Designer’s Guide:

Fabric Dictionary

Your Reference Guide for

Researching Textiles
Brought to you by
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

B
Barathea - A closely woven fabric made of silk, rayon, cotton, or wool, having a
pebbled surface. Barathea is mainly used for dresses, neckties, trimmings and
suits.

Barkcloth - Originally, the term referred to a fabric found throughout the South
Pacific and is made from the inner bark of certain trees. The bark is beaten into
a paper-like fabric, then dyed or otherwise colored. Tapa cloth is one of the best
known types of true barkcloth. Barkcloth is a term that also refers to a fabric,
often cotton or rayon, with a somewhat crepe-like feel that is designed to
resemble true barkcloth. This fabric is used extensively for draperies, slipcovers,
and other home furnishings.

Batik - Batik describes a special technique of resist dyeing which was first used
in Indonesia. Before dyeing the fabric is pile-spread with wax. The waxed areas
remain in the original color while the rest of the fabric adopts the dyeing color. To
get the typical veined effect to the design the wax is cracked. Today, it is largely
produced in an industrial way.

Basket Weave - A variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treating

two or more warp yarns and/or two or more filling yarns as one unit in the
weaving process. Yarns in a basket weave are laid into the woven construction
flat, and maintain a parallel relationship. Both balanced and unbalanced basket
weave fabrics can be produced. Examples of basket weave construction includes
monk cloth and oxford cloth.

2
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Batiste - A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton

blends. End-uses include blouses and dresses.

Batting - Traditionally the middle layer, or stuffing, of a quilt. Batting can be

made from cotton, polyester, silk, wool or a blend of these. Different types of
batting vary in size and fiber content. Batting also helps conserve warmth.

Beaded - This refers to any style of fabric that has beads embroidered into
the design. Beading can be done at the time the fabric is made or can be re-
embroidered after the fabric is made.

Bedford Cord - A cord cotton-like fabric with raised ridges in the lengthwise
direction. Since the fabric has a high strength and a high durability, it is often
used for upholstery and work clothes.

Bengaline - A ribbed fabric similar to faille, but heavier and with a coarser rib
in the filling direction. lt can be made of silk, wool, acetate, or rayon warp, with
wool or cotton filling. The fabric was first made in Bengal, India, and is used for
dresses, coats, trimmings, and draperies.

Berber Fleece - Berber fleece is made when the yarn is knitted into fabric, which
is brushed with wire brushes to pull the material together and to fluff it up. The
resulting material has a looped, soft pile, with large air pockets, which improve
the insulating properties of the fabric. The pile is sheared to create an even
length. Synthetic materials such as polyester are most frequently used to create
Berber fleece, which tends to be strong, stretchy, and colorfast. In addition to
being warm, Berber fleece is also designed to wick moisture away from the
surface of the wearer. It will also not absorb moisture as readily as some natural
fibers, since synthetics are water resistant. Berber fleece is a fabric that is very
lightweight, warm, and soft. It is often compared to fur, because of the incredibly
soft texture it has.

3
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Birdseye - Fabric with a woven-in dobby design. The pattern has a center dot
and resembles the eye of a bird. It is used in cotton diapers, pique, and wool
sharkskin.

Boiled Wool - This is a felted knitted wool that it offers the flexibility of a knit
with great warmth. Create your own by washing double the needed amount of
100% wool jersey in hot water and drying in a hot dryer. Expect 50% shrinkage.
Appropriate for jackets, vests and stuffed animals.

Bonded - A fabric composed of 2 or more layers joined together with an adhesive,

resin, foam, or fusible membrane.

Boucle - A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn.
The fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in sportswear and
coats

Broadcloth - A plain weave tightly woven fabric, characterized by a slight ridge

effect in one direction, usually the filling. The most common broadcloth is made
from cotton or cotton/polyester blends.

Brocade - A heavy, exquisite jacquard type fabric with an all-over raised pattern or
floral design. Common end-uses include such formal applications as upholstery,
draperies, and eveningwear.

Brushed - A finishing process for knit or woven fabrics in which brushes or other
abrading devices are used on a loosely constructed fabric to permit the fibers
in the yarns to be raised to create a nap on fabrics or create a novelty surface
texture.

Buckram – Mainly cotton and sometimes synthetic. A cheap, low-textured, loose

weave, very heavily sized and stiff fabric. Also, 2 fabrics are glued together; one

4
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

is open weave and the other much finer. Some is also made in linen in a single
fabric. Also called crinoline book muslin or book binding. Buckram softens
with heat and can be shaped while warm. Used for interlinings and all kinds of
stiffening in clothes, book binding, and for millinery (because it can be moistened
and shaped). Used to give stiffness to leather garments not as stiff and often
colored is called “tarlatan”. Buckram is originally from Bukhara a city in west Asia
from whence the cloth was exported.

Bull Denim – A twill weave cotton denim fabric that is soft but tough as nails.
Bull Denim is durable and heavier than regular denim. It takes dye well with very
good results. Not stiff like canvas.

Bunting - Bunting is a loosely woven cloth traditionally made of wool, but

now often made with polyester. Bunting is mainly used for flags and festive
decorations. It is also known as banner cloth.

Burlap - A loosely constructed, heavy weight, plain weave fabric used as a carpet
backing, and as inexpensive packaging for sacks of grain or rice. Also, as fashion
dictates, burlap may also appear as a drapery fabric.

Burn-Out - A brocade-like pattern effect created on the fabric through the

application of a chemical, instead of color, during the burn-out printing process.
(Sulfuric acid, mixed into a colorless print paste, is the most common chemical
used.) Many simulated eyelet effects can be created using this method. In these
instances, the chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in a
specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric. The fabric is
then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch to create the eyelet effect.
However, burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers,
in which the ground fabric is of one fiber like a polyester, and the pile may be of
a cellulosic fiber like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical is printed
in a certain pattern, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes

5
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

in contact with the fabric, but leave the ground fabric unharmed.

C
Calico - A tightly-woven cotton type fabric with an all-over print, usually a small
floral pattern on a contrasting background color. Common end-uses include
dresses, aprons, and quilts.

Canton Flannel - Four harness warp-faced twill weave. Characteristics The

filling yarn is a very loosely twisted and soft and later brushed to produced a
soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in size. The face is a twill. Heavy, warm,
strong and absorbent. Named for Canton, China where it was first made. Comes
bleached, unbleached, dyed, and some is printed. Used in Interlinings, sleeping
garments, linings, coverings, work gloves.

Canvas - Cotton, linen, or synthetic fabric made with a basic plain weave in
heavy and firm weight yarns for industrial or heavy duty purposes. Also referred
to as “duck”, although the term “canvas” usually relates to the heavier coarser
constructions.

Challis - A lightweight, soft plain weave fabric with a slightly brushed surface.
The fabric is often printed, usually in a floral pattern. Challis is most often seen
in fabrics made of cotton, wool, or rayon.

