Equipment Pinking Shears: Cutting Tools
Equipment Pinking Shears: Cutting Tools
Equipment - supplies or tools needed for a special is a tool or an implement that is used in cutting of
purpose, the implements used in an operation or fabric or other materials.
activity . Pinking Shears - it gives an attractive zigzag cut
Material - anything that serves as crude or raw edges to the fabrics that prevents it from raveling.
matter to be used or developed. It's size is about 9-10 inches long.
Tool - anything used as a means of accomplishing a Scissors - these are shorter than shears and it is
task or purpose. used for shaping short curves, trimming and cutting
MEASURING TOOLS button-holes that are of equal size.
These are tools used in taking accurate body Shears - have the length 8-12 inches. Have sharp
measurements needed in drafting patterns, and metals used for cutting fabrics. The longer the
measuring fabrics to accomplish a well-made and shears the easier it works.
fitted garments. Seam Ripper - has a sharpened hook with one
French Curve - is used to connect the depth and pointed end and one with a protective ball this can
the curve shape of the neck hole and armhole of the also be use as a tool to cut buttonholes, and
pattern. stitches. The pointed end is very sharp, carefulness
Gauge - a device used in measuring short distances is advice when using the ripper.
ranging from 1/8 to 2" inches.
Hip Curve -is used for shaping the hips and skirt MARKING TOOLS:
hemline. It is a tool used to create the soft curves on are special tools used for transferring pattern
a pattern for making clothes. It allows the eye to markings on the fabrics.
shape from the waistline to the thigh area. it transfer all the little notations that appear on your
L - Square -is used to divide the garment parts into pattern, it tells us where to cut, fold, and
desired measurement. It gives a perfect squares sew.
and very useful in making straight lines. Function Pencil with Eraser - is used in making or designing
like a tape measure. There are two straight a pattern of a garment.
wooden, plastic or metal material connected Tailors Chalk - is a hardened chalk or soapstone
perpendicularly. used to make temporary guide marks on a garment
a. Longer arm measuring 24" inches long. that is being altered.
b. Shorter arm measuring 14 " inches Tracing Paper - is a type of paper that can be used
Meter Stick -a measuring stick one meter long that to transfer basic pattern markings to the fabrics.
is marked off in centimeters and usually millimeters. Tracing Wheel - is used to transfer seam lines, and
Meter stick is also called yard stick - it is a seam allowances from the pattern to the fabric.
straightedge flat wooden boards with markings at
regular intervals, used to physically measure lengths DRAFTING TOOLS
of up to a yard or more. drawing instruments and devices used in designing
Ruler - a long flat straight piece of plastic, metal, or patterns of a garment.
wood that you use for measuring things or drawing Pattern Paper - it is where the initial measurements
straight lines. and adjustments are created or drawn on paper as a
a. There is a ruler measuring 6" inches only. draft.
b. There is a ruler measuring 12" inches or 1 Measuring and some shaping tools and device are
foot. also used in drafting patterns for garments.
Tape Measure - or measuring tape is a common
measuring tool that is designed like a flexible ruler SEWING TOOLS:
that consists of a ribbon of cloth, plastic, fiber glass, are tools and devices that are actually used when
or metal strip with linear-measurement markings that sewing.
allows great length which can be carried in pocket Hand Needle - it is used in making temporary
and placed in a tool kit. It is also used in taking stitches and buttonholes.
measurements of body curves and corners.
Pins - used to hold 2 pieces of fabric materials i. Drawers - are used for storing or keeping
together. important sewing materials, especially those
Pin Cushion -a small firm cushion into which pins that do not fit sewing machine box.
are stuck when not in use, so they don't get lost and j. Tension Regulator- adjust the tightness and
for safety. looseness of stitches
Thimble -is a small hard pitted cup worn for k. Needle bar - holds the needle in place
protection on the finger that pushes the needle while l. Needle Clamp - holds and tighten the
doing hand sewing. needle
m. Spool pin - it holds the upper thread.
SEWING MATERIALS:
other materials that is used and needed in actual
sewing.
Fabric - A cloth produced especially by knitting,
weaving, or felting fibers which are used in
constructing garments
Thread - is a kind of thin yarn used for sewing;
SEWING EQUIPMENT:
is very important machine used in any sewing
activity, from construction, repairing altering or
recycling of clothes.
Sewing Machine - is a machine used to stitch fabric
and other materials together with thread. It was
invented by an English man Thomas Saint in 1790.
