss of his
beloved Gretchen, tempting him with a
naked young witch.
There is now an official eight-kilometre
footpath, the Goethe Way, from Torfhaus
to the summit of the Brocken that follows

49
MYTH AND MAGIC

FAUSTSCHLOSSL
Location: Oberlandshaag, Feldkirchen an der Donau, Austria
Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

n the face of it, this lovely The folk tales go on to say that Faust
hotel set on a wooded hillside tried to trick the devil from their pact by
overlooking the Danube looks giving him increasingly difficult tasks to
better suited to a romantic carry out: a bowling alley on the River
weekend break than being a Danube, a new bridge every time he
stop on a mysterious Faustian tour. But wanted to cross the river, a new road to
looks can deceive. While it is no doubt a Neuhaus. Unfortunately for Faust, the
romantic hotel, its romance has its basis devil accomplished all these tasks with
in some of the myths that assembled ease. Then the appointed time came
around the legendary Johann Faust and the devil returned to claim Johann
after his death. According to these tales, Faust. He grabbed the alchemist and
Faust, while travelling in the area, liked flew with him up the mountain, where
what he saw so much that he ordered he tore Faust apart. The spot where that
the devil to build him a house there, happened, the Devil’s Hole, is still there;
which was first recorded as Fauststöckl ask at the hotel and they will show you
in 1500. where to find it.

Above: The majestic

River Danube flows
past the hotel,
providing a scenic
backdrop for guests

50
 FOLLOW IN FAUST’S FOOTSTEPS

FAUSTŮV DŮM (FAUST HOUSE)

Location: Charles Square, Prague, Czech Republic Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Czech koruna

The Faust House in Prague’s historic their work, Dee, Kelley and
Charles Square is a magnificent Baroque their wives went to Europe,
palace. Today it houses a hospital for the ending up at the court of
medical faculty of Charles University and, the Holy Roman Emperor,
unfortunately, it’s not open to the public. Rudolf II, in Prague, who
Although the original Faust travelled widely was interested in their
there’s no record of him visiting Prague. claims that they could
However, many of its owners over the transmute elements through
centuries were interested in alchemy and the philosopher’s stone.
secretly practised various forms of magic, However, Dee and Kelley
inviting famous practitioners to stay with also attracted the attention
them. The most famous of these was Edward of the papal nuncio, and
Kelley (1555 – 1597/8). In December 1581, they eventually had to
Kelley had begun an extraordinary spiritual flee lest they be tried for
partnership with John Dee, the Elizabethan necromancy. The partnership between
mathematician and magus. Kelley was the
medium through whom Dee communicated
Kelley and Dee eventually dissolved when
Dee was told by Kelley that the two men had
AUERBACH’S
with angels. Seeking financial support for to share everything – including their wives. KELLAR,
LEIPZIG,
GERMANY
Location: Leipzig, Saxony, Germany
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)

The young Goethe, a student at

Leipzig University from 1765 to 1768,
was fond of wine. His favourite wine
bar was Auerbachs Keller, set near the
market. Auerbachs was old even when
Goethe frequented it, having been
founded in 1438. It took its name from
Heinrich Stromer, rector of Leipzig
University, who was familiarly called
Doctor Auerbach from his birthplace.
Doctor Auerbach was a firm believer
in the health benefits of wine, a belief
shared by his students, including
Goethe. The Cellar was decorated

FAUST MUSEUM
with two paintings of the legend of
Faust: Faust drinking with students
and Faust, astride a wine barrel, riding
from the wine bar. When Goethe wrote
Location: Knittlingen, Baden-Württemberg, Germany his own version of Faust, he set a
scene in the Cellar.
Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

The man upon whom the legend of Faust Faust should be in Knittlingen. The museum
was based, the alchemist Johann Faust, was is in a 19th-century half-timbered building,
(probably) born in Knittlingen in Germany in the old town hall. It contains comprehensive
Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy

either 1466 or 1480/81. In keeping with the exhibits and archives about the historical
mysteries wound round the legend, there Faust and the burgeoning legends that
may have been two Fausts, both of whom attached themselves to him after his
were alchemists and magicians, living at death, probably from a failed alchemical
the end of the 15th and the start of the 16th experiment that left his body mangled, as
centuries. So it’s appropriate that the world’s well as the later stories and writers who have
only museum dedicated to the legend of been attracted to the tale.

51
 Inaccessible mountain ranges and hidden valleys are
home to many mysteries and dark folk tales

WORDS BEN GAZUR

Above: With few

people living in
the mountains,
many of their
secrets have
remained hidden
for centuries

52
 MOUNTAIN MYSTERIES

THE ALPS
Location: France, Switzerland, Italy, Germany, Austria, Slovenia
Time zone: Various Currency: Euro (€), Swiss Franc

The Alps have presented an almost impenetrable

barrier to travellers for millennia. Those who
roamed them often returned with uncanny tales.
Dragons were seen soaring through the clouds
that cling to the mountaintops. In the 15th century
a dragon became lost in a storm and slammed THE PYRENEES
into the ground near Mount Pilatus and its blood
turned into a miraculous stone. Today it is thought Location: Border of France and Spain
this was actually a meteorite. Time zone: UTC+1
Wild Men were thought to prey on unwary
Currency: Euro (€)
Above: The
travellers. The deep gorges of the Alps made first bridge
Classical writers said that the
travelling to remote villages dangerous. A bridge across this
perilous gorge Pyrenees mountains took their
across the Schöllenen Gorge was supposedly
was allegedly name from a princess called
built by the devil when he was promised the life built by the
Pyrene. According to one legend
of the first to cross it. The villagers tricked him by devil himself
she was beloved by the hero
sending a goat across first.
Herakles but died – so Herakles
built a huge funeral mound for her:
the mountains. Other tales say
Herakles assaulted Pyrene so she
fled to the mountains, gave birth

THE BROCKEN to a monstrous snake and died.

Intriguingly there are tales of a giant
snake which once dwelled in a cave
Location: Saxony-Anhalt, Germany Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€) near Hautacam that terrorised local
shepherds by eating their flocks.
The Brocken, or Blocksberg, is the which shroud the summit. Known as the Later legends say that the
highest peak in northern Germany and is Brocken Spectre, similar terrifying visions mountains are sleeping giants and
associated with a number of mysterious have been reported from mountains that when storms rage you can
folkloric traditions. The writer Goethe around the world. Sometimes the head hear their cries. The French hero
described witches riding on goats to visit of this phantom is surrounded by a halo Roland supposedly fought a giant
Brocken on Walpurgis Night to hold an of light or rainbows, known in German as named Ferragut in the passes of
unholy festival with the devil presiding heiligenschein. Science tells us that these the mountains. It was at the Battle
over the feast. figures are nothing more than a chance of Roncevaux Pass in the Pyrenees
For centuries hikers who climb to coming together of conditions when the that Roland himself was killed.
the peak of the Brocken have reported sun is low in the sky. When the sun casts a Basajaun, the Lord of the Woods,
sightings of a vast and terrifying figure climber’s shadow into the water droplets is a gigantic man covered in hair.
who looms up at them from the frequent of a mist it creates the illusion of a giant Despite his fearsome appearance he
fogs and mists stalking their footsteps. The shining light is said to protect Basque shepherds
around the spectre’s head is caused by who leave crusts of bread for him to
the water droplets acting as lenses which eat. A bearded man called Tantugou
refract and reflect the sun’s light back at roams the French Pyrenees valleys
the observer. and guards flocks and fields from
The mountain is also marked by predators and thieves.
several rocky features that have created The Simiots were a group of
folk tales. The Teufelskanzel (‘Devil’s beasts with lion bodies and ape
Pulpit’) is a granite outcrop that Satan heads who streamed out of the
is said to have stood on when preaching mountains one day and attacked
to the witches who gathered to hear towns and villages. They climbed
him. An altar dedicated to the devil down chimneys and carried
was supposedly once set up on the off infants. Other caves in the
rocks there. A nearby rock is named the mountains are supposedly guarded
Hexenaltar (‘Witches’ Altar’) and was by fairy-like creatures who do not
said to be the site of diabolical ritual take kindly to visitors.
sacrifices by evil sorceresses.

5353
 SLIABH AN
IARAINN
Location: County Leitrim, Ireland
Time zone: UTC
Currency: Euro (€)

Sliabh an Iarainn, meaning “iron

mountain”, is known for its iron ore
that has been mined for centuries,

MOUNT IDA
including by divine metalworkers.
A collection of Irish texts made in
the Middle Ages, known as the Book
of the Taking of Ireland, describes how Location: Crete, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€)
a race of supernatural beings called
the Tuatha Dé Danann first came to Mount Ida is the highest peak on Crete, the performed a loud war dance outside the cave,
Ireland. They came in ships that sailed island where the god Zeus was born and which drowned out the noise and protected
on the air and descended through raised. Because Zeus’ father was known to Zeus from his father. When Zeus reached
heavy clouds to land on the summit of devour his children, Zeus was whisked away adulthood he slew his father and became the
Sliabh an Iarainn. This arrival blessed and concealed within a cave on the slopes of king of the Greek gods.
the mountain. When the people Mount Ida. The young god was placed in the Archaeological evidence shows that
already living in Ireland heard of this protection of two nymphs called Ida (from Mount Ida has been a centre of worship for
arrival a battle was fought below the whom the mountain takes its name) and thousands of years with pilgrims climbing the
mountain and the Tuatha Dé Danann Adrasteia. They fed Zeus on wild honey and breathtaking trails that wind up the mountain
won. The iron mines of Sliabh an milk from the she-goat Amalthea. to the summit.
Iarainn were first dug by Gobán Saor It was said that within the mountain
for the newcomers, and he is said there lived a group of spirits known as the Above: Mount Ida
looms over the island of
to have used the iron to build many Dactyls who were famed for working with Crete and has inspired
landmarks around the country. metal they dug from the Earth. To hide the religious awe since
antiquity
crying sound of the infant Zeus these spirits

SLIEVENAMON
Location: County Tipperary, Ireland Time zone: UTC Currency: Euro (€)

Slievenamon, known as Sliabh been seen as the homes of

Below: The burial cairns
na mBan – “the mountain of fairies or entry points to the
on Slievenamon are said
to be home to demons, women” – in Irish Gaelic, is underworld. In one legend of
gods, and fairies closely associated with the Fionn mac Cumhaill he was
mythical hero Fionn mac camping on the mountain
Cumhaill (Finn MacCool). The with his men when a demon
name of the mountain is said of the underworld crept from
to come from a race run by one of the mounds and stole
women seeking to marry Finn. a pig. Finn chased him and
Whoever reached the top first had his thumb on the doorway
would win Finn’s hand. As Finn when the door was slammed
was in love with one woman on it. In pain, he sucked the
he revealed a shortcut up the thumb. Since the thumb had
mountain and so she won. been in the underworld Finn
The mountain is the site of sucked on the hidden wisdom
several ancient burial mounds of the dead and was granted
which have traditionally superhuman knowledge.

54
 MOUNTAIN MYSTERIES

Below: The slopes of

Cadair Idris supposedly
inspire either madness
or poetic skill to those
who sleep on them

CADAIR IDRIS
Location: Meirionnydd, Gwynedd, Wales, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound
sterling (£)

he rugged landscape of Cadair Idris means “Chair of Idris” in

Cadair Idris is steeped in Welsh and may refer to a prince called
legend. Anyone who sleeps Idris who won a battle against the
on the summit of this Irish on the mountain. Alternatively it
mountain is said to awake as may be named for the giant Idris who
either a poet or a madman. studied the stars from the peak. It is
Folklore says that King Arthur, who once said that the boulders at the base of
lived on the mountain, threw a dragon the mountain, carried there by ancient
into a bottomless lake nearby, where it glaciers, were actually shaken from Idris’
is still trapped. boots when he cleaned them.

55
MYTH & MAGIC

JURA
MOUNTAINS
KYFFHÄUSER
Location: Thuringia and Saxony-Anhalt, Germany
Location: Border of France UK Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)
and Switzerland
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€), Swiss Franc Beneath the Kyffhäuser hills the rock is
studded with caves, and in one of those is
Those venturing into the Jura said to be the resting place of King Frederick
mountains would be well advised Barbarossa. When Barbarossa set out on
to avoid any horses which they see crusade in the 12th century he drowned while
galloping towards them. There are crossing a river but legend says he is sleeping
more ghostly horses reported from somewhere underground in Kyffhäuser.
the Jura mountains than anywhere Barbarossa is sleeping while sitting at
else on Earth. a large and round stone table. His beard
Several villages in the region claim continues to grow and has by now already
that a winged, white horse lived circled the table twice. When his beard has
nearby. Sometimes this horse was made it three times around the table the
said to swoop down on any woman king will wake up and lead a unified Germany
who ventured too far on her own. in a battle at the end of the world. Above
Other villages linked their white the hill stands a monument to the German
horses to springs which had been monarchy with a statue of Barbarossa on it.
thought sacred since antiquity.

MOUNT OLYMPUS
These horses would sometimes be
glimpsed at twilight by shepherds
and farmers who attested they had
seen the horses fly away towards
the mountain peaks. Some of the Location: Pieria and Larissa, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€)
winged horses are described as
having riders – either hunters or
elven kings. To make the horses Below: The
summit of Mount
even more unsettling there are
Olympus was
reports of headless horses roaming home to the Greek
the valleys. gods, and a site
of pilgrimage for
The horse of Gauvin is a many believers.
particularly dangerous one to
encounter. It is often said to wander
beside rivers and tempt the unwary
to ride it and, once astride, the
horse races off and carries the rider
either deep into dangerous water or
towards a precipitous drop.

Below: Old tales from the

Jura mountains speak
of magical white horses
– sometimes helpful,
sometimes perilous

There is no more famous mountain in is often hidden by clouds so it was easy to

European mythology than Mount Olympus imagine that something was hiding up there.
in Greece. Regarded as the home of the The summit of Olympus was shrouded
powerful Olympian gods it features in many with religious awe. According to legend the
Greek myths and epic poems. The early hero Bellerophon attempted to ascend to
Greek poems of Homer describe it as a the top of the mountain on the winged horse
paradise containing the palaces of the gods Pegasus to live with the gods. For his hubris
and as a place where wind never shakes the Bellerophon was cast down to his death. But
trees, rain does not fall, and snow does not the ancient Greeks did occasionally climb
settle. The gates of the city are gold and mount Olympus to leave offerings for the
shine with endless sunlight. The summit gods and today around 10,000 climbers per
of Olympus stands around 3000m tall and year reach the pinnacle of the mountain.

56
 MOUNTAIN MYSTERIES

UNTERSBERG PUY DE DÔME

Location: Border of Germany and Switzerland Location: Auvergne, France
Time zone: UTC+1 Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€) Currency: Euro (€)
Legend says that under the Untersberg The mountain of Puy de Dôme was formed

SOUTHERN
there is a sleeping king. Some versions say by a volcanic explosion 11,000 years ago
that it is Frederick Barbarossa who sits and has been a centre for religious pilgrims
slumbering at a table, as at Kyffhäuser. In
other accounts it is Charlemagne. His needs CARPATHIAN for thousands of years. A Roman temple to
the god Mercury has been excavated at the
are tended by a group of dwarves who keep
him safe. Once a century Charlemagne
MOUNTAINS summit. Other peaks in the Massif Central
were thought to be inhabited by fairies.
wakes up and emerges and when he sees Location: Southern Romania In the 16th century a local woman accused
ravens are still flying over the mountain he Time zone: UTC+2 of witchcraft confessed that the summit
Currency: Romanian leu
retreats back inside to sleep for another was a gathering point for witches. Every
hundred years. Folk tales speak of groups When Bram Stoker wrote Dracula he Wednesday and Friday, 60 witches met
of travellers going missing on the mountain, gave the vampire a sinister home in the on the peak. Others suspected of sorcery
only to descend a century later with no Carpathians. Dracula was said to have revealed they had met with the devil in goat
knowledge of how long they were gone. studied at the Scholomance – an academy shape there, with a candle between his horns.
of magic that legend says was located
deep in these mountains. The Carpathians
are said to be some of the last truly wild
mountains in Europe and their pristine
forests have nurtured tales of werewolves,
witches, and ogres. Not all supernatural
beings in the mountains are actively trying
to hurt those who visit, but they can still be
dangerous. The iele are a group of female
spirits who gather to dance, but only attack
those who see them dancing.

SNOWDON
Location: Gwynedd, Wales, United Kingdom Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Snowdon, known as Yr Wyddfa in Welsh, is the Near to Snowdon is the rocky hill called because two dragons were fighting in
tallest mountain in Wales and the most visited Dinas Emrys where an ancient hill fort once beneath it. One dragon was white but the
peak in the country. The Welsh name from the stood. According to legend at first a fort could winning dragon was red – and it has since
mountain may be derived from the words for not be built there without being destroyed become a national symbol for Wales.
a burial mound, and legend explains why it
might be such a large mound.
The king of the giants Rhitta Gawr was a Below: Mount Snowdon
is closely linked to the
fearsome leader who conquered the lands legendary life, and
of groups living around him. Once Rhitta had death, of King Arthur
slain his rivals he would shave off their beards
and weave them into a cloak. At this time King
Arthur was battling to unite his kingdom and
Rhitta decided to challenge him, telling Arthur
that he needed his beard to patch a hole in
his cloak. Arthur did not take this challenge
lying down and stormed Rhitta’s home and
slew the giant. Once Rhitta was dead Arthur
ordered his men to pile a burial cairn on
top of the giant’s grave and this formed the
mountain’s summit.
The peak of Snowdon can be reached via
Bwlch y Saethau (‘The Pass of Arrows’) where
Image source: Getty: Alamy

it is said that King Arthur himself fell in battle

with his enemies under a hail of arrows. A
large cairn of stones was erected there, which
has since disappeared.