Chambray - A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or
manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored
warp (often blue) and white filling yarns

Chantilly Lace – One of the most popular of bridal laces often used for the
trimming on bridal veils. It is made by the bobbin method and has designs

6
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

outlined by thick cords.

Chamois –Chamois cloth is woven to imitate the leather, usually has a slightly
napped surface, and is usually yellow, as is the goat skin. It is used for gloves and
as a cloth for washing autos. It is also used in clothing.

Charmeuse - Charmeuse is an opaque, shiny fabric that is similar to satin

but lighter weight. Charmeuse also has a softer hand and a clingier look. Silk,
polyester and rayon fabrics are commonly given a charmeuse finish. Charmeuse
is often used for blouses and intimate apparel.

Cheesecloth - A lightweight, sheer, plain-woven fabric with a very soft texture.

It may be natural colored, bleached, or dyed. It usually has a very low yarn count.
When dyed it may be called bunting and could be used for flags or banners.

Chenille -. A specialty yarn, characterized by a pile protruding on all sides,

resembling a caterpillar. The yarn is produced by first weaving a fabric with a
cotton or linen warp and a silk, wool, rayon, or cotton filling. The warp yarns are
taped in groups of tightly woven filling yarns, which have been beaten in very
closely. After weaving, the fabric is cut into strips between the yarn groups. Each
cutting produces a continuous chenille yarn, which is then twisted, creating the
chenille yarn, and giving the pile appearance on all sides of the yarn. The chenille
yarn is used mainly for decorative fabrics, embroidery, tassels, and rugs.

Chiffon - A plain woven lightweight, extremely sheer, airy, and soft silk fabric,
containing highly twisted filament yarns. The fabric, used mainly in evening
dresses and scarves, can also be made from rayon and other manufactured
fibers.

China Silk - A plain weave silk of various weights. This silk is the “hand” or touch
that many people identify as silk. There are various weights of China silk from

7
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

light, used for linings and many “washable silks” with the wrinkled look, to heavy
for shirts and dresses.

China Twill – A lightweight cotton twill fabric. China Twill is 6-7 ounces per yard
and is typically used for blouses, shirts and light weight skirts. See Twill.

Chintz - Glazed plain weave cotton fabric with a tightly spun fine warp and a
coarser slack twist filling, often printed with brightly colored flowers or stripes.
Named from Hindu word meaning spotted. Several types of glazes are used in
the finishing process. Some glazes wash out in laundering, but others such as
resin finishes are permanent. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Chintz end-
uses include draperies, slipcovers, skirts, and summer dresses, and shirts.

Cire – A finishing process that produces a high gloss on the surface on the fabric
by passing it through heavy rollers (calendering). Fabrics made of thermoplastic
fibers like nylon or polyester are cired by calendering with heat and pressure
alone. Other fabrics like rayons or silks are calendered with wax or other
compounds. Cire fabrics have a much higher shine than glazed fabrics and are
usually somewhat slippery.

Clips - A fabric decorated with small woven spots of extra warp or filling yarn-
the floating threads between the spots being clipped or sheared in finishing.
Also known as clip-spot fabric.

Cloque - Term used to describe a fabric with a raised effect Jacquard, usually
knitted from two colors, and often used interchangeably with matelasse and
blister. Cotton cloque is frequently popular for summer dress and jacket or coat
costumes.

Coated - Fabrics that have been coated with a lacquer, varnish, rubber, plastic
resin of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene, or other substance to make them

8
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

longer lasting or impervious to water or other liquids.

Coating - A term used to describe a fabric suitable for outerwear, such as coats,
as in coating fabric. Also, something applied to a finished fiber or fabric, such
as a rubber coating to make a fabric impervious to water. Coating suggests a
thicker layer of the substance than does the word finish. A rubber-coated fabric
is probably more resistant to water than one that has been treated with a water-
resistant finish.

CoolMax® - CoolMax® is the brand name of a series of high-performance

fabrics designed and marketed mainly for sportswear .that are designed to
wick moisture away from the skin. CoolMax® was created using four channel
polyester fibers that are woven together in cross sections to allow air to flow
through the fabric. The fabrics employ specially-engineered polyester fibers to
improve “breathability” compared to natural fibers like cotton. CoolMax® is a
lightweight, durable fabric that is temperature regulating and keeps the skin dry
and warm. It is comfortable and form fitting which makes it ideal for layering

Coolmax™ EcoTech™ - This ultimate performance fabric delivers the same high-
performance, quick-dry benefits and comfort as the original Coolmax® fabric,
but has the added benefit of being made from recycled resources. The process
for making Coolmax™ EcoTech™ fiber begins with post-consumer bottles made
of polyethylene terephthalate, or PET.

Corduroy - A fabric with a pile that is usually in rows that are parallel to the
selvedge. The pile is formed by weaving the fabric with two types of picks –
binder picks that ‘hold the fabric together’, and pile picks that go over an number
of warps on the face side of the fabric. The pile picks are sliced open after weaving
in a process known as cutting. The ridges are built so that clear lines can be seen
when the pile is cut. The fabric is then desized and bleached, and then brushed
to develop the pile into uniform races that are known as wales. Corduroy is

9
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

classified by the number of wales or cords to the inch. The foundation of the
fabric can be either a plain or twill weave. It is traditionally made of cotton but
may be cotton blends or other fibers as well. Of all cotton fabrics, corduroy is
the warmest because its wales form an insulated cushion of air. It is common in
men’s women’s and children’s apparel especially trousers.

Coutil - Coutil (or Coutille) is woven cloth created specifically for making corsets. It
is woven tightly to inhibit penetration of the corset’s bones and resist stretching.
Coutil has a high cotton content. Cotton has good dimensional stability, or
a resistance to stretching, which makes it a good choice for such a stressed
garment. Coutil may be plain (similar to 100% cotton facing), satin, or brocade.
It is also common for coutil to have a herringbone texture, or a similar woven
texture.

Covert – Made with two shades of color e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp
is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) and filling 1 ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and
closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used as a hunting fabric.
Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart
appearance. Light in weight. Used for over coating for both men and women. It
is also made waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.

Crash – Typically made of Linen. It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Come in
white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn
is strong, irregular in diameter but smooth. Has a fairly good texture. Used for
toweling, suitings, dresses, coats.

Crepe - A lightweight fabric of silk, rayon, cotton, wool, man-made, or blended

fibers, and characterized by a crinkled surface. This surface is obtained through
the use of crepe yarns (yarns that have such a high twist that the yarn kinks),
and by chemical treatment with caustic soda, embossing, or weaving (usually
with thicker warp yarns and thinner filling yarns). Although crepe is traditionally

10
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

woven, crepe yarns are now used to produce knit crepes.

Crepe-Back Satin - A satin fabric in which highly twisted yarns are used in the
filling direction. The floating yarns are made with low twist and may be of either
high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric, the fabric is
called satin-back crepe.

