Unit-2

Advance Hand Care

Session Topic Outcome

1 Manicure You will be able to understand

 Definition of Manicure.
 Types of manicure techniques
2 Nail Extension Students will be able to understand
 Meaning of nail extension.
 Types of nail extension.
 Identify tools and material required
for gel nail enhancement.
 Procedure of applying gel nail enhancement
and nail tip.
 Removal technique of gel nail enhancement.

3 Nail Art You will be able to understand

 Meaning of Nail art.
 Identify the tools and material required for
nail art.
 Types of Nail art application techniques.

Session Topic Assessment method Remarks

1 Manicure Exercise: Question and answer. Visit to Nail spa/salon.

2 Nail Extension Exercise: Question and answer. Visit to Nail spa/salon.

Practical: Display tools and
material required for gel nail
extension.

Demonstration and practice. Visit to Nail spa/salon.

3 Nail Art Exercise: Question and answer. Visit to Nail spa/salon.

Practical: Display tools and material

required for different Nail Art
techniques.
Demonstration and practice.

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Session-1 : Manicure
Manicure is derived from the latin words manus, meaning hand and cura, meaning care. A
manicure is a cosmetic beauty treatment for the fingernails and hands performed at home
or in a nail salon. A manicure treatment is not only a treatment for the natural nails, but also
for the hands. A manicure consists of filing, shaping of the free edge, treatments, massage
of the hand and the application of polish. There are also manicure services that are specialties
for the hands and feet. It keeps the nails smooth, the skin soft, improves the appearance of
the hands and keeps the cuticles attractive and most importantly the nails healthy.
Types of Manicure Techniques
Regular Manicure: It involves soaking your hands in warm water and pushing back cuticles
followed by trimming and filing of nails. A lotion massage is done and nail paint is applied.
French Manicure: It is a rage nowadays and is quite popular amongst all ages. It involves
all the steps of a regular manicure which are soaking, trimming and filing of nails, massaging,
moisturizing followed by nail paint. French manicure is differentiated by regular manicure due
to a different way of application of nail paint. A clear or sheer pink nail polish is applied on the
nail base followed by white nail paint on the tips of nails.
Spa Manicure: A regular manicure is followed by a hydrating mask or an aromatic salt rub
for your hands which is very relaxing.
Paraffin Manicure: It involves use of paraffin wax in a regular manicure process. This
manicure works great for dehydrated hands or overworked hands. Warm paraffin wax is
massaged into your nails or your hands are dipped into warm wax. It makes your hands soft
and is extremely relaxing.
Hot stone Manicure: Special stones which insulate heat are used to massage your hands
followed by steps of a regular manicure.
Luxury Manicure: A regular manicure with some extra pampering of warm wax massage
with mittens to keep hands soft and hydrated.
Brazilian Manicure: This is a natural nail treatment method that includes no use of chemicals,
creams or water. Specially lined gloves are used to soften and moisturize your hand. This
treatment helps to grow and strengthen your nails
European Manicure: European manicures are highly soothing and can provide fantastic
results.During a European manicure, the hands are soaked in a relaxing blende of water and
herbs.The nails are then professionally shaped. Several coats of polish are then applied to
the nails with the color of your choice. In some spas, a calming hand massage is provided.
Hot Oil Manicure: A hot oil manicure, also referred to as a hot manicure, is a relaxing
manicure type performed commonly in a spa setting.The manicurist heats up oil and then
uses it to massage the hands, nails, and cuticles. The oil is then washed off with a damp
towel and a complete manicure is performed.
Electric Manicure: Rechargeable Manicure Nail Care Station for maintenance of the natural
nails comes with 8 professional quality tools. Trimming Disk, Tapered Cone, Foot Cone,
Emery Barrel, Felt Buffing Cone and Circular Brush.

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 Figure: Electric Manicure Machine

Session-2 : Nail Extension

What are gel nail enhancements?
Gel nails have clear advantages over acrylic nails. They are odorless, light weight, clear, flexible,
and best of all, natural looking. So, if you want an immediate solution to beautiful nails, gel nails
enhancement is definitely it! Gel nails can be used in full nail or tip overlays. They can also be
shaped to form nail extensions. Likewise, gel nails can be used to protect the damaged edges
of the nails as they grow out.Gel nails are an extremely natural looking enhancement. They are
thin, clear, flexible, non-yellowing, non-porous and resist lifting. Gel nails can be used for natural
nail overlays, tip overlays, sculpted onto forms for short extensions, and to help encapsulate a
damaged free edge as it grows out. Silk or fibreglass can be added to gels when needed for
repairs or extra strength.
Modern technology available in nail extensions are as under:
1 Gel nail extensions
2 Acrylic nail extensions
3 Sculptured nail
4 Nail wraps
5 Nail forming

