THE COMPLETE

OUTDOOR BUILDER
UPDATED EDITION

FROM ARBORS TO WALKWAYS 150 DIY PROJECTS

CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION

Planning
Building Materials
Lumber
Metals & Plastics
Cast Blocks
Natural Stone
Concrete
Mortar
Estimating & Ordering Materials
Basic Tools
Power & Rental Tools
Masonry Tools
Fasteners & Hardware
Codes & Courtesies
Measuring
Challenges

Walkways, Steps & Patios

Design Considerations
Patio & Walkway Plans
Layout & Surface Preparation
Edging
Loose Rock Landscape Path
Stepping Stone Landscape Path
Sandset Brick Walkway
 Poured Concrete Walkway
Decorative Concrete Path
Mortared Brick Over a Concrete Path
Boardwalk Deck on a Slab
Timber Garden Steps
Flagstone Garden Steps
Sandset Brick Patio
Cobblestone Paver Patio
Circular Paver Patio
Flagstone Patio
Creating a Permeable Subbase
Spaced Masonry Pavers
Concrete Slab Patio
Mortared Paver Patio

Decks
Deck Building Codes
Building a Deck: A Step-by-Step Overview
Installing a Ledger
Locating Post Footings
Digging & Pouring Footings
Installing Posts
Installing Beams
Hanging Joists
Laying Decking
Building Stairs
Deck Railing Basics
Floating Octagon Island Deck
Deck Benches
 Deck Skirting

Fences & Walls

Fence & Wall Materials
Wood Panel Fences
Picket Fence
Post & Board Fences
Split Rail Fence
Virginia Rail Fence
Wood Composite Fence
Vinyl Panel Fence
Ornamental Metal Fence
Chain Link Fence & Gate
Bamboo Fence
Invisible Dog Fence
Patio Wall
Outdoor Kitchen Walls & Countertop
Dry Stone Wall
Interlocking Block Retaining Wall
Timber Retaining Wall
Stone Retaining Wall

Yard & Garden Structures

Arbor Retreat
Patio Enclosure
Patio Arbor/Trellis Enclosure
Adding a Trellis to an Arbor
Under-deck Enclosure
Runoff Gutters
Sun Porch
 DIY Gabled Greenhouse
Freestanding Kit Greenhouse
PVC Hoophouse
Metal & Wood Kit Sheds
Lean-to Tool Bin

Treehouses & Play Structures

Open-air Treehouse
Enclosed Treehouse
Playground Safety
Precut Playground Kit
DIY Playset
DIY Swingset
Classic Tree Swing
Skateboard Ramp
Bocce Court

Outdoor Furnishings & Accessories

Deck Planters
Privacy Screen
Mailbox Stand
Porch Swing
Porch Swing Stand
Simple Potting Bench
Compost Bin
Backyard Firepit
Classic Garden Bridge
Cold Frame Box
Jumbo Cold Frame
Resources
Photo Credits
Metric Conversions
Index
INTRODUCTION

I n this book, the third edition

of Black & Decker The
Complete Outdoor Builder,
you’ll find all the classic, time-
tested material from the last
edition—project information
that over the years helped
hundreds of thousands of
homeowners transform the yard
and landscape into meaningful
and useful space for fresh-air
living. With this edition you’ll
also find important text and
photography updates that keep
classic projects relevant for
today’s homeowners. We also
have dropped some projects that were of limited relevance to
homeowners today, replacing them with many new projects to
reflect new building materials and practices, as well as current
homeowner interests. There were enough new projects that we even
had to expand the size of the book to include them all.
The result is an encyclopedic reference ideal for the homeowner
who wants a one-stop reference for all information relevant to the
yard, landscape, and outdoor living. Combined with Black &
Decker The Book of Home How-To, these two books provide a
concise yet remarkably comprehensive reference for home-
improvement information and instructions. Many homeowners will
need nothing more than these two books, while others will find this
book and its sister volume to be perfect introductions to a lifetime
of satisfying home DIY practice.
Like earlier editions, The Complete Outdoor Builder is
organized in a logical structure, from basics to accents and
accessories. The first few chapters—Planning; Walkways, Steps &
Patios; Decks; and Fences & Walls—deal with the landscape
elements commonly known as hardscape. These elements include
the structural bones of a landscape—the elements that closely
parallel the structural elements of the house itself. These chapters
deal with the framing, the walls, and the floors of your landscape.
These are remarkably complete chapters, offering in-depth
information on a diverse range of hardscape choices.
Later chapters then systematically treat the landscape add-ons,
providing information and projects for various patio enclosures and
sheds; for a variety of garden-related structures; for play and
recreation projects, such as children’s swing sets and play
structures; and for easy-to-build outdoor furnishings and
accessories to elevate to decks, patios, and landscapes to truly
unique and personalized spaces.
Once again, you’ll find the presentation of this background
reference information and project instructions to be uniquely
helpful to do-it-yourself application. The information is
exhaustively complete and the photography demonstrates projects
and construction steps with utter clarity. Even if (or especially if)
you’re a beginner, these are projects you can successfully complete
if you simply practice a little diligence and patience.
Start making your outdoor dreams a reality now.
PLANNING

H omeowners no longer
think of their yards as
great expanses of lawn, but as
outdoor living spaces.
Permanent outdoor structures
can add to the beauty and
function of these outdoor rooms.
For example, a deck can provide
additional space for entertaining
or relaxing, a wall can provide
privacy and texture, and a walkway or path can unify areas.
But before you can begin building, you have to organize your
ideas and create a plan for materials, tools, inspections, measuring,
and construction. Proper planning will help you create an outdoor
project that is beautiful now and will last for years to come—an
important consideration, since landscaping contributes about 30
percent to your home’s total value.
This opening section will provide you with all the information
you need in order to plan and design the projects of your choice.
We’ll look at new and standard materials for outdoor projects—
including wood, metal, plastic, manufactured and natural stone, and
concrete—and show you how to estimate and order supplies. You
will find information on basic and specialty tools and a discussion of
the common types of hardware and fasteners used for outdoor
projects. We’ll also review the basics of building codes, including
permits and inspections. And to ensure you get the results you want,
we’ll show you the techniques you’ll need to design your own
projects.
By following these planning strategies, you will save time and
money and enjoy your outdoor home for years to come.

IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Building Materials
• Lumber
• Metals & Plastics
• Cast Blocks
• Natural Stone
• Concrete
• Mortar
• Estimating & Ordering Materials
• Basic Tools
• Power & Rental Tools
• Masonry Tools
• Fasteners & Hardware
• Codes & Courtesies
• Measuring
• Challenges
BUILDING MATERIALS

T he building materials you choose should reflect both the

function and the appearance of your outdoor project. Materials
impact not only the style, but the durability, maintenance
requirements, and overall cost of a project. Wood, stone, and brick
are traditional favorites, but the versatility and ease of installation
you get with PVC vinyl, metal, and concrete make them attractive
options for certain applications.
 LUMBER
Wood remains the most common building material in outdoor
construction, and it is usually less expensive than stone or brick. Its
versatility lends itself to just about any project, from the plain and
practical to the elegant and ornate. It is ideal for decks and
walkways, fences and retaining walls, pergolas and screens, outdoor
furniture, and of course, outbuildings. And it is beautiful, blending
with most architectural styles. It looks especially attractive in
settings surrounded by trees.
Most home centers and lumberyards carry a wide selection of
dimension lumber, as well as convenient preassembled fence panels,
posts, pickets, rails, balusters, floorboards, stringers, and stair
railings. Inspect all lumber for flaws, sighting along each board to
check for warping, twisting, or loose knots. Boards used for
structural parts should have only small knots that are tight and
ingrown. Inspect the end grain also. Lumber with a vertical grain
will cup less as it ages. Return any boards with serious flaws.
Framing lumber—typically pine or pressure-treated pine—comes
in a few different grades: Select Structural (SEL STR), Construction
(CONST) or Standard (STAND), and Utility (UTIL). For most
applications, Construction Grade No. 2 offers the best balance
between quality and price. Utility grade is a lower-cost lumber
suitable for blocking and similar uses but should not be used for
structural members. Board lumber, or finish lumber, is graded by
quality and appearance, with the main criteria being the number and
size of knots present. “Clear” pine, for example, has no knots.
The most important consideration in choosing lumber is its
suitability for outdoor use. Select a wood that is not prone to rot or
insect attack. Three types are generally recommended: heart cedar,
heart redwood, and pressure-treated lumber. Redwood and cedar are
attractive, relatively soft woods with a natural resistance to moisture
and insects—ideal qualities for outdoor applications. “Heart” or
“heartwood” varieties will be identified on the grade stamp. In both
redwood and cedar, heartwood has better resistance to decay than
lighter-colored sapwoods. Western red cedar (WRC) or incense
cedar (INC) for decks should be heartwood (HEART) with a
maximum moisture content of 15 percent (MC15).

Wood is the most common, and arguably the most versatile, of

building materials. Carefully choose lumber that is appropriate for
your project.
 Pressure-treated pine is stronger and more durable than redwood
or cedar and is more readily available and less expensive in many
areas. Although this lumber has a noticeable green color due to its
preservative, the wood can either be stained or left to weather to a
pleasing gray.
Plywood designated as exterior-grade is made with layers of
cedar or treated wood and a special glue that makes it weather-
resistant. Always cover exposed plywood edges to prevent water
intrusion.
Some homeowners shy away from pressure-treated lumber due to
the chemicals used to treat it. Despite popular fears, the chemicals in
pressure-treated pine do not easily leach into the soil, nor are they
easily absorbed through the skin. In fact, it can be argued that
pressure-treated lumber is actually a good environmental choice
because it lasts longer in projects, thereby reducing the harvest of
new trees. When using pressure-treated lumber, however, take some
common-sense precautions: avoid prolonged skin contact by
wearing gloves and protective clothing, and avoid breathing the dust
by wearing a particle mask.
Apply a coat of sealer-preservative or staining sealer to all sides of
outdoor structures. Make sure sealer is applied to all end-grain. Even
pressure-treated lumber is vulnerable to moisture and rot.

If you live in an arid climate, such as in the Southwest, you can

use untreated pine lumber because wood will not rot if its moisture
content is less than 20 percent. However, it’s always a good idea to
use pressure-treated lumber for deck posts or any other framing
members that are in contact with the ground.
Teak and white oak are hardwoods usually reserved for top-of-
the-line outdoor furniture. These woods have a dense cell structure
that makes them resistant to water penetration. However, because
these woods are expensive, they generally aren’t practical to use for
large structures, such as decks or fences. They are better suited for
accent pieces, such as benches or large planters.
Remember that although treated woods do resist rot, they will not
last indefinitely without regular maintenance. They should have a
fresh coat of stain or sealer every two years to maintain durability
and appearance. Sealing cut edges of lumber—including pressure-
treated wood—will prevent rotting of the end grain.

Pressure-treated lumber stamps list the type of preservative and

the chemical retention level, as well as the exposure rating and the
name and location of the treating company.
Cedar grade stamps list the mill number, moisture content, species,
lumber grade, and membership association. Western red cedar
(WRC) or incense cedar (INC) for decks should be heartwood
(HEART) with a maximum moisture content of 15% (MC15).
 METALS & PLASTICS
Plastic and aluminum products have become popular alternatives to
traditional outdoor building materials because they are low
maintenance, versatile, and easy to install. Though these materials
are typically more expensive than wood and other alternatives, their
durability makes them attractive options.
Plastics are now available in several colors, and they can be used
in most applications where wood is appropriate. They can be found
in fencing and timbers for use in decks, walkways, fences, and
arbors. PVC vinyl and fiberglass-reinforced plastic (FRP) are
becoming popular choices for fencing and decking materials. Many
styles and sizes are available, and they are strong, versatile, and
require no maintenance. Materials are often sold as kits, making
installation easy. Before choosing PVC, check manufacturers’
specifications on expansion and contraction variances to see if it is
suitable for your project.
Composite materials blend together wood fibers and recycled
plastics to create a rigid product that, unlike wood, will not rot,
splinter, warp, or crack. These boards can be cut to size with a
circular saw and do not require painting or staining.
Metal is often used in outdoor applications, such as in fencing
and gates. Aluminum offers a sturdy, lightweight, waterproof
material that is available in a variety of designs, ranging from the
simple to the elaborate. Availability may be limited, so check with
local building centers. Galvanized chain-link steel has long been a
popular choice for fencing, because it is relatively maintenance free
and can be used to create a secure outdoor wall at a reasonable price.
Options such as vinyl-coated mesh and color inserts can increase
privacy and boost style. Traditional wrought iron, though more
expensive and less common today, is used for fencing, railings, and
patio furniture to add a touch of elegance.
Copper pipe is a unique and unexpected material that is well
suited to temperature swings and water exposure, making it ideal for
outdoor use. This metal is inexpensive and available at nearly any
home center or hardware store.
Although many of these materials may be more expensive
initially, they often carry lifetime warranties, which can make them
more economical than wood over time. Before choosing any
alternative building material, check on restrictions with your local
building department.
Metals and plastics are replacing more traditional materials, as they
have minimal maintenance and allow environmentally conscientious
consumers to use recycled products.
 CAST BLOCKS
Manufactured stone is often designed to resemble natural stone, but
it offers distinct advantages over the real thing. Greater uniformity
makes installation easier, and it is often less expensive than natural
alternatives.
Although poured concrete isn’t as attractive as natural stone, new
masonry techniques help it rival natural stone for visual appeal.
Brick, concrete, and glass block are available in a growing variety of
sizes and styles, providing the flexibility to build distinctive,
reasonably priced outdoor structures. Many of these products are
well-suited to do-it-yourselfers, because their weights are
manageable and installation is easy.
Decorative concrete block can be used to make screen walls and
is available in many colors. A decorative block wall is one of the
most economical choices for a stone landscape wall.
Concrete paver slabs, available in several shapes and sizes, can
be used for laying simple walkways and patios. They are available in
a standard finish, a smooth aggregate finish, or can be colored and
molded to resemble brick. Concrete paver slabs are relatively
inexpensive and quite easy to work with. They’re usually laid in a
bed of sand and require no mortar. Their surface is generally
finished so the smooth gravel aggregate is exposed, but they are also
available in plain pavers and aggregate.
Paver bricks resemble traditional kiln-dried clay bricks, but are
more durable and easier to install. Paver bricks are available in a
variety of colors and geometric shapes for paving patios, walkways,
and driveways. Many varieties are available in interlocking shapes
that can be combined with standard bricks to create decorative
patterns, such as herringbone and basket weave. Paver bricks have
largely replaced clay bricks for landscape use and can be set into a
bed of sand for patios and driveways, where mortar is not required.
Edging blocks are precast in different sizes for creating
boundaries to planting areas, lawns, loose-fill paths, and retaining
walls.

Brick and concrete block are available in a growing variety of sizes

and styles, allowing you to build distinctive outdoor structures.
 NATURAL STONE
Natural stone is one of the finest building materials you can use. It
offers beautiful color and texture, along with unmatched durability
and elegance, making it a classic building material for landscape
floors, ornamental walls, retaining walls, and walkways. Because of
its beauty, it is also a choice material for decorative features, such as
rock gardens, ponds, fountains, and waterfalls.
These virtues come at a price, however: Natural stone is one of
the more expensive building materials you can select, and it can be
heavy and difficult to work with.
Natural stone includes a wide range of materials, from
microscopic sands to enormous boulders and carefully cut granite,
marble, limestone, slate, and sandstone. It is sold in many forms, so
you’ll have to choose what type, form, texture, and shade to use for
your project.
Fieldstone, sometimes called river rock, is any loose stone
gathered from fields, dry river beds, and hillsides. It is often used to
build retaining walls, ornamental garden walls, and rock gardens,
where it creates an informal, natural look. When split into smaller
pieces, fieldstone can be used in projects with mortar. When cut into
small pieces, or quarried stone, fieldstone is called cobblestone, a
common material in walks and paths.
Fieldstone is stone gathered from fields, dry river beds, and
hillsides. It is used in wall construction.
Flagstone is large slabs of quarried stone cut into pieces up to 3"
thick. It is used in walks, steps, and patios.

Ashlar, sometimes called wall stone, is quarried stone—such as

granite, marble, or limestone—that has been smooth-cut into large
blocks, ideal for creating clean lines with thin mortar joints. Cut
stone works well for stone garden walls, but because of its expense,
its use is sometimes limited to decorative wall caps.
Flagstone is large slabs of sedimentary rock with naturally flat
surfaces. Limestone, sandstone, slate, and shale are the most
common types of flagstone. It is usually cut into pieces up to three
inches thick, for use in walks, steps, and patios. Smaller pieces—
less than 16 inches square—are often called steppers.
Veneer stone is natural or manufactured stone cut or molded for
use in nonload-bearing, cosmetic applications, such as facing
exterior walls or freestanding concrete block walls.
 Rubble is irregular pieces of quarried stone, usually with one
split or finished face. It is widely used in wall construction.
Each type of stone offers a distinctive look, as well as a specific
durability and workability. Often the project dictates the form of
stone to use. Ask your local stone supplier to suggest a stone that
meets your cost, function, and workability needs.
NOTE: You may find different terms used for various types of
stone. Ask your supply yard staff to help you.
A stone yard is a great place to get ideas and see the types of stone
that are available. This stone yard includes a display area that
identifies different types of stone and suggests ways they can be
used.
 CONCRETE
Poured concrete has long been a favorite for driveways, walkways,
and patios because of its exceptional strength, but new tinting and
surface finishing techniques give concrete a decorative look that
makes it attractive for landscaping. It’s much less expensive than
natural stone, and because it’s poured while in a semi-liquid state, it
can be formed into curves and other shapes, such as landscape ponds
or fountains. Using simple tools, you can even finish concrete to
simulate brick pavers or flagstone.
Concrete is made up of a mixture of portland cement, sand,
coarse gravel, and water. Premixed bags of dry concrete are
available at home centers and are easy and efficient to use.
Mix concrete in a wheelbarrow for smaller projects, or rent a
power mixer to blend larger amounts of cement, gravel, sand, and
water quickly. Buy ready-mixed concrete for large jobs.
Timing and preparation are the most important factors in working
with concrete. Concrete will harden to its final form, regardless of
whether you have finished working with it. Start with smaller-scale
projects until you’re comfortable working with concrete. A concrete
walkway is a good starter project. Recruit helpers when you’re ready
to take on a large project.
Ingredients for mixing your own mortar include portland cement,
sand, and water. For high temperature, add refractory mix.
Premixed concrete products contain all the components of
concrete. Just add water, mix, and pour.

To mix concrete ingredients in a wheelbarrow, use a ratio of 1 part

portland cement (A), 2 parts sand (B), and 3 parts coarse gravel (C).
 MORTAR
Masonry mortar is a mixture of portland cement, sand, and water.
Ingredients, such as lime and gypsum, are added to improve
workability or control “setup” time.
Every mortar mixture balances strength, workability, and other
qualities. Make sure to use the mortar type that best suits your
needs:
Type N is a medium-strength mortar for above-grade outdoor use
in nonload-bearing (freestanding) walls, barbecues, chimneys, soft
stone masonry, and tuck pointing.
Type S offers high-strength mortar for exterior use at or below
grade. It is generally used in foundations, brick-and-block retaining
walls, driveways, walks, and patios.
Type M is a very high strength specialty mortar for load-bearing
exterior stone walls, including stone retaining walls and veneer
applications.
Glass Block Mortar is a specialty white Type S mortar for glass
block projects. Standard gray Type S mortar is also acceptable for
glass block projects.
Refractory Mortar is a calcium aluminate mortar that does not
break down with exposure to high temperatures; it is used for
mortaring around firebrick in fireplaces and barbecues. Chemical-set
mortar will cure even in wet conditions.
To mix mortar, always read and follow the manufacturer’s
specifications on the mortar mix package.
ESTIMATING & ORDERING MATERIALS

W hether pouring a small slab or building an elaborate

archway, it is important to estimate the dimensions of your
project as accurately as possible. This will allow you to create a
complete and concise materials list and help eliminate extra
shopping trips and delivery costs.
Begin compiling a materials list by reviewing your building
plans. These plans should include scaled plans that will make
estimating easier.
Once you have developed a materials list, add 10 percent to the
estimate for each item. This will help you manage small oversights
and allow for waste when cutting.
The cost of your project will depend upon which building
materials you choose. But because some materials may not be
readily available in your area, plan your projects and place orders
accordingly. Lumber, stone, manufactured stone, and alternate
materials, such as metals and plastics, can vary widely in price. It’s
unfortunately true that the most attractive building materials are
usually the most expensive as well.
In addition to lumber, fasteners, hardware, hand tools, and power
tools, many home centers also carry masonry tools and materials,
such as concrete, mortar, and stucco mix, typically in premixed
bags. Consider the scale of your project before buying concrete or
stucco by the bag, however. For large projects, you may want to hire
a ready-mix supplier to deliver fresh concrete.
Local brick and stone suppliers will often help you design your
project and advise you about estimating materials, local building
codes, and climate considerations.

If you plan on working with specialty or alternative materials,

such as vinyl fencing or composite decking, many home centers will
have a select range of styles and sizes onhand. Contacting
manufacturers directly will lead to greater choices of products, and
you will be able to place an order directly with them or be directed
to a retailer near you.
Local building suppliers can be a great asset to do-it-yourselfers.
The staff can offer professional advice, and yards often carry the
tools and other materials necessary to complete your project. Often
you can receive help in designing your project and advice on
estimating the materials, applicable local building codes, and
regional climate considerations.
Many centers also offer coordinating services for landscapers and
contractors to work with you. You may also find class offerings in
masonry construction or other techniques to help you develop the
skills to complete your project.

How to Estimate Materials

Sand, gravel, topsoil (2" layer) surface area (sq. ft.) ÷ 100 = tons needed
Standard brick pavers for walks (2" layer) surface area (sq. ft.) × 5 = number of
pavers needed
Standard bricks for walls and pillars (4 × 8") surface area (sq. ft.) × 7 = number of bricks
needed (single brick thickness)
Poured concrete (4" layer) surface area (sq. ft.) × .012 = cubic yards
needed
Flagstone surface area (sq. ft.) ÷ 100 = tons needed
Interlocking block (2" layer) area of wall face (sq. ft.) × 1.5 = number of
stones needed
Ashlar stone for 1-ft.-thick walls area of wall face (sq. ft.) ÷ 15 = tons of
stone needed
Rubble stone for ÷ 35 1-ft.-thick walls area of wall face (sq. ft.) = tons of stone
needed
8 × 8 × 16" concrete block for freestanding height of wall (ft.) × length of wall (ft.) ×
walls 1.125 = number of blocks needed
Amount of Concrete Needed (Cubic Feet)
Number of 8"- Depth of Footings(feet)
Diameter
Footings

1 2 3 4
2 3/4 1 1/2 2 1/4 3

3 1 2 1/4 3 1/2 4 1/2

4 1 1/2 3 4 1/2 6

5 2 3 3/4 5 3/4 7 1/2

Dry Ingredients for Self-mix

Amount of 94-lb. bags of Cubic feet of Cubic feet of 60-lb. bags of
Concrete portland cement sand gravel premixed dry
Needed (cubic concrete
feet)
1 1/6 1/3 1/2 2

2 1/3 2/3 1 4

3 1/2 1 1 1/2 6

4 2/3 1 1/3 2 8

5 1 2 3 10
10 2 4 6 20
Measure the width and length of the project in feet, then multiply
the dimensions to get the square footage. Measure the thickness in
feet (4" thick equals 1/3 ft.), then multiply the square footage times the
thickness to get the cubic footage. For example, 1 ft. × 3 ft. × 1/3 ft. =
1 cu. ft. Twenty-seven cubic feet equals one cubic yard.

Concrete Coverage
Volume Thickness Surface Coverage
1 cu. yd. 2" 160 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 3" 110 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 4" 80 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 5" 65 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 6" 55 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 8" 40 sq. ft.
BASIC TOOLS

T he right tool always makes the job easier. As a homeowner, you

may already own many of the tools needed for the projects in
this book. If you don’t have the necessary tools, you can borrow
them, rent them, or buy them.
If you decide to purchase new tools, invest in the highest-quality
products you can afford. High-quality tools perform better and last
longer than less-expensive alternatives. Metal tools should be made
from high-carbon steel with smoothly finished surfaces. Hand tools
should be well balanced and have tight, comfortably molded
handles.
Quality tools may actually save you money over time, because
you eliminate the expense of replacing worn out or broken tools
every few years.
Hand tools for outdoor building should be rated for heavy-duty
construction. Always purchase the highest-quality tool you can afford;
there is no substitute for quality.
POWER & RENTAL TOOLS

O utdoor building projects and landscaping work often require

the use of power tools and specialty tools.
Home centers will have the common power tools you will require
in stock, but if your project demands a tool that you will only use
once or that is expensive, consider renting. Many home centers now
have rental equipment on site. Also check your local rental center
outlets for tool availability.
When renting, always read the owner’s manual and operating
instructions to prevent damage to tools and personal injury. Some
rental centers also provide training and assistance on specialty tools.
To ensure your safety, always use a ground-fault circuit-
interrupter (GFCI) extension cord with power tools, and wear
protective gear, such as work glasses, particle masks, and work
gloves when sawing or handling pressure-treated lumber and
masonry products.
Power tools you may need for outdoor building projects include:
(A) Reciprocating saws (corded and cordless); (B) Circular saw or trim
saw; (C) Jigsaw; (D) Cordless drill/driver.
Landscaping tools for preparing sites include: power auger (A),
power tamper (B), power sod cutter (C), pick (D), weed trimmer (E),
come-along (F), garden rake (G).
MASONRY TOOLS

M asonry work involves two steps: preparing the site and laying
the concrete. To work effectively with masonry products, you
will have to buy or rent some special-purpose tools.
You may want to purchase some smaller landscaping tools,
including a pick for excavating hard or rocky soil; a weed trimmer
for removing brush and weeds before digging; a posthole digger for
digging just one or two holes; a come-along for moving large rocks
and other heavy objects without lifting; and a garden rake for
moving small amounts of soil and debris.
To lay concrete you will need trowels, floats, edgers, and jointers.
These are hand tools used to place, shape, and finish concrete and
mortar. Chisels are used to cut and fit brick and block. You can also
equip your circular saw with blades and your power drill with bits
designed for use with concrete and brick.
Always make sure you have the necessary safety equipment on
hand before you start a masonry project, including gloves and
protective eye wear.
Mason’s tools include: a darby (A) for smoothing screeded
concrete; mortar hawk (B) for holding mortar; pointing trowel (C) for
tuck-pointing stone mortar; wide pointing tool (D) for tuck-pointing or
placing mortar on brick and block walls; jointer (E) for finishing mortar
joints; brick tongs (F) for carrying multiple bricks; narrow tuck-pointer
(G) for tuck-pointing or placing mortar on brick and block walls;
mason’s trowel (H) for applying mortar; masonry chisels (I) for splitting
brick, block, and stone; bull float (J) for floating large slabs; mason’s
hammers (K) for chipping brick and stone; maul (L) for driving stakes;
square-end trowel (M) for concrete finishing; side edger (N) and step
edger (O) for finishing inside and outside corners of concrete; joint
chisel (P) for removing dry mortar; control jointer (Q) for creating
control joints; tile nippers (R) for trimming tile; sled jointer (S) for
smoothing long joints; steel trowel (T) for finishing concrete;
magnesium or wood float (U) for floating concrete; screed board (V)
for screeding concrete.
FASTENERS & HARDWARE

B ecause you will be building outdoor structures, the connecting

hardware, fasteners, and materials you use must hold up to
extreme weather conditions. The better the materials, the longer the
life of the structure.
Any metal-connecting hardware and fasteners, including nails
and screws, should be made from rust-resistant material, such as
galvanized steel, aluminum, or stainless steel. Galvanized fasteners
should be triple-dipped in zinc to resist corrosion. Although
galvanized metals will not stain treated wood, they may react with
natural chemicals in cedar and redwood, causing staining. Stainless
steel fasteners won’t cause staining in any wood, but they are
expensive.
Seal screwheads set in counterbored holes with silicone caulk to
prevent water damage. Also be aware that when combining
dissimilar metals, you will need a plastic spacer to prevent the
electrochemical reaction known as galvanic action from occurring,
which causes corrosion.
A common type of hardware you’ll find throughout this book is
the metal anchor, used to reinforce framing connections. Most of the
anchors called for in the various projects (and all of the anchors in
the sheds and outbuilding projects) are commonly available at
lumberyards and home centers. If you can’t find what you need on
the shelves, look through the manufacturer’s catalog, or visit their
website (see page 553). Always use the fasteners recommended by
the manufacturer.
Metal connectors commonly used include: joist hanger (A),
flashing (B), angled joist hanger (C), rafter tie (D), post-beam caps
(E), stair cleat (F), hurricane tie (G), post anchor with washer and
pedestal (H), joist tie (I), angle bracket (J).
Common types of fasteners include: J-bolt with nut and washer
(A), carriage bolts with washers and nuts (B, C), galvanized lag
screws and washers (D), corrosion-resistant deck screws (E),
masonry anchors (F).
CODES & COURTESIES

A lmost anytime you build—whether indoors or out—there are

local regulations you’ll have to consider. Building codes,
zoning ordinances, and permits are the legal issues you’ll have to
contend with, but you should also consider neighborhood standards
and the impact your project will have on neighboring properties.
Building codes govern the materials and construction methods of
your project to ensure safety, and zoning laws govern the size,
location, and style of your structure to preserve aesthetic standards.
Permits and inspections are required to ensure your plans meet all
local building and zoning restrictions.
Requirements and restrictions vary from one municipality to
another, so check the codes for your area. If your plans conflict with
local codes, authorities will sometimes grant a variance, which
allows you to compromise the strict requirements of the code.
Consult with your local building inspection department early in
your planning process to determine if your project requires a permit
and whether you must submit plans for approval. The permit process
can take several weeks or months, so checking early can help you
avoid unnecessary delays or changes to your plans. Then fill out the
necessary forms, pay any applicable fees, and wait for your
approval.
In the meantime, it’s a good idea to discuss your plans with
neighbors. A fence, wall, or gate on or near a property line is as
much a part of your neighbors’ landscapes as your own. The tall
hedge you have planned for privacy, for example, may cast a dense
shadow over your neighbor’s sunbathing deck. The simple courtesy
of apprising your neighbors of your plans can help you avoid
strained relationships or even legal disputes.
 You may find that discussing your plans with neighbors reaps
unexpected rewards. For instance, you and your neighbor may
decide to share labor and expenses by landscaping both properties at
once. Or you may combine resources on a key feature that benefits
both yards, such as a stone garden wall or shade tree. When several
neighbors put their heads together to create an integrated landscape
plan for their yards, the results benefit everyone. Individual
landscapes look larger when the surrounding yards share a
complementary look and style.
In addition, check with your local utility companies to pinpoint
the locations of any underground electrical, plumbing, sewer, or
telephone lines on your property. The locations of these features can
have an obvious impact on your plans, if your project requires
digging or changes to your property’s grade. There is no charge to
have utility companies locate these lines, and it can prevent you
from making an expensive or life-threatening mistake. In many
areas, the law requires that you have this done before digging any
holes.
On the following pages, you’ll find some common legal
restrictions for typical landscape projects.
Always talk with your neighbors when planning an outdoor project.
Not only will this ensure that you agree upon details such as property
lines, it may also enable you to combine resources or expenses.

FENCES
• Height: The maximum height of a fence may be restricted by your
local building code. In some communities, backyard fences are
limited to 6 ft. in height, while front yard fences are limited to 3 ft.
or 4 ft.—or prohibited altogether.
• Setback: Even if not specified by your building code, it’s a good
idea to position your fence 12" or so inside the official property
line to avoid any possible boundary disputes. And don’t assume
that a neighbor’s fence marks the exact boundary of your property.
Before digging an elaborate planting bed up to the edge of your
 neighbor’s fence, it’s best to make sure you’re not encroaching on
someone else’s land.
• Gates: Gates must be at least 3 ft. wide. If you plan to push a
wheelbarrow through it, your gate width should be 4 ft.

Fences should be set back at least 1 ft. from the formal property
lines.

DRIVEWAYS
• Width: Straight driveways should be at least 10 ft. wide; 12 ft. is
better. On sharp curves, the driveway should be 14 ft. wide.
• Thickness: Concrete driveways should be at least 6" thick.
• Base: Because it must tolerate considerable weight, a concrete or
brick paver driveway should have a compactable gravel base that
is at least 6" thick.
• Drainage: A driveway should slope 1/4" per foot away from a
house or garage. The center of the driveway should be crowned so
it is 1" higher in the center than on the sides.
• Reinforcement: Your local building code probably requires that
all concrete driveways be reinforced with iron rebar or steel mesh
for strength.
Driveways should be at least 10 ft. wide to accommodate vehicles.

SIDEWALKS & PATHS

• Size of sidewalks: Traditional concrete sidewalks should be 4 to 5
ft. wide to allow two people to comfortably pass one another, and
3 to 4" thick.
• Width of garden paths: Informal pathways may be 2 to 3 ft. wide,
although steppingstone pathways can be even narrower.
• Base: Most codes require that a concrete or brick sidewalk be laid
on a base of compactable gravel at least 4" thick. Standard
concrete sidewalks may also need to be reinforced with iron rebar
or steel mesh.
• Surface & drainage: Concrete sidewalk surfaces should be
textured to provide a nonslip surface and crowned or slanted 1/4"
per foot to ensure that water doesn’t puddle.
• Sand-set paver walkways: Brick pavers should be laid on a 3"-
thick base of sand.
Walkways should crown in the center to provide water runoff.

STEPS
• Proportion of riser to tread depth: In general, steps should be
proportioned so that the sum of the depth plus the riser, multiplied
by two, is between 25 and 27". A 15" depth and 6" rise, for
example, is a comfortable step (15 + 12 = 27), as is an 18" depth
and 4" rise (18 + 8 = 26).
• Railings: Building codes may require railings for any stairway
with more than three steps, especially for stairs that lead to an
entrance to your home.
Concrete steps should use a comfortable tread depth and riser
height.

CONCRETE PATIOS
• Base: Concrete patios should have a subbase of compactable
gravel at least 4" thick. Concrete slabs for patios should be at least
3" thick.
• Reinforcement: Concrete slabs should be reinforced with wire
mesh or a grid of rebar.
Concrete patios require reinforcement with steel mesh or rebar.

GARDEN WALLS
• Footings: Mortared brick or stone garden walls more than 4 ft. in
height often require concrete footings that extend below the winter
frost line. Failure to follow this regulation can result in a hefty fine
or a demolition order, as well as a flimsy, dangerous wall.
• Drainage: Dry-set stone garden walls installed without concrete
footings should have a base of compactable gravel at least 6" thick
to ensure the stability of the wall.

Mortared garden walls need to be supported by concrete footings.

SWIMMING POOLS
• Fences: Nearly all building codes require a protective fence
around swimming pools to keep young children and animals away
from the water.
• Location: In some areas, building codes require that below-ground
swimming pools be at least 10 ft. away from a building
foundation.
A pool requires a protective fence to keep neighborhood children and
animals from falling in.

SHEDS
• Permits: Sheds greater than 120 sq. ft. generally require a permit,
but temporary buildings generally do not. Additionally, if you live
in a city or a suburban association, there may be restrictions on
where and how you may build a shed. If you live in a rural
community, you may not need a permit if the shed will not house
humans or animals.
• Site: Choose a location that enhances your property in all seasons.
Consider setback requirements, yard grade, drainage, sun
exposure, foliage, and the shed’s function.
• Size: Choose a shed size based on what will be housed in the shed
and how much room is needed to maneuver objects inside. Most
sheds are built with a 3 to 4 ratio, 6-ft. wide by 8-ft. long, for
example.
• Style: Zoning laws may dictate acceptable shed styles for your
area. Try to choose a design that blends with existing home and
neighborhood architecture.
• Foundation: The type of foundation you will need will depend on
the shed’s size and purpose, as well as the climate and soil
conditions in your region. Cost and local building codes may also
play a role in foundation type.

PORCHES
• Permits: Permits are required for any additions to a home. Have
all gas or electrical elements added to the porch inspected before
walls or floors are closed up and finished. In some areas,
inspections may also be required for the footings, framing, and
insulation.
• Slope: When building an open porch, slope floors away from the
home to permit water runoff, and construct a roof overhang of 16"
to enjoy the porch in the rain.
• Cost: To reduce costs, build a porch on a wooden deck, rather than
on a concrete slab.
• Foundation: Always prime and paint wood support members
before installation, including the ends, to prevent rot.

FIRE PITS & BARBECUES

• Clearance: Requirements vary by municipality, but in general,
permanent open fire or barbecue pits are not permitted less than 25
ft. from your home, garage, shed, wood pile, or wooden fences.
• Diameter: Most cities limit the size of a pit to 3 ft. in diameter, but
check your local requirements. The pit must be ringed with a
noncombustible material, such as stone or driveway pavers. Some
cities require a ring of sand around the pit to prevent grass fires.
• Permits: An inspector from the fire department will visit your site
and determine whether the pit meets local safety codes. If your
built-in barbecue will incorporate gas lines or electrical outlets or
fixtures, additional permits and inspections will be required.
• Burning: Most localities do not permit burning rubbish or waste.
The use of flammable or combustible liquid accelerants is
generally prohibited in fire pits. Some may even restrict the size of
cut wood that may be burned.
• Safety: Most cities require an adult present at a pit fire until all
flames are extinguished. If conditions are too windy or dry, or
produce excess smoke, you may be asked to extinguish all flames.
A connected garden hose or other extinguisher must be near the
site.
RETAINING WALLS
• Height: For do-it-yourself construction, retaining walls should be
no more than 4 ft. high. Higher slopes should be terraced with two
or more short retaining walls.
• Batter: A retaining wall should have a backward slant (batter) of 2
to 3" for dry-set stones; 1 to 2" for mortared stones.
• Footings: Retaining walls higher than 4 ft. must have concrete
footings that extend down below the frost line to ensure stability.

A series of short retaining walls, rather than one tall wall, is the
best way to handle a slope.
PONDS
• Safety: To ensure child safety, some communities restrict
landscape ponds to a depth of 12 to 18", unless surrounded by a
protective fence or covered with heavy wire mesh.

Railing balusters are required by building code to be spaced no

more than 4" apart to keep small children from slipping through or
being trapped between them.

DECKS
• Structural members: Determining the proper spacing and size for
structural elements of a deck can be a complicated process, but if
you follow these guidelines, you will satisfy code requirements in
most areas:

BEAM SIZE & SPAN

Beam size Maximum spacing between posts
Two 2 × 8s 8 ft.
Two 2 × 10s 10 ft.
Two 2 × 12s 12 ft.

JOIST SIZE & SPAN

Joist size Maximum distance between beams (Joists 16"
apart)
2×6 8 ft.
2×8 10 ft.
2 × 10 13 ft.

• Decking boards: Surface decking boards should be spaced so the

gaps between boards are no more than 1/4" wide.
• Railings: Any deck more than 24" high requires a railing. Gaps
between rails or balusters should be no more than 4".
• Post footings: Concrete footings should be at least 8" in diameter.
If a deck is attached to a permanent structure, the footings must
extend below the frost line in your region.
Sheds larger than 100 square feet may require a permit, but
temporary structures typically do not.
MEASURING

Y ou will have to accurately measure and note the features of

your yard on a rough sketch, called a yard survey. From this
survey, you can draw a detailed scale drawing, called a site plan.
The sketch for the yard survey can be rough, but the measurements
must be exact.
If possible, enlist someone to help you take these measurements.
If you haven’t already done so, ask your local utility companies to
mark buried utility lines.
You will also have to mark your property lines. If you don’t have
a plot drawing (available from the architect, developer, contractor, or
possibly, the previous owner) or a deed map (available from city
hall, county courthouse, title company, or mortgage bank) that
specifies property lines, hire a surveyor to locate and mark them.
File a copy of the survey with the county as insurance against
possible boundary disputes in the future.
Measure and document the features of your yard to create a rough
yard survey.

The Yard Survey

Accurate yard measurements are critical for estimating quantities and

cost of materials. To sketch your survey, follow these steps:
Step A: Sketch your yard and all its main features on a sheet of paper. Assign a key
letter to each point. Measure all straight lines and record the measurements on a
notepad.
Step B: Take triangulated measurements to locate other features, such as trees that
don’t lie along straight lines. Triangulation involves locating a feature by measuring its
distance from any two points whose positions are known.
Step C: Plot irregular boundaries and curves, such as shade patterns or low-lying areas
that hold moisture after a rainfall. Plot these features by taking a series of perpendicular
measurements from a straight reference line, such as the edge of your house or garage.
Step D: Sketch elevations to show slopes. Measure the vertical drop of a slope using
different-sized stakes and string. Connect the string to the stakes so it is perfectly
horizontal. Measure the distance between the string and ground at 2-ft. intervals along
the string.
CHALLENGES

P lanning an outdoor project often involves dealing with

obstacles in your chosen path. You may have to go around a
tree or rock outcropping, handle a hill or grade change, cross a
depression, or work around buried electric, telephone, gas, cable,
and water lines on your property.
You can easily cope with such challenges by removing the
interference, when possible, or relocating or rerouting your
structure. Contact local utility companies to locate and mark lines
before you draw up plans. Law requires that these companies inspect
your site on request and mark the location of buried lines.
Another option is to incorporate obstacles into your project
layout. For example, on a hillside, step a fence down in level
sections, or follow the contour of the slope. If a tree is in your path,
try adapting your structure to incorporate the tree’s current size and
future growth. For example, plan a deck to flow around a large
shade tree.
Rocks can be dealt with in much the same way. Incorporate
boulders into wall design, or use them as focal points along a
pathway.
Redwoodfence photo courtesy of California Redwood Association
Board, louver, basket-weave, and panel fences are good choices for
stepped fences that accommodate a change in grade. More
geometric in shape, they can also be more difficult to design and
build.
Inset framing makes it possible to save mature trees when building a
deck. Keeping trees and other landscape features intact helps
preserve the value and appearance of your property.
WALKWAYS, STEPS & PATIOS

P athways and patios

transform your yard into a
series of living spaces by
providing a suitable surface for
each room’s intended purpose
and activities.
By their nature, these
outdoor floors must withstand
heavy use and the stresses
caused by seasonal weather. You
will have to carefully select materials, keeping in mind the style
and purpose of the area as well as the climate in your region.
There are a variety of materials available. Brick, stone, concrete,
wood, and gravel can be used alone or in combinations to create
attractive, durable outdoor surfaces. Look for ways to repeat
materials used elsewhere in your landscape or house. For example,
if you have an attractive wood fence, use the same type of wood to
create a boardwalk that flows through your flower beds or garden.
Or if your home has a distinctive brick façade, repeat the brick
element in a matching brick paver patio or walkway.
The projects in this section illustrate the basics of paving with
gravel, stone, brick, concrete, and wood. With an understanding of
these techniques, you can easily complete projects as demonstrated
or create variations. Many of the projects include suggestions for
other materials, applications, or techniques you can apply to the
basic principles.
 IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Design Considerations
• Patio & Walkway Plans
• Layout & Surface Preparation
• Edging
• Loose Rock Landscape Path
• Stepping Stone Landscape Path
• Sandset Brick Walkway
• Poured Concrete Walkway
• Decorative Concrete Path
• Mortared Brick Over a Concrete Path
• Boardwalk Deck on a Slab
• Timber Garden Steps
• Flagstone Garden Steps
• Sandset Brick Patio
• Cobblestone Paver Patio
• Circular Paver Patio
• Flagstone Patio
• Creating a Permeable Subbase
• Spaced Masonry Pavers
• Concrete Slab Patio
• Mortared Paver Patio
DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

I n addition to the creative work of planning the look and feel of a

patio space, there are several practical matters that must be
addressed before you can hit the drawing board. Thinking about
how you will use the patio will help you answer one of the biggest
questions—how much space you’ll need. The planning stage is also
the time to consider environmental factors, including site drainage,
sunlight, and wind, to make sure your patio will be both
comfortable and usable whenever you’re ready to get outside.
Finally, it’s a good idea (and possibly required by law) to check
with your city’s building department to learn about building code
requirements and zoning restrictions that might affect your project
plans.
 USE
How you plan to spend time on your patio will influence many of
your design decisions, so it’s best to start the planning process by
brainstorming with everyone in your household. What will be the
primary uses for the space? Dining, entertaining, sunbathing,
playing with the kids, enjoying the view? Once you establish the
uses, see if you can accommodate all of those activities within an
attractive, efficient design. For some, the solution lies simply in
providing adequate space in a flexible floor plan—a quick shift in
furniture, for example, can set the stage for the next activity.
In thinking about everything you hope to do on your new patio,
imagine the ideal setup for each activity. For example, if you have
young children, maybe you want a comfortable sitting area near an
edge of the patio that’s adjacent to a sandbox (or even a sandbox
built into the patio; when the youngest has outgrown it, you can
turn it into a planting bed). Or maybe you want some space on the
patio for a baby pool or a fountain for the kids to play in.
A patio that’s good for entertaining, as well as everyday uses,
requires a balanced plan. Large, open areas are best for hosting
parties, but can feel empty and overly exposed for a small group of
diners. To accommodate both, separate expansive areas from more
intimate spaces with a change in floor level or create a more
personal, sheltered space by tucking a furniture set into a corner
under an arbor. And don’t forget to include some personal space:
the perfect spot where your favorite chair is always ready for a
little reading time or a quick snooze.
If your plan is to refurbish an existing patio, think hard about
what you like and dislike about the current setup. A patio that’s too
small can be expanded along its borders or can be connected with a
walkway to a new, separate patio space designed for other uses.
Often patios don’t get used because they’re uncomfortable or
uninviting during free time. For example, if you get home from
work just as the western sun is blasting the area with heat, you’ll
probably stay inside. The solution is a simple shade barrier that
blocks those afternoon rays.

Visualizing Your Patio

Create a quick mock-up to help you plan your patio’s size, shape, and location. Mark
the proposed space with rope or garden hose, and set out any furniture you’ll use. See
how it all looks from different points on your lot, as well as from inside the house.
 SIZE & LAYOUT
The ideal size and configuration for your patio is determined by the
space needed for each activity, including plenty of room for easy
access and intervening traffic. With the floor space allocated, you
can begin playing around with different layouts, design elements,
and shapes until the form of the space complements all of its
functions. All the while, keep the big picture in mind—make sure
the proportions and general design of the patio complement your
house and the rest of the landscape.
 HOW MUCH SPACE?
Time to think again about all the uses you have planned for the
patio. If you already have the patio furniture, set it up on the
proposed site and experiment with different arrangements to get a
sense of how much space each furniture grouping will need. If you
don’t have the furniture yet, see the illustration below for
suggestions on spacing. Next, decide which areas you want to be
dedicated for specific activities and which can be rearranged for
multiple uses. Cooking and dining areas are best as static, or
anchored, stations, while an informal sunbathing spot defined by a
couple of lounge chairs can easily be rearranged or moved as
needed.
To plan traffic routes, allow a minimum of 22 inches of width
for main passages between and alongside activity areas (32 inches
minimum for wheelchair access). The main goal is having enough
room for people to move around the patio without disrupting any
activities.
 TAKE A STEP BACK
As your patio plans develop, try to envision the design within its
context. Does the size seem appropriate for the house and lot? How
do the size and layout translate to atmosphere? While it’s important
to make a patio large enough for all its intended uses, there’s also a
risk in making it too large. With interior rooms, some people like
the grandeur and openness of a sprawling great room with a
cathedral ceiling, while others find the expansive space
uncomfortable for personal activities like reading or quiet
conversation.
Architects often design in terms of “human scale,” creating
spaces that are large enough to accommodate the human body in its
everyday activities but small enough to provide a comfortable
sense of space and enclosure. On a patio, you can establish the
proper scale with clear barriers, such as fences and overheads, or
with boundaries that rely more on perception—low walls,
plantings, or even just a change in flooring materials.
When arranging your patio, consider the placement of furniture
and permanent structures as well as the space needed for primary
traffic routes. These routes should have a minimum width of 22" to
allow for comfortable passage throughout the patio.
 ZONING LAWS, BUILDING CODES &
UTILITIES

Contact local utility companies to have all utility lines marked on

your property. This is necessary before digging in your yard, and it
could affect your patio location. Utility companies promptly send out
a representative to mark the lines.

Any alterations made to your lot could fall under your

municipality’s zoning laws. In the case of a new patio, zoning laws
might limit locations for the patio and how much ground it can
cover. The latter relates to the allowable percentage of development
on the lot (adding a large patio now could preclude future plans for
a home addition). Also make sure the patio conforms to setback
restrictions (required distance from lot lines) and easements (zones
that must be accessible for utilities and other public services).
Walls, fire features, or overhead structures may be subject to
standards set by the local building codes, and you may need to
obtain building permits.
Discuss your complete plans with an official at the local
municipality’s planning office for zoning laws. If you run into
snags, ask about alternatives; for example, a poured concrete patio
may not be allowed over an easement, but a less permanent,
sandset surface may be approved.
Also, contact the local utility companies to have all utility lines
marked on your property. Most states are part of the North
American One Call Referral System (888-258-0808), which will
contact all of the utilities in your area to have lines in your yard
marked.
Always check your municipality’s zoning laws when planning a
new patio project.
 ACCESS
Like most recreation and relaxation areas, a patio tends to be used
more often if it’s easily accessible. The same is true of visual
access. Full views, or even just glimpses, of the patio from several
interior rooms will beckon you outdoors on nice days.
Another important consideration involves the rooms that lead to
the patio. For example, if outdoor dining is one of your primary
activities, locating the patio near the kitchen will prove to be an
enormous convenience. Similarly, a patio used frequently for large
parties should not be accessed through a bedroom or other private
space. This is not only an inconvenience, guests feel uncomfortable
walking through private or formal areas of a home.
 ATMOSPHERE
Perhaps the most important elements of all are the everyday factors
that affect the quality of life on a patio, including sunlight, noise,
privacy, and views. Does the site get enough sunlight (or too much)
at the times you’re most likely to use it? Are noise levels
acceptable—or will you need to put up a fence? Will you feel
overly exposed and on display, or too shut in? Finally, what you see
from the patio has a big impact on the atmosphere. If there are no
good views available, add landscaping, plants, or decorations to
create a pleasant view.
 DEALING WITH DRAINAGE
It’s not unusual that a new patio creates, or is subject to, drainage
problems. One common cause is a hard paved surface that sheds
water instead of absorbing it and deposits it along the lower edge of
the patio. There, the water collects, creating a swampy area of
grass. During heavy rains, runoff water can build up enough force
to wash out flower beds bordering a patio. Drainage problems can
also occur when the water has no escape, a common condition with
sunken or recessed patios that are surrounded by retaining walls or
ascending slopes. Additionally, adding or removing soil or plants to
make room for a patio can alter natural drainage patterns,
potentially resulting in an unpleasant surprise with the first good
rain.
Fortunately, all of these problems can be solved with an
appropriate drainage system. For patio runoff, a drainage swale or
perimeter trench is usually effective. These are sloped channels or
trenches that collect excess groundwater and divert it to a
collection point. A trench running along the lowest edge of the
patio can collect water directly from the patio surface. If the patio
is at the top of a natural slope leading to a low point in the yard, a
drainage swale located in the low point keeps the rest of the yard
relatively dry.
Diverting excess water is only half of the battle—the water also
needs a place to go. Ideally, it is collected on your property, where
it filters through the soil and returns to natural aquifers. This can be
achieved with a dry well or with a swale leading to a natural
collection area in the landscape. Another option is to divert excess
runoff to a street gutter or a storm drain, but this design must be
approved by the city’s planning department.
 Enclosed or recessed patios may require their own drainage
system, typically with some type of floor drain. The patio surface
slopes toward the drain, located either in the center or along one
side, where runoff water collects in a subsurface catch basin. From
there, an underground drainpipe carries the water to a collection
point. If you think your patio will need this type of system, consult
an engineer or qualified landscape professional early in the
planning process to discuss your options.

A perimeter trench filled with drainage gravel and drain tile can help
remove excess patio runoff that doesn’t drain well into the yard.
 CLIMATE CONTROL
Careful planning can’t change the weather, but it can help you
make the best of prevailing conditions. By controlling or using
sunlight and shade, wind, and natural air currents, you can make
your patio the most comfortable place in your outdoor landscape.
Consider the following:
Sunlight and shadows: The unalterable pattern of the sun is
one of the few climatic systems you can count on. The tricky part is
positioning your patio so it receives the right amount and intensity
of sunlight at the time of day—and the season—when you’ll use it
most. Remember that the sun’s path changes throughout the year.
In summer, it rises high in the sky along the east-west axis, creating
shorter shadows and more exposure overall. In winter, the sun’s
angle is relatively low, resulting in long shadows in the northwest,
north, and northeast directions. To avoid shadows altogether, locate
your patio away from the house and other structures.

Remember to consider the amount of sunlight your patio will

receive to make sure your planned project will meet your needs.
Shadows follow the east-west axis in the summer.
Winter shadows point to the northeast and northwest and are
relatively long at midday.

Barriers help control wind patterns around your patio. Solid

barriers drive wind currents upward, creating a forcible reversal in
direction. Filtering barriers allow wind to pass through, reducing its
force in the process.
Wind currents can ruin your patio peace as surely as a
rainstorm. Shielding yourself from wind takes careful planning and
sometimes trial and error. Since you can’t protect against all wind,
first determine the direction of prevailing winds—the most
frequent and strongest wind currents affecting your site (prevailing
winds may change with the seasons)—then decide on the best
location for a wind barrier. Contrary to appearances, a solid barrier
often is not the most effective windbreak; these barriers force air
currents to swoop over the top and then drop down on the backside,
returning to full strength at a distance roughly equal to the barrier’s
height. A more reliable windbreak is created with a lattice or
louvered fence that diffuses and weakens the wind as it passes
through the barrier.
Patio materials and orientation: The surface material you
choose can also affect the patio environment. Dark-colored, solid
surfaces—like brick or dark stone—absorb a lot of heat during the
day and may become uncomfortable to walk on in sunny areas.
However, after the sun goes down, stored heat released from the
paving can warm the air on the patio. Solid walls also reflect heat
and can restrict cooling breezes. Because cold air sinks, low-lying
patios or those positioned at the base of an incline tend to be cooler
than higher areas of the landscape.
If you’re building an overhead specifically for shade,
experiment with alternative materials, such as bamboo screening or
fabric, to filter sunlight and control wind.
Surface materials, barriers, and the patio’s elevation within the
landscape all have an effect on the space’s temperature and
comfortability.
PATIO & WALKWAY PLANS

T his section offers a different kind of inspiration from the

section on design themes. Here you’ll see detailed patio and
landscape plans for several different types of properties, each
showing specific design solutions for making the most of the
available space and existing conditions. One or more of the
properties might resemble your own, but even if none of them does,
don’t worry; the idea is to see how various elements can be put to
use and to think about how some of those solutions might work in
your own plan.
The five designs, starting on the following page, are shown in
plan, or aerial, view. This is the perspective that professionals use
to do much of their design work, as it provides not only a bird’s-
eye view of the entire site, it’s also the best way to see how the
patio, walkways, and other elements relate to the house and
surrounding landscape. Plan drawings of your own property can be
quite helpful in designing and planning a new patio or path project
(see below).

Drawing Your Own Plans

Unless you need them for getting a permit or other official business,
detailed drawings of your site and new projects are optional. But there
are a few good reasons to map out your property and at least sketch
your basic plans onto paper. Scaled drawings are good for showing
relationships between elements and overall proportions within a plan,
and are helpful for estimating materials and making shopping lists. If
you hire out any of the work, detailed drawings will be invaluable for
obtaining accurate bids and to help you keep the project on track during
construction. Also, sketches are always useful for conveying or
experimenting with ideas.
When making your own drawings, it’s best to work from a base
map, or site plan—an aerial view of the project site and as much of the
surrounding area as is relevant. The site plan should include:
• The house (at least the wall adjacent to the patio), including doors,
windows, and light fixtures
• Trees, significant plantings, and other landscaping features
• Gutter downspouts, outdoor faucets, and electrical outlets
• Notes about prevailing winds, lot grading (for sloping sites), and
natural drainage routes
• Views (good and bad) from the patio site
• Sun and wind patterns
An accurately scaled site plan puts your property into perspective
and helps you think like a designer. Create a plan using your own
measurements or locate the plat map or original blueprints of your
property (check with the local city or county planning offices or your
mortgage/title company).

Sketch your designs onto clean copies of the site plan, or use an
overlay of tracing paper for each new drawing. As you refine your
plans, create more detailed, smaller-scale drawings of the
patio/walkway site and immediate surroundings.
 SAMPLE PATIO PLAN 1
Like most lots in established urban neighborhoods, this backyard
space was short on both space and privacy. But by devoting most of
the area to two patios and the rest to planting beds, this design
provides ample room for entertaining, outdoor dining, and even
gardening.
The main patio space is paved with cut stone for a natural yet
clean look and a smooth surface that’s good for nighttime parties
and frequent traffic between the house and the back gate. In one
corner, a flagstone coffee table and fountain define a casual
“lounge” area; the fountain also helps dampen the city’s noise. A
vine-covered arbor (or trellis) provides shade and privacy for half
of the lounge area and a portion of the smaller planting bed.
Opposite the lounge area, a cozy corner patio is the perfect stage
for intimate gatherings and everyday meals. Its natural flagstone
floor is two short steps up from the main patio surface. This, along
with the decorative post-and-beam gate, gives the dining space a
special, secluded feel. A fan-shaped arbor could be added here for
shade and more privacy.
This multifunctional design adds privacy while creating multiple
spaces for entertaining.
 SAMPLE PATIO PLAN 2
Sloping ground can be a challenge for patio plans, but can also be
an opportunity for creating dramatic features or perspectives you
can’t get with a flat surface. In this backyard site, the area near the
middle of the house was relatively close to grade. Adding a few
retaining walls allowed the patio to extend out to both sides. One
retaining wall cuts into the slope along the south end of the site,
providing space and a boundary for a paver walkway linking the
patio to the front yard. This abuts a four-foot-tall masonry wall that
carves a 90-degree space into the slope and provides a backdrop
(and backsplash) for an L-shaped outdoor kitchen.
The low wall at the north end of the patio retains earth for the
patio surface and helps create a lofty feel for the sitting area outside
the home’s master bedroom. A planter with trees provides a subtle
barrier between the sitting area and the main patio space. Out on
the yard’s planted slope, a set of stone steps leads to gently
climbing stepping stone paths laid out for either strolling through
the foliage or tending to garden plants.
To make the most of a sloping yard, use retaining walls, steps,
and paths to emphasize grand views and allow easy access to
garden areas.
 SAMPLE PATIO PLAN 3
This grand design, created for a large suburban or rural property,
has a setting for every mood and occasion: the expansive brick
patio provides an elegant venue for both formal and casual
entertaining. Guests (and kids) will feel more than welcome to step
out onto the lawn for backyard games or a stroll through the
grounds.
In addition to its ample open space, the brick patio serves as an
entryway to a screened porch—a welcome retreat for hot, wet, or
buggy weather. At the other end, the patio surrounds a small sun
deck designed for a few lounge chairs or perhaps a bistro set used
for drinks or everyday meals.
Away from the main patio, two destinations offer getaways of
distinctly different character: follow the pebbled stepping-stone
path through the archway to the sun-sheltered garden view from the
gazebo. Or, stroll across the lawn after dark for stargazing around
the open fire on the circular gravel patio.
This design provides outdoor rooms for all purposes—gathering
around a fire, dining, sunbathing, relaxing in a screened-in porch, or
enjoying the view from a gazebo.
 SAMPLE PATIO PLAN 4
Casual and organic in feel, this plan with sandset flagstone surfaces
embodies the spirit of the ranch home, in which the patio is used as
an extension of the indoor spaces. Running the full length of the
home, the patio is accessible from several different rooms and is
likewise visible from each.
An arbor with vine-covered trellis screen defines and shelters a
dining space located just outside of the home’s kitchen. And for the
cook, a large planting bed adjacent to the patio provides easy
access to fresh herbs, fruits, and vegetables. An integrated sandbox
keeps the kids near the house and out of the hot afternoon sun.
Both the sandbox and integrated flowerbed are simply excavated
areas filled with play sand over soil and landscape fabric.
In keeping with the natural look of the patio paving, flagstones
are used for a well-traveled walkway between the front and back
yards, while a compacted gravel path with natural stone edging
creates an attractive service road leading from the shed to the back
garden.
This sandset flagstone patio is accessible from multiple areas
around the house, seamlessly integrating indoor and outdoor living.
 SAMPLE PATIO PLAN 5
This new suburban property presented a challenge to the standard
patio plan: the back of the house seemed just right for a full-sized
patio, but the neighboring property was so close that the view from
the patio would be dominated by the neighbor’s kitchen (and their
backyard patio). The better view was from the front of the house.
Therefore, this design places the main patio space around the front
door, incorporating the existing entry stoop and portico. A second,
smaller patio made with circular concrete pavers serves as a
landing and casual sitting area just outside the patio door leading to
the back yard.
Because it faces the street, is well-integrated with the house, and
is partially sheltered with overheads, the entry patio feels a lot like
a traditional front porch. A low masonry wall adds definition and a
sense of enclosure to the patio. However, to maintain a welcoming
feel for the front entry, a large opening in the wall leaves plenty of
room for the existing concrete walkway. Also, the walkway
remains uninterrupted from the sidewalk to the front stoop, clearly
indicating the direct route to the front door. The patio paving is
level with the walkway so the entire space is useable as a patio
surface when needed.
If the best view of your home is in the front, consider constructing
a landscaped patio around your home’s existing entryway, as shown
in this design. A small patio in back is still a practical addition for
greater privacy.
LAYOUT & SURFACE PREPARATION

T he first major step of any patio project is to set up guide

strings. Once that’s finished, excavation begins and then a
layer of gravel is added. The gravel is an essential element of patio
construction: like your house’s foundation, it creates a flat, stable
base for building upon; and it protects the surface material by
providing drainage underneath to minimize shifting and settling
caused by seasonal freeze-thaw cycles.
There are a few matters to take care of before you begin the
layout and surface prep work. The first is to determine the
thickness of each layer of the patio construction. This includes the
thicknesses of the surface material, the sand bed (if required), and
the gravel subbase. For most patio types, the gravel layer should be
four inches thick (after compaction). Concrete slab patios call for
six inches of gravel, but this is subject to the local building code
and may vary by region. The combined thicknesses of the layers
minus the distance the patio surface will stand above the ground
gives you the depth of the excavation.
The height of the finished patio aboveground is up to you. The
standard minimum height is one inch. This ensures the patio will
drain properly, but it’s low enough to cut any bordering grass with
a mower.
The next factor to determine is the total drop distance—the
change in elevation from the high end to the low end of the patio
surface. This creates the slope necessary for water runoff. Your
patio should slope away from the house foundation or other
adjacent structure (and preferably away from main traffic routes) at
a rate of 1/8-inch per linear foot. For example, if your patio will
extend 12 feet from your house, the drop distance of the patio
surface will be 11/2 inches. In the following project, you’ll calculate
the drop distance by measuring from the house (or high edge of the
patio) to the batterboards at the low edge. The batterboards are set
about 12 inches beyond the finished patio edges, and this additional
amount makes the final drop distance more accurate than using the
finished patio dimensions.
The final step before you start digging is to locate underground
utility lines in the project site. Call your utility service providers or
a national provider (see Resources, page 553) to have your lines
marked.

Set up batterboards for the layout strings so you can easily remove
and replace the strings without losing the slope and layout settings. A
story pole—measured against temporary cross strings—makes it
easy to check the depth of each layer as you work. Remember to
call utility companies to have them mark utility lines in or near the
project site before excavating.

Tools & Materials

Drill
Circular saw
Hammer
Level
Hand maul
Mason’s string
Line level
Power sod cutter or lawn edger
Excavation tools
Bow rake
Plate compactor or hand tamp
Shovel
Wheelbarrow
Plumb bob
Lumber (2 × 2, 2 × 4)
21/2" coarse-thread drywall screws
Common nails
Compactable gravel
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Rope or garden hose
Marking paint
Flat spade
U-shaped wire stakes (optional)
Landscape fabric (optional)
 HOW TO PREPARE & EXCAVATE A
BUILDING SITE

Construct the batterboards from 2 × 4 lumber and 21/2" screws:

Cut the batterboard legs 24" long, and then taper the ends to a point.
Cut the cross- pieces at 24". Align and fasten the legs perpendicular
to the ends of the cross- pieces. Use a nail or screw at the top center
of each crosspiece.
 Image
Roughly mark the patio corners with 2 × 2 stakes. Cut the 2 × 2
ends to a taper (the greater the angle, the easier it will be to drive
into the ground). Tap the tapered end into the ground with a hand
maul or sledgehammer.

Image
Drive pairs of batterboards about 2 ft. behind the stakes, holding
them plumb and level. The tops of the crosspieces should be about
12" above the ground. If the patio abuts the house, drive a single 2 ×
4 stake at each corner so one face of the stake is even with the
planned edge of the patio.

Image
Tie a mason’s string taut between an outer batterboard nail and
one of the house-side (or high edge of the patio) stakes. Attach a line
level (inset) to the string and adjust the stakes as needed until the
string is perfectly level.

Image
Begin setting the slope on the first layout string: stand the pole
next to the batterboard and mark the height of the level mason’s
string. Measure between the house (or high side) stake to the
batterboard, then calculate the drop distance for the string—a
common slope is 1/4" per linear foot.

Image
Using the story pole as a guide, drive the batterboard down until
the string is even with the drop distance mark. Make sure the
crosspiece remains level across the top so the string’s height won’t
change if you move the string later.
 Image
Set up the remaining three string lines so they are even with the
outer edges of the finished patio and are just touching the first string.
First install the two strings parallel to the house, and use the line
level to confirm they are level. The final string (parallel to the first
string) will have the proper slope when it touches the intersecting
strings.

Image
Variation: Use a rope or a garden hose to lay out curved or freeform
patio edges. Mark the outline onto the ground with marking paint.
Once you complete the subbase, you can repeat the process to
guide the installation. Note: Curving patios still need a string layout
to guide the excavation and base prep.

Image
Make sure the string layout is perfectly square using the 3-4-5
squaring technique: starting at one of the string intersections,
measure along one string and make a mark at 3 ft. (or a multiple of 3
ft.). Measure along the perpendicular string and mark at 4 ft.
Measure between the two marks: the distance should equal 5 ft. If
not, adjust the strings as needed until the measurements come out
correctly. Repeat the process at the diagonally opposed corner. Mark
the string positions onto the batterboard crosspieces.

Checking for Square

The traditional 3-4-5 technique can also be used for larger multiples of
3, 4, and 5. This provides greater accuracy for larger patios. For
example, use 6, 8, and 10 ft.
 Alternatively, you can use a long tape to measure between opposing
corners of the layout. When the measurements are equal, the layout is
square.

Image
Determine the finished height of the patio surface. If the patio
abuts the house, the finished surface should be 1 to 3" below the
typical threshold of an entry door. At the low end of the patio it’s
desirable to have the finished surface rise at least 1" above the
surrounding ground to facilitate drainage and prevent dirt and mud
from washing onto the patio.

Image
On your story pole, mark a top line for the distance from the string
line (measured at the high edge of the patio) to the full excavation
depth. A second line represents the distance from the string to the
top of the compacted gravel base. Be sure to account for the
thickness of the paving material and sand bed as needed.

Image
Cut the sod along the project outline using a flat-end spade or a
power lawn edger. To compensate for edging, extend the excavation
about 6" beyond the finished patio outline. Reserve healthy sod for
covering soil backfill behind the edging.

Image
Strip the sod or vegetation inside the outlined area and then
excavate the construction area to a depth that allows for a 6"-thick
gravel subbase, a 1" layer of sand, and the paver thickness; account
for the finished height aboveground also.

Image
Grade and compact the soil. First use a bow rake to achieve the
proper slope, and then compact the soil with a rented plate or hand
tamper. Set up temporary cross strings for reference to simplify the
excavation and the gravel installation later.

Image
Use the story pole to check the depth as you work. Drive a pair of
2 × 2 stakes outside of the original string layout, and tie on the cross
string so it’s just touching the layout strings. Check the depth at
several points along the cross string, removing or adding soil as
needed to achieve the proper depth. Once that’s done, move the
cross string to the next section and repeat. Note: Thoroughly tamp
any soil that’s been added to a low spot to minimize future settling.
For the same reason, it’s best to use soil from the immediate area
(instead of purchased topsoil) or fill low areas with compacted sand
or gravel.

Image
Variation: For loose-fill patios, install a layer of high-quality
landscape fabric to inhibit weed growth before adding the gravel
base. Overlap rows of fabric by at least 6". If desired, pin the fabric in
place with U-shaped wire stakes.

Image
Add the first layer of compactable gravel (or start with landscape
fabric; see Variation this page). Dump wheelbarrow loads of gravel
into evenly distributed pods, then spread out each pod in all
directions with a shovel and a bow rake. Use the rake to create a
flat, smooth surface.

Image
Thoroughly tamp each layer of gravel before adding more, as
needed. If using a hand tamper, compact the gravel in 2"-thick
layers; if using a plate compactor, compact every 4" of gravel. Use
cross strings and the story pole to check the gravel height as you
work. A straight 2 × 4 also helps for smoothing gravel prior to
compacting and for checking for high and low spots.

Image
Extend a plumb bob from the layout strings to the base to mark the
exact corners and edges of the finished patio for the surface
installation. Mark each point with paint or a small stake. Find and
mark the corners of the patio by hanging the plumb bob from each
string intersection. Proceed to the installation portion of your project.
EDGING

E dging can play many different roles in patio and walkway

design. Its most practical purpose is containment—keeping
the surface material in place so paving doesn’t drift off into the
yard. As a decorative feature, edging creates a visual border that
adds a sense of order or closure to the path or patio space. This
effect can be enhanced by edging with a material that contrasts
with the surface material or can be made more subtle by using the
same material, perhaps in a slightly different pattern. Finally,
edging can serve to strengthen the patio or walkway as a hard,
protective curb that stands up to years of foot traffic.
The best time to install edging depends on your application. For
most sandset paving and loose material surfaces, edging is typically
installed on top of the compacted gravel subbase. Edging along
existing concrete slabs can be applied on top of the slab or along
the sides, with the proper order determined by the finish materials.
To minimize the number of cuts required for paving, install
edging after the patio surface is complete. You can also install two
adjacent sides of edging to form a right angle, providing an
accurate guide for starting the paver pattern, and then install the
remaining two sides up against the laid pavers. A third option is to
set up temporary 2 × 4 edging, which can be easily replaced with
the real thing after the paving is finished.

Image
Install professional-grade paver edging along chalk lines (chalk
lines are snapped directly below the outlines you've created with the
mason's strings). The paver edge should rest on the compacted
gravel.
 RIGID PAVER EDGING
Choose heavy-duty edging that’s strong enough to contain your
surface materials. If your patio or walkway has curves, buy plenty
of notched, or flexible, edging for the curves. Also, buy 12-inch-
long galvanized spikes: one for every 12 inches of edging plus
extra for curves.

Invisible Edging
Invisible edging is so named for its low-profile edge that stops about
halfway up the side edges of pavers. The exposed portion of the edging
is easily concealed under soil and sod or groundcover.

Image
Rigid plastic edging installs easily and works well for both curved and straight
walkways made from paving stones or brick pavers set in sand.

Tools & Materials

Maul
Snips or saw (for cutting edging)
Heavy-duty plastic edging
12" galvanized spikes
 HOW TO INSTALL RIGID PAVER EDGING
Image
Set the edging on top of a compacted gravel base covered with
landscape fabric. Using your layout strings as guides, secure the
edging with spikes driven every 12" (or as recommended by the
manufacturer). Along curves, spike the edging at every tab, or as
recommended.

Image
Cover the outside of the edging with soil and/or sod after the
paving is complete. Tip: On two or more sides of the patio or path,
you can spike the edging minimally, in case you have to make
adjustments during the paving. Anchor the edging completely after
the paving is done.
 BRICK PAVER EDGING
Brick edging can be laid in several different configurations (see
below): on-end with its edge perpendicular to the paved surface
(“soldiers”); on its long edges; or laid flat, either parallel or
perpendicular to the paving. For mortared surfaces, brick can also
be mortared to the edge of a concrete slab for a decorative finish
(see pages 74 to 77 and 142 to 149).

Brick Edging Configurations

Image
Brick "soldier" edging with ends upward

Image
Brick set on long edges

Image
Brick set on faces, edge-to-edge or end-to-end

Image

Tools & Materials

Flat shovel
Rubber mallet
2 × 4 (about 12" long)
Bricks
Hand tamper
Garden spade
Work gloves
Gravel
Landscape fabric
Eye protection
 HOW TO INSTALL BRICK PAVER EDGING
Image
Excavate the edge of the patio or walkway site using a flat shovel
to create a clean, vertical edge. The edge of the soil (and sod) will
support the outsides of the bricks. For edging with bricks set on-end,
dig a narrow trench along the perimeter of the site, setting the depth
so the tops of the edging bricks will be flush with the paving surface
(or just above the surface for loose materials).

Image
Set the edging bricks into the trench after installing the gravel
subbase and landscape fabric. If applicable, use your layout strings
to keep the bricks in line and to check for the proper height. Backfill
behind the bricks with soil and tamp well as you secure the bricks in
place. Install the patio surface material. Tap the tops of the bricks
with a rubber mallet and a short 2 × 4 to level them with one another
(inset).
 STONE EDGING
Cut stone or dressed stone makes better edging than flagstone,
which often has jagged edges that create an uneven border. Semi-
dressed stone, with one or more flat sides, is a good option for a
more natural look.

Tools & Materials

Rubber mallet
Maul
Stone chisel
Pitching chisel
Pointing chisel
Garden spade
Edging stones
Sand
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Mason’s hammer
Shovel
Gravel base
Landscape fabric

Trimming Stone
Trim irregular stones for a tight fit: first score a cutting line with a
small stone chisel and maul, then complete the cut with a pitching
chisel. Use a pointing chisel or the pick end of a mason’s hammer to
knock off small bumps and smooth rough edges.
Image
 HOW TO INSTALL STONE EDGING
Image
Excavate the patio or walkway site and dig a perimeter trench to
accommodate the stone edging. Add the landscape fabric and then a
gravel base, as required. Place each stone into the trench and tap it
with a rubber mallet to set it into the gravel. Use your layout strings
to keep the edging in line and at the proper height.

Image
Backfill behind the stones with soil and tamp with a shovel handle
or a board to secure the stones in the trench. If desired, fill the
spaces between stones with sand or soil to help lock them together.
 CONCRETE CURB EDGING
Poured concrete edging is perfect for curves and custom shapes,
especially when you want a continuous border at a consistent
height. Keeping the edging low to the ground (about one inch
above grade) makes it work well as a mowing strip, in addition to a
patio or walkway border. Use fiber-reinforced concrete mix, and
cut control joints into the edging to help control cracking.

Image
Concrete edging draws a sleek, smooth line between surfaces in
your yard and is especially effective for curving paths and walkways.

