Cutting and Stripping Forces
Cutting and Stripping Forces
Cutting force is the force required to sever material, while stripping force is the force needed to separate a material, such as insulation,
from a base material, like a wire. Stripping force is often a percentage of cutting force, typically 10% to 20%, and should also include a
safety factor.
Cutting Force:
Cutting force is the force required to shear or cut through a material.
It's calculated by multiplying the perimeter of the cut area, the material thickness, and the material's shear strength.
Factors like lubrication, tooling surface finish, and raw material properties can also affect cutting force.
Stripping Force:
Stripping force is the force needed to detach a material, such as insulation, from a base material.
It's often calculated as a percentage of the cutting force, typically 10% to 20%, and requires a safety factor.
Stripping force is crucial for ensuring proper separation without damaging the underlying material.
Key Differences:
Action: Cutting force severs, while stripping force separates.
Application: Cutting force is used for cutting through materials, while stripping force is used for separating materials like insulation.
Relationship: Stripping force is often a percentage of cutting force and requires a safety factor.
Cutting force = Periphery length x Sheet thickness x Shear strength.
Stripping force = 10% to 20% of cutting force.
Strip layout in sheet metal forming refers to the arrangement of parts within a strip of material that will be punched or stamped into a
die, while nomenclature refers to the terminology used to describe elements of the strip layout. The goal of strip layout is to optimize
material usage, minimize scrap, and ensure efficient production.
Here's a breakdown of key concepts and terminology:
1. Strip Layout Basics:
Objective:
To design the arrangement of blanks (parts to be cut out) within a strip of sheet metal to maximize material utilization and minimize
scrap.
Application:
Used in progressive die design, where multiple stamping operations are performed in sequence.
Considerations:
Strip width, blank arrangement, scrap bridge, and the number of blanking operations.
2. Key Terms and Nomenclature:
Blank: A single part that will be cut out from the strip.
Strip: The sheet metal stock from which parts are blanked.
Scrap Bridge: The portion of material that remains between adjacent blanks or between the blank and the edge of the strip.
Front Scrap: The scrap bridge at the edge of the strip that is facing the operator.
Back Scrap: The scrap bridge at the edge of the strip that is away from the operator.
Advance: The distance the strip moves forward between successive strokes of the press during blanking or stamping.
Lead End: The end of the strip that enters the die first.
Tail End: The end of the strip that exits the die last.
3. Strip Layout Design Principles:
Scrap Minimization: Optimizing the spacing and arrangement of blanks to reduce scrap waste.
Material Efficiency: Maximizing the number of blanks that can be produced from a given strip width and length.
Production Efficiency: Ensuring that the strip can be processed efficiently through the progressive die.
Flexibility: Allowing for changes in part geometry or production requirements.
4. Examples of Strip Layout Elements:
A (Front Scrap): The scrap bridge at the front edge of the strip.
B (Bridge Thickness): The thickness of the scrap bridge between blanks.
C: The distance between corresponding points on adjacent blanks.
H (Part Width): The width of the blank.
L (Length of Strip): The overall length of the strip.
N (Number of Blanks): The number of parts that can be produced from a given strip.
W (Width of Strip): The width of the sheet metal strip.
Y (Scrap Recovery at End): The amount of scrap that can be recovered from the tail end of the strip.
Construction of dies
Dies, in manufacturing, are specialized tools used to shape, cut, or engrave materials, often with the aid of a press. They are typically
constructed from alloy tool steels and consist of at least two halves: a fixed half and an ejector half, allowing for the removal of the
finished part. Modern dies may also include movable slides, cores, or other sections to create intricate shapes, holes, and threads.
Key Components and Construction:
Fixed Die Half (Cover Half):
This half often contains sprues (holes for molten metal entry) and may have guide pins for precise alignment.
Ejector Die Half:
This half usually houses the runners (passageways) and gates (inlets) that route the molten metal to the cavity. It also includes ejector
pins to help remove the finished part from the die.
Die Shoes:
These are the base plates that all other die components are mounted on. They are typically made of cast iron or steel.
Guide Pins and Bushings:
These are crucial for maintaining the alignment of the die during press operation.
Punches:
These are the male features that work with the die steel to impart the desired shape to the material.
Die Steels and Cavities:
These are the opposite (female) shapes of the punches, also contributing to the shaping of the material.