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Material Required for Nail Extensions

Additional Tools you will need

Abrasive These have a rough surface used to shape or smooth the nail and remove the
shine. It usually looks like a large emery board comes in a variety of grits.
Buffer Used to buff the nails to leave a lasting shine.
Buffer block Lightweight rectangular block, abrasive and used to buff or file nails.
Dappen dishes Containers used for holding acrylic powder and liquid while performing a
service. These should be filled immediately before a service and empties
immediately after a service.
Glass bowl To hold acetone or tips and glue remover. Do not use plastic as the solution
will deteriorate in it.
Nail sculpting Can be disposable or reusable. Disposable forms have an adhesive backing
forms that holds the form in place. Reusable forms are made of Aluminium, Teflon
or Plastic and have no adhesive backing.
Sable Brush Used to apply and shaped the soft balls of acrylic on the nail.
Small scissors To trim fabric used in nail wraps.
or nippers
Tip cutters or To cut the ends of artificial nail tips to the required length.
clippers

Procedure
Step-1: Prepare the service area
Prepare the service area in the same way that you prepare for a basic Manicure and Pedicure
Service. In addition to the standard Manicure and Pedicure set up you will need to add the
following for a gel nail enhancement:
Step-2: Prepare the client for service
Identifying client characteristics for gel nail enhancements
The client’s personal preference will ultimately determine the type of gel nail enhancement chosen,
but there are certain client characteristics that you need to take into consideration when
recommending a service to best suit them.They include: the client’s lifestyle, nail shape, the
length of the nail extension and nail health.
Lifestyle
If a client is very hard on their hands because of their occupation, they will need nails that will
give them maximum strength. The time between maintenance fills will depend on lifestyle. For
example, a client who regularly has their hands in water frequently will possibly need infills more
regularly than someone who does not.
Nail shape
Choosing shape is a compromise between many factors. Client preference is just one of them.

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Clients may unknowingly ask for shapes that may be incompatible with their lifestyles or not
flattering to their hands. You can advise clients on other factors that will affect the final decision
on shape, such as lifestyle, habits, hobbies, nail health, length, nail and finger width.
Generally, the most flattering shape for fingernails will be a free edge that somewhat mirrors the
client’s lunula (moon), which tends to be somewhat oval for most (some rounder, some squarer).
Squarer shapes are stronger while pointy, tapered nails break more easily if not filed in correctly
by the technician. Long nails need to have straight sidewalls and be rounded only at the free edge
if they are to be durable. You and the client can generally come to an agreement on a shape that
works out well if you educate the client about what shapes will flatter their hands the most and
be a practical length to suit their lifestyle.
Length of nail extension
Some clients choose nails that may be an inappropriate length. It is important to advise clients
that normal growth of their nails may result in the artificial nail eventually moving 25-50% further
out than its initial placement. Extremely long nails are prone to breakage, lifting and wear problems
and nail technicians cannot guarantee their work when clients do not follow professional
recommendations. Clients should be informed about the potential for these adverse consequences
and this should be noted in their record card. The recommended length of an extension is half
the nail bed length but no greater than the full nail bed length again.
Nail health
Clients may consult a nail technician to solve nail problems, such as strengthening weak nails
or helping to grow them longer. It is therefore important to know how various factors affect nails
for example, diet, pregnancy and prescription medication. Being knowledgeable about nail health
allows a nail technician to tailor a nail service to the individual and to recommend a home care
regime.
Nail care commitment
It is important to ensure that the client understands and commits to regular maintenance for
acrylic nail enhancements to ensure that their nail enhancements stay strong and in good
condition. Every two or three weeks, re-growth will need to be filled and the nails re-balanced to
keep them in top condition. Clients need to consider the financial and time commitment required
to maintain their nail enhancements before going ahead.

