374 C H A P T E R 16 CAKE MIXING AND BAKING

occasions. With only a few basic formulas and a variety of icings and fillings, the chef or
baker can construct the perfect dessert for any occasion or purpose.

The formulas at the end of the chapter will give you practice with all major cake-mixing
methods. Many popular North American cake types are included, sometimes in the
form of variations on the basic cake types. These variations show that by making small
changes in flavoring ingredients, you can make many different cakes from the same
basic recipe. Adding new flavorings sometimes requires other ingredient changes. For
example, in the case of the Strawberry Cake (p. 398), the flavoring ingredient is high in
sugar, so the amount of sugar in the formula is reduced.

In this chapter, we focus on the procedures for mixing and baking the basic types
of cakes. In Chapter 17, we discuss how to assemble and decorate many kinds of cake
desserts.

PRINCIPLES OF CAKE MIXING

THE SELECTION OF high-quality ingredients is, of course, necessary to produce a high-quality
cake. However, good ingredients alone do not guarantee a fine cake. A thorough understanding
of mixing procedures is essential. Slight errors in mixing can result in cakes with poor texture and
volume.
The mixing methods presented in this chapter are the basic ones used for most types
of cakes prepared in the modern bakeshop. Each of these methods is used for particular
types of formulas, as listed here:

• High-fat or shortened cakes

Creaming method
Two-stage method
One-stage (liquid shortening) method
Flour-batter method
• Egg-foam cakes
Sponge method
Angel food method
Chiffon method
Combination creaming/sponge method

We discuss these methods and their variations in detail beginning on page 380. You should
learn these methods well. They are not repeated for each of the formulas later in this chapter, but
page references in the formulas enable you to review the appropriate method as necessary before
beginning production.
The three main goals of mixing cake batters are:

• To combine all ingredients into a smooth, uniform batter.

• To form and incorporate air cells in the batter.
• To develop the proper texture in the finished product.

These three goals are closely related. They may seem fairly obvious, especially the first one.
But understanding each of the goals in detail will help you avoid many errors in mixing. For exam-
ple, inexperienced bakers often grow impatient and turn the mixer to high speed when creaming
fat and sugar, thinking high speed will do the same job faster. But air cells do not form as well at
high speed, so the texture of the cake suffers.
Let’s examine these three goals one at a time.
 PRINCIPLES OF CAKE MIXING 375

Combining Ingredients into a Homogeneous Mixture

Two of the major ingredients in cakes—fat and water (including the water in milk and eggs)—are, by
nature, unmixable. Therefore, careful attention to mixing procedures is important to reach this goal.
As you recall from Chapter 4 (p. 67), a uniform mixture of two unmixable substances is called an
emulsion. Part of the purpose of mixing is to form such an emulsion. Properly mixed cake batters
contain a water-in-fat emulsion; that is, the water is held in tiny droplets surrounded by fat and other
ingredients. Curdling occurs when the fat can no longer hold the water in emulsion. The mixture then
changes to a fat-in-water mixture, with small particles of fat surrounded by water and other ingredients.
The following factors can cause curdling:
1. Using the wrong type of fat. Different fats have different emulsifying abilities. High-ratio
shortening contains emulsifiers that enable it to hold a large amount of water without cur-
dling. You should not substitute regular shortening or butter in a formula that calls specifi-
cally for high-ratio, or emulsified, shortening.
Butter has a desirable flavor but relatively poor emulsifying ability. Butter is, of course,
used in many cake batters, but the formula should be specifically balanced so it contains no
more liquid than the batter can hold. Also, remember that butter contains some water.
Egg yolks, as you will recall, contain a natural emulsifier. When whole eggs or yolks are
properly mixed into a batter, they help the batter hold the other liquids.
2. Having the ingredients too cold. Emulsions are best formed when the temperature of the
ingredients is about 70°F (21°C).
3. Mixing the first stage of the procedure too quickly. If you do not cream the fat and sugar
properly, for example, you will not form a good cell structure to hold the water (see “Forming
Air Cells,” below).
4. Adding the liquids too quickly. In most cases the liquids, including the eggs, must be added in
stages—that is, a little at a time. If they are added too quickly, they cannot be absorbed properly.
In batters made by the creaming method (p. 377), the liquid is often added alternately
with the flour. The flour helps the batter absorb the liquid.
5. Adding too much liquid. This is not a problem if the formula is a good one. However, if you
are using a formula that is not properly balanced, it might call for more liquid than the fat
can hold in emulsion.