Crepe De Chine – Traditionally, a very sheer, pebbly, washable silk with the fabric
degummed to produce crinkle. Today, it is a sheer, flat crepe in silk or man-made
fibers. It is used for lingerie, dresses, and blouses.

Crepon – Crêpe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate
S and Z, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist. Originally a wool Crêpe
but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and more rugged than the
average Crêpe. Has a wavy texture with the “waves” running in a lengthwise
direction. Mostly used for prints. Used for dresses and blouses.

Crewel – Crewel is a hand embroidery technique in which fine, loosely twisted

yarn is chain stitched on cotton cloth. Imperfections, color variations, irregularities,
natural black specks, dye marks, and dirt spots are characteristics that identify
crewel as genuine. Most crewel designs are outlines of flowers, vines or leaves.

Crinkle – A fabric with an uneven surface, created by use of caustic soda that
causes it to shrink unevenly. Plisse is an example of a crinkle crepe fabric. Crinkle
crepe and plisse usually have a larger pattern to surface irregularities than crepe.

Crinoline - A lightweight, plain weave, stiffened fabric with a low yarn count (few
yarns to the inch in each direction).

Crushed – Any fabric that has been treated so as to have a permanently crinkled,
crushed or rumpled appearance.

11
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Crushed Velvet – Any velvet with an irregular pattern of nap going in different
directions. The pattern gives the fabric a “crushed or rumpled” appearance.

D
Damask - A glossy jacquard fabric, usually made from linen, cotton, rayon, silk,
or blends. The patterns are flat and reversible. The fabric is often used in napkins,
tablecloths, draperies, and upholstery.

Dazzle - A type of polyester fabric that is widely used in making clothes like
basketball uniforms, football uniforms, rugby ball uniforms and even casual
clothing because it absorbs moisture quickly. It is a lightweight fabric that
easily allows the body to receive ventilation during workouts, playing sports
and engaging in just about any outside activity. Dazzle fabric is distinguished
by the pattern of tiny holes in the weave of the material. To the touch, dazzle
is soft and somewhat like silk, although it is far more sturdy than silk. Dazzle
is extremely durable due to the tightly woven polyester fibers, which makes it
nearly impossible to tear.

Denim - True denim is a twill weave cotton-like fabric made with different
colored yarns in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill construction, one color
predominates on the fabric surface.

Dobby Weave - A decorative weave, characterized by small figures, usually

geometric, that are woven into the fabric structure. Dobbies may be of any
weight or compactness, with yarns ranging from very fine to coarse and fluffy.
Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer. However,
some heavyweight dobby fabrics are available for home furnishings and for
heavy apparel.

12
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Doeskin - Generally used to describe a type of fabric finish in which a low nap
is brushed in one direction to create a soft suede-like feel on the fabric surface.
End-uses include billiard table surfaces and men’s’ sportswear.

Donegal Tweed - A medium to heavy, plain or twill weave fabric in which colorful
yarn slubs are woven into the fabric. The name originally applied to a hand-
woven thick woolen tweed fabric made in Donegal, Ireland. End-uses include
winter coats and suits.

Dotted Swiss - A lightweight, sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with a small
dot flock-like pattern either printed on the surface of the fabric, or woven into
the fabric. End-uses for this fabric include blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and
curtains

Double Faced - A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the
loom at the same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving process, the
two layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven
patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different.

Double Knit - A fabric knitted on a circular knitting machine using interlocking

loops and a double stitch on a double needle frame to form a fabric with double
thickness. It is the same on both sides. Today, most double knits are made of I5O
denier polyester, although many lightweight versions are now being made using
finer denier yarns and blends of filament and spun yarns.

Double Weave - A woven fabric construction made by interlacing two or more

sets of warp yarns with two or more sets of filling yarns. The most common
double weave fabrics are made using a total of either four or five sets of yarns.

Drill – A heavy, strong, durable twilled fabric of cotton or man-made fibers,

similar to denim that has a diagonal 2×1 weave running up to the left selvage.

13
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

When strength of fabric is essential, drill is suitable for slacks, uniforms, overalls,
and work shirts.

Dryflex - Dryflex is a “high performance” knit fabric blended with Lycra. It is a

wind resistant and moisture-wicking fabric that is soft and very comfortable.
Dryflex will stretch up to 250% without memory loss over a lifetime of wear.
Dryflex is the perfect fabric for activewear as it is quick dry and easy to care for.

Duchess Satin - One of the heaviest and richest looking satins. It is usually made
of silk. It is important for such formal clothing as wedding gowns.

Duck - A tightly woven, heavy, plain-weave, bottom-weight fabric with a hard,

durable finish. The fabric is usually made of cotton, and is widely used in men’s
and women’s slacks, and children’s play clothes.

Dupioni - Silk that comes from the fiber formed by two silk worms that spun
their cocoons together in an interlocking manner. The yarn is uneven, irregular,
and larger than regular filaments. It is used to make shantung and dupioni.

E
Embossed - A calendering process in which fabrics are engraved with the use of
heated rollers under pressure to produce a raised design on the fabric surface.

Embroidered - An embellishment of a fabric or garment in which colored threads

are sewn on to the fabric to create a design. Embroidery may be done either by
hand or machine.

End-On-End – A closely woven fabric with alternating fine colored yarn and a
white yarn creating a mini checkered effect with a smooth texture. The weave is

14
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

commonly found in men’s shirts.

Eyelash - Term used to describe clipped yarns that lie on the surface of a fabric,
giving the effect of eyelashes.

Eyelet - A type of fabric which contains patterned cut-outs, around which

stitching or embroidery may be applied in order to prevent the fabric from
raveling.

F
Faille - A glossy, soft, finely-ribbed silk-like woven fabric made from cotton, silk,
or manufactured fibers

Faux Fur – A slang term for pile fabrics and garments that imitate animal pelts.
The most popular fake furs are probably those made from modacrylic fiber.

Faux Leather – A term used for imitation leathers. More cor­rectly, these should
be described by their actual construction, such as vinyl-coated fabric.

Faux Suede - A fabric with a short nap and a soft finish that suggests animal
suede.

Felt - A non-woven fabric made from wool, hair, or fur, and sometimes in
combination with certain manufactured fibers, where the fibers are locked
together in a process utilizing heat, moisture, and pressure to form a compact
material.

Fishnet - Fishnet is an open, diamond shaped knit fabric.

15
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Flannel - A medium-weight, plain or twill weave fabric that is typically made

from cotton, a cotton blend, or wool. The fabric has a very soft hand, brushed
on both sides to lift the fiber ends out of the base fabric and create a soft, fuzzy
surface. End-uses include shirts and pajamas.

Flannelette - A medium-weight, plain weave fabric with a soft hand, usually

made from cotton. The fabric is usually brushed only on one side, and is lighter
weight than flannel. End-uses include shirts and pajamas.