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Choosing Gel Nail Enhancement Service
You need to explain all the options available and make sure your client understands the difference
between types of gel nail enhancement services. Clients also need to consider the financial and
maintenance commitment before going ahead with a gel nail enhancement service. Providing
homecare advice will be covered in more detail in Section D. Every two or three weeks, re-growth
will need to be filled and the nails re-balanced to keep them in top condition.
Nail gel enhancements are strong, durable artificial nails that are brushed on the nail plate like
polish. There are two types of gel nails:
 Light-cured gels, which harden when they are exposed to a special light source, either
ultraviolet or halogen light.
 No-light gels, which harden when a gel activator is sprayed or brushed on or when they are
soaked in water.
 You must also explain the options available and make sure your client understands the
difference between the nail enhancement services and procedures. You need to ensure that
clients understand the basic differences between the nail enhancement services that you
offer.
Identify the Benefits of Gel Nail Services
 You need to find out what a client expects from an gel nail enhancement so that you can
help them select the right type for the right reason as well as provide accurate advice and
recommendations forthe service and aftercare. There could be a number of reasons a client
would want nail enhancements:
 to enhance the appearance of their nails
 because it is currently fashionable
 for a single special occasion.
 Gel nails are an extremely natural looking enhancement.They are thin, clear, flexible, non-
yellowing, non-porous and resist lifting. Apart from clear, gel is also available in natural pink
and white for the French look. Gels are also available in colours. Gel nails can be used for
natural nail overlays, tip overlays, sculpted onto forms for short extensions, and to help
encapsulate a damaged free edge as it grows out. Silk or fibreglass can be added to gels
when needed for repairs or extra strength.
 Gel nails have a chemical consistency very similar to the consistency of acrylic nails and
are applied with a brush, but they require a separate catalyst (an additional step) to harden
them. There are two types of gel. Light cured gel hardens when exposed to a special light
source - either an Ultra Violet A light or halogen light. No-light gels harden when a gel
activator is sprayed or brushed on, or when they are soaked in water.
 Instant length can be achieved at the first visit by using tips or forms in the gel nail full set.
The ultimate long term goal with gels is for the client to end up growing out and wearing their
own long, strong, healthy nails under the gel.The client should no longer consider wearing

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 artificial nails and the gel should essentially become a very strong, bonded base coat to
protect their own nails from cracking, splitting, peeling and chipping. The client is now
wearing a nail enhancement, not take’ nails, and the enhancement need never be removed,
only maintained on a regular basis.
Benefits of gel nails include
 Traditional acrylics harden in about 10 minutes, but they may take up to 48 hours to fully
cure. In comparison Ultra Violet A gel nails harden in about fifteen to thirty seconds and cure
in about two minutes.
 Gels are odourless and therefore produce no fumes like the acrylic process which some
clients have a reaction to.
 There are gels that are hypoallergenic which means people are very unlikely to have allergic
reactions to the product.
 Less filing is required to complete the job.
 Gel gives a natural feel and look with a clear finish and they do not yellow with age.
 Gel gives a thin coating and lacks the bulkiness of nail varnish.
 Gel is flexible and lightweight.
 Gel do not lift
Gel nail enhancements are an easier technique for a nail technician to master than acrylic nail
enhancements. Therefore the time it requires to perform this service is less than for acrylic nails.
Gelmanufacturer’s instructions must be read and followed
Deal with diseases, disorders and complications
Diseases and disorders
You must know these thoroughly so that you can provide the best service to your client. You will
also protect yourself and your client from contagious diseases.
Never apply gel nail enhancements to disguise nail diseases or disorders.
Coloured gels can hide problems. Lifting or infection of the nail plate can occur and this will not
be visible. You can regularly remove the overlay but this in itself will cause other problems.
Gel nails complications
Sometimes things go wrong. Or you may have a new client who comes to you to fix a problem
she has with her nails. The following table shows a list of problems and probable causes.

Problem Possible cause

Nails break, lift and Are the nails too long? During application has the gel been
wear too easily in contact with the skin and this was not corrected? Has
the gel been applied over the cuticle? Is the overlay the

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 correct thickness? Has the gel been applied over a glossy
surface? Has alcohol or cleanser been used and you have
not taken the gloss off the nail afterwards? Has all dust been
removed from nail after filing or cuticle work? Has the client
been using cuticle oil every night?
As the nail enhancement cures it also shrinks slightly. This
builds up stresses in the enhancement which are greatest
at the apex. If the stress is too strong the enhancement
separates from the natural nail. It usually happe’ls around
the centre of the nail. Has the stress area been built strongly?

Green nails - “the greenies’ A bacterial infection that thrives in a moist space between
(pseudomonas) the natural nail and the enhancement. The green colour is a
by product of the bacrerial infection. lnsufficient cleaning of
the nail plate or.unhygienic practices will cause this. Make
sure you clean the nail plate thoroughly before applying the
gel. The client may have attempted to re-stick a nail that is
coming loose. Encourage clients to come to you if there
are any problems between appointments.
Bubbles or voids in gel nail Not enough UV light or sometimes too much. Also caused
by excessive shrinkage. Bubbles can grow over time if the
stresses build up in the nail.
Client feels pain and heat You have the wrong UVA light for the product or you have
when gel nails cure. This applied it for too long. Check manufacturer’s instructions
will also damage nail plate for non UV gels which are activated by a spray has this
been held too closely too the nails?
Client (or you) has an The gel, glues or other product has touched the skin during
allergic skin reaction service. Check that you are being careful with the removal
of the sticky surface, and that your application of any gel,
glue or primer does not touch the skin. You can use
petroleum jelly to protect the skin.
Final gel nail shrinks All gels will shrink a bit, good quality gels shrink less, and
their applications will shrink less.
Damage to nail bed or Artificial nails may have been clipped or pried off rather than
nail plate removed correctly. Natural nail may have been filed too much
when being prepared for gel enhancement service.
lnfection under nail Tip does not fit perfectly so that dirt and water has gotten
enhancement underneath it.
Gels are acrylics! The chemicals in nail products control the look of the finished nail, the speed
with which they dry, the shelf life of the product, the viscosity and every other aspect of the
product.
In Gel nail systems the bonding process is assisted by the UV light. Or in the case of the non-
light gels the bonding is assisted by the activator.