Forming Air Cells

Air cells in cake batters are important for texture and leavening. A fine, smooth texture is the
result of small, uniform air cells. Large or irregular air cells result in a coarse texture. And recall
that air trapped in a mix helps leaven a cake when the heat of the oven causes the air to expand
(p. 94). When no chemical leavener is used, this trapped air, in addition to steam, provides nearly
all the leavening. Even when baking powder or soda is used, the air cells provide places to hold
the gases released by the chemical leavener.
Correct ingredient temperature and mixing speed are necessary for good air cell formation.
Cold fat (below 60°F/16°C) is too hard to form good air cells, and fat that is too warm (above
75°F/24°C) is too soft. Mixing speed should be moderate (medium speed). If mixing is done on
high speed, friction warms the ingredients too much. Not as many air cells are formed, and those
that do form tend to be coarse and irregular.
Granulated sugar is the proper sugar for creaming-method cakes. Confectioners’ sugar is too
fine to produce good air cells.
In the case of egg-foam cakes (sponge, angel food, chiffon), the air cells are formed by whip-
ping eggs and sugar. For the best foaming, the egg and sugar mixture should be slightly warm
(about 100°F/38°C). Whipping may be done at high speed at first, but the final stages of whipping
should be at medium speed in order to retain air cells.

Developing Texture
Both the uniform mixing of ingredients and the formation of air cells are important to a cake’s
texture, as we discussed in the preceding sections. Another factor of mixing that affects texture is
gluten development. For the most part, we want very little gluten development in cakes, so we
376 C H A P T E R 16 CAKE MIXING AND BAKING

use cake flour, which is low in gluten. Some sponge cake formulas call for cornstarch to replace
part of the flour, so there is even less gluten (the high percentage of eggs in sponge cakes provides
much of the structure). In contrast, some pound cake and fruit cake formulas need more gluten
than other cakes for extra structure and to support the weight of the fruit. Thus, you will some-
times see such cake formulas calling for part cake flour and part bread flour.
Recall from Chapter 5 that the amount of mixing affects gluten development. In the cream-
ing method, the sponge method, and the angel food method, the flour is added at or near the end
of the mixing procedure so there is very little gluten development in properly mixed batters. If the
batter is mixed too long after the flour is added, or if it becomes too warm during mixing, the
cakes are likely to be tough.
In the two-stage method, the flour is added in the first step. However, it is mixed with high-
ratio shortening, which spreads well and coats the particles of flour with fat. This coating action
limits gluten development. It is important to mix the flour and fat thoroughly for the best results.
Observe all mixing times closely. Also, keep in mind that high-ratio cakes contain a high percent-
age of sugar, which is also a tenderizer.

M I X I N G H I G H - FAT O R S H O R T E N E D C A K E S
Creaming Method
The creaming method, also called the conventional method, was for a long time the standard
method for mixing high-fat cakes. The development of emulsified, or high-ratio, shortenings led
to the development of simpler mixing methods for shortened cakes containing greater amounts
of sugar and liquid. The creaming method is still used for many types of butter cakes, however.
The fat specified in creaming-method formulas in this book is butter. Butter cakes are highly
prized for their flavor; shortening adds no flavor to cakes. Butter also influences texture because
it melts in the mouth, whereas shortening does not.
Nevertheless, many bakers may prefer to substitute shortening for all or part of the butter in
these formulas. Shortening has the advantages of being less expensive and easier to mix. In
creaming recipes, use regular shortening, not emulsified shortening. Regular shortening has bet-
ter creaming abilities.
It is usually a good idea not to substitute an equal weight of shortening for butter. Remember
that butter is only 80% fat, so you will need less shortening. Also, butter contains about 15% water, so
you should adjust the quantity of milk or water. The Procedure for Substituting Butter and Shortening
in Creaming-Method Batters (p. 378) explains how to adjust formulas for these substitutions.

Two-Stage Method
The two-stage method was developed for use with high-ratio plastic shortenings. High-ratio
cakes contain a large percentage of sugar, more than 100% based on the weight of the flour. Also,
they are made with more liquid than creaming-method cakes, and the batter pours more freely.
The two-stage mixing method is a little simpler than the creaming method, and it produces a
smooth batter that bakes up into a fine-grained, moist cake. It gets its name because the liquids
are added in two stages.
The first step in making high-ratio cakes is to blend the flour and other dry ingredients with
shortening. When this mixture is smooth, the liquids (including eggs) are added in stages.
Throughout this procedure, it is important to follow two rules:

