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 SOME DISHES FOR “BABY.”
No particular diet can be recommended for the infant that is so
unfortunate as to be deprived of its natural nourishment. What agrees with
one is quite unsuccessful with another. Different kinds of diet can only be
tested. Children’s little illnesses are often the result of food which, in their
case, is unassimilating and indigestible; and it is often better to attempt a
change of food than to resort to medicines.
City babies generally thrive poorly with cow’s milk. Some can stand it,
however, diluting it with a third water, adding a slight thickening of rice,
well boiled and mashed, and also a little sugar. Others thrive well on goat’s
milk, when no other kind will answer. The Borden condensed milk serves
like a charm with very young infants in cold weather; but in warm weather
its excessive sweetness seems to cause acidification when taken. In New
York, where it may be obtained fresh, without sweetening, I have heard that
it is more satisfactory.
Some babies are ruddy and strong with an oatmeal diet (oatmeal
porridge strained and mixed with the milk). I have already mentioned this
as especially successful in Ireland and Scotland. However, in the warm
climate of many of our cities in summer I have known the oatmeal diet to
cause eruptions or boils. It is almost a crime to undertake to bring up
children artificially in warm summer climates. Many a heart-ache is caused
when, failing to supply the natural food, nothing would seem to agree with
the baby.
Pap.
Put a little butter into a saucepan for the purpose of keeping the mixture
from sticking. When it is hot, pour in a thin batter of milk and flour, a little
salted; stir well, and boil gently about five minutes; then add a little sugar.
If the child is over three months old, an egg may be mixed in the batter for a
change.
Wheat-flour and Corn-meal Gruel.
Tie wheat flour and corn meal (three-quarters wheat flour and one-
quarter corn meal) into a thick cotton cloth, and boil it three or four hours.
Dry the lump, and grate it as you use it. Put on the fire cream and water
(one part cream to six parts water), and when it comes to a boil, stir in some
of the grated lump, rubbed to a smooth paste with a little water. Salt it
slightly. Judgment must be used as to the amount of thickening. For a young
infant, the preparation should be thin enough to be taken in the bottle; if the
child is older, it may be thicker. If the child is troubled with constipation,
the proportion of corn meal should be larger; if with summer complaint, it
may be left out altogether.
Roasted Rice
boiled and mashed is a good infant diet in case of summer complaint.
Corn-meal Gruel
is undoubtedly the best relaxing diet for infants, and may be used instead of
medicine.
FOOD FOR INFANTS WITH WEAK DIGESTIVE ORGANS.
Oatmeal Gruel (Dr. Rice, of Colorado), No. 1.
Add one tea-cupful of oatmeal to two quarts of boiling water, slightly
salted; let this cook for two hours and a half, then strain it through a sieve.
When cold, add to one gill of the gruel one gill of thin cream and one tea-
spoonful of sugar. To this quantity add one pint of boiling water, and it is
ready for use.
Beef (Dr. Rice), No. 2.
Scrape one-half pound of beef, and remove all the shreds; add one-half
pint of water, and three drops of muriatic acid. Let it stand one hour; then
strain it through a sieve, and add a small portion of salt.
 HOW TO SERVE FRUITS.
The French deserve much praise for their taste in arranging fruits for the
table. They almost invariably serve them with leaves, even resorting to
artificial ones in winter.
In the following arrangements, I have some of their dainty dishes in
mind.
Strawberries.
The French serve large fine strawberries without being hulled.
Pulverized sugar is passed, the strawberry is taken by the thumb and finger
by the hull, dipped into the sugar, and eaten. The Wilson strawberry,
however, which seems to be our principal market strawberry, certainly
requires stemming, and deluging with sugar before serving.
Mixed Fruits.

Always choose a raised dish for fruits. Arrange part of the clusters of
grapes to fall gracefully over the edge of the dish. Mix any kind of pretty
green leaves or vines, which may also fall, and wind around the stem of the
dish. Although the colors of the fruits should blend harmoniously, and the
general appearance should be fresh and négligé, arrange them firmly, so that
when the dish is moved there will be no danger of an avalanche.
Water-melons.
 A water-melon should be thoroughly chilled; it should be kept on the ice
until about to be served. It may be simply cut in two, with a slice cut from
the convex ends, to enable the halves to stand firmly on the platter. When
thus cut, the pulp is scooped out in egg-shaped pieces with a table-spoon
and served; or it may be cut as shown in figure, when slices with the rind
attached may be served.
