instructables

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

by Core3D

When I wanted to build my own rst printer, I of course rel="nofollow">https://grabcad.com/library/laminated-

went with the Prusa I3 design. I joined a Makerspace so I prusa-i3-printer-1
could print the components to make it.
All components can be laser cut using 12x28 inch Acrylic
Turns out, Makerspace 3D printers are ckle and down sheet (3mm thick).
an awful lot. So instead of printing a 3D printer I decided
to Laser cut my rst printer. In e ect I’m using the In this instructable I will not go into the wiring of the
laminate printer method to create an FDM printer. Ramps 1.4 setup. That is covered in the followup
instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4
The embedded video will give you an impression of
what components are made up of. I've tried to accompany most steps with images in each
of the majors steps. If you get lost in the words, look at
You can download the entire model at: the images in the sequence their presented.

https://youtu.be/6Zkfug7OL5U

Step 1: Materials

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 1

Throughout the instructable I call out what parts and in materials that link to their source.
what quantities you need them. Here is the entire list of

M3 hex socket srew 6mm http://amzn.to/2Ds0F6C Bed spring leveling components http://amzn.to/2AZiVlZ

M3 hex socket srew 8mm http://amzn.to/2muGT2y Flexible Shaft Couplings 5mm to 8mm
http://amzn.to/2Dw1V96
M3 hex socket srew 10mm http://amzn.to/2Dw1V96
2-Pack - Linear Motion Rod 8 mm x 406mm Shaft
M3 hex socket srew 14mm http://amzn.to/2mtqxqN https://amzn.to/3eOU3nN

M3 hex socket srew 20mm http://amzn.to/2FyTCd8 Nema 17 1.7A (5 pack) http://amzn.to/2BsMuRb

M3 hex socket srew 25mm http://amzn.to/2Fyr3MR Idler http://amzn.to/2Dpv2gB

M4 hex socket srew 10mm http://amzn.to/2AXhKmf Gt2 Timing belt pulley 20 teeth http://amzn.to/2FwmTFb

M4 hex socket srew 40mm https://amzn.to/2JmOiv6 Printer Bed http://amzn.to/2DrCW6B

5/16 threaded rod http://amzn.to/2CXCo7n(or home Torsion springs http://amzn.to/2FAvJBQ

depot)
MK8 mount http://amzn.to/2mvz8ct
5/16 Nuts http://amzn.to/2EEEMAr(or home depot)
Mk8 Extruder http://amzn.to/2DxtzST
Acrylic from McMaster Car
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3632/=1b3zn Gt2 Timing belt http://amzn.to/2DwQbCV
0... 6 sheets of 12"x24''
Disclaimer: I am Amazon a liate. If you do want to
SCS8UU Linear Motion Ball Bearing support the work I put in these instructables, please
http://amzn.to/2BKukHh purchase parts through these links. I make a few bucks,
at most. Thx.
LM8UU Linear Ball Bearing http://amzn.to/2FvqR0S

Step 2: Laser Cut the Components

All of the items used as laminates to this printer are to the big parts to prevent displacement.
using 3mm acrylic, cut out of sheets of 12” x 24” 1/8"
thick Laser cut each DXF twice to get to the proper amount of
layers needed.
I purchased the acrylic from McMaster Car (item
8505K127 at $14.27/sheet) It looks like a lot of stu , but once that laser starts cutting
you can sit back, relax and enjoy the light show (Don't
The design comes with 3 DXF les. You will have to go look directly at the laser).
through whatever steps it takes to setup your Laser
Cutter to properly cut. Remember cut small holes prior

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 2

 View in 3D Download

https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FNY/P891/JCAUM2TV/FNYP891JCAUM2TV.dxf

View in 3D Download

https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F90/S7YM/JCAUM2TX/F90S7YMJCAUM2TX.dxf

Download

https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FN8/VYPR/K6X1LAEV/FN8VYPRK6X1LAEV.dxf

Step 3: Assemble Frame

The frame was designed to be 2 layers thick and was cut in half to accommodate the Acrylic sheet of 12”x24”. The two
halves are kept together with the smaller pieces.

Rectangles on top
Bottom items will speak for themselves.

For the connectors use M3 hex socket screws, 20mm and nut

For Laminates only use M3 hex socket screws, 8mm and nut

The supports that hold up the frame consists of 2 laminates each. One side has more holes in it, which can be used
optionally to attach the electronics. Pick a side if you choose to do so.