57
 SACRED
SITES
60 LEY LINES & EARTH MYSTERIES
Exploring the secrets of the mysterious
structures of ancient landscapes

64 AN ANCIENT GREEK ODYSSEY

Sacred sites of classical Greece

70 THE MEGALITHIC TEMPLES

OF MALTA
Ancient wonders

72 HOLY LANDS
Mystical Christian shrines

76 THE SANCTUARY AT LOURDES

The home of holy healing

78 ON UNHALLOWED GROUND
Consecrated but cursed

82 LONDON’S TEMPLE OF MITHRAS

A Roman mystery in central London

84 SET IN STONE
Secrets of the standing stones

90 DARE YOU VISIT THE

WITCHES’ CAVES?
The haunts of hags

92 FAIRY FORESTS & SACRED GROVES

Mythical and magical forests

100 AMAZING LABYRINTHS

Puzzling paths to follow

58
59
SACRED SITES

Ley lines
and

From Stonehenge to ley lines, humanmade and natural

structures the world over continue to puzzle us with their
enduring mysteries and secrets

WORDS JACK GRIFFITHS

iving all over the globe, almost it falsely look as if you are rolling uphill, even its circular formation but, millennia after its
from pole to pole, humans though gravity is working as normal, taking construction, it still isn’t completely clear
occupy nearly every corner of the car down a slope. Often, the horizon what it is or why and how it was built. The
the world. Seemingly, nearly and other points of reference like buildings, purpose of Stonehenge is believed to be
everything has already been aren’t viewable from the angle the hill is spiritual and it’s thought that the stones
discovered and understood as humankind on, skewing your perception of the slope align with the movement of the sun from
has learnt almost all there is to know about further, as your brain focuses on the road sunrise to sunset – a phenomena that is
the planet and what’s on it. However, the rather than the surroundings, which would especially prevalent at the midsummer and
Earth still holds a number of mysteries – both usually prove its true and real gradient. The midwinter solstices – as well as the monthly
natural and ancient human-made structures unusual occurrence means that, across the phases of the moon. Therefore, it is reasoned
– which still aren’t fully understood. world, magic roads have spawned myths and that it acted as a sort of Neolithic calendar
Seeing is believing, or so we’re told, but legends. One such tale is that a ghost pushes for the changing of the seasons as well as
gravity hills beg to differ. Also known as the cars up the hill and, if you brake to stop a burial site. Mystery surrounds just how
magic roads, these are an optical illusion the ghost, it’ll steal all your petrol. the stones – that weigh more than 22 tons
that makes it look you’re travelling uphill Perhaps the most famous structure with – were moved into place, especially as the
when you’re actually going down. Perhaps mystical associations created by humankind type of rock is not found all that locally to
best experienced in a car, the phenomenon is is Stonehenge. The prehistoric monument Stonehenge. Some believe that the stones
caused by the surrounding landscape making is famous for the large stones that make up were left in the area after the melting of a

60
 LEY LINES AND EARTH MYSTERIES

Above: The oldest stones at Stonehenge

date to circa 2,500BCE but the function
and meaning of the structure still isn’t
completely understood

glacier during an ice age, while others are also suggest that there was a small wooden In parts of England, some of the rolling
of the opinion that they were moved into building and both are believed to date back to hills have large chalk figures emblazoned
place by humans using wooden rollers or around 3,500 BCE. The purpose of Avebury upon them. A prominent example is the
sledges. Despite being one of the most well- isn’t known but theories include that it was a 50-metre Cerne Abbas Giant, which depicts
known ancient structures in the world, and a ceremonial or religious gathering place, in a a man carrying a club. It is unknown who
UNESCO World Heritage Site, we can’t say for similar way to Stonehenge, that was used to created it with some believing it was the
sure what its true purpose really was and its measure astronomical events and celebrate Celts while others suggest it was created
mystery lives on. the beginning and the end of seasons. The in the Anglo-Saxon era or even during the
Only 20 miles away from Stonehenge is mystery surrounding Avebury grows further English Civil War. It is thought that couples
Avebury, another Neolithic formation that, as it’s supposed that many of the stones would venture up to the Giant by night in the
with more than 100 stones, is the largest were moved, buried or destroyed by order of hope its distinctly phallic symbolism would
stone circle in Europe. It is a ceremonial the early Christian church as it was believed bless families with children. Another glyph at
burial site but, unlike its nearby counterpart, that they were relics of pagan worshipping. Uffington, Wiltshire, illustrates a giant horse,
Image source: Getty, Wikimedia

wooden structures are likely to have also Some were also used for construction during and a similar design was used on Celtic coins,
been on the site. Avebury has a network of stone shortages in the 18th century so the although its unusual design means that some
banks, ditches and circles but, unlike many site may even have been larger and much believe it to represent a dragon. These vast
similar structures, a square monument has more complete than it is today. This is also images were thought to symbolise or honour
been discovered beneath the site. Surveys being found with the Stonehenge site. gods and bring good luck. One story behind

61
SACRED SITES

HOW ARE THESE MYSTERIOUS

SPIRITUAL LOCATIONS FOUND? Below: The theory is that
the tool will twitch when
the dowser moves over
Dowsing is the use of wooden or metal rods contains subterranean water but it’s only underground water, which
will then lead to new
to detect hidden archaeological features. because of the movements of the user’s discoveries
When held out, the Y-shaped instrument arms that this happens. This is what’s
is seemingly moved by hidden energy and called the ideomotor effect, where someone
can locate underground water and oil, or moves unconsciously but believes that the
potentially lead to undiscovered ancient movements aren’t caused by them but by
objects. Research has shown that dowsing something else – supernatural or otherwise.
only works if the user already has some A similar phenomenon occurs when a Ouija
prior information of roughly where the board is used. In addition, dowsers usually
target can be found and the tool is unable operate where it’s known that water is
to locate anything by itself. The only underground anyway. Therefore, the idea
success from dowsing has been through of dowsing is built on random chance. This
inaccurate or misplaced anecdotes and doesn’t stop dowsers being called in to
not scientific fact. Indeed, the rods may locate water to this day, however. Well, if it
look like they move towards an area that works, who needs a reason why?

Below: A study in
the 1980s unearthed
proof that the Cerne
Abbas Giant wore a
cloak and stood upon
a dismembered head

d in
Above: As well as being best viewe
work
a car, gravity hills can be tough
ts
for unsuspecting walkers or cyclis
slope
who think it’s a simple downhill

the Uffington White Horse is that it will awake

and dance upon the hill if King Arthur were to
rise again. Recently, it’s theorised that it may
have been created for the Celtic and Roman
goddess of horses, Epona. These markings
have inspired more recent versions including
the Osmington White Horse made for King
George III in 1808.
One theory combines natural and human- natural landscapes with unusual features. that cooled into the rocky columns you
made structures at specific locations across The concept of ley lines revolves around can see today. The ancient tale states that
the globe. Ley lines involve the theory that the idea of the Earth’s spiritual energy the striking causeway was created by the
historical monuments were purposely rather than a physical or navigational link mythical Irish hero Fionn mac Cumhaill
constructed by our ancestors in a connected between locations. Ley line concepts vary (Finn MacCool) who was a giant trying
network and are an example of ancient lost between cultures with the idea of fairy paths to get closer to a rival giant in Scotland.
knowledge. It’s proposed that this formation originating from Ireland. Modern technology has since dispelled the
was used purposely to create spiritual ties Over the Irish Sea, jutting out from the folklore but the name has stuck. Scientific
between ancient sites. Northern Irish coast, is a famous landscape experiments on samples of basaltic rock
This belief can be as small-scale as known as the Giant’s Causeway. A formation in Iceland demonstrated that the cooling
connections between Stonehenge and of hexagonal columns, it was formed process that formed the causeway and
Avebury or a much larger scope spanning 50-60 million years ago by the cooling of also created another remarkable natural
countries and continents. This thought superheated rock into distinctive shapes. formation which reaches into the sky rather
can also be expanded into crop circles and Nearby ancient volcanoes spewed out lava than stepping out into the ocean.

62
 LEY LINES AND EARTH MYSTERIES

ST MICHAEL’S
SWORD
Location: Ireland, England, France,
Italy, Greece (and on to Israel)
Time zone: UTC/+1
Currency: Euro (€), Pound sterling (£)

From the lonely island of Skellig

Michael off Ireland’s Atlantic Coast,
all the way across the southern tip
of the UK mainland, across France
and the entire length of Italy, across
Greece and eventually culminating
on Israel’s west coast, runs a ley line
known as the Sword of St Michael.
The Archangel Saint Michael, chief
Left: The Barber
Stone at Avebury; of the angels and archangels and
named after killing a a warrior-prince tasked with the
tradesman who was
on the site
protection of the faithful, is often
represented sword in hand. In Europe,
Below: Ley is an
Anglo-Saxon word his ley line sword stretches all the
meaning ‘clearing way from its westernmost tip to the
in the woods’. The Holy Land, passing through a straight
Malvern Hills area
in Worcestershire, line of Christian holy places along
England is believed to the way including Ireland’s Skellig
carry ley lines
Michael Monastery; the Chapel of
St Michael on St Michael’s Mount
in Cornwall, UK; the Abbey of Mont-
Saint-Michel in Normandy, France; an
abbey and two churches dedicated to
St Michael in Italy; and a monastery
in Greece, before arriving in Israel.

63
SACRED SITES

An ancient Greek
From soaring temples to subterranean tombs, the legends of this
fascinating land live on in the stunning monuments raised to honour the
gods and ghosts that will forever wander the classical world

WORDS BEE GINGER

Above: While it is known to the world

as Greece, the Greeks refer to their
country as Hellas, which is derived
from the Ellanes, a people who lived
near the coastal city of Volos

64
 AN ANCIENT GREEK ODYSSEY

THESSALY
Location: Central Greece
Time zone: UTC+2
Currency: Euro (€)

Renowned
as a hive of
witchcraft
and magic, in
ancient times
Thessaly was a
wild, untamed
land thought
THE ACROPOLIS to be prowled
by barbaric
Location: Athens, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€) centaurs and
cunning spell-weavers such as the
hideous Erictho of Roman literature.
Dominating the Athens skyline from Athena and Poseidon over who would
Due to its geographic isolation,
atop a series of hills, the ancient citadel become the city’s patron are found here.
Thessaly stagnated as the rest of
of the Acropolis is home to some of the Determined to win the contest,
Greece began to prosper, further
most historically important buildings Poseidon struck the ground with his
bolstering claims from outsiders
in the world, chief among them the trident to carve open a spring, while
that it was a dark and primitive
breathtaking Parthenon. Constructed in Athena offered the people of the city an
place. Yet despite its supposedly
the mid-5th century BCE the Acropolis olive tree, a symbol of peace that also
backward ways, it was home to some
(which means ‘high city) was originally provided food and oil. When her gift was
sophisticated mythical figures.
known as Cecropia in honour of Crecops, chosen, the enraged god of the sea is said
Chiron, a semi-divine centaur who
a half-man, half-serpent who was said to to have flooded the surrounding plains.
dwelt on the mountain of Pelion in
have been the first king of Athens. Legend has it that when the invading
the south of the region, mentored
Many of the greatest tales of ancient Persians later torched the Acropolis, the
the fearless warrior Achilles, the
Greece can be seen etched into the next day the olive tree sprouted a new
intrepid adventurer Jason (whose
stone of the temples and statues built for shoot half a metre long, a divine reminder
name, which means ‘healer’, was
Athena, for whom the city is named, and to the beleaguered citizens that while
given to him by Chiron), and the god
Zeus, king of the gods. It is said that the fortune may have abandoned them, their
of medicine, Asklepios. The latter was
scars from a battle waged between goddess never would.
delivered from the womb of his dead
mother, Coronis, as she lay upon a
funeral pyre and given to Chiron to
raise. This he duly did, teaching the
young Asklepios the ways of healing.
Thessaly was also famed for the

EPIDAURUS pedigree of its horses, and it was here

that Achilles first mounted his steed,
Xanthus, a horse gifted with the
Location: Argolid Peninsula, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€) ability to communicate with humans
and prophesy the future.
Epidaurus was once a centre of healing carried a staff around which a Another seer to hail from
that drew the unwell from across snake wrapped its body. This Thessaly was Melampus,
the classical world. It is here that the came to be known as the Rod who received the power of
Sanctuary of Asklepios was erected, of Asklepios, and in many understanding the language of
which boasted a vast hall (enkoimeteria) parts of the world it remains a animals when some snakes that
that ill visitors would sleep in. Asklepios symbol of medicine. he saved and then reared cleaned
would enter their dreams and advise Epidaurus is home to a his ears with their forked tongues.
them on how to heal themselves. theatre that is still used Medea, the famed sorceress who
Asklepios, whose father was Apollo, today and a tholos, a circular helped Jason to steal the Golden
is thought to have shown kindness to a building that was designed Fleece, also practised her magic
serpent, which in turn revealed to him by Polyclitus the Younger. here. In fact, she is said to have
the ways of both healing and resurrecting Its foundations comprise been the first to do so in all of
the dead. Snakes were seen as sacred concentric walls punctuated by Thessaly, which to this day is
creatures possessed of healing powers, doors and partitions, which create known as the land of the witches.
and Asklepios was said to have an enormous labyrinth.

65
SACRED SITES

DELPHI
Location: Phocis, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€)

onsidered to be the centre of the world by the colder months, which may explain the limit on visiting
ancient Greeks, Delphi is most famous for being hours). Perhaps the most well-known prophecy foretold
the home of the Oracle, whose insight was by an Oracle of Delphi was the warning given to King
sought from people across the classical world. Croesus of Lydia. Having conquered the Greeks of Ionia,
Selected from among the local peasantry, a Croesus, who possessed both enormous wealth and self-
woman who had lived a ‘blameless’ life would become a confidence, turned his attention towards the burgeoning
pythia (priestess) of the Oracle and move into the Temple Persian Empire. Determined to crush this emerging
of Apollo on Mount Parnassus. Here she would prepare threat to his realm, Croesus prepared for war, but before
for prophetic rituals by bathing in a sacred spring before he sent his troops into battle he turned to the Oracle, who
burning laurel leaves and then assuming her position told him that should he proceed a great empire would
upon a tripod above a gaping chasm (it was into this pit fall. Arrogantly believing that this meant he would defeat
that Apollo cast the body of the she-serpent Delphye, Persia, Croesus began his campaign. But he was gravely
from which Delphi is said to take its name). However, she mistaken. After suffering a number of defeats to Cyrus
could not be visited during the winter, a time when Apollo the Great, Croesus watched in horror as the armies of
descended from the heavens and went to live among Persia besieged the Lydian capital of Sardis. It was his
the Hyperboreans at the top of the world (scientists empire that was doomed to fall. Such was his despair that
now believe that the natural volcanic gasses that likely he attempted to immolate himself on a funeral pyre, only
caused the Oracles’ trances weren’t as pungent during to be spared by Apollo.

Below: One legend claims that

a goatherd discovered the
sanctuary of Delphi and went
into a trance upon inhaling fume
s
escaping from a natural vent

66
TEMPLE OF POSEIDON
Location: Cape Sounion, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€)

Never ones to waste an ideal location, the Temple of Aphaia on the island of Aegina, the
Greeks built the Temple of Poseidon on the temple would have been a sight to behold, its
ruins of another. Situated 60 metres (200 entrance dominated by a six-metre (20-foot)
feet) above sea level, the site was chosen as statue of Poseidon set beneath its marbled
it was the first point travellers saw on their ceilings. Here cults dedicated to Poseidon
return to Attica, meaning it was a fitting
place to both worship the god of the sea and
and Athena would have engaged in various
rituals, and after their stunning victory at
ITHACA
also appeal to him for safe passage upon the Battle of Salamis in 480 BCE, the Greeks
Location: Ionian Sea, Greece
the waves. One part of the Sacred Triangle brought an entire Persian warship to Sounion
Time zone: UTC+2
that also includes the Parthenon and the as an offering to the master of the seas.
Currency: Euro (€)

Below: Lord Byron Thought to be named after Poseidon’s

carved his initials into son Ithacus, this small island off the
the marble of the temple
west coast of mainland Greece was the
home of Homer’s hero Odysseus, who
endured a gruelling ten-year journey
back to his wife, Penelope, after fighting
in the Trojan War that is the central part
of the epic poem the Odyssey, which
stretches to 24 books. For centuries
it was assumed that the poem was a
colourful story, but the discovery in
2010 of what archaeologists believe
to have been Odysseus’ palace lends
credence to the claim that Homer was
in fact recording some historical events.
Another mysterious find was the
Cave of Nymphs in the bay of Dexa.
Also known as the Marble Cave, it was
here that Odysseus privately convened
with the gods, the only mortal able to
enter the cave.

PALACE OF KNOSSOS
Location: Heraklion, Crete, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€)

This remarkable monument to the hero named Theseus confronted the

Minoan civilisation blends beauty beast in its labyrinthine lair and killed it
and barbarity. Step between the with his sword.
crimson pillars that support the partly Work began on the palace complex
reconstructed walls of the Palace around 1900 BCE, and it was routinely
of Minos and you will be treated to extended and enhanced throughout
wonderful frescoes – a series of its life. Appropriately enough, it was an
painted blue dolphins immediately amateur archaeologist by the name
catching the eye – and intricate of Minos Kalokairinos who first began
mosaics, but beneath the cracked tiles excavations on the site in the late
underfoot lurks the twisted shadow of 1800s. It’s thought that the central
the Minotaur. court would have been the scene
Confined in a labyrinth built on the of various festivals, including bull
orders of his father, King Minos, in a jumping – although some researchers
bid to contain the creature, this half- have since stated that it wouldn’t
man, half-bull preyed on the flesh of have been the ideal location for such a
unfortunate Athenian offerings until a chaotic event.

67
SACRED SITES

DION DELOS
Location: Cyclades, Aegean Islands,
Location: Pieria, Central Macedonia, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€)
Greece
Time zone: UTC+2
Located at the base of Mount Olympus, home Currency: Euro (€)
of the gods, Dion’s name is derived from
Dios, meaning ‘of Zeus’, and it certainly lives When it comes to seeking the favour
up to its divine title. This religious centre is a of the heavens, few can have tried
shrine to the almighty thunder god – as well harder than the rulers of this island
as his daughters, the Muses – and is said to the west of Mykonos. Birthplace
to be the resting place of Orpheus, a poet of Apollo and his twin sister, Artemis,
who travelled with Jason and the Argonauts. whose mother, Leto, went into
Orpheus’ bones were placed inside an urn labour beside the island’s sacred
that sat upon a pillar beside the road from lake, there is evidence of human
Dion to the mountain. occupation on Delos dating back to
Kings of Macedonia made offerings at the great sculptor Lysippos to design 25 the 3rd millennium BCE. Both Leto
Dion (the name Macedonia comes from bronze statues in memory of the Hetaroi and Dionysus were worshipped at
Makednos, one of Zeus’ many sons, who (Companions) slain at the Battle of the a cult site here, and in 476 BCE,
dwelt nearby with his brother Magnes), Granicus in 334 BCE. construction began on the Temple
including Alexander the Great, who made Excavations here have also revealed a of the Delians in honour of Apollo.
sacrifices on the site before conquering remarkable mosaic inside a temple dedicated This project was funded by the Delian
Persia. Upon his return he commissioned to the god of wine and pleasure, Dionysus. League, a collection of Greek city-
states who joined forces to fend off

AKROTIRI OF THERA
the menace of Persia. However, it was
left unfinished and later devastated
by war. Other prominent features
include the Minoan Fountain, built
Location: Santorini, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€) above a sacred spring, and the
Terrace of the Lions, a rank of fierce
surrounding area, and its lionine statues that lined the island’s
aftermath was recorded as sacred way.
far away as China in the form Prior to the island being used
of bizarre yellow skies and as the meeting place for Greece’s
summer frost. anti-Persian conglomerate, in
Given that subsequent the 6th century BCE, Athenian
excavations failed to unearth authorities had sought to purify
any bodies or much in the Delos by removing the bodies of
way of personal belongings, those buried in its soil. When this
it is safe to assume that the extreme measure apparently failed to
people of this once bustling please the gods, Athens ordered that
Bronze Age settlement nobody was permitted to be born on
managed to return to their the island either. Later it instructed
homes after the quake to all inhabitants to leave the island.
remove all they could carry, However, it was not doomed to be
perhaps aware of the looming deserted forever; after the Romans
threat of a lethal eruption. conquered Greece they turned it into
Estimated to have been built around As with most places in a bustling port.
4,500 BCE, the city of Akrotiri became a Greece, Akrotiri is enveloped in myths.
prosperous one thanks to its key role in According to some tales, Triton, a sea god,
Below: The Terrace
the copper trade. In time it boasted paved gave Euphemus, a son of Poseidon, a lump of the Lions originally
streets and an advanced sewage system, its of earth, which in a dream Euphemus saw comprised nine to 12
marble statues
people producing fine pottery, furniture and change into a woman who he then coupled
stunning frescoes. But unbeknown to these with. This mysterious lover then revealed her
creative crafters, their home was in fact living divine origins and told Euphemus she would
on borrowed time. In the 17th century BCE, one day return to nurse his future children.
a mammoth earthquake shook the region, After discussing this vision with Jason,
and around ten days later an immensely Euphemus cast the dirt into the sea, birthing
powerful volcanic eruption smothered the the island of Santorini.
city in choking ash and molten lava. One of Other accounts go further still and claim
the largest in human history, the Minoan that the island was in fact the location of the
Eruption caused widespread damage to the fabled lost city of Atlantis.

68
 AN ANCIENT GREEK ODYSSEY

Below: Discovered in the late

VERGINA
1970s, the Golden Larnax is
thought to house the remains
of Philip of Macedon, who
was assassinated in 336 BCE

Location: Central Macedonia, Greece Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€)

Located on a plateau overlooking Vergina Sun, whose 16 rays represent

the Thermaic Gulf, Aigai, to give the 12 Olympian gods and the four
the city its original name (which elements: earth, fire, wind, and
means ‘land of many goats’), was water. The ancient king sleeps in a
the first capital of the Kingdom of royal tomb built beneath the Great
Macedonia. Populated by 12 large Tumulus, one of hundreds of grave
temple-shaped tombs, it is the mounds that litter the site.
resting place of no less a figure than Once looming over the
King Philip II, father of Alexander surrounding landscape, the Palace
the Great, whose remains are said of Aigai was the largest building in
to reside inside the ornate Golden classical Greece, and it was here that
Larnax, a coffin that bears elaborate Alexander was proclaimed as king of
carvings of 313 oak leaves and 68 Macedonia in 336 BCE. He would go
acorns. Its lid is embossed with the on to greatness.