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Gel products are made up of acrylics. Acrylics are man- made plastics and are used extensively
in many industries. There are three main families of acrylics used in artificial nail systems.
Methacr-ylates are used in the liquid/powder systems, cyanoacrylates are used in wraps, adhesives
and no-light gels and acrylates are used in UV gels. Some newer UV gels also use methacrylates.
Manufacturers try to make products as safe as possible but they can only do so much.
 how the product reacts with other chemicals
 signs and symptoms of over-exposure and illnesses that may be caused by the product and
relevant emergency and first aid procedures
 how product ingredients may enter the body and control and protection measures against
this
 safe limits in the air to prevent over exposure by inhalation
 carcinogen hazard of the chemical, i.e. whether any ingredient over one tenth of a percent
is suspected of causing cancer
 precautions and handling procedures
 storage and disposal information.
Nail tips

Contact area or well This is the part that is in contact with the natural nail. You can
easily identify it because it is thinner than the rest of the tip.

Stop point This is the line where the contact area stops and the actual tip
starts. It is your job to make sure that the natural free edge fits
prefectly into this so that dirt cannot get under it. If you blend the
tip properly the stop point produces a natural looking smile line.

Side walls The side walls can be parallel or tapered. Good quality tips have a
reinforced side to provide extra strength to this area.

Upper arch Tips, like natural nails, can have differently curved upper arches.
You can use this feature to correct the client’s natural shape. For
example if the client has a flat nail you could correct this by
choosing a tip with a curved upper arch. Remember, however,
you must make sure the contact area fits the natural nail snugly.

Lower arch Attach a tip to the natural nail then look at it side on. The lower
arch should look natural and as if it has grown from the finger.

C Curve or Tips will come in different C curve shapes. Choose a C curve

curvature that matches the C curve of the client’s nails.

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 Image 3
The nail tip

All tips have a number of features that you should be familiar with:
Attaching Nail Tips
The nail table should be set up to include tools for pre-service nail preparation, abrasives, nail
adhesive and a selection of nail tips. After completing the pre-service routine, including the
sanitizing procedure the application of nail tips can begin.
1. Remove any nail polish with polish remover.
2. Prepare cuticle - use cuticle remover to eliminate stubborn cuticle from the nail plate. Apply
evenly around the base of all ten nails.
3. Gently slide a cuticle pusher or a cotton-tipped orange wood stick along the nail plate to
loosen the cuticle, using extreme care not to cause damage to the eponychium.
4. Remove dead cuticle from the nail plate using circular motions with cotton tipped orangewood
stick up to but not beyond the eponychium.
5. Wash and dry nails thoroughly.
6. Gently remove the shine from the natural nail by using a fine abrasive such as 240 grit. Do
not use a coarse abrasive and be careful not to use too much pressure. Make sure the
natural nails are filed short. For tipping, lightly round off the corners of the nail to match the
fit of the tip contact area. For sculpting on a form, leave corners square for a better form
fit at sidewalls.
7. Match the ”C” curve of the nail to the tip
8. Apply nail dehydrate or to remove more of the remaining natural oil and dehydrate the nail
for better adhesion.
9. Fit the tip from sidewall to sidewall, it is better to oversize rather that to undersize. Pre-tailor
the tip to fit and reduce to contact area for fast and efficient application and blending
10. Choose the correct viscosity adhesive - Apply gel or thicker adhesive as a gap filler for a
flatter nail or a thinner viscosity adhesive for an dramatically arched nail.
11. Apply a drop of adhesive to the inside (well) of the nail tip. Spread evenly with the nozzle
andtake into account that the adhesive will spread when affixing the nail tip.
12. Place the nail tip at a 45° angle, catching the free edge in the groove of the tip, and slowly
angle it down until it is affixed. Make sure it is centred and no air bubbles are present. If there
are air bubbles the tip will have to be removed and re-applied. Hold tip in place briefly.