And it has greatly improved the efficiency and
n.
productivity of the clothing industry during the first
Industrial Revolution because it decrease the
Upper Parts of Basic Sewing Machine
amount of manual sewing work performed in
clothing companies. 1. Spool pin: It is fitted on top of the arm to
hold the reel.
a. Bed - a flat portion of the machine and 2. Thread guide: It holds the thread in position
beneath are the feed dog where it is
from the spool to the needle.
mounted, the shuttle and the lower thread
3. Tension disc: The two concave discs put
are placed.
b. Arm - the curve part of the head containing together with the convex sides facing each
mechanism for operating the needle. other. The thread passes between the two.
c. Treadle - where the feet rest while sewing. The tension of the thread is adjusted by a
d. Drive Wheel - it leads the balance wheel spring and nut which increases or decreases
through the belt connection. pressure.
e. Pitman Rod - holds the treadle to the bank 4. Take up lever: It is a lever fitted to the body
wheel crank
of the arm. Its up and down motion feeds the
f. Belt - connect the balance wheel to the drive
thread to the needle and tightens the loop
wheel
g. Balance Wheel - set the sewing machine in formed by the shuttle.
motion 5. Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the
h. Cabinet - holds the head of the machine needle at one end with the help of a clamp.
interlocking screw on the hinges.
Its main function is to give motion to the Lower parts of the sewing machine:
needle.
1. Left and right leg - support the cabinet of
6. Bobbin case: This moves into position to
the machine
catch the top thread and form the stitch as
2. Center Brace - braces and support the
the needle is lowered into the bobbin
middle part of the machine
chamber.
3. Drive Wheel - leads the balance wheel to
7. Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar to
the belt connection
hold the cloth firmly in position when
4. Drive Wheel Crank - it moves the band
lowered.
wheel
8. Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the
5. Dress Guard - protects the dress from the
presser bar for raising and lowering the
wheel
presser foot.
6. Steel Pitman Rod - holds the treadle to the
9. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of
bank wheel crank.
the stitch.
7. Treadle - it is where the feet rest while
10.Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used
sewing
for winding thread on the bobbin.
8. Treadle Rod - it is a long steel rod located at
11.Fly Wheel: When this is made to revolve, it
the middle of the treadle connecting the left
works the mechanism of the motion
part to the right part to keep the treadle in
12.Clutch or Thumb Screw: This is in the
motion.
center of the fly wheel and it engages and
disengages the stitching mechanism.
13.Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which
facilitates the removal of the bobbin case
without lifting the machine.
14.Needle Plate or Throat Plate: A
semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the
needle to pass through it.
15.Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth
fitted below the needle plate. It helps to
move the cloth forward while sewing.
16.Face plate: A cover which on removal gives
access to the oiling points on the needle bar,
9.
presser bar and take-up lever.
17.Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of Proper Sequence of Threading the Sewing
thread is placed on this at the time of bobbin Machine:
winder. 1. From spool pin, going through..
2. 1st, and 2nd thread guide passing …
3. Between metal disc of tension regulator,
going through…
4. Thread take up lever, passing through
5. 3rd thread guide, through…
6. lower thread guide, through…
7. threading the needle hole.
18.
Tabulation of Machine Troubles, Causes and -The bobbin top of machine
Suggested Solutions winder is not first and try the
released move the hand
Sewing Causes of Suggested causing wheel. If it is
Machine Trouble Solutions excessive still hard to
Trouble friction. turn, do the
same thing to
When the - bobbin case Remove the - Machine is
the bottom of
shuttle hook shuttle might bobbin case lubricated with
machine. Apply
jammed accumulates from the shuttle unsuitable
fresh sewing oil
loose pieces and remove the gummy oil.
immediately
of thread that jammed thread
after.
are slowing in it. Check if
the shuttle there are sort Loose - Upper - Always thread
movement up of dust and lint, stitches or threading is the upper
to a point the then clean the loops on not correctly thread with the
shuttle will inside part of underside of done. presser foot up
jam the shuttle. Put the material.
- the presser , make a
completely. a drop of
foot is not simple test by
sewing
completely lowering the
machine oil.
down. presser foot
Cut the part of
and pull the
jammed thread - upper
thread:
and return the tension too
bobbin in the tight or too - adjust tension
bobbin case loose. or screw
properly, and securely the
- bobbin nor
push it back to bobbin case.
properly
proper position
placed - check
in the shuttle.
placement of
bobbin
When - The belt is - Loosen belt
machine runs too tight, or by adjusting or
If the material - The needle - Adjust tension
heavy. has jumped
- replace belt wrinkles or thread tension setting
off from the
with a new one. the fabric is might too
pulley or hand
not moving at tight.