Tools & Materials

Rope or garden hose
Excavation tools
Mason’s string
Hand tamp
Maul
Circular saw
Drill
Concrete mixing tools
Margin trowel
Wood concrete float
Concrete edger
1 × 1 wood stakes
1/4" hardboard
1" wood screws
Fiber-reinforced concrete
Acrylic concrete sealer
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
 HOW TO INSTALL CONCRETE CURB
EDGING
Image
Lay out the contours of the edging using a rope or garden hose.
For straight runs, use stakes and mason’s string to mark the layout.
Make the curb at least 5" wide.

Image
Dig a trench between the layout lines 8" wide (or 3" wider than the
finished curb width) at a depth that allows for a 4"-thick (minimum)
curb at the desired height above grade. Compact the soil to form a
flat, solid base.

Image
Stake along the edges of the trench, using 1 × 1 × 12" wood
stakes. Drive a stake every 18" along each side edge.

Image
Build the form sides by fastening 4"-wide strips of 1/4" hardboard to
the insides of the stakes using 1" wood screws. Bend the strips to
follow the desired contours.

Image
Add spacers inside the form to maintain a consistent width. Cut
the spacers from 1 × 1 to fit snugly inside the form. Set the spacers
along the bottom edges of the form at 3-ft. intervals.

Image
Fill the form with concrete mixed to a firm, workable consistency.
Use a margin trowel to spread and consolidate the concrete.

Image
Tool the concrete: once the bleed water disappears, smooth the
surface with a wood float. Using a margin trowel, cut 1"-deep control
joints across the width of the curb at 3-ft. intervals. Tool the side
edges of the curb with an edger. Allow to cure. Seal the concrete, as
directed, with an acrylic concrete sealer, and let it cure for 3 to 5
days before removing the form.
 LANDSCAPE TIMBER EDGING
Pressure-treated landscape or cedar timbers make attractive,
durable edging that’s easy to install. Square-edged timbers are best
for geometric pavers like brick and cut stone, while loose materials
and natural flagstone look best with rounded or squared timbers.
Choose the size of timber depending on how bold you want the
border to look.

Image
Lumber or timber edging can be used with any patio surface
material. Here, this lumber edging is not only decorative, it also holds
all of the loose material in place.

Tools & Materials

Excavation tools
Plate compactor (available for rent)
Maul
Reciprocating saw with wood-cutting and metal-cutting blades, circular
saw, or handsaw
Drill and 1/2" bit
Compacted gravel
Landscape fabric
Sand (optional)
Landscape timbers (pressure-treated or rot-resistant species only)
1/2"-diameter (#4) rebar
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
 HOW TO INSTALL TIMBER EDGING
Image
During the site excavation, dig a perimeter trench for the timbers
so they will install flush with the top of the patio or walkway surface
(or just above the surface for loose material). Add the compacted
gravel base, as required, including a 2 to 4" layer in the perimeter
trench. Cut timbers to the desired length using a reciprocating saw
with a long wood-cutting blade, a circular saw, or a handsaw.

Image
Drill 1/2" holes through each timber, close to the ends and every 24"
in between. Cut a length of 1/2"-diameter (#4) rebar at 24" for each
hole using a reciprocating saw and metal-cutting blade. Set the
timbers in the trench and make sure they lie flat. Use your layout
strings as guides for leveling and setting the height of the timbers.
Anchor the timbers with the rebar, driving the bar flush with the wood
surface.
 LUMBER EDGING
Dimension lumber makes for an inexpensive edging material and a
less-massive alternative to landscape timbers; 2 × 4 or 2 × 6 lumber
works well for most patios and walkways. Use only pressure-
treated lumber rated for ground contact or all-heart redwood or
cedar boards to prevent rot. For the stakes, use pressure-treated
lumber, since they will be buried anyway and appearance is not a
concern.

Image
Wood edging is a popular choice for simple flagstone or paver
walkways and for patios with a casual look.

Tools & Materials

Excavation tools
Circular saw
Compactable gravel
Drill
2× lumber for edging
2 × 4 lumber for stakes
Wood preservative
Compacted gravel
Landscape fabric
Sand
21/2" galvanized deck screws
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
 HOW TO INSTALL LUMBER EDGING
Image
Excavate the patio site, and dig a perimeter trench for the boards
so they will install flush with the top of the patio surface (or just
above the surface for loose material). Add the gravel base, as
required, including a 2 to 4" layer of gravel in the trench. Cut the
edging boards to length, and seal the ends with wood preservative.
Cut 2 × 4 stakes about 16" long. Set the edging boards in the trench
and drive a stake close to the ends of each board and every 24" in
between.

Image
Fasten the boards to the stakes with pairs of 21/2" deck screws.
Where boards meet at corners and butt joints, fasten them together
with screws. Use your layout strings as guides for leveling and
setting the height of the edging. Backfill behind the edging to support
the boards and hide the stakes.
LOOSE ROCK LANDSCAPE PATH

L oose-fill gravel pathways are perfect for stone gardens, casual

yards, and other situations where a hard surface is not
required. The material is inexpensive, and its fluidity
accommodates curves and irregular edging. Since gravel may be
made from any rock, gravel paths may be matched to larger stones
in the environment, tying them in to your landscaping. The gravel
you choose need not be restricted to stone, either. Industrial and
agricultural byproducts, such as cinder and ashes, walnut shells,
seashells, and ceramic fragments may also be used as path material.
For a more stable path, choose angular or jagged gravel over
rounded materials. However, if your preference is to stroll
throughout your landscape barefoot, your feet will be better served
with smoother stones, such as river rock or pond pebbles. With
stone, look for a crushed product in the 1/4- to 3/4-inch range.
Angular or smooth, stones smaller than that can be tracked into the
house, while larger materials are uncomfortable and potentially
hazardous to walk on. If it complements your landscaping, use
light-colored gravel, such as buff limestone. Visually, it is much
easier to follow a light pathway at night because it reflects more
moonlight.
Stable edging helps keep the pathway gravel from migrating
into the surrounding mulch and soil. When integrated with
landscape fabric, the edge keeps invasive perennials and trees from
sending roots and shoots into the path. Do not use gravel paths near
plants and trees that produce messy fruits, seeds, or other debris
that will be difficult to remove from the gravel. Organic matter left
on gravel paths will eventually rot into compost that will support
weed growth.
 A base of compactable gravel under the surface material keeps
the pathway firm underfoot. For best results, embed the surface
gravel material into the paver base with a plate compactor. This
prevents the base from showing through if the gravel at the surface
is disturbed. An underlayment of landscape fabric helps stabilize
the pathway and blocks weeds, but if you don’t mind pulling an
occasional dandelion and are building on firm soil, it can be
omitted.

Tools & Materials

Mason’s string
Hose or rope
Marking paint
Excavation tools
Garden rake
Shovel
Mallet
Plate compactor
Sod stripper or power sod cutter
Wood stakes
Lumber (1 × 2, 2 × 4)
Straight 2 × 4
Edging
Spikes
Professional-grade landscape fabric
Compactable gravel
Dressed gravel
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Circular saw
Maul
 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
Image

Image
Loose materials can be used as filler between solid surface
materials, like flagstone, or laid as the primary ground cover, as
shown here.

Make a Spacer Gauge

Image
To ensure that the edges of the pathway are exactly parallel, create a spacer bar
and use it as a guide to install the edging. Start with a piece of 2 × 4 that’s a bit longer
than the path width. Near one end, cut a notch that will fit snugly over the edging. Trim
the spacer so the distance from the notch to the other end is the planned width of the
pathway.
 HOW TO CREATE A GRAVEL PATHWAY
Image
Lay out one edge of the path excavation. Use a section of hose or
rope to create curves, and use stakes and string to indicate straight
sections. Cut 1 × 2 spacers to set the path width and establish the
second pathway edge; use another hose and/or more stakes and
string to lay out the other edge. Mark both edges with marking paint.

Image
Remove sod in the walkway area using a sod stripper or a power
sod cutter (see option, at right). Excavate the soil to a depth of 4 to
6". Measure down from a 2 × 4 placed across the path bed to fine-
tune the excavation. Grade the bottom of the excavation flat using a
garden rake. Note: If mulch will be used outside the path, make the
excavation shallower by the depth of the mulch. Compact the soil
with a plate compactor.

Image
Option: Use a power sod cutter to strip grass from your pathway
site. Available at most rental centers and large home centers, sod
cutters excavate to a very even depth. The cut sod can be replanted
in other parts of your lawn.

Image
Lay landscaping fabric from edge to edge, lapping over the
undisturbed ground on either side of the path. On straight sections,
you may be able to run parallel to the path with a single strip; on
curved paths, it’s easier to lay the fabric perpendicular to the path.
Overlap all seams by 6".
 Image
Install edging over the fabric. Shim the edging with small stones, if
necessary, so the top edge is 1/2" above grade (if the path passes
through grass) or 2" above grade (if it passes through a mulched
area). Secure the edging with spikes. To install the second edge, use
a 2 × 4 spacer gauge that’s been notched to fit over your edging (see
facing page).

Image
Stone or vertical-brick edges may be set in deeper trenches at the
sides of the path. Place these on top of the fabric also. You do not
have to use additional edging with paver edging, but metal (or other)
edging will keep the pavers from wandering.

Image
Trim excess fabric, then backfill behind the edging with dirt and
tamp it down carefully with the end of a 2 × 4. This secures the
edging and helps it to maintain its shape.

Image
Add a 2- to 4"-thick layer of compactable gravel over the entire
pathway. Rake the gravel flat. Then, spread a thin layer of your
surface material over the base gravel.

Image
Tamp the base and surface gravel together using a plate
compactor. Be careful not to disturb or damage the edging with the
compactor.

Image
Fill in the pathway with the remaining surface gravel. Drag a 2 × 4
across the tops of the edging using a sawing motion, to level the
gravel flush with the edging.

Image
Set the edging brick flush with the gravel using a mallet and 2 × 4.

Image
Tamp the surface again using the plate compactor or a hand
tamper. Compact the gravel so it is slightly below the top of the
edging. This will help keep the gravel from migrating out of the path.

Image
Rinse off the pathway with a hose to wash off dirt and dust and
bring out the true colors of the materials.
STEPPING STONE LANDSCAPE PATH

A stepping stone path is both a practical and appealing way to

traverse a landscape. With large stones as foot landings, you
are free to use pretty much any type of fill material in between. You
could even place stepping stones on individual footings over ponds
and streams, making water the temporary infill that surrounds the
stones. The infill does not need to follow a narrow path bed, either.
Steppers can be used to cross a broad expanse of gravel, such as a
Zen gravel panel or a smaller graveled opening in an alpine rock
garden.
Stepping stones in a path serve two purposes: they lead the eye,
and they carry the traveler. In both cases, the goal is rarely fast,
direct transport, but more of a relaxing stroll that’s comfortable,
slow-paced, and above all, natural. Arrange the stepping stones in
your walking path according to the gaits and strides of the people
that are most likely to use the pathway. Keep in mind that our gaits
tend to be longer on a utility path than in a rock garden.
Sometimes steppers are placed more for visual effect, with the
knowledge that they will break the pacing rule with artful clusters
of stones. Clustering is also an effective way to slow or congregate
walkers near a fork in the path or at a good vantage point for a
striking feature of the garden.
In the project featured here, landscape edging is used to contain
the loose infill material (small aggregate); however a stepping
stone path can also be effective without edging. For example,
setting a series of steppers directly into your lawn and letting the
lawn grass grow between them is a great choice as well.
 Tools & Materials
Mason’s string
Hose or rope
Marking paint
Sod stripper
Excavation tools
Hand tamp
Wood stakes
1 × 2 lumber
Straight 2 × 4
Edging
Landscape fabric
Coarse sand
Thick steppers or broad river rocks with one flat face
1/4 to 1/2" pond pebbles
21/2"-dia. river rock
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Level
Rake

Choosing Steppers

Image
Select beefy stones (minimum 21/2 to 31/2" thick) with at least one flat
side. Thinner stepping stones tend to sink into the pebble infill. Stones
that are described as stepping stones usually have two flat faces. For the
desired visual effect on this project, we chose steppers and 12 to 24"
wide fieldstones with one broad, flat face (the rounded face is buried in
the ground, naturally).
 Image
Stepping stones blend beautifully into many types of landscaping,
including rock gardens, ponds, flower or vegetable gardens, or
manicured grass lawns.
 HOW TO MAKE A STEPPING STONE
LANDSCAPE PATH
Image
Excavate and prepare a bed for the path as you would for the
gravel pathway (see pages 58 to 61), but use coarse building sand
instead of compactable gravel for the base layer. Screed the sand
flat so it’s 2" below the top of the edging. Do not tamp the sand. Tip:
Low-profile plastic landscape edging is a good choice because it
does not compete with the pathway.

Image
Moisten the sand bed, then position the stepping stones in the
sand, spacing them for comfortable walking and the desired
appearance. As you work, place a 2 × 4 across three adjacent
stones to make sure they are even with one another. Add or remove
sand beneath the steppers, as needed, to stabilize and level the
stones.

Image
Pour in a layer of larger infill stones (2"-dia. river rock is seen
here). Smooth the stones with a garden rake. The infill should be
below the tops of the stepping stones. Reserve about 1/3 of the
larger diameter rocks.

Image
Add the smaller infill stones that will migrate down and fill in
around the larger infill rocks. To help settle the rocks, you can tamp
lightly with a hand tamper, but don’t get too aggressive—the larger
rocks might fracture easily.
 Image
Scatter the remaining large infill stones across the infill area so
they float on top of the other stones. Eventually, they will sink down
lower in the pathway and you will need to lift and replace them
selectively to maintain the original appearance.
 VARIATIONS
Image
Move from a formal space to a less orderly area of your landscape
by creating a pathway that begins with closely spaced steppers on
the formal end and gradually transforms into a mostly-gravel path on
the casual end, with only occasional clusters of steppers.

Image
Combine concrete stepping pavers with crushed rock or other
small stones for a path with a cleaner, more contemporary look.
Follow the same basic techniques used on these two pages, setting
the pavers first, then filling in between with the desired infill
material(s).
SANDSET BRICK WALKWAY

S andset brick is a good choice of material for a walkway for

the same reasons that make it a great patio surface—it’s easy
to work with, it lends itself equally well to traditional paving
patterns and creative custom designs, and it can be installed at a
leisurely pace because there’s no mortar or wet concrete involved.
The timeless look of natural clay brick is especially well-suited to
walkways, where the rhythmic patterns of geometric lines create a
unique sense of movement that draws your eye down the path
toward its destination.
In this walkway project, all of the interior (field) bricks are
arranged in the installation area and then the curving side edges of
the walk are marked onto the set bricks to ensure perfect cutting
lines. After the edge bricks are cut and reset, border bricks are
installed followed by rigid paver edging to keep everything in
place. This is the most efficient method for installing a curving
path. Straight walkways can follow the standard process of
installing the edging and border bricks (on one or both sides of the
path, as applicable) before laying the field brick, as is done in the
brick patio project.
With standard brick, you’ll need to set the gaps with spacers cut
from 1/8-inch hardboard, as shown in this project.

Image
A curving brick walkway can be as much a design statement as a
course for easy travel. Curves require more time than straight
designs, due to the extra cutting involved, but the results can be all
the more stunning.
 Tools & Materials
Tape measure
3/4" braided rope
Marking paint
Excavation tools
Plate compactor
Mason’s string
Stakes
Hand tamp
2- or 4-ft. level
Drill bits
Rubber mallet
Straightedge
Trowel
Masonry saw
Push broom
1 × 2 or 2 × 2 lumber
Compactable gravel
Straight 2 × 4
Duct tape
Coarse sand
Landscape fabric
Landscape staples
Brick paver units
Plastic patio edging
1/8" hardboard
Paver joint sand
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
12" galvanized spikes
Maul
 HOW TO INSTALL A SANDSET BRICK
WALKWAY
Image
Lay out the walkway curved edges using 3/4" braided rope (or use
mason’s strings for straight sections; shown as variation). Cut 1 × 2
or 2 × 2 spacers to the desired path width and then place them in-
between the ropes for consistent spacing. Mark the outlines along
the inside edges of the ropes onto the ground with marking paint.

Image
Excavate the area 6" outside of the marked lines along both sides
of the path. Remove soil to allow for a 4"-thick subbase of gravel, a
1" layer of sand, and the thickness of the brick pavers (minus the
height of the finished paving above the ground). The finished paving
typically rests about 1" aboveground for ease of lawn maintenance.
Thoroughly tamp the area with a plate compactor.

Image
Spread out an even layer of compactable gravel—enough for a
4"-thick layer after compaction. Grade the gravel to follow a
downward slope of 1/4" per foot (most long walkways slope from side
to side, while shorter paths or walkway sections can be sloped along
their length). Use a homemade slope gauge to screed the gravel
smooth and to check the slope as you work (see step 5, page 43).
Tamp the subbase thoroughly with the plate compactor, making sure
the surface is flat and smooth and properly sloped.

Image
Cover the gravel base with professional-grade landscape fabric,
overlapping the strips by at least 6". If desired, tack the fabric in
place with landscape staples.

Image
Spread a 1"-layer of coarse sand over the landscape fabric.
Screed the sand with a board so it is smooth, even, and flat.

Image
Tamp the screeded sand with a hand tamper or a plate compactor.
Check the slope of the surface as you go.

Image
Begin the paving at one end of the walkway, following the desired
pattern. Use 1/8"-thick hardboard spacers in-between the bricks to
set the sand-joint gaps. Tip: It’s best to start the paving against a
straightedge or square corner. If your walkway does not connect to a
patio or stoop, set a temporary 2 × 4 with stakes at the end of the
walkway to create a straight starting line.

Image
Option: If your walkway includes long straight sections between
curves, set up guidelines with stakes and mason’s strings to keep
the ends of the courses straight as you pave.

Image
Set the next few courses of brick, running them long over the side
edges. With the first few courses in place, tap the bricks with a
rubber mallet to bed them into the sand.

Image
Lay out the curved edges of the finished walkway using 3/4"
braided rope. Adjust the ropes as needed so that the cut bricks will
be roughly symmetrical on both edges of the walkway. Also measure
between the ropes to make sure the finished width will be accurate
according to your layout. Trace along the ropes with a pencil to mark
the cutting lines onto the bricks.

Image
Variation: Cut field bricks after installing the edging. Mark each brick
for cutting by hlding it in position and drawing the cut line across the
top face.

Image
Cut the bricks with a rented masonry saw (wet saw), following the
instructions from the tool supplier. Make straight cuts with a single,
full-depth cut. Curved cuts require multiple straight cuts made
tangentially to the cutting line. After cutting a brick, reset it before
cutting the next brick.

Image
Align the border bricks (if applicable) snug against the edges of
the field paving. Use a straightedge or level to make sure the border
units are flush with the tops of the field bricks. Set the border bricks
with a rubber mallet. Dampen the exposed edges of the sand bed,
and then use a trowel to slice away the edge so it’s flush with the
paving.

Image
Install rigid paver edging (bendable) (see page 49) or other edge
material tight against the outside of the walkway.

Image
Fill and tamp the sand joints one or more times until the joints are
completely filled. Sweep up any loose sand.
 Image
Soak the surface with water and let it dry. Cover the edging sides
with soil and sod or other material, as desired.
POURED CONCRETE WALKWAY

I f you’ve always wanted to try your hand at creating with

concrete, an outdoor walkway is a great project to start with. The
basic elements and construction steps of a walkway are similar to
those of a poured concrete patio or other landscape slab, but the
smaller scale of a walkway makes it a much more manageable
project for first-timers. Placing the wet concrete goes faster, and
you can easily reach the center of the surface for finishing from
either side of the walkway.
Like a patio slab, a poured concrete walkway also makes a good
foundation for mortared surface materials, like pavers, stone, and
tile. If that’s your goal, be sure to account for the thickness of the
surface material when planning and laying out the walkway height.
A coarse broomed or scratched finish on the concrete will help
create a strong bond with the mortar bed of the surface material.
The walkway in this project is a 4-inch-thick by 26-inch-wide
concrete slab with a broom finish for slip resistance. It consists of
two straight, 12-ft.-long runs connected by a 90 degree elbow. After
curing, the walkway can be left bare for a classic, low-maintenance
surface, or it can be colored with a permanent acid stain. When
planning your walkway project, consult your city’s building
department for recommendations and construction requirements.

Image
Poured concrete walkways can be designed with straight lines,
curves, or any angles you desire. The flat, hardwearing surface is
ideal for frequently traveled paths and will stand up to heavy
equipment and decades of snow shoveling.
 Tools & Materials
Drill, bits
Circular saw
Mason’s string
Line level
Excavation tools
2- or 4-ft. level
Plate compactor
Heavy-duty wire cutters or bolt cutters
Concrete mixing tools
Shovel
Hammer
Magnesium float
Edger tool
Groover tool
Magnesium trowel
Push broom
Lumber (2 × 2, 2 × 4)
Drywall screws (21/2", 31/2")
7/16" hardboard siding
Compactable gravel
6 × 6" 10/10 welded wire mesh (wwm)
Tie wire
2" bolsters
Isolation board and construction adhesive
Release agent
4,000 psi concrete (or as required by local code)
Clear polyethylene sheeting
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
4" deck screws
#3 rebar (optional)
Wood stakes
Tape measure
 SLOPING A WALKWAY
Image
Straight slope: Set the concrete form lower on one side of the walk-
way so the finished surface is flat and slopes downward at a rate of
1/4" per foot. Always slope the surface away from the house
foundation or, when not near the house, toward the area best suited
to accept water runoff.

Image
Crowned slope: When a walkway does not run near the house
foundation, you have the option of crowning the surface so it slopes
down to both sides. To make the crown, construct a curved screed
board by cutting a 2 × 2 and a 2 × 4 long enough to rest on both
sides of the concrete form. Sandwich the boards together with a 1/4"-
thick spacer at each end, then fasten the assembly with 4" deck
screws driven at the center and the ends. Use the board to screed
the concrete (see step 8, page 76).
 REINFORCING A WALKWAY
Image
As an alternative to the wire mesh reinforcement used in the
following project, you can reinforce a walkway slab with metal rebar
(check with the local building code requirements). For a 3-ft.-wide
walkway, lay two sections of #3 rebar spaced evenly inside the
concrete form. Bend the rebar as needed to follow curves or angles.
Overlap pieces by 12" and tie them together with tie wire. Use wire
bolsters to suspend the bar in the middle of the slab’s thickness.
 HOW TO INSTALL A POURED CONCRETE
WALKWAY
Image
Lay out the precise edges of the finished walkway using stakes (or
batterboards) and mason’s string (see pages 43 to 47 for additional
help with setting up and using layout strings). Where possible, set
stakes 12" or so outside of the walkway edges so they’re out of the
way. Make sure any 90° corners are square using the 3-4-5
measuring technique. Level the strings, then lower the strings on one
side of the layout to create a downward slope of 1/4" per foot (if the
walkway will be crowned instead of sloped to one side, keep all
strings level with one another. Cut away the sod or other plantings 6"
beyond the layout lines on all sides of the site.

Image
Excavate the site for a 4- to 6"-thick gravel subbase, plus any
subgrade (below ground level) portion of the slab, as desired.
Measure the depth with a story pole (see page 45) against the high-
side layout strings, making sure to use a slope gauge to grade the
slope 1/4" per foot away from foundations. Tamp the soil thoroughly
with a plate compactor.

Image
Cover the site with a 4- to 6"-layer of gravel and screed the surface
flat, checking with a slope gauge to set the proper grade. Compact
the gravel so the top surface is 4" below the finished walkway height.
Reset the layout strings at the precise height of the finished walkway.

Image
Build the concrete form with straight 2 × 4 lumber so the inside
faces of the form are aligned with the strings. Drive 2 × 4 stakes for
reinforcement behind butt joints. Align the form with the layout
strings, and then drive stakes at each corner and every 2 to 3 ft. in
between. Fasten the form to the stakes so the top inside corner of
the form boards are just touching the layout strings. The tops of the
stakes should be just below the tops of the form.

Image
Add curved strips made from 1/4- to 3/8"-thick plywood hardboard or
lauan to create curved corners, if desired. Secure curved strips by
screwing them to wood stakes. Recheck the gravel bed inside the
concrete form, making sure it is smooth and properly sloped.

Image
Lay reinforcing wire mesh over the gravel base, keeping the edges
1 to 2" from the insides of the form. Overlap the mesh strips by 6"
(one square) and tie them together with tie wire. Prop up the mesh
on 2" bolsters placed every few feet and tied to the mesh with wire.
Install isolation board where the walkway adjoins other slabs or
structures. When you’re ready for the concrete pour, coat the insides
of the form with a release agent or vegetable oil.

Image
Drop the concrete in pods, starting at the far end of the walkway.
Distribute it around the form by placing it (don’t throw it) with a
shovel. As you fill, stab into the concrete with the shovel, and tap a
hammer against the back sides of the form to eliminate air pockets.
Continue until the form is evenly filled, slightly above the tops of the
form.

Image
Immediately screed the surface with a straight 2 × 4: two people
pull the board backward in a side-to-side sawing motion with the
board resting on top of the form. As you work, shovel in extra
concrete to fill low spots or remove concrete from high spots, and re-
screed. The goal is to create a flat surface that’s level with the top of
the form.

Image
Float the concrete surface with a magnesium float, working back
and forth in broad arching strokes. Tip up the leading edge of the tool
slightly to prevent gouging the surface. Stop floating once the
surface is relatively smooth and has a wet sheen. Be careful not to
over-float, indicated by water pooling on the surface. Allow the bleed
water to disappear and the concrete to harden sufficiently (see page
144).

Image
Use an edger to shape the side edges of the walkway along the
wood form. Carefully run the edger back and forth along the form to
create a smooth, rounded corner, lifting the leading edge of the tool
slightly to prevent gouging.

Image
Mark the locations of the control joints onto the top edges of the
form boards, spacing the joints at intervals 11/2 times the width of the
walkway.

Image
Cut the control joints with a 1" groover guided by a straight 2 × 4
held (or fastened) across the form at the marked locations. Make
several light passes back and forth until the groove reaches full
depth, lifting the leading edge of the tool to prevent gouging.
Remove the guide board once each joint is complete. If desired,
smooth out the marks made by the groover using a magnesium
trowel.

Image
Create a nonslip surface with a broom finish: starting at the far side
edge of the walkway, steadily drag a broom backward over the
surface in a straight line using a single pulling motion. Repeat in
single, parallel passes (with minimal or no overlap), and rinse off the
broom bristles after each pass. The stiffer and coarser the broom,
the rougher the texture will be.

Image
Cure the concrete by misting the walkway with water, then covering
it with clear polyethylene sheeting. Smooth out any air pockets
(which can cause discoloration), and weight down the sheeting along
the edges. Mist the surface and reapply the plastic daily for 1 to 2
weeks.
DECORATIVE CONCRETE PATH

A well-made walkway or garden path not only stands up to

years of hard use, it enhances the natural landscape and
complements a home’s exterior features. While traditional walkway
materials like brick and stone have always been prized for both
appearance and durability, most varieties are quite pricey and often
difficult to install. As an easy and inexpensive alternative, you can
build a new concrete path using manufactured forms. The result is a
beautiful pathway that combines the custom look of brick or
natural stone with all the durability and economy of poured
concrete.
Building a path is a great do-it-yourself project. Once you’ve
laid out the path, you mix the concrete, set and fill the form, then
lift off the form to reveal the finished design. After a little
troweling to smooth the surfaces, you’re ready to create the next
section—using the same form. Simply repeat the process until the
path is complete. Each form creates a section that’s approximately
two square feet using one 80-lb. bag of premixed concrete. This
project shows you all the basic steps for making any length of
pathway, plus special techniques for making curves, adding a
custom finish, or coloring the concrete to suit your personal design.

Image
Concrete path molds are available in a range of styles and
decorative patterns. Coloring the wet concrete is a great way to add
a realistic look to the path design.

Tools & Materials

Excavation and site preparation tools
Concrete mold
Wheelbarrow or mixing box
Shovel
Margin trowel or concrete finishing trowel
Fiber-reinforced concrete mix
Work gloves
Liquid concrete colorant
Clear polyethylene sheeting
Polymer-modified jointing sand or mortar mix
Compactable gravel (optional)
Level
Broom or stiff brush
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO CREATE A STRAIGHT OR 90°
DECORATIVE CONCRETE PATH
Image
Prepare the project site by leveling the ground, removing sod or
soil as needed. For a more durable base, excavate the area and add
2 to 4" of compactable gravel. Grade and compact the gravel layer
so it is level and flat. See pages 42 to 47 for detailed steps on layout
and site preparation.

Image
Mix a batch of concrete for the first section, following the product
directions (see page 80 to add color, as we have done here). Place
the form at the start of your path and level it, if desired. Shovel the
wet concrete into the form to fill each cavity. Consolidate and smooth
the surface of the form using a concrete margin trowel.

Image
Promptly remove the form, and then trowel the edges of the
section to create the desired finish (it may help to wet the trowel in
water). For a nonslip surface, broom the section or brush it with a
stiff brush. Place the form against the finished section and repeat
steps 2 and 3 to complete the next section.

Image
After removing each form, remember to trowel the edges of the
section to create the desired finish. Repeat until the path is finished.
If desired, rotate the form 90° with each section to vary the pattern.
Cure the path by covering it with polyethylene sheeting for 5 to 7
days, lifting the plastic and misting the concrete with water each day.
 Image
Fill walkway joints with sand or mortar mix to mimic the look of
hand-laid stone or brick. Sweep the sand or dry mortar into the
section contours and spaces between sections. For mortar, mist the
joints with water so they harden in place.

Custom Surfacing Tip

Image
Create custom surface finishes by pressing small stones or pea gravel
into the wet concrete or by brushing on a layer of sand. Apply finish
materials after the concrete has reached its initial set (thumb print hard)
but is still damp—approximately one hour after placing.

Coloring Your Concrete

Adding colorant to the concrete mix is the easiest method and produces
consistent results:

1. Combine liquid concrete colorant with water and mix into each bag-
quantity of dry concrete mix, following the manufacturer’s
instructions. Blend thoroughly for consistent coloring, then add
clean water to the mix, as needed, to achieve the proper consistency
for pouring the concrete.
2. After placing and finishing the path sections, cure the concrete
carefully to produce the best color quality. If curing conditions will
be less than ideal, apply concrete sealer to ensure slow, even curing
and good coloring.

Image
Coloring gives molded concrete a more natural-looking finish and is
great for blending your path or walkway into your landscape design.
 HOW TO CREATE A CURVED DECORATIVE
CONCRETE PATH
Image
After removing the form from a freshly poured section (see page
79, steps 1 through 3), reposition the form in the direction of the
curve and press down to slice off the inside corner of the section
(photo left). Trowel the cut edge (and the rest of the section) to finish.
Pour the next section following the curve (photo right). Cut off as
many sections as needed to complete the curve. Cure the path by
covering it with plastic sheeting for 5 to 7 days, lifting the plastic and
misting the concrete with water each day.

Image
Sprinkle the area around the joint or joints between pavers with
polymer-modified jointing sand after the concrete has cured
sufficiently so that the sand does not adhere. Sweep the product into
the gap to clean the paver surfaces while filling the gap.

Image
Mist the jointing sand with clean water, taking care not to wash
the sand out of the joint. Once the water dries, the polymers in the
mixture will have hardened the sand to look like a mortar joint.
Refresh as needed.
MORTARED BRICK OVER A CONCRETE
PATH

I f you’re looking to make over an aging concrete walkway, you

can’t beat the looks and performance of mortared brick paving.
The flat, finished surface is ideal for both heavy foot traffic and
garden equipment and is nearly as maintenance-free as plain
concrete, while the formal elegance of brick is a dramatic upgrade
over a timeworn, gray slab. If your plans include new paving over
an old concrete patio, a walkway is also the perfect opportunity to
develop your skills before tackling the larger patio surface—the
materials and techniques are the same for both applications.
Start your walkway project with a careful examination of the
concrete path: as the structural foundation of your new surface, the
concrete must be stable and relatively flat. Large cracks and uneven
surfaces indicate movement of the concrete structure, often due to
problems with the gravel base and/or inadequate drainage under the
slab. Since these ailments won’t go away with the new paving, you
can either decide to replace the old concrete with a newly poured
walkway or consider a mortarless surface, such as sandset brick.
With that in mind, minor surface problems, such as fine cracks and
cosmetic flaws, will not likely affect new mortared paving.
When shopping for pavers, consider the added height of the new
surface, the paving pattern you desire, and the material of the
pavers themselves. Natural clay brick pavers are available in
standard (approximately 23/8 inches) and thinner (approximately
11/2 inches) thicknesses. Concrete pavers are installed using the
same techniques, and they come in a range of sizes, thicknesses,
and shapes. In any case, be sure to choose straight-sided pavers, as
irregular or interlocking shapes make for unnecessarily tricky
mortar work. Consult with knowledgeable staff at your masonry
supplier to learn about paver materials and mortar suitable for your
project and the local climate.

Image
The natural, warm color of brick is a dramatic yet DIY-friendly
upgrade for a tired looking gray slab.

Tools & Materials

Shovel
Mortar mixing tools
Mason’s trowel
V-shaped mortar tool (jointing tool)
Rubber mallet
4-ft. level
Mortar bag
Type S mortar (or other recommended type)
Coarse rag
Brick or concrete pavers
1/2" plywood
Straight 2 × 4 or 2 × 6
Clear polyethylene sheeting
Eye and ear protection
Various work gloves
 HOW TO INSTALL MORTARED BRICK OVER
A CONCRETE PATH
Image
Dig a trench around the concrete path, slightly wider than the
thickness of one paver. Dig the trench so it is about 31/2" below the
concrete surface (for standard-sized pavers).

Image
Sweep the old concrete, then hose off the surface and sides with
water to clear away dirt and debris. Soak the pavers with water
before mortaring; dry pavers absorb moisture, weakening the mortar
strength. Mix a small batch of mortar according to manufacturer’s
directions. For convenience, place the mortar on a scrap of plywood.

Image
Install edging bricks by applying a 1/2"-layer of mortar to the side of
the concrete slab and to one side of each brick. Set bricks into the
trench, against the concrete. Brick edging should be 1/2" higher than
the thickness of the brick pavers.

Image
Finish the joints on the edging bricks with a V-shaped mortar tool,
then mix and apply a 1/2"-thick bed of mortar to one end of the
sidewalk using a trowel. Mortar hardens very quickly, so work in
sections no larger than 4 sq. ft.

Image
Make a screed board for smoothing the mortar by notching the
ends of a straight 2 × 4 or 2 × 6 to fit between the edging bricks. The
depth of the notches should equal the thickness of the pavers. Drag
the screed across the mortar bed until the mortar is smooth.

Image
Lay the paving bricks one at a time into the mortar, maintaining a
1/2" gap between pavers. (A piece of scrap plywood works well as a
spacing guide.) Set the pavers by tapping them lightly with a rubber
mallet.

Image
As each section of pavers is completed, check with a
straightedge or level to make sure the tops of the pavers are even. If
a paver is too high, press it down or tap it with the rubber mallet; if
too low, lift it out and butter its back face with mortar and reset it.

Image
When all the pavers are installed, use a mortar bag to fill the joints
between the pavers with fresh mortar. Work in 4-sq.-ft. sections, and
avoid getting mortar on the tops of the pavers.

Image
Use a V-shaped mortar tool to finish the joints as you complete
each 4 sq.-ft. section. For best results, finish the longer joints first,
then the shorter joints. Use a trowel to remove excess mortar.

Image
Let the mortar dry for a few hours, then scrub the pavers with a
coarse rag and water. Cover the walkway with polyethylene sheeting
and let the mortar cure for at least 24 hours. Remove sheeting, but
do not walk on the pavers for at least three days.

Image
Variation: As an alternative to paving over an entire walkway (if the
old concrete still looks good), add a decorative touch with a border of
mortared pavers along the edges. The same treatment is great for
dressing up the exposed edges of a concrete patio, stoop, or steps.
To install edging along a walkway, follow the basic techniques shown
in steps 1 to 4 on page 83, but set the pavers flush with the walkway
surface. Position the pavers horizontally or vertically, depending on
the height of the walkway and the desired effect. After the pavers are
set and tooled, follow step 10 above to complete the job.
BOARDWALK DECK ON A SLAB

T here’s no need to let a cracked, aging concrete patio ruin the

look and enjoyment of your backyard. You can build a very
simple deck platform right over the failing slab with very little
effort or expense. Make no mistake though, the result will be a
beautiful new outdoor platform that improves the look of the home
and the yard.
This is an independent deck; the structure is not attached to the
house, but is instead laid atop the slab and allowed to move with
any shifting in the concrete. It’s constructed on a simple frame base
laid level with sleepers over the concrete itself. This means that the
deck will be very close to the ground and subject to a great deal of
moisture. Only certain types of decking will tolerate those
conditions. We’ve used pressure-treated pine deckboards.
The design of the deck is a plain rectangle and can easily be
constructed over a weekend. We’ve spruced up the look a bit by
laying the decking in a standard “Boardwalk” pattern. More
complex patterns would make the deck surface look even more
impressive—just remember to do yourself a favor and work the
patterns out on graph paper before cutting any decking. Proper
planning will inevitably save a lot of waste.

Image

Image
Turn a boring or failing concrete slab into an attractive walkout or
entertainment space with a short utility or “Boardwalk” deck installed
on top of it.
Cutaway View

Supplies
Galvanized metal corner brackets (16)
2" and 3" galvanized deck screws
2" composite shims
Circular saw
Miter saw
Power drill and bits
Treated lumber (2 × 4 and 2 × 2)
Caulk gun and glue
Level
8" plastic shims
Chalk line
Stain
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Cutting List
Key A
Qty 3
Size 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 128"
Part Frame side
Material PT pine

Key B
Qty 2
Size 1 1/2 × 1 1/2 × 128"
Part Nailer
Material PT pine
Key C
Qty 2
Size 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 76"
Part Frame end
Material PT pine

Key D
Qty 60
Size 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × (cut to fit)
Part Decking
Material PT pine

Image
 HOW TO BUILD A BOARDWALK DECK
Image
Build and assemble the frame offsite by cutting and measuring
10-ft. 2 × 4s to length and securing them together with galvanized
metal corner brackets.

Image
Install the nailer joists by measuring and cutting parallel boards to
the length of the frame. Use 2" deck screws and galvanized metal
corner brackets to secure the nailer joists to the frame.

Image
Clear away any dust and debris from the concrete slab. Set the
frame atop the slab and use 8" plastic shims to level it. Glue shims in
place and cut off excess so shims are flush with the frame.

Image
Use a level as you work with the shims to ensure an even plane on
which to build the deck.

Image
Remove the frame from the slab before installing the decking.
Stagger the 2 × 4s in a crosshatch pattern in opposing 45° angles
from the center nailing joist. Attach the boardwalk pattern to the
frame using 3" deck screws. Boards should abut one another the
length of the joist and allow for at least 1" of overhang from the
frame.

Image
Mark 1" overhang on all sides of the frame using a chalk line, and
cut off excess decking using a circular saw equipped with a carbide
blade.

Image
Use a helper to install the decking atop the concrete slab, checking
for level and using shims to adjust as necessary.

Image
Clear away dust and debris and stain the decking as desired.

Image
Here we use gravel (small aggregate river rock), a common surface
for paths and rock gardens, for the tread surfaces. Other tread
surfaces include bricks, cobbles, and stepping stones. Even large
flagstones can be fit to the tread openings.
TIMBER GARDEN STEPS

T imberframed steps provide a delightfully simple and

structurally satisfying way to manage slopes. They are usually
designed with shallow steps that have long runs and large tread
areas, that can be filled with a variety of materials. Two popular
methods are shown here—gravel and with poured concrete. Other
tread surfaces you might consider are bricks, cobbles, and stepping
stones. Even large flagstones can be cut to fit the tread openings.
Timber steps needn’t follow the straight and narrow, either. You
can vary the lengths of the left and right returns to create swooping
helical steps that suggest spiral staircases. Or, increase the length of
both returns to create a broad landing on which to set pots or
accommodate a natural flattening of the slope. Want to soften the
steps? Use soil as a base near the sides of the steps and plant herbs
or ground cover. Or for a spring surprise, plant daffodils under a
light pea gravel top dressing at the edges of the steps.
Timber steps don’t require a frost footing, because the wooden
joints flex with the earth rather than crack like solid concrete steps
would. However, it’s a good idea to include some underground
anchoring to keep loose muddy soil from pushing the steps
forward. To provide long-term stability, the gravel-filled steps
shown here are secured to a timber cleat at the base of the slope,
while the concrete-filled steps are anchored at the base with long
sections of pipe driven into the ground.
Designing steps is an important part of the process. Determine
the total rise and run of the hill and translate this into a step size
that conforms to this formula: 2× (rise) + run = 26 inches. Your
step rise will equal your timber width, which can range from
approximately 31/2 inches (for 4 × 4 timbers or 4 × 6 on the flat) to
71/4 inches or 71/2 inches (for 8 × 8 timbers). As with any steps, be
sure to keep the step size consistent so people don’t trip.

Tools & Materials

Supplies for Timber & Gravel Steps:
Marking paint
Mason’s string
Level
Excavation tools
Hand tamp
Circular saw
Hand saw
Speed square
Shovel
Framing square
Drill and 3/8" bit with long shaft
Sledgehammer
Wood stakes
Compactable gravel
2 × 4 lumber
Landscape timbers
3/8" landscape spikes
Gravel
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO BUILD TIMBER & GRAVEL
GARDEN STEPS
Image
Install and level the timber cleat: mark the outline of the steps onto
the ground using marking paint. Dig a trench for the cleat at the base
of the steps. Add 2 to 4" of compactable gravel in the trench and
compact it with a hand tamp. Cut the cleat to length and set it into
the trench. Add or remove gravel beneath the cleat so it is level and
its top is even with the surrounding ground or path surface.

Image
Create trenches filled with tamped gravel for the returns (the
timbers running back into the hill, perpendicular to the cleat and
risers). The returns should be long enough to anchor the riser and
returns of the step above. Dig trenches back into the hill for the
returns and compact 2 to 4" of gravel into the trenches so each
return will sit level on the cleat and gravel.
 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS: TIMBER STEP
FRAMES
Image

Cutting Timbers

Image
Large landscape timbers (6 × 6" and bigger) can be cut accurately and squarely with
a circular saw, even though the saw’s cutting capacity isn’t big enough to do the job
completely. First, draw cutting lines on all four sides of the timber using a speed square
as guide. Next, cut along the line on all four sides with the saw set for maximum blade
depth. Finally, use a hand saw to finish the cut. For most DIYers, this will yield a
straighter cut than saws that can make the cut in one pass, such as a reciprocating
saw.

Image
Cut and position the returns and the first riser. Using a 2 × 4 as a
level extender, check to see if the backs of the returns are level with
each other and adjust by adding or removing gravel in the trenches.
Drill four 3/8"-dia. holes and fasten the first riser and the two returns
to the cleat with spikes.

Image
Excavate and add tamped gravel for the second set of returns. Cut
and position the second riser across the ends of the first returns,
leaving the correct unit run between the riser faces. Note that only
the first riser doesn’t span the full width of the steps. Cut and position
the returns, check for level, then pre-drill and spike the second riser
and returns to the returns below.
 Image
Build the remaining steps in the same fashion. As you work, it may
be necessary to alter the slope with additional excavating or
backfilling (few natural hills follow a uniform slope). Add or remove
soil as needed along the sides of the steps so that the returns are
exposed roughly equally on both sides. Also, each tread should
always be higher than the neighboring ground.

Image
Install the final riser. Typically, the last timber does not have returns
because its tread surface is integral with the path or surrounding
ground. The top of this timber should be slightly higher than the
ground. As an alternative, you can use returns to contain pathway
material at the top of the steps.

Image
Lay and tamp a base of compactable gravel in each step tread
area. Use a 2 × 4 as a tamper. For proper compaction, tamp the
gravel in 2" or thinner layers before adding more. Leave about 2" of
space in each tread for the surface material.

Image
Fill up the tread areas with gravel or other appropriate material.
Irregular crushed gravel offers maximum surface stability, while
smooth stones, like the river rock seen here, blend into the
environment more naturally and feel better underfoot than crushed
gravel and stone.

Image
Create or improve pathways at the top and bottom of the steps.
For a nice effect, build a loose-fill walkway using the same type of
gravel that you used for the steps. Install a railing, if desired or if
required by the local building code.
 HOW TO BUILD TIMBER & CONCRETE
GARDEN STEPS
Image
Mark the sides of the step site with stakes and string. The stakes
should be positioned at the front edge of the bottom step and the
back edge of the top step.

Image
Add the width of the timber (5") to the tread depth, then measure
back this distance for the stakes and drive additional stakes to mark
the back edge of the first step. Connect these stakes with string to
mark the digging area for the first step.

Image
Excavate for the first step, creating a flat bed with a very slight
forward slope, no more than 1/8" from back to front. The front of the
excavation should be no more than 2" deep. Tamp the soil firmly.

Tools & Materials

Supplies for Timber & Concrete Steps:
Mason’s string
Tape measure
Excavation tools
Saw
Level
Drill and 1" space bit with bit extension
Maul
Rake
Wheelbarrow
 Trowel
Hoe
Wood float
Concrete edging tool
Stiff brush
Hand tamp
Carpenters’ square
Wood stakes
5 × 6 landscape timbers
1" pipe
12" galvanized spikes
Plastic sheeting
Compactable gravel
2 × 4 lumber
Premixed concrete
Seed gravel (1/2")
Burlap
Muriatic acid
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Image
Arrange the timbers to form the step frame and endnail them
together with 12" spikes.

Image
Set the timber frame in position. Use a carpenter’s square to
make sure the frame is square, and adjust as necessary. Drill two 1"
guide holes in the front timber and the back timber, 1 ft. from the
ends, using a spade bit and bit extension.
 Image
Anchor the steps to the ground by driving a 21/2-ft. length of 3/4"
pipe through each guide hole until the pipe is flush with the timber.
When pipes are driven, make sure the frame is level from side to
side and has the proper forward pitch. Excavate for the next step,
making sure the bottom of the excavation is even with the top edge
of the installed timbers.

Image
Build another step frame and position it in the excavation so the
front timber is directly over the rear timber on the first frame. Nail the
steps together with three 12" spikes, then drill guide holes and drive
two pipes through only the back timber to anchor the second frame.

Image
Continue digging and installing the remaining frames until the
steps reach full height. The back of the last step should be at ground
level.

Image
Staple plastic over the timbers to protect them from wet concrete.
Cut away the plastic so it does not overhang into the frame opening.

Image
Pour a 2" layer of compactable gravel subbase into each frame,
and use a 2 × 4 to smooth it out.

Image
Mix concrete in a wheelbarrow, adding just enough water so the
concrete holds its shape when sliced with a trowel.

Image
Shovel concrete into the bottom frame, flush with the top of the
timbers. Work the concrete lightly with a garden rake to help remove
air bubbles, but do not overwork the concrete.

Image
Screed the concrete by dragging a 2 × 4 across the top of the
frame. If necessary, add concrete to low areas and screed again until
the surface is smooth and free of low spots.

Image
While the concrete is still wet, scatter mixed gravel on the surface.
Sand-and-gravel suppliers and garden centers sell colorful gravel
designed for seeding. For best results, select a mixture with stones
no larger than 1/2" in diameter.

Image
Press the seeded gravel into the surface of the concrete using a
concrete float, until the tops of the stone are flush with the surface of
the concrete. Remove any concrete that spills over the edges of the
frame using a trowel.

Image
Pour concrete into the remaining steps, screeding and seeding
each step before moving on to the next. For a neater appearance,
use an edging tool (inset) to smooth the cracks between the timbers
and the concrete as each step is finished.

Image
When the sheen disappears from the poured concrete (4 to 6
hours after pouring), use a float to smooth out any high or low spots
in each step. Be careful not to force seeded gravel too far into the
concrete. Let the concrete dry overnight.
 Image
After concrete has dried overnight, apply a fine mist of water to
the surface, then scrub it with a stiff brush to expose the seeded
gravel.

Image
Variation: To create a nonslip surface on smooth concrete without
seeding, draw a stiff-bristled brush or broom once across the
concrete while it is still wet.

Image
Remove the plastic from the timbers, and cover the concrete with
burlap. Allow the concrete to cure for several days, spraying it
occasionally with water to ensure even curing. Note: Concrete
residue can be cleaned from timbers using a solution of 5% muriatic
acid and water.
FLAGSTONE GARDEN STEPS

F lagstone steps are perfect structures for managing natural

slopes. Our design consists of broad flagstone treads and
blocky ashlar risers, commonly sold as wall stone. The risers are
prepared with compactable gravel beds on which the flagstone
treads rest. For the project featured here, we purchased both the
flagstone and the wall stone in their natural split state (as opposed
to sawn). It may seem like overkill, but you should plan on
purchasing 40 percent more flagstone, by square foot coverage,
than your plans say you need. The process of fitting the stones
together involves a lot of cutting and waste.
The average height of your risers is defined by the height of the
wall stone available to you. These rough stones are separated and
sold in a range of thicknesses (such as 3 to 4 inches), but hand-
picking the stones helps bring them into a tighter range. The more
uniform the thicknesses of your blocks, the less shimming and
adjusting you’ll have to do. (Remember, all of the steps must be the
same size, to prevent a tripping hazard.) You will also need to stock
up on slivers of rocks to use as shims to bring your risers and
returns to a consistent height; breaking and cutting your stone
generally produces plenty of these.
Flagstone steps work best when you create the broadest possible
treads: think of them as a series of terraced patios. The goal, once
you have the stock in hand, is to create a tread surface with as few
stones as possible. This generally means you’ll be doing quite a bit
of cutting to get the irregular shapes to fit together. For a more
formal look, cut the flagstones along straight lines so they fit
together with small, regular gaps.
Image
Stone steps blend natural elegance and beauty for a stunning
landscape feature in any yard. Depending on how stylized the design
is and the type of stone (natural shaped or cut square), the steps can
enhance either a formal or casual outdoor living area.

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Mason’s string
Marking paint
Line level
Torpedo level
4-ft. level
Excavation tools
Maul
Hand tamp
Wood stakes
Lumber (2 × 4, 4× 4)
Straight 2 × 4
Landscape fabric
Compactable gravel
Coarse sand
Wall stone
Flagstone
Stone chisels
Stone and block adhesive
Rubber mallet
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Small brush
Spade
Granite or polymeric sand
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
Image

Step Variations

Image
Pave the slope. Sometimes the best solution for garden steps is simply to lay some
broad, flat rocks down on a pathway more or less as you find it. Make some effort to
ensure that the surface of each rock is relatively flat and safe to walk on. Do not use
this approach on steep slopes (greater than 2 in 12) or in heavily traveled areas.

Image
These terraces are made from large flagstone steppers supported by stacked riser
stones. They function as steps in managing the slope, but they look and feel more like
a split-level patio. For a natural look and the best visual effect, terrace-type steps
should mimic the topography of your yard.

Image
Cut stone blocks that are roughly uniform in size are laid in a step formation to create
a stately passageway up this small hill. A hand-formed mortar cap adorns the sides of
the outdoor stairway for a more finished appearance.

Image
Stacked slabs cannot be beat for pure simplicity, longevity, and ease of maintenance.
The initial cost is high, and stacking stones that weigh several hundred pounds (or
more) does require professionals with heavy equipment. But once these lovely garden
steps are in place they’ll stay put for generations with hardly any attention beyond a
simple hosing off.
 HOW TO BUILD FLAGSTONE GARDEN
STEPS
Image
Measure the height and length of the slope to calculate the rise
and run dimensions for each step (see page 23 for help with
designing and laying out steps). Plot the footprint of your steps on
the ground using marking paint. Purchase wall stones for your risers
and returns in a height equal to the rise of your steps. Also buy
flagstone (with approx. 40% overage) for the step treads.

Image
Begin the excavation: for the area under the first riser and return
stones, dig a trench to accommodate a 4"-layer of gravel, plus the
thickness of an average flagstone tread. For the area under the back
edge of the first step’s tread and the riser and return stones of the
second step, dig to accommodate a 4"-layer of gravel, plus a 1"-layer
of sand. Compact the soil with a 2 × 4 or 4 × 4.

Image
Add a layer of compactable gravel to within 1" of the planned
height and tamp. Add a top layer of compactable gravel and level it
side to side and back to front. This top layer should be a flagstone’s
thickness below grade. This will keep the rise of the first step the
same as the following steps. Leave the second layer of gravel
uncompacted for easy adjustment of the riser and return stones.

Image
Set the riser stones and one or two return stones onto the gravel
base. Level the riser stones side to side by adding or removing
gravel as needed. Level the risers front to back with a torpedo level.
Allow for a slight up-slope for the returns (the steps should slope
slightly downward from back to front so the treads will drain). Seat
the stones firmly in the gravel with a hand maul, protecting the stone
with a wood block.

Image
Line the excavated area for the first tread with landscape fabric,
draping it to cover the insides of the risers and returns. Add layers of
compactable gravel and tamp down to within 1" of the tops of the
risers and returns. Fill the remainder of the bed with sand and level it
side to side with a 2 × 4. Slope it slightly from back to front. This
layer of sand should be a little above the first risers and returns so
that the tread stones will compact down to sit on the wall stones.

Image
Set the second group of risers and returns: first, measure the
step/run distance back from the face of your first risers and set up a
level mason’s string across the sand bed. Position the second-step
risers and returns as you did for the first step, except these don’t
need to be dug in on the bottom because the bottom tread will
reduce the risers’ effective height.

Image
Fold the fabric over the tops of the risers and trim off the excess.
Set the flagstone treads of the first step like a puzzle, leaving a
consistent distance between stones. Use large, heavy stones with
relatively straight edges at the front of the step, overhanging the
risers by about 2".

Image
Fill in with smaller stones near the back. Cut and dress stones
where necessary using stone chisels and a maul or mason’s
hammer. Finding a good arrangement takes some trial and error.
Strive for fairly regular gaps, and avoid using small stones as they
are easily displaced. Ideally, all stones should be at least as large as
a dinner plate.

Image
Adjust the stones so the treads form a flat surface. Use a level as a
guide, and add wet sand under thinner stones or remove sand from
beneath thicker stones until all the flags come close to touching the
level and are stable.

Image
Shim between treads and risers with thin shards of stone. (Do not
use sand to shim here). Glue the shards in place with block and
stone adhesive. Check each step to make sure there is no path for
sand to wash out from beneath the treads. You can settle smaller
stones in sand with a mallet, but cushion your blows with a piece of
wood.

Image
Complete the second step in the same manner as the first. The
bottoms of the risers should be at the same height as the bottoms of
the tread on the step below. Continue building steps to the top of the
slope. Note: The top step often will not require returns.

Image
Fill the joints between stones with sand by sweeping the sand
across the treads. Use coarse, dark sand such as granite sand, or
choose polymeric sand, which resists washout better than regular
builder’s sand. Inspect the steps regularly for the first few weeks and
make adjustments to the heights of stones as needed.
SANDSET BRICK PATIO

T raditional clay brick pavers set in sand make for one of the
simplest yet most rewarding patio projects. The installation
process is straightforward and, because there’s no mortar involved,
you can complete the work at your own pace. The overall
installation time depends on the patio’s design.
Square-edged patios require fewer cuts and thus less time than
curved designs. But if you want something out of the ordinary,
sandset brick is a good material to work with—the small units are
perfect for making curves and custom features; even if you have a
lot of cuts, you can make them quickly and accurately with a rented
masonry saw.
To pave with any of the classic patterns, such as running bond or
herringbone, you’ll start at one corner of your patio border or
edging. To ensure accurate layout, check that the sides of the
edging form a 90-degree angle at the starting corner. If you’re not
using edging or any kind of formal border, set up mason’s strings to
guide the brick placement.
If you go with clay brick without spacing lugs, use spacers cut
from a sheet of 1/8-inch-thick hardboard to help set accurate sand-
joint gaps as you lay the units.

Image
Brick pavers set in sand create a classic patio surface that’s more
casual than mortared pavers. The inherent flexibility of the sandset
finish allows for easy repair and maintenance or changes in the
design over time. It also creates good drainage.

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Circular saw
Drill
Excavation tools
Mason’s string
Stakes
Line level
Plate compactor (available for rent)
Hand tamp
4-ft. level
Rubber mallet
Push broom
Brick paver units
Lumber (2 × 2, 2 × 4)
21/2" drywall screws
Compactable gravel
Work gloves
Professional-grade landscape fabric
U-shaped wire stakes (optional)
Rigid paver edging
1"-dia. pipe
Coarse sand
Straight 2 × 4
1/8" hardboard
Plywood scrap
Paver joint sand
Rake
Trowel
Masonry saw
Eye and ear protection
Maul
Galvanized spikes (for edging)
 HOW TO INSTALL A SANDSET BRICK PATIO
Image
Set up batterboards and layout strings in a square or rectangle
that’s about 1 ft. larger than the excavation area (see pages 42 to 47
for detailed steps on layout and site preparation). Measure to make
sure the string layout is square, and set the strings to follow a 1/8"
per foot downward slope in the desired direction using a line level for
guidance. Mark the excavation corners with stakes. The edges of the
excavation should extend about 6" beyond the finished patio
footprint.

Image
Remove all sod and vegetation inside the area, reserving healthy
sod for patching in around the finished patio.

Image
Excavate the area to a depth that allows for a 6"-thick gravel
subbase, a 1" layer of sand, and the paver thickness; account for the
desired height of the finished surface above the surrounding ground.
Use cross strings and a story pole to check the depth as you work.

Image
Add an even 3"-layer of compactable gravel over the entire site,
and then tamp with a plate compactor. Repeat with another 3" layer.
The completed 6" gravel base prior to compacting must be smooth
and flat, and it must follow the slope of the layout strings.

Image
Install a layer of high-quality landscape fabric. Overlap rows of
fabric by at least 6". If desired, pin the fabric in place with U-shaped
wire stakes.

Image
Install rigid paver edging along two adjacent sides of the patio
area, creating a perfect 90° corner. Option: If you’ve laid out the
pavers and taken precise measurements, you can install edging
along three or four sides of the patio, as desired. Trim the fabric
along the back of the edging. Lay down lengths of 1"-dia. pipe in
parallel lines about 3 to 6 ft. apart.

Image
Add a 1"-thick layer of coarse sand. Smooth it out with a rake so it
just covers the pipes. Dampen the sand with water, then pack it
down lightly with a hand tamp.

Image
Screed the sand perfectly flat using a straight, long 2 × 4: rest the
board on top of the pipes, and pull it backward with a side-to-side
sawing motion. Fill in low spots with sand as you work. Dampen,
tamp, and screed the sand again until the surface is smooth and flat
and firmly packed. Remove the pipe(s) in the area where you will
begin the paving.

Image
Fill the depression left by the pipe with sand, and then smooth it
out with a short board or a trowel. Tamp the area with the hand tamp,
and smooth again as needed so the filled-in area is perfectly flat.
Note: Repeat this step as needed during the paving process.

Image
Begin setting the border bricks, starting at the right-angle corner
of the patio edging, using 1/8" hardboard spacers if necessary.
Complete the border row that will be parallel to the first course of
field brick, and continue several feet up the perpendicular side edge.
For gentle curves, use full bricks set with slightly angled (wedge-
shaped) sand joints; tighter curves require cut bricks for a good fit.

Image
Set the first course of field brick. These bricks should be centered
over the sand joints of the completed border row. Use a mason’s
string tied between two bricks to align the leading edges of the first-
course bricks. After setting several bricks, tap them with a rubber
mallet to bed them into the sand layer. Complete the first field
course, and then add some border units along the edge.

Image
Snug a piece of edging against the installed brick and anchor it in
place. Note: Install the remaining edging as the paving progresses.
Continue setting the brick using the mason’s string and spacers for
consistent spacing and alignment.

Cutting Pavers & Bricks

Image
If your design requires cuts, use a masonry saw (tub saw). These
water-lubricated cutting tools are available for rent at most building
centers and stone yards.

Image
Check each 4-ft. section for level to make sure the bricks are even
across the top. Remove low or high bricks and add or remove sand
beneath to bring them flush with the surrounding bricks. Work atop a
plywood platform to prevent displacing the bricks. Complete the
paving.
 Image
Variation: If your patio design includes curves or rounded corners,
mark bricks for cutting curves by holding each brick in position and
marking the desired cutting line onto the top face, then make the
cuts with a masonry saw.

Image
Spread sand over the surface, then sweep the sand to fill the
joints. Sweep the surface clean, and then tamp the surface with the
plate compactor to settle the sand in the joints and lock the bricks in
place.

Image
Fill and tamp the sand joints one or more times until the joints are
completely filled after compaction. Sweep up any loose sand.

Image
Soak the surface with water and let it dry. If necessary, fill and
tamp again, then hose off the surface and let it dry.

More Paver Patterns

Image
90° herringbone patterns require bricks that are twice as long as they are wide. Start
the pattern with two bricks set in the corner of your edging (edging must form a precise
90° angle). Add half-bricks next to the ends of the first two bricks. Complete the next
row, zigzagging full bricks following the first row. Repeat the zigzag pattern for the
remaining field bricks, adding half-bricks at the ends of rows as needed.

Image
45° herringbone patterns require bricks that are twice as long as they are wide.
Starting from a precise 90° corner, set the first row with two right-angle half-bricks.
Complete the second row with two right-angle half-bricks flanking a full brick. Begin
each remaining field row zig-zagging full bricks and finishing with right-angle half-
bricks or trimmed bricks beveled at 45°.
 Image
Basketweave patterns require bricks that are twice as long as they are wide. To avoid
cuts (on square or rectangular patios), you can install edging on only one side and use
it as a baseline for the paving. Install the remaining three sides of edging after all
bricks are laid. Snap a chalk line down the center of the sand bed, making sure it is
perpendicular (90°) to the baseline edging. Working from the centerline out for each
section, lay bricks in a pyramid shape, setting 12 bricks total in the first row, 8 in the
second row, and 4 in the third row. Complete the paving by adding to each row
incrementally to maintain the pyramid shape. This ensures that every row stems from
the centerline to keep the layout straight.

s
Pinwheels allow you to avoid cuts (on square or rectangular patios) by installing
edging on only two adjacent sides, starting from a precise 90° corner. Install the
remaining edging after the paving is complete. Set each square pattern using four full
bricks, as shown here, then fill the center cavity with a half-brick. For added accent,
the centerpiece can be a unique color, but it must be the same thickness as the full
bricks. Do not use a thinner brick for the center and compensate for the difference with
additional sand; the brick will eventually sink and create an uneven surface.
COBBLESTONE PAVER PATIO

C oncrete pavers have advanced by leaps and bounds from the

monochromatic, cookie-cutter bricks and slabs associated
with first-generation versions. The latest products feature subtle
color blends that lend themselves well to organic, irregular
patterns. A tumbling process during manufacturing can further
“age” the pavers so they look more like natural cobblestones. The
technological advances in the casting and finishing processes have
become so sophisticated that a well-selected concrete paver patio
could look as suitable in a traditional European square as in a
suburban backyard.
When choosing pavers for a patio, pick a style and blend of
shapes and sizes that complements your landscape. Use the
materials used on your house’s exterior and other stone or masonry
in your yard to inform your decisions on colors and shade. Be
aware that some paver styles require set purchase amounts, and it’s
not always possible to return partially used pallets of material, so
order carefully.
In this project, we lay a cobblestone patio that uses three sizes of
pavers. Such pavers may be purchased by a fraction of a pallet, or
band, minimizing leftovers. We’ve also included a row of edge
pavers to create a pleasing border around the patio. When shopping
for your own patio materials, bring a drawing of your patio plans
with exact measurements to your stone yard or landscape supplier.
Based on your chosen pattern, the sales staff will be able to tell you
how much stone in each size you’ll need to purchase.
The patio in this project was created using the following sizes
and proportions of cobblestone concrete pavers:
 Field pavers—70 percent 6 × 9-inch cobble rectangles, 30
percent 6 × 6-inch cobble squares
Border pavers—3 × 6-inch cobble rectangles

Image
These convenient interlocking pavers are made with DIYers in
mind. They are easy to install and often come with fully plotted
patterns for simple design preparation and installation.

Tools & Materials

Excavation tools
Wheelbarrow
4-ft. level
Hand maul
Wood stakes
Chalk line
Mason’s string
Line level
Square-nose spade
1"-dia. metal pipes
2 × 4 lumber
Scrap plywood
Plate compactor
Masonry saw
Push broom
Concrete pavers
Compactable gravel
Coarse sand
Plastic edging and spikes
Joint sand
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Tape measure
Shovel

Cobblestones

Image
Today, the word cobblestone more often refers to cast concrete masonry
units that mimic the look of natural cobblestones. Although they are
tumbled to give them a slightly aged appearance, cast concrete cobbles
are more uniform in shape, size, and color. This is an advantage when it
comes to installation, but purists object to the appearance.
Cobblestone Paver Patio—Construction Details

Image

Cross-section of patio and base

Image
 HOW TO BUILD A COBBLESTONE PAVER
PATIO
Image
Mark the corners of the finished patio with stakes, and remove
any sod or other plantings in the area. Set up grade stakes and
mason’s strings to guide the excavation and establish a downward
slope of 1/8" per foot away from the house foundation.

Image
Variation: Use batterboards and mason’s strings to establish the
layout of the project area. See pages 42 to 47 for detailed
instructions.

Image
Excavate the site to a depth that accommodates a 4" gravel
subbase, a 1" layer of sand, and the thickness of the pavers (minus
the desired height above the ground). Extend the excavation 6"
beyond the patio footprint. Use the layout strings or grade stakes to
check the depth and slope as you work. Tamp the soil with a plate
compactor.

Image
Add compactable gravel for a 4"-thick layer after compaction.
Screed the gravel flat with a straight 2 × 4 and use a level or the
layout strings to make sure the surface is properly sloped. Compact
the gravel thoroughly with a plate compactor.

Image
Set up a new string layout to guide the edging installation using
stakes and mason’s string. The strings should represent the inside
edges of the edging material. To make sure the layout has square
corners, measure diagonally between the corners: the layout is
square when the measurements are equal.

Image
Install rigid paver edging along one side edge of the patio: snap a
chalk line directly under the layout string along the edge, and then
remove that string. Set the edging to the line and secure it with paver
edge spikes, driving in the spikes only partially (in case you have to
make adjustments later).

Image
Lay lengths of 1"-dia. metal pipe in the project area to serve as
screed guides. Fill the patio area with coarse building sand to the
tops of the pipes. Screed the sand smooth and flat using a long,
straight 2 × 4, pulling the board back and forth with a sawing motion.
Remove the pipes, fill the voids with sand, and smooth the surface
flat. Tip: Dampen the sand before screeding.

Image
Set the pavers in the chosen pattern, starting at the 90° corner
formed by the patio edging and an adjacent layout string (called the
bond line). Lay border pavers along one or both edges before setting
the field pavers. For now, simply lay the pavers in place; later, you
will bed them into the sand with the plate vibrator.

Image
Option: Use additional layout strings to help guide the paver pattern.
Set up a string that is perpendicular to the bond line, using it to align
courses every few feet. Tie equidistant strings between the corners
and the end of the perpendicular string to assure a right angle with
the bond line.

Image
Install the remaining pieces of edging as you near the opposite
side and end of the patio, leaving enough room for the final course of
field pavers (plus border units, if applicable). Cut away the edges of
the sand bed so the edging rests on the gravel base only. Tip: If you
don’t need to cut pavers along the edges, you can install the edging
after all of the pavers are laid.

Image
Cut pavers to fit as needed to complete the paving using a rented
masonry saw (also see Making Curves on page 118). It’s preferable
to cut pavers a little too small than to have very tight fits; the joint
sand will fill small gaps. With the paving complete, drive the edging
stakes into the rigid edging to lock the pavers in place.

Image
Sweep joint sand over the pavers using a push broom. Continue
adding sand and sweeping until the joints between pavers are nearly
filled to the top surface.

Image
Tamp the patio surface with the plate compactor. Move the
compactor in circular motions, working from the outside in and
overlapping rings as you go. Repeat Steps 10 and 11 until the joints
are completely filled after compaction. Note: Some paver
manufacturers recommend sweeping excess sand from the pavers
before compacting.

Making Curves
At rounded corners and curves, install border pavers (A) in a fan
pattern with even gaps between the pavers. Gentle curves may
accommodate full-sized border pavers, but for sharper turns you usually
need to cut tapers into the paver edges so you don’t end up with wide
gaps at the outside. When using border pavers in a curved layout, the
field pavers will need to be trimmed to fit the odd spaces created where
the field and borders intersect (B).

Image

Image

Choosing Pavers & Patterns

The number of purchasing options available when you shop for pavers
makes it possible to create just about any patio layout pattern you can
imagine. There is nothing stopping you from going wild and creating a
layout that’s truly one-of-a-kind. Most landscape centers will also work
with you to create a layout for your patio that employs tested design
ideas and uses pavers in a very efficient manner and with as little
cutting as possible.
Another option for DIY designers is to visit the website of the paver
manufacturer (you should be able to get the information from your
paver dealer). Many of these have applications where you can choose a
basic style you like (such as the patterns shown here) and enter the size
of your planned patio. You’ll receive a printout of what the pattern
should look like, along with a shopping list for the materials you’ll
need, all the way down to sand and spikes for your paver edging.

Image
A traditional brick running-bond pattern can be created using rectangular pavers.

Image
This basketweave pattern is made with squares and large rectangles. A border of
small rectangles completes the design.
 Image
Cobblestone paving with squares and large and small rectangles create this circular
pattern.
CIRCULAR PAVER PATIO

C oncrete pavers are available in a range of sizes and shapes,

making it easy to create distinctive patterns without a lot of
cuts. This circular patio is made with a complete set of shaped
concrete pavers. To create a perfect circle, all you have to do is set
the pavers following the manufacturer’s installation diagram, and
no cuts are needed (although some sets have center pieces that must
be cut before installation).
Circular paver sets are commonly sold in fixed starter sizes, and
you can add units as needed to enlarge the circle. You may have to
purchase additional pavers as complete sets or in full-pallet
quantities and use only what you need. Circular pavers are ideal for
building freestanding patios because their shape makes for a nice
decorative feature.

Image
A circular patio is visually dynamic and its shape makes it uniquely
suited to intimate outdoor dining and entertaining spaces. When
shopping for pavers, ask about color and texture options. Some
suppliers may allow you to mix and match finishes for a personalized
look.

Tools & Materials

Circular saw
Hammer
Drill
Excavation tools
Mason’s string
Line level
 Plate compactor
Trowel
Flathead screwdriver
Shovel
Push broom
Circular paver units
16d nails
Duct tape
Lumber (2 × 2, 2 × 4)
Marking paint
21/2" drywall screws
Compactable gravel
Landscape fabric
1 or 11/2" pipe
Straight 2 × 4
Washed concrete sand
Scrap plywood
Plastic patio edging
Paver joint sand
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Tape measure

As a design feature, a circle naturally draws the eye toward its

center. This makes a circular patio the perfect setting for a round
patio table and chairs or for highlighting a central decorative
feature, such as a fountain or statuary. A circle is also the best
configuration for creating an intimate seating area surrounding a
fire pit. In addition to patio spaces, small circles can be used as
landing areas along a curving paver walkway, while an open ring of
circular pavers can be used as a border around a planting bed.
 The patio in this project follows a standard sandset installation.
Mortaring a patio like this would be far more difficult than
sandsetting, due to the irregularity of the paver joints. For the
sandset process, it’s easiest to lay the pavers first, and then install
flexible plastic edging around the perimeter to lock the units in
place. If your patio plan calls for numerous cuts, rent a masonry
saw, or tub saw, for making the cuts. Otherwise, you can make a
few cuts with a circular saw fitted with a masonry blade. Before
you get started, it will help to review the detailed information on
laying out the project site and preparing the gravel base (see pages
42 to 47).

Circular Paver Materials

Image
*as arranged on our palllet delivered by stoneyard
Most circular paver patios are made up of a few different paver shapes. The paver
manufacturer should supply a detailed drawing showing the paver layout for each ring
of the patio. Typically, the joints between pavers are offset with those of neighboring
rings. If the pavers have mixed coloring, plan the layout carefully for the desired
decorative effect.

Image
Fan-shaped pavers offer an eye-catching twist on circular patio designs.

Image
Combine paver sets to create intersecting circular patio sections for custom shaping
and sizing. Consult the paver distributor to learn about altering standard circular
layouts.
 HOW TO INSTALL A CIRCULAR PAVER
PATIO
Image
Create a center pivot for defining the patio layout. Drive a stake at
the exact center of the desired location for the finished patio. Cut a
straight 2 × 2 about 12" longer than the radius of the patio. Drill a
large pilot hole at one end of the board, and fasten the board to the
center of the stake with a single nail. Note: For large patio areas, use
a string tied to a center nail instead of a board (inset).

Image
Mark the ground for excavation. Measuring out from the nail, mark
the board at a distance equal to the radius, plus 6". Tape a can of
marking paint to the board so the spray nozzle is centered on the
mark (inset). Spray a continuous line onto the ground while pivoting
the board to create a complete circle. Set up batterboards and
leveled layout strings in a square that’s about 1 ft. larger than the
excavated area. Remove all sod and other vegetation inside the
marked circle.

Image
Measure diagonally between opposing corners and adjust the
strings as needed until the measurements are equal (the layout is
square). Slope two of the parallel layout strings at 1/4" per foot using
the distance between the batterboards to calculate the drop distance
generally dropping away from your house.

Image
Excavate the site to the depth recommended by the paver
manufacturer. Make sure the soil is smooth, well compacted, and
properly sloped to 1/8" per foot.

Image
Prepare the subbase with a 4" layer of gravel. Thoroughly compact
the gravel with a plate compactor.

Image
Check the depth with cross strings and a story pole as you work
(shown). The completed base must be smooth and flat and follow
the slope setting.

Image
Install landscape fabric over the gravel subbase. Overlap the
edges of fabric strips by 6". Trim the fabric as needed, leaving the
ends a little long for now. Note: This helps keep the sand base in
place longer.

Image
Set two lengths of 1"-dia. pipe on top of the landscape fabric so
that one piece spans the full diameter of the gravel base and the
other spans across the base about 1/4 of the way in from the side of
the circle. Align the pipes parallel to each other. Fill half of the patio
site with sand even with the tops of the pipes.

Image
Use a straight 2 × 4 to screed the sand level with the pipes. Move
the short pipe to the opposite side of the site to complete the other
half of the sand layer. Remove the pipes and then fill all depressions
with sand. Tip: Moisten sand prior to screeding.

Image
Position the center paver, then measure out to the edge of the site
in several places to confirm that it is centered. Tip: Work on top of a
piece of plywood to avoid disturbing the sand bed.

Image
Set the first ring of pavers around the center paver. Check their
positions carefully, and make sure the spacing lugs are oriented
correctly. If the pavers don’t have lugs, gap them according to the
manufacturer’s specifications. Note: Do not hammer or tamp the
pavers into the sand bed unless the manufacturer directs otherwise.

Image
Set the remaining pavers, completing each ring according to your
layout diagram. Be sure to offset the paver joints between rows. The
pavers may be labeled, requiring them to be installed in a specific
order as you work around the circle. After a sizable area is laid, work
from your plywood platform set atop the pavers.