Cantaloupe Melons.

Put it into the refrigerator until just before serving, to become thoroughly
chilled; cut it as in figure here given, removing the seeds. Arrange four or
five grape leaves on a platter, upon which place the melon.
Currants.
 Serve currants in rows of red and white, with a border of leaves around
the outside, as shown in annexed cut.
Currants or Other Fruits Iced.
Beat the white of an egg barely enough to break it. Dip in selected
bunches of fine currants, and while moist roll them in pulverized sugar.
Place them on a sieve to dry. This makes a refreshing breakfast dish.
Plums, cherries, grapes, or any other fruit may be iced in the same way.
How they eat Oranges in Havana.
A fork is pierced partly through the centre of an orange, entering it from
the stem side; the fork serves for a handle, which is held in the left hand,
while with a sharp knife the peel and thin skin are cut off in strips from the
top of the orange to the fork handle; now, holding it in the right hand, the
orange can be eaten, leaving all the fibrous pulp on the fork.
Fresh Peaches.
Choose large, fresh, ripe, and juicy peaches; pare, and cut them into two
or three pieces. They should be large, luscious-looking pieces, not little
chipped affairs. Sprinkle over granulated sugar, put them into the freezer,
and half freeze them; this will require about an hour, as they are more
difficult to freeze than cream. Do not take them from the freezer until the
moment of serving, when sprinkle over a little more sugar. Serve in a glass
dish. Canned peaches may be treated in the same manner.
Pine-apples.
When pine-apples are picked and eaten fresh in their own climate, they
seem to dissolve in the mouth, and the fibrous texture is hardly perceived.
Not so at our tables. Here I have sometimes partly resolved that they are not
much of a luxury after all, especially when the slices are so tough as to
require the knife and fork. They are better cut into dice, saturated with
sugar, and piled in the centre of a glass dish, with a row à la Charlotte of
sponge-cake slices, or of ladies’-fingers around the sides.
 BEVERAGES.
Punch (Mrs. Williams).
Rub loaf-sugar over the peels of six lemons to break the little vessels and
absorb the ambrosial oil of the lemons. Then squeeze out all the juice
possible from six oranges and six lemons, removing the seeds; add to it five
pounds of loaf-sugar (including the sugar rubbed over the peels) and two
quarts of water, with five cloves and two blades of mace (in a bag); simmer
this over the stove about ten minutes, making a sirup.
This sirup will keep forever. It should be bottled and kept to sweeten the
liquors, whenever punch is to be made.
Mix then one pint of green tea, a scant pint of brandy, one quart of
Jamaica rum, one quart of Champagne, and one tea-cupful of Chartreuse.
When well mixed, sweeten it to taste with the sirup; pour it into the punch-
bowl, in which is placed an eight or ten pound piece of ice. Slice three
oranges and three lemons, removing the seeds, which put also into the
punch-bowl.
Milk Punch (Mrs. Filley).
Ingredients: Four quarts of Jamaica rum, three quarts of water, five pints
of boiling milk, three pounds of loaf-sugar, twenty-four lemons, two
nutmegs.
Cut thin slices, or only the yellow part of the rinds of the twenty-four
lemons. Let these thin parings and the two grated nutmegs infuse for
twenty-four hours in one quart of the rum. It should be put in a warm place.
At the end of the twenty-four hours, add to the juice of the twenty-four
lemons (freed from seeds) the water, sugar, rum, and also the rum
containing the lemon-peel and nutmeg. Put all into a large vessel. When the
sugar is dissolved, add the five pints of boiling milk while the mixture is
being stirred all the time. It will curdle, of course. Then cover it, and let it
stand still one hour, when filter it through a bag, until it is as clear and
bright as a crystal. It may take three or four hours. Pale rum should be used.
This quantity will make enough to fill about one dozen quart bottles. Cork
them well, and keep them standing. It may be used at once, but it will not be
in perfection until it is a year or two old. It will keep forever. The bag may
be made three-cornered with a yard square of rather coarse Canton flannel.
This punch is nice to serve with mock-turtle soup, or it may be used for
making Roman punch. Like sherry, it is a convenient beverage to offer, with
cake, to a lady friend at any time.
Roman Punch.