Fleece - A lightweight fabric with a thick, heavy fleece-like surface. It may be a pile
or napped fabric, and either woven or knit construction. End uses include coats,
jackets, blankets, etc. Fleece fabrics are available in a variety of constuctions:
Polarfleece® is the original fleece fabric, developed in 1979, by Malden Mills. It
is typically used for non-technical garments, and it is only available at Malden
Mills®; Polartec®, also developed by Malden Mills, was created for today’s high-
performance technical garments, which provides enhanced durability warmth,
wind resistance, breathability and weather protection.

Flocked- A type of raised decoration applied to the surface of a fabric in which

an adhesive is printed on the fabric in a specific pattern, and then finely chopped
fibers are applied by means of dusting, air-brushing, or electrostatic charges.
The fibers adhere only to the areas where the adhesive has been applied, and
the excess fibers are removed by mechanical means.

Foil - Foil is a high gloss mylar usually in metallic colors that pulls away from
the clear backing. Sometimes it is referred to as foil paper and other times it is
referred to as foil sheets. The foil is applied to the fabric using very high heat.

Foulard - A lightweight twill-weave fabric, made from filament yarns like silk,
acetate, polyester, with a small all-over print pattern on a solid background. The
fabric is often used in men’s ties.

16
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Four-Ply Crepe - Four ply crepe is a heavier version of regular crepe made with
four ply yarn. A four ply yarn is made from twisting together four individual yarn
strands. The resulting fabric is medium to heavy weight, smooth and flat, with
a crepe finish and a good deal of lustre. The fabric tailors and drapes beautifully
and is a favorite for bridal usage. 4 ply silks are most frequently used for bridal
gowns, semi fitted garments, dresses and suits. Fabric sews easily, but shows
pin holes and ravels fairly easily.

Four-Way Stretch - A fabric that stretches both on the crosswise and lengthwise
grains of the fabric. It is the same as two-way stretch.

French Terry - A knit jersey with loops on one side. Sometimes napped to make
fleece.

G
Gabardine - A tightly woven, twilled, worsted fabric with a slight diagonal line
on the right side. Wool gabardine is known as a year-round fabric for business
suiting. Polyester, cotton, rayon, and various blends are also used in making
gabardine.

Gauze - A thin, sheer plain-weave fabric made from cotton, wool, silk, rayon, or
other manufactured fibers. End-uses include curtains, apparel, trimmings, and
surgical dressings.

Gazar - A silk or wool fabric with crisp hand and flat, smooth texture. Plain weave
with high-twist double yarns interlaced as one.

Georgette - A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk or from such

manufactured fibers as polyester, with a crepe surface. End-uses include dresses

17
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

and blouses.

Gingham - A medium weight, plain weave fabric with a plaid or check pattern.
End-uses include dresses, shirts, and curtains.

GORE-TEX® - GORE-TEX® fabrics are created by laminating GORE-TEX®

membranes to high-performance textiles, then sealing them with an innovative
solution for guaranteed waterproof protection. GORE-TEX® is designed to be
durably waterproof, windproof, and breathable and maintain its performance for
the life of the end product. GORE-TEX® is best known for its use in protective,
yet breathable, rainwear fabrics.

Gossamer - Gossamer is a very light, sheer, gauze-like fabric, popular for white
wedding dresses and decorations.

Greige Goods – The state of a fabric as it comes from the loom or knitting
machine (after it has been constructed) but before it has been colored, finished
or processed.

H
Habutai – Soft, lightweight silk dress fabric originally woven in the gum on hand
looms in Japan. It is sometimes confused with China silk, which is technically
lighter in weight.

Heather - A yarn that is spun using pre-dyed fibers. These fibers are blended
together to give a particular look. (For example, black and white may be blended
together to create a grey heathered yarn.) The term, heather, may also be used
to describe the fabric made from heathered yarns.

18
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Herringbone – A fabric in which the pattern of weave resembles the skeletal

structure of the herring. lt is a twill weave in which the wale runs in one direction
for a few rows and then re verses, forming a “V” pattern. lt is made with a broken
twill weave that produces a balanced, zigzag effect and is used for sportswear,
suits, and coats.

Hopsack - Popular suiting fabric made from a 2-and-2 or a 3-and-3 basket

weave. Generally appear as small squares. A coarse, open woven fabric which
got its name from the plain weave fabric used for sacking in which hops were
gathered. The hopsack weave is found in silk, cotton, wool, linen, rayon, hemp,
and jute.

Houndstooth - A variation on the twill weave construction in which a broken

check effect is produced by a variation in the pattern of interlacing yarns, utilizing
at least two different colored yarns.

I
Ikat – a style of weaving that uses a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye
on either the warp or weft before the threads are woven to create a pattern or
design. A Double Ikat is when both the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before
weaving. Through common usage, the word has come to describe both the
process and the cloth itself. Ikats have been woven in cultures all over the world.
In Central and South America, Ikat is still common in Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador,
Guatemala and Mexico.

Illusion - A very fine sheer net fabric usually of nylon or silk. Used for veils.

Interfacing – Fabrics used to support, reinforce and give shape to fashion fabrics
in sewn products. Often placed between the lining and the outer fabric, it can be

19
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

made from yarns or directly from fibers, and may be either woven, non-woven,
or knitted.

Interlining - Interlining is a layer of fabric inserted between the face and the
lining of a garment, drapery, or quilt. Interlining is similar to batting, a thick layer
of fiber designed to provide insulation, loft, and body to quilts, pillow toppers,
and heavy winter jackets. Depending on the application, interlining materials can
be woven, knitted, or created by fusing fibers together. Silk, wool, and artificial
fibers with good insulating qualities are common choices for interlining. Some
interlinings are designed to be fused, while others are intended to be sewn to one
or both layers of the textile. As an inner lining within textiles, interlining is used
in a number of applications. In many cases, interlining serves as an additional
layer of insulation. For example, drapes are often interlined with flannel or a
similarly thick material to keep rooms warmer in winter and cooler in summer,
while many winter coats and pants use a thick layer of interlining to protect the
wearer from the elements.

Interlock - The stitch variation of the rib stitch, which resembles two separate 1
x 1 ribbed fabrics that are interknitted. Plain (double knit) interlock stitch fabrics
are thicker, heavier, and more stable than single knit constructions.

Irridescent - Fabric woven with yarns of one color in the warp and another color
in the filling so that the fabric seems to change color as the light strikes it. Other
names for this type of fabric are changeable and shot.

J
Jacquard - Woven fabrics manufactured by using the Jacquard attachment on
the loom. This attachment provides versatility in designs and permits individual
control of each of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or complexity

20
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

can be made. Brocade and damask are types of jacquard woven fabrics.

Jersey - The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a

fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Jersey
fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines.