Image
Install rigid paver edging along the patio’s perimeter. Set the
edging on top of the gravel subbase but not the sand bed. Tip:
Dampening the sand bed along the patio edge makes it easy to cut
the sand away cleanly with a trowel before setting the edging.

Image
Inspect the paving to make sure all joints are aligned properly and
all gaps are consistent. Make minor adjustments to pavers as
needed using a flathead screwdriver as a pry bar. Be careful not to
mar the paver edges as you pry.

Image
Shovel joint sand over the entire patio surface, then use a push
broom to sweep the sand over the pavers to fill the joints. Repeat as
needed until the joints are completely filled, then sweep off excess
sand.

Image
Set the pavers into the sand bed using a plate compactor. Make a
first pass along the perimeter of the patio, then compact the interior
with parallel back-and-forth passes, overlapping the preceding pass
slightly as you go. Note: Avoid excessive tamping to prevent damage
to the paver surfaces. Add another application of sand. Tamp the
surface, but make the interior passes perpendicular to those of the
first tamping runs.

Image
Refill the joints with sand a final time and sweep the surface clean.
Spray thoroughly with water to settle the joint sand.
FLAGSTONE PATIO

F lagstones make a great, long-lasting patio surface with a

naturally rough texture and a perfectly imperfect look and
finish. Randomly shaped stones are especially suited to patios with
curved borders, but they can also be cut to form straight lines. Your
patio will appear more at home in your landscape if the flagstones
you choose are of the same stone species as other stones in the
area. For example, if your gravel paths and walls are made from a
local buff limestone, look for the same material in limestone flags.
Flagstones usually come in large slabs, sold as flagstone, or in
smaller pieces (typically 16 inches or smaller), sold as steppers.
You can make a patio out of either. Larger stones will make a solid
patio with a more even surface, but the bigger ones can require
three strong people to position, and large stones are hard to cut and
fit tightly. If your soil drains well and is stable, flagstones can be
laid on nothing more than a layer of sand. However, if you have
unstable clay soil that becomes soft when wet, start with a four-
inch-thick foundation of compactable gravel (see pages 42 to 47)
under your sand.
There are a few different options for filling the spaces between
flagstones. One popular treatment is to plant them with low-
growing perennials suited to crevice culture. For best results, use
sand-based soil between flagstones when planting. Also, stick to
very small plants that can withstand foot traffic. If you prefer not to
have a planted patio, simply fill the joints with sand or fine gravel
—just be sure to add landscape fabric under your sand base to
discourage weed growth.

Image
Sandset flagstone patios blend nicely with natural landscapes.
Although flagstone evokes a natural feel, the patio can appear rustic
or formal. This patio has clean, well-tamped joints and straight,
groomed edges along the perimeter that lends to a formal feel.
Plantings in the joints or a rough, natural perimeter would give the
same patio a more relaxed, rustic feel.

Tools & Materials

Mason’s string
Line level
Rope or hose
Excavation tools
Spud bar
Broom
Stakes
Marking paint
1" (outside diameter) pipe
Coarse sand
Straight 2 × 4
Flagstone
Spray bottle
Stone edging
Sand-based soil or joint sand
Lumber (2 × 2, 2 × 4)
Drill
Mason’s trowel
Stiff-bristle brush
Circular saw with masonry blade
Plugs or seeds for groundcover
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
3/4" plywood
31/2" deck screws
Pointing chisel
Pitching chisel
Stone chisel
Hand maul
Dust mask
Chalk or a crayon
Square-nose spade
Crushed stone
Ashlar
Mortar
Capstones

Adding a Stone Wall

Image
A dry stone wall is a simple, beautiful addition to a flagstone patio. A
wall functions as extra seating, a place to set plants, or extra countertop
or tabletop space. It also provides visual definition to your outdoor
space.
Construction Details

Image
Lay flagstones so their tops are approximately 1/2 to 1" above the surrounding
ground. Because natural stones are not uniform in thickness, you will need to adjust
sand or dirt beneath each flagstone, as needed.

Image
A typical sandset patio has a layer of coarse sand for embedding the flagstones. A
subbase of compactable gravel is an option for improved stability and drainage. The
joints between stones can be filled with sand, gravel, or soil and plants. Edging
material is optional.

Image
Irregular flagstones look natural and are easy to work with in round layouts.

Image
Flagstones that are cut into rectangular shapes can be laid in square or rectangular
patterns with uniform gaps.
 HOW TO BUILD A SANDSET FLAGSTONE
PATIO
Image
Outline the patio base using string and stakes for straight lines
and/or a rope or hose for curves. The base should extend at least 2
to 4" beyond the edges of the flagstones, except where the patio will
butt up to a wall. Transfer the outline to the ground with marking
paint. Remove any sod and vegetation within the base area.

Image
Set up layout strings to guide the excavation using stakes or
batterboards (see pages 42 to 47 for detailed steps on layout and
site preparation). Excavate the base to a depth of 2" plus the stone
thickness plus 1/2 to 1". Slope the ground away from the house
foundation at a rate of 1/4" per foot.
Lay sections of 1" pipe across the project area to serve as screed
gauges. These allow you to strike off sand at a consistent depth
when you drag a screed board over them. Note: Since large
flagstones can be held in place adequately by the surrounding soil,
edging for the patio is optional; it often looks best to allow
neighboring groundcover to grow up to the edges of the stones. If
you do plan to use edging, install it now.

Image
Fill the site with coarse sand slightly above the screed gauges.
With a helper, drag a straight 2 × 4 across the screed gauges to level
off the sand. Use a screed board that’s long enough so that you can
avoid stepping in the sand. Work the screed in a back-and-forth
sawing motion. Remove the pipes once each section is finished, fill
in the voids, and smooth the surface flat.

Arrange your flagstones into groups according to size and shape.

As a general rule, start paving with the broadest stones and fill in
around them with increasingly smaller pieces, but appearance and
sight lines are also important: if there is one nice stone with a flat
surface and good color, feature it in the center of the patio. Or, if
some of the patio will be visible from the house, choose nicer stones
for these areas.

Begin by laying large, thick stones around the perimeter of the

patio. Leave a consistent gap of about 1" between stones by
matching pieces like a puzzle and cutting and dressing stones as
needed. The outer edge of the patio should form smooth curves (or
straight lines) without jutting pieces or abrupt irregularities. Level
stones as needed by prying up with a spud bar and adding or
removing sand underneath.

Fill in around the larger stones with smaller pieces cut to fit the
spaces, as needed, working from the outside in. After setting a band
of stones a few courses wide, lay a 2 × 4 across the stones to make
sure they’re level with one another. Add or remove sand below to
adjust their height, and dampen the sand occasionally to make it
easier to work with.

Image
Fill the joints between stones with sand-based, weed-seed-free
soil. Sweep the soil across the patio surface to fill the cracks, and
then water the soil so it settles. Repeat as needed until the soil
reaches the desired level. Plant plugs or seeds for groundcover to
grow up between the stones, if desired.

Image
Variation: To finish the patio with sand instead of soil and plants,
spread sand over the patio and sweep across the stones with a push
broom to fill the joints. Pack the sand with your fingers or a piece of
wood. Spray the entire area with water to help compact the sand. Let
the patio dry. Repeat filling and spraying until the joints are full and
the stones are securely locked in place.

Choosing Soil & Plants for Your Patio

Sand-based soil (also called “patio planting” soil) is the best material to
use for planting between flagstones. This mixture of soil and sand
sweeps easily into joints, and it resists tight compaction to promote
healthy plant growth, as well as surface drainage. Regular soil can
become too compacted for effective planting and drainage and soil
from your yard will undoubtedly contain weeds. Sand-based soil is
available in bulk or by the bag and is often custom-mixed at most large
garden centers.
As for the best plants to use, listed below are a few species that tend
to do well in a patio application. Ask a local supplier what works best
for your climate.

• Alyssum
• Rock cress
• Thrift
• Miniature dianthus
• Candytuft
• Lobelia
• Forget-me-not
• Saxifrage
• Sedum
• Thymus
• Scotch moss
• Irish moss
• Woolly thyme
• Mock strawberry

Image
Patio “planting soil” (for planting between stones) is available in bulk or bags at most
garden centers. It is good for filling cracks because the sand base makes it dry and
smooth enough to sweep into cracks, yet the black compost will support plant growth.
Because it is bagged, you can be assured it doesn’t come with weeds.
CREATING A PERMEABLE SUBBASE

M ost patios made with rock or masonry units should have a

stable subbase of compacted rock or gravel, usually beneath
a layer of coarse sand into which the surfacing materials are set.
Typically, these subbase layers are 6 to 8 inches thick, depending
on your soil conditions—loose, loamy, or sandy soil needs a thicker
subbase. A standard subbase made from compactable gravel (called
Class II or Class V in most areas) hardens to form a solid mass
when it is compacted. Water runoff will not penetrate such a
subbase. But as patio builders have begun to place a higher value
on water retention and minimizing runoff, they have developed
permeable subbases that accomplish the same result by stabilizing
the patio, but allow water runoff to seep through into the subsoil
below instead of running off and into the wastewater collection
system.
They key to a permeable subbase is called open-grade drainage
rock in most areas. Where Class II and Class V are sifted with fine
pulverized material (usually limestone) that hardens, ungraded
drainage rock is just the rock. Most landscape materials stores carry
it in two sizes: 3/4-inch aggregate and 11/2-inch aggregate. The
prevailing wisdom suggests laying a layer of the larger rock first,
compacting it, and then topping it off with a compacted layer of the
smaller drainage rock before you put down your sand bed (if you
are using one). Once you’ve created a permeable subbase, it will
look very much like a traditional subbase and you build upon it
using the same techniques. However, note that a permeable subbase
is of little value if you top it with an impermeable or minimally
permeable surfacing, such as interlocking pavers. Use either
material that allows water to drain through it (such as pervious
pavers), or install impermeable materials with large enough gaps
between the individual members that the water will run off the
pavers or stones and drain down through the gaps.

Image
A permeable subbase looks a little like a typical compacted gravel
subbase, but because the open-grade drainage rock is devoid of
fines it does not form a solid layer and thus it allows water to run
through, not off.

Tools & Materials

Stakes and mason’s line
Tape measure
Maul
Shovels or other excavation tools
Wheelbarrow
Hand tamper
Landscape rake
Plate compactor
Level
Ear and eye protection
Sturdy shoes/boots
Work gloves
Large (11/2" diameter) open-grade drainage rock
Smaller (3/4" diameter) open-grade rock
Landscape fabric or geogrid textile (optional)
Edging
Coarse sand or pulverized granite (optional)

Image
The thickness of your permeable subbase depends on the soil
conditions. For stable soil with good drainage, a 4 to 6" subbase is
adequate. If you have loamy or sandy soil, go as thick as 10", with a
layer of larger-diameter drainage rock. Adding an underlayment of
geogrid textile will help stabilize the subbase in such cases. An
underlayment is not helpful in stable soil with good drainage.

Image
The components of a permeable subbase, from bottom to top,
include a 4 to 6" layer of 11/2" diameter open-grade drainage rock
(limestone is shown here); above that, a 2 to 4" layer of open-grade
rock; a top layer of coarse sand or pulverized granite for use as a
setting bed for flagstone or masonry units.
 HOW TO INSTALL A PERMEABLE SUBBASE
Image
Drive corner posts with a maul and outline the patio area. Run
mason’s lines between the corner posts. Ideally, the patio should
slope away from an adjoining house at a rate of around 1/2" for every
10 ft. Set a level line along the edges of the patio perpendicular to
the house. Adjust the line downward to create the 1/4" per 1-ft. slope.

Image
Begin excavating the site. A typical permeable subbase is 8" below
grade when you allow for the thickness of the setting layer and the
pavers or other surfacing. Use your layout strings to establish your
digging depth. Measure the distance from the mason’s line to the
ground and add the depth of your excavation—8" in the project seen
here. Make a story pole with markings that match the distance from
the planned bottom of the excavation to the mason’s line. Keep the
lines in place as you dig (this does create an obstacle but it is the
best way to assure that you don’t overdig).

Image
Excavate the patio site using the story pole as a depth guide. Be
sure to call (in the US, simply dial “811”) and have any utility lines
flagged before you begin digging. Be careful not to dig too deeply, as
the best base for your subbase is undisturbed earth. Once the
excavation is complete, remove the strings and prepare for the
installation of the subbase.

Create a Wheelbarrow Path

Create a temporary pathway from the subbase rock to the site using
wood planks, old pavers, or any other surface you can create. This will
 minimize damage to your yard and make the heavy wheelbarrows safer
to operate.

Image
A permeable base is made with open-grade rock, which is simply
landscape rock that has no fines or binders, as typical subbase
(often called Class V or Class II) does. The bottom layer should be
rock that is not smooth and has diameters of 11/2" to 2" inches.
Spread a 2- to 4"-deep layer of rock over the excavation area.
OPTION: Install a layer of landscape fabric over the site to inhibit
weeds. Landscape fabric can be installed under the subbase or on
top of the subbase, but must be under the setting base layer.
Spread the rock out into an even layer. Use a garden rake or
landscape rake to spread it. The subbase should extend past the
planned edges of the project area by at least 10" on all open sides.

Image
Tamp the rock to compact it. You can use a hand tamper, but for
best results use a rented plate compactor. This is a very important
part of creating a solid patio base, so be sure to be diligent with your
efforts. Compact the rock as you go: do not compact more than 2" of
material at one time. Wear foam ear plugs or other ear protection.

Image
Add additional layers of large rock until the base layer is at least
4" thick. Then, switch to a smaller open-grade rock for the next layer.
Here, 3/4"-dia. buff limestone is being used. Add, spread, and
compact the smaller-grade rock until the leveled surface follows the
grade of the patio and the surface of the rock layer is 2", plus the
thickness of your surfacing material, below grade at the top of the
worksite. This completes your permeable subbase. Add a sand
setting layer and pavers according to the demands of your project.
SPACED MASONRY PAVERS

A bit of space between each paver and its neighbor is all it takes
to turn a mostly impervious surface like masonry pavers into
something that replenishes groundwater and spares storm drains.
You have several options for building these earth-friendly gaps into
your project: • Spaced conventional pavers. Boost the earth
friendliness of standard concrete pavers or bricks by installing them
with several inches of a gap between them. Filling the voids with
river rock or creeping plants permits water to drain easily.

• Mounting grids. Plastic mounting not only locks in pavers a

consistent space from each other, they help keep the installation
smooth and level.

• Pavers with pre-formed spacers. Some pavers come with small

nubs that separate them just enough to allow for drainage. They
install as quickly and easily as conventional pavers.

For this project, you’ll also need to prepare a deep substrate of

coarse, angular gravel to handle the water (see Creating a
Permeable Subbase, pages 132 to 135). Your soil type will dictate
its depth. At the extreme, you may have to excavate 10 to 12 inches
to make room for 8 inches of 3/4- to 11/2-inch open-graded stone,
followed by at least 2 inches of coarse sand or screenings as a
setting bed.
The project that follows uses widely spaced 16-inch by 16-inch
pavers. One advantage of large pavers is that they look best if laid
out so only whole pieces are used. No cutting! Once the substrate
and edging is in place, use spacers and a taut line to install the
pavers.
 Image
The 16 x 16" wet-cast concrete pavers would shed rainwater and
runoff if they were butted against one another in the traditional
manner. By leaving a 3” gap filled with pulverized granite, you create
a route for water to soak into the permeable subbase and subsoil.

Tools & Materials

Safety glasses, gloves, ear protection
Tape measure
Circular saw
Hammer
Drill driver, bits
Excavation tools
Stakes
Mason’s string
Line level
Plate compactor
Rubber mallet
Rake
Trowel
Lengths of 1" metal conduit
Rigid paver edging, galvanized spikes
Scrap plywood and 2× for making spacers
3/4 to11/2" open-grade stone for base
Coarse sand or screenings for setting bed
Pea gravel, river rock, crushed granite, or sand to fill gaps
Topsoil (if adding plants)
Plants

Image
 Using Spacers
One of the least expensive ways to make an earth-friendly patio is to
install conventional pavers with extra space between them for drainage.
Any amount of spacing helps, whether a mere 1/4-inch gap filled with
coarse sand or 3 inches or more for stone or plantings. The consistent
geometry of conventional pavers makes it relatively easy to achieve
straight courses. However, once you introduce a gap you’ll need to
contrive spacers to help keep the gap consistent and the pavers neatly
lined up. Guides can range from a few strips of 1/4-inch hardboard to 2×
and plywood combinations made to suit your arrangement.

Image
Simple strips of 1/4" hardboard or plywood work fine as gap guides. Adding a scrap
of 1 × 2 makes them easier to use. Make several so they are always handy. This
relatively small gap works well with smaller cast concrete pavers similar in size to brick
pavers.

Image
For a 11/2" gap, use a 2 × 2 as a spacer. Adding a scrap of 1/2" plywood to ride on
the paver tops makes the spacer easier to handle and helps you level adjacent pavers.
This spacing is good with medium-sized pavers, such as these 8 × 16 concrete pavers.

Image
To install a grid of square pavers, make a cross spacer about 16" by 16". Two 2 × 2s
gives you a roughly 3-inch gap without having to rip a 2 × 4. Add the cross made of
1/4- to 3/4" plywood to match to the thickness of the pavers and hold the 2 × 2s
together. For ease of use, attach a 1 × 2 handle. This is the spacer used for the
featured project to follow, which uses large 16 × 16" pavers.
 HOW TO INSTALL A SPACED-PAVER PATIO
Image
Prepare a permeable subbase that extends at least 10" past the
planned borders of the patio where possible. Install rigid paver
edging around the border of the patio area to contain the coarse
sand or crushed granite setting base material.

Image
Embed 1"-dia. pieces of conduit into the sand at 4- to 6-ft.
intervals, making sure the conduit pieces are flush with one another
and follow any slope you want to build into the patio (a 1/2" in 10-ft.
slope away from the house is a good minimum). Scrape a piece of
straight 2 × 4 along strips of adjoining conduit to level the paver
setting medium. Slowly move the 2 × 4 back and forth in a sawing
motion. Avoid walking on the setting bed once it is smooth. Remove
the conduit and backfill the depressions.

Image
Lay a setting bed that is at least 2" thick on top of the subbase.
Level the setting bed. Do not use a power plate compactor on this
bed, as it will make adjusting the pavers very difficult. It is okay to
use a hand tamper to level things out and lightly compact the
material.

Image
Starting at a corner, set four tiles, using a cross spacer (see
previous page) to position the pavers. Note: When using spacers to
lay out a patio next to a house, always start at the house and work
outward. In cases (such as the example seen here) where you are
working in a closed corner, choose that corner to start. That way, if
the corner is slightly out of square, which is common, you can make
it up at the open sides of the patio where it is less noticeable.

Image
Continue to set pavers onto the setting bed, fanning outward from
the corner where you started. Rely on the spacer to position the
pavers, and go back to recheck the gaps as you work. For best
results, make many spacers and leave them in place as you work.

Image
Once you’ve set several pavers, also check to make sure you are
staying level. Lay a straight 2 × 4 across the tops and look for gaps
between the straightedge and the pavers.

Image
Add or remove bedding base from beneath the pavers as needed
to bring them to level. Use some restraint here, as it is very easy to
throw off your layout by adding too much bedding.

Image
Use a rubber mallet and a scrap of 2 × 4 to adjust out-of-kilter
pavers. Again, use restraint here and be mindful of the lines formed
by the grid pattern. Even slight deviations will show up very clearly.

Image
Place all the pavers, then add filler between the pavers. Here, the
same crushed (also called composted) granite that was used for the
setting base is used to fill in the gaps. Keep a supply of the material
around, as it is likely you’ll need to refresh it from time to time as the
level gets lower.

Image
Option: Fill the spaces between the pavers with topsoil or potting
soil so you can add attractive groundcover plants that don’t mind
being underfoot. Some may even add a pleasant fragrance as you
walk across them. For areas with full sun, consider Creeping Thyme
or Elfin Thyme. In partial sun, Goldmoss Sedum, Chamomile,
Dichondra, and Irish Moss work well. In shady areas, go with
Corsican Sandwort or Sweet Woodruff. Or, simply plant grass.

Image
CONCRETE SLAB PATIO

F ew outdoor surfaces are as heavy duty as a properly poured

concrete slab. As a patio material, poured concrete is tough to
beat. The surface is flat, smooth, easy to clean, and about as close
to maintenance-free as you can get. A concrete slab is also the best
foundation for permanent finishes like mortared brick, tile, and
stone. And if you like the simplicity and durability of a bare
concrete patio but flat gray doesn’t suit your design scheme, you
can always apply an acid stain, dry pigment colors, or concrete
paint (rated for exterior use) for custom coloring effects without
compromising the surface’s performance.
If you’ve never worked with poured concrete before, you’ll find
that most of the work lies in preparing the site and building the
forms for containing and shaping the wet concrete. Once the
concrete is mixed or delivered to your site, time is of the essence,
and the best way to ensure quality results is to be prepared with
strong forms, the right tools, and an understanding of each step of
the process. And it never hurts to have help: you’ll need at least
two hardworking assistants for the placing and finishing stages.
This patio project follows the steps for building a small (100
square feet or so) slab that can be poured and finished all at once.
The patio featured here is a circular, freestanding structure slightly
more than 10 feet in diameter. If you are building a patio of any
shape that abuts your house, always isolate it from the house with
an isolation board and slope the surface so water drains away from
the foundation. A smaller slab is much more manageable for
amateurs. Larger slabs often require that you place and tool the wet
concrete in workable sections, and these steps must continue
simultaneously until the entire slab is filled and leveled before the
concrete begins to set. Therefore, it’s a good idea to seek guidance
and/or assistance from a concrete professional if your plans call for
a large patio.
Because they are permanent structures, concrete patios are often
governed by local building codes, and you might need a permit for
your project—especially if the patio abuts a permanent structure.
Before you get started, contact your city’s building department to
learn about permit requirements and general construction
specifications in your area, including: • Zoning restrictions

• Depth of gravel subbase

• Concrete composition
• Slab thickness and slope
• Internal reinforcement (wire mesh, rebar, etc.)
• Control joints
• Moisture barrier under slab (not a common requirement)

Image
The moldable nature of poured concrete makes it ideal for
creating patios with curves and custom shapes in addition to perfect
squares and rectangles. If your patio plans call for a neighboring
concrete walkway, see pages 72 to 77.

Concrete Coverage
Volume Slab Thickness Surface Area
1 cubic yard 2" 160 square feet
1 cubic yard 3" 110 square feet
1 cubic yard 4" 80 square feet
1 cubic yard 5" 65 square feet
1 cubic yard 6" 55 square feet
 1 cubic yard 8" 40 square feet

Tools & Materials

Drill
Circular saw
Hand maul or sledgehammer
Mason’s string
Stakes
Marking paint
Line level
Excavation tools
Bow rake
Level
Plate compactor or hand tamper
Eye protection
Plumb bob
Chalk line
Hammer
Hardboard lap siding
Bolt cutters
Concrete mixing tools
Shovel or masonry hoe
Wheelbarrow
Bull float
Edger
1" groover
Magnesium trowel
Push broom
Lumber (1 × 2, 2 × 4)
Compactable gravel
Screws
6 × 6" 10/10 welded wire mesh
Tie wire
2" wire bolsters
Work gloves
Square-nose spade
Safety protection
Isolation board and construction adhesive
Concrete form release agent
4,000 psi concrete (or as required by local code)
Clear polyethylene sheeting
Lawn edger (available for rent)
 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
Image
Well-constructed forms and properly prepared foundational
elements will ensure your slab is structurally sound.

When is Concrete Ready to Finish?

Floating wet concrete causes the heavy materials in the mix to sink
below the surface, leaving a layer of water—know as bleed water—on
the surface. To achieve an attractive and durable finish, let the bleed
water disappear before proceeding with the final finishing steps
(edging, control joints, and finish troweling). How long this takes
depends on the air temperature, humidity, and sun exposure; you just
have to watch and wait.
Once the bleed water dries, test the concrete for hardness by
stepping on it: if your foot sinks in no more than 1/4", the concrete is
ready for finishing. Be extra diligent with any areas exposed to the sun
or wind, as they can dry much faster than other spots. Note: Air-
entrained concrete (commonly used for cold-weather pours) doesn’t
show bleed water, so you have to rely on the step test to know when it’s
time to start finishing.
 HOW TO BUILD A ROUND CONCRETE
PATIO
Image
Establish layout lines for the site excavation using batterboards,
mason’s string, and inverted marking paint. Set the lines so they
reach at least 12" beyond the work area on all sides. Plan for the
gravel base to extend 12" beyond the slab. Use two pairs of
perpendicular batterboards with strings to establish the centerpoint
of a round patio (where the strings intersect). To create a rough
outline for the patio excavation, drive a stake at the centerpoint and
then attach a string to the top of the stake. Tape the other end of the
string to a can of inverted marking paint so the distance from the
stake to the can equals the radius of the circle, including the gravel
base; mark the outline.
Cut the sod on the perimeter of the excavation area to define where
to dig. For better access, first remove the batterboards (or at least
the strings). A lawn edger works well for cutting the outline into the
sod (be sure to wear safety equipment).

Image
Excavate the site for a 6- to 8"-thick compactable gravel subbase
plus any sub-grade (below ground level) portion of the slab. If
building next to your house, grade the soil so it slopes away from the
house at 1/8" per foot. Measure down from the leveled cross strings
with a story pole to gauge the depth as you work. Compact the soil
after grading using a plate compactor or a hand tamper.

Fill the excavation area with a 4"-thick layer of compactable gravel.

Use an upside-down bow or garden rake to move the rock around.
Rake the rock until it is level and follows the grade of the soil base.
 Image
Use a plate compactor to tamp the first 4" of graded compactable
gravel. Add another 2 to 4" layer of gravel until the top surface will
compact to the finished level. Use cross strings and the story pole to
make sure the subbase is uniform and follows the 1/8" per ft. slope.
Tamp until the gravel is compacted and at the correct height relative
to your lines.

Patio Next to a House

If your patio will butt up to a house or another permanent structure, you
should use the house or structure as your starting point for setting slope
and establishing a patio layout. Snap a chalk line onto the house
foundation at the precise elevation of the top of the finished slab. This
should be 1 to 3" below any patio door threshold. You can use this line
for reference during the site prep, the concrete pour, and finishing.

Image

Image
Set level lines for the form height. Replace batterboards and retie
the mason’s lines so they are level. If you are making a circular
patio, as seen here, add intermediate stakes between the
batterboards and the tie lines to divide the circle into at least eight
segments. Drop a plumb bob from the point where the lines
intersect, and drive a stake at this centerpoint. Use this stake to
create a string guide and redraw the patio outline (inset).

Image
Drive stakes for anchoring the forms around the perimeter of the
patio, just outside the outline. Drive the stakes deep enough that
they will be beneath the tops of the forms. Use a hand maul or
sledgehammer to drive the stakes. To prevent them from splitting,
use a scrap 2 × 4 as a hammer block to absorb the blows. Drive a
stake at each point where a string intersects the patio outline.

Image
Install forms. Here, 7/16"-thick pieces of hardboard lap siding have
been rip-cut into 31/2" strips to make bendable forms. Cut each strip
long enough to span three stakes as it follows the patio outline.
Screw the strip to the middle stake first, making sure the top is the
correct distance down from the layout string. Bend the form to follow
the outline and attach it to the other stakes.

Image
Drive stakes behind the forms anywhere where the strips require
additional bending or anchoring to follow the round outline. Attach
the forms to the stakes. Note: If you are installing straight 2 × 4
forms, drive screws through the outsides of the stake and into the
form boards to make them easier to remove later.

Image
Lay wire mesh over the gravel base, keeping the edges 1 to 2" from
the insides of the form. Overlap the mesh strips by 6" and tie them
together with tie wire. Prop up the mesh on 2" wire bolsters placed
every few feet and tied to the mesh with wire. If required, install
isolation board along the house foundation.

Image
Place 4,000 psi concrete in the form, starting at the side farthest
from the concrete source. Before pouring, construct access ramps
so wheelbarrows can roll over the forms without damaging them, and
coat the insides of the form with a release agent or vegetable oil to
prevent the forms from sticking. Distribute the concrete with a shovel
or masonry hoe. As you fill, hammer against the outsides of the
forms to eliminate air pockets.
 Image
Screed the surface with a long, straight 2 × 4: have two people pull
the board backward in a side-to-side sawing motion, with the board
resting on top of the form. As you work, shovel in extra concrete to fill
the low spots or remove concrete from high spots, and re-screed.
The goal is to create a flat surface that’s level with the top of the
form.

Image
Float the concrete surface with a bull float: without applying
pressure, push and pull the float in straight, parallel passes,
overlapping each pass slightly with the next. Slightly tip up the
leading edge of the float to prevent gouging the surface. Stop
floating once the surface is relatively smooth and has a wet sheen.
Be careful not to over-float, indicated by water pooling on the
surface. Allow the bleed water to disappear.

Image
Use an edger to shape all edges of the slab that contact the wood
form. Carefully run the edger back and forth along the form to create
a smooth, rounded corner. Slightly lift the leading edge of the tool as
needed to prevent gouging.

Image
Cut a control joint (if required) using a 1" groover guided by a
straight 2 × 4. In most cases, you’ll need to erect a temporary bridge
to allow access for cutting in the center of the patio. Take great care
here. Be sure to cut grooves while concrete is still workable. Make
several light passes back and forth until the groove reaches full
depth, lifting the leading edge of the tool to prevent gouging.

Image
Flatten ridges and create a smooth surface with a magnesium
trowel. This will create a smooth surface that takes a finish well once
the concrete has dried. Another finishing option is simply to skip the
additional floating. Then, before the concrete dries completely, brush
lightly with a push broom to create a nonslip “broomed” surface.

Image
Cure the concrete by misting the slab with water, then covering it
with a single piece of polyethylene sheeting. Smooth out any air
pockets (which can cause discoloration), and weight the sheeting
along the edges. Mist the slab and reapply the plastic daily for 1 to 2
weeks.
MORTARED PAVER PATIO

S etting brick or concrete pavers into mortar is one of the most

beautiful—and permanent—ways to dress up an old concrete
slab patio. The paving style used most often for mortared pavers is
the standard running bond pattern, that is also the easiest pattern to
install.
Mortared pavers are appropriate for old concrete slabs that are
flat, structurally sound, and relatively free of cracks. Minor surface
flaws are generally acceptable, however existing slabs with
significant cracks or any evidence of shifting or other structural
problems will most likely pass on those same flaws to the paver
finish. When in doubt, have your slab assessed by a qualified
mason or concrete contractor to learn about your options.
Pavers for mortaring include natural clay brick units in both
standard thickness (23/8 inch) and thinner versions (11/2 inch) and
concrete pavers in various shapes and sizes. Any type you choose
should be square-edged, to simplify the application and finishing of
the mortar joints. When shopping for pavers, discuss your project
with an expert masonry supplier. Areas that experience harsh
winters call for the hardiest pavers available, graded SW or SX for
severe weather. Also make sure the mortar you use is compatible
with the pavers to minimize the risk of cracking and other
problems.

Image
Nothing dresses up an old concrete patio like mortared pavers.
The mortaring process takes more time and effort than many
finishing techniques, but the look is timeless; and the surface is
extremely durable.
 Tools & Materials
Stiff brush or broom
Rented masonry saw
Mason’s trowel
Mortar mixing tools
4-ft. level
Rubber mallet
Mortar bag
Jointing tool
Pointing trowel
Concrete cleaner or pressure washer
Brick or concrete pavers
3/8 or 1/2" plywood
Spray bottle
Isolation board
Mortar
Burlap
Plastic sheeting
Notched board
Mason’s string
Straight 2 × 4
Eye and ear protection
Push broom
Work gloves
 HOW TO INSTALL A MORTARED PAVER
PATIO
Image
Prepare the patio surface for mortar by thoroughly cleaning the
concrete with a commercial concrete cleaner and/or a pressure
washer. Make sure the surface is completely free of dirt, grease, oil,
and waxy residue.

Image
Mist the concrete with water to prevent premature drying of the
mortar bed, and then mix a batch of mortar as directed by the
manufacturer. Tip: Install isolation board along the foundation wall if
the paving abuts the house; this prevents the mortar from bonding
with the foundation.

Image
Dry-lay the border pavers along the edge of the patio slab. Gap the
pavers to simulate the mortar joints using spacers cut from plywood
equal to the joint thickness (3/8 or 1/2" is typical). Adjust the pavers as
needed to create a pleasing layout with the fewest cuts possible.
Mark the paver locations on the slab and then set pavers aside.

Image
Begin laying the border pavers by spreading a 1/2"-thick layer of
mortar for three or four pavers along one edge of the patio using a
mason’s trowel. Lay the first few pavers, buttering the leading edge
of each with enough mortar to create the desired joint thickness.
Press or tap each paver in place to slightly compress the mortar bed.
If necessary, cut bricks with a rented masonry saw.
 Image
Remove excess mortar from the tops and sides of the pavers. Use
a level to make sure the pavers are even across the tops, and check
the mortar joints for uniform thickness. Tool the joints with a jointer
as you go. Repeat the process to lay the remaining border pavers.
Allow mortar to dry.

Image
Option: To conceal the edges of a raised slab, build wood forms
similar to concrete forms. Set a gap between the forms and slab
equal to the paver thickness plus 1/2".
Dry lay the field pavers without buttering them. Use the plywood
spacers to set the gaps for mortar joints. Cut end pavers as needed
with a rented masonry saw. Tip: Keep the courses straight by setting
the pavers along a string line referenced from the border pavers.
Remove dry-laid pavers.

Image
Spread and then screed mortar for the field pavers. Trowel on a
1/2"-thick layer of mortar inside the border, covering only about 3 or 4
sq. ft. to allow for working time before the mortar sets. Screed the
mortar to a uniform 1/2" thickness using a notched board set atop the
border pavers (set the interior end on a lumber spacer, as needed).

Image
As you work, check the heights of the pavers with a level or a
straight 2 × 4 to make sure all units are level with one another. If a
paver is too high, press it down or tap it with a rubber mallet; if too
low, lift it out and butter its back face with mortar and reset it. Repeat
steps 6 through 8 to complete the paver installation, and then let the
mortar bed dry.

Image
Fill the paver joints with fresh mortar using a mortar bag to keep
the paver faces clean. Within each working section, fill the long joints
between courses first, and then do the short joints between the
paver ends. Overfill the joints slightly.

Image
Tool the joints with a jointing tool—again, complete the long joints
first and then fill the next section. As the mortar begins to set (turns
from glossy wet to flat gray) in each tooled section, scrape off excess
mortar with a pointing trowel, being careful not to smear mortar onto
the pavers.

Image
Let the mortar joints dry for a few hours, and then scrub the pavers
with a wet burlap rag to remove excess mortar and any other
residue. Cover the surface with plastic for 48 hours. Remove the
plastic, and let the surface cure undisturbed for one week before
using the patio.
DECKS

A deck is the perfect way to

create a comfortable and
practical outdoor living space,
whether for cookouts with
family and friends or time alone
with a cup of coffee and the
Sunday paper.
A great deck design makes
the best possible use of
available outdoor space while
meshing gracefully with the beauty and functionality of your home.
Decks provide options for almost every space configuration—from
wraparound decks that take advantage of small yards by using the
space surrounding the house, to detached decks located anywhere
in the yard.
This section begins with important information on working with
your local building officials and codes to prepare you for obtaining
a building permit before you begin construction.
Next, you will find basic deck building techniques showing you
how to lay out and install the deck you have designed on paper.
Step-by-step instructions explain how to build each component of a
basic deck: ledgers, footings, posts, beams, joists, decking, stairs,
and railings. The specific tools and materials required for each of
these techniques are listed. Also, information regarding the recent
trends in alternative decking materials, such as plastic/wood
composites and PVC vinyl, are discussed, complete with full how-
to steps.
 Everything is here to help you design, plan, and build a cost-
effective deck that will provide years of enjoyment. All you have
left to do now is choose from one of the seven popular designs
included here and begin planning your new deck.

IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Deck Building Codes
• Building a Deck: A Step-by-Step Overview
• Installing a Ledger
• Locating Post Footings
• Digging & Pouring Footings
• Installing Posts
• Installing Beams
• Hanging Joists
• Laying Decking
• Building Stairs
• Deck Railing Basics
• Floating Octagon Island Deck
• Deck Benches
• Deck Skirting
DECK BUILDING CODES

E ven modest decks are required to meet building codes, and

for good reason. An improperly constructed deck can be a
safety hazard, eyesore, and can even devalue your home. That’s
why any deck project should begin with some research into local
codes.
Although codes will vary from place to place, most are based on
the International Residential Code, which was last updated in 2015.
Talk to your local building department; most will supply a list of
relevant deck-building codes for your area and will answer
questions you might have about compliance on your particular
project. If you’re using a contractor to build your deck, make sure
he is up to date on the latest codes. For more information on deck
codes and good building practices, go online and download a free
PDF copy of “Prescriptive Residential Deck Construction Guide”
published by the American Wood Council (see Resources, page
553).
The following pages show examples of code-compliant building
details. This is by no means comprehensive. Use this section as a
way to familiarize yourself with the most important code
requirements you should know when designing and building your
deck.
Post-footing diameter and depth are essential for proper deck
support. The requirements differ from locality to locality based on
frost level (the footing should be poured below frost level). Be aware
that requirements for minimum footing diameter have become more
stringent in recent years; footings that support important structural
members, such as beams, often need to be 12 in. or 16 in. or even
wider in diameter. The 8-in.dia. concrete tube forms you see at the
building center are best reserved for fence posts.
Ledger flashing (usually metal or reinforced plastic) must be
positioned according to code—wrapping over the top of the ledger
and under the building paper and siding—to prevent water from
infiltrating between the ledger and the wall.
Beam overhangs or “cantilever” are strictly regulated by code and
vary depending on the type of wood and thickness of the beam.
Generally, the cantilever should not exceed 1" in length for every 4"
of joist span. If you want to design a cantilever in your deck greater
than one-quarter of the span of the beam, you will probably need to
use steel beams.
Engineered beams, such as a laminated wood product or steel
girder, should be used on decks with very long joist spans, where
standard dimension lumber is not adequate for the load. Engineered
beams for decks must be rated for exterior use.
Railings are required by local codes for decks more than 30"
above the ground and must usually be at least 36" in height. Bottom
rails must be positioned with no more than 4" of open space below
them. Balusters, whether vertical or horizontal, can be spaced no
more than 4" apart.
Stairs must be at least 36" wide, although 48" is preferable.
Vertical step risers should be a maximum of 7 3/4" high—if left open,
the opening must not be greater than 4". Treads should be a
minimum of 10" deep. Variation among risers, or among treads,
should not exceed 3/8". Railing tops should be 34" to 38" above tread
nosings, and a grippable handrail is required for stairs of more than
four treads. You should also install a landing pad at the base of the
stairs of at least 3 ft. × 3 ft.
Beams or joists must either sit on top of posts in an approved
saddle, or be notched into a post that is at least 6 × 6". Either 4 × 4"
or 4 × 6" lumber can be used for posts 8 ft. high or less (measured to
the underside of the beam). Longer posts must be 6 × 6". Joists
cannot be attached to posts with through-bolts, even when mortises
have been cut into the posts.
Beam assemblies. Laminated deck beams (two or more pieces of
dimensional lumber are attached face-to-face) must be fastened
together with staggered rows of 10d galvanized nails or 3" deck
screws, spaced 16" on center. Beams of three members must be
secured from both sides. Exterior construction adhesive is also
recommended for the lamination.
Deck footing sizes vary and are calculated based on both the load
of the deck and the makeup of the soil. Local codes usually specify a
formula for calculating post-footing sizes, but bigger is better. Posts
can be connected to footings with a post base hardware or sunk into
the cement of the footings (generally, a post base is preferred
because it eliminates ground contact that can cause the post to rot).
Ledger and rim joists. The house siding must be removed prior to
fastening a ledger to a rim joist. Use either 3/8" or 1/2" diameter by 4"
long galvanized lag screws (check with your local building
department) or through-bolts with washers and nuts. The fasteners
must be staggered in two rows, spaced appropriately: 2" from ends
and top, 5 1/2" between fasteners on 2 × 8 ledger; 6 1/2" on 2 × 10;
and 7 1/2" on 2 × 12.
Ledgers and concrete walls. Ledgers fastened to solid concrete
must be attached with bolts and washers driven into approved
expansion, epoxy, or adhesive anchors.
Ledgers and block walls. When fastening ledgers to hollow
concrete block walls, secure the attachment bolts to the wall with
approved epoxy anchors (also called acrylic anchors).
Railing posts. Code no longer allows for railing posts to be notched
where they attach to the deck rim. Posts should be fastened to deck
rim joists with pairs of through-bolts and washers and nuts, or
attached to the decking with appropriate post base hardware.
Stair lighting. Deck stairs must be illuminated at night from a light
located at the top of the landing. The light can be switch-controlled
from inside the house, motion-controlled, or used in conjunction with
a timer switch.
Chimney chases and bays. When framing a deck around a
chimney or bay window, a suitable double header must be added
where the ledger is spliced to accommodate the obstruction. The
type of header shown here can span a maximum of 6 ft.
Rim joist connections. Attach rim joists to the end of each joist with
a minimum of three #10 × 3" exterior wood screws. Secure the
decking to both the rim joist and the perpendicular joist using the
same deck screws.
You may toenail joists to a beam only if the deck is attached to the
house. Best practice is to secure joists to the beam using a hurricane
clip.
Install staggered fasteners on the ledger board using spacing
specified in the table below.

Location of Lag Screws and Bolts in Band Joists and

Deck Ledger Boards
LEDGER

TOP EDGE ≥ 2"

BOTTOM EDGE ≥ 3/4"
ENDS ≥ 2" & ≤ 5"
ROW SPACING ≥ 1 5/8" & ≤ 5"

DIMENSION LUMBER BAND JOIST

TOP EDGE ≥ 3/4"

BOTTOM EDGE ≥ 2"
ENDS ≥ 2" & ≤ 5"
ROW SPACING ≥ 1 5/8" & ≤ 5"

Deck Ledger Attachment Using Screws or Bolts

CONNECTOR SPACING O.C.

JOIST SPAN 1/2" lag screw with ≤ 1/2" sheathing

≤ 6 FT. 30"
> 6 FT. & ≤ 8 FT. 23"
> 8 FT. & ≤ 10 FT. 18"
> 10 FT. & ≤ 12 FT. 15"
> 12 FT. & ≤ 14 FT. 13"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 16 FT. 11"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 18 FT. 10"

CONNECTOR SPACING O.C.

JOIST SPAN 1/2" lag bolt with ≤ 1/2" sheathing

≤ 6 FT. 36"
> 6 FT. & ≤ 8 FT. 36"
> 8 FT. & ≤ 10 FT. 34"
> 10 FT. & ≤ 12 FT. 29"
> 12 FT. & ≤ 14 FT. 24"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 16 FT. 21"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 18 FT. 19"

CONNECTOR SPACING O.C.

JOIST SPAN 1/2" lag bolt with ≤ 1" sheathing or ≤ 1/2" sheathing and ≤
1/2" stacked washers

≤ 6 FT. 36"
> 6 FT. & ≤ 8 FT. 36"
> 8 FT. & ≤ 10 FT. 29"
> 10 FT. & ≤ 12 FT. 24"
> 12 FT. & ≤ 14 FT. 21"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 16 FT. 18"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 18 FT. 16"
Ledger boards should be pressure-treated lumber that’s at least
2 × 8 in size. The ledger board should be the same width as the
joists that will be supported by it.
Use the correct size galvanized steel or stainless steel joist
hanger. Attach the joist hanger using the fastener specified by the
hanger manufacturer. Install a fastener in every round and oblong
hole.
One way to attach a beam to a 6 × 6 post is to notch the post and
secure the beam using 1/2" diameter galvanized steel machine bolts
and washers. Or, you can mount beams on top of posts with
galvanized post cap hardware.
Joists may not be attached to posts with through bolts, even
when mortises are cut into the posts to house the joists.
BUILDING A DECK: A STEP-BY-STEP
OVERVIEW
BUILDING DECKS: A STEP-
BY-STEP OVERVIEW
Deck-building is a project you’ll
tackle in stages, no matter what
deck design you choose. The
photos on these next four pages
provide an overview of the
primary stages involved in a
typical deck project. The
chapters that follow will explore
each of these stages in depth.
In this overview, an old, worn deck is replaced with a slightly
larger new deck with approximately 180 square foot of outdoor
living space (not including the steps). As decks go, it’s average in
size and the structural techniques are standard. The deck is
supported by a ledger board attached to the rim joist of the home,
and three main posts set atop large concrete footings. A second set
of smaller posts supports the stairs. The 2 × 2 railing balusters are
custom-cut on site and topped with a 2 × 6 cap. The structural
elements are all made with pressure-treated pine; the decking and
the more visible lumber is also pressure-treated pine, but it is pre-
colored to a cedar tone so it does not require a finish coating.
An average size deck built with standard construction practices
is still a major undertaking. Be sure to plan well and arrange for
plenty of help at key points, such as when digging and pouring the
footings and installing the central beam. In most areas any deck
attached to the home requires a building permit issued by your
municipality, and there likely will be several on-site inspections
required. For this deck, inspection of the footing holes was needed
to confirm that they are sufficiently wide and that they extended
past the frostline (here, a minimum of 42 inches deep). An
additional inspection was done once the undercarriage was
completed (before the decking was installed), and a final inspection
also was required.

Install a ledger to anchor the deck to the house and to serve as

reference for laying out footings (pages 166 to 171). Use
batterboards and mason’s strings to pinpoint the right locations for
the footings, and check to make sure the layout is square by
measuring the diagonals: if diagonal measurements are the same,
the layout is square.
Pour concrete post footings (pages 172 to 183), and install metal
post anchors (pages 183 to 188). Set and brace the posts, attach
them to the post anchors, and mark the posts for cutting at the point
where the beam will be attached (page 189).
Fasten the beam to the main posts with post caps (pages 190 to
195). Install the outside joists and the header joist, using galvanized
nails. Measure between the outer rim joists and then cut and install a
front rim joist parallel to the ledger.
Install the internal joists using metal joist hangers at the ledger
(pages 196 to 201). Attach the other ends using hangers or nails
according to your approved plan.
Lay decking boards, and trim them to length after installation
(pages 202 to 204). If desired for appearance, clad the structural
members with fascia boards (page 204).
Build the deck stairs (pages 206 to 209). If three or more stairs are
built a grippable handrail is required.
Install a railing around the deck and stairway (pages 210 to 219).
A railing adds a decorative touch and is required on any deck that is
more than 30" above the ground.
INSTALLING A LEDGER

T he first step in building an attached deck is to fasten the ledger

to the house. The ledger anchors the deck and establishes a
reference point for building the deck square and level. The ledger
also supports one end of all the deck joists, so it must be attached
securely to the framing members of the house.
If your deck’s ledger is made from pressure-treated lumber,
make sure to use hot-dipped, galvanized lag screws and washers to
attach it to the house. Ordinary zinc-coated hardware will corrode
and eventually fail if placed in contact with ACQ pressure-treating
chemicals. For additional strength on large decks—and where the
framing structure will permit it—use through-bolts instead of lag
screws, tightening down with a washer and nut on the opposite
side. Install the ledger so that the surface of the decking boards will
be 1 inch below the indoor floor level. This height difference
prevents rainwater or melted snow from seeping into the house.
Deck fasteners and flashing must be installed precisely according
to code. Make sure you know what local codes require and follow
them to the letter when installing the ledger.
A deck ledger (shown in cross section) is usually made of pressure-
treated lumber. Lap siding is cut away to expose sheathing and to
provide a flat surface for attaching the ledger. Galvanized flashing
tucked under siding prevents moisture damage to wood.
Countersunk 1/2 × 4" lag screws hold ledger to header joist inside
house. If there is access to the space behind the header joist, such
as in an unfinished basement, attach the ledger with carriage bolts,
washers, and nuts.
 Tools & Materials
For all surfaces:
Pressure-treated lumber
2 × 4s for braces
Drill and bits
Galvanized (triple zinc plated) lag screws and 1 3/8" washers
Silicone caulk
Pencil
Pry bar
Z-flashing (galvanized steel or plastic)
Level
Circular saw
Caulk gun
8d galvanized common nails
Hammer
Ratchet wrench or impact driver
Building paper or moisture barrier
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
Optional:
Wood chisel
Metal snips
Awl
Rubber mallet
Masonry anchors for 1/2" lag screws (for masonry walls)
 HOW TO CUT OUT SIDING FOR A LEDGER
BOARD

Draw an outline showing where the deck will fit against the house,
using a level as a guide. Include the thickness of the outside joists
and any decorative facing boards that will be installed.
Cut out the siding along the outline, using a circular saw. Set the
blade depth to the same thickness as the siding, so that the blade
does not cut into the sheathing.
Use a chisel to cut the siding at the ends of the cutout or anywhere
the circular saw cannot reach. Hold the chisel with the bevel side
facing into the cutout area. Use a claw hammer to pry off the siding
and a pry bar as necessary to pop stubborn nails holding siding over
the cutout area.
Measure and cut the ledger from pressure-treated lumber.
Remember that the ledger will be shorter than the overall length of
the cutout.

Sizing Your Ledger Opening

A wood ledger board should be made from 2× stock that is pressure
treated or naturally rot resistant. Pressure-treated pine is by far the most
common material. The ledger should be at least a 2" × 8" width, but it
cannot be narrower than the joists that hang from it. Best practice is to
use lumber of the same dimension as the joists. When sizing the ledger
length, be sure to allow for the metal joist hanger flanges at the end-
add at least an inch or two per end for nailing the hangers.
 To Counterbore or Not to Counterbore?
Should the lag screws used to attach your ledger board be
counterbored? More often than not, deck builders will drill guide holes
and counterbore them so the head of each lag screw and its washer is
recessed below the exposed surface of the board. Many building
inspectors will point out, however, that in most cases a counterbore is
unnecessary and its function is purely cosmetic. In fact, by reducing the
thickness of the board at the point of attachment you are actually
weakening the holding power. A 2 × 8 with a 1/2 inch deep counterbore
will have only 1 inch of wood at the point of attachment. Other than
appearance, the only real advantage to counterboring the lag screws is
that it allows you to mount joist hangers with the flanges over the screw
heads if that is where they fall in your layout.
These days, many professional deck builders skirt the issue entirely
by using self-tapping ledger screws, which are now allowed by most
codes. Typically smaller in diameter and featuring star-drive screw
heads, these fasteners can be driven directly into the ledger and rim
joist with no pilot holes. They are also made from reinforced metal that
has much greater shear strength than the steel used in inexpensive
forged lag screws. The low-profile screw heads do not interfere
significantly with hanger installation. If you wish to use these screws,
check with your building inspector first to make sure they are allowed
by your codes and to confirm which size screw they recommend.
Self-tapping ledger screws do not require pilot holes or washers and have low-profile
heads so they do not interfere with joist hanger installation.
 HOW TO ATTACH A LEDGER TO A RIM
JOIST

Remove the old ledger board if you are replacing a deck. Also
inspect and remove any deteriorated wood in and around the ledge
installation area. If you are installing a deck where none was
previously, create a cutout in the siding (see previous page).
Install a backing of building paper or self-adhesive moisture
barrier in the ledger opening, making sure the material is securely
tucked behind the siding and it extends past the gap where the rim
joist meets the foundation wall. Tuck Z-flashing (galvanized steel or
plastic) behind the siding to create coverage for the top of the ledger.
Overlap vertical joints in the flashing by at least 4". Friction fit the
flashing only—do not penetrate it with fasteners.
Position the ledger board in the opening, propping it from below
with 2 × 4 braces to hold it in place. Tack the ledger in place with 8d
galvanized nails.
Attach the ledger board with lag screws. Many codes allow 3/8"
dia. lags, but many also require 1/2" dia. fasteners—check with your
local building inspector. The lags should be installed in pairs with the
fasteners offset by at least 1" so they are not aligned. Spacing
should be no closer than 16" apart. If you are counterboring for the
lags (See Sidebar, previous page) drill the counterbore first (top
photo) and then the guide hole (bottom).
Attach the ledger to the wall with 3/8 or 1/2 × 4" lag screws and
washers, using a ratchet wrench and socket or an impact driver.
Seal around the lag screw heads with silicone caulk. Also seal the
crack between the wall and the sides and bottom of the ledger. Apply
a full bead of the silicone caulk between the top of the Z-flashing and
the top of the cutout in the siding.
 HOW TO ATTACH A LEDGER TO A
MASONRY FOUNDATION WALL

Measure and cut the ledger. The ledger should be slightly shorter
than the overall length of the outline. Mark and drill 1/2"-deep
counterbores (1 3/8" dia.) for the lag screws you’ll use to attach the
ledger, according to your plan. Drill the counterbore first and then
drill the smaller guide holes for the lag screw shanks.
Draw an outline of the deck on the wall, using a level as a guide.
Center the ledger in the outline, and brace in position. Mark the pilot-
hole locations on the wall, using an awl or nail. Remove the ledger.
Drill anchor holes 3" deep into the wall, using a masonry bit large
enough for the anchors.
Drive lead masonry anchors for 1/2" lag screws into the holes,
using a rubber mallet.
Attach the ledger to the wall with 1/2 × 4" lag screws and washers,
using a ratchet wrench or impact driver. Tighten screws firmly, but do
not overtighten.
Seal the cracks between the wall and ledger with silicone caulk.
Also seal the lag screw heads.
 HOW TO ATTACH A LEDGER TO STUCCO

Draw the outline of the deck ledger on the wall, using a level as a
guide. The ledger should be located so you’ll be attaching it securely
to the rim joist of your house. Measure and cut the ledger, and drill
pilot holes at lag screw locations. Brace the ledger against the wall,
and transfer the hole locations onto the stucco, using a nail or awl.

Remove the ledger. Drill guide holes through the stucco layer of the
wall, using a 1/2" masonry bit.
Extend each pilot hole through the sheathing and into the rim joist,
using a 3/8" bit. Reposition the ledger and brace it in place.
Attach the ledger to the wall with lag screws and washers, using a
ratchet wrench and socket or an impact driver. Seal the lag screw
heads and the cracks between the wall and ledger with silicone
caulk.
LOCATING POST FOOTINGS

E stablish the exact locations of all concrete footings by

stretching mason’s strings across the site. Use the ledger
board as a starting point. These perpendicular layout strings will be
used to locate holes for concrete footings and to position metal post
anchors on the finished footings. Anchor the layout strings with
temporary 2 × 4 supports, called “batterboards”. You may want to
leave the batterboards in place until after the footings are dug. That
way, you can use the strings to accurately locate the J-bolts in the
concrete.
Mason’s strings stretched between the ledger and the
batterboards are used to position footings for deck posts. Use a
plumb bob and wire flags or stakes to mark the ground at the exact
centerpoints of footings. Always double check your measurements at
this point because any variations can have critical consequences for
the rest of the construction.”

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Felt-tipped pen
Circular saw
Drill
Screwgun
Framing square
Masonry hammer
Claw hammer
Batterboards
Line level
Plumb bob
2 × 4s
10d nails
2 1/2" drywall screws
Mason’s strings
Masking tape
Wire flags or stakes
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO LOCATE POST FOOTINGS

Use your design plan to find distance (A). Measure from the side
of the deck to the center of each outside post. Use your elevation
drawings to find the height of each deck post.
Cut 2 × 4 stakes for batterboards, each about 8" to 12" longer than
post height. Trim one end of each stake to a point, using a circular
saw. Cut 2 × 4 crosspieces, each about 2 ft. long.
Assemble the batterboards by attaching crosspieces to the stakes
with 2 1/2" wallboard screws. Crosspieces should be about 2" below
the tops of the stakes.
Transfer measurement A (step 1) to the ledger, and mark
reference points at each end of the ledger. String lines will be
stretched from these points on the ledger. When measuring,
remember to allow for outside joists and facing that will be butted to
the ends of the ledger.
Drive a batterboard 6" into the ground, about 2 ft. past the post
location. The crosspiece of the batterboard should be parallel to the
ledger.
Drive a 10d nail into the bottom of the ledger at the reference point
(step 4). Tie a mason’s string to the nail.
Extend the mason’s string so that it is taut and perpendicular to the
ledger. Use a framing square as a guide. Secure the string
temporarily by wrapping it several times around the batterboard.
Check the mason’s string for square using the “3-4-5 method.”
First, measure along the ledger 3 ft. from the mason’s string and
mark a point, using a felt-tipped pen.
Measure the mason’s string 4 ft. from the edge of the ledger, and
mark with masking tape.
Measure the distance between the marks. If the string is
perpendicular to the ledger, the distance will be exactly 5 ft. If
necessary, move the string left or right on the batterboard until the
distance between the marks is 5 ft.
Drive a 10d nail into the top of the batterboard at the string location.
Leave about 2" of nail exposed. Tie the string to the nail.
Hang a line level on the mason’s string. Raise or lower the string
until it is level. Locate the other outside post footing, repeating steps
5 to 12.
Measure along the mason’s strings from the ledger to find the
centerpoint of the posts. Mark the centerpoints on the strings, using
masking tape.
Drive additional batterboards into the ground, about 2 ft. outside
of the mason’s strings and lined up with the post centerpoint marks
(step 13).
Align a third cross string with the centerpoint marks on the first
strings. Drive 10d nails in the new batterboards, and tie off the cross
strings on the nails. The cross string should be close to, but not
touching, the first strings.
Check the strings for square by measuring distances A-B and C-D.
Measure the diagonals A-D and B-C from the edge of the ledger to
the opposite corners. If the strings are square, measurement A-B will
be the same as C-D, and diagonal A-D will be the same as B-C. If
necessary, adjust the strings on the batterboards until they are
square.
Measure along the cross string and mark the centerpoints of any
posts that will be installed between the outside posts.
Use a plumb bob to mark the post centerpoints on the ground,
directly under the marks on the mason’s strings. Drive a stake into
the ground at each point. Remove the mason’s strings before
digging the footings.
DIGGING & POURING FOOTINGS

C oncrete footings provide solid support for deck posts. Check

your local codes to determine the size and depth of footings
required for your area. For all but the smallest decks and some
stairways, today’s codes usually specify that post footings be at
least 12 inches in diameter, and often as big as 16 inches. In cold
climates, footings must be deeper than the soil frost line, which can
be as deep as 48 inches in the continental US. To help protect posts
from water damage, footings are generally poured so that they are
at least 2 inches above ground level. You can create footings by
pouring concrete directly into a hole with a form on top to create
the aboveground portion, or turn to the more common solution of a
tube-shaped form that allows you to pour the post you need quickly
and easily.
Before digging, consult local utilities for the locations of any
underground electrical, telephone, or water lines that might
interfere with footings. Many municipalities require that post
footing holes.
Post-hole diggers are relatively inexpensive and extremely useful.
Digging a large deck footing hole will take a long time, but you can
work at your own pace. You can also make the hole any size you
wish (power augers are limited to three or four standard bit sizes).

Tools & Materials

Power auger and/or posthole digger
Tape measure
Shovel
Reciprocating saw or handsaw
Torpedo level
Masonry hoe
Trowel
Long rod (for tamping)
Plumb bob
Utility knife
Concrete tube forms
Concrete (dry bagged mix or readymix)
J-bolts
Wheelbarrow
Concrete mixer (optional)
Scrap 2 × 4s
Gloves
Dust mask
Eye and ear protection

Power Augers
A power auger can be a terrific timesaver, but using one is still a very
labor-intensive job—especially if the soil in your project site is full of
rocks or roots. With the exception of very loose soil, using a two-person
auger generally requires that you raise the tool up and down in the hole
as you dig, which takes a good deal or teamwork and some brute
strength. Even lifting the auger out of a 4'-deep hole is strenuous
enough that good back support is highly recommended, as is hearing
protection. One-person power augers are available for rent, but if your
hole is 12 inches or wider in diameter, you’ll need a two-person tool
because you generally can’t get bits bigger than 8 inches for one-person
augers.
Estimating Concrete for Tube Forms
FOOTING NUMBER OF 60-LB. BAGS FOR EACH SIZE (DIAMETER OF
DEPTH TUBE)
6" 8" 10" 12"

1 ft. 1 1 2 2
2 ft. 1 2 3 4
3 ft. 2 3 4 6
4 ft. 2 4 5 7
FOOTING NUMBER OF 80-LB. BAGS FOR EACH SIZE (DIAMETER OF
DEPTH TUBE)
6" 8" 10" 12"

1 ft. 1 1 1 2
2 ft. 1 2 2 3
3 ft. 2 3 3 4
4 ft. 2 3 4 6
 HOW TO DIG & PREPARE HOLES FOR
FOOTINGS

Dig holes for post footings with a clamshell digger or power auger,
centering the holes on the layout stakes. For holes deeper than 35",
use a power auger.
Measure hole depth. Local building codes specify depth of footings.
Cut away tree roots, if necessary, using a pruning saw.
Pour 2" to 3" of loose gravel in the bottom of each footing hole.
Gravel will provide drainage under concrete footings.
Add 2" to hole depth so that footings will be above ground level.
Cut concrete tube forms to length, using a reciprocating saw or
handsaw. Make sure the cuts are straight.
Insert the tubes into footing holes, leaving 2" of the tube above
ground level. Check the tops of the tubes for level and adjust as
necessary. Pack soil around the tubes to hold them in place.
 HOW TO MIX CONCRETE BY HAND

Empty one or two bags of dry concrete mix into a wheelbarrow or a

mortar box. Note: concrete is sold in both 60- and 80-pound bags so
be sure to use the correct bag size when calculating how much you’ll
need. Blend the dry mix with a masonry hoe to break up any hard
clumps.
Form a hollow in the center of the dry mix, and slowly pour a small
amount of water into the hollow. Blend it in using the masonry hoe.
Be sure to wear protective gloves and a dust mask.
Add more water gradually, mixing thoroughly until the concrete is
firm enough to hold its shape when sliced with a trowel.
 HOW TO MIX CONCRETE WITH A
CONCRETE MIXER

Empty premixed concrete bags into a mortar box or wheelbarrow.

Form a hollow in the mound of dry mix, and then pour water into the
hollow. Start with 3/4 of the estimated water amount per 80-lb. bag.
Work the material with a hoe, continuing to add water until a
pancake batter consistency is achieved. Clear out any dry pockets
from the corners. Do not overwork the mix. Also, keep track of how
much water you use in the first batch so you will have a reliable
guideline for subsequent batches.
 HOW TO POUR CONCRETE FOOTINGS IN A
TUBE FORM

Dig postholes and insert a concrete tube form of the correct size
(page 179). The tube form should be stabilized and level, with the
top at least 2" above grade. An easy way to stabilize it is simply to
drive a single drywall screw through the inside surface of the form
and into scrap 2 × 4 braces. You can also backfill around the form
with dirt, but it’s better to do this after the concrete footing is dry so
you can properly tamp the backfill dirt without worrying about
damaging the tube form or knocking it out of level. Pour concrete
slowly into the tube form, guiding concrete from the wheelbarrow
with a shovel. Fill about half of the form, using a long rod to tamp the
concrete, filling any air gaps in the footing. Then fill the form to the
top, crowning it slightly.
Use a 2 × 4 scrap as a screed to strike off excess concrete and
create a relatively smooth surface. The concrete still should crown
slightly in the form—this allows it to shed water once it is cured.
Insert a J-bolt at an angle into the wet concrete at the center of the
footing. Note: If you are pouring multiple footings (normally the case)
double-check the location and alignment of the J-bolts compared to
your layout lines. Adjust the J-bolts if necessary by re-setting them.
Lower the J-bolt slowly into the concrete, wiggling it slightly to
eliminate any air gaps and let the concrete fill back in around the bolt
shank. Tip: Wrap a little duct tape around the threaded end of the
bolt to protect the part that will be exposed from the wet concrete.
Set the J-bolt so 3/4" to 1" is exposed above the concrete.
Suspend a plumb bob from your layout lines (re-tie them if you
had to remove them to excavate the holes) and confirm that the J-
bolts are still in proper location and alignment.
Use a torpedo level to make sure the J-bolt is plumb. If necessary,
adjust the bolt and repack the concrete. Let the concrete cure, then
cut away the exposed portion of tube with a utility knife if its
appearance bothers you. Backfill around the footing with dirt,
tamping it into the hole with the end of a 2 × 4 as you fill.
INSTALLING POSTS

P osts support the deck beams and

transfer the weight of the deck,
as well as everything on it, to the
concrete footings. They create the
above-ground foundation of your deck.
Your building inspector will verify that
the posts you plan to use are sized
correctly to suit your deck design.
Choose post lumber carefully so the
posts will be able to carry these
substantial loads for the life of your
deck. Pressure-treated lumber is your
best defense against rot or insect
damage. Select posts that are straight
and free of deep cracks, large knots, or
other natural defects that could
compromise their strength. Try not to
cut off the factory-treated ends when
trimming the posts to length; they
contain more of the treatment
chemicals and generally last longer
than cut ends. Face the factory ends
down against the post hardware where
water is more likely to accumulate.
Use galvanized metal post anchors
to attach the posts to concrete footings. If posts are set directly on
concrete, the ends won’t dry properly. You’ll also have a harder
time making the necessary mechanical connection to the footings.
Post anchors have drainage holes and pedestals that raise the ends
of the wood above the footings and improve drainage. Make sure
the posts are installed plumb for maximum strength.

Tools & Materials

Pencil
Framing square
Ratchet wrench and sockets (or impact driver)
Tape measure
Power miter saw or circular saw
Hammer
Drill/driver
Level
Speed square
Metal post anchors
J-bolts
Nuts and washers for J-bolts
6d galvanized common nails
10d galvanized joist hanger nails
2" drywall screws
Lumber for posts
Long, straight 2 × 4, 1 × 4s
Pointed 2 × 2 stakes
Safety equipment
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO ATTACH POST ANCHORS

Mark the top of each footing as a reference line for installing post
anchors. Lay a long, straight 2 × 4 flat across two or three concrete
footings, parallel to the ledger, with one edge tight against the J-
bolts.
Draw a reference line across each concrete footing, using the edge
of a 2 × 4 as a guide. Remove the 2 × 4.
Place a metal post anchor on each concrete footing, and center it
over the J-bolt.
Hand-thread a nut into each J-bolt, and use a framing square to
make sure the post anchor is positioned square to the reference line
drawn on the footing.
Tighten each nut securely with a ratchet wrench or impact driver.
 HOW TO SET POSTS

Use the elevation drawing from your design plan to find the length
of each post (A). Add 6" to the length for a cutting margin.
Cut posts with a circular saw or power miter saw. Make sure
factory-treated ends of posts are square. If necessary, square them
by trimming with a power miter saw or circular saw.
Place the post in the anchor and tack it into place with a single 6d
galvanized common nail. Do not drive the nail all the way in.
Brace the post with a 1 × 4. Place the 1 × 4 flat across the post so
that it crosses the post at a 45° angle about halfway up.
Attach the brace to the post temporarily with a single 2" drywall
screw.
Drive a pointed 2 × 2 stake into the ground next to the end of the
brace.
Use a level to make sure the post is plumb. Adjust the post, if
necessary.
Attach the brace to the stake with two 2" drywall screws.
Plumb and brace the post on the side perpendicular to the first
brace.
Attach the post to the post anchor with 10d galvanized joist
hanger nails. (You can also mark the post and then remove it and cut
it on the ground, then nail it in place.)
Position a straight board with one end on the ledger and the other
end across the face of the post. Level the board. Draw a line on the
post along the bottom of the board. This line indicates the top of the
joists.
From the line shown in step 11, measure down and mark the posts
a distance equal to the width of the joists.
Use a square to draw a line completely around the post. This line
indicates the top of the beam. From this line, repeat steps 11 and 12
to determine the bottom of the beam.
INSTALLING BEAMS

D eck beams attach to the posts to help support the weight of

the joists and decking. Installation methods depend on the
deck design and local codes, so check with a building inspector to
determine what is acceptable in your area.
In a saddle beam deck, the beam is attached directly on top of
the posts. Metal fasteners, called post-saddles, are used to align and
strengthen the beam-to-post connection. The advantage is that the
post bears the weight of the deck.
A notched-post deck requires 6 × 6 posts notched at the post top
to accommodate the full size of the beam. The deck’s weight is
transferred to the posts, as in a post-and-beam deck.
In years past, a third style of beam construction, called
sandwiching, was also generally acceptable for deck construction.
It consisted of two beams that straddled both sides of the post,
connected by long through bolts. Because this method has less
strength than the saddle or notched styles, it is no longer acceptable
under most building codes.
Deck beams, resting in a notch on the tops of the posts and secured
with through bolts and nuts, guarantee strong connections that will
bear the weight of your deck.

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Pencil
Circular saw
Paint brush
Speed square or combination square
Drill/driver and bits
Ratchet wrench and sockets or impact driver
Caulk gun
Reciprocating saw or handsaw
Pressure-treated lumber
Clear sealer-preservative
2 1/2" galvanized deck screws
10d joist hanger nails or 8d galvanized nails
Exterior-grade construction adhesive
Hammer
Wood preservative
Carriage bolts with washers and nuts
Silicone caulk
2-part post saddle or 1-piece saddle hardware
Clamps
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Fabricating Beams
Support beams for decks usually are fabricated on site by laminating
two or three lengthy pieces of dimensional lumber together. The
lumber, 2 × 8 or larger, should be exterior-rated. Pressure-treated pine is
a good choice. Some deckbuilders cut strips of 1/2-inch-thick exterior
plywood to the same dimension as the beam members and sandwich the
plywood between the boards. This increases the dimensional stability of
the beam, making it less likely to warp or twist. It also increases the
bearing strength and has the added advantage of increasing the total
thickness of the beam so it fits neatly into a post saddle designed for 4×
lumber (3 1/2-inches actual thickness). However, plywood is not a
required element in deck beams and may be left out if only for visual
reasons.
To make a laminated beam, select two straight boards of the same
dimension, taking particular care to avoid lumber that is twisted or
crowned. Lay the boards face to face to see which alignment comes
closest to flush on all sides. Apply exterior-grade construction adhesive
to one board and lay the mating board onto it. Drive a pair of 10d nails
near the end of the assembly to pin the boards together. Then, clamp the
beam members together every two to three feet, forcing the boards into
alignment as you go, if necessary. Drive 10d nails in a regular,
staggered pattern every 12 to 16 inches or so. Flip the beam over and
repeat the nailing pattern from the other side. For added strength, cross-
nail the beams at about a 30-degree angle periodically. If the beam
stock is longer than the required beam length, wait until the beam is
assembled before you trim it to length. Finally, apply wood preservative
to any cut end before you install the beam.
 Tip
Beams may be installed to support the deck joists from below, or you
may choose to attach joist hangers to the sides of the beams and hang
the joists so the tops are flush with the beam, as seen here.
 HOW TO MAKE A POST/BEAM
CONNECTION USING A TWO-PIECE
SADDLE

Fabricate the beam by face-nailing two (or three, depending on

your plan) pieces of identically sized dimensional lumber. See
previous page.
Measure along the beam to mark the post locations, making sure
the ends of the boards of a doubled beam are flush. Mark both the
near and far edges of each post onto the beam.
Use a speed square or combination square to transfer the post
marks onto the top and then the opposite face of the beam, allowing
you to make sure the post and post hardware align with both faces.
Cut the post to final height after securing it in place. Make two
passes with a circular saw and finish with a reciprocating saw or
handsaw. Take your time and try and get the cut as smooth and flat
as possible.
Set both halves of the two-part post saddle on top of the cut post,
spread as far apart as they can go. With a helper, lower the beam
into position on the post and then slide the two halves of the saddle
flush against the side of the beam.
Trace along the outside edge of each saddle half to mark their
position onto the top of the post. Remove the two-part saddle and
the beam.
Replace the saddle parts onto the post, aligned with the reference
marks you drew. Nail each saddle half to the post by driving joist
hanger nails or 8d galvanized nails through the holes in the nailing
flanges. Attach saddles on each post on which the beam will bear.
Replace the beam in position and secure it to the posts by driving
nails through the top nailing flanges of the saddle and into the beam.
 HOW TO MAKE A POST/BEAM
CONNECTION USING A ONE-PIECE
SADDLE

Cut the post to final height after securing it in place. Make two
passes with a circular saw and finish with a reciprocating saw.
Attach the saddle hardware to the top of the post using joist
hanger screws, 10d galvanized common nails, or joist hanger nails.
You must drive a fastener at every predrilled hole in the saddle
hardware.
Set the beam into the saddle, making sure the sides of the saddle
align with the layout marks on the beam.
Secure the beam into the saddle by driving galvanized common
nails or joist hanger screws through the predrilled holes in the top
half of the saddle.
 HOW TO INSTALL A BEAM FOR A
NOTCHED-POST DECK

Remove 6 × 6 posts from post anchors and cut to finished height.

Measure and mark a notch at the top of each post, sized to fit the
thickness and width of the beam. Trace the lines on all sides using a
framing square.
Use a circular saw to rough-cut the notches, then switch to a
reciprocating saw or hand saw to finish. Reattach posts to the post
anchors, with the notch-side facing away from the deck.
With someone’s help, lift the beam (crown side up) into the
notches. Align the beam and clamp it to the post. Counterbore two
1/2"-deep holes, using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then drill 1/2" pilot holes
through the beam and post, using a 1/2" auger bit.
Insert carriage bolts in to each pilot hole. Add a washer and nut
to the counterbore-side of each, and tighten using a ratchet. Seal
both ends with silicone caulk. Apply self-sealing membrane to top
surfaces of beam and posts if necessary.
HANGING JOISTS

J oists provide support for the decking boards. They are attached
to the ledger and header joist with galvanized metal joist
hangers and are nailed or strapped to the top of the beam.
For strength and durability, use pressure-treated lumber for all
joists. The exposed outside joists and header joist can be faced with
composite or cedar boards for a more attractive appearance.