Make or purchase lemon ice. Just before serving, put enough for one
person at table into a saucer or punch-glass, and pour over two table-
spoonfuls of the milk punch, made as in the last receipt. A course of Roman
punch is often served at dinner parties just after the roast. There is no better,
cheaper, or easier way of preparing it than this.
Claret Punch.
Cut up the yellow part of one lemon, and let it soak for three or four
hours in half of a quart bottle of claret; add then the other half of the wine.
Sweeten to taste, and add one bottle of soda. Put a clove into each glass
before pouring out the punch.
Eggnog.
Ingredients: Six eggs, half a pound of sugar, half a pint of brandy or
whisky, three pints of cream whipped to a froth.
Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together until it is a froth; add
the brandy or whisky, next the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and
then the whipped cream.
Sherry, Claret, or Catawba Cobblers.
Put four or five table-spoonfuls of the wine into a glass with half a table-
spoonful of sugar; one or two thin slices of orange or lemon may be added.
Fill the glass with finely chopped ice. Now pour this from one glass to
another once or twice, to mix well. Put then two or three strawberries, or a
little of any of the fruit of the season, for a garnish. The beverage can not be
completed without the addition of two straws.
Lemonade.
Rub loaf-sugar over the peels of the lemons to absorb the oil; add to the
lemon-juice the sugar to taste. Two lemons will make three glassfuls of
lemonade, the remainder of the ingredients being water and plenty of ice
chopped fine.
Tom and Jerry.
Ingredients: Four eggs and six large spoonfuls of powdered sugar beaten
together very light (a perfect froth), six small wine-glassfuls of rum, and
one pint of boiling water.
Stir the water into the mixture, and then turn it back and forth into two
pitchers, the pitchers being hot, and the glasses also hot. Grate nutmeg on
the top of each glass, and drink immediately.
Mint-julep.
Bruise several tender sprigs of fresh mint in a tea-spoonful of sugar
dissolved in a few table-spoonfuls of water. Fill the glass to one-third with
brandy, claret, sherry, or any wine preferred, and the rest with finely
pounded ice. Insert some sprigs of mint with the stems downward, so that
the leaves above are in the shape of a bouquet. Drink through a straw.
Milk Punch and Egg-and-milk Punch (see page 326).
Blackberry Cordial.
Ingredients: Two quarts of blackberry juice, two pounds of loaf-sugar,
half an ounce of powdered cinnamon, half an ounce of powdered allspice,
half an ounce of powdered nutmeg, quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves.
Boil it all together two hours. Add, while hot, one pint of fourth-proof
pure French brandy. Bottle it.
Currant Wine.
To two quarts of the currant-juice (after the currants are pressed) add one
quart of water and three and a half pounds of sugar. Let it stand in an open
jar until it stops fermenting; then draw it off carefully, bottle, and cork it
securely.
Raspberry Vinegar (Miss Nellie Walworth).
Pour one quart of vinegar over three quarts of ripe black raspberries in a
china vessel. Let it stand twenty-four hours, then strain it. Pour the liquor
over three quarts of fresh raspberries, and let it infuse again for a day and
night; strain again, and add one pound of white sugar to each pint of juice.
Boil twenty minutes, skimming it well. Bottle when cold. When it is to be
drunk, add one part of the raspberry vinegar to four parts of ice water.
 SUITABLE COMBINATION OF DISHES.
There are dishes which seem especially adapted to be served together.
This should be a matter of some study. Of course, very few would serve
cheese with fish, yet general combinations are often very carelessly
considered.
Soup.
Soup is generally served alone; however, pickles and crackers are a
pleasant accompaniment for oyster-soup, and many serve grated cheese
with macaroni and vermicelli soups. A pea or bean soup (without bread
croutons) at one end of the table, with a neat square piece of boiled pork on
a platter at the other end, is sometimes seen. When a ladleful of the soup is
put in the soup-plate by the hostess, the butler passes it to the host, who cuts
off a thin wafer-slice of the pork, and places it in the soup. The thin pork
can be cut with the spoon. Hot boiled rice is served with gumbo soup. Well-
boiled rice, with each grain distinct, is served in a dish by the side of the
soup-tureen. The hostess first puts a ladleful of soup into the soup-plate,
then a spoonful of the rice in the centre. This is much better than cooking
the rice with the soup.