L
Lace - A decorated openwork fabric created by looping, interlacing, braiding,
or twisting threads. [t is made (either on a background fabric of net or without
a background fabric) with a design formed by a net work of threads made by
hand or on special lace machines, with bobbins, needles, or hooks. The pattern
in lace is usually open and most often floral in design. Machine-made lace is
most commonly seen today and many patterns formerly only made by hand,
are imitated by machine. Lace is the traditional bridal fabric, but it is also used
for other non-formal clothing such as sports clothes. The following entries are
some of the major types of lace.

Lamé - A woven fabric using flat silver or gold metal threads to create either
the design or the background in the fabric. Lame is usually gold or silver in color;
sometimes copper lamé is seen. Lamé comes in different varieties, depending on
the composition of the other threads in the fabric. Common examples are tissue
lamé, hologram lamé and pearl lamé. An issue with lamé is that it is subject
to seam or yarn slippage, making it less than ideal for garments with frequent
usage. Lamé is often used in evening and dress wear; and in theatrical and dance
costumes.

21
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Laminated - A term used to describe fabrics which have been joined together
through the use of a high-strength reinforcing scrim or base fabrics between
two plies of flexible thermoplastic film. It can a bonded utilizing either foam itself,
or some other material, such as adhesives, heat, or chemical bonding agents.

Lawn - A light, fine cloth made using carded or combed, linen or cotton yarns.
The fabric has a crease-resistant, crisp finish. Linen lawn is synonymous with
handkerchief linen. Cotton lawn is a similar type of fabric, which can be white,
solid colored, or printed.

Leno - A construction of woven fabrics in which the resulting fabric is very sheer,
yet durable. In this weave, two or more warp yarns are twisted around each
other as they are interlaced with the filling yarns; thus securing a firm hold on
the filling yarn and preventing them from slipping out of position. Also called the
gauze weave. Leno weave fabrics are frequently used for window treatments,
because their structure gives good durability with almost no yarn slippage, and
permits the passage of light and air.

Lining - Fabric made in the same shape as the outer fabric, a lining supports and
protects the outer fabric and hides seams as well. Linings are found not only in
apparel, but also in draperies and occasionally curtains and bedspreads. Items
that are lined tend to wear better and last longer than unlined items and the
appearance of a lined item is usually better than that of an unlined one.

Liquid Lamé - A slinky, slippery light weight metallic with the feel of silk. Liquid
Lamé has a satiny sheen, and a slight stretch.

Loden - Loden is a water-resistant greasy wool used in heavy coatings.

22
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

M
Madras - A lightweight plain weave cotton fabric with a striped, plaid, or checked
pattern. A true madras will bleed when washed. This type of fabric is usually
imported from India. End-uses are men’s and women’s shirts and dresses.

Marocain - A ribbed fabric with a wavy look, resembling Crêpe. It is made of silk,
wool and manufactured fibers. Used mainly for suits and dresses.

Matelassé - A medium to heavyweight luxury fabric made in a double cloth

construction to create a blistered or quilted surface. Common end-uses are
upholstery, draperies, and evening dresses.

Matka – a heavy weight silk made from very thick yarns. The yarns are obtained
from short ends of silk from Mulberry silkworms (Bombyx Mori) and spun by hand
without removing the gum (sericin). As such, there are slubs and irregularities
that give the fabric a unique character. It looks something like a tweed, but the
fibers are all the same color. Matka is good for suits and jackets.

Matte Jersey - Tricot knit with a dull surface made with fine crepe yarn.

Melton - A thick to medium thick tightly woven wool with heavily brushed nap
giving the fabric a smooth finish with no warp or weft yarns visible. Wool Melton
is used mainly for jackets, coats and blankets.

Mesh - A type of fabric characterized by its net-like open appearance, and

the spaces between the yarns. Mesh is available in a variety of constructions
including wovens, knits, laces, or crocheted fabrics.

Metallic - An inorganic fiber made from minerals and metals, blended and
extruded to form fibers. The fiber is formed from a flat ribbon of metal, coated

23
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

with a protective layer of plastic, which reduces tarnishing. Metal used in apparel
fabric is purely decorative.

Minky - Minky is an incredibly soft and plush “micro-fiber” fabric. Minky is a

modern “micro-fiber” fabric that is amazingly soft. It rivals cashmere in softness
and resembles real mink in touch. It is quick-drying, highly absorbent, and
actually quite strong.

Moiré/Watermarked - A corded fabric, usually made from silk or one of the

manufactured fibers, which has a distinctive water-marked wavy pattern on the
face of the fabric.

Moleskin - Moleskin is a heavy, strong (usually cotton) fabric woven with coarse,
carded yarns that give it a velvety nap. The feel of moleskin is smooth and solid,
reminiscent of suede. The reverse has a satiny look and feel. Generally, it will
contain 2-4% spandex. Moleskin is great for pants, jackets and heavy shirts.

Monk’s Cloth - A heavy weight cotton fabric utilizing the basket weave variation
of the plain weave. Used for draperies and slip covers, monk’s cloth is an example
of 4 x 4 basket weave. It has poor dimensional stability and tends to snag.

Moss Crepe - A vegetable fiber obtained from the inside of the woody stalk
of the flax plant. It is one of the oldest fabrics known. It is strong, and today’s
man-made fibers are often blended with it to improve its wrinkle resistance and
give the fabric other desirable qualities. Linen is woven in various weights for
different purposes and is occasionally used in knit blends.

Mouseline - The name for a broad category of fabrics, usually fairly sheer and
lightweight and made in a variety of fibers, including man-mades, silk, cotton,
and wool. Mousseline usually has a crisp hand. The word mousseline is often
used today for a fabric resembling de soie.

24
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Mudcloth - Also known as Bògòlanfini or bogolan, it is a handmade, cotton

textile that is traditionally dyed with.

N
Napped - A fuzzy, fur-like feel created when fiber ends extend from the basic
fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabric can be napped on either one or
both sides.

Netting - An open mesh fabric of rayon, nylon, cotton, or silk; made in a variety
of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights, matched to various
end-uses. The net is made by knotting the intersections of thread or cord to
form the mesh.

Noil – A silk fabric that is sportier in appearance and created by short fibers,
often from the innermost part of the cocoon. Has the look of hopsack but much
softer. Silk Noil (sometimes incorrectly called raw silk) has a nubby feel and a low
sheen. Noil somewhat resembles cotton in surface texture, and sews easily. The
nubby texture of noil comes from the use of very short fibers that are used to
weave the fabric. When these short fibers are spun into yarns, the resulting yarns
have occasional slubs and loose ends. Nubs vary between different weaves. Noil
which has not been completely de-gummed (had the natural sericin removed),
may easily attract dirt and odors.

O
Oil Cloth - Originally, textiles such as cotton were coated in oil to create resistance
to moisture. Now, resins from plastics are used instead of oil. Olefin is a very
versatile fiber with excellent flexibility. Used for waterproof garments, book

25
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

bags, belts, bibs, pencil cases, luggage, surgical supplies.