THE AGORA MYCENAE

Location: Athens, Greece
Time zone: UTC+2 Location: Argolis, Greece
Currency: Euro (€) Time zone: UTC+2
Currency: Euro (€)
Once the beating heart of Athens, the Agora
(‘gathering place’) of Greece’s capital is The most intriguing part of many of the
regarded as a very sacred location, one Greek myths is whether or not there is in
that contains its own share of mysteries. fact is a grain or two of truth in the story, and
Founded in the 6th century BCE to the when it comes to Mycenae, the truth may in
north of the Acropolis, at its peak the Agora fact be staring right at us. That is because
boasted the Altar of the 12 Gods, a tribute the crumbling walls of this former hilltop
to the Olympians and the point from which
all distances from the city were measured.
OLYMPIA city – which according to legend were built
by cyclops commanded by Perseus and are
Centred around the Panathenaic Way, a Location: Elis, Peloponnese Peninsula, Greece therefore called Cyclopean walls – may once
Time zone: UTC+2
sacred road along which the Panathenaic have been walked by none other than King
Currency: Euro (€)
Festival travelled every four years to Agamemnon, the monarch who gathered
honour Athena, the Agora has provided As the prevalence of their remarkable the troops of Greece and laid siege to the
archaeologists with some priceless structures attests, the ancient Greeks built (possibly mythical) city of Troy. This theory
historical finds. In 1938, a well was discovered things to last, and this extended to less is supported by the discovery of what has
between the Agora and the nearby Temple tangible elements of their culture. Olympia become known as the Mask of Agamemnon,
of Hephaestus that contained the bones of was the birthplace of the Olympic Games, a glittering golden funeral mask thought
over 460 infants, some adults, and around a contest held every four years to honour to have been buried with the king. Hailed
150 dogs, plus artefacts including shards of Zeus that drew crowds and competitors as the ‘Mona Lisa of pre-history’, today it
pottery and an ivory chape (the protective from across the city-states, and one that is displayed in the National Archaeological
fitting on a scabbard). Almost 40 years the world still enjoys thousands of years Museum of Athens.
later, a tablet was unearthed that had been later. As is only fitting for the highest of
inscribed by a slave named Lesis, who the deities, his likeness was shaped into a
lamented his poor treatment at the hands of towering statue made from gold and ivory
a “man thoroughly wicked”. that was one of the Seven Wonders of the
Ancient World, but this was sadly destroyed
in the 5th century BCE. Nearby stood the
altar of Olympia Zeus, fashioned using the
ashes of animals sacrificed in his name.
Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy

Another notable feature among these

sprawling ruins is the Pelopion, tomb of the
semi-legendary king Pelops, from whom
both the kings Agamemnon and Menelaus
descended, and the source of the name of
the Peloponnese.

69
 Above: The temple
at Tarxien shows the
complex construction
of those gigantic and
impressive monuments.
Today, they are a
protected site

The megalithic
Location:
Malta and Gozo
Time zone:
UTC+1
Currency:
Euro (€)
Tip: Ġgantija
Archaeological Park
in Xaghra, Gozo, has
a visitor’s centre
and a showcase of
artefacts

Across the islands of Malta stand seven megalithic

temples; these impressive constructions are a fascinating
record of temple-building in Malta

WORDS CATHERINE CURZON

70
 THE MEGALITHIC TEMPLES OF MALTA

he seven megalithic temples

of Malta are a unique and
important record of prehistoric
temple building during 3,600-
2,000 BCE. Two temples from
the so-called Ġgantija phase can be found
on Gozo, whilst the temples of Ħaġar Qim,
Mnajdra, Skorba, Ta’ Ħaġrat and Tarxien
are on Malta itself. They are some of the
earliest free-standing stone buildings in
the world and each is its own architectural
masterpiece, with a unique form and
decoration. Today the temples have been
named UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and
they stand as monuments to a time long
since passed, but not forgotten.
Archaeologists have found evidence
of prehistoric human activity in the
islands since 5,000 BCE and believe that
Above: Local legend
construction of the temples began in the has it that the immens
e
third millennium BCE. As subsequent Ġgantija, the Giant’s
Towers, were built not
generations inhabited the islands, they by mortal men, but by
continued to build and change the temples, folkloric giants.
leading to some difficulties in confirming

exactly what part of the building process

“In ancient Maltese folklore, the megalithic temples belongs to which particular era. In Maltese
folklore though, the temples weren’t built by
weren’t built by humans at all, but by giants; indeed, humans at all, but by giants; indeed, Ġgantija
Ġgantija means Giant’s Tower” means “Giant’s Tower”.
Each of the temples has its own layout
and construction style, consisting of upright
stone slabs topped by horizontal blocks. It is
an extraordinarily sophisticated technique
for the period and stones and earth fill the
cavity between the internal slabs and the
larger blocks that form the outer walls. Inside
are impressive corridors, paved courts and
a serious of semi-circular rooms, or apses,
which are arranged symmetrically around
the centre court. Their construction is a
testament to the understanding the builders
had of the local stone, which they employed I
the construction.
The seven temples are each impressively
decorated with panels featuring bas-reliefs of
patterns and local flora and fauna. Whilst the
external walls were usually built with coralline
limestone, the internal spaces employed
the less hard-wearing globigerina limestone,
which was also used to create the decorative
reliefs inside. Though today the temples have
no roof, scholars have theorised that there
may have been roofs on the buildings at
Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy, Getty

some point in their history.

The seven megalithic temples of Malta
are remarkable for their complexity and
today are protected by law. With careful
management, it is hoped that the ruins
of these once magnificent structures can
survive to share their important story for
many, many years to come.

71
SACRED SITES

Like underground rivers, spirit veins run through Europe, coming to the
surface in certain places where the veils of the world are thin

WORDS EDOARDO ALBERT

Above: Europe is ancient.

In places, the walls between
worlds have worn thin. These
are some of those places

72
 HOLY LANDS

THE GARGOYLE
OF ROUEN
Location: Rouen, France
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)

Ever wonder why medieval masons

carved gargoyles on the outside
of churches? It’s all thanks to St
Romain. A dragon, La Gargouille,
was terrorising Rouen, demanding

AACHEN CATHEDRAL
regular meals of virgins. Determined
to save the young women of the city,
St Romain asked for volunteers to
Location: Cologne, Germany Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€) accompany him in confronting La
Gargouille – but only a condemned
Step into Aachen Cathedral and you will considerable damage during the Second murderer agreed. The duo set off
be transported back to the end of the 8th World War. However, its treasures had to find La Gargouille and, dragons
century. In 796, Charlemagne ordered been safeguarded and the Palatine being conspicuous, soon succeeded.
Odo of Metz, an Armenian architect, to Chapel survived largely unscathed However, the fearsome dragon was
build a chapel for him near his favourite although the Gothic choir required rendered immediately docile when
residence in Aachen. The Palatine Chapel, extensive restoration. St Romain inscribed the cross on
which forms the core of the cathedral, Among the treasures within are him. Now harnessed, St Romain
was built extraordinarily quickly; a 798 the throne of Charlemagne, where returned La Gargouille to Rouen and
letter from the scholar Alcuin states that subsequent German kings were crowned, its citizens and to commemorate
it was nearly finished and in 805 the final and the Marienschrein (Shrine of Mary) their deliverance from the dragon,
chapel was consecrated. Charlemagne which holds the relics for which the the clergy of Rouen Cathedral
himself, the greatest of all the early cathedral is famous: Mary’s cloak, the were given the right to pardon one
medieval kings and the founder of the swaddling clothes of Jesus, the cloth that condemned man every year. As for
Holy Roman Empire, was buried in his wrapped John the Baptist’s head and La Gargouille, the vengeful citizens
church and his tomb became a place of Jesus’s loincloth. Just as impressive, and burned the poor dragon. But when
pilgrimage for centuries. far more visible, are the extraordinary the fire went out, its head and neck
The church was extended during mosaics. Few places pierce time in such a were still intact, so they stuck them
the Middle Ages but it suffered visceral way. on the cathedral tower – where a
passing mason saw how falling rain
drained from the dragon’s snout. A
quick carving later, and gargoyles
were created!

THE IMP OF LINCOLN CATHEDRAL

Location: Lincoln, England, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

High up in the choir of Lincoln Cathedral didn’t attract much attention when first
there is a carving of a little devil that carved but since the 19th century various
dates all the way back to when the choir tales of its origin, which might be much
was made, between 1250 and 1280. It older, have been collected. The earliest
had the demon attacking the bishop,
whereupon the Blessed Virgin sent a
wind so strong that the evil sought refuge
inside the cathedral, where he has stayed
ever since. Another legend has the devil
dispatching two imps to cause mayhem in
the cathedral. However, an angel arrived
to defend the holy place and, when the
imps wouldn’t stop, the angel turned
one of them to stone as a warning of the
consequences of such actions.

73
 ARMENTEIRA
MONASTERY
Location: Pontevedra, Spain
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)

SANCTUARY OF OUR In the 12th century, a Spanish

LADY OF NAZARÉ
nobleman, Don Ero, founded a
Cistercian monastery. As founder,
Don Ero became its first abbot. He
was renowned for the simplicity of
Location: Nazaré, Portugal Time zone: UTC Currency: Euro (€) his life and his fervent faith. Most
of all, he wished to have a vision of
One misty day in September 1182, the sheriff prayer was answered: the horse managed heaven in this life. One day, while
of Nazaré, Dom Fuas Roupinho, took his to pull aside before they tumbled from the walking on nearby Mount Castrove,
favourite horse out hunting. Flushing a deer cliff. In gratitude, Dom Fuas built a sanctuary Don Ero renewed his prayer. As he
from cover, they gave chase, galloping uphill. to Our Lady nearby, over the place where a was doing so, Don Ero noticed the
The deer, in its panic, leapt from the cliff face statue of her stood that had reputedly come beauty of the place where he was
and, as the mist cleared, Dom Fuas Roupinho originally from Nazareth. The imprint of the praying: a little dell where a stream
realised that he was about to follow, for it horse’s hoof, as it turned back from the cliff flowed under trees. Don Ero sat
was too late to make his horse pull up. In edge, can still be seen in the rock while the down to appreciate the beauty of his
extremis, Dom Fuas prayed to Mary and his sanctuary became a place of pilgrimage. surroundings and, as he was sitting
and looking, he heard a bird begin
to sing. Its song was more beautiful
than any music Don Ero had ever
heard and he was transported and
completely transfixed. When finally
the bird stopped singing Don Ero
gathered himself and returned to
his monastery. But, on getting back,
he found it… different. The monks
themselves looked at him strangely.
They asked who he was and when
Don Ero told them, they gasped.

KYLEMORE ABBEY
Don Ero founded our monastery
three hundred years ago, they told
him, but one day he went walking on
Mount Castrove and never returned.
Location: County Galway, Ireland Time zone: UTC Currency: Euro (€) Don Ero looked around at what he
had founded and then, suddenly, the
Kylemore Abbey, a fabulous Victorian Gothic of Irish legend, Fionn mac Cumhaill. The two lost centuries caught up with him
construction, is tinged by tragedy. It was were hot-tempered and often argued. During and he crumbled to dust.
built by Mitchell Henry for his beloved wife, one such row, Cú Chulainn picked up a stone
Margaret, as the place where they would and flung it at Fionn mac Cumhaill. It just
raise their children. But Margaret died while missed, embedding itself in the ground where
still young and her grief-stricken husband it can be seen to this day. Today, if you stand
built the nearby neo-Gothic church in her with your back against the ‘Ironing Stone’ (for
memory. In 1920 the castle passed into the it looks like an iron) and throw three pebbles
keeping of an order of Benedictine nuns, over it while making a wish, it’s said your wish
becoming an abbey in the process and the shall be granted.
sisters maintain it still. The lake in front of the abbey is both the
The country around the abbey is steeped last resting place of Fionn mac Cumhaill’s
in legends from Ireland’s past. According to hound, Bran, and the home of a white horse
those tales, the mountain under which the that rises every seven years to gallop across
abbey stands, Dúchruach, was the home of the lake. The nearby Giant’s Bed, a large flat
Cú Chulainn, the great warrior hero of Irish stone, marks the grave of a giant that was
myth whose battle frenzy was such that both terrorising local people until a brave young
foes and friends fled before him. On the other lad tricked the ogre and slew him. The locals
side of the valley another mountain rises buried him under the giant slab of rock to
which was the home of another warrior hero ensure that he could trouble them no further.

Above: Don Ero returned to

his monastery after a walk but
found that he’d been away far
longer than he thought
74
 HOLY LANDS

CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
Location: Spain, Portugal, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

According to tradition, the Apostle James pilgrimage routes: to Jerusalem and to Rome. the way. These usually provide dormitory-
was martyred in Jerusalem by order of Herod The pilgrimage to the Cathedral of St James style beds and are run by a range of
Agrippa but his followers took his body back became the third. organisations, from local parishes to pilgrims’
to Spain, where he had originally preached, There were and are many different associations. The friendships, meetings and
interring his remains in Compostela where pilgrimage routes. The Camino Francés, serendipitous encounters along the way
they were rediscovered in the 9th century. starting from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port near provide treasured memories to pilgrims as
That was the trigger for the genesis of the the Spanish border, is the most popular but they meet, leave, and meet again the other
most remarkable pilgrim tradition in western starting points for pilgrims include Paris, Le wanderers on the path.
Europe. There were already two great Puy and Vézelay in France, Madrid in Spain Every day, at noon and 7:30pm, pilgrim
and Lisbon in Portugal. masses are celebrated at the Cathedral of St
None of these are for the James during which pilgrims who received
Below: One of the things that has made the
Camino de Santiago so popular is that, in faint of heart. The Camino the Compostela the day before have their
today’s labour-saving world, it is something Francés, which is at least home country and starting point announced.
that is genuinely difficult to do so the fairly level once it crosses The Botafumeiro, a huge swinging censer, is
accomplishment is earned
the Pyrenees, is still 500 used for every Friday evening mass (apart
miles (800km) long. To from Good Friday).
earn the Compostela, a The last 40 years have seen an
certificate confirming extraordinary growth in the number of
completion of the pilgrims. In 1985, 690 completed the
pilgrimage, the pilgrim pilgrimage. In 2023 there were 446,035
must have walked at least recipients of the Compostela. The 2010 film,
100km or cycled 200km. The Way, starring Martin Sheen, is a touching
Pilgrims can stay at depiction of one man’s pilgrimage in the
pilgrims’ hostels along footsteps of his dead son.

DUOMO DE MILANO (MILAN CATHEDRAL)

Location: Milan, Italy Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

Turning into the central piazza in Milan, views over Milan and, on a clear day, all the Duomo is a statue that was originally
the cathedral that looms ahead of you is, way to the Alps. part of the façade but had to be
literally, jaw dropping. Milan Cathedral is Within the cathedral, don’t miss the moved inside because churchgoers
the fifth largest cathedral in the world but extraordinary stained-glass windows. In found it too disturbing. It depicts St
its size is the least of its attributes. Seeing particular, look out for the window depicting Bartholomew, who was martyred by
the façade, the visitor is struck by the sheer battle between St Michael and the demons being flayed alive. The statue shows the
intricacy of the carvings that cover it. Look on the north wall. Also at the back of the flayed Bartholomew with his skin flung
to the right of the main door to see a carving casually over his shoulder.
of Tarantasio, the dragon that terrorised the
people of Lombardy until he was killed by
either Frederick Barbarossa or an ancestor of Below: There are few more
breathtaking sights in the
the Viscontis, the family that would go on to world than the façade of
rule Milan. Milan Cathedral
It was a later Visconti, Gian Galeazzo,
who began the building of the cathedral
(an enterprise that would take six hundred
years). One legend suggests an unlikely
catalyst: the devil appeared to Gian Galeazzo
in a dream and threatened to steal his soul
Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy, Getty

if he didn’t build a cathedral covered with

statues of the devil and his minions. Hence
the 134 gargoyles on the church.
Set atop the highest spire of the Duomo
is the Madonnina, a golden statue of Mary. A
ticket up to the terrazza will reveal her in all
her splendour as well as unveiling wonderful
 SACRED SITES

The sanctuary
There are few experiences to rival a visit to the sanctuary at Lourdes,
where history, legend and belief draw millions of pilgrims each year

WORDS CATHERINE CURZON

ach year, millions of pilgrims sanctuary offers visitors a peaceful place Visitors to Lourdes will find a town that
make the journey to France, in which to light a candle, join the candle is nestled in the Pyrenees mountains,
to visit the sanctuary of procession or make the water gesture: surrounded by stunning scenery and
Our Lady of Lourdes. It was washing their hands, forearms and face offering a warm welcome to pilgrims
In this unassuming corner in the spring water that flows from the and tourists alike, with plenty of
of France where, in 1858, 14-year-old grotto. Pilgrims can also drink the water or accommodation on offer. For those
Bernadette Soubirous claimed to have even bathe in it with the assistance of the pilgrims whose health or accessibility
witnessed a vision of the Virgin Mary hospitaliers, volunteers who are on hand to issues mean that they need to be close to
in the Massabielle Grotto, a visitation help the sick should they require it. the site itself, there is the Accueil Notre
which occurred 18 times and resulted Though the pilgrimage season runs Dame, a purpose-built accommodation
in Bernadette’s eventual canonisation. from Easter to late October, the sanctuary block specifically open to pilgrims with
Today, Lourdes is one of the most is open to visitors all year round. There mobility and other health concerns.
important Catholic shrines in the world, is no charge to enter and, while certain Whether visitors to the sanctuary of
visited by approximately six million activities are only available at scheduled Lourdes are tourists, who simply want
pilgrims annually. The waters of the times or on specific dates, the sanctuary to see the famed and mystical site, or
grotto’s natural spring are believed to itself is open 24 hours a day and entry Catholic pilgrims for whom the grotto has
have miraculous healing powers. to the site is free. Whileit is an important a particular importance due to their faith,
Whether travelling alone or in a group, Catholic site, people of all faiths or the sanctuary at Lourdes is a fascinating
anyone who makes the pilgrimage to those with none are welcome to visit the place, rich in history and legend and
Lourdes is welcomed as a friend. The sanctuary and participate. welcoming to all.

Right: Bernadette
Soubirous
reported that
she had seen
the Virgin Mary
in Lourdes’
Massabielle
Grotto

76
 THE SANCTUARY AT LOURDES

Left: Thousands flock

to the grotto each day,
to taste the water, light
a candle or perhaps
participate in a mass.

Image source: Alamy, Wikimedia Commons

77
 SACRED SITES

On unhallowed
You might think consecrated earth would prevent restless
spirits from congregating, but think again. These houses of
the holy are also regular stomping grounds of the dead, and
sometimes even something demonic…

WORDS ALICE PATTILLO

ST. PATRICK’S
PURGATORY
Location: County Donegal, Ulster,
Ireland
Time zone: UTC
Currency: Euro (€)

Catholics on pilgrimage have been

visiting this site on Station Island
since the Middle Ages. According
to legend, this holy spot was where
Christ showed St Patrick a cave
leading to purgatory. The site was
so important in medieval times that
it’s the only Irish place mentioned
on Martin Behaim’s world map of
1492, and it can be seen on maps
dating back to the 5th century. The
body of water in which it is situated
– Lough Derg (Red Lake)– is also the
legendary home of a giant serpent,
said to have been killed by St Patrick
and whose blood stained the lake
red. Previously, the loch was named
Lough Fin, in honour of a mythical
Celtic warrior (and the supposed
creator of the monstrous serpent).
Many locals believe that this was the
site of the druids in Ireland, hence its
significance and prevailing relevance
Image source: Getty: Alamy;

in legend. Whatever the reality, there

is something lurking in Lough Derg
that defies all logic.