Sometimes little squares (two inches square) of thin slices of brown
bread (buttered) are served with soup at handsome dinners. It is a French
custom. Cold slaw may be served at the same time with soup, and eaten
with the soup or just after the soup-plates are removed.
Fish.
The only vegetable to be served with fish is the plain boiled potato. It
may be cut into little round balls an inch in diameter, and served in little
piles as a garnish around the fish, or it may be the flaky, full-sized potato,
served in another dish. Some stuff a fish with seasoned mashed potatoes,
then serve around it little cakes of mashed potatoes, rolled in egg and bread-
crumbs and fried. Cucumbers, and sometimes noodles, are served with fish.
Beef.
Almost any vegetable may be served with beef. If potato is not served
with fish, it generally accompanies the beef, either as a bed of smooth
mashed potatoes around the beef, or à la neige, or as fried potato-balls (à la
Parisienne), or, in fact, cooked in any of the myriad different ways. At
dinner companies, beef is generally served with a mushroom-sauce.
However, as any and all vegetables are suitable for beef, it is only a matter
of convenience which to choose. Horse-radish is a favorite beef
accompaniment.
Corned Beef
should be served with carrots, turnips, parsnips, cabbage, or pickles around
it.
Turkeys.
Cranberry-sauce, or some acid jelly, such as currant or plum jelly, should
be served with turkey. Many garnish a turkey with sausages made of pork
or beef. Any vegetable may be served with a turkey; perhaps onions, cold
slaw, turnips, tomatoes, and potatoes are the ones oftenest selected.
Chickens.
Fried chickens with cream dressing are good served with cauliflower on
the same dish, with the same sauce poured over both. A boiled chicken is
generally served in a bed of boiled rice. A row of baked tomatoes is a pretty
garnish around a roast chicken. It is fashionable to serve salads with
chickens.
Lamb
is especially nice served with green pease or with spinach; cauliflowers and
asparagus are also favorite accompaniments.
Pork.
The unquestionable combination for pork is fried apples, apple-sauce,
sweet-potatoes, tomatoes, or Irish potatoes. Pork sausages should invariably
be served with apple-sauce or fried apples. Thin slices of breakfast bacon
make a savory garnish for beefsteak. Thin slices of pork, egged and bread-
crumbed, fried, and placed on slices of fried mush, make a nice breakfast
dish; or it may garnish fried chickens, beefsteak, or breaded chops.
Mutton.
 The same vegetables mentioned as suitable for lamb are appropriate for
mutton. The English often serve salad with mutton.
Veal.
Any vegetable may be served as well with veal as with beef. I would
select, however, tomatoes, parsnips, or oyster-plant.
Roast Goose,
apple-sauce, and turnips especially.
Game.
Game should invariably be served with an acid jelly, such as a currant or
a plum jelly. Saratoga potatoes, potatoes à la Parisienne, spinach, tomatoes,
and salads, are especially suitable for game.
Cheese
is served just before the dessert. It is English to serve celery or cucumbers
with it. Thin milk crackers or wafer biscuits (put into the oven just a
moment before serving, to make them crisp) should be served with cheese;
butter also for spreading the crackers, this being the only time that it is
usually allowed for dinner. Macaroni with cheese, Welsh rare-bits, cheese
omelets, or little cheese-cakes, are good substitutes for a cheese course.
Sweet-breads.
Sweet-breads and pease—this is the combination seen at almost every
dinner company. They are as nice, however, with tomatoes, cauliflowers,
macaroni mixed with tomato-sauce or cheese, or with asparagus or
succotash.
Roman Punch
is generally served as a course just after the beef. It is a refreshing
arrangement, preparing one for the game which comes after. In England,
punch is served with soup, especially with turtle or mock-turtle. One often
sees Roman punch served as a first course just before the soup.
Cantaloupe Melons
are served just after the soup at dinner. This is especially French; however,
this melon is more of a breakfast than a dinner dish. The water-melon is
served the same time as fruit at dinner.
 SERVING OF WINES.
At dinners of great pretension, from eight to twelve different kinds of
wines are sometimes served. This is rather ostentatious than elegant. In my
judgment, neither elegance nor good taste is displayed in such excess. Four
different kinds of wine are quite enough for the grandest occasions
imaginable, if they are only of the choicest selection. Indeed, for most
occasions, a single wine—a choice claret or Champagne—is quite
sufficient. In fact, let no one hesitate about giving dinners without any wine
at all. Proper respect for conscientious scruples about serving wine would
forbid a criticism as to the propriety of serving any dinner without it. Such
dinners are in quite as good taste, and will be just as well appreciated by
sensible people; and it makes very little difference whether people who are
not sensible are pleased or not.