Organdy - A stiffened, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to

high yarn count. End-uses include blouses, dresses, and curtains/draperies.

Organza - A crisp, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to high
yarn count, made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester. The fabric is used primarily in
evening and wedding apparel for women.

Osnaburg - A tough medium to heavyweight coarsely woven plain weave fabric,

usually made of a cotton or cotton/poly blend. Lower grades of the unfinished
fabric are used for such industrial purposes as bags, sacks, pipe coverings.
Higher grades of finished osnaburg can be found in mattress ticking, slipcovers,
workwear, and apparel.

Ottoman - A tightly woven plain weave ribbed fabric with a hard slightly lustered
surface. The ribbed effect is created by weaving a finer silk or manufactured
warp yarn with a heavier filler yarn, usually made of cotton, wool, or waste yarn.
In the construction, the heavier filler yarn is completely covered by the warp
yarn, thus creating the ribbed effect. End uses for this fabric include coats, suits,
dresses, upholstery, and draperies.

Oxford - A fine, soft, lightweight woven cotton or blended with manufactured

fibers in a 2 x 1 basket weave variation of the plain weave construction. The
fabric is used primarily in shirtings.

P
Panné - A type of lustrous, lightweight velvet fabric, usually made of silk or a
manufactured fiber, in which the pile has been flattened in one direction. Panné

26
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

velvet has a longer or higher pile than regular velvet, but shorter than plush. It is
pressed flat and has a high luster made possible by a tremendous roller-press
treatment given the material in finishing. It is now often made as knit fabric.

Parachute - A compactly woven, lightweight fabric comparable with airplane

cloth. It is made of silk, nylon, rayon, cotton, or polyester.

Peachskin - Peachskin is a smooth finish applied to finely woven Micro Fiber

fabric. The soft, sueded finish results from sanding or chemical treatment of
the fabric. This finish allows suits and dresses to flow with movement and
drape beautifully. The feel of peachskin is soft, smooth and moderately wrinkle-
resistant. It is a medium weight fabric that has a fuzzy, suede like feel.

Peau de Soie - A medium to heavy weight smooth and silky fabric with a satiny,
lustrous finish. Looks like Charmeuse, but Peau de Soie has a moderately stiff
drape. Those who cannot pronounce Peau de Soie (French for ‘skin of silk’) call
this Duchess Satin. It can be made of silk or manufactured fibers, and used
mainly for bridal gowns and eveningwear.

Percale - A medium weight, plain weave, low to medium count (180 to 250
threads per square inch) cotton-like fabric. End-uses include sheets, blouses,
and dresses.

Performance - Fabrics made for a variety of end-use applications, which

provide functional qualities, such as moisture management, UV protection, anti-
microbial, thermo-regulation, and wind/water resistance.

Pile - A fabric in which certain yarns project from a foundation texture and form
a pile on the surface. Pile yarns may be cut or uncut in the fabric. Corduroy and
velveteen are examples of cut filling pile fabrics.

27
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Pincord - Fabric with a very narrow wale or rib. Used in describing piques,
corduroys or other ribbed fabrics. Also called baby cord.

Piqué - A medium-weight fabric, either knit or woven, with raised dobby designs
including cords, wales, waffles, or patterns. Woven versions have cords running
lengthwise, or in the warp direction. Knitted versions are double-knit fabric
constructions, created on multi-feed circular knitting machines.

Pleather - The term pleather (“plastic leather”) is a slang term for synthetic
leather made out of plastic. A portmanteau of plastic and leather, the term is
sometimes used derogatorily, implying use as a substitute for genuine animal
hide to cut costs. Besides cost, pleather may also be preferred because it is lighter
than leather, or as an alternative to real leather citing reasons of animal cruelty.
Pleather, being made of plastic, will not decompose as quickly. Not all pleathers
are the same. Polyurethane is washable, can be dry-cleaned and allows some
air to flow through the garment. PVC pleather in contrast does not “breathe” and
is difficult to clean. PVC cannot be dry-cleaned because the cleaning solvents
can make the PVC unbearably stiff.

Plissé - A lightweight, plain weave, fabric, made from cotton, rayon, or acetate,
and characterized by a puckered striped effect, usually in the warp direction. The
crinkled effect is created through the application of a caustic soda solution, which
shrinks the fabric in the areas of the fabric where it is applied. Plissé is similar
in appearance to seersucker. End-uses include dresses, shirtings, pajamas, and
bedspreads.

Plush – A compactly woven fabric with warp pile higher than that of velvet.
Plush (from French peluche) is a textile having a cut nap or pile the same as
fustian or velvet. Originally the pile of plush consisted of mohair or worsted yarn,
but now silk by itself or with a cotton backing is used for plush. Modern plush
is commonly manufactured from synthetic fibres such as polyester. Brushed

28
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

or sheared fabrics are also sometimes referred to as plush. One of the largest
uses of this fabric is in the production of toys, with small stuffed animals made
from plush fabric, such as teddy bears, known as plushies. The French term for
“teddy bear” is ours en peluche. Plush is also one of the main materials for the
construction of designer toys.

Point d’Esprit – Mainly cotton, sometimes silk, a leno, gauze, knotted, or mesh
woven fabric. Point d’Esprit was first made in France in 1834. as a dull surfaced
net with various sized holes. Has white or colored dots individually spaced or in
groups. Used for curtains, bassinets, evening gowns.

Pointelle – A Very feminine, delicate-looking, rib-knit fabric made with a pattern

of openings. Pointelle is a drop needle knit fabric. It is a textured fabric with holes
forming a design in the fabric.

Pongee - The most common form is a naturally colored lightweight, plain weave,
silk-like fabric with a slubbed effect. End-uses include blouses, dresses, etc.

Ponte di Roma - A fabric made in a double knit construction, usually produced in

one color rather than color patterns. This plain fabric has an elastic quality with
a slight horizontal line. The fabric looks the same on both sides.

Poplin - A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The construction
is characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling.
Poplin used to be associated with casual clothing, but as the “world of work” has
become more relaxed, this fabric has developed into a staple of men’s wardrobes,
being used frequently in casual trousers.

Pucker - The uneven surface caused by differential shrinkage in the two layers
of a bonded fabric during processing, dry cleaning, or washing.

29
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Q
Quilted - A fabric construction in which a layer of down or fiberfill is placed
between two layers of fabric, and then held in place by stitching or sealing in a
regular, consistent, all-over pattern on the goods.

R
Raschel - A warp knitted fabric in which the resulting knit fabric resembles hand
crocheted fabrics, lace fabrics, and nettings. Raschel warp knits contain inlaid
connecting yarns in addition to columns of knit stitches.

