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图书在版编目（CIP）数据
中国服饰／华梅著 .—北京：五洲传播出版社，2004.10

ISBN 7-5085-0540-9

I. 中 ... II. 华 ... III. 服饰—文化—中国 IV.TS941.12

中国版本图书馆 CIP 数据核字（2004）第 066197 号

中国服饰

撰 文 华 梅
责任编辑 张 宏
特约编辑 王若行
整体设计 海 洋
出版发行 五洲传播出版社（北京北三环中路 31 号 邮编：100088）

设计制作 北京锦绣东方图文设计有限公司
承 印 者 北京华联印刷有限公司
开 本 720×965 毫米 1/16
字 数 100 千字
印 张 10
版 次 2004 年 10 月第 1 版
印 次 2004 年 10 月第 1 次印刷
书 号 ISBN 7-5085-0540-9/TS·05
定 价 36.00 元

All photographs illustrated are copyright of the author except when otherwise acknowledged.
Reproduction without permission is prohibited.
 Content

◎ Preface/1

◎ Shenyi and Broad Sleeves/9

◎ Royal Ceremonial Wear/15

◎ Introduction of Ethnic Minority Styles/19

◎ The Elegant Wei and Jin Period/23

◎ The Thousand Faces of the Tang Costume/29

◎ Silk, the Silk Road and the Art of Embroidery/39

◎ Beizi: a Song Style Garment/51

◎ Ming Garments as Seen in Classical Portraits/55

◎ The Official Uniform/59

◎ Ancient Armor Suits/67

◎ Qi Costumes – a Combination of Manchu and Han Nationality’s Clothes/77

◎ Civilized New Clothes and Improved Cheong-sam/87

◎ Farmer & Worker Uniforms and Service-dresses/95

◎ Professional Image and Professional Dresses/105

◎ Adornments and Fairy Tales/109

◎ Hats with Meanings/119

◎ Shawls and the Back Wrapping Cloth/125

◎ A Silhouette of Tibetan Costumes/131

◎ Countless Ornamental Objects/139

◎ Keeping Pace with the World Fashion/151

 Preface

1
Preface

F rom the day garments became part of people’s lives,

they have been given different significance of social
status, lifestyle, aesthetics and cultural concepts. Garments
have always been the truest and most straightforward
reflection of the social and historical scenes of any given
time. In this sense, the history of garments is at the same
time a vivid history on the development of civilization.
In the Chinese way of describing the necessities of
life, clothing ranks at the top of “garments, food, shelter
and means of travel.” In this country with a long history
of garments and ornaments, there is a wealth of
archeological findings showing the development of
garments, as well as their portrayals in ancient mythology,
history books, poems and songs, novels and drama.
The development of the Chinese garments can be
traced back to the late Paleolithic age. Archeological
findings have shown that approximately 20,000 years ago,

The Sui Dynasty lady dress, mostly were short jackets with short sleeves and long skirts.
They tied the skirts over chest, which made them look very elegant. This way of dressing
can be still seen in Korean lady dress. (Painted by Gao Chunming, selected from Lady
Garments and Adornments of Chinese Past Dynasties written by Zhou Xun and Gao
Chunming)
 Chinese Clothing

the primitives who lived in the now Zhoukoudian

2 area of Beijing were already wearing personal
ornaments, in the form of tiny white stone beads,
olive-colored pebbles, animal teeth, clam shells,
fish bones and bone tubes, all meticulously
perforated. Archeologists have a�ributed these
to be body ornaments. Aesthetics might not have
been the only concern when people wore
ornaments at that time – ornaments were used
as a means of protection against evil. The
unearthed bone needles were still intact with oval
shaped needle hole, a sign that people at that
time were no longer satisfied with utilizing
animal and plant materials. They already learned
the technology of sewing together animal skin.
Over 1,000 archeological sites of the Neolithic
age (6,000 B.C.-2,000 B.C.) have been found in
China, geographically covering almost the entire
country. The major means of production have A relic of 5600 years history, the colored po�ery
bo�le with a “head” shape bo�le neck excavated
transformed from the primitive hunting and
in Dadiwan, Gansu Province in 1973. The po�ery
fishing to the more stable form of agriculture, bo�le is about 31.8 centimeters high, made of fine
while division of labor first appeared in weaving red china clay. The facial features of the figure are
clear with hair bang and a high nose. The bo�le is
and po�ery making. Ancient painted po�ery pots painted with 3 rows of black color pa�ern composed
from 5,000 years ago were found in Qinghai of camber line triangle pa�ern and willow leaf
pa�ern. (Photo by Li Zhanqiang)
Province of western China, decorated with
dancers imitating the hunting scene. Some dancers
wear decorative braids on their heads, while
others have ornamental tails on the waist. Some
wear full skirts that are rarely seen in traditional
Chinese a�ire, but more similar to the whalebone
skirt of the western world. In the neighboring
province of Gansu, similar vessels were excavated,
with images of people wearing what the later
researchers called the “Guankoushan,” a typical
style found in the early human garments: a piece
of textile with a slit or hole in the middle from The picture shows the colored po�ery basin excavated in
Tongde County, Qinghai Province in 1975. The pa�ern
is people wearing “distended” skirts dancing hands in
hands. This kind of skirt is seldom seen in traditional
Chinese garments.(Photo by Li Zhanqiang)
 Preface