Stripper Pad:
This component helps to remove the material from the punches after the press stroke.
Other Components:
May include stop blocks, pilots, gauges, and springs.
Types of Dies:
Single Cavity: Produces one component.
Multiple Cavity: Produces multiple identical parts.
Unit Die: Produces different parts at one time.
Combination Die: Produces several different parts for an assembly.
Progressive Die: Performs multiple operations (cutting, forming, etc.) in a single die set.
Transfer Die: Performs one operation per die set.
Mountings of punch
Punch mounting refers to the methods used to securely attach punches to a punch press or other machinery for use in manufacturing
processes like punching, blanking, and forming. These methods aim to hold the punch firmly while allowing for easy replacement and
ensuring accurate positioning. Common mounting techniques include flange fixing, dowel pin locating, bolt fixing, and specialized
holding inserts like those from FIBRO.
Here's a more detailed look:
Types of Punch Mounting Methods:
Flange Fixing:
The punch is attached to a flange, which is then secured to the punch press's ram or bolster.
Dowel Pin Locating:
Dowel pins are used to precisely align the punch with the die, ensuring accurate positioning.
Bolt Fixing:
Bolts are used to clamp the punch to a mounting plate or bracket.
Holding Inserts:
Specialized inserts like those from FIBRO provide quick and easy punch mounting, allowing for close placement of punches on tool
plates.
Ball Lock and Key Fixing:
These methods allow for quick punch mounting and removal, often used in automotive dies.
Punch Plate-Based:
This common method involves press-fitting the punch into a punch plate, making die production easier.
Factors Affecting Mounting Method Choice:
Accuracy Requirements:
Some applications, like precision work, require precise alignment, which may dictate the choice of mounting method.
Ease of Replacement:
Quick-change punches often utilize methods that allow for easy replacement and removal.
Punch Movement:
Certain methods are designed to prevent punch movement during operation.
Application Specifics:
Automotive dies, for example, may utilize ball lock or key fixing for ease of replacement.
Example: UniPunch System
The UniPunch system uses a C-frame casting to hold the punch and die in alignment with a pilot pin, allowing for multiple punches to
be mounted in a press to punch multiple holes in one stroke.
In essence, punch mounting is a critical aspect of punching and die design, ensuring that punches are securely and accurately positioned
for efficient manufacturing operations.
Marking and starting a hole for drilling without the bit “walking” out of alignment
Letter stamp sets
Glass-breaking tools used in rescue work and a common tool for a car thief.
Impact tool for hardness testing
Pin presses for electronic assembly
In many applications, such as hardness testing, the mechanism does not have an adjustment for impulse strength, and may require periodic
calibration checks.
2. Prick Punch
A prick punch is similar to a center punch but used for marking out. It has a sharper angled tip to produce a narrower and deeper indentation. The
indentation can then be enlarged with a center punch for drilling.
The tip of a prick punch is 40 degrees (the angle depends on what type of prick punch one is using). It is also known as a dot punch. This is also
made of high carbon steel; prick punch is also made hard and tempered.
3. Solid Punch
Solid punches are one-piece rod-shaped tools made of metal designed to be struck by a hammer. They are typically used to drive objects such as
pins or to form impressions on a workpiece. Solid punches can vary in diameter, length, and tip depending on the job to be performed. Below is a
brief description and characteristics of the most common solid punches.
Solid punch is used for boring holes in blacksmith and sheet metal operations. These are used in different measurements according to the jobs.
These are produced of high carbon steel, hardened, and tempered.
While using these in hot jobs it is essential to cool them in cold water. These are used in rough works because holes made with a solid punch are
not exactly according to measurements and are not clean.
4. Transfer Punch
A transfer punch is a punch (usually in an index set) of a specific outer diameter that is non-tapered and extends the entire length of the punch
(except for the tip). It is used to tightly fit the tolerances of an existing hole and, when struck, precisely transfer the center of that hole to another
surface.
It can be used, for example, to duplicate the hole patterns in a part, or precisely set locations for threaded holes (created by drilling and tapping) to
bolt an object to a surface.
5. Drive Punch
A drive punch is a tool for punching holes in leather and fabric. It is struck with a mallet on top of a cutting board to cut precisely-sized holes into
your work. These drive punches are high-quality steel, and they automatically empty themselves of punched material through the side barrel so
there’s never any clogging.