78
 UNHALLOWED GROUND

ROSSLYN CHAPEL BUCKFASTLEIGH

Location: Midlothian, Scotland, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£) CHURCHYARD
This stone chapel dates back to the 15th is unsurprising as it is likely that Sir William Location: Devon, England, UK
century, and was featured prominently in was indeed involved in or at least inspired Time zone: UTC
the 2003 novel and subsequent 2006 film by the Order of the Knights Templar, despite Currency: Pound sterling (£)
The Da Vinci Code. Initially built as a private the fact that they were officially disbanded
chapel in 1446 by the last Earl of Orkney, in 1312. Today, the chapel is said to be home The skeletal remains of Buckfastleigh
Sir William St Clair, he commissioned to numerous ghosts, including that of the church perch on a rock opposite
numerous stonemasons to construct it alleged murdered apprentice, a ghostly dog, Buckfast Abbey (itself haunted by a
with various imported materials from far numerous monks and even knights. procession of phantom monks) and
and wide. Unfortunately, Sir William died have attracted a congregation of
before his vision was finished and he was corvids and a midnight mass of owls
laid to rest within its walls. The chapel is full since a fire, supposedly started by
of strange carvings, often described as a Satanists, decimated the interior and
‘tapestry in stone’. One pillar in particular, ancient Norman font back in 1992.
the Apprentice Pillar, is said to have been The church’s history is chequered
carved by an apprentice stonemason with disasters from fires to lightning
whose talent superseded that of his master, strikes, bombs and body snatchers. If
causing his master to murder him in a fit that’s not ominous enough, its long-
of jealousy. The meanings behind many of forgotten churchyard is home to one
the carvings appear to be Masonic, which of England’s oldest mausoleums:
Richard Cabell’s sepulchre, a tomb
harbouring the remains of an evil

MELROSE ABBEY
17th century squire whose infamy
inspired the Sherlock Holmes tale
The Hound of the Baskervilles. Cabell
was said to have murdered his wife
Location: Melrose, Scotland, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£) and sold his soul to the devil. His
death in 1677 was predicted by a pack
Once a wealthy and prosperous monastery, return as a revenant, or vampire. There were of hellhounds, who arose from the
St Mary’s Abbey, Melrose, is home to one of sightings of the priest stalking the streets, depths of Dartmoor to escort his soul
the creepiest vampire legends in Scotland. In searching for blood and terrifying the locals. to hell. Convinced that they would
1139, there was a chaplain to one of the ladies It was said he would return to the abbey in never be safe from him, the Buckfast
who lived nearby. This chaplain was known the dead of night in the form of a bat. The locals constructed a solid tomb and
to revel in a wide array of sins and vices, even monks at the abbey were reportedly able secured his coffin beneath a block of
earning himself the nickname ‘Hunderprest’, to drive the vampire away with prayers and heavy stone to trap him for eternity.
meaning ‘dog priest’. He was given this title rituals; however, this simply drove the priest Despite this, his unquiet spirit is said
apparently due to his fondness for hunting into the house of his old mistress, whom he to haunt the graveyard along with
with a pack of wild hounds. tried to ravish. Terrified, she called upon the the hellish hounds. Today, you’d be
It is believed that when the priest died, help of the monks, hoping an exorcism would forgiven for mistaking the sepulchre’s
he paid for his sinful life by being cursed to halt his advances. pyramid-shaped porch for a closed-
In order to finally rid themselves of this down café kiosk – but most kiosks
sinful demon once and for all, an elder monk don’t harbour a devil that bites your
travelled to the priest’s grave where he fingers if you circle them seven times
reportedly witnessed the man rise out of the and stick your hands through their
ground and approach him. The monk fought iron bars…
him off with a staff, and drove the phantom
back into the ground. Now confident he
was dealing with a vampire, the monk and
some companions opened up the grave the
following morning. Inside they found the
priest’s body, a smile upon his lips, dripping
with blood. The monks removed the body,
burned it to ashes, and scattered the ashes
into the wind. The monks were satisfied that
the demon was dealt with and things began
to calm down. However, today it is said that
on some nights ghostly howls can still be
heard throughout the ruins of the abbey.

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 SACRED SITES

NEWSTEAD
ABBEY
Location: Nottinghamshire,

ST GEORGE’S CHURCH
England, UK
Time zone: UTC
Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Lord Byron’s old haunt is home to Location: Lukova, Czechia Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Czech koruna
a few phantoms, one of which he
reportedly witnessed for himself. In 1968, after serving the small community 2014 it piqued the interest of art student
Known as the Black Friar, but of Lukova – around 600km east of Prague Jakub Hadrava, who had been tasked by his
dubbed by Byron the Goblin Friar, – for over 600 years, the roof of St George’s university to find an abandoned, dilapidated
this black, shapeless mass was Church collapsed during a funeral service. church for an art project. Hadrava, who
said to roll off a bed, onto the floor, For the superstitious locals, this was the was studying sculpture, chose to give
and vanish. Byron claimed it would last straw. The church had been plagued the haunted former house of the holy an
appear to his family members as an by misfortune for years, being rebuilt time afterlife, installing 30 plaster ghosts within
indication of an unfortunate event. after time. For the local parishioners, enough the chapel’s pews and aisles. Although the
When Byron tired of life at the was enough and they began to hold mass installation was initially only supposed to last
Abbey, he sold it to his childhood outside, convinced the place was haunted, or for half a year, news spread and the ghosts
friend, Thomas Wildman. Wildman even cursed. The church was soon boarded now live here permanently, with donations
heard that a local deaf and mute up, later raided by thieves struggling to making it possible for local authorities to
girl named Sophie Hyatt was a huge survive under Soviet rule. Left in ruins, in begin the repair of the building.
fan of the poet, and invited her
to visit Newstead as often as she
wished. Sophie found a haven at
the Abbey, caring for a dog Byron
had left behind and becoming a
CONVENT OF ST AGNES
familiar sight dressed in a white Location: Prague, Czechia Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Czech koruna
gown. Sophie had relied on a rich
relative for her income and, after This haunted nunnery is home to the ghost
he died, set off for Nottingham, of – you guessed it – a nun. According to lore,
leaving a note to tell the Wildmans in life, the daughter of a wealthy nobleman
of her plans. When they read it, fell in love with a poor knight who was of
the family decided to ask Sophie a much lower social status than her. Her
to live with them at Newstead and father refused the match, and instead sent
sent a servant to bring her home. her away to St Agnes to devote her life to
Tragically, he arrived to find that God as punishment for her sinful love affair.
Sophie had been hit by a drayman’s The night before she left for the convent
cart and killed instantly. But she conspired to leave with her love, but
Sophie’s spirit lives on at Newstead, instead was met by her enraged father who
strolling through her beloved garden murdered her for her disobedience and the
where she now has her own pathway shame she supposedly brought upon her
– White Lady’s Walk. family. Of course, this technically means
The final ghostly figure at the she isn’t a nun at all… In any case, the poor
Abbey is an ancestor of Byron’s, woman haunts St Agnes’ – a terrifying
witnessed by Sleepy Hollow author sight, dripping with blood and often in an
Washington Irving. He claimed the understandably miserable state. However,
Image source: Getty: Alamy;

terrifying bearded figure emerged she is also known to smile creepily before
from a painting above the drawing vanishing and even saved the life of a suicidal
room fireplace at night. girl once – grabbing the poison from her
grasp and replacing it with gold coins.

80
 UNHALLOWED GROUND

BORGVATTNET VICARAGE
Location: Borgvattnet, Sweden Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Swedish krona Above: Dare you stay the night in
Sweden’s most haunted residence?
It’s available to rent on AirBnB!
Borgvattnet Vicarage may not be very goings on, from poltergeist activity to
old, but it is infamously one of Sweden’s screaming and shadow-people sightings.
most haunted places. Built in 1876 it was In the early 1980s, Borgvattnet attracted
a mere 50 years into its existence that the the attention of Tore Forslund, a different
first paranormal sightings were reported. kind of ghost priest. Forslund performed
In 1927 the resident vicar logged exorcisms on the house but to no
numerous supernatural events, avail, quitting within a year.
including his washing being Today, you can stay the
inexplicably taken off TIP night at this infamous
the line. Since then Borgvattnet vicarage – if you
almost every new is about two hours manage to stay a
vicar or their family from Östersund via public whole night, you will
and friends have transport – available on be awarded with
reported ghostly weekdays only. Jump on the a diploma.
number 132 bus from Östersund
Busstorget, changing at
Stugun for the 321 direct to
Borgvattnet. Check out sj.se
to plan your journey
ahead of time
Left: A mysterious
monk haunts
Norway’s impressive
cathedral, but where
did he come from? NIDAROS
God only knows

Below: Nidaros
CATHEDRAL
Cathedral dates all
the way back to the Location: Trondheim, Norway
11th century Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Norwegian krone

Built in 1070, Nidaros Cathedral is

built upon the burial site of King Olav
II, who was responsible for Norway’s
Christianisation and has since become
the patron saint of the nation. It is
also home to Norway’ most famous
ghost – but it’s not Saint Olav who
haunts these consecrated walls, it’s a
monk. First witnessed by bishop Marie
Gleditsch in 1924, who reported the
sight of a ghostly friar with a slashed
throat, inexplicable chanting and eerie
organ music have since been heard
in the cathedral late at night. While
the macabre monk might be one of
Norway’s most infamous phantoms,
it is rather controversial as the
cathedral has never had any link to any
monastery. Perhaps it is Saint Olav
after all?

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SACRED SITES

London’s
of

Above: Archaeologists
first uncovered the site in
1954, before building work
In 1954, an ancient Roman Mithraeum emerged into the London forced the removal of the
ruins. Today, they are back

daylight, centuries after it was lost. Today, it is open to all where they belong

WORDS CATHERINE CURZON

n 1954, archaeologist Audrey Williams of them in excellent condition thanks to the as it was when a place of worship, careful
and WF Grimes, director of the Museum preservation qualities of the waterlogged attention has been paid to lighting and
of London, excavated what they soil in which they had lain. A new excavation sound, creating a mystical haze and filling
believed was an early Christian church between 2012 and 2014 was one of the the air with mysterious chanting and distant
on a construction site on Walbrook, a most extensive the city had ever seen and footsteps. It is a multisensory experience,
street in the City of London. What they had uncovered ancient Londinium’s rich Roman evoking a time that has long since passed
discovered, however, was a Roman temple history still further. and transporting visitors out of the modern
dedicated to the god Mithras. Among the Today, the Walbrook sight of the era and back through the centuries into
artefacts unearthed were marble statues of Mithraeum is open to visitors and the ruins the temple of Mithras. Entry is free (and
Minerva and Mithras and locally made clay have been reconstructed exactly as they entertainingly through a sleek modern office
figures of the goddess Venus. were when they were discovered in 1954. building), but you need to book in advance.
The temple had been constructed on the This recreation of the initial
site of the Walbrook, a lost river of London. building of approximately
When the Romans founded the city, the 240CE contains original
Walbrook marked the boundary of the very stones and bricks, while
first settlement and 200 years later, one of perishable elements such as
residents of Roman London built the temple. wood and lime mortar are
It was subsequently rededicated to Bacchus new but have been made
in the 4th century. to match those that the
With building work ongoing at the site Romans would have been
of the temple, the uncovered ruins were used. Visitors to the temple
moved to a new site to allow the construction can also view a number of
work to continue, but in 2007 the site was artefacts that have been Above: Travel back to ancient
relocated back to 12 Walbrook, where it found at the site during Rome, without ever leaving
the City of London, at the
had been built in the 3rd century. In the various excavations. Mithraeum, which has been
years since the initial discovery, over In order for visitors to reconstructed on Walbrook
14,000 items have been recovered, many be able to picture the site

82
 LONDON’S TEMPLE OF MITHRAS

Below: In addition to the original

walls and many ancient artifacts,
the Temple of Mithras also hosts
contemporary art installations
and events

Location:
London, UK
Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy, Getty

Time zone:
UTC
Currency:
Pound sterling (£)

83
SACRED SITES

Set in
STONE
Ancient stones imbued with magical and mythical significance
are hidden throughout the landscapes of Europe

WORDS ALICE PATTILLO

umans have been building with amplify mystical energies, communicate

stones since, well, at least the with otherworlds, and to heal the sick.
Stone Age, over three million And it’s easy to see why – stones contain
years ago. Rocks have long pigments, precious metals, minerals and
provided us with shelter from can even generate electric currents, as well
the elements and protection from our as being the toughest naturally-occurring
environment. We’ve also used them to materials on the planet.
make tools and jewels and carved them During the Neolithic period, ancient
into symbols of remembrance, honour, love, Europeans began to develop a distinctive
power, or purely for decoration. megalithic tradition that would continue
We also have a long tradition of ascribing for many centuries, building large open air
magic to them – associating certain stones structures out of specially selected giant
with specific spiritual properties or in the stones to create sacred spaces. Across
belief that they can be used to channel and Europe there are estimated to be over

“During the Neolithic period ancient Europeans began

to develop a distinctive megalithic tradition that would
continue for many centuries”

84
 SET IN STONE

35000 megalithic sites dating back as far constructions that use all of these magnificent monuments also have spiritual
as 5000 years. Megalith literally means formations, and they may not always significance. Evidence of ritual significance,
large stone, and these ancient monuments be Neolithic either. There are more than such as sacrificial animals, human remains,
come in all shapes and sizes, ranging from 1,300 stone circles in the British Isles and offerings and pre-historic art, have been
singular standing stones known as menhirs Brittany, France, but the majority are Celtic found in many of these sites indicating
or monoliths to impressive structures grave sites dating back to the Bronze Age that they were sites of major cultural
such as trilithons (two vertical stones with and feature cairns (stacks of flat stones). In significance and perhaps had multiple
a horizontal stone across the top) and Scandinavia, such constructions often date functions. Many of the larger sites are also
dolmens (two or more vertical standing back to the Viking era. aligned to the lunar and/or solar cycles,
stones and a horizontal, flat stone ‘roof’). Neolithic and Bronze Age megalithic functioning as time-keeping devices with
Free-standing single chamber dolmens, monuments are often combined with incredible accuracy, and many were no
also known as portal tombs, are the most earthwork. Some may be situated in a doubt used as astronomical observation
common type of megalithic structure henge – an earthen enclosure consisting points. Carvings have pointed towards them
found across Europe, with more than 100 of a ring-shaped mound with a ditch along being, possibly, ancestral churches to the
Neolithic dolmens in Sardinia, Italy alone. its inside that marks out a circular or oval gods of nature and associated with both
Many believe they were originally covered platform in the centre. Despite being the fertility and death, and their many shared
by earthen mounds, similar to a larger namesake for the term ‘henge’, England’s characteristics point towards a common
passage grave. And while some do indeed Stonehenge is not an actual henge – it culture or at least shared knowledge that
function as a tomb, many do not – causing is a proto-henge, an early example of the spanned across Europe. To stand within
much speculation over whether or not that earthwork construction. one will bewitch you. These ancient stones
is their primary function. Similarity between site structures, stones are rich with powerful spiritual energies
Megalithic monuments may also selected, their placements and alignments, and serve as mysterious ghosts of the
appear as simple stone circles, rows of suggest that each rock was placed with past – they stand as all we have left of once
stones, spiral formations or elaborate a great deal of consideration and these thriving prehistoric civilisations.

Below: Callanish stone

circle, found in the Outer
Hebrides, Scotland

85
SACRED SITES

STONEHENGE
Location: Wiltshire, England, UK
Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Situated right in the centre of the mystical from bluestone. These bluestones, which
Salisbury Plain, Stonehenge is an incredible average two to three tons in weight, were
example of a megalithic stone circle transported to the site from the Preseli Hills
featuring gigantic trilithons that date back in south-west Wales, more than 150 miles
over 4000 years and have, unbelievably, (as the crow flies) and the large altar stone
survived until this day. may have come from as far as Scotland.
Originally a larger arrangement of stones, Clearly, whoever built it was remarkably
Stonehenge has bewitched and bewildered sophisticated, and utilised joints normally
humanity for centuries, inspiring tales of found in woodworking and not found in any
sorcery and ritual – including a theory that other prehistoric monument.
it was conjured by the wizard Merlin. 18th While nobody knows Stonehenge’s original
century antiquarian John Aubrey theorised purpose, like many ancient monuments,
it was built by the druids in 400 BCE as it is aligned with the sun. On the summer
a temple where they would perform their solstice, the sun rises over the large sarsen
alleged human sacrifices, casting a sinister stone known as the Heel Stone and sets
CASTLERIGG shadow over the site that has remained to
this day. However, while it was no doubt
behind it on the winter solstice. Twice every
year, people still gather at the stones to
used by the Celts, the structure dates back witness the solstices and the stunning feat
Location: Lake District, England, UK thousands of years before their existence. of engineering our ancestors put in so much
Time zone: UTC
The stones are made up of a central effort to create, and if you can manage to
Currency: Pound sterling (£)
horseshoe of 15 gigantic sarsen (silicified attend on either the longest or shortest day
sandstone) stones that weigh around 20 of the year, it is by far the most magical way
One of Britain’s oldest open stone
tons each surrounding a six-ton altar stone to experience the site. If you want to visit at
circles, Castlerigg was constructed
made of Old Red sandstone, all within an any other time, make sure you book a tour so
in around 3000 BCE and its location
outer arrangement of smaller rocks made you can see the stones up close.
alone makes it a mysterious and
magical site. Surrounded by the
stunning scenery of the Lake District,

AVEBURY
cradled by mountains and overlooking
the Thirlmere Valley, its entrance is
marked by two large upright menhirs
on its northern side that seem to line
up with the midwinter solstice. With Location: Wiltshire, England, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)
its 30 meter diameter circle of 38
(originally 42) stones, curiously, is
Avebury is the UK’s largest diameter stone circles. The henge and stone
a rectangular formation of standing
stone circle and a superhenge, built circles are part of the Avebury World
stones. This anomaly has only ever
between 2850 and 2200 BCE. Its Heritage Site, which also includes West
been found at one other site – the
surviving henge encircles part of Kennet Avenue, the nearby causewayed
Bronze Age open stone circle at the
Avebury village and its outlining stone enclosure of Windmill Hill (another
Cockpit in nearby Ullswater. In 1901,
circle is the largest in Britain. Within Neolithic site believed to have been
three Neolithic stone axes were
its larger stone circle, which originally used for rituals, feasts and perhaps even
discovered within the circle, now on
contained 100 stones, are two smaller trading), the impressive West Kennet
display in Keswick museum. But there
Long Barrow burial chambers (dating
has never been extensive excavation
back over 5,000 years) and Silbury Hill.
at Castlerigg, so its purpose remains
Shrouded in mystery, Silbury Hill is a
a mystery. Many believe it was a
huge artificial hill built in around 2400
ceremonial site or a trading spot while
BCE that stands at approximately the
others theorise it was an astronomical
same height as the Egyptian pyramids,
observatory. If you want to discover its
also constructed around this time. The
secret yourself, there’s a picturesque
majority of Avebury World Heritage Site
circular walking route from Keswick
can be reached on foot from Avebury
town centre that will take you around
village, where you can also learn more
two hours to hike.
about all the local megaliths at the
Alexander Keiller Museum.

86
 SET IN STONE

THE DROMBEG STONE CIRCLE

Location: Glandore, County Cork, Ireland Time zone: UTC Currency: Euro (€)

ocally known as the Druid’s Altar, this Bronze an oval motif often believed to be an axe, which represent
Age stone circle is a prime example of the powers of divinity, but it could also represent a vulva
the Cork-Kerry type of stone circle. These – a hypothesis suggested by Terence Meaden, who claims
recumbent or axial stone circles feature one of the northern stones features a phallic engraving.
one large horizontal stone on one side of In 1957, archeologists discovered a gravel surface
the circle and two tall stones facing each other opposite and central fire pit, within which were 3,000 year old
it. These tall stones, known as portal stones, create an cremated adolescent human remains and a broken pot.
entrance. Drombeg’s recumbent stone and the two portal Was this a site for fertility rituals or human sacrifice? With
stones are arranged in alignment with the sunrise at its picturesque view of the Atlantic Ocean and the lush
midsummer and the sunset at the midwinter solstice. green fields of the Emerald Isle, it’s certainly the perfect
Upon the altar stone are carvings of two shallow cups and setting for revering the power of nature.

Below: The cyclic nature of

life and death is profoundly
felt at Drombeg

87
SACRED SITES

from west to east, varying from four metres

high to as short as 60 centimetres and then
growing in height again as they head east.
The Kermario alignments consist of over
1,000 stones in a fanned-out formation,
decreasing in height towards the east, and NEWGRANGE
the Kerlescan alignment consists of over 550 Location: County Meath, Ireland
stones with the tallest in its western extreme Time zone: UTC
reaching four metres high and featuring a Currency: Euro (€)
stone circle of 39 stones. There are further, This enormous prehistoric passage tomb

ALIGNEMENTS
smaller alignments such as the Petit-Ménec was built over 5,000 years ago by Stone Age
alignment, hidden in a woodland, and farmers, yet it could easily be mistaken for

DE CARNAC several tumuli (earthern burial mounds)

and dolmans that also dot this dramatic
an entirely modern building. The 13 metre
high, 85 metre diameter kidney-shaped,
Location: Brittany, France and puzzling ancient landscape (Kercado is grass-topped mound is much more than just
Time zone: UTC+1 especially worth seeing as it is still covered a tomb – it is an ancient temple, older than
Currency: Euro (€) with its cairn). the Great Pyramids of Giza. Surrounded
The Alignements de Carnac are 3000 Numerous myths surround the stones, by 97 large kerbstones, many of which are
mysterious and perfectly aligned dense including medieval tales of them being the engraved with symbols, its doorway leads to
rows of menhirs extending for almost result of the wizard Merlin turning a Roman a 19 metre long passage which opens into a
four miles. These some 7,000 year old legion to stone. But they are much older than cruciform chamber with a corbelled roof and
symmetrical stone columns are split into any Arthurian legend and it’s most likely they three alcoves, which all lights up at sunrise on
three main sites, but were likely originally had a more ritualistic and spiritual function. the winter solstice. This is undoubtedly the
all linked, and they end with a stone circle. Start your journey at the Maison des most magical time to visit but is so popular
The alignments at Ménec descend in height Megaliths in Ménec to discover more. that a lottery is held every year to gain access
to the passage and chamber when it is
illuminated (and with the notoriously erratic
Irish weather, the event may not even occur!)