3
which the head comes through. A rope is tied at the waist,
giving the garment a dress-like appearance. Another vessel
portrays an image of an a�ractive young girl, with short
bangs on the forehead and long hair in the back. Against
the delicate facial features and below the neck a continuous
pattern is found with three rows of slanting lines and
triangles. It may well have been a lively young girl in a
beautiful dress with intricate pa�erns on the mind of the
po�ery maker. In addition to the clay vessels, images of
primitive Chinese garments were found in rock paintings
of the early people wearing ear ornaments. In the Daxi
Neolithic site of Wushan, Sichuan, historical artifacts were
found including ear ornaments made of jade, ivory and
turquoise in round, oblong, trapezoid and even semi-circle
shapes.
Along with the establishment of the different social
strata, rituals distinguishing the respectable from the
humble came into being, leading eventually to the formation
of rules and regulations on daily a�ire. The Chinese rules
on garments and ornaments started taking shape in the Zhou
Dynasty (1,046 B.C.-256 B.C.), regulating the royalty down
to the commoners, and these were recorded in the national
decrees and regulations. As early as in the Zhou Dynasty,
garments were already classified into sacrificial a�ire, court
a�ire, army uniform, mourning a�ire and wedding a�ire.
This tradition was once broken during the Spring and
Autumn Period (770 B.C.-476 B.C.) and the Warring States
The neck adornments, butterfly Period (475 B.C.-221 B.C.), in which numerous war lords
shape jade plate and jade excavated fought for power and a hundred schools of thoughts
in a Neolithic site.(Photo by Li
Zhanqiang) contended. As a result, rigid rules on garments and
ornaments were replaced by diversity of style, and the
aristocratic class went a�er extravagance.
The rulers of the Han Dynasty (206 B.C.-220 A.D.)
used the Zhou Li – book on Zhou Dynasty Rituals as the
 Chinese Clothing

blueprint and promulgated categorical rules on

4 garments and ornaments. Dress colors were specified
into spring green, summer red, autumn yellow and
winter black to be in harmony with the seasons and the
solar calendar, all in a style of sober simplicity. Women’s
upper and lower garments became the model for the
Han ethnicity of later generations.
The Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynsties
(220-589) was a period of ethnic amalgamation with,
despite the frequent change in power and incessant wars,
ideological diversity, cultural prosperity and significant
scientific development. In this period, there was not only
the Wei and Jin aristocratic style that the intelligentsia
took delight in talking about, but also the shocks and
transformations on the traditional Han culture brought
about by the northern nomadic tribes when they migrated
into the central plains. These ethnic minority people
se�led down with the Han people. As a result, the way
they dressed influenced the Han style, while at the same
time it was influenced by the Han style.
When China was reunited in the Sui Dynasty (581-
618), the Han dress code was pursued again. In the Tang
Dynasty (618-907) that followed, the strong national
power and an open social order led to a flourishing of
garment and ornament style that is both luxuriant and
The picture shows a Tang Dynasty lady refreshing, typically with women wearing low cut short
with “double-drooping-bun” and wide waist
shirtdress or narrow-sleeved men’s a�ire. By Song Dynasty
cloth-wrapper. In 8th century, Chinese Tang
dresses were spread into Japan and then (960-1279), the Han women developed the habit of chest-
exerted great influence on Japanese kimono. binding, giving popularity to the popular overcoat beizi,
The kimono styles at that time under the
names, such as “Tang grass”, “Tang flower” whose elegant and simplistic style was favored by women
and “Tang brocade” continue to be used even of all ages and all social strata. Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368)
today. (Part of the Tang painting Tuning
was established by the Mongols when they unified China.
Qin and Drinking Tea, selected from Lady
Garments and Adornments of Chinese Past As Mongols at that time wore maoli or triangular hat, and
Dynasties written by Zhou Xun and Gao men commonly wore earrings, the official dress code
Chunming)
became a mixture of the inherited Han system with the
Mongol elements. When power again changed hands to
 Preface

the Han people, the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) rulers promulgated decrees prohibiting
5
use of the previous dynasty’s Mongol a�ire, language and surnames, returning to
the dress style of the Tang Dynasty. The official uniform of the Ming Dynasty was
intent on seeking a sense of dignity and splendor, as shown in the complex forms,
styles and dressing rituals of the emperor down to officials of all levels.
More than 200 years of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) was a period with the most
significant changes in garment style. The Manchu dress style which the rulers tried to
force on the Han people was met with strong resistance, but a later compromise by the

At the end of 19th century, sewing machines imported

from western countries had already been applied in
traditional garments processing industry. (As Beautiful
as Evening Primrose painted by Wu Youru)
 Chinese Clothing

6 (left page, left top) The traditional

image of a peasant wearing a
front closure Chinese jacket.
(Photographed in 1950, provided
by Xinhua News Agency photo
department)
(left page, right top) The students
of Beijing University wearing
Scotland checked skirts in 1950s.
(Photographed in 1954, provided
by Xinhua News Agency photo
department)
(left page, bottom) A foreign
model wearing a red Chinese
cheong-sam in Chinese
Garments International Fair.
(Photo by Wu Hong, provided by
Imaginechina)
(right page, left top) Fashionable
young people on the street.
(Photo by Chen Shu, provided by
Imaginechina)
(right page, right top) With more
and more international famous
clothing brands opening their
stores in all parts of China, the
Euro-American fashion trends
influence more directly the
dressing style of Chinese people.
(Provided by Imaginechina)
(right page, bottom) Women
of “Long Horn Miao” group in
Guizhou Province combed their
huge coiled hair. (Photo by Li
Guixuan, provided by image
library of Hong Kong Traveling
in China)
Preface

7
 Chinese Clothing

government led to a silent fusion of the two dress styles. The mandarin long gown
8 (changpao) and jacket (magua) style has become the quintessential Qing style whenever
the topic of Qing dress is brought up.
A�er 1840, China entered the contemporary era. Seaport cities, especially metropolis
like Shanghai, led the change towards western style under the influence of the European
and American fashion trends. Industrialization in the textile weaving and dyeing in
the west brought about the import of low cost materials, gradually replacing domestic
materials made in the traditional way. Intricately made and trendy ready-to-wear
garments in western style also found their way into the Chinese market, gaining an
upper hand over the time-consuming traditional techniques of hand rolling, bordering,
inlay and embroidery with its large scale machine operated dress-making.
Looking in retrospect at Chinese garments of the 20th century, we see an array of styles
of qipao, Cheongsam, the Sun Yat-sen’s uniform, student uniform, western suits, hat, silk
stockings, high heels, workers’ uniform, Lenin jacket, the Russian dress, army style, jacket,
bell-bo�oms, miniskirts, bikinis, professional a�ire, punk style and T-shirt, all witnessing
the days gone by… The qipao dress, now regarded as the typical Chinese dress style, only
became popular in the 1920s. Originating in the Manchu women’s dress, incorporating
techniques of the Han ladies’ garments and absorbing styles of the 20th century western
dresses, it has now evolved into a major fashion element to be reckoned with in the
international fashion industry.
China, as a country made up of 56 ethnic groups that continually influenced each
other, has undergone continuous transformation in dress style and customs. The
distinction not only existed among dynasties, but also quite pronounced even in
different periods within the same dynasty. The overall characteristics of the Chinese
garments can be summarized as bright colors, refined artisanship, and ornate details.
Diversity in style can be seen among different ethnic groups, living environments,
local customs, lifestyles and aesthetic tastes. Chinese folk garments are deeply rooted
in the daily life and folk activities of the common people, full of rustic flavor and
exuberant with vitality. Many of the folk dresses are still popular today, for example
the red velvet flower hair piece, the embroidered keepsakes between lovers, coil hats
and raincoats made of natural fiber, not to mention the handmade tiger hats, tiger
shoes, pig shoes, cat shoes and the child bu�ock shields.
The progress of modernization is effacing the ethnic characters of the urban dress
style. However in the vast rural areas, especially in areas with a high concentration of
ethnic minority people, a wide array of beautiful garments and ornaments are still part
of the local lifestyle, offering a unique folk scene together with the local landscape.
 Preface