Metal joist hangers attached to rim joists or ledgers are practically

foolproof for hanging intermediate deck joists. Look for hanger
hardware that is triple-dipped galvanized metal or stainless steel.
 Tools & Materials
Tape measure
Pencil
Hammer
Combination square
Circular saw or power miter saw
Paintbrush
Drill
Twist bits (1/8", 1/4")
Pressure-treated lumber
Joist-hanger hardware
10d joist hanger nails
Scrap board spacer
10d and 16d galvanized common nails
Clear sealer-preservative
Joist angle brackets
Metal corner brackets
Galvanized metal or stainless steel joist hangers
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO HANG JOISTS

Use your deck plan to find the spacing (A) between joists, and the
length of inner joists (B), outside joists (C), and rim joist (D).
Measure and mark lumber for outside joists, using a combination
square as a guide. Cut joists with a miter or circular saw. Seal cut
ends with clear sealer-preservative.
Attach joist hanger hardware near each end of the ledger board,
according to your layout. Previous building codes allowed you to
face nail the joists into the ends of the ledger, but this is no longer
accepted practice. Attach only enough fasteners to hold the hanger
in position while you square up the joist layout.
Attach the outside joists to the top of the beam by toenailing them
with 10d galvanized common nails.
Trim off the ends of structural lumber to get a clean straight edge.
Measure and cut the rim joist. Seal cut ends with clear sealer-
preservative. Drill 1/8" pilot holes at each end of the rim joist. Attach
the rim joist to ends of outside joists with 16d galvanized common
nails. For extra reinforcement, add metal corner brackets to the
inside corner joints.
Finish nailing the end joist hangers, making sure you have a joist
hanger nail in every punched hole in the hanger.
Measure along the ledger from the edge of the outside joist, and
mark where the joists will be attached to the ledger.
Draw the outline of each joist on the ledger, using a square as a
guide.
Measure along the beam from the outside joist, and mark where
joists will cross the beam. Draw the outlines across the top of both
beam boards.
Measure along the header joist from the outside joist, and mark
where joists will be attached to the header joist. Draw the outlines on
the inside of the header, using a square as a guide. Install the joist
hangers on the rim joist.
Attach joist hangers to the ledger. Position each hanger so that
one of the flanges is against the joist outline. Nail one flange to
framing members with 10d galvanized joist hanger nails.
Cut a scrap board to use as a spacer. Hold the spacer inside each
joist hanger, then close the hanger around the spacer.
Nail the remaining side flange to the framing member with 10d
joist hanger nails. Remove the spacer.
Measure and mark lumber for joists, using a combination square
as a guide. Cut joists with a circular saw or power miter saw.
Seal cut ends with clear sealer-preservative. Place the joists in
the hangers with crowned edge up.
Attach the ledger joist hangers to the joists with joist hanger
nails. Drive nails into both sides of each joist.
Align the joists with the outlines drawn on the top of the beam.
Anchor the joists to the beam by toenailing from both sides with 10d
galvanized nails.
Option: End nail the joists to reinforce the connections by driving
10d galvanized nails through the rim joist and into the inner joists. If
you will not be cladding the rim joists and it will be visible, use 10d
galvanized finish nails.

Alternate Method
Fasten joists to beams using H-fit joist ties for strength and durability.
LAYING DECKING

B uy decking boards that are long enough to span the width of

the deck, if possible. If you have to use more than one, butt
the boards end-to-end over a joist. Stagger butted joints so that they
do not overlap row to row.
Install decking so that there is a gap approximately 1/8 inch
between boards to provide drainage. You can use a nail as a spacer
between rows. Some wood boards naturally “cup” as they age. Lay
the boards with the bark side facing down, so that any cupping
occurs on the bottom side, and to prevent the board from holding
water on the top.
The common installation method for wood decking is shown
here. We’ve limited the discussion to face-screwing boards to
joists, but you can nail the boards down as well. However, nailing
is rarely used on modern decking because it requires as much work,
and nails inevitably pop down the road. Screws are just more
efficient. If you do decide to nail boards down, use 10d galvanized
common nails, angling the nails toward each other to improve
holding power. Composite and plastic deck boards are never nailed
down. For a much sleeker appearance, you can choose from the
large number of “invisible” fasteners on the market. The
technology for these has come a long way and, whether you’re
using wood, composite, or another type of deck boards, hidden
fasteners are an easy and quick option to screwing the boards
down. In any case, always follow the installation instructions and
methods recommended by the manufacturer of the product you
select.
 Tools & Materials
Tape measure
Circular saw
Screwgun
Hammer
Drill
1/8" twist bit
Pry bar
Chalk line
Jigsaw or handsaw
Decking boards
2 1/2" corrosion-resistant deck screws
Galvanized common nails (8d, 10d)
Redwood or cedar facing boards
Decking spacer tool
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO LAY DECKING

Position the first row of decking flush against the house. The first
decking board should be perfectly straight, and should be precut to
proper length. Attach the first decking board by driving a pair of 2 1/2"
corrosion-resistant deck screws into each joist.
Position remaining decking boards so that ends overhang outside
joists. Space boards about 1/8" apart. Attach boards to each joist with
a pair of 2 1/2" deck screws driven into each joist.
If the boards are bowed, use a pry bar to maneuver them into
position while fastening.
Drill 1/8" pilot holes in the ends of boards before attaching them to
the outside joists. Pilot holes prevent screws from splitting decking
boards at ends.
After every few rows of decking are installed, measure from the
edge of the decking board to the edge of header joist. If the
measurements show that the last board will not fit flush against the
edge of the deck, adjust board spacing.
Adjust board spacing by changing the gaps between boards by a
small amount over three or four rows of boards. Very small spacing
changes will not be obvious to the eye. Tip: Although 10d common
nails can be used as spacers to keep gaps even, a decking spacer
tool (inset) is easier to manage.
Use a chalk line to mark the edge of the decking flush with the
outside of deck. Cut off decking, using a circular saw. Set the saw
blade 1/8" deeper than the thickness of the decking so that the saw
will not cut the side of the deck. At areas where the circular saw
cannot reach, finish the cutoff with a jigsaw or handsaw.
For a more attractive appearance, clad the exposed structural
members of the deck with fascia boards. Miter cut the corners, and
attach the boards with deck screws or 8d galvanized nails.
Generally, it is preferable to have the decking overlap the top edges
of the fascia so you are not creating a gap where debris can collect.
If you are using non-wood decking, many decking manufacturers
offer non-wood fascia and trim that match the color, style and texture
of the decking.
 COMPOSITE AND PVC DECKING

Lay composite decking as you would wood decking (pages 202 to

203). Position with the factory crown up so water will run off, and
space rows 1/8" to 1/4" apart for drainage.
Predrill pilot holes at 3/4 the diameter of the fasteners, but do not
countersink. Composite materials allow fasteners to set themselves.
Use the fastener recommended by the manufacturer.
Alternate Method: Attach composite decking with self-tapping
composite screws. These specially designed screws require no pilot
holes. If the decking “mushrooms” over the screw head, use a
hammer to tap the decking back in place.
Lay remaining decking. For boards 16-ft. or shorter, leave a gap at
deck ends and any butt joints, 1/16" for every 20°F difference
between the temperature at the time of installation and the expected
high temperature for the year.
BUILDING STAIRS

H ow you build stairs and

railings for your deck is
perhaps the most tightly
regulated portion of the building
code related to decks. Whenever
you are in doubt about
measurements for deck stairs—
or wondering if you even need
to install stairs in the first place
—consult the local building
codes or local building
inspector. Basically, designing
deck stairs involves four
calculations:
The number of stairs
depends on the vertical drop of
the deck—the distance from the
deck surface to the nearest
ground level.
Rise is the vertical space
between treads. The proper rise
prevents stumbling on the stairs.
Most codes call for a maximum rise of 7 3/4 inches; a lower rise
generally makes it easier to ascend or descend the stairs. The
thickness of one tread is added to the space between steps to
determine actual rise.
Run is the depth of the treads, and is usually a minimum of 10
inches, although the deeper the tread, the more comfortable the
stairs will be. Stair step thickness is also dictated by code and is
usually a minimum of 1 inch, although most builders use 2×
lumber for stair steps. A convenient way to build step treads is by
using two 2 × 6s.
Span is calculated by multiplying the run by the number of
treads. The span helps you locate the end of the stairway so that
you can properly position the posts.
Specifications for other elements such as the stringers and the
method of attachment used to connect stairs to decking are also
usually mandated in local codes. For instance, stringers normally
have to be at least 1 1/2 inches thick.
Although there are different ways to construct stairs, the same
basic code requirements apply to any staircase used with a deck.

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Pencil
Framing square
Level
Plumb bob
Clamshell posthole digger
Wheelbarrow
Hoe
Circular saw
Hammer
Drill
1/8" twist bit
1 3/8" spade bit
Ratchet wrench
Caulk gun
Sand
Portland cement
Skewable joist hangers
Gravel
J-bolts
Metal post anchors
2 × 12 lumber
2 × 6 lumber
Metal cleats
1/4" × 1 1/4" lag screws
Joist angle brackets
10d joist hanger nails
1/2 × 4" lag screws and 1 3/8" washers
Metal tread cleats
3" deck screws or through-bolts
10d common nails
16d galvanized common nails
Silicone caulk
Long, straight 2 × 4
Pointed stakes
Masking tape
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO MAKE STAIR STRINGERS

Lay out the stair stringers. Use tape to mark the rise measurement
on one leg of a framing square, and the run measurement on the
other leg. Beginning at one end of the stringer, position the square
with tape marks flush to edge of the board, and outline the rise and
run for each step. Then draw in the tread outline against the bottom
of each run line. Use a circular saw to trim the ends of the stringers
as shown. (When cutting the stringers for stairs without metal cleats,
just cut on the solid lines.)
Attach metal tread cleats flush with the bottom of each tread
outline, using 1/4" × 1 1/4" lag screws. Drill 1/8" pilot holes to prevent
the screws from splitting the wood.
Attach angle brackets to the upper ends of the stringers, using 10d
joist hanger nails. Brackets should be flush with the cut ends of the
stringers.
 HOW TO BUILD BASIC DECK STAIRS

Use the stairway elevation drawings to confirm your design,

including the locations of the stair stringers and posts. Use a pencil
and framing square to outline where stair stringers will be attached to
the side of the deck.
Locate the post footings according to your plan. Lay a straight 2
× 4 on the deck so that it is level and square to the side of the deck.
Measure out along the 2 × 4 and use a plumb bob or level to mark
the ground at footing centerpoints.
Dig holes and pour the footings for posts. Attach metal post
anchors to the footings and install the posts. Check with your
building department to find out if 6 × 6 posts are now required. See
pages 172 to 183 for more information on locating and pouring
footings.
Attach the stair stringers to the deck joist that supports them,
using skewable joist hangers designed for use with stair stringers.
Here, a prefabricated four-step stringer cut from pressure-treated
pine is shown.
Attach the bottoms of the stringer to the stair railing posts using
several 3" deck screws or through-bolts.
Attach a 2 × 4 brace to the bottom ends of the stringers to help
prevent racking. You’ll need to trim 1 1/2" from the bottom end of any
intermediate stringers so the ends of the brace will butt against the
inside faces of the outer stringers. Measure from the outside edges
of the outer stringers to find the required tread length. Add an inch of
overhang to each end if you wish.
Begin positioning the treads on the stringers, starting at the top.
Two 5/4 × 6" decking boards or two 2 × 6 boards are just the right
width to create a stair tread. The top of the tread on the top step
should be flush with the decking.
Attach the stair treads with 3" deck screws. Especially when
working on the outer stringers where the screws are near the ends of
the board you should drill pilot holes for the screws.
Finish installing the treads, using a spacer such as a 10d common
nail to maintain and check the gaps between tread boards. If your
staircase has more than three steps you’re required to install a
railing with a graspable handrail.
DECK RAILING BASICS

R ailings must be sturdy and firmly attached to the framing

members of the deck. Never attach railing posts to the
surface decking. Check local building codes for guidelines
regarding railing construction. Most codes require that railings be
at least 36 inches above decking. Vertical balusters should be
spaced no more than 4 inches apart. In some areas, a grippable
handrail may be required for any stairway over four treads. Check
with your local building inspector for the building codes in your
area.
Refer to your deck design plan for spacing (A) and length of railing
posts and balusters. Balusters should be placed so that there is no
more than a 4" gap between adjacent balusters. Posts should be
spaced no more than 6 ft. apart.
Railings are mandatory safety features for any deck that’s more
than 30" above grade. There are numerous code issues and
stipulations that will dictate how you build your deck railings. Consult
with your local building inspector for any code clarification you may
need.

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Pencil
Power miter saw
Drill
Twist bits (1/8", 3/8")
1 3/8" spade bit
Combination square
Awl
Ratchet wrench or impact driver
Caulk gun
Reciprocating saw
Circular saw
Jigsaw with wood-cutting blade
Miter saw
Level
Clear sealer-preservative
Railing lumber (4 × 4s, 2 × 6s, 2 × 4s, 2 × 2s)
3/8 × 4 1/2" lag screws and 1 3/8" washers
Silicone caulk
2 1/2" corrosion-resistant deck screws
10d galvanized common nails
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 TYPES OF RAILINGS

Vertical balusters are a traditional look, well suited to a range of

home and deck styles, and the most common type of railing
construction used on decks. The balusters can be made of wood,
metal, or composite to vary the look.
Horizontal railings are often used on low, ranch-style homes.
Horizontal railings are made of vertical posts, two or more wide
horizontal rails, and a railing cap. There should be no more than 4"
between the horizontal railings.
Lattice panels add a decorative touch to a deck. They also provide
extra privacy and are the easiest railing filler to install.

Railing Codes
Railings are required by building codes on any deck that is 30" above
existing grade, although they are handy even on lower decks. The style
of railing is, however, not mandated by code. You can choose from
among the many railing styles to match the architectural style of your
home, or—as is more commonly done—pick a railing style that
complements the deck itself. Wood railings can be fabricated in many
different styles; composite railings are usually matched in both color
and detailing to the deck color and style. Synthetic railings can even be
formed into complex curving shapes as necessary. Codes may require
that you add easily gripped handrails on stairs with more than four
risers. Always check with your local building department to ensure
compliance with local codes.

Preshaped products let you easily build decorative deck railings. Railing products
include shaped handrails, balusters, and posts.
 HOW TO INSTALL A WOOD DECK RAILING

Measure and cut 4 × 4 posts, using a power miter saw or circular

saw. Cut the tops of the posts square, and cut the bottoms at a 45°
angle. Seal cut ends of lumber with clear sealer-preservative.
Measure and cut the balusters for the main deck railing, using a
power miter saw or circular saw. Cut the tops of the balusters
square, and cut the bottoms at a 45° angle. Seal cut ends of lumber
with clear sealer-preservative.
Drill two 3/8" pilot holes spaced 2" apart through the bottom end of
each post. Counterbore each pilot hole to 1/2" depth, using a 1 3/8"
spade bit.
Drill two 1/8" pilot holes spaced 4" apart near the bottom end of
each baluster. Drill two 1/8" pilot holes at the top of each baluster,
spaced 1 1/2" apart.
Measure and mark the position of posts around the outside of the
deck, using a combination square as a guide. Plan to install a post
on the outside edge of each stair stringer.
Position each post with the beveled end flush with the bottom of
the deck. Plumb the post with a level. Insert a screwdriver or the 3/8"
drill bit into the pilot holes and mark the side of the deck.
Remove the post and drill 3/8" holes into the side of the deck.
Attach railing posts to the side of the deck with 3/8 × 4 1/2" lag
screws and washers, using a ratchet wrench or impact driver. Seal
the screw heads with silicone caulk.
Measure and cut 2 × 4 side rails. Position the rails with their edges
flush to the tops of the posts, and attach them to the posts with 2 1/2"
corrosion-resistant deck screws.
Join 2 × 4s for long rails by cutting the ends at 45° angles. Drill 1/8"
pilot holes to prevent nails from splitting the end grain, and attach the
rails with 10d galvanized nails. (Screws may split mitered ends.)
Attach the ends of rails to the stairway posts, flush with the
edges of the posts, as shown. Drill 1/8" pilot holes, and attach the
rails with 2 1/2" deck screws.
At a stairway, measure from the surface of the decking to the top of
the upper stairway post (A).
Transfer measurement A to the lower stairway post, measuring
from the edge of the stair stringer.
Position a 2 × 4 rail against the inside of the stairway posts. Align
the rail with the top rear corner of the top post and with the pencil
mark on the lower post. Have a helper attach the rail temporarily with
2 1/2" deck screws.
Mark the outline of the post and the deck rail on the back side of
the stairway rail.
Mark the outline of the stairway rail on the lower stairway post.
Mark a plumb cutoff line at the bottom end of the stairway rail.
Remove the rail.
Extend the pencil lines across both sides of the stairway post,
using a combination square as a guide and straightedge.
Cut off the lower stairway post along the diagonal cutoff line, using
a reciprocating saw or circular saw.
Use a circular saw to cut the stairway rail along the marked
outlines.
Position the stairway rail flush against the top edge of the posts.
Drill 1/8" pilot holes, then attach the rail to the posts with 2 1/2" deck
screws.
Use a spacer block to ensure equal spacing between not to exceed
4 balusters. Beginning next to a plumb railing post, position each
baluster tight against the spacer block, with the top of the baluster
flush to the top of rail. Attach each baluster with 2 1/2" deck screws.
For the stairway, position the baluster against the stringer and rail,
and adjust for plumb. Draw a diagonal cutoff line on top of the
baluster, using the top of the stair rail ensuring that the space does
not exceed 4" as a guide. Cut the baluster on the marked line, using
a power miter saw. Seal the ends with clear sealer-preservative.
Beginning next to the upper stairway post, position each baluster
tight against the spacer block, with the top flush to the top of the stair
rail. Predrill and attach the baluster with 2 1/2" deck screws.
Position the 2 × 6 cap so that the edge is flush with the rail’s inside
edge. Drill 1/8" pilot holes and attach the cap to the rail with 2 1/2"
deck screws every 12". Drive screws into each post and into every
third baluster. For long caps, bevel the ends at 45°. Drill 1/16" pilot
holes and nail to the post with 10d nails.
At the corners, miter the ends of the railing cap at 45°. Drill 1/8" pilot
holes, and attach the cap to the post with 2 1/2" deck screws.
At the top of the stairs, cut the cap so that it is flush with the
stairway rail. Drill 1/8" pilot holes and attach the cap with 2 1/2" deck
screws.
Measure and cut the cap for the stairway rail. Mark the outline of
the post on the side of the cap, and bevel cut the ends of the cap.
Position the cap over the stairway rail and balusters so that the edge
of the cap is flush with the inside edge of the rail.
Drill 1/8" pilot holes and attach the cap to the rail with 2 1/2" deck
screws driven every 12". Also drive screws through the cap into the
stair post and into every third baluster.
 WOOD RAILING STYLE VARIATIONS

Vertical baluster railings are a popular style because they

complement most house styles. To improve the strength and
appearance of the railing, the advanced variation shown here uses a
“false mortise” design. The 2 × 2 balusters are mounted on 2 × 2
horizontal rails that slide into mortises notched into the posts.

Horizontal railing best visually complements ranch-style or modern

houses with predominantly horizontal lines. For improved strength
and a more attractive appearance, the style shown here features 1 ×
4 rails set on edge into dadoes cut in the faces of the posts. A cap
rail running over all posts and top rails helps unify and strengthen the
railing.

Wall-style railing is framed with short 2 × 4 stud walls attached

flush with the edges of the deck. The stud walls and rim joists are
then covered with siding materials, usually chosen to match the
siding on the house. A wall-style railing creates a more private space
and visually draws the deck into the home, providing a unified
appearance.

Stairway railings are required for any stairway with more than three
steps. They are usually designed to match the style used on the
deck railing.
FLOATING OCTAGON ISLAND DECK

S ometimes all you need is a simple, easy-to-build platform to

complete an otherwise perfect backyard. The project shown
here is an “island deck,” detached from the house and requiring no
ledger attachment.
That means it has the simplest of foundations; a set of pre-cast
concrete pier blocks that are simply set in place, making them far
easier to work with than poured footings. The piers are cast to a
standardized shape and size: 10 inches square and 10 inches high,
with slots in the top to accommodate joists and posts. Because the
pier blocks are not secured in the ground, the deck “floats.” This
allows for movement in response to settling and the freeze-thaw
cycle of the soil. Floating pier decks meet most local codes—but
check yours just to be sure.
This deck is also low enough to the ground that it won’t require
a handrail (unless, in your particular case, the yard slopes severely
off to one side).
Cutaway View

Tools & Materials

Preformed concrete pier blocks (25)
3" galvanized deck screws
Circular saw
Miter saw
Power drill and bits
Stain or sealer
Level
Chalk line
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Cutting List
Key A
Qty 8
Size 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 49 3/4"
Part Joist
Material PT pine

Key B
Qty 25
Size 3 1/2 × 3 1/2 × (cut to fit)
Part Post
Material PT pine

Key C
Qty 6
Size 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 13 1/2"
Part Spreader
Material PT pine

Key D
Qty 22
Size 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × (cut to fit)
Part Decking
Material PT pine
Framing Plan
Decking Detail
 HOW TO BUILD A FLOATING OCTAGON
DECK
POSITION THE PIERS
Clear any large rocks or debris from the area over which the deck
will be positioned. Measure and mark the locations for the pier
blocks. Set out the pier blocks for the center of the deck; you’ll
start by building the center “box” rectangle off of which all the
other joists will be leveled.
Position three rows of three blocks each. The rows for this deck
were placed 46 1/2 inches OC row to row, with 1 1/2 inches OC
between the pier blocks in each row. Check that each pier block is
level, adding or removing dirt underneath to level it as necessary.
Position the piers accurately to ensure a stable deck. They need
to be the proper distance from each other and level side to side.

BUILD THE CENTER BOX

Set a 10-foot-long 2 × 6 joist on edge in the slots of the three pier
blocks along one end of each row. Hold a carpenter’s level along
the top of the joist as a helper raises or lowers the lowest end of the
joist. With the helper holding the joist level, measure any gaps
between the bottom of the joist and the pier block sockets.
Leveling a joist is a job that calls for a helper. You’ll need to focus
on the precise measurements for the posts, if any.

Once the posts are cut, it’s important to check the joists for level in
place. Only screw the joists down when the preliminary “box” for the
frame is complete.

The first two opposite band joists complete the box.

Check diagonal measurements of the foundation center box. This
must be square because the rest of the deck is built off the box. If
the diagonal measurements are off at all, adjust the “box” until they
match.
Complete the center of the deck frame by screwing the center joist
into place, attaching it to the band joists on either end.

Cut 4 × 4 posts to match the gap measurements, and place the

posts in the pier block sockets. Set the 2 × 6 joist on top of the
posts, if any, and check for level again. Adjust as necessary.
Repeat the process with a joist set in the sockets of the outside
blocks on the other end of each row. Position the joist as before,
and check level with the aid of a helper. Once you’ve established
level along the length of the second joist, make sure the joists are
level side to side.
Now cut 2 × 6 band joists for the ends of the floor joists. The
band joists will be 49 3/4 inches long. Measure and mark the band
joist so that it will extend equal lengths from both sides of where it
is screwed to the floor joists.
Use 3-inch deck screws to screw the band joists to each end of
the floor joists to create the center box of the deck floor frame.
 Ensure this box is square by measuring diagonally both ways. If
the frame is square, the diagonal measurements should be exactly
the same.
Position the center joist in this box, cutting 4 × 4 posts as
necessary to keep the joist level along its length and in relation to
the two outside joists. Screw the band joist into the end of the
center floor joist, completing the frame center box. Screw the joists
to their 4 × 4 posts in toenail fashion.
COMPLETE THE FRAME
Measure and set the remaining pier blocks in place on both sides of
the center frame box. There should be a row of three piers and a
row of two piers on each side of the center box, as shown in the
Framing Plan (page 222).
Cut and position the outer floor joists in the octagon, leveling them
in place as before.

Install the blocking to support the side piers. Once level, screw the
outside joist to the 4 × 4 posts (if any) with the joist positioned so that
the overhang on both sides is equal.
Drive 3" screws through the mitered ends to secure the band joists
to one another. Use three screws per connection. Complete the
outside frame by screwing diagonal band joists onto the mitered
ends of the middle floor joists, and to the band joists.
Install the decking boards, allowing for overhang that will be
trimmed at the end of construction.

Cut the shorter outside floor joists to length. Set them in place in
the outside piers, and measure and level as before. Cut 4 × 4s as
necessary, and set the outside joists in position. Miter the two
outside joist ends 22 1/2°. Screw all joists to the posts in toenail
fashion.
Complete the outside frame by cutting the remaining six band
joists. Miter the ends of the four diagonal band joists 22 1/2° before
installing them. Drill pilot holes and screw the band joists to the
spacer blocks using 3-inch deck screws. Install the remaining joists.
At each end, the band joists will extend beyond the outside row of
pier blocks so no blocks will be visibly exposed at the edge of the
deck.

INSTALL THE DECKING

Begin laying the decking at one edge of the octagon, so that the
decking lays perpendicular to the floor joists. Place the first deck
board into position with its edge aligned with the edge of the band
joist. Screw down each decking board using two 3-inch deck
screws per joist.
Continue laying the decking, allowing the boards to overhang
the edges of the band joists. Maintain a 1/8-inch gap between
boards.
When all the decking boards have been screwed down, snap a
chalk line along the edges over which the deck boards hang; use a
circular saw equipped with a carbide blade to cut the deck board
ends so that the decking is flush with the band joists.
Stain, paint, or finish the deck as you prefer, including the rim
joists. Add other built-on structures to suit your needs.
Lay the rest of the decking boards by screwing them down to the
joists, maintaining a 1/8" spacing between boards.

Use a circular saw equipped with a carbide blade to make quick

work of trimming the ends of the deck boards, leaving a clean edge.
DECK BENCHES

A well-designed deck bench can often serve double duty.

Installed along the perimeter of a low-lying deck, a long
bench adds visual interest to what is often a fairly uninteresting
uniform shape. Benches with built-in backs can stand in for railings
on higher decks, ensuring the safety, as well as comfort, of
everyone.
You can build fully enclosed deck benches to create useful
additional storage—a handy way to hide sporting goods and
cookout gear when they are not in use. Benches are also the perfect
partner to planters, visually linking one or more independent mini-
gardens.
Of course, the most important role any deck bench fulfills is that
of accessible, durable, and comfortable seating on the deck. If you
can measure accurately and operate a miter saw precisely, you can
complete this bench in a weekend. It’s a good idea to drive screws
up through the underside of the deck into the legs so that the screws
are completely invisible.
Improve the look and comfort of a deck with a built-in bench.
Building one is fairly easy, whether you’re retrofitting an existing deck
or adding one as part of a brand-new platform.

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Circular saw
Miter saw
Power drill
4 × 4 lumber
1 × 4 lumber
2 × 4 lumber
2 × 6 lumber
3 prefab braces and hardware
1" spade bit
Depth gauge
3/8" drill bit
Pressure-treated 2 × 4s
3" galvanized deck screws
2 1/2" decking screws
5 × 3/8" lag screws
3/8" lag bolts and washers
Bar clamps
Long, thin spike or awl
Wood glue
Finish
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO BUILD A DECK-MOUNTED BENCH

Cut six 15"-long legs from 4 × 4s. Cut 3 bases from the same
material as the legs. Each base should be 4" long.
Place a leg on the worktable with a scrap piece underneath. Mark
and drill a 1" hole, 1/2" deep, 1 1/2" up from the bottom of the leg on
the outside face (use a depth gauge on a spade bit). Change to a
3/8" bit to complete the pilot hole, drilling a hole in the center of the
larger hole, and through the other side of the leg.
Drill identical base holes on all the other legs. Place a base in
position against the inside edges of two legs, aligned with the bottom
of the legs. Stick a long thin spike, awl, or other marking device
through the hole to mark the location of the pilot holes on each end
of the base.
Remove the base and drill 1/4" pilot holes into the ends at the
marks. Repeat with all the bases and mark each base for the legs it
goes with.
Measure and cut the leg top plates. These can be pressure-
treated 2 × 4s because they won’t be visible once the bench is
assembled. Cut three plates 16 1/2" long. Make marks on the long
edges of the plates 2 3/4" from each end.
Complete the leg assemblies by aligning the edge marks on each
top plate with the outside edges of the legs, and drilling two pilot
holes through the top of the plate into each leg. Attach the plates to
the legs with 3" screws.
Cut three 2 × 6s, each exactly 6 ft. long, for the seat. Lay them side
by side, clamped together with the ends aligned. Mark the leg
positions across the boards. The end leg units should be 2" from
each end. The center leg unit should be centered along the span.
Note: Make attaching the legs to the decking easier and more secure
by determining leg position along the deck before attaching them to
the seat. Center each leg board on top of a decking board so that
you can screw into the center of the board to secure the legs.
Set the leg assemblies in place, upside down on the 2 × 6s, using
the marks for reference. Screw through the bottom of the top plates
into the seat boards. Use two 2 1/2" decking screws per 2 × 6, for
each leg unit.
Cut two 2 × 4 side frame pieces 6'3" long, and two end pieces 19
1/2" long. Miter each edge 45° and dry fit the frame around the
outside of the bench seat.
Assemble the frame by attaching the end pieces to the ends of the
2 × 6s, and the side pieces to the pressure-treated top plates. Use 3"
deck screws to secure the frame pieces in place. Drill pilot holes
through the miters and screw the frame pieces to each other.
Position the bench on the deck. Mark the leg base locations.
Remove the bench and drill pilot holes for each base, down through
the base and deck board. Use a spade bit to countersink the holes.
Drive 3/8" lag screws down through the bases into the deck boards.
Put the bench into position and secure it to the bases using 3/8" lag
bolts and washers.
For a more finished look, cut plugs from the same wood as the
legs, and glue them into place to cover the lag bolt heads in the
sides of the legs. Sand as necessary, and finish the bench with
whatever finish you prefer.
 VARIATION: HOW TO BUILD AN EDGE-
MOUNTED BENCH
This project is an edge-mounted bench built by using prefab braces
(See Resources, page 553) that make constructing the bench much
easier. It has a canted back that allows a person to lean back and
relax, and is mounted right to the band joist. We’ve built this as a
double bench, with mitered boards on one side so that the benches
look like a continuous unit.

Attach the first bracket centered along the band joist 6" from where
the bench will end. Screw it to the decking and band joist using the 1
1/ 2"
screws and washers provided, screwing through the holes in the
bracket.

Attach the second bracket on the band joist, no more than 24"
away from the first bracket. Screw two brackets to the adjacent band
joist in exactly the same pattern.
Measure and mark six 2 × 6s for the seats and top caps of the
benches. The boards should be same width on the inside edge as
the band joist, mitered out to the wider back edge 22 1/2°, so that the
members of each bench butt flush against each other.
Cut four 2 × 4 back supports 41" long. Miter the top ends 12°.
Position each back support in a bracket, mark the 2 × 4 through the
holes in the brackets, and drill for the mounting bolts. Attach the back
supports with the 2 1/2" bolts supplied, using washers on both sides.

Tools & Materials

Miter saw
Tape measure
2 × 6 Lumber
2 × 4 Lumber
1" screws
2 1/2" deck screws
Power drill & bits
 Prefab deck braces and hardware
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Position the top cap on top of the back supports, leaving a 3/4"
overhang in the back. Drill pilot holes and screw the top caps to the
back supports with 2 1/2" deck screws, with the mitered edges
meeting on the inside corner between the two bench segments.
Screw the seat boards into position the same way, driving the
supplied 1" screws up through the bottom of the leg brackets, into
the 2 × 6 seat boards.

Measure and miter twelve 2 × 4 back and leg boards in the same
way as you did the seat and top cap boards, but with the boards on
edge. Butt the top back board up underneath the top cap, so that the
mitered end is positioned on the inside corner between the two
bench segments. Screw it into the back supports using 2 1/2" deck
screws. Attach the two remaining back boards in the same way,
leaving a 2" gap between the boards.

Position the seat skirt on the front of the bench seat in the same
way you positioned the seat boards. Mark and drill pilot holes, and
screw the skirt to the front 2 × 6 using 2 1/2" deck screws. Screw the
first leg board into position using 1" screws driven through the holes
in the bracket, and screw 2 × 4 blocks as spacers.
Attach the back, seat, and leg boards on the adjacent bench
section in the same way, making sure that the mitered edges leave a
1" gap between the two bench sections. Inset: Install added support
behind the back boards where the adjacent benches meet using
scrap blocking and deck screws.
DECK SKIRTING

E levated decks are often the best solution for a sloped yard or a
multi-story house. A deck on high can also take advantage of
spectacular views. But the aesthetic drawback to many elevated
decks is the view from other parts of the yard. The supporting
structure can seem naked and unattractive.
The solution is to install deck skirting. Skirting is essentially a
framed screen attached to support posts. Skirting effectively creates
a visual base on an elevated deck and adds a more finished look to
the entire structure. It looks attractive on just about any deck.
There are many different types of skirting. The project here uses
lattice skirting, perhaps the most common and easiest to install. But
you can opt for solid walls of boards run vertically or horizontally,
depending on the look you’re after and how much time and money
you’re willing to spend. However, keep in mind that lattice allows
for air circulation underneath the deck. If you install solid skirting,
you may need to add vents to prevent rot or other moisture related
conditions under the deck. Codes also require that you allow access
to egress windows, electrical panels, and other utilities under the
deck, which may involve adding a gate or other structure to the
skirting.
Regardless of the design, the basic idea behind building skirting
is to create a supporting framework that runs between posts, with
the skirting surface attached to the framework. Obviously, this
provides the opportunity to add a lot of style to an elevated deck.
The lattice skirting shown here is fairly easy on the eyes. If you
choose to use boards instead, you can arrange them in intriguing
patterns, just as you would design a showcase fence for your
property. You can use wood skirting of the same species as the
decking, or vary the material to create a more captivating look. You
can even build in a storage space underneath the deck—a perfect
location for lawnmowers, leaf blowers, and other yard equipment.

Tools & Materials

Measuring tape
Speed square
Circular saw
Miter saw
Power drill & bits
3" deck screws
Work gloves
3/4" exterior grade lattice panel
1 × 4 pressure-treated lumber
2" galvanized finish nails
Angle and T braces
3/4" galvanized screws
Paint or other finish
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO INSTALL DECK SKIRTING

Determine the length of the skirting sections by measuring the

space between posts. Measure on center and mark the posts. At
corners, measure from the outer edge of the corner post to the
center of the next post in line. Determine the height of the skirting by
measuring from the top of a post to grade leaving at least 1"
between the skirt bottom and ground.
Snap a chalk line 1" above the bottom of the post, and use a speed
square to find the angle of the slope. Cut the top and side frame
sections for the skirting from 1 × 4 pressure-treated lumber. You can
also use cedar or other rot- and insect-resistant material.
Cut the ends of the frame pieces to fit. Assemble the 1 × 4 frame
using galvanized angle brackets.
Cut the 3/4" lattice to dimensions of the frame, using a circular saw
or jigsaw. Align the lattice on the back of the 1 × 4 frame, and screw
the lattice to the frame about every 10" using 3/4" galvanized screws.
Install each finished lattice skirting section as soon as it is
assembled. Align the edges of the frame with the marks you’ve made
on the posts and drill pilot holes through the front of the frame and
lattice into the post. Screw the section to the post with 3" galvanized
deck screws, using a screw at the top, bottom, and middle of the
frame.
Optional: If the length between posts is greater than 8 ft., add stiles
in the frame to support extra lattice panels. Cut 1 × 4 stiles to length
so that they fit between the top and bottom rails. Screw it in place by
using a 4" or larger T brace on the back of the frame. Then nail the
lattice in place.
Once the skirting is in place, finish it to match the deck or your
house. If you have access to spray equipment, you’ll find that lattice
can be painted much faster with it than with a brush or roller.
FENCES & WALLS

C rawling across a rolling

field or guarding a
suburban home, a fence or wall
defines space and creates a
backdrop for the enclosed
landscape. Its materials, style,
shape, and colors set a tone that
may even tell you something
about what you’ll find on the
other side.
Traditional picket fences conjure up images of cottage gardens
and children playing. Post and rail fences often surround rustic
landscapes or pastures; long expanses of a white board fence can
make you believe there might be horses over the next hill. Privacy
fences, such as board and stringer, or security fences, such as chain
link, produce images of swimming pools sparkling in the sun.
Landscape walls can serve many purposes: They can define
property boundaries, separate living areas within the yard, and
screen off unpleasant views or utility spaces. Durable masonry
walls, such as glass block, concrete block, stone, or stone veneer,
can introduce new textures and patterns into your landscape, while
living walls, like the framed trellis wall, can provide beautiful
backdrops for your favorite vines or lush border gardens.
Using simple building techniques, the projects in this section
offer a wide variety of choices for practical, visually appealing
fences and walls. Properly constructed, the fences or walls you
build should last decades with little maintenance.
 IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Fence & Wall Materials
• Wood Panel Fences
• Picket Fence
• Post & Board Fences
• Split Rail Fence
• Virginia Rail Fence
• Wood Composite Fence
• Vinyl Panel Fence
• Ornamental Metal Fence
• Chain Link Fence & Gate
• Bamboo Fence
• Invisible Dog Fence
• Patio Wall
• Outdoor Kitchen Walls & Countertop
• Dry Stone Wall
• Interlocking Block Retaining Wall
• Timber Retaining Wall
FENCE & WALL MATERIALS

A s with most building projects, choosing the right materials for

your fence or wall is really a question of priorities. In other
words, what do you value most in the finished product:
Appearance? Durability? Ease of maintenance? Security? Cost?
Ultimately, your decision will involve a combination of priorities
(and most likely some compromises). And often the function and
style of a fence or wall narrows the choices for you. For example, if
you’re building a fence for privacy, you can automatically rule out
metal fencing. Here’s an overview of the most popular fence and
wall materials.
WOOD
Wood is still the most commonly used material for fences and is
really the only one that allows for custom designs and details.
Durability, cost, and appearance have everything to do with the
type and quality of wood you choose. For a painted fence and for
structural members (posts and stringers) that aren’t highly visible
on unpainted fences, the best and cheapest option is pressure-
treated (PT) lumber. Unfinished, it doesn’t look as good as other
wood types, but it’s strong and highly rot-resistant, and you can’t
see it once it’s painted. Choose PT lumber rated for “ground
contact” for all posts and any pieces that will be within 6 inches of
the ground. Kiln-dried lumber (often labeled KDAT, for “kiln-dried
after treatment”) is less likely to warp or split than surfaced-dry (S-
Dry) lumber.
Always use galvanized or stainless steel hardware and fasteners
when building fences.

If you want to stain and seal your fence or leave it unfinished to

let it weather naturally, your two standard options are cedar and
redwood. Both are naturally rot-resistant, depending on the grade
of the lumber. Heartwood (or “all-heart”) lumber, which comes
from the dense center of the tree, is the most resistant to rot and, in
the case of redwood, insects. Sapwood comes from the softer outer
portion of the tree and is no more resistant to decay than other
softwoods, like pine. Most cedar and redwood lumber you’ll find is
a mixture of heartwood and softwood, therefore offering varying
degrees of limited decay resistance. Discuss your project with
knowledgeable staff at a good lumberyard; they can suggest
appropriate grades for your project and budget (and the local
climate). Note: When structural strength is important, many fence
builders recommend using only PT lumber for all fence posts, due
to its superior strength and decay resistance over most cedar and
redwood lumber.
For a small, highly visible and decorative fence, you might
consider splurging on a sustainably harvested tropical hardwood,
such as ipé, ironwood, meranti, or cambera. Choose these products
carefully: the wood should be suitably rot-resistant for your
application and local climate, and it should come from a supplier
certified for sustainable forestry.

ORNAMENTAL METAL
Sold in preassembled panels and precut posts made of steel,
aluminum, or iron, ornamental metal fencing has a distinctive,
formal look reminiscent of traditional wrought iron fences. Most
products come prefinished with tough, weather-resistant coatings,
making metal fencing one of the lowest-maintenance types you can
buy. Steel and aluminum versions are lighter in weight and less
expensive than iron fencing and are readily available through home
centers and fencing suppliers. Iron fencing made for easy
installation is available through specialty manufacturers and
distributors.

CHAIN LINK
Chain link is the ultimate utility fence—durable, secure, and
virtually maintenance-free. Made of rust-resistant galvanized steel,
chain link fencing comes in ready-to-assemble parts and is easily
worked into custom lengths and configurations. Installing chain
link is a little more involved than with other types of pre-fab
fencing, but the technique is pretty straightforward once you get the
hang of it.

WOOD COMPOSITE
Because it’s made with wood fibers and plastic, wood composite
fencing may be considered an alternative to both wood and vinyl
fencing. And it’s an environmentally friendly choice to boot.
Composite fencing can be made almost entirely from recycled
plastic and recycled or reclaimed wood materials (not counting
metal brackets and rail stiffeners). Like vinyl, it won’t rot and
never needs painting. Like wood, it has a solid feel and a non-glare
finish. Composite fencing come in ready-to-assemble kits and
installs much like many vinyl fence products.

VINYL
Vinyl fencing is popular for its long life, minimal maintenance
requirements (essentially none), and the fact that it comes in many
styles based on traditional wood fence designs. As such, vinyl is
generally considered an alternative to painted wood fencing.
Installation of the various post-and-panel fence systems is
relatively simple, provided you follow the manufacturers’
instructions carefully.
BAMBOO
Bamboo occupies its own category because it’s not wood—it’s
grass—and because it has such a unique decorative quality that can
turn any fence into a conversation piece. Most bamboo fences are
made with preassembled panels (consisting of size-matched canes
tied together with wire) set into a wood framework. You can also
find materials for building an all-bamboo fence, or you can cover
an existing fence with preassembled panels. Bamboo can be tooled
and finished with ordinary tools and materials and is an
environmentally friendly material.

FENCE & GATE HARDWARE

All metal hardware and fasteners used for building fences must be
corrosion-resistant. This includes hinges, latches, and brackets, as
well as screws, nails, and other fasteners. For fastener materials,
choose hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel (not aluminum)
when working with pressure-treated wood; with cedar and redwood
lumber, galvanized, stainless steel, and aluminum fasteners offer
corrosion resistance, but only stainless steel is guaranteed not to
discolor the wood.

Stone, brick, and block are timeless, sturdy fence-building

materials that stand the test of time.

STONE
Natural stone is a timeless building material for walls, offering
unmatched beauty and durability. Cut stone (called ashlar) is the
best choice for most wall applications. Its relatively flat surfaces
make it easy to stack for a strong, uniform structure. Other types of
stone for building include fieldstone (naturally shaped, irregular
stones gathered from fields) and rubble (lower-quality irregular
stone pieces used primarily for infill in stone walls).

BRICK & CONCRETE BLOCK

Clay brick and concrete block are equally well suited to outdoor
wall projects. By itself, brick is clearly the more decorative choice,
while walls made of block are quicker to build (whether mortared
or mortarless) and make a great foundation for decorative finishes
like stucco or veneer stone.

LANDSCAPE BLOCK
Landscape blocks are manufactured concrete units that come in
several different forms. All types are uniformly shaped and sized,
making them exceptionally easy to work with. In addition to the
familiar blocks made specifically for retaining walls, you can now
buy building-type landscape blocks designed for do-it-yourself
walls, columns, steps, and planters.
WOOD PANEL FENCES

P refabricated fence panels take much of the work out of

putting up a fence, and (surprisingly) using them is often less
expensive than building a board and stringer fence from scratch.
They are best suited for relatively flat yards, but may be stepped
down on slopes that aren’t too steep.
Fence panels come in many styles, ranging from privacy to
picket. Most tend to be built lighter than fences you’d make from
scratch, with thinner wood for the stringers and siding. When
shopping for panels, compare quality and heft of lumber and
fasteners as well as cost.
Purchase panels, gate hardware, and gate (if you’re not building
one) before setting and trimming your posts. Determine also if
panels can be trimmed or reproduced from scratch for short
sections.
The most exacting task when building a panel fence involves
insetting the panels between the posts. This requires that preset
posts be precisely spaced and perfectly plumb. In our inset panel
sequence (pages 243 to 245), we set one post at a time as the fence
was built, so the attached panel position can determine the spacing,
not the preset posts.
An alternative installation to setting panels between posts is to
attach them to the post faces (pages 246 to 247). Face-mounted
panels are more forgiving of preset posts, since the attachment
point of stringers doesn’t need to be dead center on the posts.
Wood fence panels usually are constructed in either six- or
eight-foot lengths. Cedar and pressure-treated pine are the most
common wood types used in making fence panels, although you
may also find redwood in some areas. Generally, the cedar panels
cost one-and-a-half to two times as much for similar styles in PT
lumber.
When selecting wood fence panels, inspect every board in each
panel carefully (and be sure to check both sides of the panel).
These products are fairly susceptible to damage during shipping.

Building with wood fence panels is a great time-saver and allows

you to create a more elaborate fence than you may be able to build
from scratch.

Tools & Materials

Pressure-treated cedar or redwood 4 × 4 posts
Prefabricated fence panels
Corrosion-resistant fence brackets or panel hangers
Post caps
Corrosion-resistant deck screws (1", 3 1/2")
Prefabricated gate & hardware
Wood blocks
Colored plastic
Tape measure
Plumb bob
Masking tape
Stakes and mason's string
Gravel
Clamshell digger or power auger
Hand tamp
Level
2 × 4 lumber
Circular saw, hand saw, or reciprocating saw
Concrete
Drill
Line level
Clamps
Scrap lumber
Shovel
Hammer
Speed square
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Permanent marker
Hinges (3)
 PANEL BOARD PATTERN VARIATIONS

Louvered
Lattice Top
Staggered Board
Stockade
 INSTALLING FENCE PANELS

On a sloped lot, install the panels in a step pattern, trying to keep a

consistent vertical drop between panels. It is difficult to cut most
preassembled panels, so try to plan the layout so only full-width
panels are used.
Metal fence panel hangers make quick work of hanging panels and
offer a slight amount of wiggle room if the panel is up to 1/2" narrower
than the space between posts.
With some panel styles, the best tactic is to flatten the lower tab
after attaching it to the post and then bend it up or down against the
panel frame once the panel is in place.
Setting all of the posts in concrete at one time and then installing
the panels after the concrete sets has advantages as well as
disadvantages. On the plus side, this approach lets you pour all of
the concrete at the same time and provides good access so you can
make absolutely certain the posts are level and plumb. On the
downside, if the post spacing is off even a little bit, you’ll need to trim
the panel (which can be tricky) or attach a shim to the post or the
panel frame (also tricky). Most panel manufacturers recommend
installing the posts as you go.
 HOW TO BUILD A WOOD PANEL FENCE

Lay out the fenceline, and mark the posthole locations with colored
plastic (inset). Space the holes to fit the fence panels, adding the
actual post width (3 1/2" for 4 × 4 posts) plus 1/4" for brackets to the
panel length. Tip: For stepped fences, measure the spacing along a
level line, not along the slope.

Dig the first posthole for a corner or end post using a clamshell
digger or power auger. Add 6" of gravel to the hole, and tamp it flat.
Set, plumb, and brace the first post with cross bracing.
Dig the second posthole using a 2 × 4 spacer to set the distance
between posts (cut the spacer to the same length as the stringers on
the preassembled fence panels).
Fill the first posthole with concrete or with tamped soil and gravel.
Tamp the concrete with a 2 × 4 as you fill the hole. Let the concrete
set.
Install the stringer brackets onto the first post using corrosion-
resistant screws or nails. Shorter fences may have two brackets,
while taller fences typically have three. Note: The bottom of the
fence siding boards should be at least 2" above the ground when the
panel is installed.
Set the first panel into the brackets. Shim underneath the free end
of the panel with scrap lumber so that the stringers are level and the
panel is properly aligned with the fenceline. Fasten the panel to the
brackets with screws or nails.
Mark the second post for brackets. Set the post in its hole and
hold it against the fence panel. Mark the positions of the panel
stringers for installing the brackets. Remove the post and install the
stringer brackets, as before.
Reset the second post, slipping the ends of the panel stringers into
the brackets. Brace the post so it is plumb, making sure the panel
remains level and is aligned with the fenceline. Fasten the brackets
to the panel with screws or nails.
Anchor the second post in concrete. After the concrete sets,
continue building the fence, following steps 5 to 8. Option: You can
wait to fill the remaining postholes with concrete until all of the
panels are in place.
Attach the post caps after trimming the posts to their finished
height (use a level mason’s line to mark all of the posts at the same
height). Install the gate, if applicable; see below.

Installing a Prefab Gate

To install a prefabricated gate, attach three evenly spaced hinges to the gate frame
using corrosion-resistant screws (left). Follow the hardware manufacturer’s directions,
making sure the hinge pins are straight and parallel with the edge of the gate. Position
the gate between the gate posts so the hinge pins rest against one post. Shim the gate
to the desired height using wood blocks set on the ground (right). Make sure there is
an even gap (reveal) between the gate and the latch post, and then fasten the hinges
to the hinge post with screws (inset).
 HOW TO BUILD A FACE-MOUNTED PANEL
FENCE

Set the posts for your project (see page 243). Since spacing is
less critical for face-mounted panels than for inset panels, you can
install all of the posts before adding the panels, if desired. Lay out
the posts according to the panel size, leaving about 1/4" for wiggle
room. Note: Spaces before end, corner, and gate posts must be
smaller by half the post width, so that the end of the fence panel
covers the entire post face. Set the posts in concrete.
Trim the posts to height. For level or nearly level fences, mark the
desired post height on the end posts, allowing for a 2" min. space
between the bottom edge of the panels and the ground. Stretch a
mason’s string between the end/corner posts, and mark the infill
posts at the string level. Cut the posts with circular saw, reciprocating
saw, or handsaw.
Position the first panel. To mark the height for all of the panels, run
a mason’s string between the end/corner posts to represent the top
of the top panel stringers. Use a line level to make sure the line is
level. Also make sure the panel will be at least 2" above the ground
when installed. Set the first panel onto blocks so the top stringer is
touching the mason’s string.
Fasten the first panel. Holding the panel in position, drill pilot holes
and fasten each stringer to the post with 3 1/2" deck screws. Use two
screws at each stringer end. At end, corner, and gate posts, the
stringers should run all the way across the post faces.
Install the remaining panels. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to install the
rest of the panels. Tip: If any posts are off layout, resulting in a
stringer joint falling too close to the edge of a post, add a 24"-long
brace under the butted stringer ends; the brace should have the
same thickness as the stringer stock. Add post caps and other
details, as desired.
Variation: Face-mounted privacy fence panels may be fastened to
post faces through the panels’ vertical frame members. To use this
technique, make sure the panel edges are perfectly plumb before
fastening, and butt the panels tightly together (or as directed by the
manufacturer).
PICKET FENCE

T he quintessential symbol of American hominess, the classic

picket fence remains a perennial favorite for more than its
charm and good looks. It’s also a deceptively effective boundary,
creating a clear line of separation while appearing to be nothing
more than a familiar decoration. This unique characteristic of a
welcoming barrier makes the picket fence a good choice for
enclosing an area in front of the house. It’s also a popular option
for separating a vegetable or flower garden from the surrounding
landscape.
Building a custom picket fence from scratch is a great do-it-
yourself project. The small scale and simple structure of the basic
fence design make it easy to add your own creative details and
personal touches. In this project, you’ll see how to cut custom
pickets and build a fence using standard lumber (plus an easy
upgrade of adding decorative post caps). As an alternative, you can
build your fence using prefab fence panels for the picket infill (see
pages 246 to 247). You can also buy precut pickets at home centers,
lumberyards, and online retailers to save on the work of cutting
your own.
Traditionally, a picket fence is about three to four feet tall (if
taller than four feet, a picket fence starts to look like a barricade)
with 1 × 3 or 1 × 4 pickets. Fence posts can be spaced anywhere up
to eight feet apart if you’re using standard lightweight pickets.
Depending on your preference, the posts can be visible design
elements or they can hide behind a continuous line of pickets.
Spacing between the pickets is a question of function and taste: go
with whatever spacing looks best and fulfills your functional needs.
A low picket fence adds curb appeal and a cozy sense of enclosure
to a front yard or entry area without blocking views to or from the
house.

Tools & Materials

Tools and materials for setting posts
Mason’s string
Line level
Circular saw
Jigsaw
Drill
Power miter saw
Sander
2-ft. level
Lumber (4 × 4, 2 × 4, 1 × 4)
Deck screws (3 1/2, 2")
Finishing materials
Post caps (optional)
Hammer
Galvanized or stainless steel finish nails
Spacer
Speed square
Eye and ear protection
Clamps
Paint brush
Tape measure
16d galvanized common nails
Wood sealant or primer
Work gloves
Pencil
Finish materials
 PICKET FENCE STYLES

Highlighting the posts (left) gives the fence a sectional look, and
the rhythm of the pickets is punctuated by the slower cadence of the
posts. To create this effect, mount the stringers on edge, so the
pickets are flush with—or recessed from—the front faces of the
posts. Hiding the posts (right) creates an unbroken line of pickets
and a somewhat less structural look overall. This effect calls for
stringers installed flush with—or over the front of—the post faces.
 HOW TO BUILD A PICKET FENCE

Install and trim the posts according to your plan (see pages 243
and 246). In this project, the pickets stand at 36" above grade, and
the posts are 38" (without the post caps). Set the posts in concrete,
and space them as desired—but no more than 96" on center.

Mark the stringer positions onto the posts. Measure down from
each post top and make marks at 8 and 28 1/2" (or as desired for
your design). These marks represent the top edges of the two
stringer boards for each fence section.
Install the stringers. Measure between each pair of posts, and cut
the 2 × 4 stringers to fit. Drill angled pilot holes, and fasten the
stringers to the posts with 3 1/2" deck screws or 16d galvanized
common nails; drive one fastener in the bottom and top edges of
each stringer end.
Cut the pickets to length using a power miter saw. To save time,
set up a stop block with the distance from the block to blade equal to
the picket length. Tip: If you’re painting the fence, you can save
money by cutting the pickets from 12-ft.-long boards of pressure-
treated lumber. In this project, the pickets are 32" long; each board
yields 4 pickets.
Shape the picket ends as desired. For straight-cut designs, use a
miter saw with a stop block on the right side of the blade (the first
pass cuts through the picket and the block). If the shape is
symmetrical, such as this 90° point, cut off one corner, and then flip
the board over and make the second cut—no measuring or adjusting
is needed.

Calculating Picket Spacing

Determine the picket quantity and spacing. Cut a few pickets (steps 5 to
7) and experiment with different spacing to find the desired
(approximate) gap between pickets. Calculate the precise gap
dimension and number of pickets needed for each section using the
formula shown in the example here.

Total space between posts: 92.5"

Unit size (picket width + approx. gap size): 3.5" + 1.75" = 5.25"
Number of pickets (post space ÷ unit size): 92.5" ÷ 5.25" = 17. 62
(round down for slightly larger gaps; round up for slightly smaller
gaps)
Total picket area (# of pickets × picket width): 17 × 3.5" = 59.5"
Remaining space for gaps (post space - total picket area): 92.5" - 59.5"
= 33"
Individual gap size (total gap space ÷ (# of pickets + 1)): 33" ÷ 18 =
1.83"
Variation: To cut pickets with decorative custom shapes, create a
cardboard or hardboard template with the desired shape. Trace the
shape onto each picket and make the cuts. Use a jigsaw for curved
cuts. Gang several cut pieces together for final shaping with a
sander.
Prime or seal all surfaces of the posts, stringers, and pickets; and
then add at least one coat of finish (paint, stain, or sealer), as
desired. This will help protect even the unexposed surfaces from rot.
Set up a string line to guide the picket installation. Clamp a
mason’s string to two posts at the desired height for the tops of the
pickets. Note: To help prevent rot and to facilitate grass trimming,
plan to install the pickets at least 2" above the ground.
Install the pickets. Using a cleat spacer cut to the width of the
picket gap, set each picket in place and drill even pairs of pilot holes
into each stringer. Fasten the pickets with 2" deck screws. Check the
first picket (and every few thereafter) for plumb with a level before
piloting.
Add the post caps. Wood post caps (with or without metal cladding)
offer an easy way to dress up plain posts while protecting the end
grain from water. Install caps with galvanized or stainless steel finish
nails, or as directed by the manufacturer. Apply the final finish coat or
touch-ups to the entire fence.
POST & BOARD FENCES

P ost and board fences include an endless variety of simple

designs in which widely spaced square or round posts support
several horizontal boards. This type of fence has been around since
the early 1700s, when it began to be praised for its efficient use of
lumber and land and its refined appearance. The post and board is
still a great design today. Even in a contemporary suburban setting,
a classic, white three- or four-board fence evokes the stately
elegance of a horse farm or the welcoming, down-home feel of a
farmhouse fence bordering a country lane.
Another desirable quality of post and board fencing is its ease in
conforming to slopes and rolling ground. In fact, it often looks best
when the fence rises and dips with ground contours. Of course, you
can also build the fence so it’s level across the top by trimming the
posts along a level line. Traditional agricultural versions of post
and board fences typically include three to five boards spaced
evenly apart or as needed to contain livestock. If you like the look
of widely spaced boards but need a more complete barrier for pets,
cover the back side of the fence with galvanized wire fencing,
which is relatively unnoticeable behind the bold lines of the fence
boards. You can also use the basic post and board structure to
create any number of custom designs. The fence styles shown in
the following pages are just a sampling of what you can build using
the basic construction technique for post and board fences.
A low post and board fence, like traditional picket fencing, is both
decorative and functional, creating a modest enclosure without
blocking views. The same basic fence made taller and with tighter
board spacing becomes an attractive privacy screen or security
fence.

Tools & Materials

Tools and materials for setting posts
Mason’s string
Line level
Circular saw
Speed square
Clamps
Circular saw
Drill
4 × 4 posts
Finishing materials
Bar clamps
Chisel
Post levels
Primer and paint or stain
3" stainless steel screws
Combination square
Eye and ear protection
Lumber (1 × 6, 1 × 4, 2 × 6, 1 × 3)
Deck screws (2", 2 1/2", 3 1/2")
8d galvanized nails
Scrap 2 × 4
Work gloves
Pencil
 HOW TO BUILD A CLASSIC POST & BOARD
FENCE

Set the posts in concrete, following the desired spacing. Laying out
the posts at 96" on center allows for efficient use of lumber. For
smaller boards, such as 1 × 4s and smaller, set posts closer together
for better rigidity.
Trim and shape the posts with a circular saw. For a contoured
fence, measure up from the ground and mark the post height
according to your plan (post height shown here is 36"). For a level
fence, mark the post heights with a level string. If desired, cut a 45°
chamfer on the post tops using a speed square as an edge guide to
ensure straight cuts. Prime and paint (or stain and seal) the posts.
Mark the board locations by measuring down from the top of each
post and making a mark representing the top edge of each board.
The traditional three-board design employs even spacing between
boards. Use a speed square to draw a line across the front faces of
the posts at each height mark. Mark the post centers on alternate
posts using a combination square or speed square and pencil. For
strength, it’s best to stagger the boards so that butted end joints
occur at every other post (this requires 16-ft. boards for posts set 8
ft. apart). The centerlines represent the location of each butted joint.
Install 1 × 6 boards. Measure and mark each board for length, and
then cut it to size. Clamp the board to the posts, following the height
and center marks. Drill pilot holes and fasten each board end with
three 2 1/2" deck screws or 8d galvanized box nails. Use three
fasteners where long boards pass over posts as well.
Mark for mitered butt joints at changes in elevation. To mark the
miters on contoured fences, draw long centerlines onto the posts.
Position an uncut board over the posts at the proper height, and then
mark where the top and bottom edges meet the centerline. Connect
the marks to create the cutting line, and make the cut. Note: The
mating board must have the same angle for a symmetrical joint.
Variation: This charming fence style with crossed middle boards
calls for a simple alteration of the classic three-board fence. To build
this version, complete the installation of the posts and top and
bottom boards, following the same techniques used for the classic
fence. Tip: If desired, space the posts closer together for steeper
cross angles. Then, mark long centerlines on the posts, and use
them to mark the angled end cuts for the middle boards. When
installed, the middle boards lap over each other, creating a slight
bow in the center that adds interest to the overall look.
 HOW TO BUILD A NOTCHED POST &
BOARD FENCE

The notched-post fence presents a slight variation on the standard

face-mounted fence design. Here, each run of boards is let into a
notch in the posts so the boards install flush with the post faces. This
design offers a cleaner look and adds strength overall to the fence.
In this example, the boards are 1 × 4s so the posts are set 6 ft. on
center; 1 × 6 or 2 × 6 boards would allow for wider spacing (8 ft.).
Note: Because the notches must be precisely aligned between
posts, the posts are set and braced before the concrete is added.
Alternatively, you can complete the post installation and then mark
the notches with a string and cut each one with the posts in place.
Cut and mark the posts. Cut the 4 × 4 posts to length at 66". Clamp
the posts together with their ends aligned, and mark the notches at
6, 9 1/2, 15 1/2, 19, 25, and 28 1/2" down from the top ends.
Create the notches. Make a series of parallel cuts between the
notch marks using a circular saw with the blade depth set at 3/4".
Clean out the waste and smooth the bases of the notches with a
chisel.
Install the posts and boards. Set the posts in their holes and brace
them in place using a level string to align the notches. Secure the
posts with concrete. Prefinish all fence parts. Install the 1 × 4 boards
with 2" deck screws (driven through pilot holes) so their ends meet at
the middle of each post.
 HOW TO BUILD A CAPPED POST & BOARD
FENCE

A cap rail adds a finished look to a low post and board fence. This
fence design includes a 2 × 6 cap rail and an infill made of
alternating 1 × 4 and 1 × 6 boards for a decorative pattern and a
somewhat more enclosed feel than you get with a basic three-board
fence. The cap pieces are mitered over the corner posts. Where cap
boards are joined together over long runs of fence, they should meet
at a scarf joint—made with opposing 30 or 45° bevels cut into the
end of each board. All scarf and miter joints should occur over the
center of a post.

Install and mark the posts. Set the 4 × 4 posts in concrete with 72"
on-center spacing (see page 243). Trim the post tops so they are
level with one another and approximately 36" above grade. Prefinish
all fence parts. Use a square and pencil to mark a vertical centerline
on each post where the board ends will butt together.
Install the boards. For each infill bay, cut two 1 × 4s and three 1 ×
6s to length. Working from the top of the posts down, fasten the
boards with 2 1/2" deck screws driven through pilot holes. Use a 1
1/2"-thick spacer (such as a 2 × 4 laid flat) to ensure even spacing
between boards.
Add the cap rail. Cut the cap boards so they will install flush with
the inside faces and corners of the posts; this creates a 1 1/4"
overhang beyond the boards on the front side of the fence. Fasten
the cap pieces to the posts with 3 1/2" deck screws driven through
pilot holes.
 HOW TO BUILD A MODERN POST & BOARD
PRIVACY FENCE

This beautiful, modern-style post and board fence is made with

pressure-treated 4 × 4 posts and clear cedar 1 × 3, 1 × 4, and 1 × 6
boards. To ensure quality and color consistency, it’s a good idea to
hand-pick the lumber, and choose S4S (surfaced on four sides) for a
smooth, sleek look. Alternative materials include clear redwood, ipé,
and other rot-resistant species. A high-quality, UV-resistant finish is
critical to preserve the wood’s natural coloring for as long as
possible.

Install the posts, spacing them 60" on-center (see page 243) or as
desired. Mark the tops of the posts with a level line, and trim them at
72" above grade. Note: This fence design is best suited to level
ground. Cut the fence boards to length. If desired, you can rip down
wider stock for custom board widths (but you’ll have to sand off any
saw marks for a finished look).
Fasten the boards to the post faces using 2 1/2" deck screws or 8d
galvanized box nails driven through pilot holes. Work from the top
down, and use 7/8"-thick wood spacers to ensure accurate spacing.
Add the battens to cover the board ends and hide the posts. Use
1 × 4 boards for the infill posts and 1 × 6s for the corner posts. Rip
3/4" from the edge of one corner batten so the assembly is the same
width on both sides. Fasten the battens to the posts with 3" stainless
steel screws (other screw materials can discolor the wood).
SPLIT RAIL FENCE

T he split rail, or post and rail, fence is essentially a rustic

version of the post and board fence style (pages 252 to 257)
and is similarly a good choice for a decorative accent, for
delineating areas, or for marking boundaries without creating a
solid visual barrier. Typically made from split cedar logs, the fence
materials have naturally random shaping and dimensions, with
imperfect details and character marks that give the wood an
appealing hand-hewn look. Natural weathering of the untreated
wood only enhances the fence’s rustic beauty.
The construction of a split rail fence couldn’t be simpler. The
posts have holes or notches (called mortises) cut into one or two
facets. The fence rails have trimmed ends (called tenons) that fit
into the mortises. No fasteners are needed. Posts come in three
types to accommodate any basic configuration: common posts have
through mortises, end posts have half-depth mortises on one facet,
and corner posts have half-depth mortises on two adjacent facets.
The two standard fence styles are two-rail, which stand about three
feet tall, and three-rail, which stand about four feet tall. Rails are
commonly available in 8- and 10-feet lengths.
In keeping with the rustic simplicity of the fence design, split
rail fences are typically installed by setting the posts with tamped
soil and gravel instead of concrete footings (frost heave is generally
not a concern with this fence, since the joints allow for plenty of
movement). This comes with a few advantages: the postholes are
relatively small, you save the expense of concrete, and it’s much
easier to replace a post if necessary. Plan to bury about a third of
the total post length (or 24 inches minimum). This means a three-
foot-tall fence should have 60-inch-long posts. If you can’t find
long posts at your local home center, try a lumberyard or fencing
supplier.

A split rail fence looks great as a garden backdrop or a friendly

boundary line. The rough-hewn texture and traditional wood joints
are reminiscent of homesteaders’ fences built from lumber cut and
dressed right on the property.

Tools & Materials

Mason’s string
Shovel
Clamshell digger or power auger
Digging bar (with tamping head) or 2 × 4
Level
Reciprocating saw or handsaw
Tape measure
Stakes
Soil
Nails
Precut split rail fence posts and rails
Compactable gravel (bank gravel or pea gravel)
Plastic tags
Lumber and screws for cross bracing
Wheelbarrow
Line level
Shovel
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
 HOW TO BUILD A SPLIT RAIL FENCE

Determine the post spacing by dry-assembling a fence section and

measuring the distance between the post centers. Be sure the posts
are square to the rails before measuring.
Set up a string line using mason’s string and stakes to establish the
fence’s path, including any corners and return sections. Mark each
post location along the path using a nail and plastic tag.
Dig the postholes so they are twice as wide as the posts and at a
depth equal to 1/3 the total post length plus 6". Because split posts
vary in size, you might want to lay out the posts beforehand and dig
each hole according to the post size.
Add 6" of drainage gravel to each posthole. Tamp the gravel
thoroughly with a digging bar or a 2 × 4 so the layer is flat and level.
Set and measure the first post. Drop the post in its hole, and then
hold it plumb while you measure from the ground to the desired
height. If necessary, add or remove gravel and re-tamp to adjust the
post height.
Brace the post with cross bracing so it is plumb. Add 2" of gravel
around the bottom of the post. Tamp the gravel with a digging bar or
2 × 4, being careful not to disturb the post.
Fill and tamp around the post, one layer at a time. Alternate
between 4" of soil and 2" of gravel (inset), tamping each layer all the
way around the post before adding the next layer. Check the post for
plumb as you work. Overfill the top of the hole with soil and tamp it
into a hard mound to help shed water.
Assemble the first section of fence by setting the next post in its
hole and checking its height. Fit the rails into the post mortises, and
then brace the second post in place. Note: Set all the posts at the
same height above grade for a contoured fence. For a level fence,
see Variation, right.
Variation: For a fence that remains level across the top, set up a
level mason’s line strung between two installed fence posts or
between temporary supports. Set all of the posts so their tops are
just touching the line.
Secure the second post by filling and tamping with alternate layers
of gravel and soil, as with the first post. Repeat steps 5 through 9 to
complete the fence. Tip: Set up a mason’s string to help keep the
posts in a straight line as you set them.

Custom Details
Custom-cut your rails to build shorter fence sections. Cut the rails to length using a
reciprocating saw and long wood blade or a handsaw (be sure to factor in the tenon
when determining the overall length). To cut the tenon, make a cardboard template
that matches the post mortises. Use the template to mark the tenon shape onto the rail
end, and then cut the tenon to fit.
Gates for split rail fences are available from fencing suppliers in standard and
custom-order sizes. Standard sizes include 4 ft. for a walk-through entrance gate and
8 or 10 ft. for a drive-through gate. For large gates, set the side posts in concrete
footings extending below the frost line.
VIRGINIA RAIL FENCE

T he Virginia rail fence—also called a worm, snake, and zigzag

fence—was actually considered the national fence by the US
Department of Agriculture prior to the advent of wire fences in the
late 1800s. All states with farmland cleared from forests had them
in abundance. The simplest fences were built with an extreme zig-
zag, and didn’t require posts. To save on lumber and land, farmers
began straightening the fences and burying pairs of posts at the rail
junctures.
Feel free to accommodate the overlapping rail fence in this
project to suit your tastes and needs. Increase the zig-zag to climb
rolling ground, decrease it to stretch the fence out. Lapped rail
fences should be made from rot-resistant wood, like cedar, locust,
or cyprus.
For the most authentic-looking fence, try to find split, rather
than sawn, logs. For longevity, raise the bottom rail off the ground
with stones. Posts may eventually rot below ground, but the
inherently stable zig-zag form should keep the fence standing until
you can replace them.
The Virginia rail fence exhibits a very familiar style to anyone who
has spent much time in countryside that was cleared and farmed in
the 18th and 19th centuries. Since nails were scarce, these zig-
zagging post and rail fences were popular because they are held
together with only wire or rope.

Tools & Materials

Mason’s string
Shovel
Clamshell digger
Digging bar
Pliers or wire cutters
Large screwdriver
Sledgehammer
Reciprocating saw or handsaw
Stakes
Split cedar fence posts and rails
Marking paint
Stones
Clothesline or rope
9-gauge galvanized wire
Wood blocks
Tape measure
Level
Scrap wood
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
 HOW TO BUILD A VIRGINIA RAIL FENCE

Plan the layout of your fence by setting down three or four

sections formed with single rails without posts. Set the rails over a
mason’s string, rope, or garden hose that represents the fenceline
running down the middle of the fence. Experiment with different
angles of zigzag: more acute angles create a more stable fence over
rolling contours, but this requires more lumber and takes up more
space. Also determine how much overlap you want at the rail ends.
When you are satisfied with your layout, use a board spanning
across the open side of a fence section to measure the overall width,
or path, of the fence.
Mark the fenceline with stakes and mason’s string. This will
become the center of the fence’s path. Then, using the
measurements taken from your layout, mark the ground on either
side of the fenceline to represent the outer edges of the fence path.
Use marking paint or mason’s strings to mark the edges.
Locate the posthole centers to coincide with the crossing points of
the rails. To keep the posts in line, plot the postholes along additional
mason’s strings representing the distance from the fenceline to the
rail crossing points. Make sure that the posts alternate from side to
side with even spacing throughout the fence run.
Dig the first pair of postholes using a clamshell digger. Make the
holes about three times the width of one post and 18 to 24" deep.
Because of the fence’s inherent flexibility, the posts don’t need to
extend below the frost line.
Place two posts in each hole, leaving enough room for a rail to
pass in between them. Hold the posts plumb, and backfill the holes
with soil, compacting it moderately to allow for some movement of
the posts, if necessary.
Thread a rail through the post pairs, propping it up near the ends
with rocks or landscape blocks. Cinch the top ends of the posts
together with clothesline or rope to keep them parallel. The rail
should extend past the posts an equal distance at both ends.
Continue building the fence in the same fashion. Remember to
alternate the rail placement to keep the rails roughly level. You can
use chunks of scrap wood from the rail or post material as spacers to
help level uneven rails, if desired.
Bind the post pairs with wire once the fence sections are
complete. Wrap 9-gauge galvanized wire a couple of times around
the post, directly above the top-most rail. Twist the wire ends
together a couple of times, leaving longish tails after the twist.
Tighten the wire with a screwdriver. Twist the wire tails around the
shaft of a large screwdriver a few times, and then rotate the
screwdriver in a circle (as if you’re applying a tourniquet) until the
wire is tight and begins to bite into the posts. Trim the wire tails and
twist them under or drive them into the wood for safety.
Drive the posts in further, if necessary, to stiffen up the post and
rail junctures. Protect the tops of the post with a wood block. You can
also tamp around the posts with a digging bar to stabilize them. If
necessary, trim the post tops of each pair so they are even.
WOOD COMPOSITE FENCE

W ood composite fencing requires little maintenance and can

last a lifetime. For many homeowners, this low-
maintenance longevity justifies the high initial cost of the fencing.
Manufacturers of composite products claim that they are less
expensive than wood in the long run, when you factor in the repair,
refinishing, and eventual replacement of wood fences over the
years. Quality composite fencing is guaranteed for up to 25 years
not to split, crack, splinter, or rot. Perhaps best of all, it never needs
to be painted or sealed for protection from the elements.
Composite fences are made from a blend of wood fibers and
plastic resins and can contain a high percentage of recycled
materials (the country’s largest manufacturer of wood composite
products uses seven out of every 10 grocery bags recycled
nationally). Most of the wood used comes from reclaimed sawdust
from woodworking industries and discarded shipping pallets. The
reuse of waste materials, combined with the fact that the fencing
never needs to be finished and may never need to be replaced,
makes wood composite one of the most environmentally friendly
fence materials available.
Like vinyl fencing, composite systems are assembled from
precisely manufactured components and panels. This makes it
difficult to modify the length of fence sections, should your post
spacing be off. For this reason, you might prefer to set the posts as
you go (instead of all at once), using a fence stringer to determine
the exact post placement. If your site is sloped, check with the
fencing manufacturer for recommendations on stepping or
contouring the fence to follow the slope.
Composite fencing is manufactured with a blend of wood fibers and
plastic resins. It is denser than vinyl fencing and available in a wide
range of colors and textures; some even replicate the look of real
wood. The privacy fence above is from the Seclusions line by Trex.

Tools & Materials

Supplies for laying out and setting posts
Drill
Circular saw and carbide-tipped wood blade
Hacksaw
Level
Composite fence materials and hardware
Galvanized finish nails or adhesive
Eye and ear protection
Hammer
Work gloves
The composite fence system shown in this project is supported by
hollow composite posts set in concrete. Bottom stringers include
aluminum channels (for strength) clad with composite sleeves. The
siding infill is made up of interlocking pieces (or pickets) that fit into
the bottom stringer channels and are covered with a top rail. The
bottom stringer and top rail are anchored to the posts with brackets.
 HOW TO CONSTRUCT A WOOD
COMPOSITE FENCE

Dig the postholes according to your fence layout. Be sure to

follow the manufacturer’s directions for post spacing. Dig the holes
12" in diameter and 30" deep (or as directed). Add 6" of gravel to
each hole and tamp it flat.