LONG MEG &

HER DAUGHTERS
Location: Cumbria, England, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Besides Stonehenge, this incredible

stone circle is, according to
Cumbrian 19th century Romantic
poet William Wordsworth, “beyond
dispute the most notable relic that
THE ROLLRIGHT
STONES
this or probably any other country
contains”. Being a local, he might
have been biased, but Long Meg and
Her Daughters certainly is a unique
Location: Warwickshire, England, UK
Time zone: UTC
spectacle to behold. The stones got
Currency: Pound sterling (£)
their name from a local legend that
claims that the stones are not rocks The Rollright Stones are a complex of three
at all, but a petrified coven of witches from rhyolite. Long Meg is carved with limestone monuments in the Cotswolds.
led by Meg of Meldon, who were turned symbols, including a cup, rings and The oldest of the monuments are the
to stone after violating the Sabbath and spirals similar to megalithic carvings Whispering Knights. 400 metres west are
dancing wild on the moor. found at Newgrange, and she is thought the King’s Men. The stones are placed very
With a diameter of 350 feet, Long Meg to be a solstice stone like the altar stone closely, and may have originally formed a
and Her Daughters is the third widest at Stonehenge, while her daughters continuous barrier without any gaps, and
stone circle in the country. Consisting may be linked to not only solar but lunar there has been evidence of a fire pit in their
of over 60 stones, its tallest monolith, cycles too. centre. The King’s Stone stands 76 metres
affectionately known as Long Meg, Whatever the origin or purpose of north of the King’s Men. According to one
stands just outside the circle at 12 feet Long Meg and Her Daughters, they have local legend they were once a king and his
high and is made of local red sandstone, held us under their spell for centuries, knights who were turned to stone by a witch
while her ‘daughters’ – the shorter and will likely continue to do so for many while crossing the country. Today, the site is
stones that form the circle – are made more years to come. run by a trust who charge a small entry fee,
and Pagan groups are able to book slots to
perform ritual ceremonies too.

88
 SET IN STONE

THE RING OF BRODGAR BELTANY

Location: Orkney, Scotland Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£) STONE CIRCLE
The Ring of Brodgar comprises the remains During the Middle Ages, when the Vikings Location: Donegal, Ireland
of a large 104 metre diameter stone circle, reached Orkney, they allegedly dubbed the Time zone: UTC
thirteen or more burial mounds and a Ring of Brodgar the Temple of the Sun and Currency: Euro (€)
pseudo henge built over 5,000 years ago. Its the Standing Stones of Stenness, the Temple
spectacular setting surrounded by the hills of the Moon, and a stone that once lay One of Ireland’s largest stone circles
and lochs of Mainland, Orkney, on a small between the two until it was destroyed in the may not even be a stone circle at all.
isthmus between the Lochs of Stenness 19th century, Odin’s Stone, adopting the sites Thanks to 19th century accounts, we
and Harray, creates the feeling of a natural to worship their own Norse gods. You can see may deduce that Beltany Stone Circle
amphitheatre and it’s easy to see why a some of their additional runic carvings on is perhaps the desecrated remains
ceremonial space would be constructed here. several of the stones of the Ring of Brodgar. of a Neolithic passage tomb. Inside
The Ring of Brodgar is the youngest Brodgar’s earthwork is almost exactly the its 45 metre diameter central plain,
monument of and a part of the Heart of same size as the henge at Avebury and the older reports describe raised earth
Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site, which inner banks of Newgrange, suggesting that and stones covering human skeletal
includes a large portion of the islands’ these Neolithic builders had some form of remains and a large central cairn. Its
Neolithic ritual landscape with sites such common unit of measurement and perhaps name, Beltany, no doubt has a link to
as Maeshowe, a chambered cairn and shared belief systems. Beltane (a pagan festival that marks
passage grave aligned to be illuminated by Due to its remote location, Orkney has halfway between spring equinox and
the midwinter solstice sunrise, the Standing retained the incredibly strong mystical aura summer solstice) and its location
Stones of Stenness, four megaliths that that drew the ancients to it. Visit between supports the idea – upon Top Hill
stand as high as six metres, and Skara Brae, September and March on a clear night and overlooking similar megalithic sites at
Northern Europe’s best-preserved Neolithic you can witness the Aurora Borealis from Kilmonaster and under the watchful
stone-built village, which features a primitive the Ring of Brodgar, a spectacular sight that eye of Croaghan Hill. The tallest
functioning sewer system. adds to its magical, ethereal allure. pillar is opposite the circle’s most
significant stone, a triangular slab

BRYNGWYN
with over 40 Neolithic carvings, which
are both in alignment with the Beltane
sunrise – the perfect time to visit.

Location: Anglesey, Wales, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Anglesey was once home to the solstice and the sun will rise over the
druids, so it’s no surprise this Welsh centre of another prehistoric site,
island features prehistoric ritual Castell Bryngwyn (white hill castle)
structures. Literally translated as – a circular former Iron Age/Roman
“white hill”, the village of Bryngwyn fortress likely built upon an earlier
is home to the two largest menhirs henge that helped form a Neolithic
in Wales, believed to have once been ceremonial landscape around the
part of a Neolithic cromlech (stone River Braint along with another
circle). Excavations have unearthed supposed former cromlech at Tre’r
evidence of seven of the reportedly Dryw Bach. Nearby is the mysterious
eight stones that formed the original Neolithic Bodowyr Chambered Tomb,
16 metre diameter circle and the and just a few miles along the Menai
cremation deposits of four people Strait, which separates Anglesey
of varied ages at the south-east from mainland Wales, is Wales’
Image source: Alamy, Getty

quadrant, where a blade-style stone finest passage grave, Bryn Celli Ddu,
would have been placed and is in whose passageway and chamber
line with the midsummer sunrise is, in a similar fashion to Ireland’s
and midwinter sunset. Stand at the Newgrange, illuminated by the sun at
Bryngwyn stones on the summer dawn on the the summer solstice.

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 SACRED SITES

DARE YOU
visit the

Fairytale witches live in dingy hovels or fearsome

towers, but in folklore, they dwell in caves, making
their lairs much easier to find!

WORDS ICY SEDGWICK

WOOKEY HOLE
Location: Somerset, England, UK

ZUGARRAMURDI CAVES
Time zone: UTC
Currency: Pound sterling (£)

According to legend, the Wookey Location: Zugarramurdi, Navarre, Spain Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)
Hole Witch lived here 1000 years ago.
Unlucky in love, she had grown bitter The Zugarramurdi cave is a natural tunnel,
about romance, cursing happy couples eroded over time by the Olabidea River.
from her lair. The locals asked the According to legend, this river begins in Hell,
Abbot of Glastonbury for help, and he giving the cave a diabolical link even before
sent a monk to the cave. Furious at you get into the stories of pagan rituals that
the intrusion, the witch threw spells have unfolded. In 1609, the Spanish Inquisition
at the monk, but they bounced off. descended upon Basque Spain and more
In retaliation, the monk hurled holy than 7000 local people were tried as witches.
water at her and she turned to stone. 53 were found guilty. The cave has been
You can find her, now a rock formation, linked with witchcraft ever since, though the
Image source: Alamy, Getty, Wikimedia

in the first chamber. People believe association is no longer negative. The townsfolk
the small, lumpy stalagmite at her hold a feast in the cave on Midsummer’s Eve,
feet is her dog. In 1912, a dig revealed roasting lamb and lighting bonfires, much to
human remains in the cave, but the the delight of visitors. Witch fans can also visit
bones belonged to a man. To see the the nearby Witch Museum to learn more about
witch, book a tour of the cave. the witch trials.

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 DARE YOU VISIT THE… WITCHES’ CAVES?

BLACK ANNIS’
BOWER CLOSE
A small cave in the Dane Hills,
Leicestershire, is believed to be the
home of Black Annis. This folklore
favourite is an old crone with a blue
face and iron claws, who enjoys
feasting on humans. She makes a
great cautionary tale since she prowls
the area at night, seeking to snatch
up misbehaving children. According
to legend, she dug the cave out of the
cliff using only her claws.

MOTHER
GRUNDY’S
PARLOUR
MOTHER SHIPTON’S CAVE Creswell Crags is a limestone gorge in
Nottinghamshire, UK, dating back to
Location: Knaresborough, England, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£) the Ice Age. One of its caves is known
as Mother Grundy’s Parlour, named
In local legend, Ursula Sontheil was born in the cave in for its 18th century resident. She left
1488 during a thunderstorm. Her mother refused to name the local village of Creswell after being
her father, leading to rumours he was the devil himself. accused of witchcraft and moved into
Separated from her mother at a young age, Ursula stayed the cave. The villagers invited her back
close to the cave as she grew up and learned to make after she cured the child of a local
potions with the plants she found in the nearby woods. landowner, but Mother Grundy chose
After her husband died, she kept his surname and became to stay in her cave. Another cave also
known as Mother Shipton. People mocked her for her has a huge collection of what have
apparent witch-like appearance, but happily made use been called “protective witch marks”
of her talent for healing and fortune-telling. She became carved into its walls.
known as a prophetess, and apparently foretold the Great
Fire of London and the invention of ships made of iron.
People visit her cave now for the Petrifying Well, whose
Image source: Geograph

waters turn items left there slowly into stone. The cave
is also England’s oldest tourist attraction, having seen
visitors since way back in 1630!

91
91
and

Europe’s forests once stretched across the continent and its

islands, and were home to many myths and magical sites,
some of which can still be visited today

WORDS ALICE PATTILLO

& APRIL MADDEN

92
 TA K E
CA R E
Nature can be
mistress, so a cruel
make sure yo
the proper pr u take
ecautions whe
exploring it: n
Enlist an expe
stick to trails rt,
, wear sensib
clothing and le
never walk
alone!
Image source: Adobe Stock

93
SACRED SITES

POKAINI FOREST
Location: Naudītes Pagasts, Latvia Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

he mysterious clusters of rocks deep in this

Latvian forest have lured people deep into the
woodlands for centuries. Numerous theories
have been proposed, such as they were
collected in order to build a castle that never
materialised or simply discarded while clearing
nearby fields for farming. Neither explanation entirely
makes sense, and that’s why many believe the forest is a
powerful, spiritual place thanks to these piles of pebbles,
while others deem the woods haunted or a portal to
another realm.

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 PETRIFYING WOODS, FAIRY FORESTS AND SACRED GROVES

BLACK FOREST
Location: Baden-Württemberg, Germany Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

The Black Forest is a gigantic, ancient forest folklore stories such as Red Riding Hood,
that stretches across the mountains of Hansel and Gretel, Rapunzel and Snow
southwest Germany, 100 miles long and White, all said to have been inspired by the
up to 30 miles wide, and is as shrouded thickets of the Black Forest and its untamed
in mystery as its forest floor is shrouded nature – the original fairytales didn’t all have
in darkness by the thick, dense canopy of happy endings, unlike the sanitised Disney
conifers. The Brothers Grimm collected versions we are familiar with today.

Left: The deep groves of the

Black Forest are home to some
of Europe’s darkest and most
magical imaginings, as well as
familiar fairytales

HOIA-BACIU FOREST
Location: Transylvania, Romania Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

Romania is full of haunted places, but

nowhere in the Transylvania region is quite
so supernaturally charged than Hoia-Baciu
Forest – in fact, it might be the creepiest
forest in the world.
Located just outside of Cluj-Napoca,
this 250-hectare stretch of woodland has
everything from UFOs to vanishings and
ghosts. Supposedly, alarm bells started
ringing when a shepherd went missing here
with 200 sheep, and a girl once disappeared
in the woods, only to be found five years later
as if she’d only been gone a day. In 1968,
a military technician photographed what
looked like an extraterrestrial spaceship
hovering over the Clearing – the forest’s
most frightening spot. Many of the trees in
Hoia-Baciu grow in peculiar ways: twisted,
contorted, gnarly trunks that often spiral
clockwise and cannot be explained by
any scientist. Bizarre noises, footsteps,
sensations you are being watched, shadow
figures… Hoia-Baciu has it all.

95
 CANNOCK CHASE
Location: Staffordshire, England, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

This Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty

is also a paranormal hotspot. In 2007,
werewolves were reportedly sighted here;
EPPING FOREST from 1988 until the early 90s, there were
numerous UFO sightings and the area also
has its own grey lady – dubbed The Lady of
Location: Essex, England, UK
Time zone: UTC the Chase – a pale figure of a nude woman
Currency: Pound sterling (£) with hypnotic eyes who instils dread in those
she comes across. There have also been
This large woodland north of London accounts of black-eyed children – an urban
holds the title of England’s most legend commonly sighted across the US,
haunted forest. Thanks to its close black-eyed children are a paranormal entity
proximity to the Big Smoke, many that appears as a pale, black-eyed child
murdered bodies have been buried between the ages of six and 16. Others say
here, allegedly including many of these so-called black-eyed children are the
the notorious Kray twins’ victims. ghosts of the three young girls who were
Highwayman Dick Turpin used a tragically murdered and discovered within
cave in the forest as a hideout for the woodlands in the 1960s. More recently,
many years, the ghost of whom TV baby dolls were found nailed to some of the
show Most Haunted made contact trees, adding to the eerie mystery of the area.
with in 2003. But many more

WISTMAN’S WOOD
phantoms can be found between
the unkempt trees of this ancient
woodland, including the spirit of
Celtic queen Boudicca, apparitions
of a headless horseman, a horseman Location: Devon, England, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)
with his head (and a tricorn hat and
black cape) atop a black stallion, This wood in Devon’s Dartmoor national the ancient glades: these hellhounds with
the ghost of a drowned girl, a park is one of the UK’s last few ancient shadow-coloured coats and red eyes are said
headless biker and a horse-drawn temperate rainforests, sometimes called to be driven by the devil, who uses them to
carriage. Other poltergeist activity Atlantic rainforests or Celtic rainforests. A hunt down innocent victims. One local man
is also common, with many reports remnant of the ancient woodlands that once returning from Widdecombe Fair is believed
of being touched or pushed by covered much of the UK and Ireland, this Site to have once called out to the passing
seemingly nothing. Epping Forest of Special Scientific Interest is also a darkly cavalcade “How goes the hunt?” to which the
also has its very own execution site magical place. Its name comes from the old huntsman replied “Take that!” and threw him
– Hangman’s Hill – where the figure West Country dialect word ‘whisht’, which a satchel. Thinking it might be full of meat or
of a man can be seen. If you leave means uncanny, eerie, and even fey. Believed even money, the man picked up the bag and
your car in neutral, it will supposedly to be the most haunted woodland in the UK, hurried home with it – only to find the bloody
roll upwards towards the tree that Whist Hounds are thought to run through body of his baby son inside.
once bore a noose.

Above: Dartmoor’s
magical Wistman’s
Wood is a nexample
of an ancient Celtic
rainforest

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 PETRIFYING WOODS, FAIRY FORESTS AND SACRED GROVES

NEMI’S SACRED GROVE

Location: Lazio, Italy Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

he Roman goddess Diana is most often

associated with the moon, but in her aspect
of Diana Nemorensis – ‘Diana of the Wood at
Nemi’ she was worshipped in a temple and
sacred grove at this site on the shores of Lake
Nemi. Here she was served in her aspect of
huntress and healing goddess by a priest-king called the
Rex Nemorensis. If a runaway slave broke off a branch from
a sacred tree in Diana’s sacred grove, he could challenge
the Rex Nemorensis to a fight to the death for the title.

Below: The Roman

goddess Diana
Nemorensis ruled over
the wooded shores of
Lake Nemi, where her
temple was built

97
 SACRED SITES

Sylvan secrets of
ANCIENT EUROPE
THE HOLY THORN
Location: Glastonbury, England, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Glastonbury is home to many legends, but its where it blossomed into a hawthorn,
Holy Thorn is so real that branches of it are the ancestor of Glastonbury’s Holy
presented to the British monarch at Thorn. Uniquely, this variety of
Christmas. hawthorn blooms twice a year,
Legend has it that the once in spring and again in
biblical figure Joseph of winter, near Christmas.
Arimathea had once HOLY Together with a walnut
visited the Somerset SECRETS tree that flowered at
town with the young Cuttings of the Holy Thorn midsummer, it was
Jesus, and after Christ’s are now grown in the grounds of said to be a sign of the
death he returned there Glastonbury Abbey, St John the town’s divine favour.
with the Holy Grail. Baptist church, and near the local Sadly, due to
Tired, he pushed his school. Cuttings also grow in repeated vandalism, the
walking stick into the the USA, Canada and most famous Holy Thorn
ground on Wearyall Hill, Australia. was removed in 2019.

CELTIC TREE WISDOM

Location: Western Europe Time zone: UTC/+1 Currency: Czech koruna, Hungarian forint, Euro (€), Pound sterling (£)

Across the former Celtic nations (those in

the British Isles, Ireland, northwest France, Below: In Celtic belief,
trees were sacred and
northwest Spain, and northern Portugal, as symbolic, especially
well as the original Celtic tribal homelands oak, ash, and hawthorn
around the Danube) there existed a deep
and prevalent belief in the sacred nature of
trees. Oak, ash and thorn are the three most
magical. Hazel is said to contain wisdom,
apples represent immortality, and elder is a
fairy tree that must not be touched without
its permission.
Image source: Adobe Stock; Alamy; Getty; Wikimedia Commons

98
 PETRIFYING WOODS, FAIRY FORESTS AND SACRED GROVES

BROCELIANDE
Location: Paimpont, Brittany, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

he legendary magical forest of Broceliande is Merlin is not the only man imprisoned in the magical forest.
believed to be the modern-day Paimpont Forest Betrayed by her lover Guiomar, who abandons her thanks to the
in Ille-et-Vilaine, Brittany. Today it’s home to two meddling of her rival Queen Guinevere, Morgan Le Fey leaves
beautiful châteaux, the former castles of the Château King Arthur’s court at Camelot and sets out for Broceliande,
de Trecésson, thought to be home to mischievous where she uses her formidable magic to craft the Val Sans
fairy maidens known as the Dames Blanches (‘White Ladies’) Retour (‘Valley of No Return’) . The valley is packed with trials
and now privately owned, and the Château de Comper, once said designed to appeal to chivalrous knights: a cliff-fanged pool that
to be the home of Viviane, the Lady of the Lake, who legend has must be crossed, a wall of fire that must be passed through,
it lives in a crystal castle beneath the château’s pond. Today, the and a pair of dragons to fight. Morgan baits her trap with a
castle itself hosts the Centre de’Imaginaire Arthurien, a cultural sign at the head of the valley claiming that only a knight who
centre that focuses on the Matter of Britain, which despite its is faithful to his lady can pass the tests within. Those who do
name deals with French legend as much as that of the UK. It’s not are trapped inside forever (although given that Morgan
a body of ancient and medieval works that relate to the gods, provides these failures with feasts, games, dances and each
heroes, kings and legends of Britain and Brittany, and it’s replete other’s company, it seems more like a medieval boy’s club than
with Arthurian myth. a magical prison!). Even Morgan’s own son Yvain is trapped
So too is the forest in which the Centre de’Imaginaire within, until Sir Lancelot, with his blind loyalty to the adulterous
Arthurien makes its home. The wizard Merlin is said to be Queen Guinevere, passes the trials and breaks the spell. You can
entombed here. The half-demonic sorcerer was enamoured with visit the site of the Val Sans Retour; it’s near Tréhorenteu and
a fairy enchantress (in various versions she is Nimue, Viviane, features an artwork called the Golden Tree.
the Lady of the Lake, any one of a number of unnamed witch Morgan’s son Yvain soon found other ways to get into trouble
queens, or even Morgan Le Fey herself). Tired of his romantic in the magical forest. Near the village of Folle Pensée is the
advances and having learned all the magic she could from him, Fountain of Barenton. Drinking from its golden bowl without
Merlin’s inamorata seals the magician into a cave, or rock, or permission, Yvaine found himself locked in combat with a
tree. While there are other locations given for Merlin’s tomb, fearsome Black Knight. The fountain is believed to summon
such as the Île de Sein off Finistère in the Atlantic Ocean, most storms, but give it a pretty hairpin and if the water bubbles,
of the legends agree that the wizard’s last home is Broceliande. folklore says you’ll be married before the next Easter.