wheel. - Release the
all - Release
bobbin winder - The presser
-Damaged some pressure
and check for foot pressure
belt with on the presser
worn rubber is set too tight.
rubber residue foot.
tire.
at a specific
place - apply one
drop of
kerosene on
If the machine - The feed -remove any If the thread - incorrect - ensure
does not feed dog might lint, dust breaks size of the correct size of
or not running dropped. between and needle the needle
properly under the feed
- The presser - needle and
dog. You may
foot pressure thread are not
find some - tighten thread
is insufficient. properly
accumulated in the tension
placed and
- Lack of oil lint under the regulator.
set at the
needle plate. - wind thread
upper thread
-Oil the tension in the bobbin
machine once regulator. case properly.
a week - use good
- tension
regulator is quality and
If the needle -the needle is -ensure correct durable thread.
too loose
breaks inserted placement of
incorrectly, - needle on the - thread in the
the flat side of clamp. bobbin is not
needle is properly
- use
facing the placed.
appropriate
wrong position - kind of
size of the
- The needle needle to the thread used is
is not inserted thread. not of poor
all way up in quality.
- Use straight
the needle
needle.
clamp. If hand wheel - stop motion - tighten motion
- Change the turns but screw is not srew at
- The needle
bent needle to needle is not tightened. handwheel.
is too fine for
a new one. moving
the thread
used. If the stitches - incorrect - check the
- The needle skipped size of the needle size
is bent or its needle before sewing.
point is - tight upper - change the
damaged. tension needle
Shoulder - taken from the shoulder point across the Elements of Design:
back going to the other shoulder point.
1. Color - is the element of art that is produced
Front chest - taken from one's front beside the when light, strikes an object, which is
armpit to the other armpit. reflected back to the eye. It is one of the
Bust Distance - taken from nipple to nipple essential factor that is considered in
choosing the right color appropriate for your
Back width - taken beside the arm pit to the other
personality and that will make you look
armpit at the back
bigger or stouter, slimmer, taller or thinner. In
2. Circumferential Measurements - taken constructing a garment, combining colors
around the body parts determines if the person have good taste
and enough knowledge in what really suits
Head Girth or circumference - Measure from front
his/her complexion.
forehead passing though the back of the head going
back to the frontal head. Three Qualities of Color:
Bust line - taken around the fullest part of the bust. a. Hue - means the name we give to a color
(red, yellow, blue, etc.)
Waistline - taken around the smallest part of the
b. Intensity - refers to the strength and
torso
vividness of the color. Ex. we may describe
the color blue as "royal" (bright, rich, vibrant) Color Combination Commonly Used in
or "dull" (grayed). Garments:
c. Value -is lightness or darkness of a Monochromatic - uses one color of different values.
particular color. The terms shade and tint are
For example: A light violet with different shades of
in reference to value changes in colors. Ex.
darker violet dot designs on fabrics.
Light blue or dark blue.
Complimentary - uses two colors opposite each
Color that suits your complexion: other in the color wheel.
We Filipinos are known to have a brown or Orange and blue, complimentary colors
"kayumanggi" complexion. It is advice that : same approach to red-green complimentary
A girl who has a fair complexion can use light color color combination by pairing a pink top with mint
fabrics because it is pleasing to the eyes. Ex. Light green floral skirt.
green, blue, blue green and blue violet.
a. Analogous - uses two or more colors. These
A girl who has a dark complexion is appropriate to
colors are near each other in the color wheel.
use warm dull color fabrics, because dull colors are
An example of this is the combination of
invigorating. Ex. Pink, cream, purple, orange, tan (
blue-violet, with violet and red or yellow with
rust color ) and red. It gives a lightening effect on
yellow-green and green.
dark or brown skins.
b. Triadic - is any three colors that are of the
same distance on the color wheel.
Color Harmony in Clothing
To give an idea of what color combination suits you, blue-yellow-red triad in this elegant
have a quick view of the professional look.
Secondary Colors: when two colors from the 2. Lines - refer to the direction of the fabric designs
primary colors are combined it becomes secondary on a dress. These lines affects the height and body
colors. built of an individual. Lines creates design on the
fabrics.
a. Orange - yellow and red combined
Kinds of Lines on a garment:
b. Purple or violet - blue and red combined
Directional Line:
c. Green - blue and yellow combined
a. Horizontal Lined Dress
Intermediate Colors: when one primary color is
b. Vertical Lined Dress
mixed with secondary color it produces an c. Diagonal Lined Dress
intermediate color. d. Checkered Dress
e. Floral Design
a. yellow + green = yellow-green
b. blue + green = blue-green f. Dotted Dress Design
c. red + orange = red-orange g. Curve Dress Design
h. Brocken Lines Design
neckline also suits. Small V-neckline, especially
matched with puffed sleeves will also look good on
2. Structural lines - are found on necklines,
you.
armholes, hem-lines, darts, side seams, sleeves,
collars. Tucks, and pleats of garments.