Set the posts in concrete using a layout string to ensure precise

alignment of the post faces (see page 243). Brace each post with
cross bracing so it is perfectly plumb. Fill around the post with
concrete, up to 2" below ground level. Tamp the concrete with a 2 ×
4 to eliminate air pockets. Let the concrete cure for 24 to 48 hours.
Install the post brackets with the provided screws, using the
manufacturer’s template (inset) to center the brackets on the post
faces. Install the bottom bracket onto each post first, measure up
from the bracket and mark the position of the top bracket, and then
install the top bracket.
Assemble each bottom stringer by sliding the composite cladding
pieces over the sides of the aluminum stringer channel. For short
fence sections, see step 5.
Cut a stringer as needed for short sections of fence. Cut the
aluminum channel with a hacksaw. Trim the composite cladding
pieces to match the channel with a circular saw and carbide-tipped
wood blade.
Set the stringer onto the bottom post brackets. Check the stringer
with a level. If necessary, remove the stringer and adjust the bracket
heights (you may have to adjust top brackets as well to maintain the
proper spacing).
Fasten the stringer ends to the post brackets using the provided
screws.
Trim the upper outside corner of the first picket so it will clear the
top post bracket using a circular saw and carbide-tipped wood blade.
Install the first picket by slipping its bottom end into the stringer
channel. Align the picket to the top post bracket, and fasten the
picket to the post with three evenly spaced screws.
Assemble the fence panel by fitting the pickets together along their
interlocking side edges and sliding their bottom ends into the stringer
channel.
Fit the last picket into place after trimming its top corner to clear
the post bracket, as you did with the first panel. Fasten the picket to
the post with three screws, as in step 9.
Set the top rail over the ends of the pickets until the rail meets the
top post brackets.
Secure the top rail to each top post bracket, using the provided
screws, driving the screws through the top of the rail and into the
bracket.
Add the post caps, securing them to the posts with galvanized
finish nails or an approved adhesive. Tip: Some fence manufacturers
offer more than one cap style (inset).
VINYL PANEL FENCE

T he best features of vinyl fencing are its resilience and

durability. Vinyl fencing is made with a form of tough,
weather-resistant, UV-protected PVC (polyvinyl chloride), a plastic
compound that’s found in numerous household products, from
plumbing pipe to shower curtains. A vinyl fence never needs to be
painted and should be guaranteed for decades not to rot, warp, or
discolor. So if you like the styling of traditional wood fences, but
minimal maintenance is a primary consideration, vinyl might just
be your best option. Another good option is wood composite
fencing (see pages 266 to 269), which comes in fewer styles than
vinyl but is environmentally friendly and can replicate the look of
wood fencing.
Installing most vinyl fencing is similar to building a wood panel
fence. With both materials, it’s safest to set the posts as you go,
using the infill panels to help you position the posts. Accurate post
placement is critical with vinyl, because many types of panels
cannot be trimmed if the posts are too close together. Squeezing the
panel in can lead to buckling when the vinyl expands on hot days,
while setting the posts too far apart results in unsightly gaps.
Given the limited workability of most vinyl panels, this fencing
tends to work best on level or gently sloping ground. Keep in mind
that installation of vinyl fences varies widely by manufacturer and
fence style.
Vinyl fencing is now available in a wide range of traditional designs,
including picket, post and board, open rail, and solid panel. Color
options are generally limited to various shades of white, tan, and
gray.

Tools & Materials

Mason’s string
Shovel
Clamshell digger or power auger
Circular saw
Drill
Tape measure
Hand maul
Line level
Post level
Clamps or duct tape
Concrete tools
Stakes
2 × 4 lumber
Vinyl fence materials (with hardware, fasteners, and decorative
accessories)
Pea gravel
Concrete
Pressure-treated 4 × 4 (for gate, if applicable)
PVC cement or screws (optional)
Work gloves
Post caps
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO INSTALL A VINYL PANEL FENCE

Lay out the first run of fence with stakes and mason’s string.
Position the string so it represents the outside or inside faces of the
posts (you’ll use layout strings to align the posts throughout the
installation). Mark the center of the first post hole by measuring in
from the string half the post width.
Dig the first posthole, following the manufacturer’s requirements
for diameter and depth (improper hole dimensions can void the
warranty). Add 4 to 6" (or as directed) of pea gravel to the bottom of
the hole and tamp it down so it is flat and level using a 2 × 4 or 4 × 4.
Attach the fence panel brackets to the first post using the
provided screws. Dry-fit a fence panel into the brackets, then
measure from the top of the post to the bottom edge of the panel.
Add 2" (or as directed) to represent the distance between the fence
and the ground; the total dimension is the posts’ height above the
ground.
Set up a post-top string to guide the post installation. Using the
post height dimension, tie a mason’s string between temporary 2 × 4
supports so the string is centered over the post locations. Use a line
level to make sure the string is level. Measure from the string to the
ground in several places to make sure the height is suitable along
the entire fence run.
Set the first post. Drop the post in its hole and align it with the
fenceline string and height string. Install cross bracing to hold the
post perfectly plumb. Tip: Secure bracing boards to the post with
spring-type clamps or duct tape. Fill the posthole with concrete and
let it set completely.
Determine the second post’s location by fitting a fence panel into
the brackets on the first post. Mark the ground at the free edge of the
panel. Measure out from the mark half the post width to find the
center of the post hole (accounting for any additional room needed
for the panel brackets.)
Complete the fence section. Dig the hole for the second post, add
gravel, and tamp as before. Attach the panel brackets to the second
post, set the post in place and check its height against the string line.
Assemble the fence section with the provided screws (inset).
Confirm that the fence panel is level. Brace the second post in place
(as shown) and anchor it with concrete. Repeat the same layout and
construction steps to build the remaining fence sections.

Cutting Panels
Cut panels for short runs on solid-panel fencing (if straight along the top) per
manufacturer's recommendations.
Add the post caps. Depending on the product, caps may be
installed with PVC cement or screws, or they may be fitted without
fasteners. Add any additional decorative accessories, such as screw
caps, to complete the installation.
 INSTALLING A VINYL FENCE GATE

Hang the gate using the provided hardware. Fasten the hinges to
the gate panel with screws. Position the gate in line with the infill
fence panels, and screw the hinges to the hinge post. Install the
latch hardware onto the gate and latch post. Close the gate, position
the gate stops against the gate rails, and fasten the stops to the latch
post with screws.
 Post Infills
Reinforce the hinge post with a pressure-treated 4 × 4 inserted inside
the post. Set the post in concrete following the same steps used for
fence sections. Check carefully to make sure the post is plumb, as this
will ensure the gate swings properly. Install the latch post according to
the manufacturer’s specified dimension for the gate opening.
ORNAMENTAL METAL FENCE

O rnamental metal fencing is so called to distinguish it from

the other common metal fence material, chain link, which
makes a useful fence, but is far from ornamental. Ornamental metal
fences arguably offer the best combination of strength, durability,
and visibility of any standard fence type. In general, most
ornamental metal fences are modern iterations of traditional iron,
or “wrought iron,” fencing and offer a similarly elegant, formal
look (if perhaps not the same heft and handcrafted character).
Today, most ornamental metal fencing is made with galvanized
steel or aluminum. Both are finished with durable powder coatings
for weather resistance, and most fence systems are based on
modular components designed for easy DIY installation.
Comparing the two materials, appearances are virtually identical,
while aluminum is lighter in weight. It also tends to carry a longer
warranty than steel products, probably because aluminum is a
naturally rust-proof material. The other type of ornamental fence is
iron, which is available in a variety of forms, including bolt-
together modular systems.
Thanks to its exceptional security and visibility, ornamental
metal fencing is a very popular choice for upscale yards. That’s
why most manufacturers offer gates (with welded construction for
strength) and code-compliant locking hardware as standard options.
Some fence lines include special infill panels and gates with closer
picket spacing than standard panels. If you’re installing your fence
as a pool surround, check the local codes for requirements.
Ornamental steel, aluminum, and iron fences come in
prefabricated panels up to 6 ft. in height and 8 ft. in length, with
matching posts and optional decorative details. The most common
color option is black (the better to mimic the look of wrought iron),
but some products come in white, bronze, and other colors.

Tools & Materials

Mason’s string
Tape measure
Shovel
Clamshell digger or power auger
Clamps or duct tape
Drill
Concrete tools
Post level
Stakes
2 × 4 or 4 × 4 lumber
Modular fence materials
Concrete
Lumber and screws for cross bracing
Wheelbarrow
Masking tape
Marking paint
Level
Hacksaw
Drainage gravel
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
1 × 3 or 1 × 4 lumber
Permanent marker
 HOW TO INSTALL AN ORNAMENTAL METAL
FENCE

Lay out the fenceline with stakes and mason's string. Start at the
corners, driving stakes a few feet beyond the actual corner so that
the strings intersect at 90° (as applicable). Mark the approximate
post locations onto the strings using tape or a marker.

Mark the first post location with ground-marking spray paint.

Assemble the panel onto the first post and align it in the corner with
the mason's strings.
Dig the first posthole, following the manufacturer's specifications
for depth and diameter. Shovel drainage gravel into the hole, and
tamp it with a 2 × 4 or 4 × 4. Set the post in the hole and measure its
height above the ground. If necessary, add or remove gravel until the
post top is at the recommended height.
Plumb and anchor the first post. Position the post perfectly plumb
using a post level. Brace the post with cross bracing. Use clamps to
secure the bracing to the post. Fill the hole with concrete and let it
set.
Drill pilot holes for the brackets into the second post and first panel.
Align the fence assembly with the first post and mark for the second
post hole. Prepare the post hole as you did in step 3.
Fill the second posthole with concrete and let it set. Here, we
have a temporary brace to hold the post plumb and at the desired
height. The first panel, complete with posts on either sides, is now
set. Remaining posts along this fenceline can be set by positioning
posts with spacers to save time (see tip on this page).
Align the second panel on the other side of the corner post. Follow
instructions in steps 2 through 5 to set the post and install the panel.
Repeat the same process to install the remaining fence sections.
You can save time by positioning the posts with spacers (see tip on
this page).
Variation: For brick pillar corners, columns, or the side of a house,
install manufacturer-provided wall brackets. If wall brackets do not
come with the standard installation package of your metal fence,
contact the manufacturer.

Spacing Posts
Spacers help you locate the posts without having to measure or install
each panel for every post. The panels are then added after the post
concrete has set. Create each spacer with two 1 × 3 or 1 × 4 boards. Cut
board(s) to fit flush from outside edge to outside edge of the first and
second post (once they are set in concrete). Clamp the board in between
an anchored post and the next post to be installed. It is best to position
spacer boards near the top and bottom of the posts. With the boards in
place, the linear spacing should be accurate, but always check the new
post with a level to make sure it is plumb before setting it in concrete.
Use a level mason’s string to keep the post brackets at the same
elevation.
 HOW TO CUT METAL

Measure and mark panels for cuts. Hold the panel up to the final
post in the run and mark the cutting line. Often, designs will not
accommodate full panels around the entire fence perimeter.
Cut panels to the appropriate length using a hacksaw, as needed.

Old (and Old-fashioned) Iron Fencing

Traditional iron fencing—commonly called "wrought iron"—has been
adorning and securing homes and other buildings for many centuries
and is still the gold standard of ornamental metal fencing. The oldest
forms of wrought iron fences were made with individually hand-forged
pieces, while cast-iron fences were assembled from interchangeable
pieces of molded iron. Wrought iron, the material, is a pure form of iron
that contains very little carbon. Most modern iron fences are made of a
form of steel, not wrought iron.
While new iron fencing can still be made by the hand of a blacksmith,
it’s also commonly available in preassembled panels and modular posts,
much like the steel and aluminum fencing sold at home centers. Some
iron fencing must be welded together on-site (by professional
installers), while some is assembled with bolts, making it suitable for
DIY installation. Many styles of prefab iron fencing can be surprisingly
affordable.

If you have your heart set on the timeless look and feel of iron, search
online for local fabricators and dealers of real iron fencing. You can
also hunt through local architectural salvage shops, where you can find
antique iron fence panels, posts, finials, and other adornments. Their
condition may not be perfect, but the patina of weathering and marks of
use only add to the character of old iron fencing.
Whether it was made yesterday or in the 1800s, iron fencing offers enduring beauty
and unmatched durability, making it worth the splurge on a small fence or a front entry
gate.
CHAIN LINK FENCE & GATE

I f you’re looking for a strong, durable, and economical way to

keep pets and children in—or out—of your yard, a chain link
fence may be the perfect solution. Chain link fences require
minimal maintenance and provide excellent security. Erecting a
chain link fence is relatively easy, especially on level property.
Leave contoured fence lines to the pros. For a chain link fence with
real architectural beauty, consider a California-style chain link with
wood posts and rails (see pages 283 to 284).
A 48-inch-tall chain link fence—the most common choice for
residential use—is what we’ve demonstrated here. The posts,
fittings, and chain link mesh, which are made from galvanized
metal, can be purchased at home centers and fencing retailers. The
end, corner, and gate posts, called terminal posts, bear the stress of
the entire fence line. They’re larger in diameter than line posts and
require larger concrete footings. A footing three times the post
diameter is sufficient for terminal posts. A properly installed
stringer takes considerable stress off the end posts by holding the
post tops apart.
When the framework is in place, the mesh must be tightened
against it. This is done a section at a time with a winch tool called a
come-along. As you tighten the come-along, the tension is
distributed evenly across the entire length of the mesh, stretching it
taut against the framework. One note of caution: it’s surprisingly
easy to topple the posts if you over-tighten the come-along. To
avoid this problem, tighten just until the links of the mesh are
difficult to squeeze together by hand.
Instructions for installing a chain link gate are given on page
282. If you’re building a new fence, it’s a good idea to test-fit the
gate to make sure the gate posts are set properly before you
complete the fence assembly.

Chain link fencing is a strong, durable, and inexpensive way to

create a barrier, increase your property's security, or keep pets safely
inside.

Tools & Materials

Supplies for setting posts
Mason’s string
Ratchet wrench
Pliers
Hacksaw or pipe cutter
Chain link fence materials and hardware
Duct tape
Tie wire
Circular saw, reciprocating saw, or handsaw
Drill
Come-along with spread bar and wire grip
Hog ring pliers
4 × 4 posts
2 × 4 lumber
3" deck screws or 16d galvanized common nails
 Post finials or caps
Tension wire
Large galvanized fence staples
Hog rings
Lumber for cross bracing
Level
Permanent marker
Speed square
Clamps
Eye and ear protection
Hammer
Tape measure
Pencil
Work gloves
Privacy fabric tape
Vinyl privacy slats

Fittings are designed to accommodate slight alignment and height

differences between terminal posts and line posts. Tension bands,
which hold the mesh to the terminal posts, have one flat side to keep
the mesh flush along the outside of the fence line. The stringer ends
hold the top stringer in place and keep it aligned. Loop caps on the
line posts position the top stringer to brace the mesh.
 HOW TO INSTALL A CHAIN LINK FENCE

Install the posts. Lay out the fenceline, spacing the posts at 96" on-
center (see page 243 for laying out and setting posts). Dig holes for
terminal posts 8" in diameter with flared bottoms; dig holes for line
posts at 6". Make all postholes 30" deep or below the frost line,
whichever is deeper. Set the terminal posts in concrete so they
extend 50" above grade. Run a mason’s string between terminal
posts at 46" above grade. Set the line posts in concrete so their tops
are even with the string. If desired, stop the concrete 3" below
ground level and backfill with soil and grass to conceal the concrete.
Tip: When plumbing and bracing posts, use duct tape to secure
cross bracing to the posts.
Position the tension bands and stringer ends on the gate and end
terminal posts, using a ratchet wrench to tighten the bands with the
included bolt and nut. Each post gets three tension bands: 8" from
the top, 24" from the top, and 8" above the ground (plus a fourth
band at the bottom of the post if you will use a tension wire). Make
sure the flat side of each band faces the outside of the fence and
points into the fence bay. Also add a stringer end to each post, 3"
down from the top.

Add bands and ends to the corner posts. Each corner post gets
six tension bands, two at each location: 8" and 24" from the top and
8" from the bottom (plus two more at the bottom for a tension wire, if
applicable). Also install two stringer ends, 3" from the top of the post.
Orient the angled side up on the lower stringer end and the angled
side down on the upper stringer end.
Top each terminal post with a post cap and each line post with a
loop cap. Make sure the loop cap openings are perpendicular to the
fenceline, with the offset side facing the outside of the fenceline.
Begin installing the stringer, starting at a terminal post. Feed the
non-tapered end of a stringer section through the loop cap on the
nearest line post, then into the stringer end on the terminal post.
Make sure it’s snug in the stringer end cup. Continue feeding stringer
sections through loop caps, and join stringer sections together by
fitting the non-tapered ends over the tapered ends. If necessary, use
a sleeve to join two non-tapered ends.
Measure and cut the last stringer section to fit to complete the
stringer installation. Measure from where the taper begins on the
preceding section to the end of the stringer end cup. Cut the stringer
to length with a hacksaw or pipe cutter. Install the stringer.
Secure the chain link mesh to a terminal post, using a tension bar
threaded through the end row of the mesh. Anchor the bar to the
tension bands so the mesh extends about 1" above the stringer. The
nuts on the tension bands should face inside the fence. If applicable,
install a tension wire as directed by the manufacturer. Unroll the
mesh to the next terminal post, pulling it taut as you go.
Stretch the mesh toward the terminal post using the come-along.
Thread a spread bar through the mesh about 48" from the end, and
attach the come-along between the bar and terminal post. Pull the
mesh until it’s difficult to squeeze the links together by hand. Insert a
tension bar through the mesh and secure the bar to the tension
bands. Remove excess mesh by unwinding a strand. Tie the mesh to
the stringer and line posts every 12" using tie wire. See page 282 to
install a gate.

Weaving Chain Link Mesh Together

If a section of chain link mesh comes up short between the terminal
posts, you can add another piece by weaving two sections together.
 With the first section laid out
along the fenceline, estimate how
much more mesh is needed to
reach the next terminal post.
Overestimate 6" or so, so you
don’t come up short again.
Detach the amount of mesh
needed from the new roll by
bending back the knuckle ends of
one zig-zag strand in the mesh.
Make sure the knuckles of the
same strand are undone at the top
and bottom of the fence. Spin the
strand counter-clockwise to wind
it out of the links, separating the
mesh into two.
Place this new section of chain
link at the short end of the mesh
so the zig-zag patterns of the links line up with one another.
Weave the new section of chain link into the other section by
reversing the unwinding process. Hook the end of the strand into the
first link of the first section. Spin the strand clockwise until it winds
into the first link of the second section, and so on. When the strand has
connected the two sections, bend both ends back into a knuckle. Attach
the chain link mesh to the fence framework.
 HOW TO INSTALL A CHAIN LINK GATE

Set fence posts in concrete spaced far enough apart to allow for
the width of the gate plus required clearance for the latch. Position
the female hinges on the gate frame, as far apart as possible.
Secure with nuts and bolts (orient nuts toward the inside of the
fence).
Set the gate on the ground in the gate opening, next to the
gatepost. Mark the positions of the female hinges onto the gate post.
Remove the gate and measure up 2" from each hinge mark on the
gatepost. Make new reference marks for the male hinges.
Secure the bottom male hinge to the gatepost with nuts and bolts.
Slide the gate onto the bottom hinge. Then, lock the gate in with the
downward-facing top hinge.
Test the swing of the gate and adjust the hinge locations and
orientations, if needed, until the gate operates smoothly and the
opposite side of the gate frame is parallel to the other fence post.
Tighten the hinge nuts securely.
Attach the gate latch to the free side of the gate frame, near the
top of the frame. Test to make sure the latch and gate function
correctly. If you need to relocate a post because the opening is too
large or too small, choose the latch post, not the gate post.
 HOW TO BUILD A CALIFORNIA-STYLE
CHAIN LINK FENCE

Install the posts. Set the 4 × 4 fence posts in concrete, spacing

them at 6 to 8 ft. on center. The posts should stand at least 4" taller
than the finished height of the chain link mesh. See page 243 for
help with laying out your fenceline and installing the posts.

Trim the posts so they are 4" higher than the installed height of the
chain link mesh. Mark the post height on all four sides of each post,
and make the cuts with a circular saw, reciprocating saw, or
handsaw.
Add 2 × 4 top stringers between each pair of posts. Mark reference
lines 4" down from the tops of the posts. Cut each stringer to fit
snugly between the posts. Fasten the stringers with their top faces
on the lines using 3" deck screws or 16d galvanized common nails
driven through angled pilot holes.
Wrap tension wire around a terminal post, about 1" above the
ground. Staple the wire with a galvanized fence staple, and then
double back the tail of the wire and staple it to the post.
Staple the tension wire to the line posts after gently tightening the
wire (using a come-along with a wire grip) and securing the loose
end of the wire to the opposing terminal post. Option: You can install
2 × 4 bottom stringers in place of a tension wire.
Add finials or decorative caps to the post tops for a finished look
and to help protect the end grain of the wood.
Secure the fence mesh to the first terminal post using a tension bar
threaded through the end row of the mesh. Fasten the bar to the
posts with a fence staple every 8". Make sure the bar is plumb and
the top of the mesh overlaps the top stringer (and bottom stringer, if
applicable).
Unroll the mesh toward the other terminal post, and then stretch
the mesh gently with a come-along (see step 8, page 281). Secure
the end of the mesh to the post with a tension bar and staples, as
before. Remove any excess mesh by unwinding a strand (see page
281).
Attach the bottom edge of the mesh to the tension wire every 2 ft.,
using hog rings tightened with hog ring pliers. Staple the mesh to the
stringers every 2 ft. and to the line posts every 12".

Increasing Privacy on a Chain Link Fence

Privacy fabric tape cuts the wind and provides partial privacy. It’s purchased in rolls
with a limited number of color options. It is relatively inexpensive, but threading it
through the chain link mesh is time consuming.

Vinyl privacy slats create vertical lines and are easier to install than tape. They’re
available in a limited number of colors at most building centers. Some varieties of
strips also have a grass-like texture.
BAMBOO FENCE

B amboo is one of nature’s best building materials. It’s

lightweight, naturally rot-resistant, and so strong that it’s used
for scaffolding in many parts of the world. It’s also a highly
sustainable resource, since many species can be harvested every
three to five years without destroying the plants. Yet, perhaps the
best feature of bamboo is its appearance—whether it’s lined up in
orderly rows or hand-tied into decorative patterns, bamboo fencing
has an exotic, organic quality that adds a breath of life to any
setting.
Bamboo is a grass, but it shares many properties with wood. It
can be cut, drilled, and sanded with the same tools, and it takes
many of the same finishes, including stains and exterior sealers.
And, just like wood, bamboo is prone to splitting, though it retains
much of its strength even when subject to large splits and cracks. In
general, larger-diameter poles (which can be upwards of 5 inches)
are more likely to split than smaller (such as 3/4-inch-dia.) canes.
Bamboo fencing is commonly available in eight-foot-long
panels made from similarly sized canes held together with internal
or external wires. The panels, which are rolled up for easy
transport, can be used as infill within a new wood framework, or
they can attach directly to an existing wood or metal fence. Both of
these popular applications are shown here. Another option is to
build an all-bamboo fence using large bamboo poles for the posts
and stringers and roll-up panels for the infill.
Quality bamboo for fencing isn’t hard to find, but you can’t pick it
up at your local lumberyard. The best place to start shopping is the
internet (see Resources, page 553). Look for well-established
suppliers who are committed to sustainable practices. Most suppliers
can ship product directly to your home.

Tools & Materials

Tools and materials for laying out and setting posts
Circular saw or reciprocating saw
Drill
Countersink-piloting bit
Wire cutters
Lumber (4 × 4, 2 × 4, 1 × 4, 2 × 6)
Pliers
Deck screws (3", 2 1/2", 2")
Bamboo fence panels with 3/4"-dia. (or as desired) canes
Level
Tape measure
Eye and ear protection
Galvanized steel wire
Work gloves
 HOW TO BUILD A WOOD-FRAME BAMBOO
FENCE

Install and trim the 4 × 4 posts according to the size of your

bamboo panels, setting the posts in concrete (see page 243). For
the 6 × 8-ft. panels in this project, the posts are spaced 100" on-
center and are trimmed at 75" tall (refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations).

Install the top 2 × 4 stringers. Cut each stringer to fit snugly

between the posts. Position the stringer on edge so it is flush with
the tops of the posts and with the back or front faces of the posts.
Fasten the stringer with 3" deck screws driven through angled pilot
holes. Use one screw on each edge and one on the inside face of
the stringer, at both ends.
Mark the location of each bottom stringer. The span between the
top of the top stringer and bottom of the bottom stringer should equal
the bamboo panel height plus about 1". Cut and install the bottom
stringers in the same fashion as the top stringers. Here, the bottom
stringer will be installed 2" above the ground for rot prevention.
Unroll the bamboo panels.
Flatten the bamboo panels over the inside faces of the stringers.
Make sure the panels fit the frames on all sides. Using a
countersink-piloting bit (inset), drill a slightly countersunk pilot hole
through a bamboo cane and into the stringer at a top corner of the
panel. Fasten the corner with a 2" deck screw, being careful not to
overtighten and split the bamboo.
Fasten the rest of the panel with screws spaced 12" apart.
Stagger the screws top and bottom, and drive them in an alternating
pattern, working from one side to the other. Repeat steps 4 and 5 to
install the remaining bamboo panels.
Cover the top and bottom ends of the panels with 1 × 4 battens.
These finish off the panels and give the fence a similar look on both
sides. Cut the battens so the ends are flush against the inside faces
of the posts and fasten them to the panels and stringers with 2 1/2"
deck screws driven through pilot holes.
Add the top cap. Center the 2 × 6 top cap boards over the posts so
they overhang about 1" on either side. Fasten the caps to the posts
and stringers with 3" deck screws. Use miter joints for corners, and
use scarf joints (cut with opposing 30° or 45° bevels) to join cap
boards over long runs.

Reducing Panel Length

To shorten the length of a bamboo panel, cut the wiring holding the canes together
at least two canes beyond the desired length using wire cutters. Remove the extra
canes, and then wrap the loose ends of wire around the last cane in the panel.
 HOW TO COVER AN OLD FENCE WITH
BAMBOO

Unroll and position a bamboo panel over one or both sides of the
existing fence. Check the panel with a level and adjust as needed.
For rot prevention, hold the panel 1 to 2" above the ground. Tip: A 2
× 4 laid flat on the ground makes it easy to prop up and level the
panel.
Fasten the panel with deck screws driven through the bamboo
canes (and fence siding boards, if applicable) and into the fence
stringers. Drill countersunk pilot holes for the screws, being careful
not to overtighten and crack the bamboo. Space the screws 12"
apart, and stagger them top and bottom (see page 288).
Install the remaining bamboo panels, butting the edges together
between panels for a seamless appearance. If the fence posts
project above the stringer boards, you can cut the bamboo panels
flush with the posts. To trim the panels, follow the technique shown
in the Tip on page 288.
Variation: To dress up a chain link fence with bamboo fencing,
simply unroll the panels over the fence and secure them every 12" or
so with short lengths of galvanized steel wire. Tie the wire around the
canes or the panel wiring and over the chain link mesh.
INVISIBLE DOG FENCE

T he invisible, or underground, pet fence can be the perfect

option for those who love dogs but not necessarily dog fences.
The pet fence is invisible because the actual boundary is nothing
more than a thin electrical wire buried an inch or so underground. It
can also be laid into hard walkway and driveway surfaces and can
be installed above ground, on fences and other fixed structures.
This makes it easy to create a continuous barrier to enclose any or
all of your property as well as specific areas inside the boundary,
such as a garden or swimming pool. Invisible fences can also be
used for cats, provided they meet the weight minimum for safe use.
Here’s how the pet fence works: the boundary wire receives a
constant electrical signal from a small, plug-in transmitter located
in the house or other protected space. Your pet is fitted with a
special collar that picks up the signal in the wire and responds
accordingly: if your pet approaches the boundary area, the collar
beeps and vibrates to give him warning that the boundary is near. If
he continues beyond the warning zone, he is given an electrical
shock by the collar contacts—a clear message to back away from
the boundary.
Invisible pet fences effectively contain dogs of all types and are
suitable for small and large properties—up to 10 acres, in some
cases. However, it’s important to make sure this type of system is
right for your needs and your pet. While most dogs quickly learn to
respect the system, it’s always possible for a dog to breach the
boundary (a high-spirited pooch may be especially prone to doing
so). And keep in mind that this fence will not prevent other dogs
from entering your yard. After installing the fence, it’s critical that
you take the time to train your dog properly so that he knows where
the boundary lines are and understands the correction system. The
fence manufacturer should provide detailed training instructions.

A properly trained pet will stay within the invisible boundary, as

long as the animal wears the collar that is part of the invisible fence
system.
Invisible pet fence systems are available in complete kits and can
be installed in a day. The basic components for installation (photo
above) include from left to right: a transmitter and power cord (A),
installation manual or disc (B), boundary wire (C), boundary flags
(D), and receiver collar (E).

Tools & Materials

Tape measure (100-ft.)
Drill
Straightened coat hanger
Flat spade
Paint stir-stick
Circular saw and masonry blade
Concrete or asphalt caulk or patching material
Shop vacuum
Pet fence kit
Eye and ear potection
Screws
Stapler and staples (for wood fence installation only)
Electrical tape
Zip ties (for metal fence installation only)
Wire stripper
Wire nuts
Silicone caulk
Caulk gun
Work gloves
 BOUNDARY LAYOUT OPTIONS

A perimeter layout uses a single run of wire encircling the house

and grounds. A single section of twisted wire runs from the boundary
to the transmitter. Note: Twisting the boundary wire around itself
cancels the signal, creating a “free passage” area for your pet.
Protecting areas within a perimeter boundary is achieved by
looping the wire around the area and returning to the boundary.
Twisting the wire between the boundary and protected inner area
allow for free passage around the protected area.
A front or back-only layout requires a doubled loop of wire to
complete the boundary circuit. Starting at the transmitter, the wire
encircles the containment area and then doubles back, maintaining a
3- to 5-ft. space (or as directed) between runs to prevent canceling
the signal.
Incorporating a fence into the boundary can help deter your dog
from jumping over or digging under the fence. The wire can be
fastened directly to the fence and/or can be buried in front of the
fence. Burial allows you to protect gate openings. Run wires from the
transmitter to A, A to B, B to C, C to D, D to E, E to A, and then twist
wire from A to transmitter.
 HOW TO INSTALL AN INVISIBLE DOG
FENCE

Plan the layout of the boundary wire. With a helper, use a 100-ft.
tape measure to determine the total distance of the wire run. Factor
in extra length for twisted (free passage) sections and for making
adjustments. Order additional wiring, if necessary. Tip: Use the
boundary flags that come with the kit to temporarily mark the corners
and other points of the wire route.
Mount the transmitter on the inside of an exterior wall, near a
standard 120-volt receptacle. The location can be in the house,
garage, basement, or crawlspace and must be convenient, protected
from the elements, not subject to freezing temperatures, and must
be at least 3 ft. (or as recommended) from appliances or other large
metal objects. Mount the transmitter with appropriate screws.
Drill a hole through the wall for routing the boundary wire. The
hole can be just large enough to fit the wire (which will likely be
twisted at this point; see step 5). Alternatively, you can route the wire
through a window, door, or crawlspace/basement-wall vent, provided
the wire will be safe from damage. Identify stud and wire locations
before you drill but shut off electrical power to be safe.
Begin running the wire along the planned route. Be sure to leave
extra wire for twisting at the termination point of the boundary
(transmitter location), if applicable. Turn corners with the wire
gradually, not at sharp angles.
Twist the wire onto itself to cancel the signal for free passage
areas, as desired. With a helper holding the wire at the end of a loop
(start of twisted section), circle the spool around the wire to create 10
to 12 twists per linear foot (or as recommended). Be sure not to
exceed the maximum length of twisted wire.

Splice together multiple boundary wires (required only when the

boundary distance exceeds the length of wire provided with kit). Strip
1/ 2"
of insulation from the ends of both wires using a wire stripper.
Hold the ends together and join them with a wire nut, twisting the nut
on tightly. Tug on the wires to make sure they’re held by the nut.

Seal inside and around the wire nut with silicone caulk to create a
waterproof connection and prevent corrosion. When the caulk has
dried completely, reinforce the connection with electrical tape. Tip:
Make note of each splice location, as these are the most common
points of boundary wire failure.

Fish the ends of the boundary wire through the house wall
(termination of the boundary run) using a straightened coat hanger.
Wrap the wire ends around the fish tape bend and secure them with
electrical tape. Once through the wall, twist the wires to provide free
passage from the house to the boundary line, as appropriate for your
layout.

Connect the wire ends to the transmitter after stripping 1/2" of

insulation from each end. Secure the wires to the appropriate
terminals on the transmitter. Plug in the transmitter and set the
boundary controls for testing the system, as directed.
Test the system using the receiver collar and testing tool. Adjust the
collar settings as directed. Walk toward the boundary wire while
holding the collar at the pet’s neck height. Note when the warning
and correction signals are activated, indicated by the testing tool.
Test the system in multiple locations. Make adjustments to the
settings and/or boundary wire as needed.
Excavate grass or soil, making a continuous cut 1 to 3" deep. Drive
a spade into the ground, then rock the handle back and forth to
widen the cut slightly, creating a straight or gently curving slot.
Lay the boundary wire into the slot, using a paint stir-stick to seat
it into the bottom of the slot. Be careful not to kink or damage the
wire. Carefully close the slot by stepping along its length with one
foot on either side of the slot.
Cut slots into concrete or asphalt driveways and walks using a
circular saw with a masonry blade. Vacuum the slot clean, and then
lay the boundary wire into the slot. Seal over the slot with high-
quality concrete or asphalt caulk or patching compound.
Option: Use existing control joints to pass the boundary wire over
concrete drives and walks. Control joints are the shallow grooves
formed in the concrete to help control cracking. Clean and vacuum
the joint, then lay in the wire. Cover the joint with concrete caulk.
Fasten the boundary wire to fences, as directed by the
manufacturer. Use staples for wood fences and plastic zip ties for
metal fences (or simply weave the wire through chain link mesh). To
protect gate openings, bury the wire in the ground in front of the
opening.
Position the boundary flags using the collar to find the inside edge
of the warning zone. Move toward the boundary until the collar
beeps (warning signal) and place a flag at that location. Place a flag
every 10 ft. (or as directed) over the entire boundary area. Fit the
collar to your pet as directed to begin the training. After training
period, remove flags (follow manufacturer instructions).
PATIO WALL

P erhaps due to the huge popularity of interlocking concrete

wall block, which made building retaining walls a great do-it-
yourself project, you can now find concrete landscape blocks made
for a range of applications, including patio walls, freestanding
columns, raised planters, and even outdoor kitchens. The blocks
shown in this project require no mortar and are stacked up just like
retaining wall units. Yet unlike retaining wall blocks, these
“freestanding” units have at least two faceted faces, so the wall
looks good on both sides. And they have flat bottoms, allowing
them to be stacked straight up without a batter (the backward lean
required for most retaining walls).
Solid concrete blocks for freestanding walls come in a range of
styles and colors. Products that come in multiple sizes produce
walls with a highly textured look that mimics natural stone, while
walls made with uniform blocks have an appearance closer to
weathered brick. Many block products can be used for both curved
and straight walls, and most are compatible with cap units that give
the wall an architecturally appropriate finish, as well as a great
surface for sitting.
The wall in this project forms a uniform curve to follow the
shape of a circular patio. It’s built over a base of compacted gravel,
but you could build the same wall right on top of a concrete patio
slab. Keep in mind that freestanding walls like this are typically
subject to height limits, which might range from 20 to 36 inches or
higher. Walls with straight sections or gentle curves may need a
supporting feature, such as a column or 90-degree turn or jog, to
stabilize the wall.
Landscape block for freestanding walls is versatile and an easy
material with which to build. You can use it to create low walls of
almost any shape, plus columns, steps, and other features. Quality
block manufacturers offer a variety of styles and textures, along with
compatible specialty and accessory pieces for a well-integrated look.

Tools & Materials

Mason’s string
Landscape marking paint
Excavation tools
Line level
Plate compactor or hand tamp
Rake
4-ft. level
Caulk gun
Brickset or pitching chisel
Hand maul
Stone chisel
Wood stakes
Straight board
Compactable gravel
Concrete wall block and cap units
Concrete adhesive
Tape measure
Eye and ear protection
Circular saw with masonry blade (optional)
Heavy rope or garden hose
Wheelbarrow
Work gloves
 LAYING OUT FREESTANDING BLOCK
WALLS

Draw the rough outline of the wall onto the ground with a can of
marking paint. First measure the wall blocks and/or align a few
blocks in place as guides. To mark end columns, first measure the
blocks and then use the marking paint to outline the footprint of the
column (inset).
Freeform curving walls: Use heavy rope or a garden hose to lay
out the wall’s shape. Follow the rope with marking paint to transfer
the outline to the ground. To mark the other side of the wall and the
edges of the excavation, reposition the rope or hose the appropriate
distance away from the first mark and trace with paint.
Straight walls: Mark the outlines of the wall and/or excavation with
stakes and mason’s string. Position one string, then measure from it
to position any remaining strings as needed. Tip: Leave the stakes
marking one of the wall faces in the ground; you’ll use them later to
align the wall block.
 HOW TO BUILD A FREESTANDING PATIO
WALL

Remove the sod and other plantings inside the excavation area.
For a gravel base, the excavation should extend 6" beyond the wall
on all sides. If you are building adjacent to a sandset patio with
pavers, take care not to disturb the rigid paver edging. Alternatively,
fully excavate the ground around patio to compensate for wall
addition and install new edging around perimeter. Follow your
manufacturer’s instructions.

Set up level lines to guide the excavation using stakes and mason’s
string. For curved walls, you may need more than one string. Level
the string with a line level (make sure multiple strings are level with
one another). Measure from the string to ground level (grade), and
then add 12" (or as directed by the block manufacturer)—this is the
total depth required for the excavation.
Use a story pole to measure the depth as you complete the
excavation. To make a story pole, mark the finished depth of the
excavation onto a straight board, and use it to measure against the
string; this is easier than pulling out your tape measure for each
measurement.
Tamp the soil in the trench with a rented plate compactor or a
hand tamp. The bottom of the trench should be flat and level, with
the soil thoroughly compacted. Take care not to disturb or damage
adjacent structures.
Spread compactable gravel over the trench in an even 2- to 3"-
thick layer. Tamp the gravel thoroughly. Add the remaining gravel
and tamp to create a 6"-thick layer after compaction.
Check the gravel base with a level (or a level taped to a straight
board) to make sure the surface is uniform and perfectly level. Add
gravel to any low spots and tamp again.
Set the first course. If you’re using more than one thickness of
block, select only the thicker units for the first course. Lay out the
blocks in the desired pattern along the layout line, butting the ends
together for complete contact. If necessary, cut blocks to create the
desired curve (see step 10). Place a 4-ft. level across the blocks to
make sure they are level and flat across the tops.
Set the second course. Begin the course at the more visible end of
the wall. Set the blocks in the desired pattern, making sure to
overlap the block joints in the first course to create a bond pattern.
Alternate different sizes of block regularly, and check the entire
course with a level. If necessary, cut a block for the end of the wall.
End each course with a piece no narrower than 6". If necessary,
position a full unit at the end of the wall, then measure back and cut
the second-to-last unit to fit the space. Glue small end pieces in
place with concrete adhesive.
Cut blocks using a brickset or pitching chisel and a maul. First score
along the cutting line all the way around the block, and then chisel at
the line until the block splits. You can also cut a deep score line (on
thick block) or cut completely through (on thin block) using a circular
saw with a masonry blade.
Complete the remaining courses, following the desired pattern. Be
sure to maintain a bond with the course below by overlapping the
joints in the lower course. For the top two courses, glue each block
in place with concrete adhesive.
Install the cap blocks. Trapezoidal cap block may fit your wall’s
curve well enough without cuts (for gentle curves, try alternating the
cap positions). If cuts are necessary, dry-fit the pieces along the wall,
and plan to cut every other block on both side edges for an even fit.
Set all caps with concrete adhesive. Backfill along the wall to bury
most or all of the first course.
 Cut Facets

Round over the cut edges of blocks to match the original texture. Using a stone
chisel and mason’s hammer or maul, carefully chip along the edges to achieve the
desired look.
 HOW TO ADD DECORATIVE COLUMNS TO
A WALL

Set the first course of each column after completing the first wall
course (middle-of-wall columns are set along with each wall course).
Use four full blocks for the first course, butting the column blocks
against the end wall block. Check the column blocks for level. Note:
Prepare the ground as seen on pages 298 to 299.
Glue the second course and all subsequent courses in place with
concrete adhesive or according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
Cap the column with special cap units, or create your own caps
with squares of flagstone. Glue cap pieces in place with concrete
adhesive or mortar in between them, following the manufacturer’s
instructions. Tip: The hollow space in the column’s center is ideal for
running wiring for adding a light fixture on top of a cap.
OUTDOOR KITCHEN WALLS &
COUNTERTOP

L oaded with convenient work surfaces and a dedicated grill

space, the outdoor kitchen has changed backyard grilling
forever. This roomy kitchen can be the perfect addition to any patio
or garden retreat. It’s made entirely of concrete blocks and not only
looks great, it’s also incredibly easy to build.
The design of this kitchen comes from a manufacturer (see
Resources, page 553) that supplies all of the necessary masonry
materials on two pallets. As shown, the project’s footprint is about
98 × 109 inches and includes a 58-inch-wide space for setting in a
grill. Square columns can provide work surfaces on either side of
the grill, so you’ll want to keep them conveniently close, but if you
need a little more or a little less room for your grill, you can simply
adjust the number of blocks that go into the front wall section
enclosing the grill alcove.
Opposite the grill station is a 32-inch-tall countertop capped
with large square pavers, or patio stones, for a finished look. This
countertop has a lower surface for food prep and a higher surface
for serving or dining. A low side wall connects the countertop with
the grill area and adds just the right amount of enclosure to
complete the kitchen space.
This all-masonry outdoor kitchen comes ready to assemble on
any solid patio surface, or you can build it over a prepared gravel
base anywhere in your landscape (check with the manufacturer for
base requirements). For a custom design, similar materials are
available to purchase separately and the installation would be more
or less the same as shown here. Discuss the project with the
manufacturer for specifics. If you decide to build just a part of this
kitchen (the bar, for example), review the setup and site prep steps
at the beginning of this project.

Tools & Materials

Masonry outdoor kitchen kit (concrete wall block, concrete patio
stones)
Chalk line
Framing square
Straight board
Level
Caulk gun
Exterior-grade concrete adhesive
Tape measure
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
 HOW TO BUILD THE OUTDOOR KITCHEN

Dry-lay the project on the installation surface. This overview of the

first course of blocks shows how the kitchen is constructed with five
columns and two wall sections. Laying out the first course carefully
and making sure the wall sections are square ensures the rest of the
project will go smoothly.
Create squared reference lines for the kitchen walls after you
remove the dry-laid blocks. Snap a chalk line representing the
outside face of the front wall. Mark the point where the side wall will
meet the front wall. Place a framing square at the mark and trace a
perpendicular line along the leg of the square. Snap a chalk line
along the pencil line to represent the side wall, or use the edge of a
patio as this boundary (as shown). To confirm that the lines are
square, mark the front-wall line 36" from the corner and the side-wall
line 48" from the corner. The distance between the marks should be
60". If not, re-snap one of the chalk lines until the measurements
work out.

Begin laying the first course of block. Starting in the 90° corner of
the chalk lines, set four blocks at right angles to begin the corner
column. Make sure all blocks are placed together tightly. Set the long
wall with blocks laid end to end, followed by another column.
Finish laying the first course, including two more columns, starting
at the side wall. Use a straight board as a guide to make sure the
columns form a straight line. To check for square, measure between
the long wall and the short wall at both ends; the measurements
should be equal. Adjust the short-wall columns as needed.
Set the second course. Add the second course of blocks to each of
the columns, rotating the pattern 90° to the first course. Set the
blocks for the long and side walls, leaving about a 2" gap in between
the corner column and the first block. Set the remaining wall blocks
with the same gap so the blocks overlap the joints in the first course.
Set the third course. Lay the third-course blocks using the same
pattern as in the first course. For appearance and stability, make
sure the faces of the blocks are flush with one another and that the
walls and columns are plumb. Use a level to align the blocks and
check for plumb.
Install the remaining courses. The higher courses of wall block are
glued in place. Set the courses in alternating patterns, as before,
gluing each block in place with concrete adhesive.
Build the short wall overhang. Starting at one end of the short
wall, glue wall blocks along the tops of the columns with concrete
adhesive. Position blocks perpendicular to the length of the short
wall, overhanging the columns by 3".
Complete the short wall top. Create the counter surface for the
short wall by gluing patio stones to the tops of the columns and
overhanging blocks. Position the stones for the lower surface against
the ends of the overhanging blocks. Position the upper-surface
stones so they extend beyond the overhanging blocks slightly on the
outside ends and a little more so on the inside ends.
Cap the corner columns. Finish the two corner columns with wall
blocks running parallel to the side wall. Glue the cap pieces in place
on the columns using concrete adhesive. Make sure the blocks are
fitted tightly together.
DRY STONE WALL

Y ou can construct a low stone wall without mortar, using a

centuries-old method known as “dry laying.” With this
technique, the wall is actually formed by two separate stacks that
lean together slightly. Each stone overlaps a joint in the previous
course. This technique avoids long vertical joints, resulting in a
wall that is attractive and strong. The position and weight of the
two stacks support each other, forming a single, sturdy wall.
While dry walls are simple to construct, they do require a fair
amount of patience. The stones must be carefully selected and
sorted by size and shape. They must also be correctly positioned in
the wall so that weight is distributed evenly. Long, flat stones work
best. A quarry or aggregate supply center will have a variety of
sizes, shapes, and colors to choose from. For this project you’ll
need to purchase a number of stones in these four sizes:

• Shaping: half the width of the wall

• Tie: the same width as the wall
• Filler: small shims that fit into cracks
• Cap: large, flat stones, wider than the wall

Because the wall relies on itself for support, a concrete footing

is unnecessary, but the wall must be at least half as wide as it is tall.
This means some stones may need to be shaped or split to maintain
the spacing and structure of the wall.
A dry stone wall is one of the oldest and strongest styles of garden
wall out there. The wall's two stacks of stones rely on one another for
support.

Tools & Materials

Circular saw with masonry blade
Hand sledge
Mason’s chisel
4-ft. level
Mason’s trowel
Stones of various shapes and sizes
Cap stones
Type M mortar
Rough-textured rag
Compactable gravel
Excavation tools
Mason’s string
Wood stakes
Tape measure
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
 HOW TO BUILD A DRY STONE WALL

Lay out the wall site with stakes and mason’s string. Dig a 24"-
wide trench that is 6" deep at the edges and 8" deep in the center,
creating a slight V shape by evenly sloping the sides toward the
center. Compact any loose soil. Add a 2"-layer of gravel, but do not
compact it.
Lay two rows of shaping stones along the bottom of the trench.
Position them flush with the edges of the trench and sloping toward
the center, staggering joints. Use stones similar in height. If stones
have uneven surfaces, position them with the uneven sides facing
down.
Form a corner by laying the last stone of the outer row so it covers
the end of the stone in the outer row of the adjacent wall course. Lay
the inner row in the same manner.
Lay the second course and fill any significant gaps between the
shaping stones with rubble and filler stones.
Lay the stones for the second course corner so they cover the
joints of the first course corner. Form corners using the same steps
as for forming the first course corner. Use stones that have long,
square sides. Place tie stones across the width of each wall just
before the corner. Build the wall ends in this same way. Use stones
of varying lengths so that each joint is covered by the stone above it.
Wedge filler stones into any large gaps.
Lay the third course. Work from the corner to the end of the wall. If
necessary, shape or split the final stones of the course to size with a
masonry saw or hand sledge and chisel. Place tie stones
approximately every 36". Lay shaping stones between the tie stones.
Make sure to stagger the joints; stones of varying lengths will help
offset them. Continue to place filler stones into any cracks on the
surface or sides of the wall. Continue laying courses, maintaining a
consistent height along the wall and adding tie stones to every third
course. Check for level as you go.
When the wall is about 36" high, check for level. Trowel mortar
onto the center of the wall, in at least 6" from the edges. Center the
capstones and set them as close together as possible. Carefully fill
the cracks between the capstones with mortar. Let any excess
mortar dry until crumbly, then brush it off. After two or three days,
scrub off any residue using water and a rough-textured rag.
 Slopes & Curves
If slope is an issue along your wall site, you can easily build a stepped
wall to accommodate it. The key is to keep the stones level so they
won’t shift or slide with the grade, and to keep the first course below
ground level. This means digging a stepped trench.
Lay out the wall site with stakes and mason’s string. Dig a trench 4
to 6" deep along the entire site, including the slope. Mark the slope with
stakes at the bottom where it starts, and at the top where it ends.
Begin the first course along the straight-line section of the trench,
leading up to the start of the slope. At the reference stake, dig into the
slope so a pair of shaping stones will sit level with the rest of the wall.
To create the first step, excavate a new trench into the slope, so that
the bottom is level with the top of the previous course. Dig into the
slope the length of one-and-a-half stones. This will allow one pair of
stones to be completely below the ground level, and one pair to span
the joint where the new trench and the stones in the course below meet.
Continue creating steps, to the top of the slope. Make sure each step
of the trench section remains level with the course beneath. Then fill
the courses, laying stones in the same manner as for a straight-line wall.
Build to a maximum height of 36", and finish by stepping the top to
match the grade change, or create a level top with the wall running in to
the slope.
If you’d like a curved wall or wall segment, lay out each curve, as
demonstrated on page 297. Then dig the trench as for a straight wall,
sloping the sides into a slight V toward the center. Lay the stones as for
a straight wall, but use shorter stones; long, horizontal stones do not
work as well for a tight curve. Lay the stones so they are tight together,
offsetting the joints along the entire stretch. Be careful to keep the stone
faces vertical to sustain the curve all the way up the height of the wall.
If the wall goes up- or downhill, step the trench, the courses, and the top of the wall
to keep the stones level.
To build a curved wall, lay out the curve using a string staked to a center point as a
compass. Then, dig the trench and set stones using the same techniques as for a
straight wall.
INTERLOCKING BLOCK RETAINING
WALL

S loping areas of a yard may be fun for the kids to play on, but
they can certainly limit your usable space for amenities like
patios and gardens. When you need more flat ground or simply
want to reshape nature’s contours a bit, a low retaining wall is the
answer. Retaining walls cut into a slope—and in some cases,
replace the slope—bridging the upper and lower levels while
adding more useable area to both.
Low retaining walls can be built with a variety of materials,
including landscape timbers, natural stone, and poured concrete.
But by far the most popular material for do-it-yourself projects is
interlocking concrete block made specifically for retaining walls.
This block requires no mortar—most types are simply stacked in
ordered rows—and it has flanges (or pins) that automatically set
the batter for the wall (the backward lean that most retaining walls
have for added strength). Interlocking block is available at home
and garden centers and landscape suppliers. Most types have
roughly textured faces to mimic the look of natural stone.
Due to the structural factors involved, the recommended height
limit for do-it-yourself retaining walls is three feet. Anything
higher is best left to a professional. As walls get taller, the physical
stresses involved and resulting potential problems rise dramatically.
Retaining walls of any size may be governed by the local building
code; contact your city’s building department to learn about
construction specifications and permit requirements.
Interlocking concrete block is the only retaining wall material that
comes ready to install. With little or no cutting, you can build a wall
with straight lines, curves, or steps, or have it conform to a slope on
one or both ends.

Tools & Materials

Wheelbarrow
Shovel
Line level
Hand tamper
Tamping machine (available for rent)
Small maul
Masonry chisel
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
4-ft. level
Tape measure
Caulk gun
Circular saw with masonry cutting blade
Stakes
Mason’s string
Landscape fabric
Compactable gravel
Perforated drain pipe
Coarse backfill material
Construction adhesive
Excavation tools
Interlocking block
Flour or marking paint
 OPTIONS FOR POSITIONING A RETAINING
WALL
Image
Structural features for all retaining walls include: a compactable
gravel subbase to make a solid footing for the wall, crushed stone
backfill, a perforated drain pipe to improve drainage behind the wall,
and landscape fabric to keep the loose soil from washing into and
clogging the gravel backfill. There are a couple different ways you
can position a retaining wall on your slope:

(A) Increase the level area above the wall by positioning the wall well
forward from the top of the hill. Fill in behind the wall with extra soil,
which is available from sand-and-gravel companies.

Image
(B) Keep the basic shape of your yard by positioning the wall near
the top of the hillside. Use the soil removed at the base of the hill to
fill in near the top of the wall.

Tips for Building Retaining Walls

Image
Backfill with crushed stone and install a perforated drain pipe about 6" above the
bottom of the backfill. Vent the pipe to the side or bottom of the retaining wall, where
runoff water can flow away from the hillside without causing erosion.

Image
Make a stepped trench when the ends of a retaining wall must blend into an existing
hillside. Retaining walls are often designed so the ends curve or turn back into the
slope.
 HOW TO BUILD A RETAINING WALL USING
INTERLOCKING BLOCK
Image
Interlocking wall blocks do not need mortar. Some types are held
together with a system of overlapping flanges that automatically set
the backward pitch (batter) as the blocks are stacked, as shown in
this project. Other types of blocks use fiberglass pins (inset).

Image
Excavate the hillside, if necessary. Allow 12" of space for crushed
stone backfill between the back of the wall and the hillside. Use
stakes to mark the front edge of the wall. Connect the stakes with
mason’s string, and use a line level to check for level.

Image
Dig out the bottom of the excavation below ground level, so it is 6"
lower than the height of the block. For example, if you use 6"-thick
block, dig down 12". Measure down from the string in multiple spots
to make sure the bottom base is level.

Image
Line the excavation with strips of landscape fabric cut 3 ft.
longer than the planned height of the wall. Make sure all seams
overlap by at least 6".

Image
Spread a 6" layer of compactable gravel over the bottom of the
excavation as a subbase and pack it thoroughly. A rented tamping
machine, or jumping jack, works better than a hand tamper for
packing the subbase.

Image
Lay the first course of block, aligning the front edges with the
mason’s string. (When using flanged block, place the first course
upside down and backward.) Check frequently with a level and
adjust, if necessary, by adding or removing subbase material below
the blocks.

Image
Lay the second course of block according to manufacturer’s
instructions, checking to make sure the blocks are level. (Lay flanged
block with the flanges tight against the underlying course.) Add 3 to
4" of gravel behind the block, and pack it with a hand tamper.

Image
Make half-blocks for the corners and ends of a wall, and use
them to stagger vertical joints between courses. Score full blocks
with a circular saw and masonry blade, then break the blocks along
the scored line with a maul and chisel.

Image
Add and tamp crushed stone, as needed, to create a slight
downward pitch (about 1/4" of height per foot of pipe) leading to the
drain pipe outlet. Place the drain pipe on the crushed stone, 6"
behind the wall, with the perforations face down. Make sure the pipe
outlet is unobstructed. Lay courses of block until the wall is about 18"
above ground level, staggering the vertical joints.

Image
Fill behind the wall with crushed stone, and pack it thoroughly
with the hand tamper. Lay the remaining courses of block, except for
the cap row, backfilling with crushed stone and packing with the
tamper as you go.

Image
Before laying the cap block, fold the end of the landscape fabric
over the crushed stone backfill. Add a thin layer of topsoil over the
fabric, then pack it thoroughly with a hand tamper. Fold any excess
landscape fabric back over the tamped soil.

Image
Apply construction adhesive to the top course of block, then lay
the cap block. Use topsoil to fill in behind the wall and to fill in the
base at the front of the wall. Install sod or plants, as desired.
 HOW TO ADD A CURVE TO AN
INTERLOCKING BLOCK RETAINING WALL
Image
Outline the curve by first driving a stake at each end and then
driving another stake at the point where lines extended from the first
stakes would form a right angle. Tie a mason’s string to the right-
angle stake, extended to match the distance to the other two stakes,
establishing the radius of the curve. Mark the curve by swinging flour
or spray paint at the string end, like a compass.

Image
Excavate for the wall section, following the curved layout line. To
install the first course of landscape blocks, turn them upside down
and backward and align them with the radius curve. Use a 4-ft. level
to ensure the blocks sit level and are properly placed.

Image
Install subsequent courses so the overlapping flange sits flush
against the back of the blocks in the course below. As you install
each course, the radius will change because of the backwards pitch
of the wall, affecting the layout of the courses. Where necessary, trim
blocks to size. Install using landscape construction adhesive, taking
care to maintain the running bond.

Image
Use half blocks or cut blocks to create finished ends on open ends
of the wall.
TIMBER RETAINING WALL

A low retaining wall built with timbers follows many of the

same construction steps as an interlocking block wall (see
pages 312 to 314). All steps specific to timber construction are
shown here.
When built properly, a timber retaining wall can have a life span
of 15 to 20 years. Be sure to use pressure-treated lumber rated for
ground contact, and build the wall with 5 × 6 or larger timbers; 4 ×
4 and 4 × 6 sizes are not strong enough for retaining walls. Avoid
using old, discarded railroad ties that have been soaked in creosote,
which can leach into the soil and kill plants.
Cut the timbers with a reciprocating saw and long wood blade
(or a chain saw, if you prefer). Before building the retaining wall,
prepare the site as directed in steps one to three on page 312.

Image
Timber retaining walls must be anchored with “deadmen” that
extend from the wall back into the soil. Deadmen prevent the wall
from sagging under the weight of the soil. For best results with
timber retaining walls, create a backward angle (batter) by setting
each row of timbers 1/2" behind the preceding row. The first row of
timbers should be buried.

Tools & Materials

Compactable gravel
Timber (5 × 6 or larger)
12" galvanized spikes
Eye and ear protection
Reciprocating saw and long wood blade
Excavation tools
Hand maul
Drill with bits
Landscape fabric
Hand tamper
Work gloves

Tips for Strengthening a Timber Retaining Wall

Image
Install vertical anchor posts to reinforce the wall. Space the posts 3 ft. apart, and
install them so the buried depth of each post is at least half the exposed height of the
wall. Anchor posts are essential if it is not practical to install deadmen.
 HOW TO BUILD A RETAINING WALL USING
TIMBERS
Image
Spread a 6"-layer of compactable gravel subbase into the
prepared trench, then tamp the subbase and begin laying timbers,
following the same techniques as with interlocking blocks (steps 4 to
11, pages 313 to 314). Each row of timbers should be set with a 1/2"
batter, and end joints should be staggered so they do not align.

Image
Use 12" galvanized spikes or reinforcement bars to anchor the
ends of each timber to the underlying timbers. Stagger the ends of
the timbers to form strong corner joints. Drive additional spikes along
the length of the timbers at 2-ft. intervals. If you have trouble driving
the spikes, drill pilot holes.

Image
Install deadmen, spaced 4 ft. apart, midway up the wall. Build the
deadmen by joining 3-ft-long lengths of timber with 12" spikes, then
insert the ends through holes cut in the landscape fabric. Anchor
deadmen to the wall with spikes. Install the remaining rows of
timbers, and finish backfilling behind the wall (steps 6 to 11, pages
313 to 314).

Image
Improve drainage by drilling weep holes through the second row of
landscape timbers and into the gravel backfill using a spade bit.
Space the holes 4 ft. apart, and angle them upward.
STONE RETAINING WALL

R ough-cut wall stones may be dry stacked (without mortar)

into retaining walls, garden walls, and other stonescape
features. Dry-stack walls move and shift with the frost, and they
drain well so they don’t require deep footings and drain tiles.
In the project featured here, we use rough-split limestone blocks
about eight inches by about four inches thick and in varying
lengths. Walls like this may be built up to three feet tall, but keep
them shorter if you can, to be safe. Building multiple short walls is
often a more effective way to manage a slope than to build one
taller wall. Called terracing, this practice requires some planning.
Ideally, the flat ground between pairs of walls will be
approximately the same size.
A dry-laid natural stone retaining wall is a very organic-looking
structure compared to interlocking block retaining walls (pages 312
to 314). One way to exploit the natural look is to plant some of
your favorite stone-garden perennials in the joints as you build the
wall. Usually one plant or a cluster of three will add interest to a
wall without suffocating it in vegetation or compromising its
stability. Avoid plants that get very large or develop thick, woody
roots or stems that may affect the stability of the wall.
A well-built retaining wall has a slight lean, called a batter, back
into the slope. It has a solid base of compacted gravel, and the first
course is set below grade for stability.

Image
A natural stone retaining wall blends into its surroundings
immediately and only looks better with age. Building the wall with
ashlar, or cut wall stone, is a much easier project than a wall built
with round fieldstones or large boulders.

Tools & Materials

Mason’s string
Line level
Stakes
Hand maul
Torpedo level
Straight 2 × 4
Hand tamper
Compactable gravel
Ashlar wall stone
Landscape fabric
Caulk gun
Block and stone adhesive
Excavation tools
Coarse sand
Drainage gravel (1 1/2 to 3" river rock is recommended)
Stone chisel
4-ft. level
Tape measure
Hammer
Scissors
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Image
Our single-row retaining wall has a 1/2" batter, created by setting
each course of stone 1/2" back from the face of the course below.
The base of the wall includes a compacted gravel subbase topped
with sand to help level the first course of stones. Roots of plants
sewn into the wall crevices (an optional decorative embellishment)
will eventually reach into the soil behind the wall.
 HOW TO BUILD A STONE RETAINING WALL
Image
Begin excavating the wall site. Dig a trench for the base of wall,
making it 6" wider than the wall thickness. If necessary, dig into the
slope, creating a backward angle that roughly follows the 1/2" batter
the wall will have. If desired, dig returns back into the slope at the
end(s) of the wall.

Image
Measure the depth of the trench against a level mason’s string
running parallel to the trench. The bottom of the trench should be
level and 8" below grade (ground level) for the main section of wall
and any returns. If the trench becomes too shallow due to natural
contours, step it down the height of one stone.

Image
Complete the wall base by tamping the soil in the trench, and then
adding a 3"-layer of compactable gravel and tamping it flat and level.
Cover the gravel with landscape fabric, draping the fabric back over
the slope. Add a 1"-layer of sand over the fabric in the trench area.
Smooth and level the sand with a short 2 × 4 screed board, checking
for level with a torpedo level set on the board.

Image
Set the first course with heavy stones, laying long, square-ended
stones at the corners first. Tip: Organize your stones by size, and
plan to set each course with stones of similar thicknesses. Set up a
level mason’s string just in front of the top front edge of the course,
letting the stones roughly guide the string placement.
 Image
Add or remove sand beneath the stones as needed so they are
nearly touching the string. Level the stones front to back with a
torpedo level and side to side with a 4-ft. level. If necessary, use a
hand maul and stone chisel to chip off irregularities from the edges
of stones to improve their fit.

Image
Begin the second course, starting with both ends of the wall face.
Reset and level the mason’s string at the height of the second
course. Place the second-course stones back 1/2" from the front
edges of the first-course stones, overlapping all joints of the first
course to create a bond pattern.

Image
Shim beneath stones as needed to level them or add stability,
using stone shards and chips. Complete the second course over the
main part of the wall.

Image
Complete the returns, as applicable, maintaining the offset joint
pattern with the first course. You may need to dig into the slope to
create a level base for the return stones. Add a layer of compacted
gravel under each return stone before setting it. Complete the
remaining courses up to the final (capstone) course.

Image
Backfill behind the base of the wall with drainage rock (not
compactable gravel). For a low wall like this, 6 to 10" of gravel is
usually sufficient; taller walls may require more gravel and possibly a
drainage pipe. Pack the gravel down with a 2 × 4 to help it settle.
 Image
Fold the landscape fabric over the gravel, and backfill over the
fabric with soil. (The fabric is there to prevent the soil from migrating
into the gravel and out through the wall stones.) Trim the fabric just
behind the back of the wall, near the top.

Image
Install the final course using long, flat cap stones. Glue the caps in
place with block and stone adhesive. After the glue dries, add soil
behind the wall to the desired elevation for planting.
YARD & GARDEN STRUCTURES

I n this chapter, we turn to the

various structures that add to
the usefulness of your yard and
landscape, either through
enhancing the recreational
function or by creating places
for maintenance or storage or
outdoor hobbies, such as
recreational gardening. These
projects go beyond the
hardscaping features demonstrated in the earlier chapters,
providing instead a variety of freestanding, self-contained
structures that offer either living spaces or practical, hard-working
spaces that add functionality to your landscape.
Choosing the correct location for these projects is crucial to their
success. While some of these projects are done in conjunction with
permanent decks or patios that are already in place, with others you
will have a choice of where to locate them; picking the right
location spells the difference between a feature that is useful and
attractive and one that becomes an obstacle or even an eyesore.
Give careful consideration to the overall map of your landscape
before committing to a permanent structure that will remain in
place for years.
And because these are permanent structures, always consult
with your municipal residential construction offices to learn about
any code requirements for your project. There might be set-back
rules for a shed, for example, specifying location of the project
relative to property boundaries. Or your region might have unique
foundation or structural requirements that can’t be fully addressed
by the instructions in this book.

IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Arbor Retreat
• Patio Enclosure
• Patio Arbor/Trellis Enclosure
• Adding a Trellis to an Arbor
• Under-deck Enclosure
• Sun Porch
• DIY Gabled Greenhouse
• Freestanding Kit Greenhouse
• PVC Hoophouse
• Metal & Wood Kit Sheds
• Lean-to Tool Bin
ARBOR RETREAT

T he airy, sun-filtered space under an arbor always makes you

want to stay awhile—thus, it’s a perfect place for built-in
seating. The arbor getaway we’ve chosen (facing page) has plenty
of room for lounging or visiting, but it’s designed to do much more:
Viewed from the front, the arbor retreat becomes an elegant
passageway. The bench seating is obscured by latticework, and
your eyes are drawn toward the central opening and striking
horizontal beams. This makes the structure perfect as a grand
garden entrance or a landscape focal point. For added seclusion,
tuck this arbor behind some foliage.
Sitting inside the retreat you can enjoy privacy and shade behind
the lattice screens. The side roof sections over the seats are lowered
to follow a more human scale and create a cozier sense of
enclosure. Each bench comfortably fits three people and the two
sides face each other at a range that’s ideal for conversation.
A classic archway with a keystone motif gives this arbor retreat its
timeless appeal.
An arbor with benches makes an ideal resting spot that will
become a destination when hiking to remote areas of your property.
A slatted roof and lattice walls are designed to cut sun and wind,
creating a comfortable environment inside the arbor retreat.
A few subtle touches turn this cedar arbor into a true standout. The
arches at the tops of the sidewall panels give the design visual lift
and a touch of Oriental styling.

Materials List
Posts
Description (No. finished Inner posts (4)
pieces)
Quantity/Size 4 @ field measure
Material 4×4

Description (No. finished Outer posts (4)

pieces)
Quantity/Size 4 @ field measure
Material 4×4

Description (No. finished Concrete

pieces)
Quantity/Size Field measure
Material 3,000 psi concrete

Description (No. finished Gravel

pieces)
Quantity/Size Field measure
Material Compactable gravel

Roof
Description (No. finished Beams (6 main, 4 cross)
pieces)
Quantity/Size 8 @ 8'
Material 4×4

Description (No. finished Roof slats (10 lower, 11 upper)

pieces)
Quantity/Size 21 @ 8'
Material 2×2

Seats
Description (No. finished Seat supports, spacers, slats (6 horizontal
pieces) supports, 6 vertical supports, 4 spacers, 16 slats)
Quantity/Size 16 @ 8'
Material 2×6

Description (No. finished Aprons (2)

pieces)
Quantity/Size 2 @ 6'
Material 1×8

Lattice Screens
Description (No. finished Arches (4)
pieces)
Quantity/Size 1 @ 8'
Material 2×8

Description (No. finished Slats—arched sides (20 horizontal, 8 vertical)

pieces)
Quantity/Size 12 @ 8'
Material 2×2

Description (No. finished Slats—back (8)

pieces)
Quantity/Size 8 @ 8'
Material 2×2

Hardware & Fasteners

Description (No. finished 3/8" × 7" galvanized lag screws
pieces)
Quantity/Size 12, with washers
Material
Description (No. finished 3" deck screws
pieces)
Quantity/Size

Material

Description (No. finished 3 1/2" deck screws

pieces)
Quantity/Size

Material

Description (No. finished 2 1/2" deck screws

pieces)
Quantity/Size

Material

Description (No. finished 1/4" × 3" galvanized lag screws

pieces)
Quantity/Size 16, with washers
Material

Tools
Mason’s string
Laser level or 4-ft. level
Hammer or maul
Stakes
Drill
Ladder
Circular saw
Posthole digger
Concrete
Shovel
Tape measure
Pencil
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
Clamps
Jigsaw or bandsaw
Random orbit sander
Exterior sealant/protectant

Front Elevation
Beam End Detail

Side Elevation
Post Layout
Upper Level Roof Framing Plan
Seat Framing Plan
Roof/Slat Plan
Slat Plan @ Seating
Seat Section
Arch Detail/Screen Layout
Seat Level Roof Framing Plan
Seat Slat Layout Plan
 HOW TO BUILD THE ARBOR RETREAT

Stake out the project area. Drive a pair of stakes about 2 ft. outside
of each corner and string mason’s lines from the stakes to create a
rectangle that’s equal to the total project footprint (6 ft. × 8 ft. 8" as
seen here). Mark post locations on the strings, as shown in the Post
Layout diagram on page 327, and drive stakes at those points to
mark postholes.
Set the eight posts in concrete, making sure that the tops of the
four inner posts are at least 84" above the ground, and the four outer
posts are 72" above ground. The size and depth of postholes should
conform to local building codes. At a minimum, the postholes should
be three times the diameter of the post (a 12"-dia. hole) and 24"
deep. Use stakes and braces to level and plumb the posts.
Trim post tops. Let the concrete set up overnight and then mark
level cutting lines on the posts tops. Use a laser level or a 4 ft. level
taped to a straight 2 × 4 to transfer the cutting lines. Make sure to
make all four faces of each post. Use a circular saw (a cordless trim
saw is best) to trim the post tops.
Cut the lower and upper level beams. The lower level consists of
four beams running perpendicular to the seats, and two beams
running parallel to the seats. The upper level has two main beams
and two cross beams. The 4 × 4 beams have two ends rounded over
at the bottom corners with a jig saw. Cut the lower seat level beams
to length at 36 1/2". Cut the lower cross beams at 84". Cut upper
level main beams to length at 79". Cut upper level cross beams at
96".
Install the lower beams. For each lower level main beam, set the
beam on top of an outer post and butt its unshaped end against the
corresponding inner post. Hold the beam level, and mark the point
where the top face of the beam meets the inner post. Set the beam
aside.
Mark a drilling point for a pilot hole on the opposite (inside) face
of the inner post. Then, drill a counterbored hole just deep enough to
completely recess the washer and head of a 3/8" × 7" lag screw.
Reposition each beam so its top face is on the post reference line.
Then drill a pilot hole for the lag screw through the inner post and
into the end of the beam. Fasten each main beam with a 3/8" lag
screw.
Drill angled pilot holes through the sides of the cross beams and
into the main beams, about 3/4" in from the sides of the main beams
(to avoid hitting the large screws). Drill two holes on each side of the
cross beam at each joint. Fasten cross beams to main beams with 3
1/2" deck screws (eight screws for each cross beam) driven toenail
style.
Cut the 10 lower roof slats to length (78"). Mark the roof slat layout
onto the tops of the lower main beams, following the plan on page
328. Position slats so they overhang the main beams by 3" at both
ends. Drill pilot holes, and fasten the slats to the main beams with 2
1/2" deck screws.
Cut seat supports according to the chart on page 329. Save the
cutoffs to make seat slats. Also cut a pair of vertical support spacers
from a full 2 × 6. Test-fit the pieces onto the arbor posts and make
necessary adjustments. Make 18°-plumb cuts at the fronts of the
seat supports.
Position the horizontal seat supports by first measuring up from
the ground and marking the inner posts at 16 1/2" and the outer posts
at 13". (This marks the top edges of the horizontal supports.) Next,
position the seat supports on the marks so their back ends are flush
with the outsides of the outer posts. Fasten the supports to the posts
with 1/4" × 3" lag screws driven through counterbored pilot holes.
Position the vertical seat back support spacers and mark the
locations of the support spacer onto the post. Fasten spacers to the
post with 3" deck screws driven through pilot holes. Then, fasten the
vertical seat back support to the spacer and horizontal seat support
with 3 1/2" deck screws; use three or four screws at each end.
Measure and cut 1 × 8 aprons to lengths so they will fit between
the outside faces of the side seat supports. Bevel-cut the top edges
of the aprons at 7°. Position the aprons against the seat supports.
Fasten aprons to the ends of seat supports with 3 1/2" deck screws.
Install seat slats and center supports by first measuring between
inner posts for seat slat length; then cutting eight slats for each side.
Position a slat on top of the horizontal seat supports so the front
edge overhangs the supports by about 1". Fasten the slat to
supports with pairs of 3" deck screws. Continue installing slats,
leaving a 3/16" gap between each.
Assemble the two center seat supports so they match the outer
supports, using 2 1/2" deck screws. Install the center supports at the
midpoints of the slats by screwing through the slats and into the
supports, using 3" deck screws.
Build arched lattice screens by first marking the layout of
horizontal lattice pieces onto the posts. Mark along one post and use
a level to transfer the marks to the other post. Then cut 20 2 × 2
lattice slats to 31". Position them so they overhang the posts by 1
1/2" at both ends and fasten slats to posts with 2 1/2" deck screws
driven through pilot holes.
Make the arches using a cardboard template to trace the shape
onto a 2 × 8. Cut out the arch with a jigsaw or bandsaw and test-fit
the arch between the post pairs. Make necessary adjustments and
cut the remaining arches. Sand the cut edges smooth.
Fasten the arches to the posts using 2 1/2" deck screws. First,
position arches so they are flush with the outside faces of the posts
and, at each end, drill an angled pilot hole upward through the
bottom of the arch and into the post.
Cut eight vertical slats to a rough length of 54" (first, mark slats 7"
from each post to represent the outside edges of the vertical lattice
slats). Mark the top ends of the slats to match the arches by holding
each slat on its reference marks. Cut the curved ends and test-fit the
slats. Hold each slat in place against the arch (mark bottom for
length), then cut them to length.
Install vertical slats with 3" deck screws driven down through tops
of the arches and 2 1/2" deck screws driven through the lowest
horizontal slats. Make sure all screwheads are countersunk.
Build the back lattice screens by cutting 2 × 2 slats to length at
75", for a 1 1/2" overhang at each end. Position the slats on layout
marks, drill pilot holes, and fasten the slats to the posts with 2 1/2"
deck screws.
Finish the structure. Sand any rough areas with a random-orbit
sander. Wipe down the project, and then apply a coat of exterior
wood sealant/protectant.
PATIO ENCLOSURE

I f you like the openness and plentiful light of a patio but want
more protection from rain and strong winds, this stylish,
contemporary patio shelter may be just what you’re looking for.
Designed as a cross between an open-air arbor or pergola and an
enclosed three-season porch, this patio structure has clear glazing
panels on its roof and sides, allowing plenty of sunlight through
while buffering the elements and even blocking harmful UV rays.
The roof of the patio shelter is framed with closely spaced 2 × 4
rafters to create the same light-filtering effects of a slatted arbor
roof. The rafters are supported by a doubled-up 2 × 10 beam and 4
× 6 timber posts. Because the shelter is attached to the house, the
posts are set on top of concrete foundation piers, or footings, that
extend below the frost line. This prevents any shifting of the
structure in areas where the ground freezes in winter.
The patio shelter’s side panels cut down on wind while
providing a degree of privacy screening. Their simple construction
means you can easily alter the dimensions or locations of the panels
to suit your own plans. In the project shown, each side has two
glazing panels with a 3 1/2-inch space in between, for airflow. If
desired, you can use a single sheet of glazing across the entire side
section. The glazing is held in place with wood strips and screws so
they can be removed for seasonal cleaning.
Building against a solid wall and not in front of a patio door
makes the space inside this contemporary shelter much more
usable. The corrugated roof panels (see Resources, page 553)
made of clear polycarbonate allow light to enter while keeping the
elements out.
Slats of white oak sandwich clear polycarbonate panels to create
walls that block the wind without blocking light and views.
Patio Enclosure Plans

Plan your own patio shelter based on the requirements set by the local building
code. Your city’s building department or a qualified building professional can help you
with the critical structural specifications, such as the size and depth of the concrete
post footings, the sizing of beam members, and the overall roof construction. The
building department will help make sure your shelter is suitable for the local weather
conditions (particularly wind and snow loads).