Below: This ancient

forest is reputed to be
full of fairy magic and
Arthurian legends like
the grave of Merlin

ntain
Above: The Fou
of Barenton is
said to summon
dict
storms and pre
marriages

99
SACRED SITES

Amazing
Life is a journey, and our fascination with labyrinths is our
attempt to lay out the journey on the ground in front of us

WORDS EDOARDO ALBERT

abyrinths are old. They were have people been fascinated by labyrinths terms are often used interchangeably in
first recorded around 2000 in so many different places and at so many English. Strictly speaking, a labyrinth has a
BCE in North Africa and different times? single path to the centre, with no dead ends
southern Europe. Labyrinths We’ve all been lost at some point in or alternative paths, while a maze has many
are worldwide. They have been our lives. We’ve all searched for the right blind alleys and routes that lead nowhere.
constructed on every continent and by most path. This applies both to wayfinding and The classical labyrinth forms a single looping
cultures. Labyrinths recur. The same basic to life itself. The labyrinth is the physical path that consists of seven circuits with eight
design has appeared, independently and by representation of this. There is a destination walls; it comes in circular and square designs.
diffusion, all over the world. Labyrinths occur to reach, the centre of the labyrinth, but the All early labyrinths are of this type.
in waves. There is a great burst of labyrinth path there is difficult and, should the centre Roman labyrinths, which were usually
building and then everything goes quiet be reached, there is still the difficulty of laid on mosaic floors but which were rarely
before a new wave of labyrinths appears. getting back out again. large enough to walk, developed the classical
And labyrinths are back. We are in a Symbolically, the labyrinth is the journey design and medieval builders took this
new age of labyrinth building with literally to the lost centre. It combines within its further, creating the eleven circuit labyrinth
thousands of labyrinths having been symbolism both the circle and the spiral, seen on the floor of Chartres Cathedral
constructed in the last few decades. Which combining them to create a path. A labyrinth and elsewhere. Medieval designers also
of course begs the question: why? Why is not the same as a maze, although the two experimented with creating new designs,

100
 AMAZING LABYRINTHS

HAMPTON
Below: The classical labyrinth pattern
that recurs throughout the world: note
that if you simply keep going, you will
reach the centre of the labyrinth
COURT MAZE
Location: Molesey, Richmond, UK
Time zone: UTC
Currency: Pound sterling (£)

The maze at Hampton Court really

is a maze, not a labyrinth. There
are dead ends and false paths and
visitors often get lost. The maze
is younger than the palace, having
been commissioned by William III
who reigned from 1689 to 1702. The
maze was planted during the great
explosion of puzzle mazes in the
17th and 18th centuries, when the
nobility saw them as entertaining
diversions and statements of wealth
to be included in the grounds of
using more or fewer circuits and new Ages and they became very popular in the their houses. It was first planted
connections between the paths to create 17th and 18th centuries as additions to the with hornbeam but the palace
unique labyrinths. gardens of stately houses. A great trick to gardeners later replaced the
The current revival of interest in labyrinths get out of most of these mazes is to simply hornbeam with yew. It is Britain’s
has produced many unique designs. The oldest surviving hedge maze, with
trail one hand on the wall, never taking it off.
an unusual trapezoid shape. The
essential labyrinth, a single turning path However, more complicated mazes were
maze was designed by George
leading to a centre, has been twisted and developed in the 19th century that defeated
London and Henry Wise. In Jerome
turned, on occasions shifting into mazes. this ploy. To escape from these requires more K Jerome’s classic comedy novel
Puzzle mazes first appeared in the Middle complicated strategies. Three Men in a Boat, the three
men decide to take a few minutes
strolling round the maze – Harris
assures his fellow boaters that all
“ T he cllassiicall labbyriinth
h forms a siinggle looppingg path
h they have to do is keep turning right
that consists of seven circuits with eight walls; – only for them to be lost for hours.
Most visitors take 20 minutes to get
it comes in circular and square designs” to the centre of the maze.

101
 Below: The labyrinth
SACRED SITES in Chartres Cathedral.
Note the chairs pushed
back out of the way:
normally they cover

LABYRINTH
most of the labyrinth

OF CRETE
Location: Near Kastelli, Crete
Time zone: UTC+2 Currency: Euro (€)

Hidden deep within the labyrinth of King Minos the monster

prowled, waiting for the victims delivered to him. But this time
Theseus intended to give the Minotaur a surprise.
The story of Theseus and the Minotaur is the most famous
of all the labyrinth legends. Like the other legends of antiquity
it was generally regarded as nothing more than a story – until
Sir Arthur Evans discovered the lost Minoan civilisation of Crete
in the early 20th century. The palace complex at Knossos is
the best known of these finds but the excavations there did not
uncover anything like a maze.
But now archaeologists have discovered a labyrinthine
structure on top of a hill in Crete near the town of Kastelli. The
structure consists of eight concentric stone rings with bisecting
walls that form small rooms. This new find has a diameter of
157 feet (48 metres), with a central circular zone that has walls
radiating out from it.
Using the fragments of pottery found on the site,
archaeologists have dated the structure to between 2000
BCE and 1700 BCE – the heyday of the Minoan civilisation.
Archaeologists have also found lots of animal bones on the site,
suggesting that it was the site for feasting and ritual sacrifice. CHARTRES
CATHEDRAL
The tantalising prospect arises that this might have been the
labyrinth through which Theseus crept, trailing out the thread he
had been given by the King’s daughter, Ariadne, so that he could
find his way out again afterwards. It’s far too early to say this is Location: Chartres, France Time zone: UTC+1
the case but then, no one believed Troy was real until Heinrich Currency: Euro (€)
Schliemann found it.
Set into the nave of Chartres Cathedral, perhaps the most
Below: A Roman floor sublime of all Gothic churches, is a 42-foot (13-metre)
mosaic showing Theseus labyrinth. It’s a true labyrinth, which means that it has a
confronting the Minotaur at
the centre of the labyrinth single path that winds to the centre, symbolising the one
path that leads to salvation. The labyrinth was laid down in
the early 13th century as the cathedral was being built and
it proved popular, with many other churches and cathedrals
laying down labyrinths too – only to take them up again in
most cases when they proved too popular and people were
distracted during mass.
Visitors to Chartres Cathedral today sometimes complain
of not being able to find the labyrinth. It is right there, in the
nave, but if the cathedral’s chairs are out they cover most
of the labyrinth. For labyrinth walkers the best day to go is
on the Fridays during Lent, when the chairs are moved out
of the way between 10.30am and 5pm and the cathedral is
happy to host labyrinth walkers. The centre of the labyrinth
corresponds to the centre of the rose window of the façade,
where Christ appears in majesty, uniting the pilgrim path to
its true destination.

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 AMAZING LABYRINTHS

TROY TOWN Below: There aren’t ma

Location: St Agnes, Scilly Isles, UK spectacularly sited laby
ny more
rinths than
Troy Town on St Agnes
Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

If a labyrinth is a journey, then getting to this one adds

further layers to the journey: a trip, by boat or plane,
to St Mary on the Scilly Isles and then a ferry ride
to St Agnes. Troy Town labyrinth lies on the west of
the island, next to the farm that takes its name from
the labyrinth (‘Troy Town’ was a common name for
labyrinths in the 17th and 18th centuries as the pattern
was supposed to resemble the winding streets of
ancient Troy). The labyrinth is beautifully situated by
the sea (although this is true for just about everywhere
on the Scilly Isles). Troy Town is securely dated to the
early 18th century when the local lighthouse keeper,
Amor Clarke, laid out the stones. The group that
renovated the labyrinth in 1988 claim to have found
evidence of a much earlier labyrinth but unfortunately
they did not record or photograph their discoveries,
so this remains uncertain. There are few more scenic
labyrinths in the world.

JULIAN’S
BOWER
Location: Lincolnshire, England, UK
Time zone: UTC
Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Julian’s Bower is a turf-cut labyrinth set

into the hillside above the confluence
of the rivers Trent and Ouse. It’s next
to Countess Close, a large medieval
earthwork. Julian’s Bower is 36 feet (12
metres) in diameter. Walking the path
provides excellent views of the rivers
below. The labyrinth was first recorded
in 1697 but probably predates that. The
local parish church, St John the Baptist
in Alkborough, has a copy of the labyrinth
plan embedded in its floor and in the
stained-glass window above the altar,
Above: Julian’s Bower. Over
both gifts of J Goulton-Constable, a local
Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy

the fields in the distance the historian, who installed them so that the
Trent and the Ouse merge to
labyrinth pattern could be preserved and
mark the start of the Humber
used as a template whenever the turf had
to be recut.

103
 RS
WO

DE
TE

R F U L WA
N

106 STREAMS OF CONSCIOUSNESS

European rivers with hidden depths

112 HOLY WELLS AND

SACRED SPRINGS
Sacred waters with mystical powers

116 REFLECTING POOLS

Lake legends

122 INTO THE SEA

Secrets of Europe’s surrounding seas

104
105
WONDERFUL WATERS

Below: Vital to all life, water, and

in particular rivers, have been
worshipped across the world for
millennia by countless cultures

Streams of
The depths of Europe’s greatest rivers hide all manner of myths and
legends, from water nymphs to prowling monsters

WORDS BEE GINGER

106
 STREAMS OF CONSCIOUSNESS

THE THAMES
THE SEVERN Location: London and Thames Valley,
Location: Wales and England, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£) England, UK
Time zone: UTC
Currency: Pound sterling (£)
At 354 kilometres (220 miles), the River name from a princess called Sabrina, who
Severn is the longest river in the UK was sent to a watery grave by her wicked
Old Father Thames is a symbol of
and boasts 13 tributaries. Beginning its stepmother Gwendolen. She then became
renewal and plenty, the site of sacred
journey at Plynlimon in the Cambrian a water-nymph and river goddess. Celtic
rites since time immemorial. The
Mountains of Wales and ending at the scholars believe the precise name to have
name is derived from the Brittonic
Severn Estuary before flowing out into been Samarosina, which means ‘land of
name for the river, Tamesis, and the
the Bristol Channel and the Atlantic summertime fallow’, and that Sabrina is
Proto-Celtic tamēssa, meaning ‘dark
Ocean, it is by far the most voluminous a Latinised version of this name that was
water’, a title first recorded in 51 BCE
flow of water in the country. These tides recorded as early as the 2nd century CE.
in the writings of Julius Caesar.
can create a natural phenomenon called There are many other myths associated
Old Father Thames himself bears
a tidal bore, causing the waters to flow with the river, including terrifying river
similarities to Achelous, the god of
against the current and forcing the river monsters and a beast known as the
the largest river in Greece. Celtic
to flow the other way around. Deerhurst Dragon, who was killed by a
gods Belinus and Lud were also
Steeped in legend, the River Severn, local villager, earning him unlimited free
associated with the river, as was Isis,
or Afon Hafren in Welsh, takes its beer in his local pub.
the Egyptian goddess of motherhood,
fertility, rivers and nature. Isis’ name
was used in around 1540 for the
river. It’s possibly an abbreviation
of Tamesis, or it may have been
Above: The source of the Danu
be is influenced by religious studies
enclosed in an elegant stone basin conducted at the now prestigious
ds of
that can be found in the groun Oxford University; the part of the
e
the Prince of Fürstenberg’s palac
river flowing through the city of
Oxford still uses the name today.
In many faiths sacrifices were a
necessity when it came to appeasing
the divine and would be made as
offerings to rivers. Many people
believe London Bridge – with the
ghosts of traitors’ heads watching
down from it – to have been a site of
such sacrifice. The children’s song
London Bridge is Falling Down is said
THE DANUBE to support this idea, as it was thought
that unless a human sacrifice was
buried in the bridge’s foundations the
Location: Central Europey Time zone: Various Currency: Hungarian forint, Euro (€)
bridge would collapse.
In modern times the Thames
Flowing across southeastern and central seduced sailors, and as a wise old woman
serves the UK’s Hindu community as
Europe, the continent’s second-largest split like the river into three parts and
a sacred river akin to the Ganges, and
river passes through ten countries before joined the Black Sea.
was blessed as such in 1970. Diwali
culminating in the Black Sea. It was once A similar legend has it that at the
lamps, offerings, paper prayers,
a key imperial border for the Romans, bottom of the river on the Jochenstein
statues of the gods and even people’s
whose river god was named Danuvius. rock lives Isa, the mermaid of the Danube,
ashes all find their way downriver.
Originating in Germany’s Black Forest her home a wondrous crystal fairytale
mountain range, it is one of the most vital castle. In treacherous weather she shows
sources of fresh drinking water in central sailors the way to safety, but if they listen
Europe. Diverse geography and the to her melodic song for too long she may
rich mix of cultures along the Danube’s well take them to her castle at the bottom
shores whisper countless legends, myths, of the river to stay with her forever. If you
tales and songs from source to mouth. listen carefully you may catch a few notes
Serbian, Romanian and Bulgarian folk of Johann Strauss’ famous waltz The Blue
songs and fairytales tell stories of Mother Danube, which is often used as a lullaby...
Danube herself, a mythical figure who but be sure you don’t mistake it for the
gave life to wildlife, fish and plants, songs of the mermaid…

107
WONDERFUL WATERS

THE TAGUS THE BOYNE

Location: Spain, Portugal Location: Leinster, Ireland
Time zone: UTC+1 Time zone: UTC
Currency: Euro (€) Currency: Euro (€)

Originating in the Montes Universales The River Boyne rises from the Carbury
mountains, the Tagus culminates near Lisbon, Bog in County Kildare and wends its way
Portugal, where it empties into the Atlantic
Ocean. It takes its name from the ancient
THE ELBE through lush woodland and rolling fields
for 112 kilometres (70 miles) before joining
Greek tagus, a Thessalian title for general or Location: Czech Republic, Germany the Irish Sea. Deriving its name from Bóann
leader. However, an alternative possibility is Time zone: UTC+1 (or Bóand), a legendary Celtic goddess, the
that the river was originally named Tago, which Currency: Czech Koruna, Euro (€) river is believed to be the place where the
was the name of an Iberian king murdered by Rising in the northern Czech Republic’s Salmon of Knowledge was captured. Irish
the Carthaginian general Hasdrubal. Karkonosze Mountains (Giant Mountains) mythology also tells us of the Tobar Segais
According to some historical accounts and flowing 1,094 kilometres (680 miles) (Well of Wisdom), which belonged to Bóann’s
it was traditionally a source of gold for the through large parts of Bohemia and Germany husband, Nechtain, the king of Leinster. The
famously wealthy Portuguese royalty. There before joining the North Sea northwest of king was very protective of it, allowing only
are even said to have been mythological Hamburg at Cuxhaven, the River Elbe is one three others to frequent it, even excluding his
nymphs inhabiting the river. First mentioned of Central Europe’s major rivers. It’s also queen. One day the goddess visited wanting
in a poem by André de Resende, they were home to a series of tragic monuments known to see its magic for herself, but on peering
later immortalised by Camões in his poem Os as hunger stones. into the waters tragedy struck – the waters
Lusíadas (‘The Lusiads’). These stones were first erected in the rose up and drowned Bóann.
15th century to warn future generations of
impending famine, drought and hardships.
When the river’s water level drops to a certain
depth an inscription carved into stone can
be seen. One stone, engraved in 1616, reads
“Wenn du mich siehst, dann weine”, which
translates as “If you can see me, weep”. These
unique stones remain popular curiosities and
are an important hydrological sign; the most
recent stones were uncovered in the summer
of 2022 during a time of drought.

THE RHONE
Location: Switzerland, France
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Swiss franc, Euro (€)
THE RHINE
Location: Western Europe Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Swiss franc, Euro (€)
The Rhône has been a major trade route
since ancient times and an integral waterway
during the medieval period that linked France The majestic River Rhine is one particularly strong and treacherous.
and Switzerland to the Mediterranean. Near of the most historic waterways in The raging waters create and amplify
the river’s mouth at Arles the flow divides in Europe. Beginning its journey in the an eerie echo, prompting numerous
two, creating the Little and the Great Rhône. southeastern Swiss Alps, it weaves legends, including that of a beautiful
Arles became an integral centre of Roman through Switzerland, Austria, Germany, a maiden who flung herself from this
power, and where trade travelled so did new the Principality of Liechtenstein and spot into the Rhine after discovering her
religions, traditions and legends, including France before finally merging with the lover had been faithless. Transformed by
that of the Tarasque dragon, which lived along North Sea near the city of Rotterdam in the waters, she returned as a siren who
the banks around the town Tarascon. Any who the Netherlands. sat atop the rock luring sailors to their
dared to fight it faced certain death. That was Due to the large number of historic doom with her beauty and song.
until Saint Martha sprinkled holy water on her towns, fortresses and picturesque
cross and held it up to the beast. The creature castles erected along a large stretch
immediately became obedient, enabling of the Middle Rhine, it is listed under
Martha to lead it into a nearby village. UNESCO. Sankt Goarshausen in
Germany is one such location to be
explored in the Rhine Valley. Here stands
the Lorelei Rock, infamous for numerous
maritime disasters dating back to the
10th century, calamities caused by
its position where the currents are

108
 STREAMS OF CONSCIOUSNESS

THE SEINE
Location: Northern France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

merging at Source-Seine 30 kilometres water is at its purest. In Gallic mythology Sequana is

(18 miles) northwest of Dijon, the Seine thought of as the healing goddess of the river, and on
navigates her way through Paris, passing 15 April 2019 her powers were put to the test when the
under the city’s 37 bridges on a journey water of the Seine saved the Cathedral of Notre Dame
of 777 kilometres (482 miles) through as it stood ablaze. With firefighters tapping the river
Normandy’s picturesque countryside to water to assuage the flames, many believe the spirit
join the English Channel at Le Havre. The river is over of the Seine helped to save one of the most beautiful
14,000 years old and has not altered much since 12,000 cathedrals in the world.
BCE. These banks, however, hold a rich history, having Believed to have received the ashes of Joan of Arc
witnessed thousands of years of tradition and culture when they were scattered at Rouen, the Seine came
along the waterway. The river even boasts her own under the governance of Paris in 1864 during the
goddess, Sequana, nymph of the Seines’ springs, which reign of Napoleon III, whose famous uncle of the same
are located at Source-Seine in Burgundy Franche- name had asked to be buried on its shores. Today its
Comte, an ancient Gallo-Roman sanctuary where the riverbanks remain a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Below: The Seine has been a

source of endless inspiration
for countless European artists,
including Renoir, Seurat,
Lebourg and Monet

109
WONDERFUL WATERS

THE LOST RIVERS OF LONDON

Location: London, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Stretching across the heart of the City of passing above ground and remaining largely continue to flow – although thankfully they
London lies Old Father Thames, a landmark unnoticed, others hidden underground are no longer used as open sewers as in pre-
known to visitor and Londoner alike and buried beneath streets and buildings as the Victorian times. You could be standing over a
the subject of etchings, paintings, songs capital has continued to grow. The city’s piece of aquatic history and not even know it,
and photos for centuries. But less is known landscape was once shaped by the valleys as in order to locate traces of these rivers you
of the 21 tributaries that flow from around and hills created by these rivers, and while would have to look in some unlikely places.
Greater London into the Thames; some much of it is now hidden from view they Under Buckingham Palace, for example, flows
the River Tyburn, once famed for
its salmon... and its gallows. Over
50,000 people died on its banks.
As the city’s population grew
dozens of canals and rivers were
converted into sewers, which
at the time was a necessity;
now they would have served to
enhance the city’s landscape.
Once required for sluicing waste,
drinking water and industry,
it soon became apparent that
a newer and more effective
system needed to be conceived,
leaving many rivers forgotten or
repurposed in the background of
a rapidly expanding city.
These rivers helped shape
the city in numerous ways, from
creating paths for the railways
Above: London’s rivers to follow to providing boundaries
and streams used to between the different boroughs.
be freely accessible,
but industry and Canals were converted into
development drove underground sewers to assist
them underground industrial growth and make way
for new residential areas.

THE FLEET Below: Much of the river remains underground as part

Location: London, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£) of the sewer network, although you can still swim in its
waters in the ponds on Hampstead Heath, which are fed
by the river’s source
As the city’s largest hidden river, the population grew, the Fleet became
Fleet is perhaps the most well-known used as a dumping ground for all
as it was vital to medieval life and things unpleasant, including sewage,
formed a key part of Roman industry. industrial waste and the remains
Wide enough to accommodate ships, of dead animals from Smithfield
the lower section was essential Market. In time it resembled more
for trade and was used daily by of an open-air sewer than a healthy
Londoners for bathing, drinking and waterway. Even the famed architect
fishing. Due to the large number of Christopher Wren’s attempt to
wells built along the banks it became resolve the pungent issue with a
known as the River of Wells in the Venetian-style canal proved fruitless.
11th century, with many thought to Eventually it was incorporated into
possess healing qualities. However, new sewage tunnels, but not before
as industry expanded and the the Great Stink of 1858.