• Mix at low speed and observe correct mixing times. This is important to develop proper texture.
• Stop the machine and scrape down the sides of the bowl frequently during mixing. This is
important to develop a smooth, well-mixed batter.
Note the variation following the basic procedure. Many bakers prefer this variation. It is
somewhat simpler because it combines steps 2 and 3.
The two-stage method can sometimes be adapted to butter cakes, especially those high in
fat. As an experiment, try making a butter cake formula with the creaming method and the two-
stage method and comparing the texture of the finished cakes.
 MIXING HIGH-FAT OR SHORTENED CAKES 377

PROCEDURE: Creaming Method

1. Scale ingredients accurately. Have all ingredients at 6. Add the sifted dry ingredients (including the spices, if
room temperature (70°F/21°C). they were not added in step 3), alternating with the
2. Place the butter or shortening in the mixing bowl. With liquids. This is done as follows:
the paddle attachment, beat the fat slowly, until it is Add one-fourth of the dry ingredients (c). Mix just until
smooth and creamy. blended in.
3. Add the sugar; cream the mixture at moderate speed Add one-third of the liquid (d). Mix just until blended in.
until the mixture is light and fluffy (a). This will take Repeat until all ingredients are used. Scrape down the
about 8 to 10 minutes. sides of the bowl occasionally for even mixing.
Some bakers prefer to add the salt and flavorings with The reason for adding dry and liquid ingredients
the sugar to ensure uniform distribution. alternately is that the batter may not absorb all the
If melted chocolate is used, it may be added during liquid unless some of the flour is present.
creaming.

C
A

4. Add the eggs a little at a time (b). After each addition,

beat until the eggs are absorbed before adding more.
After the eggs are beaten in, mix until light and fluffy.
This step will take about 5 minutes.

Variation
A few creaming-method cakes require an extra step: egg
whites whipped to a foam with sugar are folded into the
batter to provide additional leavening.
B

5. Scrape down the sides of the bowl to ensure even

mixing.
378 C H A P T E R 16 CAKE MIXING AND BAKING

PROCEDURE: Substituting Butter and Shortening

in Creaming-Method Batters

To substitute regular shortening for all or part To substitute butter for all or part of the regular
of the butter: shortening:
1. Multiply the weight of the butter to be eliminated by 0.8. 1. Multiply the weight of the shortening to be eliminated by
This gives the weight of regular shortening to use. 1.25. This gives the weight of the butter to use.
2. Multiply the weight of the eliminated butter by 0.15. This 2. Multiply the weight of the butter by 0.15. This gives the
gives the weight of additional water or milk needed. weight of water or milk to be subtracted from the
Example: A formula calls for 3 lb butter and 3 lb milk. formula.
Adjust it so you use 1 lb (16 oz) butter. How much Example: A formula calls for 3 lb regular shortening and
shortening and milk will you need? 3 lb milk. Adjust it so you use 1 lb (16 oz) shortening.
How much butter and milk will you need?
Weight of butter
to be eliminated 2 lb Weight of shortening
32 oz to be eliminated 2 lb
0.8 32 oz 26 oz shortening 32 oz
(rounded off) 1.25 32 oz 40 oz butter
0.15 32 oz 5 oz extra milk 0.15 40 oz 6 oz milk to be subtracted
(rounded off) from the formula
Total milk 3 lb 5 oz Total milk 2 lb 10 oz

PROCEDURE: Two-Stage Method

1. Scale the ingredients accurately. Have all ingredients at 4. Combine the remaining liquids and lightly beaten eggs.
room temperature. With the mixer running, add this mixture to the batter in
2. Sift the flour, baking powder, soda, and salt into the 3 parts. After each part, turn off the machine and scrape
mixing bowl and add the shortening. With the paddle down the bowl. Continue mixing for a total of 5 minutes
attachment, mix at low speed for 2 minutes. Stop the in this stage.
machine, scrape down the bowl and beater, and mix The finished batter is normally pourable.
again for 2 minutes.
Variation
If melted chocolate is used, blend it in during this step.
If cocoa is used, sift it with the flour in this step or with This variation combines steps 2 and 3 above into one step.
the sugar in step 3. 1. Scale the ingredients as in the basic method.
3. Sift the remaining dry ingredients into the bowl and 2. Sift all dry ingredients into the mixing bowl. Add the
add part of the water or milk. Blend at low speed for shortening and part of the liquid. Mix on low speed for
3 to 5 minutes. Stop the machine and scrape down the 7 to 8 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and
sides of the bowl and the beater several times to ensure the beater several times.
even mixing. 3. Continue with step 4 in the basic procedure.
 MIXING HIGH-FAT OR SHORTENED CAKES 379

One-Stage (Liquid Shortening) Method

High-ratio liquid shortening, described on page 68, is so effective at emulsifying and at spreading
through the batter to tenderize gluten that cake batters made from it can generally be mixed all
in one step—thus called the one-stage method. Adding the liquid ingredients to the bowl first
simplifies the procedure because there is less chance for moistened flour to coat the bottom and
sides of the bowl, making scraping down difficult. Mix at low speed until the dry ingredients are
moistened, to prevent dry flour from being thrown from the bowl. Then mix for a period at high
speed, followed by a period at medium speed, to properly develop air cells and create a smooth,
fine-textured batter.

