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Waves Notes

The document discusses coastal processes related to waves, explaining how waves are formed by wind and the circular motion of water particles. It differentiates between swash, which is the water moving onto the beach, and backwash, which is the water returning to the sea, as well as between constructive waves that build beaches and destructive waves that erode them. Constructive waves have a powerful swash and carry more sediment, while destructive waves have a steep profile and a strong backwash that removes material from the beach.

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Sunniel Bernard
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20 views2 pages

Waves Notes

The document discusses coastal processes related to waves, explaining how waves are formed by wind and the circular motion of water particles. It differentiates between swash, which is the water moving onto the beach, and backwash, which is the water returning to the sea, as well as between constructive waves that build beaches and destructive waves that erode them. Constructive waves have a powerful swash and carry more sediment, while destructive waves have a steep profile and a strong backwash that removes material from the beach.

Uploaded by

Sunniel Bernard
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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School: Meadowbrook High School

Subject: Geography

Grade: 10

Topic: Coastal Processes: Waves

Objectives:

1. Describe how waves are formed.

2. Differentiate between a swash and a backwash.

3. Differentiate between constructive and destructive waves.

Waves

Most waves are formed by wind blowing across the surface of the sea or other large body of

water. The friction between the wind and the surface of the water causes the water to move

in a circular motion. Although the wave moves forward, the water does not move with it.

Each particle of water simply moves around in a circular motion. As the wave moves into

shallow water, it breaks. When the depth of the sea is less than the height of the wave,

friction with the bottom increases and the wave slows down. The wavelength becomes

shorter and the front of the wave becomes steeper. The top of the wave then tumbles forward.

When this happens, the wave is said to break. This is the only time water is thrown forward

by the wave.

When the wave breaks, the water which is thrown onto the beach is called the swash. The

swash takes cloud of sand particles and even small stones up the beach with it. The water

which drains back into the sea is called the backwash. The backwash drags sediment from

the beach back into the water.


Types of Waves

It is possible to identify two types of waves at the coast: Constructive and Destructive waves.

Constructive waves

Constructive waves are waves that surge up the beach with a powerful swash. The swash

carries more material than the backwash. They carry large amount of sediment and

‘construct’ or build the beach, making it more extensive. The front of the wave is not too

steep and the wavelength is long (waves are well spaced apart). There may be six to eight

waves per minute. Breakers formed by long-distance swell are usually constructive. These

waves are loved by surfers.

Destructive waves

Destructive waves are so-named because they ‘destroy’ the beach. These waves have a steep

profile, a short wavelength (waves closely spaced) and a greater frequency with ten to

fourteen waves per minute. They erode the beach. Destructive waves rear up to form

towering waves before crashing down onto the beach. There is a powerful backwash which

drags more material down the beach than what the swash has carried up. This explains the

removal of sediment and the destruction of the beach.

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