Vintage Hairstyles Simple Steps for Retro Hair with a Modern
Twist
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First published in the United States of America in 2015 by Chronicle Books LLC.
First published in Sweden in 2014 by Norstedts as Vintage frisyrer.
Copyright © 2014 by Sarah Wing, Emma Sundh, and Norstedts.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission
from the publisher.
ISBN 978-1-4521-4877-9 (epub, mobi)
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: Sundh, Emma.
Vintage hairstyles : simple steps for retro hair with a modern twist
/ Emma Sundh, Sarah Wing ; photographs by Martina Ankarfyr.
pages cm
ISBN 978-1-4521-4308-8 (hc)
1. Hairstyles. I. Wing, Sarah. II. Title.
TT972.S795 2014
646.7’24—dc23
2014049156
Design and layout: Katy Kimbell
All photography: Martina Ankarfyr
Illustrations: Emma Sundh
Prepress: Elanders Fälth & Hässler, Värnamo
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
Contents
INTRODUCTION
HAIRSTYLE HISTORY
20
TOOLS AND TIPS OF THE TRADE
26
CURL POWER: TECHNIQUES FOR CURLY LOCKS
38
BANG IT OUT
44
HAIRSTYLES: GET THE LOOK
88
ALL ABOUT COLOR
90
TOPPING IT OFF
100
MAD ABOUT MAKEUP
118
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
INTRODUCTION
Have you dreamed of getting retro hair in a flash? You’ve come to the right
place, darling. Welcome to Vintage Hairstyles.
Forget hood dryers and hours of trying to get every little curl in place,
which only leads to sore arms. I’ve spent hours perfecting hairstyles using
retro techniques, which has inspired me to modernize and simplify the
world’s oldest accessory—the hairdo.
Some things have changed for the better since the vintage years. Today,
we have access to faster techniques. We have curling irons (that don’t burn
your hair off), heat protectants (your hair will thank you), and my personal
savior—hair spray. With the help of these innovations—and a few others—
creating a vintage hairdo doesn’t take any longer than styling a modern bob
cut!
I’ve refined techniques, removed unnecessary steps, and come up with a
few tricks of my own that will help you along the way. That’s exactly what
this book is about: easy tricks with fabulous results. Naturally, I’ll also share
a few old-time goodies like pin curls, finger waves, and rolls, which I treat
exactly the way people did back in the day.
In making this book, I handpicked a few of my salon clients to show you
that anyone can create these styles. You don’t need a contract with Warner
Brothers to enhance your great looks and become a femme fatale from the
’40s, a bombshell from the ’50s, or a vixen from the ’60s. Find the
inspiration in this book to create the style you’ve always dreamed of or to
fine-tune the great look you already have.
Soon, you’ll master all the tricks and techniques you need to vary your
look and become your best you. The possibilities are endless.
A motto I’ve always cherished (and which was especially true in the
1940s) is: Great hair does wonders for any outfit. Learn to work your hair
and you’ve got an eye-catching accessory free of charge. Wear the same
dress and switch up your hair and you’ve got a whole new outfit!
I find inspiration for hairstyles everywhere—in old pictures of
glamorous actresses and in albums found at flea markets featuring
everyday girls. The feminine appeal of billowing curls and the magnificence
of an artistic party updo is a visual treat, inspiring my own creativity.
There’s always a new shape or style to be discovered around the corner.
I have been styling hair for ten years now, and my business has always
been about inspiration and innovation. In my opinion, you’re free to mix
new and old to create a personal style that’s all your own.
Have fun curling, pinning, and rolling!
Hairstyle History
HISTORY CAN BE RETOLD THROUGH HAIR SALON VISITS.
THE 1910S SAW THE BIRTH OF THE BOB CUT, THE WARTIME
’40S INCLUDED LIPS PAINTED RED, AND THE REBELLIOUS ’60S
WELCOMED THE PONYTAIL. SUPERFICIAL? FAR FROM IT.
A HAIRCUT CAN SPARK A WOMAN’S EMANCIPATION
JUST AS IT CAN EXPRESS POLITICS, ECONOMICS, AND
WOMEN’S ISSUES. HAIRSTYLES MAKE HEADLINES—
AND DID SO FROM THE 1910S TO THE 1960S.
THE 1910s
t the dawn of the twentieth century, at the very height of
A
industrialization, things began to change. Scissors were sharpened
and long hair was cut off. Until this time, hair had been gathered
into large pompadours. The common practice for women had been
to simply let the hair grow . . . grow . . . and grow some more. As a
rule, women didn’t cut their hair at all during the 1910s. There were
no hair salons for women; the only thing that even came close were men’s
barbershops, but no women went there, since the barbershop was an
exclusively male territory. Here, beards were cut and shaved with knives
and the expertly waxed dandy mustaches were styled with care, at least the
beards and mustaches of those who could afford it.
The emerging newly industrial society was anything but equal. Gaps
between classes were huge and poverty was widespread. The outbreak of
World War I in 1914 didn’t help the situation. Fashion and hairstyles
distinguished the rich from the poor, especially in wartime, when
importing goods like fabrics and hats became difficult.
THE BIGGER THE BETTER
In the 1910s, women wore their long hair in a bun or a chignon. Wearing
your hair down was simply not done, unless you were a child. In true
Edwardian spirit, the hair would be elegantly rolled up with lots of volume.
Curling irons were heated by leaving them on the stove. To ensure the iron
wasn’t so hot it burned the hair off, women would hold a small piece of
paper to the iron to test it. Clever—and frighteningly hazardous.
Once the updo was set, tiny wisps of hair were curled to showcase class
and style. The pompous hairstyles stayed in place with U-shaped bobby
pins and a tried-and-true technique—working with unwashed hair. This
old hairstyle trick still works well today.
Women then crowned their voluminous hairstyles with hats.
The general rule was that the bigger, more lavish, and more
extraordinary the hat, the higher the woman’s status. The brims were
enormous and decorated with extravagant creations, featuring feathers,
plumes, and silk flowers.
Fashion was just as severe as the hair buns, and very, very feminine. The
silhouette was shaped like a curvy S, and buttons adorned virtually every
garment. Hems reached just above the ankle. Sleeves were long (at the very
least 3/4-length) and corsets—which would soon be forgone—squeezed
tight while collars reached high. Those who could afford them wore lace
collars. A few years into the 1910s, collars became unbuttoned and less
chaste, leaving room for new influences. Empire cuts, draped décolletages
in delicate materials, bold patterns, and something as groundbreaking as
color set the new fashion agenda. Inspiration came from East Asia. This
elegant fashion spread like wildfire through the new ways of consumption.
Department stores were a novelty. There, hats and scarves joined the
company of something very new and bold: glass counters displaying
cosmetics. Makeup itself was nothing new, but to sell it this openly—
without the secretiveness that marked previous decades—was completely
revolutionary. The prevalent all-natural beauty ideal forced women to apply
makeup with great discretion. Both powder and blush were widely used,
but in moderation. And in secret.