9
Shenyi and Broad Sleeves

T he ancient Chinese a�ached great importance to

the upper and lower garments on important
ceremonial occasions, believing in its symbolism of the
greater order of heaven and earth. At the mean time, one
piece style co-existed starting from the shenyi of the
Warring States Period, and developed into the Han
Dynasty robe, the large sleeved changshan of the Wei and
Jin Period, down to the “qi pao” of the contemporary
times, all in the form of a long robe in one piece.
Therefore, Chinese garments took the above-mentioned
two basic forms.
Shenyi, or deep garment, literally means wrapping
the body deep within the clothes. This style is deeply
rooted in the traditional mainstream Chinese ethics and
morals that forbid the close contact of the male and the
female. At that time, even husband and wife were not
allowed to share the same bathroom, the same suitcase,

The picture shows the lady dress of the Han Dynasty with overlapping garment
pieces and triple collars. The dress body was embroidered with cloud pa�ern and
the sleeves and collar were decorated with brocade edgings that made the wearer
look very tall and straight. (Painted by Gao Chunming, selected from Lady
Garments and Adornments of Chinese Past Dynasties written by Zhou Xun and
Gao Chunming)
 Chinese Clothing

or even the same clothing

(Right)The lacquer wood tomb
10 figures excavated in Xinyang in
lines. A married woman
Henan Province. The figures wore returning to her mother ’s
long dresses with curved garment home was not permi�ed to
pieces, decorative plates and angel
sleeves. This type of sleeve was eat at the same table with
often used afterwards to make her brothers. When going
the movement of elbow and wrist
flexible. Jackets and skirts were out, a woman had to keep
their everyday clothes with the skirt herself fully covered. These
pieces overlapping in the behind and
decorative jade plates in front of rules and rituals were
the waist. (Photo by Li Zhanqiang) recorded in great detail in the
(bottom) Garment pictures painted
Confucian Book of Rites.
by Gao Chunming according to
lacquer wooden figurines unearthed The shenyi is made up of
in Luoyang, Henan Province. the upper and lower garment,
tailored and made in a unique way. There is a special
chapter in the Book of Rites detailing the make of the
shenyi. It said that in the Warring States Period, the
style of the shenyi must conform to the rites and rituals,
its style fit for the rules with the proper square and
round shapes and the perfect balance. It has to be long
enough not to expose the skin, but short enough not
to drag on the floor. The forepart is elongated into a
large triangle, with the part above the waist in straight
cut and the part below the waist bias cut, for ease of
movement. The underarm section is made for flexible
movement of the elbow, therefore the generous length
of sleeves reaches the elbow when folded from the
fingertips. Moderately formal, the shenyi is fit for both
men of letters and warriors. It ranks second in
ceremonial wear, functional, not wasteful and simple
in style. Shenyi of this period can be seen in silk
paintings unearthed from ancient tombs, as well as on
clay and wooden figurines found in the same period,
with clear indications of the style, and often even the
patterns.
 Shenyi and Broad Sleeves

The copy drawing of colored

embroidering pattern of dragon, 11
phoenix and tiger. (Selected from
Research on Ancient Chinese Clothes
and Adornments written by Shen
Congwen)

A printed Han Dynasty brocade robe.

(Painted by Gao Chunming according
to the material object excavated in
Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha,
selected from Lady Garments
and Adornments of Chinese Past
Dynasties written by Zhou Xun and
Gao Chunming)