110
THE MOSELLE BROOK
Location: London, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)

Today much of the Moselle Brook in the north Scottish king being healed of a disease by
of London is covered over, but through the imbibing the well’s water. This may have
culverts that channel it flows a river steeped
in legend. Once referred to as the “sparkling
been Robert the Bruce, who visited the
site and, according to some accounts, was
THE EFFRA
Moselle”, this tributary of the River Thames cured of leprosy. While the veracity of this Location: London, UK
used to teem with fish, and its waters were story is difficult to establish, what is beyond Time zone: UTC
thought to possess healing properties. doubt is that local upper-class ladies used Currency: Pound sterling (£)
The ‘Mossy Well’, which is now capped to send staff down to the river to collect
beneath a house on Muswell Road, was water for their tea – but that was long before Once part of Lamberth’s rolling
dedicated to Mary and attracted many industrialisation sadly polluted it. A sip from countryside, the River Effra too
pilgrims. There are even accounts of a the brook today is not advised! was forced underground and
incorporated into London’s
sewer system to allow for new
neighbourhoods and housing.
The river’s name is a little up to
interpretation, with some believing
it comes from Hethra, the river
valley it ran along, the Celtic word
for ‘torrent’, or a derivative of the
early medieval word for ‘bank’.
Legend has it that King Cnut, the
Viking prince who conquered a
North Sea Empire that included
England, sailed down the river, and
that centuries later a Victorian
coffin from West Norwood Cemetery
once made its way along the Effra
and into the Thames.
Even after being covered, the
Effra refused to be contained
and continued to flood until the

THE WALBROOK
sewer was widened in the 1930s.
Remnants of the Effra still remain in
Brixton in the form of ‘stink pipes’,
towering tubes designed to allow
Location: London, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£) the smells and gases to escape the
sewer system.
The origins of the Walbrook’s name divides
opinion. Some accounts state that it comes
from the fact that the river ran through (or
alongside) the defensive wall the Romans
erected around London, hence ‘Wall brook’
becoming Walbrook. However, there is also
the suggestion that it comes from ‘weala
broc’, or ‘brook of the foreigners’. Whichever is
true, in the mid-3rd century CE the Romans
built a temple devoted to the Persian god of
light, Mithras, on the Walbrook’s east bank.
Here the Roman military would bathe in the
hot blood of slaughtered bulls to prove their
virility and valour. During construction work
in 1954 the temple was uncovered by chance
and relocated nearby. Artefacts from the
temple and debris from the river, including Below: Situated in the heart of
the City of London, the ‘Forgotten
tools, human skulls and the heads of Streams’ monument incorporates
forgotten gods, can be viewed at the Museum the flow of the Walbrook
of London.

111
WONDERFUL WATERS

Holy wells and

Sometimes water really

is the liquid of life

WORDS EDOARDO ALBERT

oday, when turning on the tap regarded as sacred to water spirits such
produces unlimited potable as nymphs. Although the two terms are
water, it’s difficult to appreciate sometimes used interchangeably, strictly
just how vital and awe-inspiring speaking a well is dug down to a water source
springs and wells were to our below ground while a spring has water
ancestors. To understand their importance flowing freely from the ground. Warm and
we must first realise that, for most of history, mineral water springs were often visited for
water was not so much the drink of life their healing properties, such as the waters
but a quick route to the grave. Waterborne flowing at Bath in the UK, which were already
diseases killed huge numbers of people, a spa in Roman times and possibly before.
particularly children. It’s not that people in The advent of Christianity further
the past did not understand this. There was sanctified these water sources. Water was
a reason the main drink in the Middle Ages central to Christian symbolism and practice,
was small beer and during the Roman Empire from the water used in baptism, to the wells
wine: fermentation made the water safe to mentioned in scripture, to the spirit of God
drink. People were perfectly well aware that moving over the waters at the moment
many water sources were unsafe. of creation. Wells and springs quickly
So at a time when a drink of water, while became associated with saints, many of
immediately life saving, might lead to you them acquiring legends of their origin from
spewing your guts up a few days later, the life of their saint. Britain and Ireland
sources of clean, pure, untainted water were, were particularly rich in such legends but,
literally, a blessing. This was water you could unfortunately, the Reformation saw many
drink and be confident that it wouldn’t kill of these stories suppressed and the wells
you. Water you could bathe in and be sure it abandoned since the Reformers saw such
would not make you ill. This was the water of tales as pagan and idolatrous.
life and springs, with their water bubbling up Recent times have seen a revival of interest
mysteriously from the earth, were its source. in sacred wells and springs, linked both to a
As such, it’s not surprising that springs and resurgence of interest in Christian pilgrimage
wells attracted stories and legends about routes and new neo-pagan veneration of
their origins and health giving properties. In natural springs. It seems that holy wells are
ancient times, wells and springs were often springing back.

112
 HOLY WELLS AND SACRED SPRINGS

BAGNO
VIGNONI
Location: Val D’Orcia, Tuscany, Italy
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)

On the via Francigena, the ancient

pilgrim path to Rome, as it passes
through Tuscany, there’s an old
Italian village, Bagno Vignoni. In most
respects it’s an ordinary village but in
one way it’s unique: where you’d find
the central piazza in most villages,
there’s a large pool, fed by upwelling
hot springs. While the central pool
is no longer open to bathers, nearby
in the Parco dei Mulini there’s a hot
spring that allows bathers to take
the waters for free. The pilgrims on
the via Francigena were not the first
to use the springs; the Etruscans
and Romans did so before them. As
the Bagno Vignoni became better
known, people such as Lorenzo the
Magnificent and St Catherine of
Siena stopped there on their way
to Rome.

Above: Water from springs and wells

was often the only safe source of
drinking water, which made it a true
blessing for those who lived near by

113
 ST BRIGID’S
WELL
Location: Liscannor, County Clare,
Ireland
Time zone: UTC
Currency: Euro (€)

ST WINEFRIDE’S WELL
Just a mile or so from the Cliffs of
Moher, there’s a little white building in
a walled garden. In the centre of the
garden there’s a statue of St Brigid, Location: Flintshire, Wales, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)
for whom the well is named. The
entrance to the building is an arched The Reformation, with its suspicion of the Reformation, Catholics, local and from
doorway – but there is no door in the popish practices, killed off the tradition of further afield, continued to visit the shrine.
doorway, for the well never closes. pilgrimage almost everywhere in England. Indeed, such was its reputation for healing
Duck down (it’s low) and enter the One place where pilgrimage survived that many Protestants also visited the well to
open door, and you will see before you through centuries of Catholic persecution take the waters.
a corridor festooned with offerings: was St Winefride’s Well in Wales. According By the 17th century, medicinal spas had
religious statues, rosaries, photos of to legend, the well itself sprung up where become popular around the country, so many
loved ones, leading to the well itself, Winefride’s head struck the ground people visited St Winefride’s Well seeking
a flint-tiled wall through which the when her would-be rapist, frustrated healing there because of the restorative
healing water trickles. There’s an alcove by Winefride’s attempts to escape him, effects of the water’s mineral content rather
covered with votive candles and the struck off her head with his sword. The than because of its spiritual associations.
space is accompanied by an almost rapist himself fell dead while the prayers However, miracles continued to occur at
overwhelming sense of peace. St of St Beuno brought Winefride back to life, the well, the most famous being the 1805
Brigid’s Well is one of the most visited unscathed apart from the thin white scar healing of Winefrid White from a left-side
holy wells in Ireland. Its position, close line around her neck. paralysis that had resulted in an inability to
to the Cliffs of Moher, helps in this The well became a place of pilgrimage, walk. People continue to bathe in the well,
regard but even more so is the palpable with many medieval English kings, including traditionally immersing themselves three
sense the well conveys of prayers Richard II and Henry IV, visiting the holy times. If you want to try the waters, check in
made and, sometimes, granted. Even a well, attracted both by its aura of sanctity advance to discover the times when bathing
cursory inspection of the offerings left and the miraculous healing properties is permitted; well water is always available
near the well reveal the effect it has had associated with its water. Despite various from a tap.
on many lives. attempts to suppress pilgrimages after

Right: The well cover was designed by

Frederick Bligh Bond, the two interlocking

CHALICE WELL
circles forming a vesica piscis, where
centre of each circle lies on the
circumference of the other circle

Location: Glastonbury, Somerset, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: £ (Pound sterling)

Glastonbury is one of the most numinous According to these, Joseph of Arimathea

sites in Britain so it’s appropriate that it visited Britain with Jesus during Jesus’s
should also have a holy well. The Chalice Well boyhood and there were indeed trade routes
rises from Chalice Hill, near Glastonbury Tor connecting the tin mines of Cornwall with
and, because its water contains iron oxide, the Mediterranean. After Jesus’s crucifixion
it’s also sometimes called the Red Spring and resurrection, legend tells that Joseph
because of the colour of its water. returned to Britain, bearing the Holy Grail,
The well produces 25,000 gallons (110,000 which he deposited at Glastonbury, under the
lires) of water each day and has reputedly well. Blood that Joseph had collected from
never run dry, even during the drought Jesus as he hung upon the cross flowed into
years of 1921-22. Archaeologists have found the water, thus giving the water its red colour.
evidence of human use of the well dating The garden surrounding Chalice Well is
back two thousand years. open to visitors but check opening times.
Chalice Well is intimately connected with When closed, well water is available from the
the legends that surround Glastonbury Tor. Lion’s Head fountain on Wellhouse Lane.

114
 HOLY WELLS AND SACRED SPRINGS

CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA IN VIA

Location: Rome, Italy Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

he servants of Cardinal picture and the waters subsided back

Pietro Capocci woke the into the well. Hearing of this miracle,
sleeping cardinal in the early Pope Alexander IV ordered a church
hours of 27 September 1256, built over the well.
calling him to come to the It’s there still – it is the Church of
stable where the well was overflowing. It Santa Maria in Via, in the Trevi district
wasn’t the water that was the problem: of the Italian capital city of Rome. The
there was something floating on the Chapel of the Madonna of the Well, with
water. Rushing there, the cardinal found the holy picture, is on the right of the
a picture of Mary, painted on a stone main altar of the church and there’s a
slab – and the stone was floating. niche in the chapel that dispenses water
Cardinal Capocci grabbed the from the holy well.

Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy, Getty

115
WONDERFUL WATERS

The still waters of the lakes across Europe have

always been sites of worship and mystery

WORDS BEN GAZUR

Above: Generations have

long wondered at the
mysteries lurking under
the waters of lakes

116
 REFLECTING POOLS

LAKE BLED
Location: Upper Carniolia, Slovenia
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)

At the centre of Lake Bled stands an

island which legend says was once a
hill in the middle of a beautiful glade
inhabited by fairies. When human
farmers allowed their sheep to graze
on the hill the fairies warned the
farmers to keep them back or they
would build a barrier to stop them.
PLITVICE LAKES The farmers allowed their flocks to
wander where they wished. Soon
the whole of the valley had been
Location: Karlovac County, Croatia Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)
stripped of its grass, leaving nothing
but brown mud and rocks. This
The Plitvice Lakes of Croatia form a before, they did so. At the spring the
so infuriated the fairies that they
series of bodies of waters that descend people were told to confess their secrets
retaliated by flooding the valley and
from the hills and are joined together by and the Black Queen would reward them,
it was this that formed Lake Bled.
picturesque waterfalls. The lakes were if they told the truth. All did so except one
Today a church stands on the
formed by the Black and White rivers selfish man. To help the honest people
island and it is associated with
eroding the natural soft rocks of the the Black Queen returned the rains, but
a tragic tale. A local couple were
area and legend has it these rivers were because of the selfish man the Black
created by a mystical figure called the Queen wept. The tears from one eye
Black Queen. formed the White River and the tears
When the people of the area were from the other created the Black River,
suffering from a terrible drought a voice and together they carved out the Plitvice
was heard from the heavens telling them Lakes. In the depths of Gavanovac lake
to visit a spring known as the Spring of there is said to be a treasure associated
Life. Since the voice of the Black Queen with fairies – but also that it will never be
had always given them good advice recovered by human hands.

deeply in love but one day the

husband was waylaid by robbers
LAKE PAVIN and killed. They tossed his body into
Lake Bled. The wife honoured her
Location: Puy-de-Dôme, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€) dead husband by offering a bell to
the church in the middle of the lake.
It took all of her money to afford the
Lake Pavin is a perfectly round body of spirits, who live in the depths, and goblins
bell but as it was being rowed across
water nestled in the crater of a volcano. who lurk in the forests surrounding it.
the lake a sudden storm sprang up
For generations locals held that the Some said that Lake Pavin was created
and tipped the bell into the water,
lake was bottomless and that unnamed by the devil himself, and filled with his
where it sank forever. Some say it
horrors dwelled far below the blue waters. tears at not being allowed to return to
can still be heard to this day.
Mysterious bubbles that disturb the heaven. Others said that God had made
The widow was bereft and sold her
water hinted at dark creatures below. the lake when he drowned a town full of
home to finance the construction
There are said to be undines, water sinners who once lived there.
of a new church on the island, but
Swimming across the lake was not
she could no longer stand to look
advised because it was able to suck
at Lake Bled. She moved into a
people down so that their bodies would
nunnery and died there years later.
never be recovered. Anyone who cast a
When her tale became known,
stone into the water was said to conjure
people gathered money to finance a
terrible evil. Some researchers think this
new bell. Those who visited believed
legend may have some truth – when deep
that striking the bell three times
lakes are disturbed they can occasionally
would grant their wishes.
release dangerous gasses.

117
WONDERFUL WATERS

LAKE ANNECY
Location: Haute-Savoie, France Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

he crystalline waters of Lake days, a mermaid informed the knight

Annecy may seem tempting that she could fetch the star for him,
to swimmers but there is but he must return with it to Bernoline
a legend which may make that very night, or his love will die. Near
visitors think twice before to his goal, the knight is then tricked by
entering. the devil in the shape of a fisherman,
In the Middle Ages a young lady who offered to row him across the lake
called Bernoline lived in a castle beside in exchange for his soul. He agreed, and
the lake but was deeply lonely. When the lovers lived happily for ten years,
a wandering knight on his way home before the devil came to collect. In her
from the Crusades visited, the two fell grief Bernoline was transformed into
in love and married. When Bernoline a mermaid with a fondness for pulling
saw a spectacular star in the sky her men into the water and devouring
knight promised to fetch it for her and them. When someone dies in the lake
left on an adventure. After a hundred Bernoline’s cries can be heard.

Above: Beneath the

waters of Lake Annecy
a dangerous mermaid
is said to have made
her home

118
 REFLECTING POOLS

LAKE
CERKNICA
Location: Inner Carniola, Slovenia
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)

For part of the year Lake Cerknica

is the largest lake in Slovenia but in

MINNEWATER
the summer, when the rains cease, it
disappears as the waters completely
drain away. Sometimes the lake will
remain for years at a time but at
Location: Bruges, West Flanders, Belgium Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)
others it does not refill which has
made it appear mysterious to locals
Visitors to Bruges often travel to Minnewater her an easy future. Minna and Stromberg
for generations.
to declare their undying love for each other pledged eternal love to each other.
Above the location of the lake is
on a bridge over the water. Lovers who cross While Stromberg was away Minna’s father
a cave where witches were said to
the bridge are said to remain in love forever. attempted to force her to marry, but she ran
live. As locals saw fogs descending
The association of Minnewater with love into the woods. When Stromberg returned
from the cave it was believed that the
can be traced to the legendary doomed from his journey he went in search for Minna
witches there created bad weather
romance of Minna and Stromberg. Minna but took days to find her. By the time he did
and released it into the region.
was a young lady that lived in the area who Minna was dead and Stromberg promised
The sinkholes in the area which
fell in love with Stromberg, a poor member of her eternal rest. He dammed the river
help to drain the lake are said to have
another tribe. Minna’s father did not approve running into the Minnewater and buried her
caused tragedy. Ruins near to the
of their relationship and instead betrothed there before releasing the water so no one
lake are the remains of a castle which
her to a wealthy man that could promise could ever disturb her tomb.
was abandoned by a baron when his
wife was swallowed, along with her

LAKE AVERNUS horses and carriage, by a sinkhole that

opened beneath her.

Location: Cuma, Campania, Italy Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

Lake Avernus was one of the most The deadly nature of the area led to
important lakes in Roman mythology. the idea that Lake Avernus was the
It sits on the volcanic Phlegraean entrance to underworld where the
Fields near to Mount Vesuvius in the souls of the dead go. In the Aeneid
Gulf of Naples. The name Avernus by Virgil the Roman hero makes his
derives from a Greek term meaning journey into the realm of the dead
“without birds” and came about by travelling through a cave on the
because of the toxic fumes which shore of Lake Avernus. Other authors
occasionally belched from the lake also said that Odysseus visited the
and killed creatures who got too underworld via Lake Avernus.
close. Such places were thought to Near to the lake there was a temple
be inhabited by Mephitis, the Roman built to the god Apollo, the god of
goddess of noxious airs. The lake was prophecy. On the shores of the lake
supposedly created by the shocks of was also the home to the Cumaean
the battle between Zeus and the Titans Sibyl, the most famed prophetess in
which left the whole area disturbed. the Roman world. It was she who told
Due to the bacteria living in the lake Aeneas how to reach the underworld,
it sometimes turns a vivid red, which and gave books of predictions which
might have made people think it was were consulted and revered by the
turning to blood. Romans for generations.

119
WONDERFUL WATERS

LAKE CONSTANCE ULLSWATER

Location: Border of Germany, Switzerland and Location: Cumbria, England, UK
Austria Time zone: UTC
Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Pound sterling (£)
Currency: Swiss franc, Euro (€)
Ullswater is the second largest lake in the
Visitors to the town of Konstanz on the English Lake District and has several links
shores of Lake Constance, may notice to the story of King Arthur. Near to the
something strange about the fountain called lake is a large circular earthwork that has
the Kaiserbrunnen. Several little bronze been called King Arthur’s Round Table for
creatures,half-rabbit and half-fish, spout
water into the fountain. Known as seehase,
LOUGH LEANE generations – in reality it is the remains of
a Neolithic henge. Legend has it that King
these mythical animals are said to live in
Location: County Kerry, Ireland Arthur’s famous sword Excalibur may lurk in
Time zone: UTC
Lake Constance. Each year in July, children the depths of Ullswater. As the king was dying
Currency: Euro (€)
wait at the port in Friedrichshafen for a highly he ordered that his sword be returned to the
decorated boat. Onboard is a person wearing Lough Leane in Ireland has been a site of Lady in the Lake who had first given it to him
a spotted rabbit costume carrying a large human habitation for thousands of years. and she lived in Ullswater.
sack full of toys and sweets. This festival is One of the islands in the lake is rich in The lake is also known as the Dark Lake
called the Seehasenfest. copper ore and pre-historic people mined for its gloomy waters, and medieval sources
it, which may have led to one of the myths hinted at spirits and monsters residing in its
of the lake. Pearls are sometimes found shadowy depths.
in the lake and these were formed when
a legendary smith who lived in the water
struck his anvil. As the sparks settled they
transformed into the pearls.
It was by the lake that the Irish hero Oisín
met Niamh, the beautiful daughter of the
sea god. The pair married and Oisín became
king of the land of eternal youth, known as
Tir na nÓg, and ruled there for 300 years.