PROCEDURE: One-Stage (Liquid Shortening) Method

1. Scale all ingredients accurately. Have all ingredients at 4. With the paddle attachment, mix at low speed for
room temperature. 30 seconds (c), until the dry ingredients are moistened.
2. Combine all liquid ingredients, including high-ratio (The purpose of mixing slowly until the dry ingredients
liquid shortening, in the mixing bowl (a). are moistened is to keep them from being thrown out of
the bowl.)

A
C

3. Sift the dry ingredients together on top of the liquid

ingredients in the bowl (b). 5. Mix at high speed for 4 minutes. Stop the machine and
scrape down the bowl and beater.
6. Mix at medium speed for 3 minutes (d).

D
380 C H A P T E R 16 CAKE MIXING AND BAKING

Flour-Batter Method
The flour-batter method is used for only a few specialty items. It produces a fine-textured cake,
but there may be some toughening due to the development of gluten.
Flour-batter cakes include those made with either emulsified shortening or butter or both.
There are no formulas in this book requiring this mixing method, although the batter for Old-
Fashioned Pound Cake (p. 394) can be mixed this way instead of by the creaming method.

PROCEDURE: Flour-Batter Method

1. Scale all ingredients accurately. Have all ingredients at 3. Whip the sugar and eggs together until thick and light.
room temperature. Add liquid flavoring ingredients, such as vanilla.
2. Sift the flour and other dry ingredients except the sugar 4. Combine the flour-fat mixture and the sugar-egg mixture
into the mixing bowl. Add the fat. Blend together until and mix until smooth.
smooth and light. 5. Gradually add water or milk (if any) and mix smooth.

KEY POINTS TO REVIEW

❚ What are the steps in the creaming method?
❚ What are the steps in the two-stage method?
❚ What are the steps in the one-stage method?

MIXING EGG-FOAM CAKES

Most egg-foam cakes contain little or no shortening and depend on the air trapped in beaten eggs
for most or all of their leavening. Growing interest in fine pastries and cakes has led to new apprecia-
tion of the versatility of sponge cakes. Therefore, this chapter includes formulas for a great variety
of egg-foam batters. These cakes are used in many of the special desserts assembled in Chapter 17.
Egg-foam cakes have a springy texture and are tougher than shortened cakes. This makes
them valuable for many kinds of desserts that require much handling to assemble. Most European
cakes and tortes are made with sponge or egg-foam cakes. These cakes are baked either in thin
sheets or disks or in thick layers that are then sliced horizontally into thinner layers. The thin sponge
layers are then stacked with a variety of fillings, creams, mousses, fruits, and icings. In addition,
sponge layers in this kind of cake are usually moistened with a flavored sugar syrup, to compensate
for their lack of moisture.
Sponge sheets for jelly rolls and other rolled cakes are often made without any shortening
so they do not crack when rolled. Because fat weakens gluten, sponge cakes containing fat may
split more easily.
Flour for egg-foam cakes must be weak in order to avoid making the cake tougher than nec-
essary. Cornstarch is sometimes added to cake flour for these cakes to weaken the flour further.
Note that at the beginning of this section we said that most egg-foam cakes contain little or
even no fat. This is true of the most typical cakes in this section: genoise and other sponge cakes,
which have little fat, and angel food cakes, which have none. As a result, egg-foam cakes are often
called low-fat cakes, to distinguish them from the high-fat cakes discussed in the previous section.
However, a few formulas are an exception. For example, the Joconde Sponge Cake on p. 405 con-
tains 120% butter, while the Chocolate Fudge Cake on p. 405 contains 400% butter in addition to
the fat content of the chocolate. Nevertheless, their mixing method is based on incorporating an
egg-and-sugar foam into the other batter ingredients, just as for the other cakes in this section.