Cutting List
Key A
Part Post
No. 2
Size 3 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 144"
Material 4 × 6 treated pine

Key B
Part Beam member
No. 2
Size 1 1/2 × 9 1/4 × 120"*
Material 2 × 10 treated pine

Key C
Part Rafter
No. 16
Size 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 120"*
Material 2 × 4 pine

Key D
Part Ledger
No. 1
Size 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 144"
Material 2 × 6 treated pine

Key E
Part Back post
No. 2
Size 1 1/2 × 1 1/2 × 96"*
Material 2 × 2 pine

Key F
Part Slat cleat
No. 4
Size 1 1/2 × 1 1/2 × 60"
Material 2 × 2 pine
Key G
Part Back post cap
No. 2
Size 3/4 × 1 1/2 × 96"*
Material 1 × 2 pine

Key H
Part Slat cleat cap
No. 4
Size 3/4 × 1 1/2 × 60"

Material 1 × 2 pine

Key I
Part Beam blocks
No. 3
Size 3 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 8"
Material 4 × 4 pine

Key J
Part Purlin
No. 14
Size 1 1/2 × 1 1/2 × 120"
Material 2 × 2 pine

Key K
Part Roof panel
No. 6
Size 1/4 × 26 × 96"

Material Corrugated polycarbonate

Key L
Part Side panel
No. 4
Size 1/4 × 36 × 58"
Material Clear polycarbonate

Key M
Part Slat
No. 18
Size 3/4 × 3 1/2 × 80"*

Material White oak

Key N
Part Post base
No. 2
Size 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 3 1/2"
Material

*Size listed is prior to final trimming

Tools & Materials

Chalk line
4-ft. level
Tape measure
Plumb bob
Mason’s string
Digging tools
Concrete mixing tools
Circular saw
Ratchet wrench
Line level
Reciprocating saw or handsaw
Drill with bits
Finish application tools
Gravel
12"-dia. concrete tube forms
Concrete mix
5/8"-dia. J-bolts
3/8 × 4" corrosion resistant lag screws
Flashing
Silicone caulk
Corrosion-resistant metal post bases and hardware
Lumber
Corrosion-resistant 16d and 8d common nails
1/2"-dia. corrosion-resistant lag bolts and washers
Exterior wood glue or construction adhesive
Corrosion-resistant framing anchors (for rafters)
Deck screws (1 1/2, 3")
Polycarbonate roofing panels
Clear polycarbonate panels
Closure strips
Roofing screws with EPDM washers
Roofing adhesive/sealant
Wood finishing materials
Neoprene weatherstripping
Scrap lumber
Exterior wood stain
Stakes
Eye and ear protection
Hammer
Caulk gun
Table saw, router, or circular saw
Work gloves, plastic gloves
The roofing and side glazing panels of the patio shelter are made with tough
polycarbonate materials. The corrugated roofing panels allow up to 90% light
transmission while blocking virtually 100% of harmful UV rays. The flat side panels
offer the transparency of glass but are lighter and much stronger than glass. Also
shown is: wall flashing designed to be tucked under siding; closure strips that fit
between the 2 × 2 purlins and the corrugated roof panels; self-sealing screws and
polycarbonate caulk.
 HOW TO BUILD A PATIO ENCLOSURE

Mark the layout for the ledger board on the house wall. Lay out
the post footing locations in the patio area. To mark the cutout for the
ledger board, include the width of the ledger board, plus the height of
the roofing, plus 1 1/2" for the flashing. The length of the cutout
should be 1" longer than the length of the ledger board (12 ft. as
shown). Plumb down from the ends of the ledger, then measure in to
mark the locations of the post centers. At each of these points, run a
perpendicular string line from the house out to about 2 ft. beyond the
post locations. Set up a third string line, perpendicular to the first
two, to mark the centers of the posts. Plumb down from the string
line intersections and mark the post centers on the ground with
stakes.
Dig a hole for a concrete tube form at each post location following
the local building code for the footing depth. Add 6" of gravel and
tamp it down. Position the tube forms so they are plumb and extend
at least 2" above the ground. Backfill around them with soil and
compact thoroughly.
Fill the tube forms with concrete and screed it level with the tops
of the forms. At each post-center location, embed a J-bolt into the
wet concrete so it extends the recommended distance above the top
of the form. Let the concrete cure.
Cut out the house siding for the ledger board using a circular
saw. Cut only through the siding, leaving the wall sheathing.Note: If
the sheathing is fiberboard instead of plywood, you may have to
remove the fiberboard; consult your local building department.
Replace any damaged building paper covering the sheathing.
Stain the wood parts before you begin installing the shelter closure
strips and panels. We used a black, semitransparent deck and siding
stain.
Apply a protective finish to the wood slats as desired. We used
a semitransparent deck stain.
Install the ledger. First, slip corrugated roof flashing or metal roof
flashing behind the siding above the ledger cutout so the vertical
flange extends at least 3" above the bottom of the siding. Cut the
ledger board to length. Fasten the ledger to the wall using 3/8 × 4"
lag screws driven through counterbored pilot holes at each wall-stud
location. Seal over the screw heads and counterbores with silicone
caulk.
Anchor the post bases to the concrete footing, securing them
with the base manufacturer’s recommended hardware. Make sure
the bases are aligned with each other and are perpendicular to the
house wall.
Cut off the bottom ends of the posts so they are perfectly
square. Set each post in its base and hold it plumb. Fasten the post
to the base using the manufacturer’s recommended fasteners. Brace
the posts with temporary bracing. Note: You will cut the posts to
length in a later step.
Cut a pattern rafter from 2 × 4 lumber using the desired roof slope
to find the angle cut for the top end. Angle the bottom end as desired
for decorative effect. Set the rafter in position so its top end is even
with the top of the ledger and its bottom end passes along the side of
a post. Mark along the bottom edge of the rafter onto the post.
Repeat to mark the other post. Use a string and line level to make
sure the post marks are level with each other.
Cut the inner beam member to length from 2 × 10 lumber, then
bevel the top edge to follow the roof slope. Position the board so its
top edge is on the post markings, and it overhangs the posts equally
at both ends (12" of overhang is shown). Tack the board in place with
16d nails.
Cut the outer beam member to length from 2 × 10 lumber. Bevel
the top edge following the roof slope, and remove enough material
so that the bottom edges of the two beam members will be level with
each other. Tack the member in place with nails.
Anchor the beam members together and to the posts with pairs of
1/2"-dia. lag bolts and washers. Cut the posts off flush with the tops
of the beam members using a handsaw or reciprocating saw.
Trim the cutoff post pieces to length and use them as blocking
between the beam members. Position the blocks evenly spaced
between the posts and fasten them to both beam members with glue
and 16d nails. Note: Diagonal bracing between the posts and beam
may be recommended or required in some areas; consult your local
building department.
Mark the rafter layout onto the ledger and beam. As shown here,
the rafters are spaced 9 1/2" apart on center. The two outer rafters
should be flush with the ends of the ledger and beam.
Install metal framing anchors onto the ledger for securing the top
rafter ends using the anchor manufacturer’s recommended
fasteners. Use the pattern rafter or a block to position the anchors so
the rafters will be flush with the top of the ledger.
Use the pattern rafter to mark the remaining rafters and then cut
them. Install the rafters one at a time. Fasten the top ends to the
metal anchor using the recommended fasteners. Fasten the bottom
ends to both beam members by toenailing one 8d nail through each
rafter side and into the beam member.
Install the 2 × 2 purlins perpendicular to the rafters using 3" deck
screws. Position the first purlin a few inches from the bottom ends of
the rafters. Space the remaining purlins 24" on center. The ends of
the purlins should be flush with the outside faces of the outer rafters.
Add 2 × 2 blocking between the purlins along the outer rafters,
and fasten them with 3" deck screws. This blocking will support the
vertical closure strips for the roof panels.
Starting at one side of the roof, install the roof panel closure strips
over the purlins using the manufacturer’s recommended fasteners.
Begin every run of strips from the same side of the roof, so the
ridges in the strips will be aligned.
Add vertical closure strips over the 2 × 2 purlin blocking to fill in
between the horizontal strips.
Position the first roofing panel along one side edge of the roof.
The inside edge of the panel should fall over a rafter. If necessary,
trim the panel to length or width following the manufacturer’s
recommendations.
Drill pilot holes, and fasten the first panel to the closure strips with
the recommended type of screw and rubber washer. Fasten the
panel at the peak (top) of every other corrugation. Drive the screws
down carefully, stopping when the washer contacts the panel but is
not compressed. This allows for thermal expansion of the panel.
Apply a bead of the recommended adhesive/sealant (usually
supplied by the panel manufacturer) along the last trough of the
roofing panel. Set the second panel into place, overlapping the last
troughs on both panels. Fasten the second panel. Install the
remaining panels using the same procedure. Caulk the seam
between the roof panels and the roof flashing.
To create channels for the side glazing panels, mill a rabbet into
each of the eight vertical 2 × 2 cleats. Consult the glazing
manufacturer for the recommended channel size, making sure to
provide space for thermal expansion of the panels. Mill the rabbets
using a table saw, router, or circular saw. Stop the rabbets so the
bottom edges of the panels will be even with, or slightly above, the
bottom edge of the lowest side slat.
Position a cleat on each post at the desired height, with the cleat
centered from side to side on the post. The rabbeted corner should
face inside the shelter. Fasten the cleats to the posts with 3" deck
screws. Fasten two more cleats to the house wall so they are aligned
and level with the post cleats.
Cut the side slats to length to fit between the posts and the house
wall. Mark the slat layouts onto the outside faces of the cleats, and
install the slats with 1 1/2" deck screws or exterior trim-head screws.
Space the slats 3 1/2" apart or as desired.

Tip
If you do not have wall flashing designed to work with the roof profile, place closure
strips upside down onto the roof panels and run another bead of adhesive/sealant over
the tops of the strips. Work the flashing down and embed it into the sealant. Seal along
all exposed edges of the ledger with silicone caulk.
Fasten the middle cleats to the slats on each side, leaving about 3
1/2" of space between the cleats (or as desired). The cleats should
overhang the top and bottom slats by 1 1/2" (or as desired).
Cut the cap strips for the glazing panels from 1 × 2 material (or rip
down strips from the 1 × 4 slat material). Position each cap over a
cleat and drill evenly spaced pilot holes through the cap and into the
cleat. Make sure the holes go into the solid (non-rabbeted) portion of
the cleat. Drill counterbores, too (left). Drive screws to attach the
post caps (right).

Tip
Used for decorative accent slats on this patio shelter, white oak is a traditional
exterior wood that was employed for boatbuilding as well as outdoor furnishings.
Although it requires no finishing, we coated the white oak with a dark, penetrating
wood stain to bring out the grain.
Trim the side glazing panels to size following the manufacturer’s
directions. Apply neoprene or EPDM stripping or packing to the side
edges of the panels. Fit each panel into its cleat frame, cover the
glazing edges with the 1 × 2 caps, and secure the caps with 1 1/2"
deck screws. Note: If the glazing comes with a protective film,
remove the film during this step as appropriate and make sure the
panel is oriented for full UV protection.
Option: Add a 2 × 4 decorative cap on the outside face of each post.
Center the cap side-to-side on the post and fasten it with 16d casing
nails.
PATIO ARBOR/TRELLIS ENCLOSURE

A n arbor is an overhead system of beams, usually supported by

posts, that provides shade and is often used to train climbing
plants. Arbors can be built as independent yard structures, but they
often are combined with a trellis—a lattice wall attached to the side
of the arbor (pages 356 to 357). The combined arbor-and-trellis is a
traditional, attractive outdoor structure.
Build your arbor structure so it is freestanding—do not attach it
directly to your house. A permanent structure that is attached to a
house must meet more code requirements than freestanding
structures, and there is more risk of structural failure. The arbor
featured in this section is made with four-post construction set on
sturdy concrete footings. Because it is freestanding, the footings
did not need to extend below the frost line. Very small garden
arbors can be built with techniques and materials similar to those
used for the project shown, but they may not require post footings.
Arbor structures make a dramatic visual statement when
constructed over an ordinary patio. They also help cut down on wind
and sun and create a more pleasant outdoor environment.

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Mason’s string
Line level
Torpedo level
Carpenter’s square
Speed square
Drill
Circular saw
Straight edge
Ratchet-socket set
Ladder
Shovel
Mortar box
Concrete
Isolation boards
Cedar framing lumber
Post anchors
Carriage bolts
Lag screws
Rafter ties
Deck screws or 6d galvanized nails
J-bolts with nuts and washers

Freestanding Arbors
An arbor does not need to be attached to your house to function as a
patio shelter. In fact, more arbors are built as freestanding units than as
attached structures. Because they are so versatile you can locate them
so they cast shade only on a portion of a patio, or you can cover the
entire area.
The arbor shown here is relatively small. You can easily adapt the
design to different sizes, but don’t space the posts more than 8 ft. apart.
If you want to build a larger arbor, add additional posts between the
corner posts. Before you begin construction, check your local building
code for footing depth requirements and setback restrictions.
The basics of building a freestanding arbor are as follows. First, lay
out the location of the posts using stakes and string. Make sure the
layout is square by measuring from corner to corner and adjusting the
layout until these diagonal measurements are equal. Dig postholes at
the corners to the required depth, using a posthole digger and fill each
hole with 6" of gravel.
Next, position the posts in the holes. To brace them in a plumb
position, tack support boards to the posts on adjoining faces. Adjust the
posts as necessary until they’re plumb. Drive a stake into the ground,
flush against the base of each 2 × 4. Drive deck screws through the
stakes, into the 2 × 4s.
Mix one bag of dry concrete to anchor each post. Immediately check
to make sure the posts are plumb, and adjust as necessary until the
concrete begins to harden. Let the concrete dry at least 24 hours.
Measure, mark, and cut all the lumber for the arbor. Cut a 3 × 3"
notch off the bottom corner of each tie beam, a 2 × 2" notch off the
bottom corner of each 2 × 4 rafter, and a 1 × 1" notch off the bottom
corner of each cross strip. Position a tie beam against the outside edge
of a pair of posts, 7 ft. above the ground. Position the beam to extend
about 1 ft. past the post on each side. Level the beam, then clamp it into
place with wood screw clamps. Drill pilot holes and attach the tie beam
to the posts with 3" lag screws.
Use a line level to mark the opposite pair of posts at the same height
as the installed tie beam. Attach the remaining tie beam. Cut off the
posts so they’re level with the tops of the tie beams.
Next, attach the rafters to the tops of the tie beams, using rafter ties
and galvanized nails. Beginning 6" from the ends of the tie beams,
space the rafters 2 ft. apart, with the ends extending past each tie beam
by 1 ft. Position a cross strip across the top of the rafters, beginning 6"
from the ends of the rafters. Center the strip so it extends past the
outside rafters by about 6". Drill pilot holes through the cross strip and
into the rafters. Attach the cross strip with galvanized screws. Add the
remaining cross strips, spacing them 1 ft. apart. Finish your arbor by
applying wood sealer/protectant.
This version of a freestanding post-and-slat arbor is a 5 × 5-ft. cedar structure with
an extended overhead.
 HOW TO BUILD AN ARBOR

Create footings for the arbor posts by digging a hole at least twice
the size of the post bottom and at least 12" deep. Fill with concrete,
and set a J-bolt in each concrete footing. We positioned the J-bolts
so the edges of the posts are flush with the patio.
Allow the footings to harden for at least one day, then attach the
post anchor hardware to the J-bolts. Cut and install the arbor posts—
for most arbors, 4 × 4 posts are large enough. Cut posts longer than
the planned height, and brace them with 2 × 4 braces so they are
plumb. Leave the braces in place until the beams and rafters are
secured in position.
Use a square to mark the cutting lines for the posts at the
desired height: mark the height of the arbor onto the posts at one
end, then use a line level to transfer the height mark onto the posts
at the other end. With a square, mark cutting lines on all four sides of
each post. Trim the posts at the cutting lines using a handsaw. Have
a helper steady the post from below while you cut. Note: You may
use a power saw, like a cordless circular saw, to cut off the post tops,
but only if your ladder provides enough elevation that you can work
from above the cutting line.
Cut beam members from 2 × 8 stock. Because we used two beam
members each at the front and back of the project, we cut four beam
members. To create a 6" overhang at each side, we cut the beam
members 12" longer than the distance between the outside edges of
the posts. Mark all beam members with a carpenter’s square, then
gang-cut them with a circular saw and a straightedge.
Turn beams on edge, and mark locations for the rafters. Rafters
should be no more than 24" apart. Start by marking the outermost
rafters—our plan called for a rafter at the inside and outside edge of
each post. Don't forget to include the beam overhang in the layout.
Fasten the beam members to the posts at the front and back of
the arbor. Screw a guide strip securely to the top of each post, then
position the beam members and hold them in place temporarily by
driving a screw down through the guide strip and into the top of each
beam member. When installing beam pairs, as shown here, use a
pair of carriage bolts with washers and nuts at each beam/post joint.
Attach a 1/2" bit with a bit extension to your drill, and drill holes for
the carriage bolts through both the beam members and the post.
Pound 1/2"-diameter carriage bolts through the holes. Carriage
bolts should be 1/2" to 1" longer than the combined widths of the
outer rafters and the beam. For this project, we used a 7"-long bolt.
Slip a washer and nut onto the end of the carriage bolt and tighten
with a ratchet. Remove the guide strip.
Measure and mark 2 × 6 rafters to fit on top of the beams,
perpendicular to the house. For best appearance, rafters should
overhang the beams by at least 6". Cut with a circular saw. For
added visual appeal, mark an angled cut of about 30° at the end of
one rafter, then cut off with a circular saw. Use the rafter as a
template to transfer the angle to the other rafters.
Install the rafters on top of the beams at the rafter layout marks.
Position the rafters so the angled ends are at the front of the project,
with the shorter side resting on the beam. Use metal rafter ties,
mounted to the beams, and deck screws to attach the rafters.
Option: Because the metal rafter ties can be quite visible in the
finished product, you may prefer to toenail the rafters in place with
16d galvanized nails.
Mark the posts and beams for crossbraces. From the inside
corner of each post/beam joint, mark an equal distance (about 18")
on the beam and the post. For crossbraces that fit between rafters,
measure from the post mark to the top of the rafter, following the line
created between the post mark and the beam mark. For crossbraces
that fit flush with the post and the beam, measure from the post mark
to the beam mark for the inside dimension of the crossbrace.
Mark the inside dimensions for the crossbraces onto a piece of
lumber of the same type as the posts (here, 4 × 4). Use a square or
triangle to draw 45° cutting lines away from each end point of the
inside dimension. Cut along these lines with a circular saw to make
the crossbraces.
Install the crossbraces. Tack the crossbraces in position, then
attach them with 3/8" × 4" lag screws. If the crossbrace is fitted
between the rafters, drive the lag screws through the counterbored
pilot holes in the rafter and into the cross brace at the top. Attach
with lag screws at each joint. Drive lag screws through the
counterbored pilot holes that are perpendicular to the post or rafter.
Install the arbor slats on top of the rafters. We used 2 × 2 cedar
spaced at 4" intervals. Include an overhang of at least 6". Attach the
arbor slats with 2 1/2" deck screws driven down through the slats and
into the rafters.
ADDING A TRELLIS TO AN ARBOR

A dd a lattice-panel trellis to an arbor structure for a more

decorative appearance. Using manufactured lattice panels and
lattice molding and hanging the panels with metal fence-panel
hangers makes the job inexpensive and quick. Or, you can build
your own lattice and frame. Plant climbing-type plants and train
them up the trellis to embellish the arbor-and-trellis.

Lattice panels are used to create the trellis portion of an arbor-and-

trellis. Most building centers carry cedar, pressure-treated, and vinyl
lattice in 2 × 8-ft. and 4 × 8-ft. panels. Standard lattice panels are 3/4"
thick. For a more customized look, you can build your own lattice
panels from exterior-rated lumber.
 Tools & Materials
Pencil
Tape measure
Circular saw
Chalk line
Hammer
Clamps
Drill
4 × 8 lattice panels
Lattice molding
Galvanized brads
Fence brackets
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO ADD A TRELLIS TO AN ARBOR

If the planned trellis is wider than 4 ft., you will need additional
support posts. Install posts using the same materials and techniques
used for the corner posts of the arbor. If possible, install the posts so
the lattice panels on either side of each post will be equal in size.
Measure the openings between the posts to determine the sizes
for the lattice panels. Generally, panels should be sized so they are
installed below the crossbraces between posts. Leave a few inches
of open space beneath the panels at ground level. Mark the
locations of the panel tops onto the posts using a level to make sure
the tops are even.
Subtract 11/2" from the frame opening dimensions, and cut the
lattice panels to size. To cut lattice panels, sandwich each panel
between two boards near the cutting line to prevent the lattice from
separating. Clamp the boards and the panel together and cut with a
circular saw.
Miter-cut 2 × 2 lattice molding to frame the lattice panels. The
finished width of the panel should be 1/2" narrower than the opening.
Nail one vertical and one horizontal frame piece together with
galvanized brads. Set the lattice panel into the channels, and attach
the other frame pieces. Secure the lattice panels into the molding by
driving brads through the molding and into the lattice at 12" intervals.
Attach three fence brackets to the posts, evenly spaced, on each
side of the opening using 4d galvanized nails. On the top two
brackets, bend the bottom and top flanges flat against the post. Bend
all outside flanges flat, away from the post, to allow installation of the
lattice panel.
Set the panels in the brackets, and bend the hanger flanges back
to their original positions. Drive 1" galvanized nails through the
flanges of the fence hangers and into the frames of the lattice
panels.
UNDER-DECK ENCLOSURE

S econd-story walk-out decks can be a mixed blessing. On top,

you have an open, sun-filled perch with a commanding view
of the landscape. The space below the deck, however, is all too
often a dark and chilly nook that is functionally unprotected from
water runoff. As a result, an under-deck area often ends up as
wasted space or becomes a holding area for seasonal storage items
or the less desirable outdoor furniture.
But there’s an easy way to reclaim all that convenient outdoor
space—by installing a weatherizing ceiling system that captures
runoff water from the deck above, leaving the area below dry
enough to convert into a versatile outdoor room. You can even
enclose the space to create a screened-in patio room.
The under-deck system featured in this project is designed for
do-it-yourself installation. Its components are made to fit almost
any standard deck and come in three sizes to accommodate
different deck-joist spacing (for 12", 16", and 24" on-center
spacing). Once the system is in place, the under-deck area is
effectively “dried in”, and you can begin adding amenities like
overhead lighting, ceiling fans, and speakers to complete the
outdoor room environment.
The system works by capturing water that falls through the
decking above and channeling it to the outside edge of the deck.
Depending on your plans, you can let the water fall from the ceiling
panels along the deck’s edge, or you can install a standard rain
gutter and downspout to direct the water to a single exit point on
the ground.
Made of weather-resistant vinyl, this under-deck system creates
an attractive, maintenance-free ceiling that keeps the space below
dry throughout the seasons.

Tools & Materials

4-ft. level
Tape measure
Chalk line
Caulking gun
Drill
Pencil
Aviation snips
Work gloves
Hacksaw (for optional rain gutter)
Under-deck ceiling system
Waterproof acrylic caulk
1" stainless steel screws
Rain gutter system (optional)
Eye and ear protection
 DESIGN TIPS

This under-deck system (see Resources, page 553) consists of

four main parts: The joist rails mount to the deck joists and help
secure the other components. The collector panels (A) span the joist
cavity to capture water falling through the deck above. Water flows to
the sides of the panels where it falls through gaps in the joist rails (B)
and into the joist gutters (C) (for interior joists) and boundary gutters
(for outer joists). The gutters carry the water to the outside edge of
the deck.
For a finished look, paint the decking lumber that will be exposed
after the system is installed. Typically, the lower portion of the ledger
board (attached to the house) and the outer rim joist (at the outer
edge of the deck) remain exposed.
Consider surrounding architectural elements when you select a
system for sealing off the area below your deck. Here, the under-
deck system is integrated with the deck and deck stairs both visually
and functionally.
 HOW TO INSTALL AN UNDER-DECK
SYSTEM

Check the undersides of several deck joists to make sure the

structure is level. This is important for establishing the proper slope
for effective water flow.
How bad is it? If your deck is not level, you must compensate for
this when setting the ceiling slope. To determine the amount of
correction that’s needed, hold one end of the level against a joist and
tilt the level until it reads perfectly level. Measure the distance from
the joist to the free end of the level. Then, divide this measurement
by the length of the level. For example, if the distance is 1/4" and the
level is 4 ft. long, the deck is out of level by 1/16" per foot.
To establish the slope for the ceiling system, mark the ends of
the joists closest to the house: Measure up from the bottom 1" for
every 10 ft. of joist length (or approximately 1/8" per ft.) and make a
mark. Mark both sides of each intermediate joist and the inside faces
of the outer joists.
Create each slope reference line using a chalk line: Hold one end
of the chalk line at the mark made in Step 3, and hold the other end
at the bottom edge of the joist where it meets the rim joist at the
outside edge of the deck. Snap a reference line on all of the joists.
Install vinyl flashing along the ledger board in the joist cavities.
Attach the flashing with 1" stainless steel screws. Caulk along the
top edges of the flashing where it meets the ledger and both joists
using quality, waterproof acrylic caulk. Also caulk the underside of
the flashing for an extra layer of protection.
Begin installing the joist rails, starting 1" away from the ledger.
Position each rail with its bottom edge on the chalk line, and fasten it
to the joist at both ends with 1" stainless steel screws; then add one
or two screws in between. Avoid over-driving the screws and
deforming the rail; leaving a little room for movement is best.
Install the remaining rails on each joist face, leaving a 1 1/2"
(minimum) to 2" (maximum) gap between rails. Install rails along
both sides of each interior joist and along the insides of each outside
joist. Trim the final rail in each row as needed using aviation snips.
Measure the full length of each joist cavity, and cut a collector
panel 1/4" shorter than the cavity. This allows room for expansion of
the panels. For narrower joist cavities, trim the panel to width
following the manufacturer’s sizing recommendations.
Scribe and trim the collector panels for a tight fit against the
ledger board. Hold a carpenter’s pencil flat against the ledger, and
move the pencil along the board to transfer its contours to the panel.
Trim the panel along the scribed line.
Trim the corners of the collector panels as needed to
accommodate joist hangers and other hardware. This may be
necessary only at the house side of the joist cavity; at the outer end,
the 1/4" expansion gap should clear any hardware.
Install the collector panels, starting at the house. With the textured
side of the panel facing down, insert one side edge into the joist rails,
and then push up gently on the opposite side until it fits into the
opposing rails. When fully installed, the panels should be tight
against the ledger and have a 1/4" gap at the rim joist.
Prepare each joist gutter by cutting it 1/4" shorter than the joist it
will attach to (if the joists rest on a structural beam, see Variation, on
page 364). On the house end of each gutter, trim the corners of the
flanges at 45°. This helps the gutter fit tightly to the ledger.
Cut four or five 1/8" tabs into the bottom surface at the outside ends
of the gutters. This helps promote the drainage of water over the
edge of the gutter.
Attach self-adhesive foam weatherstrip (available from the
manufacturer) at the home-end of each joist gutter. Run a bead of
caulk along the foam strip to water-seal it to the gutter. The weather
strip serves as a water dam.
Install each joist gutter by spreading its sides open slightly while
pushing the gutter up onto the joist rails until it snaps into place. The
gutter should fit snugly against the collector panels. The gutter’s
home-end should be tight against the ledger, with the 1/4" expansion
gap at the rim joist.
Prepare the boundary gutters following the same steps used for
the joist gutters. Install each boundary gutter by slipping its long,
outside flange behind the joist rails and pushing up until the gutter
snaps into place. Install the boundary gutters working from the house
side to the outer edge of the deck.
Run a bead of color-matched caulk along the joint where the
collector panels meet the ledger board. This is for decorative
purposes only and is not required to prevent water intrusion.
If collector panels are misshapen because the joist spacing is too
tight, free the panel within the problem area, then trim about 1/8” from
the side edge of the panel. Reset the panel in the rails. If necessary,
trim the panel edge again in slight increments until the panel fits
properly.

Working Around Beams

For decks that have joists resting on top of a structural beam, stop the joist gutters
and boundary gutters 1 1/2" short of the beam. Install a standard rain gutter along the
house-side of the beam to catch the water as it exits the system gutters (see pages
362 to 363). (On the opposite side of the beam, begin new runs of joist gutters that are
tight against the beam and stop 1/4" short of the rim joist. The joist rails and collector
panels should clear the beam and can be installed as usual.) Or, you can simply leave
the overhang area alone if you do not need water runoff protection below it.
RUNOFF GUTTERS

A basic gutter system for a square or rectangular deck includes

a straight run of gutter channel with a downspout at one end.
Prefabricated vinyl or aluminum gutter parts are ideal for this
application. Gutter channels are commonly available in 10-ft. and
20-ft. lengths, so you might be able to use a single channel without
seams. Otherwise, you can join sections of channel with special
connectors. Shop around for the best type of hanger for your
situation. If there’s limited backing to support the back side of the
channel or to fasten into, you may have to use strap-type hangers
that can be secured to framing above the gutter.

Runoff gutters are installed at the ends of the under-deck channels

to capture runoff water and redirect it away from the enclosed area
through downspouts.

Tools & Materials

Chalk line
Drill
Hanger clips
Hacksaw
Pain
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO INSTALL AN UNDER-DECK
RUNOFF GUTTER

Snap a chalk line onto the beam or other supporting surface to

establish the slope of the main gutter run. The line will correspond to
the top edge of the gutter channel. The ideal slope is 1/16" per foot.
For example, with a 16-ft.-long gutter, the beginning is 1" higher than
the end. The downspout should be located just inside the low end of
the gutter channel. Mark the beam at both ends to create the desired
slope, then snap a chalk line between the marks. The high end of the
gutter should be just below the boundary gutter in the ceiling system.
Install a downspout outlet near the end of the gutter run so the top
of the gutter is flush with the slope line. If you plan to enclose the
area under the deck, choose an inconspicuous location for the
downspout, away from traffic areas.
Install hanger clips (depending on the type of hangers or support
clips you use, it is often best to install them before installing the
gutter channel). Attach a hanger every 24" so the top of the gutter
will hang flush with the slope line.
Cut sections of gutter channel to size using a hacksaw. Attach an
end cap to the beginning of the main run, then fit the channel into the
downspout outlet (allowing for expansion, if necessary) and secure
the gutter in place.

Tip
Gutters come in several material types, including PVC, enameled steel and copper.
In most cases you should try to match the surrounding trim materials, but using a more
decorative material for contrast can be effective.
Join sections of channel together, if necessary, for long runs
using connectors. Install a short section of channel with an end cap
on the opposite side of the downspout outlet. Paint the area where
the downspout will be installed if it is unpainted.
Cut the downspout piping to length and fasten an elbow fitting to
its bottom end. Attach the downspout to the downspout outlet, then
secure the downspout to a post or other vertical support using
hangers (inset).
Cut a drainpipe to run from the downspout elbow to a convenient
drainage point. Position the pipe so it directs water away from the
house and any traffic areas. Attach the pipe to the downspout elbow.
Add a splash block, if desired.

Routing Drainpipes
You may have to get a little creative when routing the downspout drain in an
enclosed porch or patio. Shown here, two elbows allow for a 90° turn of the drainpipe.
SUN PORCH

A sun porch, a sunroom, a three-season porch, a greenhouse, a

hothouse, an orangerie, a conservatory . . . these names are
not precisely interchangeable but all refer to a similar type of room.
The common element all types share is that their walls and usually
their roofs are made of clear panel glazing that allows light in and
traps it, raising the ambient room temperature to more comfortable
levels in cooler times of year. Some of these structures are designed
for gardening-related activities; others are meant for enjoyment or
entertainment. Some are freestanding, others are attached to a
house.
If it is custom-built for you by a professional contractor, a
sunroom can be quite expensive. But there is another option: a
sunroom in a box. You can have a complete, do-it-yourself
sunroom kit delivered to your home in cardboard boxes. A good
deal of assembly is required, of course, but with a few basic tools
and a helper, most people with basic DIY skills can complete the
job in a weekend.
The key features of this sun porch (manufactured by SunPorch
Structures Inc., see Resources page 553) are its easy installation
and its versatility. First, it’s designed to install right on top of an
existing concrete patio slab or a wood deck, eliminating the
extensive site-prep work required with a custom project. If you
don’t have a patio or deck in place, you can build an inexpensive
foundation with landscape timbers to support the sunroom
structure, then create a floor inside using brick pavers, stone, wood
decking tiles, or other suitable material. The sunroom manufacturer
and your local building department can help you with the planning
and construction details.
 The sunroom’s versatility is apparent in both its design and use.
Its modular construction allows you to specify the height, width,
and length of the structure to fit your needs and your house. Other
modifications can be made at the factory to accommodate special
installation requirements, such as installing the room to fit against
the roof eave of your house or even slightly above the eave. The
standard room design includes two matching end walls and a front
wall. If your sunroom will fit into a corner where two house walls
meet, simply order the room without one of the end walls. The
sizes of end walls also can be adjusted to fit other house
configurations.
Operable and removable windows make this sunroom versatile
to use. In cooler months, all the windows can be closed against the
cold to keep the sun’s heat inside. As the weather warms up, you
can open either the top or bottom window sash to capture the
breezes. And in the summer, you can take the windows out
completely to convert the sunroom into a fully screened patio
room.

Check In With Your Building Department

It’s up to you to gain legal approval for your sunroom project. Contact
your city’s building department to learn what its rules are. Some
municipalities require permits and inspections for DIY sunrooms, while
others exclude structures that are installed over existing patios or decks
and do not change the home’s footprint. In any case, you should also
consult with a qualified building professional to make sure your patio,
deck, or other foundation can safely support a sunroom.
A DIY sunroom kit comes with all of the parts precut and predrilled for your own
custom design. Assembling the kit is a relatively easy task that most couples can
accomplish in a weekend.
Commercial-grade, lightweight glazing, and predrilled aluminum
frame parts are the key components that make this sunroom kit
lightweight and durable enough for shipping and also easy to
assemble. Sunrooms can be perfectly acceptable spaces for evening
activities, if you equip them with light fixtures (left).
 SUN PORCH KIT ACCESSORIES

Skylight shades give you control over light and heat coming
through the roof panels. These 2-in-1 shades have a solid reflective
panel that blocks most of the sun’s light and heat and a translucent
panel that blocks only half of the sunlight to reduce glare and heat
gain while letting light filter through.

Precisely fitted wall shades are convenient for reducing glare and
heat gain right where you need it. They’re also great for adding
privacy when and where you want it without blocking all of your
sunroom views.
Optional roof vents allow hot air to escape and help to flush the
interior of the sunroom with fresh air. Adjustable covers let you
control the rate of air flow. The opening and closing mechanism is
easy to operate from inside the sunporch.
 OPTIONS FOR ATTACHING A SUN PORCH
TO YOUR HOUSE

Attach the ledger directly to the wall if there is no eave overhang

or if there is at least 6" of clear working space between the top of the
ledger and the bottom of the eaves.
If the maximum height of the sun porch brings it up against or
within 6" of the bottom of the eave overhang, extend the fascia on
the eave downward and fill in with boards or siding between the
cornice and the back post for the sun porch.
The ledger for the sun porch can be attached directly to the fascia
board as long as the highest point of the sun-porch roof remains
slightly lower than the roof covering. Be sure to attach the ledger so
the lag screws hit into the ends of the rafter tails.
If the sun porch is slightly taller than the roof eaves, you can add
a ledger that’s taller than the fascia, but it cannot extend more than a
couple of inches higher. Fill in the open area beneath the roof
covering created at the side using a full-width wood wedge and
caulk. The roof covering must retain a slight slope with no swales.
 PREPARING THE INSTALLATION SITE

When attaching a sun porch directly to your exterior wall, install

2 × 6 or 2 × 8 edges and hang the roof support beams from it. Also
install 2 × 4 vertical nailers beneath the ends of the edges for
attaching the walls to the house. Ledgers also may be mounted to
rafter ends in the eave area (see previous page).
Sun porch kits with non-glass panels can be mounted on
practically any hard surface because they are light enough that they
do not require a reinforced floor. You do need to make sure the floor
is level, however (see page 375), and that the base channels you lay
out create square corners.
 THE BENEFITS OF ROOF VENTILATION

Without roof vents, hot air is trapped in the sunroom, making it

uncomfortable for users and inhospitable to plants.
A single roof vent creates an escape route for hot air, allowing
you to regulate the temperature and keep the room cooler during hot
weather. Multiple roof vents increase the ventilation efficiency, but
increase the chances for leaks.
 OPTIONS FOR ANCHORING A SUN PORCH

On concrete patios, attach the base channel to the concrete

surface with masonry anchors. There are many styles of anchors
you can use. The hardware shown here is a wedge anchor that is
driven into a hole drilled through the base channel and into the
concrete. If your concrete slab is not level, you’ll need to insert shims
underneath the base channel in low spots.
Building a new ground-level deck is a good way to create a stable
floor for your sun porch if your concrete patio is in poor condition or if
there is no other floor structure in the installation area. Attach
pressure-treated 2 × 4 sleepers to the concrete surface to create a
raised surface to set the deck on.
Set treated wood timbers onto a concrete footing for a sturdy wall
base that you can attach to directly when installing the base
channels. The footings should extend below your frost line to keep
the structure from shifting, but you can use a less permanent floor
system, such as sand-set pavers, if you wish.

Tools & Materials

4-ft. level
Drill and bits
1/4" and 3/8" hex nut drivers
#2 square screw (Robertson) bit
Socket wrench set
Chalk line
Caulking gun
Rubber mallet
Pressure-treated 2 × 4 and 2 × 6 lumber
Exterior house paint
Metal roof flashing
100% silicone caulk
1/4" × 1 1/2" and 1/4" × 2 1/2" corrosion-resistant lag screws and
washers Additional fasteners for securing sunroom to house and
supporting surface
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Sun Porch Terms

Mounting surface: May be a level wood deck, concrete slab or patio.
Right and left end walls: Reference point is with your back to the
house looking outwards.
Kneewall (not shown): A site built wall used to increase the height of
the structure.

Door Information
Door (included with kit) may be mounted in any front or end wall bay.
Door opening is 33" wide and 72" high.
Door swings outward and can be hinged for left-hand or right-hand
operation.
 HOW TO BUILD A SUN PORCH KIT

Install pressure-treated 2 × 4 vertical support cleats and a 2 × 6

horizontal support ledger onto the house wall, following the
manufacturer’s specifications (See page 371 for options). On non-
lap siding, mount the support pieces directly over the siding. For lap
siding, cut away the siding and mount the ledger and support cleats
over the wall sheathing and building paper. Paint the ledger and
cleats before installation, and add roof flashing over the header,
leaving it unfastened until the sunroom roof is completely
assembled. Make sure the ledger is perfectly level and the vertical
cleats are plumb.
Lay out the base channel pieces onto your surface in the
installation area. Join the pieces using the provided splice brackets
and screws.

Countering Slope
Make sure the wood deck, patio, or other installation base is level
before installing the sunroom. If not, you may need to install long wood
wedges that fit under the floor plates or take other corrective measures
as suggested in your installation manual.
Position the free ends of the base channel against the wall cleats.
Use a 4-ft. level to make sure the channel sections are level. If
necessary, use tapered shims to level the channel. Then, check the
base frame for square by measuring diagonally from corner to
corner. Make adjustments as needed until the measurements are
equal.
Fasten the base frame to the surface using a recommended
fastener at each of the predrilled mounting holes. Apply a bead of
silicone caulk where the channel meets the surface on both sides of
the channel. Install the base channel vertical brackets to the base
channels using the provided screws (inset photo). These brackets
will join the vertical end-wall tubes and front-wall columns to the
base channel frame.
To begin assembling the wall and roof structures, first join the
end-wall headers (the two outside rafters) and the rafters (the interior
rafters) to the front-wall columns using the provided mounting
brackets and screws. Also install the mounting brackets onto the free
ends of the headers and rafters; these are used to mount the
headers and rafters to the 2 × 6 support ledger (per step 1 on page
375) on the house wall.
Complete the end-wall assemblies by joining the vertical wall
tubes to the end-wall headers using the provided hardware. Finally,
install the mullion brackets onto the sides of the rafters and end-wall
headers; these will join the horizontal mullions to the rafters and
headers to tie the roof frame together (see Step 11).
With a helper, raise one of the end-wall assemblies into position and
set the vertical tubes over the base channel brackets. Fasten the
tubes to the brackets with screws. Install the other end-wall
assembly the same way.
Anchor the end-wall assemblies to the 2 × 4 support cleats and
the 2 × 6 support ledger on the house wall. Use a level to position
the vertical tubes perfectly plumb, and secure the tubes to the cleats
using the recommended fasteners driven through the predrilled
holes. Secure the end-wall headers to the 2 × 6 support header
using the recommended fasteners.
Snap a chalk line across the face of the 2 × 6 support ledger so the
line is flush with the tops of the end-wall headers. This line
corresponds to the tops of the rafters and the bottom edge of the top
mullion pieces.
Working from one end wall to the other, position the first rafter-
front column assembly in place, and secure the column to the base
channel using the provided screws. Then, install the horizontal
mullions between the end-wall header and the first rafter using the
provided screws. Repeat this process to install the remaining rafter
assemblies and mullions.
Install the top mullion pieces: Apply silicone caulk to the 2 × 6
support ledger to seal the vertical flange of the top mullions to the
ledger. Also caulk where the horizontal flanges of the mullions will
meet the end-wall headers and rafters. Working from the right end
wall to the left, secure the top mullions to the end-wall headers and
the rafters using the provided screws.
Anchor the rafters to the 2 × 6 support ledger using the
recommended fasteners driven through the mounting brackets you
installed on the rafter ends in Step 6.

Install the header caps over the tops of the end-wall headers; these
will help secure the roof glazing panels. First apply a bead of caulk
down the center of each header, stopping it 3" from the end of the
header. Set each cap into the wet caulk and secure it with the
provided screws. Install the rafter caps following the same
procedure.

Install the eave mullions over the exposed ends of the rafters and
end-wall headers. Apply caulk over the center of each frame part and
around each predrilled hole. Set the mullions into the wet caulk and
secure them with screws. Note: Complete all additional caulking of
the framing as recommended by the manufacturer.
Prepare the roofing panels for installation by taping the ends:
Cover the top end of each panel with a strip of aluminum tape, and
cover the bottom end with vented tape; both tapes are provided.
Follow the manufacturers instructions to install any optional roof
vents.
Apply adhesive foam gasket strips (provided) to the roof battens
that will secure the glazing panels to the roof framing, following the
manufacturer’s directions. Be careful not to pull or stretch the
gaskets. Also apply gaskets to the roof framing, along the end-wall
headers, rafters, top mullions, and eave mullions, as directed.
Remove the protective film from the first roofing panel, making
sure the UV-protected side of the panel is facing up. With a helper,
place the panel on top of the end-wall header and the adjacent rafter
at one end of the roof. The panel should rest against the eave
mullion along the front wall.
Secure the outside edge and ends of the panel with the
appropriate battens, using the provided screws. To fasten battens to
the eave mullion, first drill pilot holes into the mullion, using the
predrilled batten holes as a guide. Carefully caulk the panel and
battens at the prescribed locations.
Position the next roofing panel onto the rafters, and secure it with
battens. The long, vertical batten covers both long edges of the first
two panels. Tip: You have to reach across a panel to fasten vertical
battens. This is easiest when you have a tall ladder and use a
magnetic nut driver on your drill, which allows you to drive the
screws with one hand. Complete the flashing details along the 2 × 6
roof header as directed.
Install the remaining roofing panels, following the same
procedure. Be sure to caulk the roofing carefully at all prescribed
locations.
Begin the wall section installation by adding a triangular
aluminum filler piece to the front section of each end wall. Install the
fillers with the provided brackets and screws, then caulk along the
top and ends of the fillers as directed.
Apply sealant tape along the perimeter of the first section on the
front wall. Press the strips of tape firmly together to create a seal at
each corner. Tip: Storing the roll of tape in the refrigerator prior to
installation makes it easier to work with.

Tip
The sunroom’s door can go into any one of the wall sections. When choosing the
location, plan for easy access to both the house and yard. Also consider how the
sunroom’s layout will be affected by traffic flow into and out of the door. The door itself
always opens out, but it can be hinged on either the right or left side.
Determine the door location (see Tip, previous page). Install the
first screen/window frame: Set the panel onto the base channel,
making sure the frame’s weep holes are at the bottom. Align the
frame within the opening, and press inward firmly to seat it into the
sealant tape. Secure the frame with the provided screws. Install the
remaining frames using the same techniques.
Install the trapezoidal windows under the headers on the end
walls: Apply sealant tape as before, position the window, then
secure it with the provided screws.
Complete the window installation by removing the bottom and top
sash of each window frame. Peel off the protective film from the
glazing, then reinstall each sash, following the manufacturer’s
directions.
Begin the door installation by fastening the door threshold to the
base channel, using the provided screws. Then, add the
weatherstripping to the hinge bar and latch bar pieces and the
header piece. Trim the excess weatherstripping.
Decide which side of the door will be hinged. Align the hinge bar
(with door attached) to the markings on the vertical wall tube or front
column, drill pilot holes, and mount the door to the column with
screws.
Install the latch bar, leaving a 1/8" gap between the bar and the
door edge. Install the header piece, also with a 1/8" gap. Complete
the door assembly to add the handle, sweep, and closer, following
the manufacturer’s instructions.
Apply sealant tape to the door frame, and install the two glazing
panels as directed. Add the decorative cover on each side of the
door, seating it with a rubber mallet. If the door is located on one of
the end walls, install the trapezoidal window above the door, using
the same techniques described in Step 24.
DIY GABLED GREENHOUSE

A greenhouse can be a decorative and functional building that

adds beauty to your property. A greenhouse also can be a
quick-and-easy, temporary structure that serves a purpose and then
disappears. The wood-framed greenhouse seen here fits somewhere
between these two types. The sturdy wood construction will hold
up for many seasons. The plastic sheeting covering will last one to
four or five seasons, depending on the materials you choose, and it
is easy to replace when it starts to degrade.
The five-foot-high kneewalls in this design provide ample space
for installing and working on a conventional-height potting table.
The walls also provide some space for plants to grow. For a door,
this plan simply employs a sheet of weighted plastic that can be
tied out of the way for entry and exit. If you plan to go in and out
of the greenhouse frequently, you can purchase a prefabricated
greenhouse door from a greenhouse materials supplier. To allow for
ventilation in hot weather, we built a wood-frame vent cover that
fits over one rafter bay and can be propped open easily.
You can use hand-driven nails or pneumatic framing nails to
assemble the frame if you wish, although deck screws make more
sense for a small structure like this.
A wood-frame greenhouse with sheet-plastic cover is an
inexpensive, semipermanent gardening structure that can be used
as a potting area as well as a protective greenhouse.
Tools, Materials & Cutting List

(1) 20 × 50-ft. roll 4- or 6-mil polyethylene sheeting

(12) 24"-long pieces of No. 3 rebar
(8) 8" timber screws
Compactable gravel (or drainage gravel)
Excavation tools
Level
Circular saw
Drill/driver with nut-driver bit
Reciprocating saw
Maul
Hammer
3" deck screws
Speed square
Jigsaw or handsaw
Wire brads
Brad nailer (optional)
Scissors
Utility knife
Tape measure
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Key A
No. 2
Part Base ends
Dimension 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 96"
Material 4 × 4 landscape timber

Key B
No. 2
Part Base sides
Dimension 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 113"
Material 4 × 4 landscape timber

Key C
No. 2
Part Sole plates end
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 89"
Material 2 × 4 pressure-treated

Key D
No. 2
Part Sole plates side
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 120"
Material 2 × 4 pressure-treated

Key E
No. 12
Part Wall studs side
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 57"
Material 2×4

Key F
No. 1
Part Ridge support
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 91"
Material 2×4

Key G
No. 2
Part Back studs
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 76" *
Material 2×4

Key H
No. 2
Part Door frame sides
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 81" *
Material 2×4

Key I
No. 1
Part Cripple stud
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 16"
Material 2×4

Key J
No. 1
Part Door header
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 32"
Material 2×4

Key K
No. 2
Part Kneewall caps
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 120"
Material 2×4

Key L
No. 1
Part Ridge pole
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 120"
Material 2×4

Key M
No. 12
Part Rafters
Dimension 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 60" *
Material 2×4

*Approximate dimension; take actual length and angle measurements

on structure before cutting.
 HOW TO BUILD A GABLED GREENHOUSE

Prepare the installation area so it is flat and well drained; then cut
the base timbers (4 × 4 landscape timbers) to length. Arrange the
timbers so they are flat and level and create a rectangle with square
corners. Drive a pair of 8" timber screws at each corner, using a
drill/driver with a nut-driver bit.
Cut 12 pieces of #3 rebar to length at 24" (if necessary), using a
reciprocating saw or hacksaw. Drill a 3/8"-dia. pilot hole through each
timber, near both ends and in the middle. Confirm that the timber
frame is square by measuring diagonally between opposing corners
(the measurements must be equal). Drive a rebar spike through
each hole, using a sledgehammer, until the bar is flush with the
timber.
Cut the sole plates, caps, and studs for the two kneewalls. Mark
the stud layouts onto the plates and caps, spacing the studs at 24"
on center. Assemble each kneewall by driving 3" deck screws
through the sole plates and caps and into the ends of the studs.
Install the kneewalls onto the timber base. Set each wall onto a
side timber so the sole plate is flush with the ends and side edges of
the timber frame. Fasten the sole plate to the timber with 3" deck
screws.
Begin the end walls by cutting and installing the end sole plates to
fit between the side plates, using 3" deck screws. Cut the ridge
support posts to length. Install one post at the center of each end
sole plate, using screws or nails driven at an angle (toenailed).
Check the posts with a level to make sure they’re plumb before
fastening. Note: The front post will be cut later to create the door
opening.
Set the ridge pole on top of the support posts and check it for
level. Install temporary cross braces between the outer kneewall
studs and each support post, making sure the posts are plumb
before fastening the braces. Double-check the posts and ridge for
plumb and level, respectively.
Create a template rafter by cutting a 2 × 4 at about 66" long. Hold
the board against the end of the ridge and the top outside corner of a
kneewall cap. Trace along the face of the ridge and the cap to mark
the cutting lines for the rafter. Cut along the lines, then test-fit the
rafter and make any necessary adjustments for a good fit.
Mark and cut the remaining rafters, using the template to trace the
cutting lines onto each piece of stock. Tip: A jigsaw or handsaw is
handy for making the bottom-end cuts without having to over-cut, as
you would with a circular saw.
Install the rafters, using the deck screws driven at an angle into the
kneewall caps and the ridge. The rafters should be aligned with the
studs and perpendicular to the ridge.
Mark the two door frame studs by holding them plumb and tracing
along the bottom edge of the rafter above. Position the studs on-the-
flat, so the inside edge of each is 16" from the center of the support
post (for a 32"-wide door, as shown). Install the studs with angled
screws. Cut and install two studs on the rear end wall, spacing them
evenly between the kneewalls and support post.
Complete the door frame: Mark the front support post 78" (or as
desired) up from the sole plate. Make a square cut at the mark, using
a circular saw or cordless trim saw (inset), then remove the bottom
portion of the post. Cut the door header (from the post waste) to fit
between the door studs. Fasten the header to the door studs and
remaining post piece with screws.
Begin covering the greenhouse with the desired cover material (6-
mil poly sheeting shown here), starting at the end walls. Cut the
sheeting roughly to size and secure it to the framing with wood tack
strips fastened with wire brads. Secure the sheeting at the top first,
the sides next, and the bottom last. Trim the excess material along
the edges of the strips with a utility knife.
Attach sheeting to the edges of the sole plate on one side of the
greenhouse, then roll the sheeting over the top and down the other
side. Draw it taut, and cut it a little long with scissors. Secure the
sheeting to the other sole plate (using tack strips), then attach it to
the outside edges of the corner studs.
Create the door, using a piece of sheeting cut a little larger than the
door opening (or purchase a door kit; see photo below). Secure the
top of the door to the header with a tack strip. Weight the door’s
bottom end with a 2 × 4 scrap cut to length.
Option: Make a vent window. First, cut a hole in the roof in one
rafter bay and tack the cut edges of the plastic to the faces (not the
edges) of the rafters, ridge pole and wall cap. Then build a frame
from 1 × 2 stock that will span from the ridge to the top of the
kneewall and extend a couple of inches past the rafters at the side of
the opening. Clad the frame with plastic sheeting and attach it to the
ridge pole with butt hinges. Install a screw-eye latch to secure it at
the bottom. Make and attach props if you wish.
 Greenhouse Doors

Plastic door kits, available from greenhouse suppliers, include self-adhesive zipper
strips and are easy to roll up and tie for access or ventilation. You can also create your
own roll-up door with zipper strips and plastic sheeting purchased from a building
center.
FREESTANDING KIT GREENHOUSE

B uilding a greenhouse from a prefabricated kit offers many

advantages. Kits are usually very easy to assemble because
all parts are prefabricated and the lightweight materials are easy to
handle. The quality of kit greenhouses varies widely, though, and
buying from a reputable manufacturer will help ensure that you get
many years of service from your greenhouse.
If you live in a snowy climate, you may need to either provide
extra support within the greenhouse or be ready to remove snow
whenever there is a significant snowfall because the lightweight
aluminum frame members can easily bend under a heavy load.
Before buying a kit, make sure to check on how snowfall may
affect it.
Kit greenhouses are offered by many different manufacturers,
and the exact assembly technique you use will depend on the
specifics of your kit. Make sure you read the printed instructions
carefully, as they may vary from this project.
The kit we’re demonstrating here is made from aluminum frame
pieces and transparent polycarbonate panels and is designed to be
installed over a subbase of gravel about five inches thick. Other
kits may have different subbase requirements.
When you purchase your kit, make sure to uncrate it and
examine all the parts before you begin. Make sure all the pieces are
there and that there are no damaged panels or bent frame members.
A perfectly flat and level base is crucial to any kit greenhouse,
so make sure to work carefully. Try to do the work on a dry day
with no wind, as the panels and frame pieces can be hard to
manage on a windy day. Never try to build a kit greenhouse by
yourself. At least one helper is mandatory, and you’ll do even better
with two or three.
Construction of a kit greenhouse consists of four basic steps:
laying the base, assembling the frame, assembling the windows and
doors, and attaching the panels.

Kit greenhouses come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, and

quality. The best ones have tempered-glass glazing and are rather
expensive. The one at left is glazed with corrugated polyethylene
and is at the low end of the cost spectrum.
 Tools & Materials
Cordless drill/driver with nut-driver accessory
Shovels and rakes
Mason’s string
Stakes
Commercial-grade landscape fabric
Compactible gravel
Tamper
Greenhouse kit
Straight 2 × 4
Gravel or other fill material for floor
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Organize and inspect the contents of your kit cartons to make

sure all of the parts are present and in good condition. Most manuals
will have a checklist. Staging the parts makes for a more efficient
assembly. Just be sure not to leave any small parts loose, and do
not store parts in high-traffic areas.

A cordless drill/driver with a nut-driver accessory will trim hours off

of your assembly time compared with using only hand tools.
Rent outdoor power equipment if you need to do significant
regrading to create a flat, level building base. Be sure to have your
local utility company inspect for any buried utility lines first. (You may
prefer to hire a landscaping company to do re-grading work for you.)
 HOW TO BUILD A FREESTANDING KIT
GREENHOUSE

Establish layout lines for the gravel subbase, using stakes or

batterboards and mason’s string. The excavation area for the
subbase should be at least 2" wider and longer than the outside
dimensions of the greenhouse kit base. Make sure the layout is
perfectly square (the lines are perpendicular to one another) by
measuring diagonally between opposing corners: the layout is
square when the measurements are equal.
Excavate the site to a depth of 5", using the layout strings as a
guide. As you work, use a straight 2 × 4 and a 4-ft. level to check the
excavation to make sure it is level and flat. Tamp any loose soil with
a plate compactor or hand tamp. Cover the excavation with
commercial-grade landscape fabric (do not use plastic; the
membrane must be water-permeable). Fill the area with 2 or 3" of
compactible gravel, grade and level it, then tamp it thoroughly. Add
more gravel, level, and tamp for a final subbase depth of 5".
Assemble the greenhouse base, using the provided corner and
end connectors. Set the base onto the subbase and make sure the
base is level. Measure the diagonals to check for square, as before.
Add a top dressing of gravel or other fill material inside the base, up
to about 1" below the base’s top lip. Smooth and level the gravel as
before.
Attach the bottom wall plates to the base pieces so that the
flanged edges face outside the greenhouse. In most systems, the
floor plates will interlock with one another, end to end, with built-in
brackets.
Fasten the four corner studs to the bottom wall plates, using hold-
down connectors and bolts. In this system, each corner stud is
secured with two connectors.
Install the ceiling plates: Assemble the pieces for each side ceiling
plate. Attach each side plate against the inside of the two corner
studs along each side of the greenhouse, making sure the gutter is
positioned correctly. Attach the front ceiling plate to the outsides of
the corner studs at the front of the building.
Attach the other side ceiling plate along the other side, flat against
the inside of the corner studs. Then attach corner brackets to the
rear studs, and construct the back top plate by attaching the rear
braces to the corners and joining the braces together with stud
connectors.
Fasten the left and right rear studs to the outside of the rear floor
plate, making sure the top ends are sloping upward, toward the peak
of the greenhouse. Attach the center rear studs to the rear floor
plate, fastening them to the stud connectors used to join the rear
braces.

Backwards and Forwards

With some kits you need to go backward to go forward. Because the
individual parts of your kit depend upon one another for support, you
may be required to tack all the parts together with bolts first and then
undo and remake individual connections as you go before you can
finalize them. For example, in this kit you must undo the track/brace
connections one at a time so you can insert the bolt heads for the stud
connectors into the track.
Install the doorway studs at either side of the greenhouse door, on
the front end of the building. Install the side studs along both side
walls of the greenhouse.

Add diagonal struts, as directed by the manufacturer. The struts

help to stiffen and square up the walls. As you work, take diagonal
measurements between opposing corners at the tops of the walls, to
make sure the structure remains square.
Fasten the gable-end stud extensions to the front and back walls
of the greenhouse. The top ends of the studs should angle upward,
toward the peak of the greenhouse.
Assemble the roof frame on a flat area near the wall assembly.
First assemble the crown-beam pieces; then attach the rafters to the
crown, one by one. The end rafters, called the crown beams, have a
different configuration, so make sure not to confuse them.
With at least one helper, lift the roof into place onto the wall frames.
The gable end studs should meet the outside edges of the crown
beams, and the ends of the crown beams rest on the outer edge of
the corner bracket. Fasten in place with the provided nuts and bolts.
Attach the side braces and the roof-window support beams to the
underside of the roof rafters, as specified by the manufacturer’s
instructions.
Build the roof windows by first connecting the two side window
frames to the top window frame. Slide the window panel into the
frame; then secure it by attaching the bottom window frame. Slide
the window into the slot at the top of the roof crown; then gradually
lower it in place. Attach the window stop to the window support
beam.
Assemble the doors, making sure the top slider/roller bar and the
bottom slider bar are correctly positioned. Lift the door panels up into
place onto the top and bottom wall plates.
Install the panels one by one, using panel clips. Begin with the
large wall panels. Position each panel and secure it by snapping a
clip into the frame, at the intervals specified by the manufacturer’s
instructions.
Add the upper panels. At the gable ends, the upper panels will be
supported by panel connectors that allow the top panel to be
supported by the bottom panel. The lower panels should be installed
already.

Image
Install the roof panels and roof-window panels so that the top
edges fit up under the edge of the crown or window support and the
bottom edges align over the gutters.
 Image
Test the door and window operation, and make any necessary
adjustments so they open and close smoothly.
PVC HOOPHOUSE

T he hoophouse is a popular garden structure for two main

reasons: it is cheap to build and easy to build. In many
agricultural areas you will see hoophouses snaking across vast
fields of seedlings, protecting the delicate plants at their most
vulnerable stages. Because they are portable and easy to
disassemble, they can be removed when the plants are established
and less vulnerable.
While hoophouses are not intended as inexpensive substitutes
for real greenhouses, they do serve an important agricultural
purpose. And building your own is a fun project that the whole
family can enjoy.
The hoophouse shown here is essentially a Quonset-style frame
of bent 3/4-inch PVC tubing draped with sheet plastic. Each
semicircular frame is actually made from two 10-foot lengths of
tubing that fit into a plastic fitting at the apex of the curve. PVC
tubes tend to stay together simply by friction-fitting into the
fittings, so you don’t normally need to solvent glue the connections
(this is important to the easy-to-disassemble and store feature). If
you experience problems with the frame connections separating, try
cutting four- to six-inch-long pieces of 1/2-inch (outside diameter)
PVC tubing and inserting them into the tubes and fittings like
splines. This will stiffen the connections.

Image
A hoophouse is a temporary agricultural structure designed to be
low-cost and portable. Also called Quonset houses and tunnel
houses, hoophouses provide shelter and shade (depending on the
film you use) and protection from wind and the elements. They will
boost heat during the day, but are less efficient than paneled
greenhouses for extending the growing season.
PVC Hoophouse

Image

Tools & Materials

Hand sledge
Plastic tubing cutter or hacksaw
Wood or rubber mallet
Circular saw
Stapler
Drill
Utility knife
Stakes and mason’s string
Eye and ear protection
Tape measure
Work gloves
(5) 1/2" × 10 ft. CPVC pipes
(14) 3/4" × 10 ft. PVC pipes
(3) 3/4" PVC cross fittings
(2) 3/4" PVC T-fittings
16 × 24 ft. clear or translucent plastic sheeting
(4) 16-ft. pressure-treated 2 × 4s
2 1/2" deck screws
(1) 1" × 6 ft. PE tubing (black, flexible)
2 × 4 lumber

Building a Hoophouse
• Space frame hoops about 3 ft. apart.
 • Leave ridge members a fraction of an inch (not more than 1/4") shorter
than the span, which will cause the structure to be slightly shorter on
top than at the base. This helps stabilize the structure.
• Orient the structure so the wall faces into the prevailing wind rather
than the end openings.
• If you are using long-lasting greenhouse fabric for the cover, protect
the investment by spray-painting the frame hoops with primer so
there is no plastic-to-plastic contact.
• Because hoophouses are temporary structures that are designed to be
disassembled or moved regularly, you do not need to include a base.
• Hoophouses can act a lot like boat sails and will fly away if they’re
not anchored securely. Be sure to stake each hoop to the ground at
both ends (with 30"-long or longer stakes), and carefully weight down
the cover with boards (as shown here) or piles of dirt.
• Clip the hoophouse covers to the end frames. Clips fastened at the
intermediate hoops will either fly off or tear the plastic cover in
windy conditions.

Image
Sheet plastic is an inexpensive material for creating a greenhouse.
Obviously, it is less durable than polycarbonate, fiberglass or glass
panels. But UV-stabilized films at least 6-mil thick can be rated to
withstand four years or more of exposure. Inexpensive polyethylene
sheeting (the kind you find at hardware stores) will hold up for a year
or two, but it becomes brittle when exposed to sunlight. Some
greenhouse builders prefer to use clear plastic sheeting to maximize
the sunlight penetration, but the cloudiness of translucent poly
makes it effective for diffusing light and preventing overheating. For
the highest quality film coverings, look for film rated for greenhouse
and agricultural use.

Image
Plastic tubing and fittings used to build this hoophouse include:
Light-duty 3/4" PVC tubing for the frame (do not use CPVC—it is too
rigid and won’t bend properly); 1/2" CPVC supply tubing for the frame
stakes (rigidity is good here); polyethylene (PE) tubing for the cover
clips; T-fittings and cross fittings to join the frame members.
 HOW TO BUILD A PVC HOOPHOUSE
Image
Lay out the installation area, using stakes and mason’s string.
Stake the four corners to create a rectangle that is 10 ft. wide and 15
ft. long. To make sure the layout is square (the strings are
perpendicular), measure diagonally between opposing corner
stakes: when the measurements are equal, the layout is square.

Image
Cut a 30"-long stake from 1/2" CPVC pipe for each leg of each
frame hoop. Plastic pipe is easy to cut with a plastic tubing cutter or
a hacksaw. Mark the layout strings at 36" intervals, using tape or a
marker. Drive a stake at each marked location, using a hand sledge
or hammer. Keep the stakes plumb and drive them in 20" deep, so
only 10" is above ground.

Image
Join the two legs for each frame hoop with a fitting. Use a T-fitting
for the end hoop frames and a cross fitting for the intermediate hoop
frames. No priming or solvent gluing is necessary. (The friction-fit
should be sufficient, but it helps if you tap on the end of the fitting
with a mallet to seat it.)

Image
Slip the open end of one hoop-frame leg over a corner stake so the
pipe is flush against the ground. Then bend the pipes so you can fit
the other leg end over the stake at the opposite corner. If you
experience problems with the pipes pulling out of the top fitting,
simply tape the joints temporarily until the structure frame is
completed.
 Image
Continue adding hoop frames until you reach the other end of the
structure. Wait until all the hoop frames are in place before you begin
installing the ridge poles. Make sure the cross fittings on the
intermediate hoop frames are aligned correctly to accept the ridge
poles.

Image
Add the ridge pole sections to tie together the hoop frames. The
correct length for the ridge poles depends on the socket depth of the
fitting you use, so you’ll have to measure the fittings and calculate
length of the ridge pieces. If necessary, tap the end of each ridge
piece with a wood or rubber mallet to seat it fully in the fitting socket.

Image
Cut four 2 × 4s to length (15 ft. as shown). Cut the cover material
to length at 16 ft. (or as needed so it is several inches longer than
the house at both ends). Staple one edge of the cover to one of the 2
× 4s, keeping the material taut and flat as you work from one end to
the other

Image
Lay another 2 × 4 over the first so their ends and edges are flush
and the cover material is sandwiched in between. Fasten the two
boards together with 2 1/2" deck screws driven every 24" or so.
Position the board assembly along the base of the hoops and pull
the free end of the material over the tops of the hoops to the other
side.

Image
Pull the cover taut on the other side of the house, and repeat the
process of stapling it to one board then sandwiching with the other.
 Image
Secure the cover at the ends with 6" lengths of 1" PE tubing. Cut
the tubing pieces to length, then slit them lengthwise to create simple
clips. Use at least six clips at each end of the house. Do not use
clips on the intermediate hoops.

Image
Option: Make doors by clipping a piece of cover material to each
end. (It’s best to do this before attaching the main cover.) Then cut a
slit down the center of the end material. You can tie or tape the door
material to the sides when you want it open and weigh down the
pieces with a board or brick to keep the door shut. This solution is
low-tech but effective.
METAL & WOOD KIT SHEDS

T he following pages walk you through the steps of building

two new sheds from kits. The metal shed measures eight by
nine feet and comes with every piece in the main building pre-cut
and pre-drilled. All you need is a ladder and a few hand tools for
assembly. The wood shed is a cedar building with panelized
construction—most of the major elements come in preassembled
sections. The walls panels have exterior siding installed, and the
roof sections are already shingled. For both sheds, the pieces are
lightweight and maneuverable, but it helps to have at least two
people for fitting everything together.
As with most kits, these sheds do not include foundations as part
of the standard package. The metal shed can be built on top of a
patio surface or out in the yard, with or without an optional floor.
The wood shed comes with a complete wood floor, but the building
needs a standard foundation, such as wooden skid, concrete block,
or concrete slab foundation. To help keep either type of shed level
and to reduce moisture from ground contact, it’s a good idea to
build it over a bed of compacted gravel. A four-inch-deep bed that
extends about six inches beyond the building footprint makes for a
stable foundation and helps keep the interior dry throughout the
seasons.
Before you purchase a shed kit, check with your local building
department to learn about restrictions that affect your project. It’s
recommended—and often required—that lightweight metal sheds
be anchored to the ground. Shed manufacturers offer different
anchoring systems, including cables for tethering the shed into soil,
and concrete anchors for tying into a concrete slab.
 Image
Kit sheds offer the storage you need, a quick build, and an
attractive addition to your backyard. The metal shed kit shown here
is constructed on pages 410 to 415.
 BUILDING A METAL OR WOOD KIT SHED
If you need an outbuilding but don’t have the time or inclination to
build one from scratch, a kit shed is the answer. Today’s kit sheds
are available in a wide range of materials, sizes, and styles—from
snap-together plastic lockers to Norwegian pine cabins with
divided-light windows and loads of architectural details. Equally
diverse is the range of quality and prices for shed kits. One thing to
keep in mind when choosing a shed is that much of what you’re
paying for is the materials and the ease of installation. Better kits
are made with quality, long-lasting materials, and many come
largely preassembled. Most of the features discussed below will
have an impact on a shed’s cost.
The best place to start shopping for shed kits is on the Internet.
Large manufacturers and small-shop custom designers alike have
websites featuring their products and available options. A quick
online search should help you narrow down your choices to sheds
that fit your needs and budget. From there, you can visit local
dealers or builders to view assembled sheds firsthand. When
figuring cost, be sure to factor in all aspects of the project,
including the foundation, extra hardware, tools you don’t already
own, and paint and other finishes not included with your kit.

Image
This all-cedar kit shed is constructed on pages 416 to 423.

Image
High-tech plastics like polyethylene and vinyl are often combined
with steel and other rigid materials to create tough, weather-resistant
—and washable—kit buildings.
 Image
If you’re looking for something special, higher-end shed kits allow
you to break with convention without breaking your budget on a
custom-built structure.

Tools & Materials

Landscape grading or leveling tools
Landscape fabric
Compactible gravel
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
Tape measure
Drill
Straight 2 × 4

Features to Consider
Here are some of the key elements to check out before purchasing a kit
shed:
MATERIALS
Shed kits are made of wood, metal, vinyl, various plastic compounds,
or any combination thereof. Consider aesthetics, of course, but also
durability and appropriateness for your climate. For example, check the
snow load rating on the roof if you live in a snowy climate, or inquire
about the material’s UV resistance if your shed will receive heavy sun
exposure. The finish on metal sheds is important for durability.
Protective finishes include paint, powder-coating, and vinyl. For wood
sheds, consider all of the materials, from the framing to the siding,
roofing, and trimwork.
EXTRA FEATURES
Do you want a shed with windows or a skylight? Some kits come with
these features, while others offer them as optional add-ons. For a shed
workshop, office, or other workspace where you’ll be spending a lot of
time, consider the livability and practicality of the interior space, and
shop accordingly for special features.
WHAT’S INCLUDED?
Many kits do not include foundations or floors, and floors are
commonly available as extras. Other elements that may not be
included:

• Paint, stain, etc.—Also, some sheds come pre-painted (or pre-

primed), but you won’t want to pay extra for a nice paint job if you
plan to paint the shed to match your house.
• Roofing—Often the plywood roof sheathing is included but not the
building paper, drip edge, or shingles.

Most shed kits include hardware (nails, screws) for assembling the
building, but always check this to make sure.
ASSEMBLY
Many kit manufacturers have downloadable assembly instructions on
their websites, so you can really see what’s involved in putting their
shed together. Assembly of wood sheds varies considerably among
manufacturers—the kit may arrive as a bundle of pre-cut lumber or
with screw-together prefabricated panels. Easy-assembly models may
have wall siding and roof shingles already installed onto panels.
EXTENDERS
Some kits offer the option of extending the main building with
extenders, or expansion kits, making it easy to turn an 8 × 10-ft. shed
into a 10 × 12-ft. shed, for example.
FOUNDATION
Check with the manufacturer for recommended foundation types to use
under their sheds.

Image
Shed hardware kits make it easy to build a shed from scratch. Using the structural
gussets and framing connectors, you avoid tricky rafter cuts and roof assembly. Many
hardware kits come with lumber cutting lists so you can build the shed to the desired
size without using plans.
 HOW TO ASSEMBLE A METAL KIT SHED
Image
Prepare the building site by leveling and grading as needed, and
then excavating and adding a 4"-thick layer of compactible gravel. If
desired, apply landscape fabric under the gravel to inhibit weed
growth. Compact the gravel with a tamper and use a level and a
long, straight 2 × 4 to make sure the area is flat and level.

Image
Note: Always wear work gloves when handling shed parts—the
metal edges can be very sharp. Begin by assembling the floor kit
according to the manufacturer’s directions—these will vary quite a bit
among models, even within the same manufacturer. Be sure that the
floor system parts are arranged so the door is located where you
wish it to be. Do not fasten the pieces at this stage.

Image
Once you’ve laid out the floor system parts, check to make sure
they’re square before you begin fastening them. Measuring the
diagonals to see if they’re the same is a quick and easy way to
check for square.

Image
Fasten the floor system parts together with kit connectors once
you’ve established that the floor is square. Anchor the floor to the
site if your kit suggests. Some kits are designed to be anchored after
full assembly is completed.

Image
Begin installing the wall panels according to the instructions. Most
panels are predrilled for fasteners, so the main trick is to make sure
the fastener holes align between panels and with the floor.

Image
Tack together mating corner panels on at least two adjacent
corners. If your frame stiffeners require assembly, have them ready
to go before you form the corners. With a helper, attach the frame
stiffener rails to the corner panels.

Image
Install the remaining fasteners at the shed corners once you’ve
established that the corners all are square.

Image
Lay out the parts for assembling the roof beams and the upper
side frames and confirm that they fit together properly. Then, join the
assemblies with the fasteners provided.

Image
Attach the moving and nonmoving parts for the upper door track
to the side frames if your shed has sliding doors.

Image
Fasten the shed panels to the top frames, making sure that any
fasteners holes are aligned and that crimped tabs are snapped
together correctly.

Image
Fill in the wall panels between the completed corners, attaching
them to the frames with the provided fasteners. Take care not to
overdrive the fasteners.
 Image
Fasten the doorframe trim pieces to the frames to finish the door
opening. If the fasteners are colored to match the trim, make sure
you choose the correct ones.

Image
Insert the shed gable panels into the side frames and the door
track and slide them together so the fastener holes are aligned.
Attach the panels with the provided fasteners.

Image
Fit the main roof beam into the clips or other fittings on the gable
panels. Have a helper hold the free end of the beam. Position the
beam and secure it to both gable ends before attaching it.

Image
Drive fasteners to affix the roof beam to the gable ends and install
any supplementary support hardware for the beam, such as gussets
or angle braces.

Image
Begin installing the roof panels at one end, fastening them to the
roof beam and to the top flanges of the side frames.

Image
Apply weatherstripping tape to the top ends of the roof panels to
seal the joints before you attach the overlapping roof panels. If your
kit does not include weatherstripping tape, look for adhesive-backed
foam tape in the weatherstripping products section of your local
building center.
 Image
As the overlapping roof panels are installed and sealed, attach
the roof cap sections at the roof ridge to cover the panel overlaps.
Seal as directed. Note: Completing one section at a time allows you
to access subsequent sections from below so you don’t risk
damaging the roof.

Image
Attach the peak caps to cover the openings at the ends of the
roof cap and then install the roof trim pieces at the bottoms of the
roof panels, tucking the flanges or tabs into the roof as directed.
Install plywood floor, according to manufacturer instructions.