Material used for making shenyi

is mostly linen, except black silk is
employed in garments for sacrificial
ceremonies. Sometimes a colorful
decorative band is added to the edges, or
even embellished with embroidered or painted pa�erns.
When shenyi is put on, the elongated triangular hem is rolled to the
right and then tied right below the waist with a silk ribbon. This
ribbon was called dadai or shendai, on which a decorative piece is
a�ached. Later on leather belt appeared in the garment of the
central regions as an influence of nomadic tribes. A belt buckle is
normally a�ached to the leather belt for fastening. Belt buckles
are o�en intricately made, becoming an emerging cra� at the
Warring States Period. Large belt buckles can be as long as 30
centimeters, whereas the short ones are about 3 centimeters in
length. Materials can be stone, bone, wood, gold, jade, copper
or iron, with the extravagant ones decorated with gold and
silver, carved in pa�erns or embellished with jade or glass
beads.
By Han Dynasty, shenyi evolved into what is called the
Another Random Scribd Document
with Unrelated Content
structure is the just object of our admiration. Its head, adorned with
feathers, is a fine microscopic object; but the proboscis may be
deemed one of the most curious instruments in the insect creation.
This formidable apparatus has been particularly described in page
187.
The exuviæ or cast-off skins of insects, being exceedingly
transparent, are well adapted for observation, as they exhibit the
external appearance of the little animal; among these, may be
reckoned those of spiders and cimices, but particularly the forficula
auricularia or earwig, which is an elegant exuvia; a magnified view
of the beautiful wing of this insect is exhibited in Plate XIV. and
described in page 205. The stings of insects vary not only in their
form, but also in their apparatus; most of them require dissection; as
the stings, for they have generally two, are inclosed in a hard sheath
or case, to which is added a pair of feelers. The stings of bees,
wasps, &c. are barbed, while those of the chrysis are serrated, or
notched like a saw. The head of insects is furnished with an
instrument or proboscis various as the insects themselves, but all
meriting attention, as being admirably adapted to their different uses
and purposes. Among the most remarkable are those of the bed
bug, flea, gnat, empis, conops, &c. to which may be added the
singular one of the tabanus, described in page 188, and figured in
Plate XVI. A description of the apparatus of the bee has also been
given in page 181, and of that of the butterfly in page 186.
The antennæ of moths, butterflies, and most other insects, display
as great beauty in their formation as they are endless in their
variety; the distinguishing characters of many of them have been
described in pages 190-193, and that of the lepas anatifera in
particular in page 345, and exhibited in Plate XIII.
The eyes of insects are singularly constructed, but this structure is
not discoverable without the assistance of the microscope; the eyes
of the libellula are hexagonal, see Plate XVI. Fig. 3, and their
description in page 195; those of the lobster are square, as exhibited
in Fig. 5 of the same plate, and described in page 197.
The hair of animals, as the mouse, goat, large bee, and many
species of caterpillars, particularly the tufts on the head and tail of
the larva of the phalæna antiqua, offer many beauties to the curious
observer. The bristles of a hog, cut transversely, appear tubular, and
the root of hair is evidently bulbous.
The muscular fibres, and every anatomical preparation that can be
brought under the microscope, are pleasing objects; the reader will
meet with many curious and interesting observations on the hairs,
the muscles, nerves, and other parts of the human body, in
Fontana’s Treatise on the Venom of Vipers.
The legs of all insects appear very much diversified, and their
mechanism truly astonishing, according with their different
occupations, as particularized in pages 210-212.
Scales of fish, as soles, roach, dace, salmon, eels, &c. as also the
scales of snakes, lizards, &c. &c. Specimens of scales are given in
Plates X. and XIX. The scales form a light, but at the same time a
solid and smooth covering to the fish; they hinder the fluid from
penetrating the body, for which purpose they are laid in a kind of
natural oil; they serve also as a protection, and break the force of
any accidental blow, which may be the reason why river-fish have
larger and stronger scales than sea-fish, being more liable to
accidents.
The purple tide of life, nay the very globules of the blood, may be
seen distinctly rolling through veins and arteries smaller than the
finest hair.[151]
[151] The manner of viewing the particles of the blood has been described in p.
149, together with some remarks on their form, by our author. It was
not my intention to have renewed the subject; but a chirurgical treatise
having been lately published by Everard Home, Esq. F. R. S. in which it
appears that he has paid particular attention towards investigating
these minute particles, and ascertaining their true form, I shall here
subjoin an abstract.
“As the result of microscopical experiments has been found exceedingly
fallacious, a prejudice has very naturally arisen against all experiments
of this kind upon the secretions of the human body, from a supposition
that they are not to be depended upon. But it is right that we should
discriminate, and not condemn the use of the microscope altogether,
because from ignorance of its principles it has been misapplied; since
 these very deceptions have been the means of our acquiring a more
accurate knowledge of the use and application of that instrument.
“The errors in the use of the microscope have arisen from increasing the
magnifying powers of the glasses too much, and not taking in all the
circumstances relating to the refraction of the rays of light, making no
allowance for the aberration. An attention to the aberration alone will
explain the different appearances under which the red globules of the
blood have been represented. Some have found them perfect spheres,
which will always be the case when the glasses are perfectly adjusted,
and the object placed at the true focal distance. Others have found
them annular, from the object being at the focal distance of the rays
transmitted near the circumference of the magnifying glass, which are
refracted in a greater degree, and consequently shorter than the central
rays. Others, again, have viewed them as flattened bodies of a circular
figure, bright in the center, and becoming darker towards the edges;
which appearance arises from the object being at the focal distance of
the central rays of the magnifying glass, which will be less refracted
than those near the circumference. Although such are the errors which
arise, when microscopical researches are pushed beyond certain
bounds; yet, that the red part of the blood is made up of globules, is a
discovery for which we are indebted to the microscope, and which
seems to be as well ascertained as any discovery in anatomy or
physiology. The appearances of pus are equally distinct, when examined
on the field of a microscope, as the globules of the blood; they are
visible with a small degree of magnifying power, and are the same to
the eyes of different persons.” Edit.
Feathers, and parts of feathers of birds, are not to be passed by
or unnoticed; but it is impossible to point out any of these in
preference to others, as each has its peculiar beauties; the plumulæ
of these have generally in the microscope the appearance of large
feathers; the pith contained in the quill, if cut transversely and
examined, exhibits an admirable reticular texture. Many other parts
of birds will afford a great variety of curious objects, particularly the
egg: Mr. Martin says, that the internal spongy substance of bones
may be better observed in those of birds, than of any other animal;
even the feathers or scales of a moth’s wing amply repay the
observer; these also vary in their texture and figure; but the largest
and most commonly applied, are from the body of the sphinx
stellatarum, or humming-bird moth; a specimen is given in Plate
XVI. Fig. E F H I.
Transverse sections of all kinds of wood, especially those of a
pithy or soft nature, form some of the most delightful objects for the
microscope; among these, the section of fern root will be found
strikingly curious, from the singular disposition of the air and sap
vessels; their beauty will be seen by the figures in Plates XXVIII.
XXIX. and XXX.
Flowers, whose brilliancy and variety constitute one of the
principal beauties of nature, each being distinguished from the rest
by some peculiar beauty or shining character.
The flowers of most grasses, with all the varieties of mosses; the
farina of flowers; mouldiness, which evidently appears to vegetate;
all the kinds of sponge; sea-weeds; particularly the confervæ, which
are jointed like a cane. The extensive family of corallines present an
elegant appearance; the most beautiful are the sea hair, sea fir,
sickle, fox tail, &c. described by Ellis.
Dissected leaves, which shew the fibres and nerves; the human
intestine injected with wax is a fine object; as are many other
anatomical preparations. The seed of the silver-rind birch appears
like an insect; seed of the quaking grass is also much admired, as is
the leaf which covers the seed of sorrel. Among artificial
productions, the edge of a razor, and point of a fine needle, as also
fine cambrick, evidently discover the inferiority of the workman;
particles from the collision of flint and steel; wire melted by the
electric explosion, and other articles innumerable.
Besides these, there is an immense variety of objects which can
only be satisfactorily examined alive, such as polypes, minute
aquatic insects; animalcula of various infusions, as eels in paste,
vinegar, &c. The eyes and teeth of snails; the circulation of the blood
in the tails of fishes, &c.[152]
[152] Those who possess leisure, particularly such who reside in the country,
may easily procure the major part of the preceding objects, and also
add an extensive variety to them; but those who have not the
opportunity of collecting for themselves, may be supplied with objects in
considerable variety by application to Messrs. Jones. Edit.
 CHAP. XI.
AN ARRANGEMENT AND DESCRIPTION OF MINUTE
AND RARE SHELLS.—A DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF A
VARIETY OF VEGETABLE SEEDS, AS THEY APPEAR
WHEN VIEWED BY THE MICROSCOPE. BY THE
EDITOR.