Reversible - A fabric that can be used on either side. Generally, the term reversible
is applied to two quite different fabrics joined together by such methods as
laminating or double cloth construction. Reversible fabrics frequently are used
for coats, less frequently for other garments.

Rib Knit - A basic stitch used in weft knitting in which the knitting machines
require two sets of needles operating at right angles to each other. Rib knits
have a very high degree of elasticity in the crosswise direction. A 1 x 1 rib has
one rib up and one down. A 2 x 1 rib has two ribs up and one down. This knitted
fabric is used for complete garments and for such specialized uses as sleeve
bands, neck bands, sweater waistbands, and special types of trims for use with
other knit or woven fabrics. Lightweight sweaters in rib knits provide a close,
body-hugging fit.

Ripstop - A lightweight, wind resistant, and water resistant plain weave fabric.
Large rib yarns stop tears without adding excess weight to active sportswear
apparel and outdoor equipment such as sleeping bags and tents.

30
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

S
Sailcloth - Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of cotton, linen,
polyester, jute, nylon, etc. that is used for sails and apparel (i.e. bottomweight
sportswear).

Sateen - A fabric made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple
length fibers. A variation of the satin weave, produced by floating fill yarns over
warp yarns. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster.

Satin - A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the
fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible
pattern of interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface
effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased through the use
of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a low amount of twist.
A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns.
Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin,
faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and antique satin.

Saxony - Originally a high grade coating fabric made from Saxony merino wool
raised in Germany.

Seersucker - A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control.

In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled
tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed
state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a
puckered stripe effect in the fabric. Seersucker is traditionally made into summer
sportswear such as shirts, trousers, and informal suits.

Sequinned – Fabric covered with sequins is available by the yard. Sequins are
a shiny, usually metallic, decoration or spangle. Sequins are sewn to clothing,

31
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

especially evening dresses because they shimmer and sparkle in the light.
Sequins usually have a single, central hole for fastening to the garment or fabric.
Sequins are also known as paillettes.

Serge - A very distinct twill (2 up/2 down) which shows on both sides of the
fabric. On the face, the distinct diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper
right – piece dyed. Has a smooth, hard finish that wears exceptionally well but
will shine with use. The shine cannot be removed permanently. It is a good cloth
in tailoring as it drapes and clings very well. Made in various weights. unfinished
worsted and wool are not quite as clear on the surface. Used mainly for coats,
suits and sportswear.

Shantung - A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, characterized by a ribbed

effect, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp or filling direction. End-
uses include dresses and suits.

Sharkskin - A hard-finished, low lustered, medium-weight fabric in a twill-weave

construction. It is most commonly found in men’s worsted suitings; however, it
can also be found in a plain-weave construction of acetate, triacetate, and rayon
for women’s sportswear.

Sheer – The opposite of opaque. Sheer fabrics are usually made in an open
weave to create fabrics with varying degrees of transparency. Batiste, organdy,
and voile are examples of sheer fabrics.

Sheeting – Sheeting is a plain woven cotton cloth made from carded yarns that
can be found in medium and heavy weights. Low thread count sheeting is called
muslin, while high thread count sheeting with combed yarns is known as percale.

Sherpa – A heavy fabric with clumped pile resembling the fleece of a sheep.
The name comes from the group of people who live near or on the Himalayan

32
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

mountains. Used for outerwear trim and lining.

Shetland – Wool from Shetland sheep in Scotland. These sheep have a coarse
outer coat and a very fine undercoat which gives added warmth. The best is the
undergrowth. It is not shorn but pulled out by hand in the spring. Other wools
sometimes called Shetland if they have a similar appearance. Shetland wools
have a very soft hand and a shaggy finish of protruding fibers. It is very lightweight
and warm. Much is made by hand and comes in distinctive soft coloring. Often
the natural colors ranging from off-white, various grays to almost black and
brown are used and not dyed. Real Shetland wools are expensive, high quality
products. – In the same family group as homespun, tweed and cheviot. Used in
coats, suits, and sportswear for both men and women. Fine Shetlands are made
into fine shawls, underwear crochet, work and hosiery.

Shimmer – A lightweight fabric made of two different colored yarns. The fabric
has an iridescent look and a crisp but not stiff hand. Shimmer is typically made of
a rayon/polyester blend. Shimmer can also be made with a crushed finish which
adds texture and brings out the shine in the fabric. Shimmer is most commonly
used for apparel but can also be used to create sophisticated window treatments
and pillows.

Slinky – A knit fabric. It drapes well, never wrinkles and washes beautifully. It’s
the perfect travel fabric with four-way stretch for ultimate comfort. Suitable for
almost any wardrobe item.

Slipper Satin - Slipper satin is a tightly woven satin fabric, usually lighter in
weight than duchesse satin, and used for many purposes including evening
shoes or slippers.

Sparkle Organza – An organza woven fabric that uses a yarn, usually nylon with
a high reflectance of light that gives the fabric a sparkled look.

33
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Stretch - Rubber or man-made plastic fibers (such as spandex and anidex) that
are naturally elastic or man-made fibers, highly twisted, heat-set, and untwisted
to leave a strong crimp. Polyester has a certain degree of natural stretch and
more can be given to the yarn in the processing or in the finishing of the fabric.
Occasionally, polyester woven fabrics are described as stretch fabrics. Usually,
stretch implies a degree of visible give in a fiber or fabric that stretches and then
returns quickly to its original shape. Stretch fabrics are sometirnes described as
elastic.

Suede Cloth – A woven or knitted fabric of cotton, man-made fibers, wool,

or blends, finished to resemble suede leather. It is used in sport coats, gloves,
linings, and cleaning cloths.

Sueded – Sueded fabrics are brushed, sanded or chemically treated for extra
softness. ‘Suede’ yarns are generally thick and plush.

Supplex® - Supplex® is a state-of-the-art nylon fabric. It was specially

engineered by DuPont to provide the soft, supple touch of cotton with the
strength, durability and performance advantages of nylon. It has high water
and wind resistant properties, high abrasion and is tear resistant. Supplex®
manages moisture and keeps its vibrant color, wash after wash. Clothes made
of Supplex® will never fuzz or pill.

Surah - A light weight, lustrous twill weave constructed fabric with a silk-like
hand. Surah is the fabric of ties, dresses, and furnishings. It is available in silk,
polyester, and rayon.

T
Taffeta - A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight ribbed

34
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction. For formal wear, taffeta is a

favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the
ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.

Tapestry - A heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate

design depicting a historical or current pictorial display. The weft-faced fabric
design is made by using colored filling yarns, only in areas where needed, that
are worked back and forth over spun warp yarns, which are visible on the back.
End-uses include wall hangings and upholstery.

Tartan - A pattern made of intersecting stripes. Each tartan pattern is associated

with a certain specific family called a clan. Plaid, a term used for tartan, is actually
the name of a shawl made of tartan fabric. The use of plaid has become so
general that tartan is almost always limited to authentic clan designs. Some of
the most common tartans follow, but there are many others.