Image
Assemble the doors, paying close attention to right/left differences
on double doors. Attach hinges for swinging doors and rollers for
sliding doors.

Image
Install door tracks and door roller hardware on the floor as
directed and then install the doors according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. Test the action of the doors and make adjustments so
the doors roll or swing smoothly and are aligned properly.

Tips for Maintaining a Metal Shed

Touch up scratches or any exposed metal as soon as possible to prevent
rust. Clean the area with a wire brush, and then apply a paint
recommended by the shed’s manufacturer.
Inspect your shed once or twice a year and tighten loose screws,
bolts, and other hardware. Loose connections lead to premature wear.
Sweep off the roof to remove wet leaves and debris, which can be
hard on the finish. Also clear the roof after heavy snowfall to reduce the
risk of collapse.
Seal open seams and other potential entry points for water with
silicone caulk. Keep the shed’s doors closed and latched to prevent
damage from wind gusts.

Anchor the Shed

Metal sheds tend to be light in Image
weight and require secure anchoring to the ground, generally with an
anchor kit that may be sold separately by your kit manufacturer. There
are many ways to accomplish this. The method you choose depends
mostly on the type of base you’ve built on, be it concrete or wood or
gravel. On concrete and wood bases, look for corner gusset anchors that
are attached directly to the floor frame and then fastened with
landscape screws (wood) or masonry anchors driven into concrete.
Sheds that have been built on a gravel or dirt base can be anchored with
auger-type anchors that are driven into the ground just outside the shed.
You’ll need to anchor the shed on at least two sides. Once the anchors
are driven, cables are strung through the shed so they are connected to
the roof beam. The ends of the cables should exit the shed at ground
level and then be attached to the anchors with cable clamps.
 HOW TO BUILD A WOOD KIT SHED
Image
Prepare the base for the shed’s wooden skid foundation with a 4"
layer of compacted gravel. Make sure the gravel is flat, smooth, and
perfectly level. Note: For a sloping site, a concrete block foundation
may be more appropriate (check with your shed’s manufacturer).

Image
Cut three 4 × 4 (or 6 × 6) pressure-treated timbers to match the
length of the shed’s floor frame. Position two outer skids so they will
be flush with the outside edges of the frame, and center one skid in
between. Make sure that each skid is perfectly level and the skids
are level with one another.

Tools & Materials

Surface preparation tools
Pressure-treated lumber
Circular saw
Level
Drill
Screws
Tape measure
Square or straight edge
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Prepare for the Delivery

 Panelized shed kits are shipped on pallets. The delivery truck may have
a forklift, and the driver can take off the load by whole pallets.
Otherwise, you’ll have to unload the pieces one at a time. Make sure to
have two helpers on hand to help you unload (often drivers aren’t
allowed to help due to insurance liability).
Once the load is on the ground, carry the pieces to the building site
and stack them on pallets or scrap-wood skids to keep them clean and
dry. Look through the manufacturer’s instructions and arrange the
stacks according to the assembly steps.

Image

Image

Image
Assemble the floor frame pieces with screws. First, join alternating
pairs of large and small pieces to create three full-width sections.
Fasten the sections together to complete the floor frame.

Image
Attach the floor runners to the bottom of the floor frame, using
exterior screws. Locate the side runners flush to the outsides of the
frame, and center the middle runner in between. Set the frame on
the skids with the runners facing down. Check the frame to make
sure it is level. Secure the floor to the skids following the
manufacturer’s recommendations.

Image
Cover the floor frame with plywood, starting with a large sheet at
the left rear corner of the frame. Fasten the plywood with screws.
Install the two outer deck boards. Lay out all of the remaining boards
in between, then set even gapping for each board. Fasten the
remaining deck boards.
 Image
Lay out the shed’s wall panels in their relative positions around the
floor. Make sure you have them right-side-up: the windows are on
the top half of the walls; on the windowless panels, the siding tells
you which end is up.

Image
Position the two rear corner walls upright onto the floor so the wall
framing is flush with the floor’s edges. Fasten the wall panels
together. Raise and join the remaining wall panels one at a time. Do
not fasten the wall panels to the shed floor in this step.

Image
Place the door header on top of the narrow front wall panel so it’s
flush with the wall framing. Fasten the header with screws. Fasten
the door jamb to the right-side wall framing to create a 1/2" overhang
at the end of the wall. Fasten the header to the jamb with screws.

Image
Confirm that all wall panels are properly positioned on the floor:
The wall framing should be flush with edges of the floor frame; the
wall siding overhangs the outsides of the floor. Fasten the wall
panels by screwing through the bottom wall plate, through the
plywood flooring, and into the floor framing.

Image
Install the wall’s top plates starting with the rear wall. Install the
side wall plates as directed—these overhang the front of the shed
and will become part of the porch framing. Finally, install the front
wall top plates.

Image
Assemble the porch rail sections using the screws provided for
each piece. Attach the top plate extension to the 4 × 4 porch post,
and then attach the wall trim/support to the extension. Fasten the
corner brackets, centered on the post and extension. Install the
handrail section 4" up from the bottom of the post.

Image
Install each of the porch rail sections: Fasten through the wall
trim/support and into the side wall, locating the screws where they
will be least visible. Fasten down through the wall top plate at the
post and corner bracket locations to hide the ends of the screws.
Anchor the post to the decking and floor frame with screws driven
through angled pilot holes.

Image
Hang the Dutch door using two hinge pairs. Install the hinges
onto the door panels. Use three pairs of shims to position the bottom
door panel: 1/2" shims at the bottom, 3/8" shims on the left side, and
1/8" shims on the right side. Fasten the hinges to the wall
trim/support. Hang the top door panel in the same fashion, using 1/4"
shims between the door panels.

Image
Join the two pieces to create the rear wall gable, screwing
through the uprights on the back side. On the outer side of the gable,
slide in a filler shingle until it’s even with the neighboring shingles.
Fasten the filler with two finish nails located above the shingle
exposure line, two courses up. Attach the top filler shingle with two
(exposed) galvanized finish nails.

Image
Position the rear gable on top of the rear wall top plates and center
it from side to side. Use a square or straightedge to align the angled
gable supports with the angled ends of the outer plates. Fasten the
gable to the plates and wall framing with screws. Assemble and
install the middle gable wall.

Image
Arrange the roof panels on the ground according to their
installation. Flip the panels over and attach framing connectors to the
rafters at the marked locations, using screws.

Image
With one or two helpers, set the first roof panel at the rear of the
shed, then set the opposing roof panel in place. Align the ridge
boards of the two panels, and then fasten them together with screws.
Do not fasten the panels to the walls at this stage.

Image
Position one of the middle roof panels, aligning its outer rafter
with that of the adjacent rear roof panel. Fasten the rafters together
with screws. Install the opposing middle panel in the same way. Set
the porch roof panels into place one at a time—these rest on a 1/2"
ledge at the front of the shed. From inside the shed, fasten the
middle and porch panels together along their rafters.

Image
Check the fit of all roof panels at the outside corners of the shed.
Make any necessary adjustments. Fasten the panels to the shed
with screws, starting with the porch roof. Inside the shed, fasten the
panels to the gable framing, then anchor the framing connectors to
the wall plates.

Image
Install the two roof gussets between the middle rafters of the shed
roof panels (not the porch panels): First measure between the side
walls—this should equal 91" for this kit (see resources). If not, have
two helpers push on the walls until the measurement matches your
requirement. Hold the gussets level, and fasten them to the rafters
with screws.

Image
Add filler shingles at the roof panel seams. Slide in the bottom
shingle and fasten it above the exposure line two courses up, using
two screws. Drive the screws into the rafters. Install the remaining
filler shingles the same way. Attach the top shingle with two
galvanized finish nails.

Image
Cover the underside of the rafter tails (except on the porch) with
soffit panels, fastening to the rafters with finish nails. Cover the floor
framing with skirting boards, starting at the porch sides. Hold the
skirting flush with the decking boards on the porch and with the
siding on the walls, and fasten it with screws.

Image
Add vertical trim boards to cover the wall seams and shed corners.
The rear corners get a filler trim piece, followed by a wide trim board
on top. Add horizontal trim boards at the front wall and along the top
of the door. Fasten all trim with finish nails.

Image
At the rear of the shed, fit the two fascia boards over the ends of
the roof battens so they meet at the roof peak. Fasten the fascia with
screws. Install the side fascia pieces over the rafter tails with finish
nails. The rear fascia overlaps the ends of the side fascia. Cover the
fascia joints and the horizontal trim joint at the front wall with
decorative plates.
 Image
Place the two roof ridge caps along the roof peak, overlapping
the caps’ roofing felt in the center. Fasten the caps with screws.
Install the decorative gusset gable underneath the porch roof panels
using mounting clips. Finish the gable ends with two fascia pieces
installed with screws.

Image
Complete the porch assembly by fastening each front handrail
section to a deck post, using screws. Fasten the handrail to the
corner porch post. The handrail should start 4" above the bottoms of
the posts, as with the side handrail sections. Anchor each deck post
to the decking and floor frame with screws (see below).

Drilling Counterbored Pilot Holes

Image
Use a combination piloting/counterbore bit to pre-drill holes for
installing posts. Angle the pilot holes at about 60°, and drive the screws
into the framing below whenever possible. The counterbore created by
the piloting bit helps hide the screw head.
LEAN-TO TOOL BIN

T he lean-to is a classic Image

outbuilding intended as a supplementary structure for a larger
building. Its simple shed-style roof helps it blend with the
neighboring structure and directs water away and keeps leaves and
debris from getting trapped between the two buildings. When built
to a small shed scale, the lean-to (sometimes called a closet shed) is
most useful as an easy-access storage locker that saves you extra
trips into the garage for often-used lawn and garden tools and
supplies.
This lean-to tool bin is not actually attached to the house, though
it appears to be. It is designed as a freestanding building with a
wooden skid foundation that makes it easy to move. With all four
sides finished, the bin can be placed anywhere, but it works best
when set next to a house or garage wall or a tall fence. If you locate
the bin out in the open—where it won’t be protected against wind
and extreme weather—be sure to anchor it securely to the ground
to prevent it from blowing over.
As shown here, the bin is finished with asphalt shingle roofing,
T1-11 plywood siding, and 1× cedar trim, but you can substitute
any type of finish to match or complement a neighboring structure.
Its 65-inch-tall double doors provide easy access to its 18 square
feet of floor space. The 8-foot-tall rear wall can accommodate a set
of shelves while leaving enough room below for long-handled
tools.
Because the tool bin sits on the ground, in cold climates it will
be subject to shifting with seasonal freeze-thaw cycles. Therefore,
do not attach the tool bin to your house or any other building set on
a frost-proof foundation.
 Tools & Materials
Site prepartation tools and materials
Square
Hammer
Circular saw
Tape measure
Pencil
Plumb bob
Screws
Insect mesh
Shingles
Roof sheathing
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection

Image
Keep your tools safe and dry in the lean-to tool bin located next to
a house, garage, fence, or wall.

Cutting List
Foundation
DESCRIPTION Drainage material
QTY./SIZE 0.5 cu. yd.
MATERIAL Compactible gravel

DESCRIPTION Skids
QTY./SIZE 2 @ 6'
MATERIAL 4 × 4 treated timbers
Floor Framing
DESCRIPTION Rim joists
QTY./SIZE 2 @ 6'
MATERIAL 2 × 6 pressure-treated

DESCRIPTION Joists
QTY./SIZE 3 @ 8'
MATERIAL 2 × 6 pressure-treated

DESCRIPTION Floor sheathing

QTY./SIZE 1 sheet @ 4 × 8
MATERIAL 3/ 4" tongue-&-groove ext.-grade plywood

DESCRIPTION Joist clip angles

QTY./SIZE 4
MATERIAL 3 × 3 × 3" × 16-gauge galvanized

Wall Framing
DESCRIPTION Bottom plates
QTY./SIZE 1 @ 8', 2 @ 6'
MATERIAL 2×4

DESCRIPTION Top plates

QTY./SIZE 1 @ 8', 3 @ 6'
MATERIAL 2×4

DESCRIPTION Studs
QTY./SIZE 14 @ 8', 8 @ 6'
MATERIAL 2×4

DESCRIPTION Header
QTY./SIZE 2 @ 6'
MATERIAL 2×6

DESCRIPTION Header spacer

QTY./SIZE 1 piece @ 6'
MATERIAL 1/ 2" plywood—5" wide

Roof Framing
DESCRIPTION Rafters
QTY./SIZE 6 @ 6'
MATERIAL 2×6

DESCRIPTION Ledger*
QTY./SIZE 1 @ 6'
MATERIAL 2×6

Roofing
DESCRIPTION Roof sheathing
QTY./SIZE 2 sheets @ 4 × 8'
MATERIAL 1/ 2" ext.-grade plywood

DESCRIPTION Shingles
QTY./SIZE 30 sq. ft.
MATERIAL 250# per square min.

DESCRIPTION Roofing starter strip

QTY./SIZE 7 linear ft.
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 15# building paper

QTY./SIZE 30 sq. ft.
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION Metal drip edge

QTY./SIZE 24 linear ft.
MATERIAL Galvanized metal

DESCRIPTION Roofing cement

QTY./SIZE 1 tube
MATERIAL
Exterior Finishes
DESCRIPTION Plywood siding
QTY./SIZE 4 sheets @ 4 × 8'
MATERIAL 5/ 8" Texture 1-11 plywood siding, grooves 8" O.C.

DESCRIPTION Door trim

QTY./SIZE 2 @ 8' 2 @ 6'
MATERIAL 1 × 10 S4S cedar 1 × 8 S4S cedar

DESCRIPTION Corner trim

QTY./SIZE 6 @ 8'
MATERIAL 1 × 4 S4S cedar

DESCRIPTION Fascia
QTY./SIZE 3 @ 6' 1 @ 6'
MATERIAL 1 × 8 S4S cedar 1 × 4 S4S cedar

DESCRIPTION Bug screen

QTY./SIZE 8" × 6'
MATERIAL Fiberglass

Doors
DESCRIPTION Frame
QTY./SIZE 3 @ 6'
MATERIAL 3/ 4" × 3 1/2" (actual) cedar

DESCRIPTION Stops
QTY./SIZE 3 @ 6'
MATERIAL 1 × 2 S4S cedar

DESCRIPTION Panel material

QTY./SIZE 12 @ 6'
MATERIAL 1 × 6 T&G V-joint S4S cedar

DESCRIPTION Z-braces
QTY./SIZE 2 @ 10'
MATERIAL 1 × 6 S4S cedar

DESCRIPTION Construction adhesive

QTY./SIZE 1 tube
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION Interior trim (optional)

QTY./SIZE 3 @ 6'
MATERIAL 1 × 3 S4S cedar

DESCRIPTION Strap hinges

QTY./SIZE 6, with screws
MATERIAL

Fasteners
DESCRIPTION 16d galvanized common nails
QTY./SIZE 3 1/2 lbs.
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 16d common nails

QTY./SIZE 3 1/2 lbs.
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 10d common nails

QTY./SIZE 12 nails
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 10d galvanized casing nails

QTY./SIZE 20 nails
MATERIAL
DESCRIPTION 8d galvanized box nails
QTY./SIZE 1/ 2 lb.
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 8d galvanized finish nails

QTY./SIZE 2 lbs.
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 8d common nails

QTY./SIZE 24 nails
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 8d box nails

QTY./SIZE 1/ 2 lb.
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 1 1/2" joist hanger nails

QTY./SIZE 16 nails
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 7/ 8" galvanized roofing nails

QTY./SIZE 1/ 4 lb.
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 2 1/2" deck screws

QTY./SIZE 6 screws
MATERIAL

DESCRIPTION 1 1/4" wood screws

QTY./SIZE 60 screws
MATERIAL

*Note: 6-foot material is often unavailable at local lumber stores, so buy

half as much of 12-foot material.
Floor Framing Plan

Image
Roof Framing Plan

Image
Front Framing Elevation

Image
Left Framing Elevation

Image
Rear Side Framing Elevation

Image
Right Side Framing Elevation

Image
Building Section

Image
Side Elevation

Image
Front Elevation

Image
Rear Elevation

Image
Wall Plan

Image
Rafter Template

Image
Side Roof Edge Detail

Image
Overhang Detail

Image
Door Jamb Detail

Image
Door Elevation

Image
 HOW TO BUILD THE LEAN-TO TOOL BIN
Image
Prepare the site with a 4" layer of compacted gravel. Cut the two 4
× 4 skids at 70 3/4". Set and level the skids following Floor Framing
Plan (page 427). Cut two 2 × 6 rim joists at 70 3/4" and six joists at
44 3/8". Assemble the floor and set it on the skids as shown in the
Floor Framing Plan. Check for square, and then anchor the frame to
the skids with four joist clip angles (inset photo). Sheath the floor
frame with 3/4" plywood.

Image
Cut plates and studs for the walls: Side walls—two bottom plates
at 47 3/8", four studs at 89", and four studs at 69"; Front wall—one
bottom plate at 63 3/4", one top plate at 70 3/4", and four jacks studs
at 63 1/2". Rear wall—one bottom plate at 63 3/4", two top plates at
70 3/4", and six studs at 89". Mark the stud layouts onto the plates.

Image
Fasten the four end studs of each side wall to the bottom plate.
Install these assemblies. Construct the built-up 2 × 6 door header at
63 3/4". Frame and install the front and rear walls, leaving the top
plates off at this time. Nail together the corner studs, making sure
they are plumb. Install the rear top plates flush to the outsides of the
side wall studs. Install the front top plate in the same fashion.

Image
Cut the six 2 × 6 rafters following the Rafter Template (page 430).
Cut the 2 × 6 ledger at 70 3/4" and bevel the top edge at 26.5° so the
overall width is 4 5/16". Mark the rafter layout onto the wall plates and
ledger, as shown in the Roof Framing Plan (page 427), then install
the ledger flush with the back side of the rear wall. Install the rafters.

Image
Complete the side wall framing: Cut a top plate for each side to fit
between the front and rear walls, mitering the ends at 26.5°. Install
the plates flush with the outsides of the end rafters. Mark the stud
layouts onto the side wall bottom plates, then use a plumb bob to
transfer the marks to the top plate. Cut the two studs in each wall to
fit, mitering the top ends at 26.5°. Install the studs.

Image
Sheath the side walls and rear walls with plywood siding, keeping
the bottom edges 1/2" below the floor frame and the top edges flush
with the tops of the rafters. Overlap the siding at the rear corners,
and stop it flush with the face of the front wall.

Image
Add the 1 × 4 fascia over the bottom rafter ends as shown in the
Overhang Detail (page 430). Install 1 × 8 fascia over the top rafter
ends. Overhang the front and rear fascia to cover the ends of the
side fascia, or plan to miter all fascia joints. Cut the 1 × 8 side fascia
to length, and then clip the bottom front corners to meet the front
fascia. Install the side fascia.

Image
Install the 1/2" roof sheathing, starting with a full-width sheet at the
bottom edge of the roof. Fasten metal drip edge along the front edge
of the roof. Cover the roof with building paper, then add the drip edge
along the sides and top of the roof. Shingle the roof, and finish the
top edge with cut shingles or a solid starter strip.

Image
Cut and remove the bottom plate inside the door opening. Cut the
1 × 4 head jamb for the door frame at 57 1/8" and cut the side jambs
at 64". Fasten the head jamb over the sides with 2 1/2" deck screws.
Install 1 × 2 door stops 3/4" from the front edges of jambs, as shown
in the Door Jamb Detail (page 430). Install the frame in the door
opening, using shims and 10d casing nails.

Image
For each door, cut six 1 × 6 tongue-and-groove boards at 63 3/4". Fit
them together, then mark and trim the two end boards so the total
width is 27 5/8". Cut the 1 × 6 Z-brace boards following the Door
Elevation (page 430). The ends of the horizontal braces should be 1"
from the door edges. Attach the braces with construction adhesive
and 1 1/4" screws. Install each door with three hinges.

Image
Staple fiberglass insect mesh along the underside of the roof from
each side 2 × 6 rafter. Cut and install the 1 × 8 trim above the door,
overlapping the side door jambs about 1/4" on each side (see the
Overhang Detail, page 430).

Image
Rip vertical and horizontal trim boards to width, then notch them
to fit around the rafters, as shown in the Door Jamb Detail (page
430). Notch the top ends of the 1 × 10s to fit between the rafters and
install them. Add 1 × 8 trim horizontally between the 1 × 10s below
the door. Install the 1 × 4 corner trim, overlapping the pieces at the
rear corners.
TREEHOUSES & PLAY
STRUCTURES

T his chapter offers a chance

for the kids to get even
after all the time you’ve spent
building yourself that deck or
patio or some other major
landscape feature using the
project instructions from other
chapters in the book. Or maybe
you’re choosing to be proactive,
building the youngsters a play
structure from this chapter at the very beginning, in order to give
them something to do while you build that deck or patio or shed for
yourself.
This chapter offers something for every kid’s interest, with plans
ranging from a simple tree swing to an impressive treehouse with
enclosed walls, windows, and a weatherproof roof. You’ll find
complete building plans, clear step-by-step directions, and helpful
tips along the way.
When building projects for children, safety is always of utmost
concern. Always consult with local government to learn about any
applicable permit and inspection requirements, and never scrimp on
materials when it comes to investing in the safety of projects your
kids will use.

IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Open-air Treehouse
• Enclosed Treehouse
• Playground Safety
• Precut Playground Kit
• DIY Playset
• DIY Swingset
• Classic Tree Swing
• Skateboard Ramp
• Bocce Court
OPEN-AIR TREEHOUSE

T his house design could just as easily be called the All-ages

Treehouse. Adults will like it because they can move around
in the house without having to see their chiropractor the next day
and because the broad deck surface and ample headroom make it a
great venue for outdoor entertaining and everyday cocktails at
sundown. Kids will love it because, well, because it’s a treehouse,
but also because it’s large enough to fit loads of them. The open
sides are ideal for backyard games, and the deck makes the perfect
stage for picnics and campouts. Best of all, everyone can use the
treehouse at once, although this may require a willingness to dodge
water balloons or act as a captive on a pirate ship.
The house shown in this project has an 8 × 12-foot floor plan
and measures about 9 feet from the deck to the roof peak. It’s
supported along the front side by two posts and along the rear side
by two trees (see page 438), using special anchors designed
specifically for treehouses. The treehouse deck stands about eight
feet off the ground.
The instructions here provide a detailed overview of building
the house as shown, for this particular site. They can serve as a
general guide to help you design and build a similar house of your
own. However, all of the construction specifications for your
project must be geared for your specific house design, the intended
use of the house, the tree(s), and the building site, as well as any
applicable local building codes and zoning restrictions.
Water-resistant cushions are ideal for the open-air treehouse,
perfect for extra seat padding or just throwing on the ground—it's a
treehouse, after all.
The open-air treehouse combines the versatility of an elevated
deck with the shelter of a covered porch, but of course it’s far better
than both because it's found in the trees.
Open-air Treehouse
PLAN VIEW: PLATFORM FRAMING
FRONT ELEVATION
SIDE ELEVATION
DETAIL: LADDER
DETAIL: ROOF FRAMING
DETAIL: CEILING
 HOW TO BUILD AN OPEN-AIR TREEHOUSE

Use a level board as a visual reference to determine the best height

and location for your tree anchors.
Drill the pilot hole with a heavy-duty 1/2" drill (available at any rental
center). Brace yourself and pay attention to avoid injury with this
powerful tool.
Level the anchor carefully as it begins to bite into the tree. A big
pipe wrench (and maybe a cheater bar) is the key to getting the
anchor tight (below).
The GL anchor and its specially designed piloting bit. The middle
collar section on the anchor compresses into the tree to help prevent
rot and disease.
Nail three 2 × 10s together to create the built-up rear beam.
Stagger the nails between the upper and lower portions of the beam.
With the beam in position, add a nut to the end of each anchor
(using a washer, if applicable) to trap the bracket on the anchor.
Embed an anchor bolt into the wet concrete of each footing. The
bolt should be centered on the footing.
Build the front beam with two 2 × 12 boards, staggering 10d nails
with 16" spacing. Shape the ends with decorative cuts, if desired.
Level across from the top of the rear beam to mark the top cutoff
lines on the posts.
Use a square to extend the cutting lines across the post faces for
the top end cutoff and notches.
Fasten the posts to their bases. Make sure the base is tightened
down to the anchor bolt with the provided nut.
Fasten the front beam to the posts with pairs of carriage bolts
inserted through the posts and secured on the beam side with
washers and nuts.
Trace along the front beam to mark the top cuts and notches for
the knee braces. When installed, the faces of the posts and braces
are aligned.
Anchor the knee braces to the posts with lag screws driven straight
through the inside faces of the braces, roughly centered on the joint.

Use a scrap of 6 × 6 post as a spacer when marking the joist

layout and installing the joists. The roof posts should fit snugly
between the joist pairs.

Metal framing connectors create a strong connection between the

treehouse platform and the beams and are important for resisting
wind uplift.
Follow chalk lines to set the initial rows of decking (since you can’t
start at the edge of the platform). A few extra chalk lines can help
you stay on track during the installation.

Anchor the bottom ends of the roof posts with carriage bolts,
sandwiching the posts between the joists at either side.
Use a string line to ensure the posts are on the same plane across
each side of the treehouse.
Cut the ends of the pattern rafters at 33.7° and test-fit them on a
pair of roof posts, using a piece of 2 × 8 scrap to serve as the ridge
beam.
Mark the ridge beam for rafters, using the roof posts. Make an “X”
to the outside of each post marking to show where the rafter goes.
Interior rafter ties span across the rafters on the interior roof posts.
Their ends are cut to match the roof slope.
The gable-end rafter ties are combined with a strut to create a truss
detail. The strut is notched to fit around the ridge beam (below).
Tongue-and-groove roof decking is required for the relatively wide
spans of the rafters. Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for
gapping between panels.
A decorative layer of cedar plywood conceals roofing nails and
creates a finished ceiling. Notch the panels as needed to fit around
the roof framing.
Composition shingles make for an inexpensive, long-lasting roof.
Consider the shingle color carefully, as you’ll probably be looking at it
most of the year.
Install the rails with their top edges on the chalk lines. The 3" gap
below the bottom rail makes it easy to sweep off the treehouse deck.
Use a baluster and level to mark the sides of each baluster
location, and use a 2 × 4 block cut to length at 3 7/8" to set the gaps
between balusters.
Notch the caps to fit around the posts (inset), leaving about a 1 1/2"
overhang on the outside of the railing and a 1" overhang on the
inside.
Self-closing hinges keep the gate closed when it’s not in use—a
handy safety feature for anyone using the treehouse.
Mating notches in the caps and rails of the gate and treehouse
railing create safety stops that also prevent undue wear and tear on
the gate.
Access to this treehouse happens to be at the front, but it could
also be at either end or even the back, if you’d prefer a cleaner look
at the front.
Strategically placed accessories, such as swings and climbing
ropes, turn the treehouse into the best kind of backyard play
structure.
ENCLOSED TREEHOUSE

T his nicely proportioned house is a great example of what you

can do with one good, stout tree. And the design is simpler
than it looks. It starts with a square platform that’s framed around
the trunk and supported by knee braces at the corners. Apart from
the cutout for the door and entry deck, the house is just a box with
a gable roof, much like the houses you find in kids’ drawings. This
classic look is no coincidence—with its traditional lines and fully
enclosed interior, the treehouse has an especially homey feel, a
theme that’s enhanced by the Dutch door and playhouse-size entry
deck. The interior layout also lends itself to built-in accessories,
like shelves and tables.
A single-tree house of this size requires a large, mature tree. The
specimen must be healthy, of course, and should measure at least
five feet in circumference at its base. Because the tree alone will
bear the burden of the house and its occupants, it’s a good idea to
have it inspected by an arborist before making any serious
construction plans. Think about where you’d like to place the
house, so you can give special attention to the installation areas.
Note: The instructions here provide a detailed overview of
building the house as shown, for this particular site. They can serve
as a general guide to help you design and build a similar house of
your own. However, all of the construction specifications for your
project must be geared for your specific house design, the intended
use of the house, the tree, and the building site, as well as any
applicable local building codes and zoning restrictions.
A treehouse that feels like a home. Solid walls, sturdy windows
and doors, and some simple decorative touches add up to a cozy
retreat where kids can really let their imaginations run wild.
Self-closing hinges keep the gate shut when it’s not in use—a
handy safety feature for anyone using the treehouse.

Tools & Materials

Lag screws
Level
Nails or screws
Anchor brackets
Compass
Circular saw
Drill
Hammer
Tape measure
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
Gable House with Entry Deck

GABLE HOUSE WITH ENTRY DECK

PLATFORM FRAMING
FRONT ELEVATION
SIDE ELEVATION LEFT
FLOOR PLAN
BACK ELEVATION
SIDE ELEVATION RIGHT
 HOW TO BUILD AN ENCLOSED
TREEHOUSE

Anchor the lower beams to the center of the tree. Remember that
the lag screws should be just below center (top-to-bottom) on the
beams.
Install the upper beams, checking all of the beams for level as you
go. If necessary, use wood shims to make a beam stand plumb
against the tree (detail below).
Fasten the rim joists to the common joists with nails or screws.
Here, the interior common joists are centered between the outer
commons and the upper beams.
Secure the knee braces to the tree with anchor brackets (detail
below) and to the platform frame with toenailed screws or nails and
framing connectors.
Custom fit the decking boards around the tree by butting each
piece up to the tree and using a compass set at 2" to transfer the
tree’s contours to the board.
The left gable wall spans the width of the house and is centered on
the roof peak. The extra stud at each end is for installing interior
finishes.
Use ropes and a pulley, a block and tackle, or any other
mechanical aids to hoist the walls up to the platform.
Fasten the walls together at the corners with deck screws,
following the same plan you used for the dry assembly on the
ground.
Installing the ridge beam first makes it easy to mark and test-fit the
pattern rafters.
The rafters overhang the front and rear walls by about 8"
(measured horizontally) to create the traditional eaves.
The custom gable rafters are installed so their outside faces are
flush with the outside of the wall siding.
Salvaged windows with exterior trim are a breeze to install.
Others might call for some creative carpentry, but they’re well worth
the effort.
Preassembling a homemade window can save you some trips to
and from the treehouse, but it requires careful measuring of the
window opening.
This sample Dutch door shows the simple construction of tongue-
and-groove siding boards joined with 1 × 6 Z-bracing.
This simple railing is made with 2 × 4s and 2 × 2s anchored to the
platform framing and the house walls.
PLAYGROUND SAFETY

S afety is paramount to enjoying your backyard playground.

And safety starts in the basic planning stage. For example, if
you plan to build multiple play structures, keep at least nine feet of
space between them. Securely mount the structures or anchor them
to the ground and always follow manufacturer instructions.
In addition to planning your playground project wisely, you can
make your play area safer by observing some basic rules when
building it.
• Drive nailheads and set screwheads completely into the wood so
the heads are flush with the surfaces. Nails or screws that stick
out of the wood can pose a serious risk to children. When you’ve
finished building your project, examine it for fasteners that are
popping out. Also check for nails or screws that have gone
completely through boards and are sticking out the other side. If
that happens, clip the end off or grind it down flush with the
board.
• Countersink or counterbore holes for anchor bolts so the heads
and nuts are recessed.
• Crimp hooks with pliers so sharp edges are not exposed.
• Conduct regular inspections of the structures and look for unusual
wear and tear, loose boards or connections, and loose rails.
Replace hardware if needed, only with identical hardware.
Attention to safety details along with a thick cushion of soft mulch
around the entire play area ensures that all the landings will be
happy ones.

Playground Safety
For more in-depth information on playground safety, visit the following
websites:

• National Program for Playground Safety: uni.edu/playground

• US Consumer Product Safety Commission: cpsc.gov
Are Post Footings Necessary?

Pouring concrete footings to anchor structural components results in a

rock-solid playground, but the process adds hard work and expense.
Poured footings are not always necessary, especially if you’re building
a wide or low structure or using angled supports (like those used for
swingsets). Here’s a breakdown of the advantages and disadvantages of
pouring concrete post footings:
ADVANTAGES
• Creates a stable, permanent base that won’t tip or move or sag
• Anchors swingsets and other play equipment solidly
• Makes building on uneven ground easier
• Allows you to make tall, narrow structures and cantilevers without
danger of tipping or movement
• Structure can eventually be converted to a storage or garden shed
DISADVANTAGES
• Adds time and expense to the project, especially if you are building in
rocky or hard clay soil
• Structures that can’t be moved or disassembled easily may interfere
with future landscaping
 SECURING PLAYGROUND EQUIPMENT

Add a wide, stable base to playground structure supports. Stabilize

the base as much as possible by angling the supporting posts and
adding crosspieces. Add additional stability by driving and fastening
anchor stakes next to the base.
Screw-in anchors help keep playground structures from rocking or
tipping, though they can be difficult to install in hard clay or rocky
soil. Make sure anchors don’t create a tripping hazard.

Spread the Playground Mulch

According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, about 40,000
children a year visit hospital emergency rooms due to falls from
playground equipment. A safe playground will have a cushioning
surface, such as mulch or wood chips. Most home playgrounds,
however, are located directly on grassy lawns because that is an easy,
cost-free surface. However, any grass lawn will become compacted and
hard eventually, making falls dangerous. And, of course, you should
never build a playground on hard surfaces like concrete or asphalt.
The supports for playground structures need to be anchored on solid,
undisturbed ground, so the mulch layer is usually added after the
playground is constructed. Once all of the structural elements are
anchored, remove some dirt from around the play area—slightly slope
the grade away from the supports for the tower and swings. The mulch
should extend at least six feet out from all structures and 16 feet beyond
the support beam of a swing. The cushion layer should be installed over
landscape fabric to a depth of at least 12 inches. You can reach that
depth either by excavating or by adding landscape timbers around the
edges to contain the mulch.
PRECUT PLAYGROUND KIT

I f you want to design and build a backyard playground that meets

your needs, but you don’t want to start from scratch, a good
option is to buy a precut playground kit. Most home centers and a
number of Internet suppliers sell do-it-yourself playground
packages containing parts and hardware to make a complete play
area. Some of the kits include all of the wood, while others include
a list of lumber that you must buy with the set. Dozens of different
designs are available, from a basic swingset and slide to elaborate,
multilevel play areas with numerous extra features. Most
manufacturers design their systems so that optional features can be
easily added on.
Most playground systems are designed to be installed with
poured concrete footings, but in some cases you may be able to get
by with simply anchoring the posts (see page 465). If you choose
not to pour footings, it’s even more important for the ground
underneath the tower and swingset to be very level. To level and
smooth the playground area and to stop grass and weeds from
growing through it, cut out the sod in the play area, or at least in the
area where the structures go, before you begin building.
Some playground kits include all the necessary drill bits and
drivers. If your kit doesn’t, you’ll need a standard selection of
spade bits and drill bits, as well as countersink bits for #6 and #8
screws. You’ll also need a magnetized Phillips head driver for your
drill.
Note: The instructions in the following project are intended as a
general guide for installing a playground kit that includes precut
lumber. The type of playground you purchase may use different
materials and techniques than shown here.
Precut playground packages contain everything you need except
tools. A homeowner with basic skills can put together a play area like
this in one or two weekends.
Playground Kit

Tools & Materials

Framing square
Carpenter’s level
Socket wrench
Adjustable wrench
Drill/driver
Sawhorses
Shovels
Posthole digger (if screw-in anchors don’t work with your soil)
Stakes
Mason’s string
Line level
Power saw
Clamps
Ladder
Spacers
Screwdriver
Lag screws
Anchor screws
Playset kit
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
2 × 6 or 2 × 8
Brackets
Bolts
1 1/2", 2 1/2" deck screws
Tape measure
Swing hangers
1 1/2" panhead screws
Landscape fabric
Mulch
Screw-in anchors
 HOW TO INSTALL A PLAYGROUND KIT

Before you begin, properly prepare the installation area (see pages
464-465). Begin assembling a tower. Towers are the principal
structural elements in any playground kit. They support slides and
other accessories. Generally, they are comprised of fairly simple
frames and beams. For the kit shown here, assemble the framework
of the tower one side at a time, and then join the sides together on
top of flat pieces of 2 × 6 or 2 × 8. Use the drilling template included
in the kit as a guide for driving countersunk screws. Locate screws
carefully—metal brackets that cover the screwheads are often added
later, so the screws have to be positioned carefully. Raise the tower.

Screw the brackets to the tower frame corners, making sure that
the bolt hole on the long side of the bracket lines up with the centers
of the 2 × 4s behind it. Using the large holes in the brackets as
guides, drill holes for the bolts. To avoid splintering the back sides,
stop drilling as soon as the bit starts to poke through the back, then
finish drilling from the other side. Check to make sure everything is
still square, and then install and tighten the bolts.
Install the center joists that connect the platform frames, fastening
them with countersunk 2 1/2" deck screws. Make certain all
screwheads are fully seated beneath the wood surface.
Install the deckboards with 1 1/2" deck screws driven into
countersunk pilot holes, starting with the two outside pieces. Try to
make sure the ends of the deck boards are aligned during
installation—clamping a stop block or spacer block to the deck-board
support will help align your workpieces. The drainage gaps between
the deck boards must be less than 1/4".
Extend the tower walls to the full height with additional 2 × 4
pieces. Use the drill guide or template (if provided with your kit) to
ensure regular alignment of all screws.
Install the outer framework of 2 × 4s to support the roof of the
playground structure, using corner brackets provided by the kit
manufacturer.
Add additional framing to strengthen the sides of the tower. The
framing on the right will help support the swingset and the climbing
bar and climbing wall; the 2 × 4s on the left are used to support the
slide.
Install the bottom railings and the top back and side railings for the
tower structure. Clamp a straight piece of wood on top of (or
underneath) the railing at the 1" point to create the setback and to
make installation easier. Cut spacers to make the gap even, but
check the gap before screwing in the last few boards, just in case,
and adjust if necessary.
Attach railings, siding, and trim. Install the front railing first, using
a 3/16" spacer. Then, add the trim pieces. This step is easier if you tilt
the structure backwards to the ground—but don’t try this without a
helper.
Install the rest of the roof frame. Use clamps to hold pieces in
position before attaching them. Check the center vertical pieces with
a carpenter’s level to make sure they are plumb.
Begin building the swingset. The swing structure shown here is
supported by a pair of angled posts in an A-frame configuration on
the end farther from the tower, and a single angled leg on the tower
end. Fasten the three legs of the swingset together (they are made
with doubled 2 × 4s), and then bolt on the triangular bracket for each
leg. Construct the assembly by bolting the triangular brackets
together and then screwing on the crosspiece. Add the small
brackets to the inside of the crosspiece, with the short legs against
the crosspiece (inset). Trim the leg bottoms so they will lie flat on the
ground.
Join the beams and legs. Screw the 2 × 6 beam pieces to the
brackets, making sure the legs are exactly parallel and square to the
beam. Drill the 3/8" holes for the bolts using the brackets as a guide.
Then screw the second layer of 2 × 6s to the first with 2 1/2" screws.
Attach the swing hardware. First, turn the swing assembly over
and place it on sawhorses. Drill guide holes and fasten the sides
together with bolts. Drill guide holes for the swing hangers and lag
screws and install them so that the moving hanger swings
perpendicular to the beam.
Add the swingset to the tower. Lift the swingset into place and
fasten it to the tower with a bolt through the swing beam and a 2 × 4
crosspiece near the base fastened with metal angles and bolts.
Installing the climbing wall. Attach the climbing wall supports to
the tower frame with the provided brackets. The ends of the supports
are angle-cut at the top and the bottom. Attach the top and bottom
crossboards to the outer supports and then center the middle
support board and attach it by driving deck screws through the
crossboards and into the support.
Add the remaining crossboards in the climbing wall, working down
from the top and making sure the boards are fitted tightly together.
Start building the climbing bar assembly. The climbing bars
function as a ladder that is mounted to the tower on the side
opposite from the climbing wall. Assemble the climbing bar
standards with four triangular metal brackets included with the kit.
The stops on the sides of the brackets that contact the standard will
set the correct angle for the standards if the boards are tight against
the stops.
Attach the climbing bars to the standards, making sure the
standards are parallel and oriented correctly. Use 1 1/4" panhead
screws to attach the bars at 12" intervals on the bottom leg and at 10
3/4" intervals along the top (or as directed by the instructions for your
kit).
Connect the climbing bar to the tower. First, dig holes into the
play surface at the correct locations for the legs of the climbing bar
standards. Set the legs into the 2"-deep holes (inset), and then
fasten the top ends of the standards to the tower with brackets and
lag screws.
Anchor all sides of the swingset, along with the climbing bar and
climbing wall, using screw-in anchors (see page 465). If the anchors
don’t work properly in your soil type, dig a 2-ft.-deep posthole, fill it
with concrete, and set the anchor in that. Bolt the anchor to the
structure with 3/8 × 1 1/2" lag screws.
Attach the slide. First, position the slide (left photo) and then attach
it to the tower at the top with fasteners as provided (or
recommended) by the manufacturer. Then, bolt the slide at the base
to a screw-in anchor. Tip: Attach the bottom of the slide to a 4 × 4
spacer and then attach the spacer to a screw-in anchor (right photo).
This provides a solid footing for the slide while raising it so the
bottom is not completely covered by groundcover or mulch.
Add other accessories, including swings, the roof, and the climbing
rope. You’ll need to drill access holes for the climbing rope in the
climbing wall. Add approved groundcover (see page 465).
DIY PLAYSET

I f you want a playset, designing and building your own from

scratch is not as easy or fast as buying a precut system, but if
you have the tools and know-how you can save money and create a
more unique and imaginative playset by doing it yourself.
The simplest way to get started is to design and build the
playground in separate parts, beginning with a simple, rectangular
platform. You can then add slides, a swingset, a climbing rope, and
other features as your time and budget allow. Before you start,
mark the area where the play structure will go in your yard, then
add additional area for playground mulch (at least six feet out in all
directions). Cut away the sod in this area and level the ground—
preferably by digging out soil instead of filling in, since fill will
continue to compress even after it is compacted.

Playset Hardware
Although it’s a little more work initially, the best way to make sure
your playground will be solid and stable is to pour concrete footings
and anchor the platform posts to the footings. Ideally, the footings
should extend below the frostline (check with your local building
department if you do not know your frostline depth). If you pour
concrete footings, make sure that the concrete is covered by several
inches of dirt or playground mulch to prevent injuries.
When building your playset, you can set the posts into postholes,
add a few inches of gravel, and then fill the hole with concrete, or you
can set the posts into exterior-rated metal post bases that are anchored
to the concrete.

Note: Metal post bases are designed to work in groups and are not a
good choice for single posts or even post pairs. They do not provide
sufficient side-to-side rigidity.
If your structure is very wide or low to the ground, you can forego
footings and instead bolt the posts to a framework of 2 × 6s (or larger),
which will spread the weight over a large area and keep the platform
stable. If you attach a swing or cantilevered beam to the platform, use
one of these methods to hold the structure in place: fasten long screw
anchors at the corners; attach structure to concrete footings; or weigh
structure down with an attached sandbox.

Hardware and equipment specially designed for playgrounds can be purchased in

kits or as needed. In addition to saving time, using engineered hardware is a safe
method for designing critical joinery. For example, if you are wondering how many lag
bolts you need to make a post/beam connection on a swingset, you’ll find the easiest
answer is zero if you purchase an engineered A-frame bracket instead. A-frame
bracket (A), screw-in anchors (B), swing hardware (C), swing chain and seat (D),
galvanized joist hangers and brackets (E), hot-dipped galvanized fasteners (F), hot-
dipped glavanized eye bolt (G).
Save money by designing and building your own play structure
using standard building materials and your own ingenuity.
Playset

Materials
(4) 4 × 4" post bases
(4) 8"-dia. × 2-ft. tube forms
Concrete
Landscape fabric
(1) 1 × 3" × 8 ft.
(1 lb.) 2" deck screws
(2 lb.) 2 1/2" deck screws
(44) 3/8 × 5" carriage bolts, washers, nuts
Joist hanger brackets and nails
(8) 2 3/4" metal corners
(2) 1 1/4 × 8 5/8 × 3 9/16" u-shaped metal straps
(6) 3/8 × 6" carriage bolts, washers, nuts
(1) 3/8 × 5" eyebolt with washer, lock washer, nut
18 ft. 3/4" thick rope
Metal thimble for rope
Cutting List
Base & Platform
Key A
No. 4
Dimension 3 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 10'
Material Pine (PT)

Key B
No. 2
Dimension 1 1/2 × 7 1/4 × 51"
Material "

Key C
No. 2
Dimension 1 1/2 × 7 1/4 × 69"
Material "

Key D
No. 2
Dimension 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 51"
Material "

Key E
No. 4
Dimension 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 58"
Material "

Key F
No. 2
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 48"
Material "

Key G
No. 4
Dimension 5/4 × 5 1/2 × 58"
Material Decking (PT)

Key H
No. 14
Dimension 5/4 × 5 1/2 × 42"
Material Decking (PT)

Ladder
Key I
No. 2
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 61 1/2"
Material Pine (PT)

Key J
No. 4
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 17"
Material "

Climbing Rope
Key K
No. 1
Dimension 3 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 7'
Material Pine (PT)

Key L
No. 1
Dimension 3 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 30"
Material "
 HOW TO BUILD A DIY PLAYSET

Lay out the project area, including the required excavation of

surface materials for the buffer zone around the playset. Use
batterboards and mason’s string to outline the area, making sure the
corners are square. Tie a second set of strings to the squared layout
strings so they intersect directly over the centers of the post
locations.
Mark digging points on the ground directly below post locations.
Untie the mason’s strings. Note: Contact your local utilities company
to have them mark buried gas, plumbing, or electrical lines before
you start digging.
Dig holes for concrete footings using a posthole digger or a power
auger. Where feasible, dig at least a few inches past the frostline for
your area.
Fill the forms with concrete, tie the mason’s string back onto the
batterboards and level them, and then set J-bolts into the concrete
directly beneath the centers of the planned post locations.
Set the metal post bases and washers over the bolts and hand-
tighten the nuts (a standoff base is designed to elevate the post
bottom to eliminate ground contact while still holding the post
securely). Leave one side of the post base open so you have access
with an open-end wrench to tighten each nut after trimming and
aligning the post tops.
Fasten the bottoms of the posts to the standoff hardware with 10d
galvanized nails, joist hanger nails or other fasteners as specified by
the post base manufacturer. All predrilled guide holes in the
hardware should be filled with a fastener. Plumb and brace the
posts. Note: The tops of the 4 × 4 posts should be high enough that
they can all be trimmed back to final height later.
Attach 2 × 6 pressure-treated frame boards to the posts so the
bottoms are level with one another and slightly above grade. Cut the
2 × 6s so they form a complete frame around the posts once
installed. Use clamps and deck screws to tack the members in place
until they are leveled and located exactly where you want them. After
drilling the bolt guide holes, use a 1 1/4" spade bit to counterbore
1/2"-deep holes. Wrap masking tape around the spade bit to mark the
1/2" depth.
Install landscape fabric. To prevent weeds and grass from growing
through the sand, spread landscape fabric over the ground inside the
structure area and staple it to the inside surfaces of the 2 × 6 frame.
Hold the top of the fabric back about 3" from the tops of the frame
boards. For extra holding power, use thin wood strips as retainers for
stapling or nailing the fabric.
Attach the platform side boards so the tops are approximately 59"
above grade. First, tack the side boards to the 4 × 4 posts with a 2
1/2" deck screw at each end. Make sure the sides and all other
members are level and plumb and then drill two bolt holes at each
end for 3/8 × 5" carriage bolts. The end of each hole that will receive
the nut and washer should have a 1 1/4"-dia. × 1/2" deep
counterbore. Do not counterbore for carriage bolt heads. Tighten
nuts onto the carriage bolts with a socket wrench or impact driver.
Trim post tops. Identify the post with the lowest post base and
measure up on that post to the finished post height for the project.
Mark the height and then use a laser level (or a straight board with a
carpenter’s level attached to it) to transfer the post top height to the
other posts. After the frame and platform are installed, trim the posts
along the lines. A cordless circular saw is a good tool for trimming
post tops.
Add the platform support joists, using joist hanger hardware to
support the 2 × 6 joist material between the side boards. Space the
joists equally. The tops of the joists should be flush with the tops of
the side boards.
Cut pieces of 5/4 decking (actual thickness is 1") for the platform
and install them with deck screws driven into the support joists.
Arrange the boards on the joist supports first and adjust them so the
gaps between boards are equal, consistent, and do not exceed 1/4".
Drive screws in a regular pattern, as the screwheads will be visible.
Fasten 2 × 6 railings to the posts on the sides of the structure,
using 3/8 × 5" carriage bolts. The tops of the railings should be 8 ft.
above ground. Counterbore the posts so the nuts and washers are
recessed. Also install 2 × 4 railings on the other two sides (narrow
sides) at 111" high. Paint or stain the playset with exterior-grade
paint if desired.
Fill the framed base enclosure with sand to create a sandbox (or
use mulch or pea gravel, if you prefer).

Safety Tip
For safety, add wide balusters made from deck boards to the sides. The gaps
between boards should not exceed 3". Leave openings for ladders, slides, and any
other accessories you wish to attach.
 HOW TO BUILD A LADDER

A wooden ladder provides easy, safe access up into the fort portion
of your project. This ladder is sturdy and simple to build. You’ll need:
(2) 2 × 4 × 61 1/2", (4) 2 × 4 × 17", (1) 2 × 4 × 24", and (8) 2 3/4"
metal corners.
Measure and cut the ladder standards from a pressure-treated 2 ×
4. Look for tight-grained lumber with no visible defects. The steps
are set at a 15° angle so they’ll be level when the angled standards
are set on flat ground. The back edges of the standards at the top
are cut at a 75° angle.
Attach the steps. Nail one plate of each metal corner brace to the
ladder sides at the correct spacing (the steps generally are 12" apart
on-center) and then nail the bracket to the underside of the step
using joist hanger nails.
Attach a ladder base to the bottom of the ladder to function as a
spreader. Screw the 24"-long base to the bottoms of the ladder sides
with deck screws, then set the ladder in place on a bed of gravel.
Secure the ladder to the playset deck through the back with two deck
screws per side driven into the frame.
 HOW TO ATTACH A SLIDE

A slide is perhaps the most necessary accessory for any playset.

Although it is possible to build your own from scratch, the likelihood
of obtaining satisfactory results is low. Any building center that
carries playset parts will also sell plastic slides in many styles,
colors, and sizes. You’ll need a slide, three #14 × 1 1/4" panhead
screws, a screw-in ground anchor, and a 3/8 × 1" hex bolt with
washers and nuts.
Mark the slide anchor location onto the ground using a cap nail.
When using a thick bed of playground mulch, raise the bottom of the
slide by attaching it to a 4 × 4. This 60" slide is secured to the
playset tower so the top edge is 60" above ground. To attach the
slide temporarily, drive #14 × 1 1/4" panhead screws through the
screw holes in the slide lip.
Drive an anchor for the slide base into the ground, after removing
the slide, at the post marked in Step 1. The eye hook at the top
should be aligned with the bolt hole in the slide.
Reinstall the slide, driving the fasteners through the top lip and into
the playset structure. Use an exterior bolt (3/8 × 1" is used here) to
attach the base of the slide to the anchor you’ve driven for it. The
base should be resting on solid ground (not on mulch or other loose
materials) or a spacer, as shown.
 HOW TO ADD A CLIMBING ROPE

A climbing rope can be attached to a cantilevered support beam

that is securely affixed to the top of your play structure.
Attach a 7-ft.-long 4 × 4 to the top of the playset structure to
support a climbing rope. Use joist hanger nails and U-shaped metal
straps or long metal straps to fasten the cantilevered 4 × 4 to the
post tops.
Add a 4 × 4 brace with a 45° angle cut at each end. The brace is
attached with a 3/8 × 6" bolt at each end and reinforced with the
same U-shaped strap hardware used to attach the beam.
Hang the climbing rope. A 3/8 × 5" eyebolt can be attached to the
cantilevered end of the beam, about 6" in, for an easy tie-off point.
You can purchase fancier hardware, such as a swivel hook. Tie
knots every foot or so in the rope for better gripping while climbing.
Anchor the bottom of the rope to a screw-in anchor or a board
that’s bolted to the base of the fort. The rope should not hang loose
for safety reasons. If you are tying the rope to a screw-in anchor, use
a large enough knot to cover the top of the anchor screw eye.
DIY SWINGSET

S wingsets are fairly simple projects to build, and can be

anchored to a larger playset for more stability, as is the case
with the model seen here. If your swingset will be freestanding,
anchor all four legs with screw-in anchors. Swings can be higher or
longer, as long as the A-frame supports are widely spaced and
securely bolted together.
Swing seats, chains, and hardware usually come as a package.
Generally, the plastic-encased chain is easier to work with and has
a greater chance of success than rope, which is difficult to adjust
and may stretch or loosen over time.
Swings are virtually a requirement in any playset. This swingset is
bolted to a DIY playset, but it can easily be modified into a
freestanding swinging structure.
Swingset

Tools & Materials

Pencil
Circular saw
Protractor
Power miter saw
Drill/driver
Sawhorses
Clamps
Stepladder
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
(8) 3/8 × 5" carriage bolts, nuts, washers
(2) 3/8 × 6" carriage bolts, nuts, washers
(2) Swingworks A-frame brackets (see Resources, page 553)
Swing seats, chains, and hardware

Cutting List
Key A
No. 4
Dimension 3 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 104"
Material Pine (PT)

Key B
No. 1
Dimension 3 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 8'
Material "

Key C
No. 2
Dimension 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 6'
Material "
 HOW TO BUILD A SWINGSET

Mark the posts for cutting. If you are using A-frame brackets
(strongly recommended), purchase the hardware beforehand and
mark the posts using the A-frame bracket as a guide. If you are not
using brackets, use a protractor or a speed square as a gauge to
mark the tops of the posts at around 65° so they will meet to form a
stable A-shaped structure with sufficient leg spread.

Cut the long angles on each post with a circular saw, then square
off the top edge with a power miter saw or circular saw.
Bolt the A-frame brackets onto the 4 × 6, and then predrill the
holes for the eye bolts that hold the swing. Use a long spade bit for
the holes.
Assemble the legs. Lay the 4 × 4 legs for one side on a flat area,
set the 4 × 6 on top of them, and then bolt the legs to the brackets.
Use the fasteners recommended by the hardware manufacturer.
You’ll need a helper to hold the 4 × 6 steady.
Attach the second leg. Use a stepladder or helpers to hold the 4 ×
4s steady and in place as you finish bolting into the brackets.
Clamp the 2 × 6 ties in position. Drill the bolt holes, and then
counterbore the holes on the inside. Bolt the 2 × 6 on with 5"
carriage bolts.
Anchor the swingset. Tack the swingset structure in place against
the platform of the adjoining playset. Using a long drill bit, drill
through each 4 × 4 leg and bolt the swing to the platform.
Hang the swings using the mounting hardware and chains or rope
supplied with or recommended by the manufacturer. Test to make
sure the ground clearance is adequate and adjust as necessary.
CLASSIC TREE SWING

A rope hung from a large tree may be a simple swinging

apparatus, but kids and even adults will find it completely
irresistible. The rope may be hung with just a knot at the bottom for
gripping or it may support a swing seat or an old tire.
All that is really required to build a rope swing is a healthy tree,
a length of heavy rope, and the ability to tie a good knot. Use one-
half-inch diameter or larger rope (larger is better) made of nylon or
hemp. Tie a few knots in the bottom of the rope as grips and to
prevent unraveling, even if you plan to add a swing seat. Watch the
rope for signs of wear, and test it often. Make sure smaller children
understand how to use it safely, and that they should never make
loops in it.
When siting your swing, look for a tree that has a sturdy limb at
least eight inches in diameter and nearly horizontal. The limb
should be at least 10 feet above ground and the swinging area
should be free and clear of all obstacles, including the tree trunk,
which should be at least six feet from the point where the swing is
tied (farther if the rope is longer than 10 feet). Landing and access
areas should be clear of hazards and have shock-absorbing mulch
or ground cover. Do not allow small children to use the swing
without adult supervision.
A tree swing can be installed practically anywhere that you have a
tree, clear swinging area, and safe spots for landing and access.

Tools & Materials

1/2"-dia. rope or larger (nylon or hemp)
5/8"-dia. hot-dipped galvanized eyebolt with washer and nut
Metal thimble (to match rope)
Old tire (optional) or swing
Drill and spade bit for eye bolt
Stepladder
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
 HOW TO HANG A TREE SWING

Attach a 5/8" galvanized eyebolt through the center of a branch

that’s at least 8" in diameter. Insert a thimble through the eye bolt;
then tie the rope onto the eyebolt, threading it through the thimble to
make the top curve. This is a tree-friendly approach to hanging a
swing
Option: Tie the rope to the tree. If the branch is too high to easily
reach with a ladder, throw a small cord with a weight over the
branch, then use it to pull the rope up. Tie a loop in the end of the
rope and pull it tight. Test the knot to make sure it is secure and does
not slip. Note: Wrapping a rope or chain around a tree limb is okay
as a short-term swinging solution, but it can actually cause more
long-term harm to the tree than an eyebolt. Prolonged friction from a
tight rope can eventually start to strangle the limb by cutting through
the bark.
Hang the tire or swing seat. Swings are an excellent use for an old
tire, but avoid steel-belted types with exposed steel strands, and
clean the tire thoroughly before using it. Drill large holes in the tread
of the tire to drain water away (inset). Do not use hard objects or
objects with sharp corners (such as wood planks) as tree swings—
they can cause damage or injury.

Rope Selection
Use 1/2"-dia. or larger nylon or hemp rope for a rope swing. Hemp is a traditional
rope for swings, but will eventually start to rot if left out year round. Nylon is almost
indestructible, but will stretch slightly and is more expensive than hemp. Nylon is
available in fun colors. A 12" galvanized steel eyebolt with thimble inserted into the eye
offers a safe, tree-friendly hanging method.
SKATEBOARD RAMP

B ecause good places to practice can be few and far between,

every skateboarder dreams of having a skateboard ramp of
his or her own. Sidewalks may get dull, city streets are dangerous,
and most public areas are rarely skateboarder-friendly; but your
own ramp in your own yard is always ready and available.
This skateboard ramp (knowledgeable boarders would describe
it as a mini half-pipe ramp) is a fun, challenging, and safe place to
learn new skills—and it offers a softer landing than a hard concrete
sidewalk. It’s also fun to build and can be constructed in two to
four days using only standard hand and power tools.
This 4-foot-high ramp measures 24 feet long by 8 feet wide. It is
built in three sections: a pair of curved ramps on each end and a flat
stretch in between. To keep the plywood that forms the curves from
wicking up moisture and rotting, build it on top of concrete
footings or pads. If you build it on a flat driveway or patio, set the
corners and center transitions on concrete pads to keep the wood
dry.
Skateboarding is a dangerous activity on ramps or anywhere
else. Always wear a helmet, kneepads, and other protective
clothing and equipment when skateboarding. Note: This ramp is
based on a free plan designed by Rick Dahlen and available for
downloading.
This skateboard ramp is built in three sections from plywood and 2
× 4s. The curved surface is created with a double layer of bendable
3/8" exterior-grade plywood.

Tools & Materials

Jigssaw
Power miter saw
Circular saw
Trammel
Sander
Paint or wood preservative
3/4" exterior plywood
3/8" exterior plywood (sanded)
2 × 4 lumber (pressure-treated)
2 × 4 lumber (no. 2 or better)
Deck screws (1 5/8, 2, 2 1/2")
Lag screws (3/8 × 3") with washers
Carriage bolts (3/8 × 4") with washers and nuts
#6 panhead screws (1 1/2")
Schedule 40 PVC tubing (2" dia.)
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO BUILD A SKATEBOARD RAMP

Mark the curves for the ramp sides using a modified trammel. First,
lay two sheets of 3/4"-thick exterior plywood next to each other on a
flat surface. The long edges should be touching, with the ends flush.
Cut a thin strip of wood to 8 ft. long and tack one end 3 1/2" up from
one of the back ends. Measure 7 ft.-6" from the point where the
trammel strip is tacked and drill a 3/8"-dia. guide hole for a pencil.
Insert a pencil into the guide hole and trace a curve on the plywood.
Mark four pieces of plywood this way.
Cut out the curves using a jigsaw equipped with a fast wood-cutting
blade. Watch the lines carefully as you cut to avoid drifting away
from the curve, and make sure both the workpiece and the waste are
well supported. Setting the plywood on 2 × 4 sleepers creates
access space for the jigsaw blade.
Cut notches for the coping pipe at the top of each curved plywood
upright, using a jigsaw. The notches allow the PVC coping pipe that
is used to overhang the ramp slightly.
Build the ramp side assemblies. Cut the 2 × 4 spreaders to length
using a power miter saw equipped with a stop block for uniform
lengths. Install the spreaders between pairs of ramp sides at
intervals of approximately 8". Drive several 2 1/2" deck screws
through the plywood and into the ends of the spreaders at each joint.
Bevel the top spreaders. Two spreaders are butted together at the
top of each ramp to create a cradle for the coping tube (here, a piece
of 2" PVC pipe). Butt a spreader up against the face of the top
spreader in each ramp and mark a bevel cut on the edge so you can
trim the spreader to be flush with the plywood base. Rip the bevel
cut on a table saw or clamp the workpiece securely to a support
board and cut the bevel with a straightedge guide and a circular saw.
Set the saw blade angle to match the bevel angle.
Construct the 2 × 4 platform for the flat middle area in two sections
and then fasten the sections together with deck screws. Alternate
driving directions between frames to create a stronger joint.
Join all the curved and flat sections with deck screws, aligning the
edges carefully. By this time, you should have moved the parts to the
installation area and confirmed that the area is flat. Ideally, the ramp
should be installed on a concrete slab or concrete footings that
minimize ground contact.
Add the coping tube to the tops of the ramps—we used 2"-dia.
Schedule 40 PVC tubing, but you can use rigid conduit or water pipe
if you prefer metal. Drill eight evenly spaced 3/16" holes through the
coping, then enlarge the entry holes to 1/2". Fasten the coping to the
beveled top spreaders with 1 1/2", #6 panhead screws.
Install a layer of 3/4" plywood to the flat areas of the ramp using 2"
deck screws driven every 8" into the platform frames. Choose
exterior-rated plywood with a sanded face facing upward to create a
smooth skateboarding surface. Make sure joints between panels fall
over 2 × 4 supports and make sure all screw heads are recessed
slightly below the wood surface.
Attach a double layer of 3/8" plywood to the curved parts of the
ramp. Standard 3/4" plywood is too thick to bend along the ramp
curves, so we used two layers of 3/8" plywood, which is limber
enough to manage the gradual curves of the ramp. Make sure the
seams for both layers are offset by at least 18" and that all joints fall
over 2 × 4s. Leave 1/8" gaps between sheets for expansion and
drainage. Attach with 1 5/8" deck screws driven every 8". Tip: To help
the plywood bend more easily, dampen the reverse side.
At the joint between the coping and the deck, spread a bead of
caulk along the top edge of the first layer to keep water from wicking
in between the sheets and rotting the wood. Caulk the gap between
the coping tube and the first course before you butt the second
course of plywood up to the coping. Fasten the plywood with 2" deck
screws. Tip: For a better joint, bevel-rip the top edge of the second
course slightly.
Bolt 2 × 4" × 4-ft. posts to the back of each platform using 3/8 × 4"
carriage bolts. Attach an additional 2 × 4" × 4-ft. corner post at each
side to create L-shaped corners. Draw the corner post boards
together with 2 1/2" deck screws, closing the joint.
Install horizontal rails between the posts and then top-off each end
rail system with a 2 × 4 cap plate attached with 2 1/2" deck screws.
Sand the plywood to eliminate roughness and splinters, and set
any protruding screws beneath the surface of the plywood. Vacuum
the dust off, then coat all wood with paint or wood preservative. For
best protection and ease of cleaning, coat the entire ramp with two
or three thin coats of gloss exterior paint.
BOCCE COURT

L ike many sports and games, bocce can be played casually on

any reasonably level lawn with a minimum of rules,
depending on how flexible you and your playing companions are.
But if you are serious about playing bocce as a pastime and you
have the space in your yard, consider building a regulation bocce
court with a smooth, flat surface and a permanent border.
Developed in Italy as a variation of an ancient Roman game and
then spread around the world, bocce is played at clubs, public
courts, and backyards all over the world. Although not an Olympic
sport, various bocce federations and clubs organize tournaments for
enthusiastic amateurs, and competition can be fierce.
Official bocce courts for tournament play are 13 feet wide by 91
feet long, but recreational courts can be anywhere from 8 to 14 feet
wide and 60 to 91 feet long. If you’re trying to squeeze a court into
your backyard, you can adjust those measurements as needed.
Often the game is played without a court at all, or with an irregular-
shaped court that accommodates the dimensions and shape of your
yard. Standard courts are made from gravel topped with a fine clay
or shell mixture and surrounded by a low wood wall, with the depth
and composition of gravel and the construction of the wood wall
determined by local climate and soil conditions.
Borders should be made of wood, and can be constructed of 4 ×
4s, 4 × 6s, 2 × 10s, or other combinations of sizes. No matter which
size you use, the border should be protected from frost heave and
moisture, either by anchoring it to 4 × 6 posts set in concrete below
the frost line or by building it on a thick bed of gravel.
Large, pressure-treated timbers like 6 × 6s and 6 × 8s make an
excellent border, but these can be difficult to work with unless
you’re using a bobcat. You can substitute built-up layers of 2×
lumber and 4 × 4s instead, overlapping seams and nailing and
bolting them together. Bolt or screw them together from the
outside, so that there are no visible fasteners on the inside of the
court.

Bocce is a popular backyard game that has been around for

centuries. It can be played free-form in any backyard, but for the truly
authentic bocce experience you’ll want a hard-surface bocce court.

Tools & Materials

4 × 6 pressure-treated timbers
2 × 10 pressure-treated timbers
1 1/2 to 2"-dia. drainage rock
Compactable gravel
Tennis court clay, crushed oyster shells, or similar blend
Lag bolts, washers, and nuts
2 1/2" deck screws
Construction adhesive
Posthole digger
Gravel compactor
Maul
Circular saw
Concrete mix
Drill and spade bits
Laser level
Stakes
Mason’s string
Flat nose spade
Shovel
Rake
Trowel
Power tamper
Construction adhesive
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Frame the court with wood planks or timbers supported by frost
footings or a thick gravel pad. Build the court surface from coarse
gravel topped with finer, crushed limestone or similar stone, topped
with crushed oyster shells, tennis clay or other similar material.

How to Play Bocce

Bocce is played between two players or two teams of up to four players
each. Eight large balls and one small ball called a “pallino” are used.
The pallino is thrown out first. The object of the game is to get one of
the large balls as close as possible to the pallino. Knocking the other
team’s balls away from the pallino is acceptable. For a much more in-
depth version of the rules, along with playing strategies and penalties,
visit www.boccestandardsassociation.org and the United States Bocce
Federation at www.bocce.com.
Bocce is played with a set of eight bocce balls and one target ball. Introductory sets
made from composites can be purchased for less than $50. A traditional set of bocce
balls made from clay and imported from Italy costs considerably more, but is a near-
necessity if you develop a serious attachment to the game.
 HOW TO BUILD A BOCCE COURT

Find or create a level area in your yard and stake out the corners
of the bocce court. See previous page for discussion of court
dimensions. Strip back the sod from the court area with a sod cutter
or a flat nose spade.
Excavate the topsoil in the court area. A regulation bocce court
should be dug out a minimum of 10" so the proper subbase material
can be put in. If your plans are more casual, you can cheat this step
a little as long as the ground in your yard is not soft enough that the
court will sink.
Dig postholes. To support the walls (and prevent them from moving)
set pressure-treated 4 × 6 landscape timbers every 4 ft. around the
perimeter of the court. Ideally, the timbers (installed vertically) should
extend past the frostline for your area. The tops will be trimmed to
about 6" above grade after they’re set.
Set the 4 × 6 timbers into the post holes, with a 4 to 6" layer of
drainage gravel at the bottom. Fill around the timbers with concrete,
sloping the tops to shed water. After all of the posts are set and the
concrete is dry, use a laser level to mark level cutting lines on all the
post tops and then trim them to height with a circular saw or
reciprocating saw.
Option: After cutting the posts to height, use a circular saw set at
45°, a planer, or a trim router with a chamfer bit to cut chamfer
profiles into the tops of the posts. Cut the outer edge and side edges
of each post. Do not cut a chamfer on the side that will butt against
the court walls.
Spread a 4 to 6" layer of drainage rock, such as 1 1/2" river rock,
onto the court. Cover this with a 4 to 6" layer of compactable gravel
and tamp the gravel thoroughly with a power tamper. Add more
gravel and tamp until you have attained a very firm base that is at or
slightly below ground level.
Build the walls. Lay pressure-treated 2 × 10 lumber around the
perimeter inside the posts. This first layer of the wall should be laid
on edge, with the end seams falling at post locations. Fasten the
boards to the posts with counterbored lag bolts, washers, and nuts.
Then, attach a second layer of 2 × 10 inside the first layer. Use
heavy duty construction adhesive and 2 1/2" deck screws driven
through the outer layer and into the inner layer.
Add a 1 to 2"-thick top layer of court clay, crushed oyster shells or
other suitable medium. Here, crushed stone is being raked in
preparation for compaction. Some top-dress layers do not require
tamping, as the material will settle naturally. If the surface remains
loose, however, you can use a power compactor to harden the
surface so the bocce balls will roll more easily.
OUTDOOR FURNISHINGS &
ACCESSORIES

T he earlier chapters in The

Complete Outdoor Builder
mostly involved the hardscape
for your yard—the permanent
structural elements that turn
your landscape into space where
meaningful family living is
possible. But just as your home
is not very livable if it consists
only of rooms with walls and
floors, your outdoor landscape needs furnishings and accessories to
become truly functional.
This final chapter gives you complete plans and instructions for
building a dozen of the most useful and basic landscape accessories
—the projects that will put the finishing touches on your yard.
Some are self-contained yard elements that serve recreational or
functional purposes, such as the Backyard Firepit or the Mailbox
Stand. Others are useful for landscape gardeners of any skill level,
such as Raised Planting Beds, the Compost Bin, or two different
plans for Cold Frames. Other projects, though, are offered as
completing touches for other major projects from earlier in the
book. Your newly constructed deck, for example, will become
uniquely yours with the addition of Deck Planters or a Deck Swing.
Or a Privacy Screen might be just the touch for finishing your
patio.
 There are, of course, hundreds of outdoor furnishings and
landscape accessories you can build yourself. These 12 are just an
introduction to teach you the necessary skills and to show you
what’s possible.

IN THIS CHAPTER:
• Deck Planters
• Privacy Screen
• Mailbox Stand
• Porch Swing
• Simple Potting Bench
• Compost Bin
• Backyard Firepit
• Classic Garden Bridge
• Cold Frame Box
• Jumbo Cold Frame
DECK PLANTERS

W hat better way to truly integrate a deck with your

landscaping than to introduce plants right on top of the
surface? Supplement your deck design with one or more planters
and you have the opportunity to grow just about any vegetation that
catches your fancy.
The easiest planters to build are simple squares or rectangles
like the one featured here. However, you shouldn’t feel confined to
those basic shapes; most planter plans can easily be adapted to just
about any shape. That adaptability can come in handy when you
need to tuck the planter into the odd corner of an unusual deck
design.
Regardless of what shape you choose, it’s always helpful to
have some idea of what you want to plant in the planter. Different
plants can require radically different types of soil and space for
roots. A tree will require a much different planter than a small
display of blooming annuals. In any case, it’s wise to attach the
planter to the deck to prevent it from falling over due to high winds
or rambunctious party guests.
A planter like this is relatively easy to construct and adds
immeasurably to the look of the deck, not only with its design, but
also by hosting attractive plant life.

Tools & Materials

Circular saw
Miter saw
Power drill & bits
Tape measure
4 × 4 lumber
1 × 3 lumber
1 × 1 nailing strips
1 × 4 lumber
3" galvanized deck screws
2 1/2" galvanized deck screws
3/4" exterior grade plywood
Nail set
Pond liner or 6-mil poly
Stapler
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
 HOW TO BUILD A DECK PLANTER

Use a miter saw or circular saw to cut all the framing members.
Mark and cut four 4 × 4 legs and 20 1 × 4 side panels, all 18" long.
Cut four 1 × 2 rails 21" long, and four 14" long. Cut eight 1 × 1 nailing
strips 14" long.
Assemble the end panels by laying four 1 × 4s side by side,
aligning them perfectly. Lay a short 1 × 2 rail across one end,
running it perpendicular to the boards. Drill pilot holes, and screw the
rail to each of the panel boards.
Position the nailing strips along the outside edges of the panel
and drill pilot holes. Screw the nailing strips in place, and then screw
the bottom rail in place as you did with the top rail. Butt it up against
the bottom of the nailing strips (there should be a gap between the
bottom edge of the rail and the bottom edges of the panel boards).
Repeat the process using six 1 × 4s to construct the side panels.
Set a leg on the worktable and align a panel with the leg. Drill pilot
holes through the nailing strip on the back of the panel, into the leg,
and screw the panel to the leg using a screw every 2". Continue
attaching the legs in the same manner until the box of the planter is
complete.
Cut a rectangle of exterior-grade 3/4" plywood, 26 1/2" × 19 1/2".
Notch the corners by cutting in 2 3/4" from each edge.
Turn the planter box upside down and screw the plywood bottom
into place, drilling pilot holes at the edges into the bottom rails, and
then screwing the bottom to the rails. Use a 1/4" bit to drill holes in
the center of the plywood to allow for drainage.
Cut the 1 × 4s for the plinth and top frame. Cut four 28" long, and
four 21" long. Miter the ends of all pieces 45°.
Attach the planter box to the deck by measuring and setting it into
position. Drive 2 1/2" decking screws down through the plywood
bottom and into the deck. Use one screw at each corner, located as
close to the outer panel as possible.
Screw the plinth pieces in place around the base of the planter by
driving 2" deck screws from the inside of the box, through the bottom
rail and into the plinth piece. Use three screws per side.
Staple the planter box liner all around, attaching it over the top
rail, but not so that it overlaps onto the outside of the side panels.
Cut some holes in the bottom for drainage.
Drill pilot holes through the outside edges of the top frame pieces
through the miters. Position the frame in place on the planter and
drill pilot holes down through the frame and into the legs. Nail the
frame in place with galvanized finish nails, and use a nailset to sink
the nails.
Sand and finish the box if desired. Add a few inches of gravel at
the bottom, then soil and plants. Water thoroughly.
PRIVACY SCREEN

T oday’s deck has the potential to be much, much more than just
a simple step-out platform. You can design your deck to be an
outdoor dining room with a secluded nook for quiet, intimate
meals, a discrete sunbathing platform, or a sanctuary to read the
paper in peace and get away from it all. But for all of these, privacy
is key. A romantic brunch is no fun when it’s in direct view of a
neighbor’s yard or kitchen window. And that’s where a privacy
screen can come in mighty handy.
Deck-mounted privacy screens have to conform to the same
codes—or in some cases, more stringent versions—that the deck
railings do. You have to be very careful that the placement of a
screen does not impede on an egress opening, and that the
clearance around windows and vents is adequately maintained. If
you live in an area subject to strong winds, code issues will be even
more of a concern and the screen may require special
reinforcement so that it can withstand added wind load. Ultimately,
you may also have to install blocking between the joists running to
where the screen is mounted, to help combat the stress from the
wind load.
As important as code issues are, don’t lose sight of the fact that
a privacy screen is a substantial deck feature. Take the time to
make sure the design adds to the look, as well as the function, of
your deck.
A lattice privacy screen allows for airflow and some light to filter
through, and offers privacy from other yards.