Notwithstanding the abundance of objects which have from time to

time afforded delight to the attentive and diligent microscopic
observer, little doubt can be entertained but that amidst the
immense variety of minute shells, as well as the seeds of vegetables,
numbers remain unexplored, though highly meriting notice.
With the hope of exciting the attention of the curious toward these
subjects, and affording hints to those who may happily possess
inclination, together with leisure and opportunity to pursue the
inquiry, I shall enumerate to the reader a few specimens of each of
these admirable productions of nature; towards the elucidating of
which, very little, comparatively, has as yet been done.
As far as my knowledge extends, the first author who has treated
on the subject of minute and rare shells, is Plancus, who published a
treatise in quarto, at Venice, in the year 1739, with the title “De
Conchis Ariminensibus minus notis;” a third and improved edition of
which appeared in 1760. It is a very curious and learned work,
containing a natural history of testaceous animals of Rimini, an
Italian town situated on the Adriatic shore; and more particularly of
minute nautili.
In the year 1784, Mr. Walker of Faversham published in quarto a
collection of minute shells, which was the joint production of himself
and William Boys, Esq. F. S. A. of Sandwich, in Kent, assisted by the
late Edward Jacob, Esq. F. S. A. It contains an arrangement and
concise description of ninety shells, accompanied with neatly
engraved figures of the whole series; the greater part of them as
well in their magnified state, as that in which they appear to the
naked eye. Specimens of those which are esteemed most curious
and rare, I have selected from this work: a reference to the original
will afford the reader more complete satisfaction, and possibly
animate him to further pursuits.
This publication appeared in so favourable a light to that eminent
patron of science, Sir Joseph Banks, that I should accuse myself of
unjustifiable remissness, were I to neglect this opportunity of
introducing an extract from the copy of a letter addressed by him to
the late Mr. Jacob, which is now in my possession.
“We” (the Royal Society) “are all much obliged to you for the pains
you have taken in bringing this work to light. Natural history is, I am
convinced, more benefited by a thin volume of real new facts, which
is the case in yours, than by a folio of comments generally written by
those who mean to receive praise, more founded on the elegance
with which they express the ideas they conceive, than on any
prospect of utility to be derived from the ideas themselves. From
such naturalists, De Buffon, &c. good Lord deliver our honest
science.”
That truly amiable, and no less intelligent lady, the late Duchess
Dowager of Portland, likewise expressed her approbation of the work
in a letter to Mr. Boys.
By this publication, a number of shells, heretofore unknown, are
added to the British conchology, sufficient to shew that the path is
now laid open and made easy of access to inquisitive naturalists in
different parts of the kingdom for still greater discoveries. Indeed, it
is rather extraordinary, that the authors of this country, who have so
advantageously applied the microscope to a variety of objects in the
animal kingdom, should have neglected to examine the shores of
our own seas, crowded as they are with objects equally worthy of
their investigation. Baker’s observation in his “Employment for the
Microscope,” p. 244, is entitled to more attention than has been paid
to it. “Shell-fish,” says he, “are objects that have as yet been very
slightly examined by the microscope, and therefore the serious
inquirer into nature’s secret operations may here be certain of
discovering beauties, which at present he can have no conception
of.” But thus it is, nature opens her rich and inexhaustible treasures
by slow degrees to the inquisitive mind of man. In fact, different
observers have generally different pursuits, otherwise these objects
would scarcely have escaped the attention of many ingenious
naturalists, particularly the quick-sighted Mr. Ellis, who has so clearly
investigated and described the corals and corallines of the adjacent
coasts.
To those who have perused the treatise of Plancus, already
mentioned, it is necessary to observe, that though the sand on our
coasts contain a vast variety of specimens, yet it by no means
appears so productive as the sand of Rimini; lest, despairing of
success in their first researches, they may be induced to desist from
further examination. Every parcel will, however, be found to contain
some of the more common shells.
It may not be improper here to point out to future inquirers the
mode of facilitating the discovery of these minute objects. The sand
being perfectly dried, put a handful on an open sheet of paper, and
by gently shaking it from side to side, the minute shells, being
specifically lighter than the sand, will be separated from, and lie on
its surface, and will thus be more expeditiously procured than by any
other method. It is also adviseable to place the objects intended for
inspection in a situation secured from any sudden blast of air,
otherwise, owing to their levity, they may be unexpectedly blown
away, and a loss sustained of some of the rarer specimens; even
incautiously breathing on them, or coughing, may be productive of
similar disagreeable effects.
The following observations by an ingenious critic[153] are so
apposite, and so perfectly coincident with my own sentiments on the
subject, that I cannot resist the impulse I feel to enable the reader
to partake of the pleasure which I have experienced in their perusal.
[153] Monthly Review, Vol. LXXI. p. 190.