If three wines are served, let them be a choice sherry with the soup,
claret with the first course after the fish, and Champagne with the roast. If a
fourth is desired, there is no better selection than a Château Yquem, to be
served with an entrée. If Champagne alone is used, serve it just after the
fish. Many serve claret during the entire dinner, it matters not how many
other varieties may be served; others do the same with Champagne—for the
benefit of the ladies, they say. I believe, however, Champagne is considered
with more disfavor every day. In England, punch is served with turtle or
mock-turtle soup. A receipt may be found for one of their best punches (see
page 339). I consider it, however, a decided mistake to serve so strong a
beverage, especially at the beginning of a dinner. A fine ale is often served
with the cheese-and-cracker course at family dinners, when wine is not
served.
As a rule, I would say that the white wines, Sauterne, Rhine, etc., are
served with raw oysters, or just before the soup; sherry or Madeira, with the
soup or fish; Champagne, with the meat; claret, or any other of the red
wines, with the game. Many prefer claret just after the fish, as it is a light
wine, and can be drunk instead of water. If still another wine is added for
the dessert, it is some superior sherry, port, Burgundy, or any fine wine.
Very small glasses of liqueurs, such as maraschino and curaçoa, are
sometimes served at the end of a dinner after coffee.
 In France, coffee (café noir) is served after the fruit at dinner, a plan
which should be generally followed at dinner parties at least. It is always
well to serve cream and sugar with coffee, as many prefer it.
Proper Temperature in which Wines should be Served.
Sherry should be served thoroughly chilled.
Madeira should be neither warm nor cold, but of about the same
temperature as the room.
Claret should be served at the same temperature as Madeira, never with
ice; it should remain about forty-eight hours standing, then decanted, care
being observed that no sediment enter the decanter.
Champagne should either be kept on ice for several hours previous to
serving, or it should be half frozen; it is then called Champagne frappé. It is
frozen with some difficulty. The ice should be pounded quite fine, then an
equal amount of salt mixed with it. A quart bottle of Champagne well
surrounded by this mixture should be frozen in two hours, or, rather, frozen
to the degree when it may be poured from the bottle.
Treatment of Wines.
Connoisseurs on the subject of wine say much depends upon its
treatment before it is served; that it is invariably much impaired in flavor
through ignorance of proper treatment in the cellar; and that a wine of
ordinary grade will be more palatable than one of better quality less
carefully managed. They say wine should never be allowed to remain in
case, but unpacked, and laid on its side. Above all, wine should be stored
where it is least exposed to the changes of temperature.
All red wines should be kept dry and warm, especially clarets, which are
more easily injured by cold than by heat. Consequently, on account of the
rigor of our winters, clarets are better stored in a closet on the second floor
(not too near a register) than in a cellar. Champagnes and Rhine wines stand
cold better than heat, which frequently causes fermentation. The warmer
sherry, Madeira, and all spirits are kept, the better.
Choice of Brands.
Champagne.—Perhaps the choicest brands of Champagne are Pomméry
(dry, supposed to mean less sweet), Giesler (sweet), Veuve Cliquot (sweet),
and Roederer (sweet). The best of the cheaper Champagnes are Charles
Roederer, Heidsick, Montebello, and Krug.
Claret.—Choicest brands: Châteaux La Rose, Château La Tour, Château
Lafitte, or Château Margeaux. Best cheaper brand, St. Julien.
Sauterne.—Best: Château Yquem, La Tour Blanche. Best cheaper, Haut-
Sauterne.
Burgundy.—Best brands: Clos Vougeot, Chambertin, Chablis, and Red
Hermitage.
Sherry.—Best brand, Amontillado.
Hock.—Best brands: Steinberg Cabinet and Marcobrunner. Best
sparkling wine, Hochheimer.
The American dry wines are most excellent, and might be more
patronized by those who know no other wine than that of foreign
manufacture. The Missouri Catawba and Concord wines are especially
good; so are some of the California wines. The Ohio Catawba is quite
noted.
Bill-of-fare Table.