LAKE GARDA
Location: Lombardy and Veneto, Italy Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

The largest lake in Italy, Lake Garda, is one of Bay of Mermaids spotted a long serpentine harmed by Bennie and many locals
the most romantic locations in Europe, so it creature rise from the waters before believe it to be a protector of the lake.
is fitting that one of its most famous legends disappearing into the depths. Others who
is linked with love. The lake was supposedly have seen Bennie claim it is a cross between Below: The capricious winds of Lake
Garda have given rise to legends of gods
created by the Roman sea god Neptune’s son a whale and snake. No one has ever been and monsters living under the water
Benaco. The poet Virgil said the waves of the
lake were like those of the ocean. Benaco had
travelled away from the sea to seek a new
home and fell in love with a nymph living in
a small mountain lake. She refused to follow
him away from her beloved home and so
Benaco promised to make them a grand new
place to live instead – and struck the ground
to create Lake Garda.
The lake was said to be home to mermaids
known as anguane who took the form of
beautiful women with either cloven hooves
or fish-tails. They emerged from the water
to wash their clothes on the shore and dry
them, and to seduce men. The anguane
are also said to help infertile couples have
children and care for babies.
Like many European bodies of water, Lake
Garda is supposedly home to a large and
mysterious monster, known as Bennie. In
1965 a group of tourist near to the lake’s

120
 REFLECTING POOLS

LAC DU GRAND-LIEU BLACK LAKE

Location: Žabljak, Montenegro
Location: Loire-Atlantique, France UK Time zone: UTC-1 Currency: Euro (€)
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)
Lac de Grand-Lieu is one of the largest lakes
in all of France, but according to legend
Black Lake, known as Crno jezero in
the lake had not always been there. Locals
Montenegrin, is a lake with a legend
believed that were the lake now stands was
about its formation involving a
once a rich town called Herbauges.
famous saint and miracles.
The people of Herbauges thought of
Where the lake is now was
nothing except their own pleasures and knew
once the site of a monastery
nothing of Christianity. In the 6th century a
which was visited by Saint Sava,
concerned bishop sent a holy man named
a Serbian prince and holy man.
Martin of Vertou to convert the citizens but
The monks welcomed Sava but
only two out of all the population listened to
were unconvinced that he had
him. God warned Martin that the town would
the sanctity which was attributed
be destroyed and to leave at once, so he took
to him, so they tested him. The
the converts with him. A deluge of rain fell
monks killed one of their roosters
and drowned Herbauges in a single night.
and slipped it into Sava’s bag, and
Today it is said that on Christmas Eve the
when he tried to leave they accused
bells of Herbauges can still be heard ringing
him of theft. When Sava saw this
under the lake.
he cursed the monastery, and the
village around it, and the whole area

LAKE MUMMELSEE
sank into the ground where the lake
is today.
Another version of the legend has
the monks join the saint and his
Location: Black Forest, Germany Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€) pupils on their journey away from
the monastery into the mountains.
When they stopped to eat, the
Below: The mountain monks had a feast for themselves
Lake Mummelsee may
be small but it is large but had only dry crusts of bread
enough to contain many for the saint. It was then he cursed
wonderful legends
the town. A horse drowned with the
monastery is said to emerge from
the lake sometimes.

Below: The peculiar shape

of Black Lake is thought to
spring from its miraculous
creation in an act of divine
vengeance by a saint

The small lake Mummelsee is rich with they returned to the lake by a certain time.
folklore and legend. The most famous story One of the men fell in love with one of the
of the lake is that it is inhabited by a nix, or mermaids and so set the town clock back
mermaid. Depending on the version told by an hour to have more time with her.
this nix is either a beautiful woman who When the mermaid failed to return at the
Image source: Adobe Stock, Getty

revels in dance and song and freely gives allotted hour she fell dead, and the other
wise advice, or she is a temptress who lures mermaids were forbidden to ever leave the
men into the water to drown them. water again.
One tale says that the mermaids of the Legend also speaks of a king living in the
lake were permitted to walk on land and lake who rewards guests with straw that
,
mix with the local humans – so long as magically transforms into gold on land.

121
 Into
The waters of Europe have been feared and worshipped for
millennia, and still contain many mysteries

WORDS BEN GAZUR

122
 INTO THE SEA

he sea is a fickle thing. It has pieces of folklore meant to assuage its inhabited by humans have been consigned
offered humanity a swift way wrath. Often, however, these often failed to the deep. Doggerland, a large area
to travel to distant lands for and many lost their lives at sea. Seeking between England and northern Europe, was
thousands of years and provided an explanation for the loss of colleagues once home to many people until 10,000
a bounty of food for those and loved ones, survivors claimed they years ago it began to sink under the sea.
who fish the waters. Yet it can also be a were pulled under by krakens, drowned Tales of Atlantis, the city of Ys, and many
terrifying power that sinks ships, breeds by mermaids, or cursed by encounters other lost lands swallowed by the waves can
ferocious storms, and inundates the land with ghost ships. All of these supernatural be found across the continent.
to wash away people’s homes. The murky beings have been reported in the seas of Those who lived safely on land could not
depths of the ocean are a breeding ground Europe across the millennia. even feel fully safe from the dangers of the
for myths and legends. For a long time people had no idea what sea even when it was not threatening to
Given the terrors of the ocean it is lay on the ocean bed, much of which still submerge their homes. Tales of creatures
understandable that sailors are a uniquely remains unmapped today, and this left emerging from the sea were found in many
superstitious group. To placate the sea them open to speculate about what was places. Kelpies and other beasts would
there were any number of rituals and being concealed by the waves. One of come onto the land and drag the unwary
the most common myths was that the away to their deaths in the water. Mermaids
sea had swallowed up towns, cities, and and sirens would tempt people into danger
whole kingdoms in the past to punish the with their beauty and songs.
transgressions of humans. The implicit Whether the waters of the sea are the
threat was that this might happen again. dark grey of the far north or the glittering
Indeed as the sea levels of Europe have blue of the south, European seas are filled
fluctuated over the ages many places once with mysteries.

Image source: Alamy

Above: The dangers of the

sea have often been linked to
spirits, monsters, and gods

123
WONDERFUL WATERS

THE AEGEAN
Location: Between Greece and Turkey Time zone: UTC+2/3 Currency: Euro (€)

The Aegean Sea occupies the area between searching and great effort Alexander the
Greece and Turkey and was well known to Great was able to obtain a small jar filled with
the ancient Greeks. They even gave a name the water of immortality. Any who drank it
to the god of storms who was thought to would live forever. His sister Thessalonike did
menace their ships in the area – Aegaeon – not know this and either spilled it or wasted it,
but it was not he who gave the sea its name. dooming Alexander to die. When he died she
According to legend, King Minos of Crete was so grief stricken that she drowned herself
demanded that the Athenians send him in the sea but instead of dying became a
seven girls and seven boys each year as mermaid. Now it is said she confronts sailors
tribute. These young people were sent into and asks them “Is King Alexander alive?” If
the labyrinth beneath Minos’ palace where they answer anything but “He lives and reigns
they were eaten by the monstrous Minotaur. and conquers the world!” she attacks their
This continued until Theseus, son of king boat and kills all aboard.

THE
Aegeus of Athens, volunteered to be one of
the tributes sent to Crete to kill the Minotaur.

HELLESPONT
Below: Visitors to the
He promised his father that if he was
Aegean may not know
successful he would hoist a white sail on his that the glorious blue
ship. Theseus did indeed slay the Minotaur waters conceal tales of
dark folklore
Location: Çanakkale, Turkey and end the yearly tribute but forgot his
Time zone: UTC+3 promise and his returning ship still had its
Currency: Turkish lira black sails. Aegeus saw the ship’s sails and,
thinking his son was dead, threw himself into
In the ancient world the Hellespont, the sea and drowned. It is from Aegeus that
the narrow channel between Turkey the sea took its name.
and Greece, was the symbolic border The gorgones are mermaids who dwell in
between Europe and Asia. When the the waters of the Aegean and one of them
Persian king Xerxes invaded Greece is linked to Alexander the Great. After much
he constructed a bridge across the
waters, though when it was washed
away he whipped the sea. When
Alexander the Great crossed the other
way he threw a spear onto the Asian
shore and claimed the whole of it as
already won by the spear.
SEAS OF BRITTANY
The name of the Hellespont
Location: Brittany, France Time zone: UTC+1/2 Currency: Euro (€)
derives from a girl named Helle. Helle
The people who live beside the English she lives under the sea and lures sailors
was going to be sacrificed by her
Channel in Brittany have long told tales into her kingdom. There she transforms
stepmother but a golden ram sent
about the strange creatures who dwell them into fish and feeds them to her
by the gods whisked her away. While
off their shores. Many sailors were lost in guests. The mari-morgans are mermaids
fleeing Helle fell from the ram’s back
storms and their bodies were often not who live in the ocean and kidnap men
and drowned in the waters named
recovered. Locals said that their souls unwary enough to approach them.
after her.
became spirits known as Iannic-ann-ôd The most famous sea legend from
Other mythic figures met their
who eternally wandered the beaches Brittany is that of the lost city of Ys.
ends in the waters of the Hellespont.
crying out at night. If any human calls There are many versions, but all say
Hero and Leander were two lovers
out to them they race towards the caller that Ys was one of the wonders of the
who lived on opposite sides of the
and snas their neck. world, made rich by its trade. Dahut,
strait but each night Leander swam
The groac’h is a water fairy linked to the daughter of the king, was the most
across towards a lamp held by Hero
several of the islands in the region and wicked woman in the kingdom and one
to spend their nights together. Their
night she and her lover stole the keys
affair lasted all summer but when
to the dikes which kept the ocean out
the season turned the rough weather
and opened the gates – immediately
extinguished Hero’s lamp and Leander
submerging the whole of Ys. For her sins,
became lost. He drowned, and when
Dahut was turned into a mari-morgan.
his body washed up on the shore Hero
It is said that the bells of Ys can still be
drowned herself too.
heard ringing under the waves.

124
THE AZORES
Location: Atlantic Ocean, Portugal
Time zone: UTC-1
Currency: Euro (€)

The Azores are a spectacular cluster of ZENNOR

volcanic islands around 1400km west of Location: Cornwall, UK
Portugal in the Atlantic Ocean. They have Time zone: UTC
been settled by different groups over several Currency: Pound sterling (£)
centuries and a complex system of folklore The town of Zennor was supposedly founded
has formed there. by a French saint, Senara, when she was
Given their position some have suggested falsely accused of adultery and thrown into
the islands are the remains of the mythical the sea in a barrel. The waves floated her to
island of Atlantis. Other tales say that the this spot on the coast.
Azores were once part of a rich and powerful The most famous sea legend of the area is
island kingdom ruled by a proud king. To get the appearance of the Azores making their that of the Mermaid of Zennor. A local man
an heir he made a deal with a supernatural landscapes seem ever-changing. became intrigued by a beautiful woman he
being on the condition that he not set eyes Given the dangers of the waters around saw every Sunday at church but whom no
on his child for 30 years. After 28 years the Azores the people sought a protector. It one knew. After the service he followed her to
he attempted to glimpse his promised is said that every 23 June St John appears discover who she was – and no one ever saw
heir – and an earthquake struck which to bless the seas and cast out evil spirits. either of them again.
destroyed his land. Geysers, tremors, and For generations inhabitants would refuse to Years later a group of local fishermen were
eruptions caused by volcanoes often alter enter the waves before this date. met at sea by a mermaid who asked them to
raise their anchor as it was blocking entrance

THE ISLES OF SCILLY

to her home. The fishermen realised the
missing man must now be living under the
sea with the mermaid. In the local church a
pew is carved with an image of the mermaid
Location: Scilly Isles, UK Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£) to commemorate the events.

The Isles of Scilly are today separated of Lyonesse. It was while Tristan was at
from the British mainland by 45km of the court of king Mark of Cornwall that
sea – but legend has it that they were his father died but tragedy struck before
once connected by a rich and beautiful he could return to Lyonesse to claim his
Arthurian kingdom. When there is an crown. A storm swept in and in a single
unusually low tide you can spot rocks and night the whole kingdom was submerged
the ruins of walls stretching away from the forever beneath the sea. Only one of the
shore for miles. locals survived the calamity as he was out
This lost land was named Lyonesse hunting and saw the incoming wave that
and features in a number of myths and swamped the land and managed to race
legends. The hero Tristan, whose love for
the princess Isolde (Iseult) inspired poets
ahead of it on his white horse. The white
horse was later taken as a symbol by GULF OF
and storytellers, was the son of a king several Cornish families.
CORRYVRECKAN
Location: Between Jura and Scarba, Scotland
Time zone: UTC
Currency: Pound sterling (£)
The swift tides and peculiar conditions in this
gulf unite to form the third largest whirlpool
in the world, known as the Corryvreckan. The
roar of the swirling water can be heard miles
away and it creates waves over 9m high.
The whirlpool is known as Coire Bhreacain
in Gaelic, meaning Cauldron of the Plaid.
According to legend it is the spot where the
goddess of winter washes her plaid cloak
when the seasons turn colder. Once the
cloak has been churned in the Corryvreckan
it emerges pure and white, and it is this she
spreads over the land as a layer of snow.
Others say it is named for a Norse prince
named Breacon who drowned attempting to
swim the gulf.

125
WONDERFUL WATERS

VENICE
Location: Veneto, Italy Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

enice is a city built on a number of low the soul of the first person to cross it as his fee. The devil
islands in a lagoon – it is also a city built on built the Rialto as he promised.
myths and legends. It is said that the first The waters of Venice are its most notable feature and in
inhabitants of Venice were refugees who fled the darkness of the canals it is said a monster lives near
from mainland Italy to the islands for safety to the Punta della Dogana. It only emerges on moonless
at the end of the Roman period when barbarians invaded nights and is rarely spotted but is said to be able to drag
the empire. the unwary to their deaths.
Building a city on muddy islands was not easy and Other supernatural beings are said to live in the lagoon.
legend says the locals received diabolical aid. The Rialto A fisherman named Orio encountered a mermaid called
Bridge is a landmark of Venice and was the first bridge to Melusina and fell in love. The pair soon married and lived
cross the Grand Canal. Attempts to build it were struck together happily until Melusina sickened and died, asking
several times by calamity, driving the architect to that Orio bury her at sea. The house they shared together
fear it was impossible, until a mysterious stranger has a brick heart set in its wall and those who touch it are
offered to do it in a single night. He only wanted said to be granted eternal love.

Below: The streets of Venice

are made of water – and the
canals are said to hide many
mystical secrets

126
 INTO THE SEA

THE STRAITS OF GIBRALTAR

Location: Gibraltar Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Gibraltar pound (£)

The Straits of Gibraltar

separate Europe and Africa

PAVLOPETRI
by just 14km of water.
Around 5 million years ago
the Atlantic Ocean broke
through the land which Location: Vatika Bay, Pelopennese, Greece
once joined the continents
Time zone: UTC+2
Currency: Euro (€)
and the inundation created
the Mediterranean Sea. For Many places are claimed to be the basis
the civilisations which lived for Plato’s legend of Atlantis but few are as
around the Mediterranean intriguing as the ruins of Pavlopetri. Beneath
the straits marked the edge the waves of a shallow bay lies the remains of
of the known world. a city dating back to around 1000 BCE, which
The Romans knew the were submerged by a series of devastating
strait as the Pillars of earthquakes – the same fate Atlantis is
Hercules. According to said to have suffered. Because Pavlopetri
legend the hero Hercules never rose above the sea again it was never
reached an impossibly tall built over by later generations and is frozen
mountain that separated the Atlantic and coast forms the other pillar was disputed in time. According to some researchers
Mediterranean while attempting to carry throughout antiquity. Pavlopetri may have inspired Plato to create
out one of his epic Twelve Labours. Instead What lay beyond the Straits of Gibraltar the myth of Atlantis based on folk memories
of climbing over the mountain he simply was little known in the ancient world and of a prosperous land being sucked beneath
smashed through it and created the strait. so it was there that Plato said the island of the ocean.
The remains of the mountain formed the Atlantis lay, before it was swallowed by the Locals had told stories of something
Pillars of Hercules, one of them being the sea. Some still look for the fictional island in extraordinary being under the bay but
Rock of Gibraltar. Which peak on the African the area today. Pavlopetri was only rediscovered in 1967.

CAPE FINISTERRE
Below: The tip of Cape
Finisterre has been a
site of pilgrimage for
thousands of years for
those seeking the tip of
Europe.
Location: Finisterra, Galicia, Spain Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

The Romans named this peninsula

protruding into the Atlantic Ocean
Finis Terrae – ‘the end of the Earth’.
Beyond this point seemed to be
nothing but endless sea. There is
evidence that in the most ancient
times worshippers gathered there
to offer up prayers to the sun as it
set over the seas. Finisterre was
considered to be the Coast of Death,
where the lands of the living and the
dead came closest.
Pilgrims walking to Santiago de
Compostela to pray at the shrine of
St James would often continue their
pilgrimage to Finisterre. Once they had
reached the ocean the pilgrims would
strip off their clothes, burn them, and
then wash themselves in the sea as a
sign of their new life.

127
WONDERFUL WATERS

THE BLUE
GROTTO
Location: Capri, Bay of Naples, Italy
Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

To enter the Blue Grotto on the island of

Capri, visitors must wait until the tide is
out and the sea is calm as the entrance
is so small. Once inside, an ethereal blue
glow suffuses the whole cave from sunlight
reflected underwater.
The Roman Emperor Tiberius was known
to swim in the Blue Grotto, and dedicated
it as a temple to sea-nymphs. For centuries
the grotto was avoided by locals because it
was thought to be haunted by witches and
other evil spirits. Legend has it that priests
entered the cave to drive out the demons
– but were instead driven to madness
by what they encountered inside. They
described it as a ‘gate to hell’, but tourists
still flock to the Blue Grotto.

Below: The eerie light

of the Blue Grotto has
inspired worship and fear
for millennia

BLÅ “In the 16th centur y people thought that witches

JUNGFRUN g a t h e re d o n t h e S w e d i s h i s l a n d o f B l å J u n g f r u n e a c h
M a u n d y T h u r s d a y t o m e e t w i t h t h e d e v i l”
Location: Kalmar Strait, Sweden
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Swedish krona

Blå Jungfrun, meaning Blue Maiden in

Swedish, is not the real name of this island
in the Baltic sea. Sailors who came too close
were afraid of using its true name, Blåkulla,
because those who did disturbed the spirits
of the island and were struck by storms. In
the 16th century people thought that witches
gathered on Blå Jungfrun each Maundy
Thursday to meet with the devil. The island’s
magical reputation drew those looking to
perform various rituals.
The most mysterious feature of Blå
Jungfrun is a large labyrinth set out in stones
on a bare stone plateau. It is unclear how old
this ancient maze is, or what its function was,
but anyone who disturbs the stones is said to
be cursed for the rest of their life.

128
 STRAIT OF
MESSINA
Location: Sicily and Calabria, Italy
Time zone: UTC+1
Currency: Euro (€)

THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY The Strait of Messina separating

the island of Sicily from the Italian
mainland narrows to only 3km in
Location: County Antrim, Northern Ireland, UK width. The uniquely powerful currents
of these waters create dangerous
Time zone: UTC Currency: Pound sterling (£)
sailing conditions and a powerful
The Giant’s Causeway is a mass of basalt challenged to a battle of strength by a giant whirlpool at its northern end. It has
columns running out into ocean. It was who lived across the sea in Scotland and so also given birth to many legends.
formed around 60 million years ago by a to reach his foe he constructed the Giant’s According to Greek and Roman
huge outflow of lava which solidified into the Causeway. In some versions Fionn won this mythology the Strait of Messina was
hexagonal pillars of black stone, which fit fight, but in others his enemy was tricked home to two terrifying monsters
together so closely they appear to have been into believing Fionn was too mighty to face named Scylla and Charybdis. Scylla
designed. According to legend the causeway and so destroyed the causeway. This explains was a monstrous figure with ravenous
was indeed designed and built. why the Giant’s Causeway disappears under dogs growing from her waist while
The giant of the Giant’s Causeway was the sea – but similar rocks can be found near Charybdis was a sea creature able
the Irish hero Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn Fingal’s Cave on Staffa in the Inner Hebrides, to suck down vast quantities of
MacCool) who lived in the area. He was showing where it once stretched to Scotland. water, and any ships in it. Sailors had
to decide which threat to venture

ES VEDRA
closer to if they wished to pass the
strait. Some say Scylla was based
Below: Mermaids, sirens, on a perilous outcrop of rocks on
and goddesses have all
been thought to inhabit the Italian shore while Charybdis
Location: Ibiza, Balearic Islands, Spain the island of Es Vedra represented the whirlpools.

Time zone: UTC+1 Currency: Euro (€)

The towering and jagged rocks of the

island of Es Vedra have long drawn
curious visitors. For centuries sailors
who ventured close to the island told
tales of huge, dark shapes moving in
the water beneath them and mermaids
frolicking among the waves. Some said
Image source: Adobe Stock, Alamy, Getty, Wikimedia Commons

that the island was the home of the

sirens who had tried to lure Odysseus
and his crew to their destruction with
their alluring song. The Phoenicians
who colonised Ibiza thought that Es
Vedra was the birthplace of the moon
goddess Tanit, who rules the tides with
her motion.
Today supernatural researchers claim
that the island is full of mystical energy
and is unusually magnetic. The island is
now protected as a nature reserve.

129
 THE TRAVELLER’S GUIDE TO

M ystical
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The Traveller’s Guide to Mystical Europe First Edition (AHB6505)
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 GO IN SEARCH OF EXPLORE THE HIDDEN
LEGENDARY ARTEFACTS MAGIC OF CITIES
Set out on your own quest for the Discover how even the most modern
mystical Holy Grail European metropolis can be magical

SEEK OUT SACRED SITES DIVE INTO MYTHS FROM

FROM THE DEEP PAST EUROPE’S SHORES
Visit stone circles, ancient temples, Marvel at ancient legends of lost
9001

secret shrines and places of power lands, sea monsters and mermaids

THE TRAVELLER’S GUIDE TO

M ystical

JOURNEY TO THE CONTINENT’S MOST MYTHICAL SITES

9000