“Let not the minuteness of the objects here delineated call up the
surly inquiries of those, who have not been accustomed to live with
their eyes open to the works of nature: they are not fit judges in
these matters. If they will persist in asking, Of what use is all this
labour? What good can accrue to mankind from this knowledge, in
point of food, or other use? We know of none at all, either present
or likely to happen, as to the body, for use or ornament, or to the
satisfying any appetite: nevertheless, a much nobler idea will take its
rise in our opinion; one which, by displaying so momentously the
power of the omniscient Creator, will thwart the infidel in his
favourite ideas of escaping the eyes of the Almighty, and force him,
as he descends the scale from the more immense objects to these
minutissima, to confess, that the being which has formed these, can
fully equal all that the tongue of man has yet declared of the
possibility of his power. For, what a train of wonders have we here to
pursue? What must be the œconomy of animals so very diminutive,
so weak, so exposed from their situation to the force of every rude
wave, and who, notwithstanding, so often escape unhurt? How do
they rear their young? From whence collect their prey?”

A DESCRIPTION AND ARRANGEMENT OF MINUTE AND RARE SHELLS.[154]

[154] Being possessed of Mr. Jacob’s own corrected copy of the work, to which
he has annexed the trivial names, I am thereby enabled to affix them to
the several shells here enumerated.

SERPULA.
THE WORM-SHELL.

Serpula Bicornis. Plate XIV. Fig. 2. S. bicornis ventricosa. The bellied

semilunar worm-shell.
 The colour white, opake, and glossy. From Sandwich and Reculver,
though not common.
Serpula Perforata. Fig. 3. S. bicornis umbilico perforato. The
semilunar perforated worm-shell.
The colour white, opake, and glossy. From Sandwich: very rare.
Serpula Lactea. Fig. 4. S. tenuis ovalis lævis. The thin, smooth, egg-
shaped worm-shell.
The colour pellucid, with milky veins. From Sandwich: not
common.
Serpula Lagena Sulcata. Fig. 5. S. (lagena) striata sulcata rotunda.
The round striated and furrowed flask worm-shell.
The colour whitish, transparent, and glossy. From Sandwich,
Reculver, and Shepey: very rare.
Serpula Retorta. Fig. 6. S. (retorta) rotunda marginata cervice
curvatim exerto. The marginated retort worm-shell.
The colour white and opake. From Sandwich: not common.
Serpula Incurvata. Fig. 7. S. recta anfractibus tribus contiguis
regulariter involutis. The straight horn worm-shell, with three close
intorted spires at the tip.
The colour white, semitransparent. From Sandwich: rare.
This shell, though resembling the semilituus of Linnæus, p. 1163,
No. 280, is not of the genus of Nautilus, having neither syphon in
the aperture, nor the internal concamerated structure.

DENTALE.
THE TOOTH-SHELL.

Dentalium Imperforatum. Fig. 8. D. apice imperforata transverse

striatum. The imperforated transversely striated tooth-shell.
The colour white and opake. From Sandwich: not very common.
 PATELLA.
THE LIMPET.

Patella Rota. Fig. 9. P. plana orbiculata margine regulariter dentato.

The toothed-wheel limpet.
The colour white and opake. From Sandwich: extremely rare.

HELIX.
THE DEPRESSED SNAIL.

Helix Carinata. Fig. 10. H. striata apertura compressa tribus

anfractibus carinata. The striated suboval-mouthed snail, of three
spires and a sharp edge.
The colour light brown pellucid. In a fresh water stream, near
Faversham.
Helix Spinosa. Fig. 11. H. subglobosa umbilicata ore subrotundo
margine spinoso. The roundish mouth deeply umbelicated snail with
a thorny margin.
The colour brown pellucid. From Bysing Wood, near Faversham:
exceeding rare.
Helix Reticulata. Fig. 12. H. unici anfractus subumbilicata apertura
rotunda marginata eleganter reticulata. The round mouthed
reticulated single spired slightly subumbilicated snail.
The colour white and pellucid. From Reculver: extremely rare.
Helix Striata. Fig. 13. H. striata apertura subovali anfractibus
supradorsalibus. The oval mouthed striated snail with the spires
reflected on the back.
The colour greenish, white pellucid. From Sandwich: very rare.

TURBO.
THE PRODUCED SNAIL.

Turbo Reticulatus. Fig. 14. T. subumbilicatus quatuor anfractibus

reticulatis apertura subrotunda. The slightly umbilicated turbo with
four reticulated spires, and a roundish aperture.
The colour white and pellucid. From Seasalter: very rare.
 Turbo Eburneus. Fig. 15. T. quinque anfractibus ventricosis apertura
subrotunda. The five spired ventricose turbo with a roundish mouth.
The colour white and opake. From Reculver: very rare.
Turbo Strigatus. Fig. 16. T. tribus anfractibus primo strigis tribus
transversis apertura subovata. The three spired turbo, the first spire
with three transverse ridges and a suboval aperture.
The colour opake white. From Seasalter: very rare.
Turbo Albidus. Fig. 17. T. turritus septem anfractibus strigatis
apertura ovali. The taper turbo with seven ridged spires and an oval
aperture.
The colour opake white. From Sandwich: rare.
Turbo Carinatulus. Fig. 18. T. turritus carinatus septem anfractibus
apertura coarctata marginata. The taper carinated turbo with seven
spires and a contracted marginated aperture.
The colour opake white. From Sandwich: very rare.
Turbo Clathratulus. Fig. 19. T. clathratus sex anfractibus apertura
ovali marginata. The barred six spired turbo with an oval marginated
aperture.
The colour opake white. From Sandwich: exceeding rare.
Turbo Crassus. Fig. 20. T. crassus clathratus quinque anfractibus
apertura rotunda marginata. The thick barred turbo of five spires
and a round marginated aperture.
The colour opake white. From Sandwich: very rare.
Turbo Punctatus. Fig. 21. T. turritus perversus novem anfractibus
punctatis apertura coarctata. The reversed taper turbo of nine
dotted spires and straitened aperture.
The colour light-brown opake. From Sandwich: not common.
Turbo Shepeianus. Fig. 22. T. sex anfractibus reticulatis apertura
ovali submarginata. The six spired reticulated turbo with an oval
submarginated aperture.
The colour semipellucid white. From Shepey island: very rare.
Turbo Sandvicensis. Fig. 23. T. tribus anfractibus reticulatis apertura
unidentata. The three spired elegantly reticulated turbo with a one
toothed oval aperture.
The colour pellucid white. From Sandwich: exceeding rare.
 TROCHUS.
THE TOP-SHELL.