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 360°
Angle to hold tip

90° 45° e.g. nail

180°

Angle

Angles: are measured in degrees. This is shown by the sign ° as in 45° above.
360" is a full circle, 180° is a half circle, 90° is a quarter and 45° is an eighth of a circle.
45° shows you how to angle the tip when placing it against the natural nail.
Look at the 360° sign (say the nail free edge), now look at the 45° sign (the angle you hold
the file in relation to the free edge).
13. Determine desired length and clip the nail tip with tip cutters, remember to leave extra for
filing into shape. If using scissors or nail clippers do not clip straight across the nail tip as
this will cause cracks and compromise the strength. Clip the corners of the nail tip and then
file to desired shape. Remember the extension edge should be no more than half the length
of the nail bed again.
14. Shape to complement the individual client’s fingers and hands. Use the shape of the lunula
as a guide.
15. Blend the tip until thin and translucent.
16. The tip is the design canvas and not the strength - the overlay is the strength and so de-
bulk the entire tip evenly using a semi-coarse abrasive. Make sure the file is flat on surface
of the tip at all times. Never hold the file at an angle as this can cause a groove in the nail
plate. Never let this coarse abrasive come into contact with the natural nail.
17. Refine the tip using a 240 grit buffer for a perfect blend. Gently buff down the area between
the natural nail plate and the tip extension.The tip should blend with the natural nail so that
there is no visible line between the two or seam line.
18. The tip application is now complete. Although the client’s tips blend perfectly with their natural
nail, tips are seldom worn without an additional service such as acrylic, gel or wraps. If the
client is only wearing tips as a temporary service, add a drop of cuticle oil to each nail and
buff.
19. Complete the After service routine as outlined in Step 4, this section.
Procedures of gel application over the nail tip and its curing
 light-cured gel and a curing light which should have an inbuilt timer so that you can ensure
that nails are cured for the right amount of time
 no-light gel and gel activator

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 synthetic brush
 nail tips or nail forms
 primer
 block buffer
 adhesive
 gel cleanser
 files in a range of grades.
Full set of light cured gel nail overlays
These procedures are for over tips or natural nails.
1. Complete pre-service sanitation procedure and pre-service routine.
2. Remove polish.
3. Push back cuticle with cotton tipped orangewood stick/disinfected cuticle pusher. Do not
apply any cuticle creams or oils before applying gel.
4. File the nail with a fine abrasive to remove the shine and natural oil. Thoroughly brush off
the dust.
5. Apply nail antiseptic to nails with a new cotton-tipped orange wood stick or spray.
6. Apply tips if the client requests them by using the procedure described in Step 3 of this
section.
7. Gel does not stick to ‘shiny’ surfaces, so ensure that you have removed all shiny oil surfaces
from the natural nail. This does not mean etching or roughing up the nail, only gentle removal
of oil and contaminants that interfere with adhesion. A fine grit file or buffer is all that is
needed.
8. Apply a very thin coat of primer gel ’or’ basecoat’ that comes with your kit across the entire
nail surface, including the tip and let it dry. If using another primer (not base coat primer gel),
only put primer on the natural nail, not on the tip. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions as
to whether or not to coat the tip.
9. Apply the first coat of gel thinly over the natural nail and/or the entire tip, being sure to get
to edges without getting into cuticles or touching skin. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
on the method required to cure their gel product under the light.
10. Apply the second coat, a little thicker than the first. Pick up the ‘bead of gel’ on one side of
the flat brush and hold the brush parallel and flat over the nail. Put the brush with gel down
short of the cuticle area, and then push toward the cuticle slightly. This will prevent a big
cuticle ridge from forming. Pull brush (still flat and parallel to nail) backward from cuticle to
free edge. Do not let the brush actually touch the nail. It floats on the nail on the cushion of
gel. Pull out and over (drop off) free edge. Go back with flat brush to right side and pull gel
around the curve of the nail and down the right side, being sure to get the gel as close as
possible to the sidewalls without touching them. Complete for left side. Gel will lift if it touches
the skin and shrink as it cures. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the method
required to cure their gel product under the light.