For driving out damaged rivets, bolts, and pins that are bound up in holes, you should use the drive punch. The drive punch has a flat face instead
of a point. The width of its face defines this type of punch, for example, 1/8-in or 1/4-in. The sides of a drive punch will taper all the way down to
the face, but sometimes you may need to use a punch with a straight shank. This is called the pin or drift punch.
In practice, you first use a drive punch to drive the pin or bolt that is to be removed until the hole blocks the progress of the punch.
6. Pin Punch
These types of punches are somewhat different from other punches. It is comparatively larger in length. Instead of being pointed in shape, these are
parallel. It is used for tight-fitting pins.
Pin punches can fully turn the rivets and pins out of a hole until they exit the hole, which cannot be done by the other punches. You then use a pin
punch to drive the bolt or pin the rest of the way until it is ejected from the hole. Be careful not to use a prick or a center punch to remove bolts or
pins from holes, as the point of the punch will spread the object making it even more difficult to remove.
7. Roll Pin Punch
Spring punches also called roll pin punches, are used to drive roll pins. Standard pin punches should never be used on a rolling pin. Because of the
hollow, thin wall construction of a rolling pin, a standard pin punch will often collapse, mar, or distort the end of the pin or be driven into, and
jammed inside, the hollow core of the roll pin.
When choosing a roll pin punch, select one that is no larger than the compressed diameter of the pin. If a punch is used that is larger than the pin,
the surrounding metal in which the pin is seated can be damaged. Also, a roll pin punch should not be used which is smaller than the compressed
diameter of the pin. If this occurs, it may be possible to drive the punch through the hollow center of the roll pin.
Roll pin punches are designed with a small projection in the center of the pin tip to support the circumference of the roll pin. The tips of roll pin
punches are not flat and should never be used on regular solid pins. If a roll pin punch is used on a solid pin, it will mar or mark the pin.
If the end of a roll pin punch is damaged or deformed, it should be discarded. It is virtually impossible to regrind the tip of the roll pin punch and
properly shape the center projection.
When using a roll pin punch, make sure the axis of the shank of the roll pin punch is in line with the axis of the roll pin. Do not can’t the roll pin
punch off to one side. When you strike the roll pin punch, hit it directly on the top of its head. If you strike the head of the roll pin punch at an
angle you may bend the shank.
8. Hollow Punch
It is a special type of a hardened steel punch with hollowness. It is used for cutting holes in metal, cardboard, fabric. These are available in
different sets for holes of different sizes. As they are hollow, the metal which is cut with them falls out through the grooves built on its side. Thus,
we can make a number of holes in little time and the holes are quite clear.
Hollow punches make clean holes in gaskets, leather, plastic, rubber, vinyl, and other soft materials, are used for leather craft, clothing, handbags,
jacket, webbing, canvas, and for any custom leather works.
9. Dot Punch
The dot punch is similar to a center punch but typically thinner, lighter, and having a sharper tip, used for marking the center of a hole that is to be
drilled, or (more generally) for making an indentation in the surface of an object. However, it is more accurate as the dot produced is smaller.
Both the center and dot punches are used in the same way. A ball pein hammer is used to tap the head of the punch and this delivers enough force
to the point of the punch to put a small indentation into the surface of the material.
PILOTS
In press tools, pilots are used as positioning tools, especially in progressive dies, to accurately align the material (strip) before each punch
operation. They ensure the strip is correctly positioned for the next step in the sequence, preventing errors and maintaining precision.
Here's a more detailed explanation:
Purpose:
Pilots help position the stock strip in relation to the die opening, especially in progressive dies where multiple operations are performed on the same
material strip.
How they work:
When the press cycle begins, the pilot engages with a pre-pierced hole in the strip, dragging it into the correct registry position before the punch
strikes.
Types:
There are different types of pilots, including those with bullet nose, conical stub nose, and angular nose profiles, each offering varying levels of
smoothness and strength during the piloting action.
Importance of accuracy:
The size of the pilot relative to the hole is crucial for accuracy. For example, a pilot that is too large might prevent proper engagement or damage the
hole, while a pilot that is too small may not provide sufficient guidance.
Application:
Pilots are commonly used in progressive dies where the strip needs to be moved precisely from one station to the next for subsequent operations,
such as piercing, forming, and blanking.