Bills of fare can be easily made by selecting more or less dishes, and
serving them in the order indicated in the table. The dishes are to be
garnished as explained in receipts.
1st Course.—Raw oysters, little clams, Roman punch.
2d Course.—Soup (potages): any kind of soup or soups.
3d Course.—Hors-d’œuvres (cold): sardines, pickled oysters, cucumbers, radishes,
preserved herrings, anchovies, cold slaw. These dishes are considered as appetizers, and
are served just after the soup. It is a French custom. Melons are served as a course after
soup also.
4th Course.—Fish (poissons): any kind of fish or shell-fish.
5th Course.—Hors-d’œuvres (hot). The hot hors-d’œuvres are the light entrées, such as
croquettes, all kinds of hot vols-au-vent, or patties (not sweet ones, however), sweet-
breads, brains, etc.
6th Course.—Relevés: the relevés or removes, are the substantial dishes. Roast joints, i.
e., of beef, veal, lamb, mutton, or venison, roast or boiled turkeys or chickens, fillet of
beef, braised meats, ham, sometimes game.
7th Course.—Roman punch.
8th Course.—Entrées: cutlets, all kinds of vols-au-vent, or patties (not sweet); sweet-
breads, fricassees, scollops, casseroles, poultry or game en coquille, croquettes, salmis,
 blanquettes; any of the meats, or game made into side-dishes.
9th Course.—Entremêts: dressed vegetables served alone, such as cauliflower, asparagus,
artichokes, corn, spinach, boiled celery, string-beans (haricots verts), or French pease
on toast, etc., macaroni, dressed eggs, fritters.
10th Course.—Rôtis: game of any kind.
11th Course.—Salade: any kind of salad; a plain salad is often served with the game.
12th Course.—Cheese, macaroni dressed with cheese, cheese omelet, cheese-cakes;
cheese and salad are often served together.
13th Course.—Entremêts, sweet: any kind of puddings, jellies, sweet fritters, sweet
pastries, creams, charlottes, etc.
14th Course.—Glaces: any thing iced; ice-creams, water ices, frozen puddings, biscuits
glacés, etc.
15th Course.—Dessert: fruit, nuts and raisins, candied fruits, bonbons, cakes, etc.
16th Course.—Coffee, and little cakes, or biscuits (crackers).
 TO PREPARE COMPANY DINNERS.
It is very simple to prepare a dinner served à la Russe, as it matters little
how many courses there may be. If it were necessary to prepare many
dishes, and to have them all hot, and in perfection at the same minute, and
then be obliged to serve them nearly all together, the task might be
considered rather formidable and confusing. But with one or two assistants,
and with time between each course to prepare the succeeding one, after a
very little practice it becomes a mere amusement.
The soup, or the stock for the soup, and the dessert, should be made the
day before the dinner.
A bill of fare should be written, and pinned up in the kitchen. Every
thing should be prepared that is possible in the early part of the day; then,
after the fish, chickens, birds, etc., are dressed and larded (if necessary),
they should be put aside, near the ice. If sweet-breads are to be served, they
should be larded, parboiled, and put away also. The salad (if lettuce) should
be sprinkled with water (not placed in water), and put in a cool, dark place
in a basket, not to be touched until the last three minutes.
The plates and platters for each course should be counted, examined, and
placed on a table by themselves. However, the arrangement of the dishes
was explained in the chapter on setting the table.
After this, the kitchen should be put in order, and the tables cleared of all
unnecessary things. Then every thing needed for the courses to be cooked
should be placed in separate groups at the back of a large table, so that there
may be no confusion or loss of any thing at the last minute. If there are
sweet-breads, have them egged and bread-crumbed; if pease are to be
served with them, place them in a basin at their side, properly seasoned. If
there is macaroni with cheese, have the proper quantity desired already
broken on a dish, with a plate of grated cheese and a tin cup, with the
necessary amount of butter to be melted, side by side. If there is a fillet of
beef to be baked and served with a mushroom-sauce, have the fillet in the
baking-pan already larded, the mushrooms in the basin in which they are to
be cooked, at the side; also the piece of lemon and the spoonful of flour
ready. The stock will be in the kettle at the back of the stove. By-the-way, in
giving a fine dinner, there should always be an extra stock-pot, separate
from the soup, at the back of the stove, as it is excellent for boiling the
sweet-breads or the macaroni, and making the sauces, etc.