The supports slide into the frame and are connected with screws and nuts that t in the cross shapes cavities.

Use 20mm screws for the support connectors.

At this point you can also add the 320mm 5/16 screw rod with bolts, although it might need to move back or forth
depending on your Y axis.

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 3

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 4
Step 4: Assemble Y-Axis Rail

The Y-axis represents the bed and frame that moves the bed from back to front. This component contains both laser cut
laminates as well as quite a bit of hardware.

m3 25mm screw/nut for idler (1x)

m3 8mm screw/nut for idler and belt clamp (12x)
m3 10mm screw/nut for Name Clamp (4x)
m3 6mm for Nema 17 motor (4x)
m3 16mm screw/nut to connect Idler brackets and Z-Axis connector (6x)
Bed leveling spring components (4x)
Linear Rod 406mm (2x)
5/16 threaded rod 440mm (2x)
5/16 nuts (16x)
SCS8UU Linear Motion Ball Bearing (3x)
Linear Motion Rod 8 mm x 406mm Shaft (2x)
Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 5
 Nema 17 Stepper Motor (1x)
Gt2 Timing belt pulley 20 teeth (1x)
Nema 17 Corner Bracket (1x)
Idler (1x)
m4 40mm/nuts to connect the belt connectors (2x)
bed spring leveling components (4x)
m4 10mm screws to connect bed frame to bearings (12x)
Printer bed 220mmx220mm (heated or not)
GT2 Timing Belt Torsion Spring
GT2 Timing Belt

First assemble the front plates by connecting them with the 4 8mm screws (on 4 corners).

Do the same for the back plates and add the Idler bracket with 2 16mm Scews/nuts

Add the smooth rods to the back end

Add screw rods with 4 bolts on each rod that go between the front and back plates

Add the SCS8UU Linear Motion Ball Bearing onto the linear rods

Add Front plates and put bolts on the outside.

Add Idler between the idler brackets with the 25mm screw/nut

Add the Name 17 motor with 4 6mm screws

Add the gt2 20 teeth pulley to the motor shaft and visually line it up with the idler before fastening

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 6

Step 5: Assemble Y-Axis Bed

Add the bed frame to the three linear bearings using 12 8mm screws and nuts.
m4 10mm Also add the 2 m4 40mm screws to the center
of the bed frame When attaching the second end of the belt, add the little
clamps but don't tighten them until you've tightened
Stack the 10 belt connector plates with the two the belt.
laminates that have the holes for the belt at the bottom.
Any additional tightening can be done with additional
When attaching the timing belt, run it around the Name torsion springs.
17 wheel and Idler (on the opposite end) and it through
the provided holes on the bed connector, from the top Once the belt is added you can add the bed on top of
with the teeth down. When folding over the teeth should the bed frame with the Bed Spring leveling components.
meet each other.
At this point the construction of the Y Axis is completed.
Clamp the the two together with the small clamps with 2

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 7

Step 6: Assemble X Axis

The X axis will support the extruder and move from left to right. There is a lot of laminates involved with this axis as each
end needs to glide over the Z-axis and support the rods for the X-axis.

The following hardware is needed for the X axis

m3 30mm screw/nut for to connect Nema Laminates to Nema Motor and connect Idler end (13x)
M4 6mm screws to connect bed Extrusion Bracket to Bearings (6x)
Linear Motion Rod 8 mm x 406mm Shaft (2x)
Nema 17 Stepper Motor (1x)

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 8

 Gt2 Timing belt pulley 20 teeth (1x)
Idler (1x)
GT2 Timing Belt Torsion Spring
GT2 Timing Belt

All metal MK8 bracket

Unlike the Y Axis, the 8 mm rods will need to be cut to length to t between the The two leadscrews. The space available
form them to between is 340mm. Don't cut the rods any longer as it won't t. You can cut them a little shorter (1 to 5mm)
to be safe. You can always pad the socket to make it t.

There are two ends to this axis, one I refer to as the Nema End (which will hold a Nema Stepper motor) and the Idler End
which only support the Gt2 timing belt and an idler.

The laminates speci c to the Nema End can be recognized by the large hole with 4 holes next to them.

The laminates speci c to the idler end can be recognized by 5 screw holes and lack of large hole for nema.