Trochus Fuscus. Fig. 24. T. umbilicatus quinque anfractibus

marginatus apertura subrotunda. The five spired umbilicated
marginated top-shell with a roundish aperture.
The colour opake brown. From Sandwich: common.

BUCCINUM.
THE WHILK.

Buccinum Obtusulum. Fig. 25. B. ampullaceum tribus anfractibus

apertura ovali. The bellied whilk of three spires with an oval
aperture.
The colour opake white. From Faversham Creek: very rare.
Buccinum Longiusculum. Fig. 26. B. turritum quinque anfractibus
apertura ovali. The taper whilk of five spires with an oval aperture.
The colour white semipellucid and glossy. In Faversham Creek
only; but not uncommon there.

VOLUTA.
THE VOLUTE.

Voluta Alba. Fig. 27. V. alba opaca longitudinaliter striata. The

white opake volute. From Sandwich and Shepey island: not
uncommon.
This shell resembles Mr. Pennant’s voluta Jonensis, but differs in
the form of the aperture, as well as in the size.

BULLA.
THE DIPPER.

Bulla Regulbiensis. Fig. 28. B. crassa apertura medio coarctata. The

thick dipper, with a compressed aperture.
The colour white and opake. From Reculver: very rare.
 NAUTILUS.
THE CHAMBERED NAUTILUS.

Nautilus Beccarii. Fig. 29. N. spiralis umbilicatus geniculis insculptis.

The spiral umbilicated nautilus with deep joints.
The colour, while the fish is alive, is a fine pellucid crimson; when
dead, is white. It is found alive on the fucus vesiculosus, and is a
very common shell on all the coast, and seems to be an universal
litoral one, by the numbers found at Rimini, and in the sand of the
South Seas.
Lin. S. N. p. 1162, No. 276. Nautilus Beccarii. Planch. Tab. 1. Fig.
1. Gualtier, Tab. 19. Fig. H, H, I.
Nautilus Crispus. Fig. 30. N. spiralis geniculis crenatis. The spiral
nautilus with crenated joints.
The colour opake white. The finest specimens are from Shepey:
not uncommon.
Lin. S. N. p. 1162, No. 275. crispus. Planch. T. 1. f. 2. Gualt. T. 19.
f. A. D.
Nautilus Calcar. Fig. 31. N. spiralis apertura lineari geniculis
elevatis. The spiral nautilus, with a narrow aperture and raised
joints.
The colour opake white. From Shepey island: not common.
Lin. S. N. 1162, No. 274, calcar. Pl. T. 1. f. 3, 4. Gualt. T. 19. f. C.
B.
Nautilus Lævigatulus. Fig. 32. N. spiralis geniculis lævibus. The
spiral nautilus with smooth joints.
The colour semipellucid, white and glossy. From Sandwich and
Seasalter: not common.
Nautilus Depressulus. Fig. 33. N. spiralis utrinque subumbilicatus
geniculis depressis plurimis. The spiral subumbilicated nautilus, with
many depressed joints.
The colour opake white. From Reculver: very rare.
Nautilus Umbilicatulus. Fig. 34. N. spiralis umbilicatus geniculis
sulcatis. The umbilicated spiral nautilus, with furrowed joints.
The colour opake white. From Sandwich: not common.
Nautilus Crassulus.
 Fig. 35. N. spiralis crassus utrinque umbilicatus geniculis lineatis.
The thick spiral doubly umbilicated nautilus, with fine joints.
The colour opake white. From Reculver: exceeding rare.
Nautilus Lobatulus. Fig. 36. N. spiralis lobatus anfractibus supra
rotundatis subtus depressioribus. The spiral lobated nautilus, with
the spires rounded on the upper side, and depressed on the under.
The colour opake white. From Whitstable: not common.
Nautilus Carinatulus. Fig. 37. N. oblongus carinatus apertura lineari
ovali. The oblong carinated nautilus, with a narrow oval aperture.
The colour whitish, transparent like glass. From Seasalter and
Sandwich: very rare.
Nautilus Subarcuatulus. Fig. 38. N. subarcuatus geniculis exertis.
The bending nautilus with raised joints.
The colour opake brown. From Shepey island: very rare.

MYTILUS.
THE MUSCLE.

Mytilus Phaseolus. Fig. 39. M. lævis valvulis antice inflexis. The

smooth muscle, with the valves inflected in front.
The colour brown and glossy. From a fresh water stream near
Faversham: common.
Mytilus Punctatulus. Fig. 40. M. subrhombiformis punctatus. The
subrombic dotted muscle.
The colour pellucid white. From Sandwich: common.
Mytilus Discors. Fig. 41. M. discors areis tribus distinctis. The
divided muscle.
The colour opake brown. From Sandwich: not common.
Lin. S. N. 1159, No. 261. Da Costa Br. Conch, p. 221. Tab. 17. f. 1.
where it is exactly described, and as badly engraved.

ANOMIA.
THE SCALE.

Anomia Squamula. Fig.42. A. squamula. The scale anomia.

 The colour opake white and glossy. From Sandwich: not
uncommon.
Lin. S. N. 1151, No. 221. This shell is well described by Da Costa;
but neither he, or Mr. Pennant, have caused it to be engraved.

ARCA.
THE ARC.

Arca Modiolus. Fig. 43. A. oblonga striata antice angulata. The

oblong striated arc, with the foreside angulated.
The colour opake white. From Sandwich: not uncommon.
Lin. S. N. p. 1141, No. 171. Arca Modiolus.

CARDIUM.
THE COCKLE.

Cardium Muricatulum. Fig. 44. C. subcordatum antice muricatum.

The heart cockle, with the front muricated.
The colour opake white. From Shepey island: not uncommon.

LEPAS.
THE ACORN-SHELL.

Lepas Strigatulus. Fig. 45. L. balanus striatus apertura obliqua. The

striated acorn-shell, with an oblique aperture.
The colour light brown. From Sandwich, on the roots of sea-
weeds, the finest specimens on lobsters: not uncommon.

ECHINUS.
THE SEA-URCHIN.