Terry Cloth - A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by using two
sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very little tension; when the
filling yarns are packed into place, these loose yarns are pushed backward along
with the filling yarns, and loops are formed. Typical uses include towels, robes,
and apparel.

Terry Velour - A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut
pile on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand. Typical
uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Thermal – An adjective used to describe fabrics which are warmer for their
weight than other fabrics. Thermal is usually limited to those fabrics woven in a
honeycomb pattern leaving small spaces in which air can be trapped. Thermal
fabrics are popular for underwear and blankets.

35
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Thinsulate™ - Thinsulate™ is a trademark of the 3M Corporation, for a type of

synthetic fiber thermal insulation used in clothing. Thinsulate™ fibers are about
15 micrometres in diameter, which is thinner than the polyester fibers normally
used in insulation for clothing such as gloves or winter jackets. The manufacturer
claims that, for a given thickness of material, Thinsulate™ provides 1 to 1.5
times the insulation of duck down, while being much less water-absorbent and
much more resistant to crushing. Thinsulate™ insulation works by trapping air
molecules between you and the outside. The more air a material traps in a given
space, the greater its insulating value. Because the microfibers in Thinsulate™
insulation are far finer than other fibers, they trap more air in less space, which
naturally makes it a better insulator. Thinsulate™ is breathable, moisture
resistant and machine washable.

Ticking - A broad term for extremely strong woven fabrics which are used as
a covering for pillows, mattresses, and box springs, home-furnishings, and for
work clothes and sports clothes. Ticking is a heavy, tightly woven carded cotton
fabric usually in a pattern of alternately woven stripes in the warp, Jacquard or
dobby designs, or printed patterns. lt is usually twill but may be sateen weave.
When ticking is used in clothing, striped ticking with narrow woven stripes is
usually most popular. Red and white, black and white, and navy and white are
the most popular ticking color combinations.

Tie-Dye – A form of resist dyeing. Items to be dyed are tied or knotted so that
the folds of the fabric form barriers to the dye to create patterns or designs on
the fabric.

Tissue Faille – Made from 100% micro fiber polyester, Tissue Faille (pronounced
“file”) is a lightweight fabric with a light faille weave, silky feel and a slight sheen.
It has an excellent draping quality. Though lightweight, it is an extremely strong
fabric.

36
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Tissue Lamé - See Lamé

Tricot - A warp knit fabric in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent
parallel yarns. The warp beam holds thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel
arrangement, and these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously.
Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length are on the beam.
Tricot knits are frequently used in women’s lingerie items such as slips, bras,
panties, and nightgowns.

Tricotine – Tricotine weave has a double twill rib on the face of the cloth. Has a
very clear finish. It drapes well, and tailors easily. Tricotine is medium in weight
and usually made of wool and wool/rayon blends. Tricotine has exceptional
wearing qualities. Very much like cavalry twill, but finer. In the same family as
whipcords, coverts, and gabardines. Used mainly for Men’s and women’s suits
and coats. It is also used for ski slacks in a stretch fabric

Trigger® - A durable heavy poplin made of blend of polyester and cotton. It is

also considered a utility cloth and used for table cloths, chair covers, uniforms,
and flags/banners.

Tulle - A lightweight, extremely fine, machine-made netting, usually with a

hexagon shaped mesh effect. End-uses include dance costumes and veils.

Tussah - Silk fabric woven from silk made by wild, uncultivated silkworms.
Tussah is naturally tan in color, cannot be bleached, and has a rougher texture
than cultivated silk. Wild silkworms eat leaves other than mulberry leaves which
cultivated silkworms eat exclusively. The difference in diet accounts for the
different fiber and fabric characteristics. Tussah is also used to describe fabrics
designed to imitate this kind of silk.

Tweed - A medium to heavy weight, fluffy, woolen, twill weave fabric containing

37
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

colored slubbed yarns. Common end-uses include coats and suits.

Twill - A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp
and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect on
the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal
effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric.

U
Union Cloth - A traditional name for fabric made from two or more different
fibers, such as a fabric woven with a wool worsted warp and a cotton filling. The
term “union cloth” was used primarily when this fabric was used for underwear,
perhaps because a union suit was another name for shoulder-to-ankle, one-
piece underwear.

Ultrasuede® – Ultrasuede® is world’s first ultra-microfiber. Ultrasuede® feels

like natural suede, but it is resistant to stains and discoloration; it can be machine-
washed; and because it is a non-woven fabric, it cannot pull or fray. Ultrasuede®
also ages better than real suede, is stain resistant and is animal friendly. The
fabric is multifunctional: it is used in fashion, interior decorating, automotive and
other vehicle upholstery, and industrial applications, such as protective fabric for
electronic equipment.

V
Velour - A medium weight, closely woven fabric with a thick pile. It can be made
using either a plain weave or a satin weave construction. It resembles velvet, but
has a lower cut pile. End uses include apparel, upholstery, and drapes.

38
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Velvet - A medium weight cut-pile constructed fabric in which the cut pile stands
up very straight. It is woven using two sets of warp yarns; the extra set creates
the pile. It is woven on a special loom that weaves two piece of velvet at the
same time. The two pieces are then cut apart and the two lengths of fabric are
wound on separate take-up rolls. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, is commonly made
with a filament fiber for high luster and smooth hand. Velvet is a type of tufted
fabric in which the cut threads are very evenly distributed, with a short dense
pile, giving it its distinct feel. Velvet can be made from any fiber.

Velveteen - A cotton cut-pile weave fabric, utilizing extra fill yarn construction,
with either a twill or a plain weave back. The fabric is woven with two sets of
filling yarns; the extra set creates the pile.

Voile - A crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton-like fabric, made with high twist
yarns in a high yarn count construction. Similar in appearance to organdy and
organza. Used in blouses dresses and curtains.

W
Waffle – A fabric with a characteristic honeycomb weave. When made in cotton
it is called waffle pique. It is used for coatings, draperies, dresses, and toweling.

Washed – Refers to fabrics that have been laundered before shipping. This may
be done to reduce shrinkage, soften the hand, wash down the color or to give
the fabric a used, laundered look.

Whipcord - A woven fabric with a very steep and compacted twill appearance on
the face of the goods. End-uses for the fabric include dress woolens, worsteds,
or wool blends, and many types of uniforms.

39
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Worsted - A tightly woven fabric made by using only long staple, combed wool
or wool-blend yarns. The fabric has a hard, smooth surface. Gabardine is an
example of a worsted fabric. A common end use is men’s tailored suits.

Worsterlon® - Worsterlon is a polyester flannel fabric that is washable and

wrinkle free. It has the look and feel of wool without the maintenance and
care. It is ideal for anyone allergic to wool. Proven in climates around the world,
this fabric is worn by outdoor enthusiasts and travelers who demand durable
clothing.

40