Each end ts together like and lock each other in place. Arrange and connect the pieces together as seen in the image.
The main body has 9 layers.

1. Connect the 7 bottom layers rst. The square Gap on top will t the assembles Slider component.
2. The Slider component has 19 layers. Align the 16 pieces that can t around the LM8UU bearings.
3. There is a similar piece with a smaller hole at the bottom that lock in the bearings from the bottom.
4. On top you rst place the piece with the Hexagonal hole (that will t around a nut)
5. On top of that the laminate with 2 8 mm holes.
6. This entire assembly will t inside the gap of pieces from step 1
7. Finally cap o the main body with the two remaining big laminates that will lock in the slider piece.
8. Insert the 4 screws around the Nema hole and connect the Nema.
9. Insert 2 more screws in the remaining holes to tighten the laminates.

Repeat these steps for the Idler end. Make sure that on top of the rst layer you put the actual idler (use something like a
tooth pick to keep it in place while you lay on the other layers.

At this point the 3 bearing block can be added to the linear rods and inserted into both End components.

In the case of my build I used an full metal angle bracket to hold a MK8 extruder. Should you choose to use a di erent
type of extruder and or connector the following steps maybe di erent for your build.

The angle bracket use will connect to three Bearing blocks and is available from AlieExpress

There is a variant on Amazon that connects to only 2 bearing blocks, but is similar in the build.

connect the mount to the bearing blocks and insert two 25mm m3 screws around which the Timing belt is mounted.

When attaching the timing belt, run it around the Name 17 wheel and Idler (on the opposite end) and around the screws
extruding in the back of the extruder mount. When folding over the teeth should meet each other.

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 9

Clamp the the two together with the small clamps with 2 8mm screws and nuts. When attaching the second end of the
belt, add the little clamps but don't tighten them until you've tightened the belt. Any additional tightening can be done
with additional torsion springs.

At this point the entire X axis is completed and it can be mounted on the Z-Axis in the next step.

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 10

Step 7: Assemble Z Axis (both) and Mount the X Axis.

AT this point the entire frame, the Y Axis and X axis are completed and at this point we can construct both Z-axis on
which we mount the X-axis (need completion of this rst.

Hardware needed

M3 8mm screws (8x)

M3 25mm screws/nuts (8x)
m3 14mm screws/nuts (4x)
Linear Motion Rod 8 mm x 310mm Shaft (2x)
5/16 threaded rod 320mm (2x)

First stack 3 mount llers and attach the Nema Corner Bracket to the frame (do this for both sides).

Add 2 layers of Nema Brackets on top of the Corner Bracket (slide into gap in frame) attach with 14mm Screw/nut

Attach the Nema Stepper motors with 8 8mm screws

Attach the 5mm to 8mm couplers to the Nema shaft

The next steps will be a bit of a balancing act. You can choose to either:

add the screw rod and linear rods into the X axis assembly and delicately place all 4 rods into their appropriate places

Add the rods into place (won't be sturdy but can hold if careful) and slide on the X axis assembly.

Before adding the X axis assembly add the nuts to each screw rod (somewhere in the middle preferably same height).

Add the Adjustable Z-End stop assembly which consists of 4 lamites that t over the linear rod

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 11

The adjustable component is a 45mm screw, thumb nut and a ball pen spring

Cap the assembly o with the Top laminates that hold all 4 rods into place, attached to the Frame.

The next step will discuss adding the Y Axis assembly

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 12

Step 8: Adding the Y Axis Assembly to the 3D Printer

At this point the only thing missing is attaching the of the Y axis assembly touches the screw rod in the back
completed Y assembly to the Main Printer assembly of frame.

Take the Y Axis assembly and place it inside the frame. The nal step is to attach the laminate clamps around
the Screw bar and onto the Y axis assembly.
Make sure the two bolts on each rod are opened and on
each side of the frame. All that is left is to attach the MK8/MK7 Extruder and end
stops.
Lift the Y Axis assembly in on an angle do the extruding
screw rods go underneath the screw rod on the frame Little secret: the endstop are all attached with hot glue.
Up and running for 4 years and no issues.
Once in place tighten the bolts. Make sure the back plate