Tools & Materials

Power drill and bits
Jigsaw or circular saw
1 3/8" spade bit
5 × 1/2" lag screws and washers
3" deck screws
2 1/2" deck screws
1 1/2" 4d galvanized finish nails
Exterior grade 3/4" lattice
Pyramid or other post finial
Eye and ear protection
4 × 4 lumber
1 × 2 lumber
2 × 4 lumber
Tape measure
Miter saw
Level
Speed square
Clamps
Work gloves
 HOW TO BUILD A PRIVACY SCREEN

Measure and cut the 4 × 4 posts for the screen. Each post should
be 6'5" long. Miter the bottom ends of the posts to a 22 1/2° angle.
Seal the cut ends with a sealant/preservative, even if you’re using
pressure treated wood.
Measure and mark 2" up from the bottom of the backside of the
posts, and 2" above that mark. Drill 1/2" deep holes at these marks,
using a 1 3/8" spade bit. Drill 3/8" pilot holes in the center of the larger
holes, all the way through the post.
Mark the locations of the top and bottom plates on the inside faces
of the posts. Mark the post positions on the side of the deck and
double check your measurements (the posts should be exactly 46"
apart on center). Hold the posts in position and mark through the
pilot holes for the joist holes.
Attach the privacy screen posts to the edge of the deck with the
aid of a helper. Hold each post in place, checking plumb with a level,
and use 5 × 1/2" lag screws and washers to connect the post to the
deck.
Position the bottom plate between the two posts, using spacers to
hold the plate in place. Screw the plate to the posts from the top, in
toenail fashion, using two 3" deck screws on both sides.
Cut the screen frame pieces from 1 × 2 stock: 2 side pieces 5 ft.
long, and top and bottom pieces 43" long. Miter the ends of the
framing pieces to 45°. Mark a 4 × 8 sheet of lattice and use a jigsaw
or circular saw to cut the sheet down to 4 × 5.
Drill countersunk pilot holes in the edges of all the screen framing
pieces for the 3" deck screws that will secure the frame to the posts
and plates. Space the holes about 10" apart.
Assemble the front frame by clamping pieces at the mitered joints,
drilling pilot holes for 2" deck screws. Measure diagonally after the
frame is finished to ensure square. Assemble the rest of the frame in
the same way, and repeat to construct the back frame.
Add the outside frame. Drill pilot holes into the post and attach with
3" deck screws.
Place the lattice in position and install the inner frame. Predrill and
nail the inner to the outer frame through a lattice strip every 8" with
4d galvanized nails.
Screw the top plate into place, and screw the top frame pieces to
the top plate and to each other. Finish the screen by covering the
post tops with finials. The finials used here are glued to the post top
with construction adhesive.
Add additional segments by repeating these steps and adding a 2
× 6 cap mitered at 22 1/2° at the mated ends. This plate will replace
the finials.
MAILBOX STAND

T his weekend project combines building skills and a love for

flowering perennial plants. In addition to the building
materials, visit a salvage yard to find an interesting rectangular
planter to suspend below the mailbox. We used a brass planter with
an antique patina.
Or, build your own planter from material of your choosing.This
mailbox stand is made from a 4 × 4 cedar post that supports a pair
of cross arm rails on which you set the mailbox. It is designed for a
typical rural mailbox that’s sized from 6 to 7 inches wide and 19 to
20 inches long. The planter is mounted by hanging it from ropes
attached to Shaker pegs in the cross arm rails. Of course, you may
prefer to leave the planter off entirely.
It is recommended that you set your mailbox stand post into
concrete. It doesn’t need to extend all the way down past the frost
line unless you’re really worried about your mailbox height
changing by a fraction of an inch as the ground freezes and thaws.
A depth of around 20 inches is more than adequate for relatively
stable soil. A post cap at the top of the post keeps moisture out of
the post’s end grain and gives your project a neat, finished
appearance.
This appealing mailbox stand creates a welcome entry marker for
your driveway, especially if you hang the optional planter from it and
fill it with bedding plants.

Materials
1 4 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar post
2 2 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar
1 1 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar
1 2 × 8" × 8 ft. cedar
1 1 × 2" × 8 ft. cedar
1 decorative post cap
6 1/4 × 5 1/2" stainless steel bolts with nuts and washers
6 #8 × 2" brass wood screws
16 #6 × 1 1/2" brass wood screws
Exterior wood glue
Mailbox
Rectangular planter box
Nylon rope (or cord or chain)
Potting soil
12 wood caps
8 Shaker pegs
 MAILBOX STAND
MAKE THE PARTS
Cut the side rails as indicated on the cutting list. On one end of
each side rail, make a mark at 14" and another mark at 17 1/2". Set
the depth on a circular saw to 1/4"; starting at the first mark and
working to the second, make a series of cuts 1/4" apart. Using a
mallet and chisel, remove the waste material between the cuts
(photo 1). Sand the face of the mortise as necessary. On each end of
each side rail, use a jigsaw to cut a 3 1/2"-radius arc.
Cut two braces as indicated on the cutting list. Use a jigsaw to
cut an arc 5 1/2" in radius in each end of each brace (photo 2).
ASSEMBLE THE POST & RAILS
Cut the spacers. Lay out one side rail, and set the post into the
mortise. Position the spacers and the braces and add the second
side rail. Square and clamp the assembly. Use a 1" spade bit to drill
six counterbored holes that are 1/2" deep and centered at each bolt
location. Turn the assembly over and drill holes on the other side.
Use a 5/16" spade bit to through-drill the six bolt holes. Fasten
the assembly with bolts, washers, and nuts (photo 3). Set the nuts
finger tight, plus a half-turn. Use exterior wood glue and a wooden
cap to plug each bolt hole (photo 4). Tap each cap into place, using
a rubber mallet wrapped with a soft cloth.
Cut a mortise into each side rail by making a series of 1/4"-deep
kerf cuts and then removing the waste wood with a mallet and chisel.
Cut and shape two braces. Draw an arc with a 5 1/2" radius on the
braces and cut with a jigsaw.
Fasten the post, rails, and braces with lag bolts. Drill counterbores
for the bolt heads and the nuts.

Drill four receiving holes for the four Shaker pegs that will
support the planter. Use exterior wood glue to fasten the pegs into
the side rails (photo 5). The heads of the pegs should extend 1"
from the side rails. Trim off the excess peg shank so the ends are
flush with the inside faces of the rails. Attach the decorative cap
onto the top of the post.
ATTACH THE SHELF & MAILBOX
Cut the box shelf as indicated on the cutting list. Position the shelf
on top of the side rails, 2 1/2" from the front. Drill pilot holes and
attach the mailbox shelf to the side rails using six #8 wood screws
(photo 6). Fasten the mailbox to the mailbox shelf with eight #6
wood screws driven through the side flanges (photo 7). Adjust the
box position to allow the door to open freely.
MAKE THE PLANTER HANGING FRAME
Cut two long frame pieces and two short frame pieces. Drill pilot
holes for four Shaker pegs. Position the short frame pieces between
the long frame pieces. Drill pilot holes and fasten the frame with
two #6 wood screws at each corner (photo 8). Glue the pegs into
their guide holes and trim the ends. Allow the assembly to dry
overnight.
Fill the planter box with potting soil and plants. Water
thoroughly. Insert the planter box into the support frame and
suspend it from the cabinet pulls with nylon rope, cord, or chain.

Glue a wood cap into both counterbores for each bolt.

Insert a Shaker peg into each guide hole so the cap extends 1" out
from the rail. Glue in place and trim the end flush.
Attach the shelf for the mailbox to the side rails.
Attach the mailbox to the box shelf by driving screws through the
side flanges of the mailbox.
Fasten the planter hanging frame with a pair of #6 wood screws
driven in pilot holes at each corner.
PORCH SWING

A beautiful evening outdoors gets a little better when you’re

sitting and enjoying it from a porch swing. The gentle,
rhythmic motion of the swing is a relaxing coda to any stressful
day.
Essentially, a porch swing is a garden bench with chains instead
of legs. Like garden benches, swings can be built to suit just about
any style. Also like garden benches, too often the style of a porch
swing comes at the expense of comfort. In fact, if you were to test
each of the thousands of porch swing designs in existence, you
might be amazed to discover how many are simply not
comfortable. This porch swing was designed with both style and
comfort in mind. It sits a bit deeper than many other versions and
the back is pitched at just the right angle. Another key to its
comfort is that the back rails don’t extend all the way down to the
seat slats, creating open space that is ergonomically important.
Despite the custom appearance of this porch swing, it is actually
built from common 7/8" cedar boards, 5/4" cedar deck boards, and
cedar 2× lumber.
This porch swing can be hung from eyehooks in a porch ceiling
that features sufficient structural framing, including joists that are
no smaller than 2 × 8. Or, you can hang it in a variety of locations
from a freestanding porch swing stand. The swing stand shown on
pages 522 to 527 is designed to complement this swing.
This cedar swing is roomy enough for two but compact enough to
hang from either a stand or a front porch ceiling. Made of cedar, it is
lightweight yet durable and moisture-resistant.

Materials
2 1 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar boards
1 5/4" × 12 ft. cedar deck board
4 2 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar
Deck screws (2 1/2", 3")
Eyebolts (exterior): 2 @ 3/8 × 3 1/2" 2 @ 3/8 × 6 1/2"
8 3/8"-dia. washers
Eye and ear protection
Finishing materials
4 3/8"-dia. locknuts
Jigsaw
Tape measure
Clamps
Compass
Speed square
Drill and bits
Exterior glue
Sander
Work gloves
Porch Swing

Cutting List
Key A
Part Seat supports
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/4 × 17 1/2"
Pcs. 3
Material Cedar
Key B
Part Front rail
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 × 68"
Pcs. 1
Material Cedar

Key C
Part Back rail
Dimension 1 1/2 × 2 1/2 × 48"
Pcs. 1
Material Cedar

Key D
Part Front posts
Dimension 1 1/2 × 2 1/2 × 11 3/4"
Pcs. 2
Material Cedar

Key E
Part Arm support
Dimension 1 1/4 × 2 × 22"
Pcs. 2
Material Cedar

Key F
Part Armrest
Dimension 1 1/4 × 5 1/2 × 24 1/4"
Pcs. 2
Material Cedar

Key G
Part Arm front
Dimension 1 1/4 × 3 1/4 × 9 1/4"
Pcs. 2
Material Cedar

Key H
Part Back posts
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 × 21 1/2"
Pcs. 2
Material Cedar

Key I
Part Seat slats
Dimension 7/8 × 2 3/8 × 48"

Pcs. 2
Material Cedar

Key J
Part Seat slats
Dimension 7/8 × 5 × 48"

Pcs. 3
Material Cedar

Key K
Part Top back rail
Dimension 7/8 × 5 1/2 × 54"

Pcs. 1
Material Cedar

Key L
Part Middle back rail
Dimension 7/8 × 2 × 52"
Pcs. 1
Material Cedar

Key M
Part Bottom back rail
Dimension 7/8 × 3 × 52"

Pcs. 1
Material Cedar
 PORCH SWING
BUILD THE SEAT FRAME
Make the workpieces for the seat supports by cutting three 17 1/2"
lengths of 2 × 4. Cedar is shown here; you can also use treated pine
if you want a natural wood finish or untreated SPF (spruce, pine, or
fir) if you plan to paint the swing. Lay out the seat support profile
on one of the seat support pieces (photo 1) using the diagram on
page 515 as a reference. The seat support is scooped on the top
edge so the seat slats follow a comfortable flow. At the low point in
the middle of each support, the thickness of the part drops to 1 3/4".
At the back end the part should be 2 1/2" from top to bottom and at
the front end it should peak at 3 1/4" and then drop down slightly
over the last inch. Plot the profile so the tops of the part follow
straight lines that conform to the width of the slats that will rest on
them. The back edge of the part should be mitered at 15° to follow
the backrest angle. Cut along the layout line with a jigsaw and then
use the first seat support as a template to trace the profile onto the
remaining two seat supports. Also use the jigsaw to cut out the
second and third seat supports. Gang the seat supports together
with clamps and sand the profiles all at the same time so they are
exactly the same.
Lay out the parts. Plot the seat support profile onto one of the seat
support workpieces using the dimensions given on page 515 as a
reference.
Cut the end profiles. Use a compass to draw the front rail end
radius and cut along these lines with a jigsaw. Sand the cuts smooth.

Make the seat front rail by cutting a 2 × 4 to 68" long and rip-
cutting 1/4" off each edge to remove the rounded edges, leaving a
workpiece that’s 3" wide. On the front face of the front rail first
mark a 2" radius on the bottom corners and then draw a 1" radius
on the top corners. Cut along the corner radius lines with a jigsaw
(photo 2). Make the seat back rail by cutting a 2 × 4 to 48" in
length and then rip-cutting it down to 2 1/2" wide. Attach the seat
supports to the seat front and back rails with 3" deck screws (photo
3).

ATTACH THE BACK & ARM SUPPORTS

Cut a pair of 11 3/4" lengths of cedar 2 × 4 and rip-cut these pieces
to 2 1/2" wide to make the front posts. Drill counterbored pilot holes
and attach the front posts to the front rail and outside seat supports
with 2 1/2" deck screws (photo 4). Note: Counterbore pilot holes for
all structural joints. If you’re looking to save a bit of time, consider
attaching the seat slats with screws driven through pilot holes that
are countersunk only.

Join rails and seat supports. Drive two 3" deck screws through the
front rail and into the front ends of the seat supports. Also drive one
3" screw through the back rail and into the back end of each seat
support. Apply exterior glue to the mating parts first to reinforce the
joints.
Attach the front posts. Drive two 21/2" deck screws through the
side of the front post and into the outside seat supports. Drive two
21/2" deck screws through the front rail and into the front posts.

Next, cut two 211/2" lengths of 2 × 4 and rip them to 3" wide, and
then miter-cut the bottom ends to 15° to make the back posts. Next,
draw a 3" radius on the back top corners of each back post and cut
along the radius line with a jigsaw. Attach the back posts to the
outside seat supports with 21/2" screws (photo 5).
Cut one 22" length from a 5/4 deck board (actual thickness is 1"
to 11/4") and rip-cut that piece into two 2"-wide pieces to make the
two arm supports. Attach the arm supports to the front and back
posts with 21/2" screws (photo 6). Cut two 91/4" pieces of the 5/4
deck board to make the arm fronts. Lay out the arm front profile on
each piece and cut the profiles with a jigsaw. Attach the arm fronts
to the front posts with 21/2" deck screws.
ATTACH THE BACK RAILS & SEAT SLATS
Cut two 241/4" pieces of 5/4 deck boards to make the armrests.
Lay out the armrest profile on each deck board and cut the boards
using a jigsaw. The backside edge should have a curved taper of 1"
starting 7" from the end. The armrests should be rounded at a 1"
radius on both front corners. Cut four 48" long pieces of 7/8 ×
51/2" (nominal 1 × 6) boards to make the seat slats. Rip-cut three
of the boards to 5" wide and then rip-cut the fourth deck board into
two 25/8" wide pieces.

Attach the back posts. Drive two 21/2" deck screws through each
back post and into the outside seat supports.
Attach the arm supports. Drive two 21/2" deck screws through
each end of the arm supports and into the front and back posts.
Then attach the arm front with two 21/2" deck screws.

Cut a 54" piece of 5/4 deck board to make the top back rail.
Make a template of one-half of the top back rail on a piece of
cardboard according to the profile drawing on page 33. Cut the
template out with scissors or an X-acto knife. Trace the template
onto each half of the top back rail (photo 7). Then, cut along the
layout line with a jigsaw. Sand smooth. Cut a 52" piece of 5/4 deck
board to make the middle and bottom rails. Rip-cut this piece into
one 2" wide board and one 3" wide board. Use a router and 1/4"
roundover bit to ease the edges of the armrests, seat slats, and back
rails (photo 8). Attach the armrests, seat slats, and back rails with
21/2" deck screws (photo 9).

FINISH THE SWING

Although you may choose to leave the swing unfinished if it is
made of a good exterior wood, such as cedar or redwood, most
people prefer to apply a top coat or even an exterior wood stain and
a top coat. Protecting the wood not only allows the wood tone to
retain its color, it also minimizes the raised wood grain effect that
occurs when water soaks into unprotected wood. The raised grain is
not uncomfortable in and of itself, but it can lead to splintering.
Lay out the back rail profile. Use the information on page 33 to
make a cardboard template of half of the top back rail. Use this
template to lay out the first half of the top back rail profile and then
flip the template to lay out the second half.

Before applying your finish of choice, sand all of the wood

surfaces up to 150 grit using a pad sander. Do not use an aggressive
sander, such as a belt sander. Cut or buy wood plugs from the same
species as the swing wood. Glue the plugs into the counterbored
holes at screw locations. Once the glue has set, trim the plugs flush
with the wood surface using a flush-cutting saw, or simply sand the
tops down so they are even with the surrounding wood surface.
Then, wipe down the entire project with a rag dipped in mineral
spirits or rubbing alcohol, wait for the wood to dry, and then apply
your finish. If you have access to an HVLP sprayer, it is an
excellent choice for applying the finish smoothly and quickly. Two
or three light coats will yield much better results than one or two
heavier coats.

Ease the edges. Round over all edges of the armrests, back rails,
and the top edges (smooth face) of the seat slats. Use a router with
a 1/4" radius roundover bit to make these profile cuts.
Finish the assembly. Attach the armrests, seat slats, and back rails
with 21/2" deck screws.

HANGING THE SWING

Install the four 3/8"-dia. eyebolts that will be fastened to the
hanging chains or ropes (photo 10). Of these two options, chains
take a bit longer to install but they won’t need adjusting once
they’re set, and you don’t have to tie and retie knots. Porch swing
chains can be purchased as kits from hardware stores and from
online sellers. Each kit contains a pair of chain assemblies with two
swing chains, which consist of a Y-fitting that connects to an S-
hook at the end of a single chain dropping from the ceiling or
stand. Make sure the chain you buy is of sufficient strength and
rated for outdoor usage. If you are using rope, choose rope that
won’t shrink or stretch (such as 5/8"-dia. nylon rope).
Two bolts are attached through the front rail and two bolts are
attached through the back edges of the armrests and back posts.
Hang the porch swing from chains or ropes so that the front edge is
approximately 16" off the ground. The back edge of the swing
should be level with the front edge or slightly lower. Adjust the
hanging height to suit the primary users.
Prepare for hangers. Drill 7/16"-dia. guide holes for each 3/8"
eyebolt. Fasten the eyebolts with washers and locknuts.
PORCH SWING STAND

W hat good is a porch swing if you don’t have a place to hang

it? Porch swings originally hung from the ceilings of
covered porches, but you don’t need a porch to enjoy a porch swing
in your outdoor living space. Instead, you can build this attractive
porch swing stand to hold your swing. It will look great in a
garden, yard, or on a deck. And the total height is low enough to fit
under most raised porches or decks. In fact, unless you’re sure that
your ceiling has the structural strength to handle a swing, this stand
is probably a better option.
This swing stand is designed to hold up to a 4-foot-wide porch
swing. The only tools you need to build it are a power miter saw or
circular saw, jigsaw, and drill/driver. The design is simple enough
to build in a day, but the speed of construction doesn’t result in any
lack of strength. The cross braces and gussets that reinforce the 4 ×
4 legs and 4 × 6 top beam give this stand more than enough
strength to hold two adults (do not exceed). The only modification
you may need to make to the plan is to match the distance between
the eyebolts in the stand to the dimension between your porch
swing’s hanging chains or ropes.
This sturdy stand made from cedar timbers is designed to support
the swing project shown on pages 32 to 39. But if you like the stand,
its design is neutral enough to support any other swing or seat that
you buy, build, or already own.

Tools & Materials

1 2 × 6" × 10 ft. cedar
1 2 × 8" × 12 ft. cedar
4 4 × 4" × 8 ft. cedar
1 4 × 6" × 8 ft. cedar
3" deck screws
Lag bolts (hot dipped or stainless steel): 8 @ 3/8" × 5 12 @ 3/8" × 61/2"
20 3/8" lock washers
20 3/8" nuts
2 1/2" × 6" eyebolts
Porch Swing Stand
Cutting List
Key A
Part Beam
Dimension 3 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 96"
Pcs. 1
Material Cedar

Key B
Part Beam gussets
Dimension 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 14 3/4"
Pcs. 4
Material Cedar

Key C
Part Inside beam supports
Dimension 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 21"
Pcs. 2
Material Cedar

Key D
Part Outside beam supports
Dimension 1 1/2 × 71/4 × 21 3/4"
Pcs. 2
Material Cedar

Key E
Part Cross braces
Dimension 1 1/2 × 71/4 × 44"
Pcs. 2
Material Cedar

Key F
Part Legs
Dimension 3 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 76"
Pcs. 4
Material Cedar
 PORCH SWING STAND
CUT THE PARTS
Cut each 76"-long 4 × 4 leg with parallel 14° miters at the ends
(photo 1). You need a 10" or 12" power miter saw for enough
capacity to cut the legs in a single pass. Be sure to provide ample
support for the workpiece, including the cutoff portion. If you don’t
have a miter saw, mark the angled cutting lines with a protractor or
speed square, and cut them with a circular saw or handsaw. Cut the
two 44" long cross braces from a piece of 2 × 8. Miter-cut each end
to 14°.
The bottom edge of the cross brace features a decorative arc
profile. Draw this arc using a flexible strip of wood (such as 1"-
wide strip of 1/4" lauan plywood) as a gauge. Mark points on the
workpiece that are 4" from the outside edges of the long side of the
cross brace. At each mark, tap two small nails into the face of the
cross brace near the edge. Tap a third rail centered across the length
of the brace and 2" up from the bottom to mark the apex of the arc.
Flex a thin scrap of wood against the nails to create a smooth arc
profile. Trace the arc with a pencil (photo 2) and then remove the
nails and cut along the line with a jigsaw.
Cut the stand legs to length. If you have a 10" or 12" power miter
saw, you should be able to make the 14° end cuts in one pass. Be
sure the end of the workpiece is supported.
Trace the cross-brace arcs. Flex a thin piece of wood or metal
against two nails to act as a template for laying out the arc profile on
the leg cross braces.

Miter-cut the 14° ends of the two 21"-long 2 × 6 inside beam

supports to length. Miter-cut the 14° of the two 21 3/4"-long 2 × 8
outside beam supports. Use the same method that you used to
create the arc on the cross braces to create an arc along the bottom
edge of the outside beam supports.
Cut the beam gussets 14 3/4" long. Make two marks 31/2" in
from each end along the top edge of each gusset, and draw a 45°
line from each mark to the outside end of the gusset. Then, draw a
second 45° line from the outside edge down to the bottom edge of
the gusset (photo 3). Cut off the corners of each gusset on these
marked cutting lines.
The top beam is an 8-foot long 4 × 6 timber. Miter-cut the top
corners of the beam to 45°, starting 31/2" in from each end of the
beam.

ASSEMBLE THE STAND

To attach the gussets to the inside beam supports, first mark the
center of each beam support and then measure out 1 3/4" from the
center to designate the positions of the inside edges of the gussets.
Draw alignment lines on these marks, perpendicular to the top and
bottom edges of the beam supports. Position your drill 3/4" to the
outside of these lines and bore 3/16"-dia. guide holes through the
beam supports. Hold the gussets in position and drill 1/8" pilot
holes in the ends of the gussets using the beam pilot holes as a
guide. Attach the gussets to the beam supports with 3" deck screws.
Make the gussets. Draw 45° cutting lines at ends of the beam
gussets using a try square as a guide. Trim along the cutting lines.
Attach the gussets. Bore counterbore holes and guide holes for
bolts, washers, and nuts through the beam supports, cross braces
and legs. Drive 3/8" × 61/2" lag screws with washers to secure the
gussets.

Lay the legs on a flat surface. Position the outside beam support
and cross brace under the legs. Then, position the inside beam
support and gusset assembly on top of the legs. Clamp the legs
between the beam supports and clamp the cross brace to the legs.
Drill two 1 1/8"-dia. × 1/2" deep counterbore holes and 7/16"-dia.
guide holes through each joint and attach the parts with 3/8"-dia. ×
5" and 3/8"-dia. × 6 1/2" bolts (photo 4).
Raise the leg assembly. Position the beam on the beam supports
so it fits in between the gussets. Clamp the beam in place and then
drill counterbores and guide holes through the joints, just as you
did for the leg assembly. Fasten the beam with 3/8"-dia. × 61/2"
bolts secured by washers and locknuts (photo 5).
The chain or rope that supports the swing will be fastened to an
eyebolt that runs down through the beam. Drill two 9/16"-dia.
vertical pilot holes through the center of the beam, spaced the same
measured distance as there is between your swing’s hanging chains
or ropes. To avoid creating a place for water to pool, a counterbore
hole is not drilled for the nuts that fasten the eyebolts. Fasten two
1/2"-dia. × 6" eyebolts with lock washers and nuts to the beam
(photo 6).

INSTALL THE STAND & HANG THE SWING

The swing stand should be placed on level ground. A porch swing
is not intended to swing fast or in a long arc, like a play swing
does, so there is no need under normal use to anchor the stand to
the ground. Hang the porch swing so the top front edge of the seat
is approximately 16" off the ground (photo 7). The back edge of the
swing should be level with the front edge or slightly lower. Adjust
the hanging height to suit the primary users.
Attach the beam. Drill counterbores for washers on both gussets
and drill guide holes for 3/8"-dia. × 61/2"-long lag bolts. Insert the
bolts and secure with lock washers and nuts.
Install eyebolts on the beam. Fasten 1/2"-dia. eyebolts to the beam
with washers and locknuts.
Hang the swing. Use chains (preferred) or rope to hang the porch
swing from the eyebolts in the swing stand beam. The front edge of
the swing seat should be roughly 16" off the ground, and the swing
should be level or tilted slightly backwards when at rest.
SIMPLE POTTING BENCH

A multi-functional workstation offers great versatility that

makes it useful for a host of different gardening projects. But
sometimes, all you really want from your work area is a big, broad
surface with plenty of room to spread out and get busy. This
workhorse of a bench is modeled after the most-used workspace in
any home: the kitchen countertop. At 36 inches tall, the bench is
the same height as most kitchen counters, and at 28 inches wide,
it’s slightly deeper than standard countertops—but not so deep that
you can’t easily reach across to the other side. The symmetrical
configuration allows you to push any part of the bench against a
wall or leave it out in the open for easy access to all sides.
There’s also no need to worry about leaving the bench out in the
rain. The understructure is made with moisture-resistant, pressure-
treated lumber, and the top is made up of composite decking boards
that won’t split, rot, or splinter and require no protective finish.
Of course, if you’ve always wished your kitchen counters were
a bit higher or lower, you can simply add or subtract a few inches
from the given dimension for the bench legs. You can also change
the length of the bench to fit a tight space, if necessary. Shortening
the whole thing by two feet allows you to build it with standard 8-
foot lumber and decking instead of 12-foot and 10-foot pieces.
This potting bench has a 28 × 71" top and is built with four 2 × 4s
and three standard-size decking boards. The handy pot shelf below
the bench top is made with a cutoff from one of the deck boards.
Simple Potting Bench

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Circular saw
Drill
Piloting-countersink bit
Framing square
Clamps
(3) 12-ft. pressure-treated 2 × 4
3 1/2" and 2 1/2" deck screws
(1) 10-ft. pressure-treated 2 × 4
(3) 12-ft. 1 × 6 composite decking boards
Sandpaper
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves

Cutting List
KEY A
Part Top frame side
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 69 1/2"
Pieces 2
Material 2×4

KEY B
Part Top frame end
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 23 1/2"
Pieces 2
Material 2×4

KEY C
Part Top supports
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 23 1/2"
Pieces 4
Material 2×4

KEY D
Part Leg
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 35"
Pieces 4
Material 2×4

KEY E
Part Leg support
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 16 1/2" (field measure)
Pieces 2
Material 2×4

KEY F
Part Stretcher
Dimension 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 63 1/2" (field measure)
Pieces 1
Material 2×4

KEY G
Part Top decking
Dimension 1 × 5 1/2 × 71"
Pieces 5
Material 1 × 6 decking

KEY H
Part Pot shelf
Dimension 1 × 5 1/2 × 68"
Pieces 1
Material 1 × 6 decking
 HOW TO BUILD THE SIMPLE POTTING
BENCH

Cut the two top frame sides from one 12-ft. 2 × 4, using a circular
saw or power miter saw. Cut the two top frame ends and the four top
supports from another 12-ft. 2 × 4. Fit the side pieces over the ends
of the end pieces so all top edges are flush. Drill countersunk pilot
holes and fasten the pieces together with two 3 1/2" deck screws at
each joint.
Mark the layout for the top supports: Measuring from one end of
the top frame, mark both frame sides every 13 5/8". Check the top
frame for square, using a framing square. Install the top supports
between the frame sides with 3 1/2" deck screws driven through the
frame sides and into the supports. Make sure the supports and
frame sides are flush across the top.
Cut the four legs from one 12-ft. 2 × 4. Round-over the edges on
the bottom end of each leg, using sandpaper, a file, or a router and
roundover bit; this prevents splintering if the table is slid around.
Install the legs at the inside corners of the top frame, driving 2 1/2"
deck screws through the legs and into the top frame ends. Also
screw through the top frame sides and into the legs. Make sure the
legs are square to the frame before fastening.
Mark the inside edge of each leg, 10" up from its bottom end.
Measure the distance between each leg pair and cut a leg support to
fit snugly between the legs, using the 10-ft. 2 × 4. Install the leg
supports with their bottom edges on the marks; drive 3 1/2" screws
toenail style through the top and bottom edges of the supports and
into the legs.
Cut the 2 × 4 stretcher to fit snugly between the leg supports, using
the remainder of the 10-ft. 2 × 4. Install the stretcher so it’s centered
side-to-side on each support, with the top edges flush. Drive 3 1/2"
screws through the outsides of the leg supports and into the
stretcher ends.
Cut the top decking boards to length. Clamp the first board in
place so it overhangs the front and ends of the top frame by 3/4". If
the deck boards are crowned (slightly curved across the face), make
sure the convex side faces up. Drill two pilot holes at the center of
each top frame end and top support location, countersinking the
holes slightly. Fasten the board with 2 1/2" deck screws.
Install the remaining deck boards so all of their ends are perfectly
aligned and each board is gapped 1/8" from the next (without gaps,
the joints would trap dirt). Use pieces of 1/8"-thick hardboard or two
1/8"-dia. drill bits to set the gaps. The last board should overhang the
rear frame side by 3/4".
Complete the pot shelf by cutting the remaining half piece of deck
board to length. Position the board so it is centered side-to-side over
the stretcher and overhangs both leg supports by 3/4". Fasten the
board to the stretcher and leg supports with 2 1/2" deck screws
driven through pilot holes.
COMPOST BIN

T he byproducts of routine yard maintenance can pile up.

Consider the waste generated by your landscaping during a
single year: grass clippings, deadheaded blossoms, leaves,
branches, and weeds. All this can be recycled into compost and
incorporated back into plant beds as a nutrient-rich soil
amendment.
Compost is nature’s own mulch, and it effectively increases soil
porosity, improves fertility, and stimulates healthy root
development. Besides, making your own mulch or soil amendment
through composting is much less expensive than buying
commercial materials. Kitchen waste and yard refuse are all the
ingredients you need.
So how does garbage turn into plant food? The process works
like this: Organisms such as bacteria, fungi, worms, and insects
convert compost materials into humus, a loamy, nutrient-rich soil.
Humus is the end goal of composting, and it can take as long as a
couple of years or as short as a month to produce.
With the right conditions, you can speed up Mother Nature’s
course and yield several helpings of fresh compost for your yard
each season. This is called managed composting, as opposed to
passive composting, when you allow a pile of plant debris and such
to decompose on its own. The conditions must be just right to
manage compost and speed the process. You’ll need a balance of
carbon and nitrogen, the right temperature, good air circulation,
and the right amount of water. By mixing, chopping materials, and
monitoring conditions in your compost pile, you’ll increase your
yield each season.
 Tools & Materials
(8) Cedar 2 × 4
(10) Cedar 1 × 2
(3 × 12 ft.) Galvanized hardware cloth (1/2")
Deck screws (3")
18-gauge brads (galvanized)
Eye and ear protection
U-nails (or narrow crown staples)
(2) 2 × 2" galvanized butt hinges
Exterior wood glue
Galvanized finish nails
Exterior wood sealant
Caulk
Circular saw
Table saw (optional)
Power miter saw
Clamps
Tape measure
Drill/driver
Hammer
Pneumatic stapler (optional)
Caulk gun
Work gloves

Browns and Greens

A fast-burning compost pile requires a healthy balance of “browns” and
“greens.” Browns are high in carbon, which is food energy
microorganisms depend on to decompose the pile. Greens are high in
nitrogen, which is a protein source for the multiplying microbes. A ratio
of 3-to-1 brown-to-green materials is the best balance.
• Browns: Dry brown plant material, straw, dried brown weeds, wood
chips, saw dust (used with caution)
• Greens: Grass clippings, kitchen fruit and vegetable scraps, green
leaves, and manure (no pet droppings)

Note: If you use chemical lawn care products on your lawn, do not
include grass clippings in your compost pile.
Compost Bin

Cutting List
Key A
Part Post
No. 8
Dim. 1 1/2 × 1 3/4 × 48"
Material Cedar
Key B
Part Door rail
No. 2
Dim. 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 16"
Material Cedar

Key C
Part Door rail
No. 2
Dim. 1 1/2 × 1 3/4 × 16"
Material Cedar

Key D
Part Door stile
No. 4
Dim. 1 1/2 × 1 3/4 × 30 1/2"
Material Cedar

Key E
Part Panel rail
No. 3
Dim. 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 32 1/2"
Material Cedar

Key F
Part Panel rail
No. 3
Dim. 1 1/2 × 1 3/4 × 32 1/2"
Material Cedar

Key G
Part Panel stile
No. 3
Dim. 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 30 1/2"
Material Cedar

Key H
Part Infill
No. 16
Dim. 3/4 × 1 1/2 × 30 1/2"

Material Cedar

Key I
Part Filler
No. 80
Dim. 3/4 × 1 1/2 × 4"

Material Cedar

Key J
Part Panel grid frame-h
No. 12
Dim. 3/4 × 1 1/2" × Cut to fit

Material Cedar

Key K
Part Grid frame-v
No. 16
Dim. 3/4 × 1 1/2" × Cut to fit

Material Cedar

Key L
Part Door frame-h
No. 4
Dim. 3/4 × 1 1/2" × Cut to fit
Material Cedar

Key M
Part Top rail-side
No. 2
Dim. 1 1/2 × 1 3/4 × 39"
Material Cedar

Key N
Part Top rail-back
No. 1
Dim. 1 1/2 × 1 3/4 × 32 1/2"
Material Cedar

Key O
Part Front spreader
No. 1
Dim. 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 32 1/2"
Material Cedar
 HOW TO BUILD A COMPOST BIN

Prepare the wood stock. At most building centers and lumber yards
you can buy cedar sanded on all four sides, or with one face left
rough. The dimensions in this project are sanded on all four sides.
Prepare the wood by ripping some of the stock into 1 3/4" wide strips
(do this by ripping 2 × 4s down the middle on a tablesaw or with a
circular saw and cutting guide).
Cut the parts to length with a power miter saw or a circular saw.
For uniform results, set up a stop block and cut all similar parts at
once.
Assemble the door frames. Apply exterior-rated wood glue to the
mating parts and clamp them together with pipe or bar clamps.
Reinforce the joints with 3" countersunk deck screws (two per joint).
Reinforce the bottom joints by drilling a pair of 3/4"-dia. × 1" deep
clearance holes up through the bottom edges of the bottom rails and
driving 3" deck screws through pilot holes up into the stiles.
Assemble the side and back panels. Clamp and glue the posts
and rails for each frame, making sure the joints are square. Then,
reinforce the joints with countersunk 3" deck screws—at least two
per joint.
Hang the door frames. With the posts cut to length and oriented
correctly, attach a door frame to each post with a pair of galvanized
butt hinges. The bottoms of the door frames should be flush with or
slightly higher than the bottoms of the posts. Temporarily tack a 1 × 4
brace across both door bottom rails to keep the doors from swinging
during construction.
Join the panels and the door assembly by gluing and clamping
the parts together and then driving 3" countersunk deck screws to
reinforce the joints. To stabilize the assembly, fasten the 2 × 4 front
spreader between the front, bottom edges of the side panels. Make
sure the spreader will not interfere with door operation.
Make the grids for the panel infill areas. Use 1 × 2 cedar to make
all parts (you may have to rip-cut cedar 2 × 4s for this, depending on
availability in your area. Use exterior glue and 18-gauge brads
(galvanized) to connect the horizontal filler strips to the vertical infill
pieces. Vary the heights and spacing of the filler for visual interest
and to make the ends accessible for nailing.
Frame the grids with 1 × 2 strips cut to the correct length so each
frame fits neatly inside a panel or door opening. Install the grid
frames in the openings, making sure all front edges are flush.
Attach the top rails that conceal the post tops and help tie the
panels together. Attach the sides first using exterior glue and
galvanized finish nails. Then, install the back rail on top of the side
rails. Leave the front of the project open on top so you can load,
unload, and turn over compost more easily.
Line the interior surfaces of the compost bin with 1/2" galvanized
hardware cloth. Cut the hardware cloth to fit and fasten it with fence
staple or galvanized U-nails driven every 6" or so. Make sure you
don’t leave any sharp edges protruding. Grind them down with a
rotary tool or a file.
Set up the bin in your location. Apply a coat of exterior wood
sealant to all wood surfaces—use a product that contains a UV
inhibitor. Tip: Before setting up your compost bin, dig a 12"-deep
hole just inside the area where the bin will be placed. This will
expand your bin’s capacity.
BACKYARD FIREPIT

A firepit is a backyard focal point and gathering spot. The one

featured here is constructed around a metal liner, which will
keep the firepit walls from overheating and cracking if cooled
suddenly by rain or a bucket of water. The liner here is a section of
36-inch-diameter corrugated culvert pipe. Check local codes for
stipulations on pit area size. Many codes require a 20-foot-diameter
pit area.
Ashlar wall stones add character to the firepit walls, but you can
use any type of stone, including cast concrete retaining wall blocks.
You’ll want to prep the base for the seating area as you dig the
firepit to be sure both rest on the same level plane.
Some pointers to consider when using your firepit include: 1)
Make sure there are no bans or restrictions in effect; 2) Evaluate
wind conditions and avoid building a fire if winds are heavy and/or
blowing toward your home; 3) Keep shovels, sand, water, and a fire
extinguisher nearby; 4) Extinguish fire with water and never leave
the fire pit unattended.

Tools & Materials

Wheelbarrow
Landscape paint
String and stakes
Spades
Metal pipe
Landscape edging
Level
Garden rake
Plate vibrator
Metal firepit liner
Compactable gravel
Top-dressing rock (trap rock)
Wall stones
Eye protection and work gloves
CROSS SECTION: FIREPIT
PLAN VIEW: FIREPIT
 HOW TO BUILD A FIREPIT

Outline the location for your firepit and the firepit safety area by
drawing concentric circles with landscape paint using a string and
pole for guidance.
Remove a 4"-deep layer of sod and dirt in the firepit and safety
areas (the depth of the excavation depends on what materials you’re
installing in the safety zone).
Dig a 4"-deep trench for the perimeter stones that will ring the pit
liner.
Fill the trench for the perimeter stones with compactable gravel and
tamp thoroughly. Then scatter gravel to within 2 1/2" of the paver
edging top throughout the project area. It is not necessary to tamp
this layer at this time.
Place your metal fire ring so it is level on the gravel layer and
centered around the center pipe.
Arrange the first course of wall blocks around the fire ring. Keep
gaps even and check with a level, adding or removing gravel as
needed.
Install the second course of retaining wall block, taking care to
evenly stagger the vertical joints on the first and second courses.
Add the remaining courses.
Compact the compactable gravel in the seating/safety area using
a rental plate vibrator.
Place and compact a layer of top-dressing rock in the
seating/safety area to complete the firepit.
CLASSIC GARDEN BRIDGE

A n elegant garden bridge invites you into a landscape by

suggesting you stop and spend some time there. Cross a
peaceful pond, traverse an arroyo of striking natural stone, or move
from one garden space to the next and explore. While a bridge is
practical and functions as a way to get from point A to point B, it
does so much more. It adds dimension, a sense of romanticism, and
the feeling of escaping to somewhere special.
The bridge you see here can be supported with handrails and
trellis panels, but left simple as pictured, its Zen appeal
complements projects such as an arroyo, a garden pond, or a rain
garden. We think the sleek, modern design blends well in the
landscape, providing a focal point without overwhelming a space.
Unlike many landscape and garden bridges that are large, ornate,
and designed to be the center of attention, this low cedar bridge has
a certain refined elegance that is a direct result of its simple design.

Tools & Materials

4 × 4" × 8' cedar (4)
2 × 10" × 8' cedar (2)
2 × 4" × 8' cedar (10)
1 × 8" × 8' cedar (2)
1 × 3" × 8' cedar (2)
1 × 2" × 8' cedar (8)
1/2" × 2" × 8' cedar lattice (2)
Lag screws (3/8 × 4")
Deck screws (2", 3")
Finishing materials
Jigsaw
Circular saw
Drill
Hammer
Sander
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
Cutting List

Key A
Part Stringer
Dim. 1 1/2 × 9 1/4 × 96"
PCS. 2
Material Cedar

Key B
Part Stretcher
Dim. 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 27"
PCS. 4
Material "

Key C
Part Tread
Dim. 1 1/2 × 3 1/2 × 30"
PCS. 26
Material "
 PREPARING BRIDGE PIECES
Study the cutting list carefully and take care when measuring for
cuts. The building blocks of this bridge are: stringers, a base, and
treads. Read these preliminary instructions carefully, then study the
steps before you begin.
Stringers: This first step involves cutting the main structural
pieces of the bridge. The stringers have arcs cut into their bottom
edges, and the ends of stringers are cut at a slant to create a gradual
tread incline. Before you cut stringers, carefully draw guidelines on
the wood pieces:

• A centerline across the width of each stringer

• Two lines across the width of each stringer 24" to the left and
right of the centerline
• Lines at the ends of each stringer, 1" up from one long edge
• Diagonal lines from these points to the top of each line to the left
and right of the center

Base: Four straight boards called stretchers form the base that
support the bridge. Before cutting these pieces, mark stretcher
locations on the insides of the stringers, 1 1/2" from the top and
bottom of the stringers. The outside edges of the stretchers should
be 24" from the centers of the stringers so the inside edges are flush
with the bottoms of the arcs. When working with the stretchers, the
footboard may get quite heavy, so you will want to move the
project to its final resting place and finish constructing the project
there.
Treads: Cut the treads to size according to the cutting list. Once
laid on the stringers, treads will be separated with 1/4" gaps. Before
you install the treads, test-fit them to be sure they are the proper
size.
 HOW TO BUILD A GARDEN BRIDGE

Use a circular saw to cut the ends of stringers along the diagonal
lines, according to the markings described on the previous page.
Tack a nail on the centerline, 5 1/4" up from the same long edge.
Also tack nails along the bottom edge, 20 1/2" to the left and right of
the centerline.
Make a marking guide from a thin, flexible strip of scrap wood or
plastic, hook it over the center nail, and slide the ends under the
outside nails to form a smooth curve. Trace along the guide with a
pencil to make the arc cutting line.
Use a jigsaw to make arched cut-outs in the bottoms of the 2 × 10
stringers after removing the nails and marking guide.
Assemble the base by preparing stringers as described on facing
page and positioning the stretchers between them. Stand the
stringers upright (curve at the bottom) and support bottom stretchers
with 1 1/2"-thick spacer blocks for correct spacing. Fasten stretchers
between stringers with countersunk 3" deck screws, driven through
the stringers and into the ends of the stretchers.
Turn the stringer assembly upside down and attach the top
stretchers.
Attach treads after test-fitting them. Leave a 1/4" gap between
treads. Secure them with 3"-long countersunk deck screws.
Sand all surfaces to smooth out any rough spots, and apply an
exterior wood stain to protect the wood, if desired. You can leave the
cedar untreated and it will turn gray, possibly blending with other
landscape features.
COLD FRAME BOX

A n inexpensive foray into greenhouse gardening, a cold frame

is practical for starting plants six to eight weeks earlier in the
growing season and for hardening off seedlings. Basically, a cold
frame is a box set on the ground and topped with glass or plastic.
Although mechanized models with thermostatically controlled
atmospheres and sashes that automatically open and close are
available, you can easily build a basic cold frame yourself from
materials you probably already have around the house.
The back of the frame should be about twice as tall as the front
so the lid slopes to a favorable angle for capturing sunrays. Build
the frame tall enough to accommodate the maximum height of the
plants before they are removed. The frame can be made of brick,
block, plastic, wood, or just about any material you have on hand.
It should be built to keep drafts out and soil in.
If the frame is permanently sited, position it facing south to
receive maximum light during winter and spring and to offer
protection from wind. Partially burying it takes advantage of the
insulation from the earth, but it also can cause water to collect, and
the direct soil contact will shorten the lifespan of the wood frame
parts. Locating your frame near a wall, rock, or building adds
additional insulation and protection from the elements. Keep an
inexpensive thermometer in a shaded spot inside the frame for
quick reference. A bright spring day can heat a cold frame to as
warm as 100°, so prop up or remove the cover as necessary to
prevent overheating. And remember, the more you vent, the more
you should water. On cold nights, especially when frost is
predicted, cover the box with burlap, old quilts, or leaves to keep it
warm inside.
A cold frame is positioned over tender plants early in the growing
season to trap heat and moisture so they get a good, strong start.
This cold frame doesn’t rely on finding old windows for the top, so
anyone can build it.
Cold Frame Box

Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Carpenter square
(2) 3 × 3" butt hinges (ext.)
Exterior paint
(2) 4" utility handles
2" or 2 1/2" deck screws
(4) Corner L-brackets (3/4 × 2 1/2")
#8 × 3/4" wood screws
(1) 3/4" × 4 × 8 ft. plywood (ext.)
Circular saw
1/8 × 37 × 38" clear Plexiglas
Drill/driver
Exterior caulk/adhesive
Caulk gun
Pipe clamps
Exterior wood glue
Straightedge cutting guide
Dark exterior paint
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves

Cutting List
Key A
Part Side
No. 2
Size 3/4 × 16/28 × 36"

Material Ext. Plywood

Key B
Part Front
No. 1
Size 3/4 × 16 × 36"

Material Ext. Plywood

Key C
Part Back
No. 1
Size 3/4 × 28 × 36"

Material Ext. Plywood

Key D
Part Lid frame
No. 2
Size 3/4 × 4 × 31"
Material Ext. Plywood

Key E
Part Lid frame
No. 2
Size 3/4 × 4 × 38"

Material Ext. Plywood

Key F
Part Cover
No. 1
Size 1/8 × 37 × 38"

Material Plexiglas
 HOW TO BUILD A COLD-FRAME BOX

Cut the parts. This project, as dimensioned, is designed to be made

entirely from a single 4 × 8 sheet of plywood. Start by cutting the
plywood lengthwise to make a 36"-wide piece. Tip: Remove material
in 4" wide strips and use the strips to make the lid frame parts and
any other trim you may want to add.

Cut the parts to size with a circular saw or jigsaw and cutting guide.
Mark the cutting lines first (See Diagram, previous page).
Assemble the front, back and side panels into a square box. Glue
the joints and clamp them together with pipe or bar clamps. Adjust
until the corners are square.
Reinforce the joints with 2" or 2 1/2" deck screws driven through
countersunk pilot holes. Drive screws every 4 to 6" along each joint.
Make the lid frame. Cut the 4"-wide strips of 3/4" plywood reserved
from step 1 into frame parts (2 @ 31" and 2 @ 38"). Assemble the
frame parts into a square 38 × 39" frame. There are many ways to
join the parts so they create a flat frame. Because the Plexiglas
cover will give the lid some rigidity, simply gluing the joints and
reinforcing with an L-bracket at each inside corner should be more
than adequate structurally.
Paint the box and the frame with exterior paint, preferably in an
enamel finish. A darker color will hold more solar heat.
Lay thick beds of exterior adhesive/caulk onto the tops of the
frame and then seat the Plexiglas cover into the adhesive. Clean up
squeeze-out right away. Once the adhesive has set, attach the lid
with butt hinges and attach the handles to the sides.
Move the cold frame to the site. Clear and level the ground where
it will set if possible. Some gardeners like to excavate the site
slightly.
JUMBO COLD FRAME

A cold frame of any size works on the same principle as a

greenhouse, capturing sunlight and heat while protecting
plants from cold winds and frost. But when your planting needs
outgrow a basic backyard cold frame with a window-sash roof, it
makes sense to look to the greenhouse for more comprehensive
design inspiration. This jumbo version offers over 17 square feet of
planting area and combines the convenience of a cold frame with
the full sun exposure of a greenhouse. Plus, there’s ample height
under the cold frame’s canopy for growing taller plants.
The canopy pivots on hinges and can be propped all the way up
or partially opened to several different positions for ventilating the
interior to control temperature. The hinges can be separated just
like door hinges (in fact, they are door hinges), so you can remove
the canopy for the off season, if desired. Clear polycarbonate
roofing panels make the canopy lightweight yet durable, while
admitting up to 90 percent of the sun’s UV rays (depending on the
panels you choose).
The base of the cold frame is a simple rectangle made with 2 × 6
lumber. You can pick it up and set it over an existing bed of
plantings, or give it a permanent home, perhaps including a
foundation of bricks or patio pavers to protect the wood from
ground moisture. For additional frost protection and richer soil for
your seedlings, dig down a foot or so inside the cold frame and
work in a thick layer of mulch. Because all sides of the canopy
have clear glazing, you don’t have to worry about orienting the
cold frame toward the sun; as virtually all of the interior space is
equally exposed to light.
A cold frame can extend the growing season in your garden to
almost—or truly—year round. Use an oversized cold frame like the
one in this project and there may be no need to put up vegetables in
the fall, because you’ll have all the fresh produce you can handle.

Tools & Materials

Circular saw or miter saw
Cordless drill and bits
Hacksaw
Deck screws 2", 2 1/2", 3"
(5) 1/2" × 10-ft. thin wall PVC pipes (the flexible type used for lawn
irrigation, not schedule 40 type)
(2) 25 × 96" corrugated polycarbonate roofing panels
30 × 24" clear acrylic panel
16” treated stakes
Roofing screws with EPDM washers
(2) 3 1/2" exterior-grade butt hinges with screws
(2) 1/4 × 4" eyebolts
3 1/2 × 5/16" stainless steel machine bolts (2 bolts with 8 washers and 2
nuts)
(2) Heavy-duty hook-and-eye latches
Outdoor thermometer with remote sensor
Work gloves
Eye and ear protection
Building a Jumbo Cold Frame

Cutting List
Key A
No. 2
Part Frame side
Dimension 1 1/2 × 2 1/2 × 94"
Material 2×3

Key B
No. 2
Part Frame end
Dimension 1 1/2 × 2 1/2 × 30"
Material 2×3

Key C
No. 2
Part Base side
Dimension 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 94"
Material 2×6

Key D
No. 2
Part Base end
Dimension 1 1/2 × 5 1/2 × 30"
Material 2×6

Key E
No. 4
Part Frame brace
Dimension 1 1/2 × 2 1/2 × 8"
Material 2×3

Key F
No. 2
Part Prop stick
Dimension 3/4 × 1 1/2 × 30"

Material 1×2

Key G
No. 4
Part Rib
Dimension 1/2 × 1/2 × 37"

Material 1/2 PVC tubing

 How to Build a Jumbo Cold Frame

Drill pilot holes and fasten the frame end pieces between the frame
side pieces with 3" deck screws to create the rectangular frame. Do
the same with the base pieces to create the base. Use two screws
for each joint.
Stabilize the corners of the canopy frame with braces cut to 45°
angles at both ends. Install the braces on-the-flat, so their top faces
are flush with the tops of the canopy frame. Drill pilot holes and
fasten through the braces and into the frame with one 2 1/2" screw at
each end. Then, drive one more screw through the outside of the
frame and into each end of the brace. Check the frame for square as
you work.
Assemble the canopy glazing framework using 1/2" PVC pipe. Cut
all the ribs 37" long. You can cut these easily with a miter saw,
hacksaw, or jigsaw.
Use 2" deck screws as receptors for the PVC pipes. Drive the
screws in 1" from edge and 3/4" from the ends, angling the screws at
about 35 to 45° toward the center. Leave about 3/4" of the screw
exposed. Drive two additional screws in at 32 1/4" from each end.
Install the PVC ribs by putting one end over the 2" screw, then
curving the PVC until the other end fits over the opposite screw. Take
your time with this, and use a helper if you need. Note: Hopefully
you’ve remembered to buy the flexible PVC, not the Schedule 40
type used for indoor plumbing.
Hold up and mark a smooth piece of clear acrylic for the end
panels. The clear acrylic should cover the 2 × 3 and follow the
curving top of the PVC. Cut the clear acrylic with a plastic-cutting
jigsaw blade.
Drill 1/4" holes along the bottom of both panels about 5/8" up from
the edge of the panel. Space the holes 2 1/2" from ends, then every
16". Also mark and drill rib locations on the roof panels about 6" up
from bottom, spacing the holes at 1 5/8" and 33 1/4" from each end.
Install the panels 1 1/2" up from the bottom of the 2 × 3 with the
roofing screws. The ends of the panels should extend 1" beyond the
2 × 3s.
Adjust the PVC ribs until the predrilled holes in the roof panels are
centered on them, then predrill the PVC with a 1/8" bit. Fasten the
panels to the two center ribs.
Lap the second sheet over the first, leaving roughly the same
amount of panel hanging over the 2 × 3. Fasten the second sheet
the same way as the first. Insert filler strips at each end under the
polycarbonate, then drill through those into the PVC ribs. Now add
additional screws about every 1/6". You can just predrill the holes
with the 1/8" bit (the polycarbonate panels are soft enough that the
screws will drive through them without cracking).
Set the clear acrylic end panels in place, butting them against the
filler at the top. Mark screw locations. Place the panel on a piece of
plywood and predrill with a 1/4" diameter bit to avoid cracking the
clear acrylic, which isn’t as soft or flexible as the polycarbonate.
Screw the panels in place with roofing screws, hand-tightening with a
screwdriver to avoid cracking the clear acrylic. Don’t overtighten.
Mount the canopy to the cold frame base with two exterior hinges.
The canopy frame should fit flush over the base on all sides. Screw
in two hook-and-eye latches in front.
Attach a prop stick to each side with a stainless steel bolt and nut.
Insert three washers (or more) between the prop stick and the 2 × 6
base so the prop stick clears the clear acrylic side panel. Drill a few
additional 5/16" holes in the stick and the frame for the eyebolts, so
that you can prop the canopy open at different heights. Now, prepare
the ground and place the cold frame in the desired location. Anchor
the base to the ground using 16" treated stakes or heavy-duty metal
angles driven into the ground and secured to the frame.
RESOURCES
ACG Greenhouses
888 888 9050
www.littlegreenhouse.com

American Institute of Architects 800 364 9364

www.aiaonline.com

American Society of Landscape Architects 202 898 2444

www.asla.org

Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association 202 207 0917

www.asphaltroofing.com

The Betty Mills Company

www.bettymills.com

The Big eZee

Metal Kit Sheds
101 N. Fourth St.
Breese, IL 62230
800 851 1085

Black & Decker (US), Inc.

800 544 6986
www.blackanddecker.com
www.bdk.com

Brick Institute of America 703 620 0010

www.brickinfo.org

California Redwood Association 888 225 7339

www.calredwood.org

Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau 604 820 7700

www.cedarbureau.org

Certified Wood Products Council 503 224 2205

www.certifiedwood.org

Construction Materials Recycling Association 630 548 4510

www.cdrecycling.com

Finley Products, Inc.

888 626 5301
www.2×4basics.com

Greenhouses.com
800 681 3302
www.greenhouses.com

GreenhouseKit.com
877 718 2865
www.greenhousekit.com

HDA Inc.
www.houseplansandmore.com

Juliana Greenhouses
www.julianagreenhouses.com
Masonry Society
303 939 9700
www.masonrysociety.com

National Concrete Masonry Association 703 713 1900

www.ncma.org

Paint Quality Institute

www.paintquality.com

Portland Cement Association 847 966 6200

www.portcement.com

Simpson Strong-Tie Co.

800 999 5099
www.strongtie.com

Southern Pine Council

www.southernpine.com

Sturdy-built Greenhouses
Redwood greenhouse kits
800 344 4115
www.sturdi-built.com

Summerwood Products
866 519 4634
www.summerwood.com
PHOTO CREDITS
BLACK+DECKER: 19 (top)
Borgert: 119 (top)
California Redwood Association: 27 (left) Chip Spitzer
Construction: 127
Distinctive Designs: 359 (bottom) Garden Picture Library: 85
(bottom) Jerry Pavia: 100, 102 (top, both), 126, 318
Shutterstock: 22, 82, 102 (bottom, both), 113, 191 (bottom), 236,
322, 464, 496, 497
Sunporch Structures, Inc.: 370 (all) Tony Giammarino: 119 (bottom
right), 127
METRIC CONVERSIONS
Metric Equivalent

Converting Measurements
To Convert: To: Multiply by:
Inches Millimeters 25.4
Inches Centimeters 2.54
Feet Meters 0.305
Yards Meters 0.914
Miles Kilometers 1.609
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45
Square feet Square meters 0.093
Square yards Square meters 0.836
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546)
Ounces Grams 28.4
Pounds Kilograms 0.454
Tons Metric tons 0.907
Millimeters Inches 0.039
Centimeters Inches 0.394
Meters Feet 3.28
Meters Yards 1.09
Kilometers Miles 0.621
Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Grams Ounces 0.035
Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Metric tons Tons 1.1

Converting Temperatures

Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following

this simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature
reading. Then mulitply that number by 5/9. For example, 77°F - 32
= 45. 45 × 5/9 = 25°C.

To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the

Celsius temperature reading by 9/5, then add 32. For example, 25°C
× 9/5 = 45. 45 + 32 = 77°F.
INDEX
A
aluminum, 12
Arbor Retreat
about, 324
construction, 330–335
materials, 326
plans, 327–329
arbors
adding trellis, 356–357
Arbor Retreat
about, 324
construction, 330–335
materials, 326
plans, 327–329
freestanding, 351
Patio Arbor/Trellis Enclosure
about, 350
construction, 352–355
trellis construction, 356–357
ashlar, 14, 318–321

B
Backyard Fire Pit, 538–541
bamboo, 239, 286–289
barbecues, 24–25
benches
 deck-mounted, 229–231
edge-mounted, deck, 232–233
Simple Potting Bench, 528–531
Boardwalk Deck on a Slab, 86–89
bocce court, 496–499
bricks
brick paver edging, 50
cutting, 70, 109
as material for walls, 239
pathways
mortared pathway over concrete, 82–85
sandset brick walkway, 66–71
patios
mortared paver patio, 150–153
paver patterns, 111
permeable subbases for patios, 132–135
sandset brick patio, 106–111
selecting, 118
See also paver bricks/slabs
building codes
common, 22–25
concrete patios and, 143
decks, 25, 156–161, 190, 206, 211, 234, 506
sunporches and, 368
building materials
cast blocks, 13
composite materials, 12
concrete, 15
estimating needs, 16–17
 fences and, 238–239
lumber, 10–11
metals, 12
mortar, 15
natural stone, 14
patios and, 29
plastics, 12
steps and, 29
walkways and, 29
building permits, 22
building sites
checking for square, 45
excavating, 45–46
laying out, 43–44
prepping excavated, 47

C
cast blocks
estimating needs, 16
as material for walls, 239
types of, 13
See also bricks; concrete; landscape blocks cedar timbers. See
landscape timbers
chain link, 239
Circular Paver Patio, 120–125
Classic Garden Bridge, 542–545
Cobblestone Paver Patio, 113–118
cobblestones, 113
cold frame boxes, 546–549
composite building materials, 12, 239
compost bins, 532–537
concrete
blocks, 13
coloring, 80
curb edging, 52–53
custom surfacing of, 80
estimating needs, 17, 143
finishing, 144
mixing, 181
molded decorative concrete paths, 78–81
path molds, 78
paver bricks, 13
poured, 15
poured concrete walkways, 72–77
slab patio, 143–149
stepping stone path with concrete pavers, 65
timber and concrete garden steps, 95–99
See also landscape blocks
concrete path molds, 78
Concrete Slab Patio, 143–149
copper pipe, 12

D
deck planters, 502–505
decks
beams
building codes and, 190
fabricating, 191
notched-post, 195
 post connection with one-piece saddle, 194
post connection with two-piece saddle, 193
benches
about, 228
deck-mounted, 229–231
edge-mounted, 232–233
boardwalk on concrete slab, 86–89
building codes and, 25, 156–161
building overview, 162–165
deck post installation, 184–189
decking
attaching, 202–204
composite/PVC, 205
floating island type, 220–227
footings
digging, 178–180
estimating concrete for, 179
locating deck, 172–177
post anchor attachment, 185–186
pouring, 182–183
joists
hanging, 197–201
lumber for, 196
laying decking boards, 165
ledgers
counterboring, 168
masonry foundation walls and, 170
rim joist attachment, 168–169
siding and, 167
 sizing openings for, 167
stucco walls and, 171
posts
about, 184
post anchor attachment, 185–186
setting, 186–189
privacy screens, 506–509
railings
basics of, 210
building codes and, 211
installation, 165, 212–218
style variations, 219
types of, 211
runoff gutters, 365–367
skirting
building codes and, 234
installation, 234–235
stairs
building, 165, 208–209
building codes and, 206
stringer construction, 207
under-deck enclosure systems
about, 358
components, 359
installation, 360–364
Decorative Concrete Path, 78–81
DIY Gabled Greenhouse
about, 386
construction, 388–391
 doors for, 391
materials and tools, 387
DIY Playset
about, 474
climbing rope, 483
construction, 477–480
hardware for, 474
ladder construction, 481
materials, 476
slide attachment, 482
DIY Swingset, 484–487
drainage
patios and, 33, 136
perimeter trenches, 33
routing drainpipes, 367
runoff gutters, 365–367
driveways, common ordinances, 23

E
edging
brick paver, 50
concrete curb, 52–53
invisible, 49
landscape timber, 54
lumber, 55
mortared brick paver, 85
rigid paver, 49
stone edging, 51
timing of, 48
edging blocks, 13
electrical lines, 22, 26, 27, 32

F
fasteners, 21
fences
bamboo
about, 286
existing fence coverage with, 289
reducing panel length, 288
wood-frame fence construction, 287–288
building materials for, 238–239
chain link, 279–281
about, 278
anatomy of, 279
California-style, 283–284
gates for, 278, 282
privacy tape/slats, 285
weaving panels, 281
common ordinances, 23
invisible pet, 290–295
iron, traditional, 277
ornamental metal, 274–277
picket, 248–251
post and board
about, 252
capped, 256
construction, 253–254
modern privacy fence, 257
 notched-post, 255
split rail, 258–261
vinyl panel, 270–273
Virginia rail, 262–265
wood composite, 266–269
wood panel
about, 240
building, 243–245
face-mounted, 246–247
installation, 242
panel board variations, 241
See also gates
fiberglass-reinforced plastic (FRP), 12
fieldstone, 14
fire pits
Backyard Fire Pit, 538–541
common ordinances, 24–25
flagstone, 14
Flagstone Garden Steps, 101–105
Flagstone Patio, 127–131
Floating Island Octagon Deck, 220–227
Freestanding Kit Greenhouse
about, 392
construction, 394–399
inspecting components, 393
tools for construction, 393

G
Gabled House with Entry Deck
 construction, 456–463
plans, 452–455
garden accessories
Classic Garden Bridge, 542–545
cold frame boxes, 546–549
compost bins
about, 532
composting, 532
construction, 535–537
plans and materials, 534
Jumbo Cold Frame
about, 550
construction, 552–554
plans and materials, 551
Simple Potting Bench, 528–531
See also fire pits; greenhouses; sheds garden structures
Arbor Retreat
about, 324
construction, 330–335
materials, 326
plans, 327–329
building codes and, 323
Patio Arbor/Trellis Enclosure
about, 350
construction, 352–355
trellis construction, 356–357
Patio Enclosure
about, 336–337
construction, 340–349
 materials, 338–339
plans, 338
sunporches
about, 368–369
anchoring options, 373
attachment options, 371
building codes and, 368
components, 370
door installation, 382, 384–385
frame construction, 375–380
materials and terms, 374
site preparation, 372
slope and, 375
ventilation and, 372
window installation, 380–384
See also greenhouses; sheds
garden walls. See walls
gates
chain link, 278, 282
prefabricated installation, 245
in sample patio plan, 37
for split rail fences, 261
treehouse, 448
vinyl panel, 273
See also fences
gazebos, in sample patio plan, 39
gravel, estimating needs, 16
greenhouses
DIY Gabled Greenhouse
 about, 386
construction, 388–391
doors for, 391
materials and tools, 387
Freestanding Kit Greenhouse
about, 392
construction, 394–399
inspecting components, 393
tools for constructions, 393
PVC Hoophouse, 400–405
See also cold frame boxes; Jumbo Cold Frame H
hand tools, 18
hardware, 21
for composite decking, 205
for fences/walls, 238–239
playset, 474

I
International Residential Code, 156

J
Jumbo Cold Frame, 550–554

L
ladders
playset, 481
treehouse, 448, 463
land measurements, 26
landscape blocks
about, 239
 cutting facets, 300
dry-stacked stone retaining wall, 318–321
free standing patio wall, 296–301
interlocking-block retaining wall, 310–315
outdoor kitchen and countertop, 302–305
landscape timbers
cutting, 92
edging from, 54
garden steps with concrete, 95–99
garden steps with gravel, 91–94
retaining walls, 316–317
Lean-To Tool Bin
about, 424
construction, 431–433
materials, 426
plans, 427–430
Loose Rock Landscape Path, 56–61
lumber
boardwalk deck on slab, 86–89
for deck posts, 184
edging from, 55
as fence material, 238
reading stamps on, 11
sealing, 11
selecting, 10–11

M
Mailbox Stand, 510–513
manufactured stone, 13
masonry tools, 20
metals, 12
Modern Post and Board Privacy Fence, 257
mortar, 15
Mortared Brick over a Concrete Path, 82–85
Mortared Paver Patio, 150–153

N
natural stone
choosing stepping stones, 62
estimating needs, 16
flagstone patio, 127–131
flagstone steps, 101–105
as material for walls, 239
permeable subbases for patios, 132–135
retaining wall, 318–321
stone edging, 51
trimming, 51
types of, 14
neighbors, 22

O
obstacles, 27
Open-Air Treehouse
about, 436
construction, 441–448
plans, 438–440
Outdoor Kitchen Walls & Countertop, 302–305

P
pathways
building materials for, 29
cast materials for, 13
common ordinances, 23
decorative molded concrete, 78–81
design considerations, 30–31
laying out, 67
loose-rock gravel pathway, 56–61
mortared brick over concrete, 82–85
natural stone for, 14
poured concrete, 72–77
sandset brick, 66–71
spacer gauges, 58
stepping stone, 62–65
tamping gravel, 60
for wheelbarrows, 134
See also edging
Patio Arbor/Trellis Enclosure
about, 350
construction, 352–355
trellis construction, 356–357
Patio Enclosure
about, 336–337
construction, 340–349
materials, 338–339
plans, 338
patios
access and, 32
adding stone walls to, 127
atmosphere and, 32
batterboards for layout, 42–45
building materials and, 29
checking for square, 45
circular paver, 120–125
climate considerations, 34–35
cobblestone paver, 113–118
common ordinances, 23, 32, 42, 143
concrete slab, 143–149
design considerations, 30–31
drainage and, 33
drop distance and, 42, 44
excavating site for, 45–46
flagstone, 127–131
laying out, 43–45
mock-ups, 30
mortared paver over concrete, 150–153
next to houses, 146
Pario Arbor/Trellis Enclosure
about, 350
constructions, 352–355
trellis construction, 356–357
Patio Enclosure
about, 336–337
construction, 340–349
materials, 338–339
plans, 338
permeable subbases for rock or masonry, 132–135
placement of structures on, 31
 plants for stone, 131
prepping excavated site, 47
sample plans for, 37–41
sandset brick, 106–111
spaced masonry paver, 136–141
See also edging
paver bricks/slabs
brick paver edging, 50
cobblestones, 113
curves with, 118
cutting, 109
estimating needs, 16
fan-shaped, 121
flagstone steps, 101–105
patios
circular patio, 120–125
cobblestone paver patio, 113–118
mortared paver patio, 150–153
permeable subbases for patios, 132–135
spaced masonry paver patio, 136–141
paver patters, 111
rigid paver edging, 49
selecting, 118
spacers for, 138
types of, 13
See also bricks
pets, invisible fences for, 290–295
plans
about plan view, 36
 drawing, 36
sample patio, 37–41
planters, deck, 502–505
plastic, 12
play structures
DIY Playset
about, 474
climbing rope, 483
construction, 477–480
hardware for, 474
ladder construction, 481
materials, 476
slide attachment, 482
DIY Swingset, 484–487
mulch for, 465
precut kits
about, 466
components of, 467
installation, 468–473
slide attachment, 473
safety and, 464–465
skateboard ramps, 490–495
tree swings, 488–489
See also bocce court; treehouses
plumbing lines, 22, 26, 27, 32
ponds, common ordinances, 25
Porch Swing
about, 514
construction, 516–520
 hanging, 521
plans and materials, 515
Porch Swing Stand
about, 522
construction, 524–526
plans and materials, 523
swing installation, 526–527
porches, common ordinances, 24
Poured Concrete Walkway, 72–77
power augers, 179
power lines, 22, 26, 27, 32
power tools, 19
privacy screens, 506–509
property lines, 26
PVC Hoophouse, 400–405
PVC vinyl, 12

R
rental tools, 19
retaining walls
common ordinances, 25
interlocking block, 310–315
landscape timber, 316–317
stone, 318–321
river rock, 14
rubble, 14
runoff gutters, deck, 365–367

S
sand, estimating needs, 16
Sandset Brick Patio, 106–111
Sandset Brick Walkway, 66–71
screed guides, 116
screened porches, 39
sewer lines, 22, 26, 27, 32
sheds
common ordinances, 24, 25
kit
about, 433
anchoring metal, 415
metal kit assembly, 410–415
metal maintenance, 415
selecting, 408–409
wooden construction, 417–423
wooden delivery, 416
wooden site preparation, 416
Lean-To Tool Bin
about, 424
construction, 431–433
materials, 426
plans, 427–430
sidewalks, common ordinances, 23
Simple Potting Bench, 528–531
site plans, 26
skateboard ramps, 490–495
slopes
concrete walkways and, 73
dry-stacked stone walls and, 309
fencing and, 27
 sample patio plan and, 38
sunporch base and, 375
See also steps
Spaced Masonry Pavers, 136–141
spacer gauges, 58
square, checking for, 45
stairs
building codes and deck, 206
building deck, 208–209
dry-stacked stone walls and, 309
stringer construction, 207
Stepping Stone Landscape Path, 62–65
steps
building materials for, 29
common ordinances, 23
design considerations, 30–31
flagstone steps, 101–105
timber and concrete garden steps, 95–99
timber and gravel garden steps, 91–94
sunporches
about, 368–369
anchoring options, 373
attachment options, 371
building codes and, 368
components, 370
door installation, 382, 384–385
frame construction, 375–380
materials and terms, 374
site preparation, 372
 slope and, 375
ventilation and, 372
window installation, 380–384
swimming pools, common ordinances, 24
swingsets. See play structures

T
tools
GFCI extension cords and, 19
hand tools, 18
importance of quality, 18
landscaping, 19
masonry, 20
power, 19
rental, 19
topsoil, estimating needs, 16
tree swings, 488–489
treehouses
Gabled Houese with Entry Deck
construction, 456–463
plans, 452–455
Open-Air Treehouse
about, 436
construction, 441–448
plans, 438–440
trees for, 451

U
utility lines, 22, 26, 27, 32
V
veneer stone, 14
ventilation, 372
vinyl fencing materials, 239

W
walkways. See pathways
wall stone, 14
walls
building materials for, 238–239
cast block materials for, 13
common ordinances, 24
landscape block
about, 296
columns for, 301
cutting facets, 300
freestanding construction, 298–300
laying out freestanding, 297
outdoor kitchen and countertop, 302–305
natural stone for, 14
stone, dry-stacked, 306–309
See also retaining walls
wheelbarrow paths, 134
white oak, 348
wood, 238
See also lumber
wrought iron, 12, 277

Y
yard structures. See garden structures
yard surveys, 26

Z
zoning ordinances
overview, 22
patios, 32
© 2016 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.

First published in 2016 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of Quarto

Publishing Group USA Inc., 400 First Avenue North, Suite 400,
Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. Telephone: (612) 344-8100
Fax: (612) 344-8692

quartoknows.com
Visit our blogs at quartoknows.com

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form
without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book
have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists
concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or
printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the
contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that
credits accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any
inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing
information in a subsequent reprinting of the book.

Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discounts in bulk quantity for
industrial or sales-promotional use. For details contact the Special Sales
Manager at Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc., 400 First Avenue North,
Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA.

Digital edition: 978-0-76035-082-9

Hardcover edition: 978-1-59186-667-1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Black &
Decker Corporation (Towson, Md.) Title: Complete outdoor builder.
Other titles: Black & Decker the complete outdoor builder Description:
Minneapolis, MN, USA : Cool Springs Press, an imprint of Quarto
Publishing Group USA Inc., 2016.
Identifiers: LCCN 2015042670 | ISBN 9780760350829 (plc) Subjects:
LCSH: Garden structures--Design and construction-- Amateurs’
manuals. | Building, Wooden--Amateurs’ manuals. | Outbuildings--
Design and construction--Amateurs’ manuals. | Woodwork--Amateurs’
manuals. | Masonry--Amateurs’ manuals. | Do-it-yourself work--
Amateurs’ manuals.
Classification: LCC TH4961 .C655 2016 | DDC 690/.89--dc23
LC record available at http://lccn.loc.gov/2015042670

Acquiring Editor: Mark Johanson

Project Manager: Alyssa Bluhm
Art Director: Brad Springer
Layout: Danielle Smith-Boldt

BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The

Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.

NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following
the procedures described in this book. The publisher and
BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage
to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the
information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for
various applications. In some instances, additional techniques
not shown in this book may be required. Always follow
manufacturers’ instructions included with products, since
deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in
this book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be
appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require
professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on
building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to your
project.