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11. Repeat Step 4 in this Section for the 3rd coat.
12. Inspect all nails, check for thin spots that may need more gel. They need to be thin at the
free edge and cuticle and reinforced at the stress area as in a traditional liquid or powder
acrylic nail.
13. Clean the nails by wiping tacky or sticky layer off nails with gel cleanser, ensuring not to wipe
the sticky layer onto the skin of the next nail. Use separate sections of the wipe for each nail.
If too much tacky product is coming off then the gel did not cure. Check the bulbs in the UV
light for dirt and dust. Remove dirt by wiping gently with a slightly damp cloth.
14. Note, once alcohol or cleanser has touched a nail, more gel cannot be applied without first
rebuffing to take shine off the gel. The gel will not stick to glossy gel, only tacky gel or non-
shiny gel.
15. If gel nails need to be finished by further filing they need to be ‘sealed’ by a further layer of
clear gel as they may peel away from the previous layer.
16. Using a block buffer, buff the nails until you have a smooth surface.
17. Have the client wash their hands thoroughly to remove all traces of dust. Apply a layer of
clear gel, cure as per manufacturer’s instructions and wipe over sticky residue with the
appropriate cleanser.
18. Massage cuticle oil into the cuticles and surrounding skin.
19. Apply hand cream and do hand and arm massage.
20. Remove any traces of cream and oil from the nail by wiping with a small piece of cotton
soaked in non-acetone polish remover.
21. Apply polish.
Procedure for removing gel nail enhancement
1. Gel nails do require filing however usually not all of the gel nail can be removed.
2. Shorten and shape the nails.
3. Thin out the entire nail and file flush the cuticles and sidewalls gently. Extreme care should
be taken to avoid filing the nail’s natural layers. File away as much gel as possible.The key
is to shorten the nails. It is difficult for a client to maintain the length they have become
accustomed to without the support of the gel enhancement.
4. Manicure the nails as natural nails using some type of reconditioning treatment, such as
paraffin wax.
5. Recommend the client to come in for a follow up manicure within one or two weeks to
assess the nails and see if any gel still remaining on the nail bed is still intact - it almost
always is because it is so thin and clear and almost imperceptible.
Working Safely with Chemicals
Providing gel nail enhancement services requires you to use chemicals that present health
hazards. The key to working safely is to understand how the chemicals can adversely affect
health and what you can do to prevent this.

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Session-3 : Nail Art
The secret behind nail art is introducing the right design to the right client, at the right time. A
person’s individuality can be expressed through the choice of nail art, but what pleases some
people will not please others. A nail technician needs to identify a client’s expectations and
characteristics in order to make a suitable recommendation. There are a number of characteristics
that need to be taken into consideration including the following:
 Personal preference - will influence the nature of the design and whether all ten nails are
painted or perhaps just one on each hand. The preferred design may be as simple as a
single coat of colour or as elaborate as a combination of colours, gems and feathers.
 Length and shape of the nail - must be taken into consideration so that you can select and
recommend a design to best suit the nail. For example, a design that is horizontal on the
nail will cause a short nail to look shorter, whereas a design that is vertical will enhance the
length. Consideration also needs to be given to the size and shape of the hands and fingers.
 Personal style of the client should always be considered. For example, a mature client who
is dressed in current, up-to-the minute fashion may feel insulted if you advise a conservative
design. Likewise a young person may be conservative.
 By accurately identifying a client’s individual characteristics you and the client can make the
suitable choices to suit their nails and personality.

Identifying why a client is having nail art

 It is necessary to find out why a client is having nail art applied so you can provide accurate
advice and recommendations for the service and appropriate aftercare advice, and more
effectively fulfil their expectations.
 There could be a number of reasons as to why a client wants art designs on their nails, for
example:
 to enhance the appearance of their nails
 to draw attention to their hands
 because it is currently fashionable
 for a special occasion.

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It is important to listen to what clients have to say and help them select the most suitable nail
art design.

Step – 1: Prepare the service area

Prepare the service area in the same way that you prepare for a basic Manicure and Pedicure
Service. Use the information in Manicure and Pedicure Services, Section A, Step 1. In addition
to the standard Manicure and Pedicure set up you will need to add the following for a nail art
service.
Additional tools you will need

Hand drill for nail a hand drill should be supplied by the company that supplies the
charm charms, as it is used to drill the correct size hole through the free
edge of the nail for the pierced charm to go through. The other
end of the drill is a wrench hole, used to screw on and tighten the
bolt on the underneath of the nail.
Nail art brushes small paintbrushes, available from art supply stores, used to
paint designs on nails. Several sizes should be kept at all times. A
long, bristled, thin drag brush can be used to draw thin stripes. A
small, shorthaired brush or a dotting tool is best for dots and
detail work. Small or medium sized brushes are used for painting
backgrounds.
Paint palette used to mix acrylic paints for freehand and painting.
Polish correcting pen-style implement with nail polish remover on the tip. This ‘pen’
stick can be used to remove nail polish from around the cuticle or
anywhere on the finger that should not have polish.
Resuable nail form made of aluminium, Teflon or plastic and has no adhesive back-
ing. A reusable nail form is used to sculpt 3D designs. The design
can be painted and then removed from the nail form and glued on
to the nail.
Small scissor or used to trim the self-adhesive nail tape before and after being
nippers applied to nail.
Tweezer used when applying a gold nail or working with nail cosmetics
such as feathers or lace.
Material
In addition to the Manicure and Pedicure materials you will need the following for nails are:

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 Acrylic powder and can come in three different colours, white, pink and clear. The
liquid liquid combined with the powder foil art. Emulsion glue is used to
stick the foil art on to the nail.
Emulsion glue it is used when creating foil art. Emulsion glue is used to stick the
foil art on to the nail.
Nail art paint any kind of acrylic paint can be used to paint on nail art designs.
Acrylic paint have a water based and are easy to apply.