Wide shoulders - choose upper body clothing with
3. SHAPES - it refers to the body curve and form of a V-neck, also with a deep oval décolletage. If your
a person. This includes the shape of the face, neck is nice, clothing with a low adherent collar will
neckline and full body or figure. suit you. Avoid wearing garments with a boat
neckline.
Different Shapes of Face
1. Oval - egg shaped; round on top and elongated at Important Tips to know:
the chin All kinds of necklines are becoming to this
shape. · Wide V-neck décolletage harmonizes
the silhouette, therefore it suits those
2. Round - it is a moonlike shape where neckline having narrow shoulders and wide hips
should be given extra careful consideration. (in this case do not forget to wear a bra
lifting up the breasts).
3. Heart shape - round at the top and slightly curved
· Blouses, shirts or dresses with a
at the chin. Fit to all kinds of necklines. narrow, not-deep V-neck is a good choice
4. Square - top head is equal with the jaw. Close if you have plump breasts and want to
neckline is advised. pay the attention of them.
· Deeper V-neck elongates the neck
5. Triangle- the top is wider than the ear part, going visually, while the oval neck perfectly
smaller to the chin. The use of wider neckline is masks too small chest.
recommended. · Woman whose neck is short and thick,
shouldn‘t wear clothes with round or boat
6. Diamond -widest at the cheekbone with a narrow shape necklines.
forehead. Your forehead and jaw lines are · Draped neckline suits on those having
approximately equal in width. Variety of styles work narrow shoulders, short neck and pears
but it must have a weight on the nape part to shape figure. Deep draped neckline
achieve visually lifts the breasts.
balance between your cheek bones and chin. · High collar doesn‘t suit everyone.
Clothes with such collar suits best to
SHAPES OF NECKLINES those whose shoulders are narrow, neck
Best neckline for your body and face shape is long and thin and fast shape is long.
Shoulder width equals hip width - strict shoulder line High-collar clothes should be avoided by
can be softened wearing upper clothing with a those having a thick face and wide
V-shape neckline which will visually elongate the shoulders.
neck.
Round sloping shoulders - Square neckline will 4. TEXTURES - selecting the texture of the fabrics
make your shoulders look wider and its line will for a dress is very important because rough texture
become more visible. Do not choose clothing with result to bulky effect while soft textures help give a
the V-shape neckline – it’s not for you. smooth flow of fabric material that follows or reveal
the shape of the body or figure.
Narrow shoulders - your narrow shoulders make
you look more wide wearing a blouse or dress with a
Principles of Design in Clothing
square neckline. Deep wide rectangular shape
1. Balance - refers to equal amount of weight from 5. Harmony - is achieved when all the elements and
the center of an arrangement or design. A garment principles of design work together and unity is
must be balanced to be visually pleasing. Balance is applied here. Unity is the underlying principle that
also the concept of visual equilibrium, and relates to summarizes all of the principles and elements of
our physical sense of balance. Balance can be design. It is also the coherence of the whole, the
achieved in one of two ways: symmetrically or sense that all of the parts are working together to
asymmetrically. achieve a common result; a harmony of all the parts
and at the end to form a successful design.
a. Symmetrical or Formal Balance - a dress
is said to be symmetrical or with formal Procedures on making an apron and head cap:
balance if both sides of the dress from the
1. Draft basic patterns for the apron and head
center have the same design.
cap accurately and correctly.
b. Asymmetrical balance or informal
2. Shrink the fabric for an hour, don't wrinkle
balance - the sides of a dress have different
just hang it to dry under the sunlight. Iron
designs from the center. It involves
placement of objects in a way that will allow before cutting.
objects of varying visual weight to balance 3. Lay - out the patterns on the fabric and pin
one another around a fulcrum point. To perpendicularly on the fabric to prevent them
achieve a more exciting, dramatic effect from moving.
asymmetrical or informal balance is advised 4. Add corresponding allowances for the
to use. different parts of the apron and head cap on
2. Proportion - is achieved when all parts of the the fabric.
garments are interrelated as to size, length and 5. Cut the fabric following the corresponding
width. added allowances lines carefully.