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 13

 https://youtu.be/6Zkfug7OL5U

Step 9: Conclusion

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 14

So there you have it. My very rst printer build all laid rel="nofollow">https://grabcad.com/library/timing-
out for you to build. This printer has been up and pulley-gt2-20-teeth-5mm-bore-2
running for some 4 years now and never caused me any
issues. It printed the rst parts of my Bigger CoreXY Micro Switch https://grabcad.com/library/mini-micro-
printer but still acts as my backup printer. switch-pcb-mount-1

Following components part of this design were re- LM8UU: https://grabcad.com/library/lm8uu-linear-

used/repurpased from 3rd party designs. Here is the list bearing-1
of used designs:
SC8uu https://grabcad.com/library/pillowblock-8mm-
Nema 17 Corner Bracket: sc8uu-1
https://grabcad.com/library/nema-17-l-bracket-1
Couplers: https://grabcad.com/library/coupler-5mm-to-
MK7 Extruder: 8mm-1
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39299
If you liked this check out my other instructables or visit
Timing Pulley GT2 (20 teeth, 5mm bore): my website at https://core3d.tech

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 15

For some reason the x axis linear rods are too long to fit in the frame, can I cut them shorter to fit
the frame?
If you left them at 406mm (16 inch) then yes. That was the length they sold them at (at the time).
The rods for the X-axis need to be cut to size to approximately 340mm (possibly cut maybe 1 or 2
mm shorter to it won't bind). I'll look back to the step for the X-axis and add "Cut to length" to it.
Thank you for your quick response, thats what i did just wanted to be sure.
also great design !

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 16

1) where should we put GT2 torsion spring?
2) how long LM8UU ?

Mine doesn't use the tension springs but if you do put them on, the spring should go in a location
where when traveling the bed or extruder it needs to be able to meet both sides (i.e. the spring
cannot run over the pulleys.

The link to the LM8UU are the correct ones (24mm). each side has two of them (you're showing
the lm8Luu L for long). Those aren't the ones I use.
Can you plz tell me the Printing capacity??

if by capacity you mean volume, it's 200mmx200mmx200mm

Can u plz show the working of this printer,,(just share a object pic done with this printer)

huh, this printer was built 5 years ago, prior to my online presence so there's not much of it at
work. Here's a link of it at work (non-printer related https://youtu.be/-VRpsYokLko), Here's one
were I had it working at the Milwaukee Maker Faire in 2018 (printed the Julia vase).
https://youtu.be/PzPZnWx_vdc.
Hey Core3D, thanks for this great design! I'm looking to fit Prusa's new MK52 bed in this frame.
With a size of 264x254mm, it should fit, I measured the inside of the frame to be 280mm across.
It has the same hole spacing as the heated bed you used, so it should be compatible, right?
Physically the bed would fit between the frame, but the travel room in the current setup will
prevent the nozzle from reaching the edges on the bed on the X-axis. The same goes for the Y-
Axis. the Y-Axis is easy to remedy by using longer rods (and belt) on the Y-axis. On the X-Axis
there is however not much travel to gained, other then widening the frame and getting longer X
axis rods.
Hi Core3D! Thank you for the great design.
I have decided to make this 3D printer and have laser cut the pieces but there seem to be some
error in design, maybe I am missing something.
The issue is between frame and supports, support pieces have 5 teeth that go into cutouts on
frame but frame only has 4 holes.
Am I missing something? What would be the best solution for this, cut out the holes on the frame
or shave of the teeth on support pieces?
Thanks for that. You are correct, I'm looking at it right now, my model in fusion 360 shows the
same error. On my end I will put out an updated frame dxf with the missing holes. The best
solution would be to add the hole to the frame but if you've already cut everything the easiest
would to be file/cut off the tabs. The screw is still there so it will hold the supports in place. I
apologize for the inconvenience.
Thanks for update. I cut off the tabs on the support piece.

Thank you so much for your instructable! I was able to construct this 3D printer for a class at my
college. For the enclosure I used another instructable, "DIY 3D Printer Enclosure".