Nail Cosmetics and Design Supplies

You will use these to create the actual design on the client’s nails. Don’t limit yourself to what is
listed here; your imagination and skill are your only limits. Nail technicians should look around in
nail suppliers, art shops and craft stores for ideas. Also attend any nail shows and beauty expos
you can in order to keep up with new trends.
Step – 2: Prepare the client for service
Identifying client characteristics
Now that the client has been made comfortable at the nail table, it is time to find out some
important information.
Creating design samples
1. To make nail art design samples for display, use a nail tip, an orangewood stick and some
acrylic. File the end of the nail tip to smooth it. File the tip number off and buff it so that the
spot is smooth. Doing this will make the nail art sample look neat and there will be no
scratches under the polish.
2. Turn the nail tip over and place it on the table. Put a small ball of acrylic on the end of the
tip and place the tip of the orangewood stick into the acrylic. Leave it to dry. When the acrylic
is dry, hold the stick with the nail on it to so that it is steady while you make the nail art
sample or simply to practise designs.
3. Use your imagination to create designs.Try combining several techniques and display freehand
designs related to a theme, for example, an ocean scene with trees and rocks for a holiday,
or hearts for St. Valentine’s Day. Display as many different sample designs as you can. Do
not be afraid to try anything; if a mistake is made, try again. The more sample nails you
create the more you will sell.
Promoting nail art services
Once you have the skills to create a wide selection of nail designs, clients need to see what can
be done. Successful nail technicians need to be good sales people as well.They will be responsible
for selling both nail art services and products that will help clients maintain their results.To be
successful, the basic selling goal should be to meet the needs of the clients.

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The five points to meet clients’ needs and sell a nail art service are:
1. Know the products - It is essential for you to have knowledge about the features and
application of the products and service so that you can explain and recommend them with
confidence to clients.
2. Know a client’s needs and wants - One of the important skills in selling is the ability to
match the products and services available in the workplace to the needs of the client. You
must take care to assess the client’s needs.
3. Present products and services - Promoting products and services and displaying them
attractively will encourage sales. The key to successful merchandising is having the right
products and services:
 at the right time
 in the right place
 in the right quantity
 at the right price.
This means the products and services that you sell are appropriate to the particular target market.
4. Answer clients’questions - When answering a client’s questions, do so with honesty and
openness. Never try to sell a product or service that will not meet the client’s needs. It is
essential to listen carefully to the client’s answers to find out:
 what the client’s priority purchase is
 what the client usually spends on that type of product
 what the client’s other concerns and interests are for add-on sales and future business.
Step – 1: Create nail designs
 The first thing you should do to prepare for most nail art services is polish the nails. This
creates a backdrop for the work. Apply the base coat then two layers of colour, which
must dry in between, and finish with a coat of clear polish or topcoat. This last coat is
very important because without it, or if it is not dry before you begin, the polish colour
will bleed through the design. When designing on nails that are weak or have ridges,
ridge filler can replace the base coat. This will help make the polish and design last
longer and add body to the nails to give them more strength. After applying the topcoat,
let the nails dry for ten minutes before starting the nail design.
Points to remember
 Do not use ridge filler if several extra layers of polish are being applied to complete a
design as it will be too thick and will never dry.
 Let each coat dry between applications to ensure smudge-free results.
 Clean mistakes on the cuticle with an orangewood stick.

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 When polishing very long nails, polish the free edge first then the rest of the nail.
 Cover colour with topcoat and let it dry before continuing with design to prevent colours
from bleeding into each other.
Step – 2: Apply nail designs
The following information shows how to work with a range of commonly available nail art materials.
Over time you will add to these. It is worthwhile for you to visit art supply and craft stores to collect
art materials that are suitable for use in nail designs. To get some inspiration use the internet to
search for images of the latest nail art designs or get details of a nail art competition in your state
or territory.
1. Layered nail polish
By layering the polish colours it is possible to create beautiful designs, such as stripes, V shapes
and multi coloured swirls. By layering the different colours while making a different line of design
on each layer you create layered polish designs.

Procedure for layered polish design

You will need several colours of polish that complement each other, an orangewood stick and
polish remover.
 Prepare the nails by sanitizing the nail beds.
 Apply a base coat and let dry.
 Apply one coat of coloured polish as the base colour.
 Apply second coat of base colour, making it thinner at the free edge and let it dry thoroughly
to prevent smudging.
 After the base layers are dry, use a second colour to paint the end of the nail at an angle
leaving a space so that the base colour is still visible. Stop here or layer several more times
using another colour or switching between the two, always making sure that the polish is
thinner at the free edge.

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2. Nail tape application
Nails can be decorated with nail tape, which is available in different colours and thickness. Gold
and silver are the most popular. The tape can be used alone or as part of another design.