Standards of proportion change with fashion cycles 6. Pin and baste the bias tape all over the
along with the evolution in silhouette and line. The
apron. Securely sew the bias tape using
length and size of design features like pockets,
running stitches.
trimmings, surface decorations or parts of garments
7. Attach the string on the upper part of the
within the silhouettes should compliment to the
bust line going through the neckline.
whole dress.
8. Attach the string on the right and left
3. Rhythm - is the repetition radiation, and gradation waistline.
of designs in lines, shapes, colors and accessories 9. Pin and baste the pocket on the lower right
on the garment. part of the apron and securely attach with
it is the flow of movement that is necessary to running stitches.
create interest in a design and carry out the central 10.Pin and baste the top part of the head cup to
theme. the circumference part of the head cap then
secure with running stitches.
4. Emphasis - is where the eyes is carried to the 11.Attach the string all over the head cap part
most attractive part of the garment. It marks the using the bias tape then secure it with
locations in design that strongly draw the viewer’s
running stitches.
attention. A centre of interest should be related to t
12.Wash, iron and place all the finished sewn
he total structure of the garment. A focal point can
apron and head cap on the plastic envelop
be achieved by color accents, significant shapes or
with the evaluation sheet in it.
details, lines coming together, groups of details or
13.Submit it to your teacher for fitting and
contrast.
evaluation.
12. G - M = desired length
Pattern - in sewing and fashion design is the paper For head circumference divide by 4, then
or cardboard template from which the parts of a have pt.of reference A - B, draw a straight
garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out line then use a compass to create a round
and assembling (sometimes called paper patterns). shape for the top of head cap. Draw a
straight line following the head circumference
Patternmaking - or pattern cutting is the science
measurement + 1", then measure 3 & 1/2 " +
of designing patterns.
1" for width of the cap.
Basic Pattern - follows the natural lines and
Dotted lines represent the allowances
represents the basic dimensions of a figure, from
needed for side seams, hemlines and head
which all styles are based on. A custom-fitted basic
cap.
pattern from which patterns for many different styles
can be created is called a sloper (home sewing) or
block (industrial production).
Running stitch - is an even stitch that is used to
Style Pattern - a pattern made out of basic pattern join two layers together and is meant to be
with style and corresponding allowances. permanent.
10. G-K = 8" inches downward Invisible or Blind stitch - A stitch that is almost
invisible from the both sides. The needle passes
11. K - L = 1/4 hip 2
inside the fold of the hem, then emerges to catch
one or two threads, then back into the folded hem An apron is used to cover the front clothing of the
for the next stitch. cook while preparing the foods. In order to complete
the kitchen out fit, a head cap is adviced.
Step 2. Pin and baste the bias tape all over the
apron side seams and hemline.. Steps in Sewing a head Cap:
Step 3. Securely sew the bias tape using running Step 1 - divide the head cap circumference
stitches. measurement into 4and draw a straight line that will
serve as a part of diameter in one side of the circle.
Step 4: . Attach the string on the upper part of the
Then, from there, draw a circular line that will serve
bust line. as the top part of the head cap. Add 1/2" inch
Step 5: Attach the string on the right and left allowance on the fabric after transferring the original
waistline going through the neckline using the bias lines from the pattern.
tape. Step 2. Cut another fabric measuring your entire
Step 6. We are through with the 1st set of step. We head circumference measurement + 1" for the
will now prepare the pocket before the final length and approximately 3 & 1/2 " inches width for
the band that will be attached to the top part of the
attachment.
head cap.
Prepare and attach the Pocket/ Pockets
Step 3 Measure of your head cap circumference +
1. Cut out pattern for the pocket using a card board. 1" for the bias tape that will serve as decoration on
2. Lay -out the pattern on the fabric and add the top of the head cap. Measure of your head
corresponding allowances; circumference + 8 " both ends of the lower part .That
a. Top part - 1 ½” will be attach at the lower part that will serve as
b. Side part - 1/2 " adjustable string of the head cap.
c. Hem part - 1/2"
Step 4. Position the bias tape outside the lower part
3. Fold the edges, press and sew of the head band, in it .is 1/2 " inch allowance of the
a. turn and press under 1/4" on the edges of the band. Secure it with running stitches
pocket.
b. turn and press under 1/2 on the left and right side Take Note of the Following Safety Practices
of the pocket. While Sewing:
c. turn and press under 1 1/2" on the top edge of the
1. There should be enough light when sewing.
pocket. Fold 1" and the remaining 1/2" inward and
sew using running stitches. 2. Sit properly or be in correct posture while sewing
4. Attach the pocket on the lower part of the to avoid back pain.
waistline of the apron.
3. Use cutting shears for cutting the fabric, and
scissors for cutting threads.