Echinus Lobatulus. Fig. 46. E. subrotundus planus lobatus. The flat

roundish lobated echinus.
The colour opake white. From Reculver: rare.
 ASTERIAS.
THE STAR-FISH.

Asterias Triradiata. Fig. 47. A. triradiata lævis. The smooth three-

rayed star-fish.
The colour white, transparent as glass. On all the different shores
that have been examined.
Having thus described a few specimens of those pleasing
microscopical objects, minute shells, I shall agreeably to the
intimation given in the note to page 613, proceed to

A DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF A VARIETY OF VEGETABLE SEEDS.[155]

 [155] To the names as given by Dr. Parsons, those adopted by Linnæus are here
added.
Lithospermum Officinale. Plate XV. Fig. 1. Ibid. Linn. Gromwell. This
seed is in figure exactly like a human heart without the auricles, but
has no flat or depressed part on its sides; it is pretty circular round
its thickest part, and terminates in a blunt cone. At the thickest
extremity there is a circular roughness, which is the umbilicus, and
from thence to the cone on the shortest side it is bisulcated
longitudinally; so that the space between the sulci is a kind of ridge,
nor do either sulci or ridge extend to either extremity of the seed;
the rest of the surface is smooth and polished, the ground a light
ash-colour, with a shade or cloud of yellow or brown.
These seeds are very hard, and the ash-coloured shell is brittle
like that of a hen’s egg; which being broken, appears to be lined
with a light olive-coloured uniform membrane, which encloses a
nucleus of a Spanish snuff-colour, pretty smooth, and of the same
form with its shell, being in close contact with it all round.
The natural size of a middling grain of this seed is about the
eighth part of an inch long, and the ninth of an inch in diameter at
the roundest part.
Cyminum. Fig. 2. Cuminum C. Linn. Cummin. This seed is double,
though fixed side by side to one little stem; both which while
together seem like one, and are ribbed in an uneven manner
longitudinally, having great numbers of little threads or fibres
sticking out all over them, which makes them look hoary. They are
thick in the middle and run to a cone at each end. At the upper
extremity there is an appearance like a bifurcation in the stilus, each
of them belonging to its particular seed; this appears when the
seeds are separated.
These seeds are of a darkish straw-colour, the little threads or
fibres being much lighter than the body of the seed. Each of these
seeds contains in it a kernel of an olive-colour, and exactly in shape
like a waterman’s boat, and of the same proportion, having a
concave and convex side; the latter has a blunt ridge like the keel of
a boat, and the former has a white line from one end to the other,
which proves to be a ridge, to which the stilus that rises from the
little stem of the seed, adheres to support it.
When the seeds are together upon the stem their length is about
the fifth part of an inch, and about an eighth part of an inch in the
broadest part.
Papaver Album. Fig. 3. P. somniferum. Linn. Poppy. This is a little
yellowish white seed exactly resembling in shape a sheep’s kidney,
having a yellow place about the hollow part, which is its umbilicus,
analogous to the hollow part of the kidney into which the blood-
vessels (emulgents) enter.
If it be viewed on the back or convex part, concealing the hollow,
it is exactly shaped like an egg, having one end somewhat rounder
than the other.
All over its surface it has superficial cells, formed by ridges that
rise from the surface, which are some heptagons, some pentagons,
but for the most part hexagons, though not precisely of equal sides;
and the bottoms of these cells seem to be very porous.
The seeds seem very light and springy, as a gentle blast of ones
breath is capable of blowing them away, or a touch of any thing of
making them roll a considerable way. As to their size, they are not
above a twenty-fourth part of an inch long, and about a thirtieth part
broad or thick.
Carduus Benedictus. Fig. 4. Centaurea Benedicta. Linn. Blessed
Thistle. The body of this seed is about twice as long as it is thick, is
round and shaped much like a nine-pin, only instead of being small
at the upper end, it has a stricture, from whence arises a beautiful
crown of ten angles or points, out of which come also ten aristæ or
spiculæ like ivory, about the length of the body of the seed, running
taper upward, and set round in an uniform manner. Within the circle
of these long spikes there are ten more, which are but very short,
and of the same colour and consistence with the others. When these
are all plucked off, the vestiges of the circles they form appear in the
upper surface of the crown; in the middle of which a little process
arises, but very superficially. That part which appears circular is
white, and the rest of this surface, of the corona, of the same colour
with the rest of the body of the seed, which is a sort of an olive-
colour.
The body of the seed is of the sulcated kind, and looks exactly like
a fluted pillar, and the surface shines as if varnished with some
gummy substance.
At the lower or small end of this seed, there is an opening
reaching up above a third of the length of the body of the seed,
which discovers a white root, shaped like a cone at the bottom, and
rising thicker by degrees till it divides into three limbs; these run
taper upwards, till they are lost in the parenchyma of the seed,
which at the place of their entrance appears somewhat fungous, but
is more compact and clammy through its substance.
The length of the body is more than two eighths of an inch, and
the aristæ exactly the same length. The corona is its umbilicus.
Plantago. Fig. 5. P. Major. Linn. Plantain. By the imperfect idea we
have of this seed from its minuteness, it may seem like a flea, as
any small speck would, if a little oblong; yet its form is not constant,
that is, there are scarce two of them precisely alike, some being
perfectly elliptical, some with blunt angles, and some approaching a
spheroid. They have a whitish mark on one side, which is the
umbilicus of the seed, from whence the first rudiments of the plant
spring, and the surface is entirely granulated over, and has a general
appearance like some kinds of plumb-stones; the surface also shines
a little, as if oiled or moist, and their colour is brown. One of the
seeds cut transversely appears to have the shell or covering pretty
strong in proportion to its size, which contains a parenchyma that is
very porous and succulent. It is about a sixteenth part of an inch
long, and a twenty-second broad.
Staphis Agria. Fig. 6 and 7. Delphinum S. A. Linn. Stavesacre. The
seeds of this plant are rough and angular, inclining to a triangle,
although imperfectly so. They may be considered as having a basis
or apex; the basis is thick and clumsy, and the apex runs to an
angular point, which point is the umbilicus of the seed, out of which
its first rudiments arise; it also has a convex and a plane or concave
side; the former, Fig. 7, is rough, by reason of its being covered all
over with porous cells, the ridges of which are also depressed or
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