Procedure for nail tape application

You will need self-adhesive nail tape, clear polish and sharp nippers or small sharp scissors.
 Prepare the nails by sanitizing the nail beds.
 Polish the nails in the regular manner. If applying nail tape over another design, the design
must be dry.
 Hold the end of the tape in one hand and hold the roll of tape, sticky side down, in the other.
Be careful not to touch the back of the tape or it will not be sticky enough.
 Place the tape on the nail in the desired position and cut the tape off at the end of the roll,
leaving the ends long until the pattern is complete.
 Use an orangewood stick to press the tape firmly in place. Place a small drop of clear polish
under the ends if they stick up, let dry a little and then press again.
 Be sure that there are no air bubbles under the tape and that the ends are well pressed
down. To avoid air bubbles, do not apply the topcoat too quickly.
 Continue to apply the tape in this manner until the design is complete.
 Trim all the tape ends with nippers or scissors.
 Apply clear polish over the top to seal your work, making sure that the ends of the tape have
also been covered.
 Allow to dry and check that tape ends are safe and secure. If they are not, apply another
coat of clear to secure them.
3. Bullion beads
Bullion beads are used to create or enhance nail designs. The beads are available in many
colours but the gold and silver are the most popular.

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Procedure for bullion beads
You will need bullion beads in desired colours, clear polish and an orangewood stick.
 Prepare the nails by sanitizing the nail beds.
 Polish the nails with the chosen colour in the regular manner and allow to dry. Let the base
dry completely before starting the design.
 Apply clear polish on the nail in the area where the beads are to be placed.
 Dip the wet nail surface into the beads so that they stick into the wet clear polish. Arrange
the edges of the design with the orangewood stick. If covering a small area, apply the beads
the same way the gemstones are applied with an orangewood stick.
 If using two different coloured sets of beads, repeat the process with the second colour.
Continue the coating and dipping process until the design is complete.
 Cover the design with two coats of clear polish to seal the beads.
4. Foil art
Every foil art design comes out differently. To make any two nails exactly the same is impossible
but they can be kept similar by using the same method on each nail. The foil is supplied on thin
cellophane backing. Special emulsion glue is painted on the area of the nail where you want the
foil to be applied. After the glue is dry, the foil is pressed onto the nail and the cellophane backing
is peeled away.

Procedure for foil art

You will need foil in desired colour or colours, emulsion glue, small scissors and an orangewood
stick.
 Prepare the nails by sanitizing the nail beds.
 Polish nails in the regular manner and let polish dry completely. The foil will not work if the
polish is not dry.
 Apply the emulsion glue to the area of the nail where the foil is to be applied.
 Let glue dry just until it turns clear and then gently press a cut a piece of foil onto the glue.
 Gently pull the edge of the foil away from the nail so that the colour adheres to the glue and

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 the clear cellophane backing is removed.
 If another colour is required, press it over the same area to blend the colours. The foil will
stick to the glue where the first colour did not.
 To make fancy designs, more emulsion can be added to different areas of the nail and other
colours added separately.
 Cover the design with clear polish to seal and protect.
Review Questions
Q1. Write any five types of manicure ?
a) _________________________
b) _________________________
c) _________________________
d) _________________________
e) _________________________
Q2. Write any four benefits of Gel nail?
a) _________________________
b) _________________________
c) _________________________
d) _________________________
e) _________________________
Q3. Write the clients characteristics for gel nail enhancements?
a) _________________________
b) ._________________________
c) _________________________
d) _________________________
e) _________________________
Q4. Describe the procedure of Gel nails?
Q5. Write the step wise procedure for the removal of Gel nails?
Q6. List the Cosmetics used for Gel nails?
Q7. Write modern technologies available in nail extensions?
Q8. List the tools and material required for Nail Art?

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Q9. Write the cosmetics and design for Nail Art?
Q10. Write the procedure of layered nail polish?
Q11. Write the reasons why client want nail art design?
Q12. Fill in the blanks
a) Gel products are made up of _________________.
b) Three main families of acrylics used in artificial nail systems are ____________ ,
____________ , ______________ .
c) ______________ , ______________ , ______________ are used as Nail Extensions.
d) It is possible to create beautiful designs by ______________ the polish colour.
e) _____________ , ______________ , ______________ are nail design suppliers.
f) ______________ , ______________ are most popular nail tapes.
g) ______________ are used to create or enhance nail design.

Q13. Match the following

Column A Column B
1. Nail Extensions 1. Bullion beads, confetti, feathers decals.
2. Types of Manicure 2. Different types of art are used.
3. Gel nail 3. Bonding process is assisted by the UV light.
4. Hot oil Manicure 4. Acrylic nail, sculptured nail, Nail wraps.
5. Nail cosmetics 5. Spa manicure, paraffin manicure, French manicure.

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