If a simple salad of lettuce is to be served, have the oil, vinegar, pepper
and salt, and the spoonful of finely chopped onion, in a group all ready. If a
Mayonnaise dressing is to be served, that should be made in the morning.
Look at the clock in the kitchen, and calculate the time it will take each
dish to cook, and put it to the fire, so that it will be finished “to a turn” just
at the proper minute.
During dinner, one person should attend to placing out of the way all the
dishes brought from the dining-room, and, if necessary, should wash any
spoons, platters, etc., which may be needed a second time. She should know
beforehand, however, just what she is to wash, as every one must know
exactly her own business, so that no questions need be asked at the last
moment. The cook can attend to nothing but the cooking, at the risk of
neglecting this most important part.
As the course just before the salad is sent into the dining-room, begin to
make the salad, having every thing all ready. First, pick over the lettuce-
leaves, wash and leave them to drain, while you prepare the dressing. It
should just be ready when its turn comes to be sent to table.
If the dinner company is very large, and there are many dishes, the
cooking of them may be distributed between two persons, and perhaps the
second cook may use the laundry stove; but with a little practice and the
one or two assistants, one cook can easily prepare the most elaborate dinner,
if it is only properly managed before the time of cooking. She should, of
course, never attempt any dish she has not made before. A bain-marie is
very convenient for preserving cooked dishes, if there is some delay in
serving the dinner.
Of all things, never on any occasion serve a large joint or large article of
any kind on a little platter, as nothing looks so awkward. Let the platter
always be at least a third larger than the size of its contents.
I give several bills of fare. They are long enough and good enough for
any dinner party. Guests do not care for better or more, if these are only
properly cooked. They can be easily prepared in one’s own house, and this
is always more elegant than to have a list of a hundred dishes from a
restaurant.
 A Winter Dinner.
Oysters on the half-shell.
Amber soup.
Salmon; sauce Hollandaise.
Sweet-breads and pease.
Lamb-chops; tomato-sauce.
Fillet of beef, with mushrooms.
Roast quails; Saratoga potatoes.
Salad: lettuce.
Cheese; celery; wafers.
Charlotte-russe, with French bottled strawberries around it.
Chocolate Fruit Ice-cream.
Fruit.
Coffee.

The same bill of fare in French is as follows:

Menu.
Huîtres.
Consommé de bœuf clair.
Saumon; sauce Hollandaise.
Ris de veau aux petits pois.
Côtelettes d’agneau à la purée de tomate.
Filet de bœuf aux champignons.
Cailles grillées aux pommes de terre.
Salade.
Fromage; céleri.
Charlotte-russe aux fraises.
Plum-pudding glacé.
Fruits.
Café.

This is a bill of fare seen very often at dinner parties. It is not difficult to
prepare, as there are only five of the courses which are necessarily prepared
at dinner-time. The oyster course is very simple, and may be placed on the
table before the guests enter the dining-room. This soup may be made the
day before, and only reheated at the time of serving. The Saratoga potatoes
may be made in the morning; and if the charlotte-russe is not purchased at a
restaurant, it may be made the day before. So, after the quails are broiled or
roasted, the cook has nothing more to do but to make the salad, which is an
affair of three minutes, and the coffee, for which she has a long time, the
coffee having been ground and in readiness in the coffee-pot two or three
hours before dinner. The four last courses before the coffee are easily
purchased outside. The cheese might be a Neufchatel or a Roquefort. The
charlotte and the ice-cream can come from the confectioner’s. The fruit is
on the table during the dinner as one of the decorations.

Dinner Bill of Fare.

Roman punch.
Giblet soup.
Little vols-au-vent of oysters.
Smelts; tomato-sauce.
Scolloped chickens (en coquille); Bechamel sauce.
Saddle of venison; potatoes à la neige.
Breasts of quails in cutlets, with French pease.
Salad of lettuce.
Cheese omelet.
Pine-apple Bavarian cream.
Vanilla ice-cream, and ginger preserve; little cakes.
Fruits.
Coffee.

Menu.
Punch à la Romaine.
Bouchées d’huîtres.
Les éperlans frits; sauce tomate.
Coquilles de volaille à la Bechamel.
Selle de venaison à la purée de pommes de terre.
Filets de cailles aux petits pois.
Salade de laitue.
Omelette au fromage.
Le Bavaroix.
Glace à la crème de vanille.
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