Sponge Methods
The many types of sponge method cakes have one characteristic in common: they are made
with an egg foam that contains yolks. These are usually whole-egg foams but, in some cases, the
base foam is a yolk foam, and an egg white foam is folded in at the end of the procedure.
 MIXING EGG-FOAM CAKES 381

In its simplest form, sponge cake batter is made in two basic steps: (1) eggs and sugar are
whipped to a thick foam, and (2) sifted flour is folded in. Additional ingredients, such as butter or
liquid, complicate the procedure slightly. It would be too confusing to try to include all the varia-
tions in one procedure, so instead we describe four separate procedures.
Please note the difference between the main procedure and the first variation. There may be
some confusion because in North American bakeshops, genoise nearly always contains butter.
Nevertheless, in classical pâtisserie, genoise is often made without butter, and it is still commonly
made in European bakeshops with only eggs, sugar, and flour. Furthermore, the main procedure as

PROCEDURE: Plain Sponge or Genoise Method

1. Scale all ingredients accurately. 6. Immediately pan and bake the batter. Delays will cause
2. Combine the eggs, sugar, and salt in a stainless steel loss of volume.
bowl. Immediately set the bowl over a hot-water bath
and stir or beat with a whip until the mixture warms Variation: Butter Sponge or Butter Genoise
to a temperature 1. Follow the plain sponge procedure through step 5.
of about 110°F
(43°C) (a). The
2. Carefully fold in the melted butter after the flour has
been added. Fold in the butter completely, but
reason for this
be careful not to
step is that the
overmix, or the
foam attains
cake will be
greater volume if
tough (d).
warm.

3. With a wire whip or the whip attachment of a mixer, beat

the eggs at high speed until they are very light and thick
and about three times their original volume (b). Toward the D
end of the mixing
period, it is helpful
to turn the mixer 3. Immediately pan and bake.
speed to medium,
in order to preserve Variation: Hot Milk and Butter Sponge
a more uniform cell 1. Scale all ingredients accurately. Heat the milk and butter
structure. Total together until the butter is melted.
mixing time may be
2. Whip the eggs into a foam, as in the plain sponge
as long as 10 to
method, steps 2 and 3.
15 minutes if the
B 3. Fold in the sifted dry ingredients (flour, leavening, cocoa,
quantity is large.
etc.), as in the basic procedure.
4. If any liquid (water, milk, liquid flavoring) is included,
add it now. Either whip it in, in a steady stream, or stir it 4. Carefully fold in the hot butter and milk in 3 stages. Fold
in, as indicated in the recipe. in completely, but do not overmix.

5. Fold in the sifted flour in 3 or 4 stages, being careful not to 5. Immediately pan and bake.
deflate the foam. Many bakers do this by hand, even for
large batches. Fold Variation: Separated-Egg Sponge
gently until all the 1. Follow the basic plain sponge method, steps 1–4, but
flour is blended in use yolks for the basic foam (steps 2 and 3). Reserve the
(c). If any other dry egg whites and part of the sugar for a separate step.
ingredients are
used, such as
2. Whip the egg whites and sugar to firm, moist peaks. Fold
into the batter alternately with the sifted dry ingredients.
cornstarch or
Fold in completely, but do not overmix.
baking powder, sift
them first with the 3. Immediately pan and bake.
flour.
C
382 C H A P T E R 16 CAKE MIXING AND BAKING

given here explains sponge cakes in their simplest and most basic form, and this procedure is the
foundation for the variations that follow. If you work in a bakeshop in Canada or the United States,
however, you can expect to use the first variation instead of the main procedure to mix basic genoise.

Angel Food Method

Angel food cakes are based on egg-white foams and contain no fat. (For success in beating egg
whites, review the principles of egg white foams in Chapter 12, p. 258.) Egg whites for the
angel food method should be whipped until they form soft, not stiff, peaks. Overwhipped
whites lose their capability to expand and to leaven the cake. This is because the protein network
in stiffly beaten whites has already stretched as far as it can. If the whites are whipped to soft
peaks instead, they can stretch more during baking, allowing the cake to rise.

PROCEDURE: Angel Food Method

1. Scale ingredients accurately. Have all ingredients at

room temperature. The egg whites may be slightly
warmed in order to achieve better volume.
2. Sift the flour with half the sugar. This step helps the flour
mix more evenly with the foam.
3. Using the whip attachment, beat the egg whites until
they form soft peaks. Add salt and cream of tartar near
the beginning of the beating process (a).
C

5. Fold in the flour-sugar mixture just until it is thoroughly

absorbed, but no longer (d).

4. Gradually beat in the portion of the sugar that was not

mixed with the flour (b). Continue to whip until the egg
D
whites form soft, moist peaks (c). Do not beat until stiff.
Beat in the flavorings.
6. Deposit the mix in ungreased pans (e) and bake
immediately.