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 17

That is so awesome. I gives me great pleasure to see some of my work implemented. I hope you
got a great grade.
Absolutely! I may have gone a little above and beyond the scope of the class, so yeah, with your
help it was an excellent grade!
Hey, do the tolerances allow to build this in 3mm acrylic and with metric threaded rods? Would be
nice, as imperial hardware is pretty expensive here in Germany ;)
Also the following company sells pre-cut laminates based on this design and they seem to use
3mm acrylic. Not sure they ever tested this out (I hope they would have)
http://store.thingibox.com/en/laser/400-3mm_laminated_3D_printer.html
That's a tough one. Some of the laminated pieces are stacked 17 high. 17x0.175 is enough to
add up to entire extra layer of 3mm acrylic (which is how you might get away with it). I looked at
some of the interlocking piece of the X axis and they would support 3mm. Those gaps where the
frame interlocks use 6.5mm holes with would leave 0.5mm wiggle room (might be much).

Good job, looks really cool.

I have a question, it's compatible with the original prusa parts? whats the distance of smooth and
lead screw of the z axis?

Thank you.
I used most of the original I3 plans but since I did some redesign I can gaurantee absolute
compatibility. distance between screw and rod (holes) are 19.4mm. Distance from rods to frame
about 37.4mm. You can download the entire design from grabcad.com
https://grabcad.com/library/laminated-prusa-i3-printer-1 for all the exact specs
So what is the total cost then?

With all items sourced from Amazon assuming mostly prime (you'd be left with a bunch of screws
and some other parts) it adds up to about $420
Also you'll still need to add controller board and power source.
Ramps 1.4 kit on amazon $38.99 http://amzn.to/2EVuk7X
Power supply 12V/30A $17.99 http://amzn.to/2FTmFs6
If you're patient and willing to order directly from China (via Aliexpress.com) you may be able to
do it for half that.
but you can buy a cheap printer for below £100 from china

Sure, I wouldn't stop you from doing that. I think this project is something you would do for the fun
of the project. Nobody can compete (on price) with the stuff from China. Like I said in a previous
reply, make sure you read the reviews, some of them you might want to avoid.

For only a couple hundred more than the printer in this instructable, you can buy a real Prusa I3
MK2 kit (https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/17-3d-printers) . You can't go wrong with that.
At that price is there any benefit to building this over buying something like the RepRap Prusa I3
V2 https://www.amazon.com/REPRAPGURU-RepRap-Printer-P...
Btw great project!!

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 18

I think you build a printer like this for the fun of building a printer. If you're just curious or
interesting in the printing end of 3D printers you would be better off buying a printer.

Read the customer reviews closely on some of these very cheap printers, some of these have a
dead on arrival rate that is staggering. What you see on Amazon btw is not a Prusa I3, like my
printer this is a Prusa I3 Derivative from China.

I have some 1/8 inch panels around so if you want to build this printer but don't have a laser
cutter at hand, you can buy them from Thingibox at http://store.thingibox.com/en/laser/400-
3mm_laminated_3D_printer.html and we will do the cut for free.
wow, that is excellent pricing

Do you know of any suppliers in the USA that might be offering a similar deal?

Sorry, I do not. For me this was a DYI project. The group above does ship internationally but I
have no clue how much they charge.
Core3D, why didn't you design this printer out of 6mm acrylic sheets? Wouldn't this save a lot of
screws?
For the Frame you could use 6mm acrylic (as for the acrylic used in the Y-axis assembly. The
Laser cutters I was working with at the time, were giving me a hard time with the 6mm, hence I
went with what worked at the time.
For the X-Axis components you'd be getting into trouble with 6mm sheets, as the 8mm Linear
rods are surrounded with 3x 3mm sheets. One 6mm laminate wouldn't be enough, two Laminates
(12mm) would be too much. Also the belt (6mm) would have an extremely tight fit using 6mm
sheet.
Is there any reason these can't be milled from carbon fiber?

I don't see why not. Be aware of the thickness of the material. Currently the holes you can "slide"
parts into assume a 3mm thick material. If you deviate from that you may have to up/lower the
number of slices and maybe adapt some of the cut out cavities.
There are a few ways to deal w. that. I can undercut slots or re-draw in CAD.

Absolutely. I'm guessing, carbon fiber would make it look pretty slick. A lot stronger too.

Truly a piece of art. Thanks for sharing.

Wow, thank you. That type of feedback makes it all worth doing and sharing.

That's scary impressive. I'm not even gonna try, by I salute you!

Thank you. Actually once the original design of the laminates was done, it was easy. Just out the
pieces together.
What a fantastic Instructable. Thank you for sharing you work and knowledge. Cheers, JAYTEE

Thank you and you’re welcome

Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only): Page 19