INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN CONSTRUCTION

Pattern Making Tools

To work efficiently, the pattern maker must have the proper tools and supplies. To communicate effectively in the work
room and to minimize errors due to misunderstanding, the pattern maker should know and understand terminology.

1. Straight pins / pearl headed pins

2. Pin holder – Pin cushion or magnetic holder for the wrist or to the table

3. Scissors - Fabric scissors

- Paper scissors

4. Pencils and pens - Chalk pencil

- Invisible pen

5. Rulers - 12” Metallic Ruler

- “L” Scale
- Hip Curve
- French Curve
- Triangle with measurements to square line

6. Hanger hooks and ringers - to hold the patterns together

7. Scotch tape / masking tape

8. Twill tapes / 1/2 “ Ribbon

9. Notcher - Cuts a 1/4 X 1/ 16 opening at the patterns edge to indicate

seam allowance, Centre lines, hiplines and other placements

10. Tracing Wheel - To transfer the patterns to fabrics

11. Awl - Pierces 1/8 “ hole in the pattern to indicate the ending of darts,

Pocket, trim and buttonhole placements

12. Metal Weights - Hold the patterns in place

13. Measuring Tape

Pattern Making Terms
Pattern Drafting : A system of patternmaking that depends on measurements taken from a form or model to
create basic, foundation or design patterns. Eg: Basic bodice , basic sleeve

Flat Pattern making : A system of patternmaking that is depend on previously developed patterns. The working
pattern is manipulated by using the slash or pivotal method to create design patterns.

Basic Pattern set : A seven piece pattern set consisting of front and back basic bodice, basic skirt, sleeve, basic
torso, and basic trouser , which represent the dimensions of a specific form or a figure. Basic blocks are the
foundation of flat pattern construction, created to fit the sample size. They have shaping but no style
lines/features and are used as a fitting tool to evaluate how they sit the body.

These should be marked with the following information:

Name / Company:
Style no :
Basic pattern name:
Part :
Size :
Date:
WORKING PATTERN
The basic patterns are used as a foundation for pattern manipulation to create the working pattern, the block
is traced on to pattern paper and manipulated with style lines and other details such as yokes, pleats, flare,
flounces, pintucks , pocketing, vents etc. And length is increased or decreased as desired. It is important at this
stage to consider the shape and movement of human body.
Individual pattern pieces should be extracted from the working pattern and seam and hem allowances added
if not included in the blocks.

Seam allowance = 1 /4” OR 1/2"

Hem allowance = 1/2" OR 1”
A toile (sample) is then manufactured to evaluate fit and design interpretation.

FINISHED PATTERN
Any alterations are translated on to the pattern creating the finished pattern the garment will be cut from.
The pattern pieces must include seam and hem allowance, grain lines, notches, drilholes and are to be
marked with the following details.
Name / Company:
Style no :
Garment style detail:
Part :
Cutting Instruction:
Size :
Date:

In all aspects of pattern cutting accuracy is vital. The contour lines of the pattern are to be fluid with no
uneven shapes and all joining lines must run smoothly in to another. Uneven lines will show as unsightly
bumps on the finished garment.
Fabric Terms

Muslin : A plain woven cotton made from bleached or unbleached corded yarns in a variety of weights:

• Coarse Weave : Used for draping and testing basic patterns

• Light weighted : Used for softly draped garments.
• Heavy weight : Firmly woven used for testing tailored garments, jackets and coats

Grain : The direction in which the yarn is woven or knitted

Fabric Defect
Land Mark Terms
Taking Measurements
• Place the metal tip end of the tape measure at one reference point and extend to the next reference point when taking
measurements.
• Record measurements on the Model Measurement Chart
• Numbers in parentheses correspond with those on the chart.
• Arc measurements are taken from center lines to the side seam.
• The same half of the front and back of the form is measured.

Circumference Measurements

• Bust (1). Across bust points and back

• Waist (2). Around waist.
• Abdomen (3). Three inches below waist.
• Hip (4). Measure widest area with tape parallel with floor. Pin to mark hip level at center front (referred to as X-
point).
Horizontal Measurements
Back
Front

• Across shoulder (16). Center front to 1 inch

above mid-armhole (pinhead mark) • Back neck (12). Center back neck to shoulder at
• Across chest (15). Center front to 1 inch above neck. Reference measurement.
mid-armhole (pinheaded mark)\ • Across shoulder (14). Shoulder tip to center
• Bust arc (17). Center front, over bust point, back neck.
ending 2 inches below arm plate at side seam. • Across back (16). Center back to 1 inch above
• Bust span (10). Place tape across bust points; the mid-armhole at ridge of pinhead.
divide in half for measurement. • Back arc (18). Center back to bottom of arm
• Waist arc (19). Center front waist to side waist plate.
seam. • Waist arc (19). Center back waist to side waist
• Dart placement (20). Center front to side front seam
(princess line). • Dart placement (20). Center back waist to side
• Abdomen arc (22). Center front to side seam, back (princess line).
starting 3 inches down from waist. • Abdomen arc (22). Center back to side seam,
• Hip arc (23). Center front to side seam on HBL starting 3 inches down from waist.
line. • Hip arc (23). Center back o side seam on HBL
• Hip depth (25). Center front to HBL line. line.
• Hip depth (25). Center back waist to HBL line.
Vertical Measurements

• Side length (11). Pin mark below arm plate at

side seam to side waist.
• Shoulder length (13). Shoulder tip to neck.
• Side hip depth (26). Side waist to HBL, on side
of form being measured.
• Bust radius (9). Measure from bust point ending
under bust mound.

Front and Back

• Centre length (5). Neck to waist (over bust
bridge).
• Full length (6). Waist to shoulder at neck,
parallel with centre lines.
• Shoulder slope (7). Center line at waist to
shoulder tip (pinhead mark).
• Bust depth (9). Shoulder tip to bust point.

Strap Measurements
Strap front (8). Place metal tip of measuring tape at
shoulder/neck and measure down to pinhead mark
below armhole plate. Take the measurement on the
same side of the tape from neck to armhole. The
tape may pass over some part of the plate
Standard Measurement Chart
CIRCUMFERENCE
MEASUREMENTS Grade: 1 1 1 1 1/ 2 1 1/ 2 1 1/ 2 2
(Ease not included) Size: 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
1. Bust: 34 35 36 37- 1/2 39 40- 1/2 42- 1/2
2. Waist: 25- 1/2 26- 1/2 27- 1/2 29 30- 1/2 32 34
3. Abdomen: 32 33 34 35- 1/2 37 38- 1/2 40- 1/2
4. Hip: 1
35- /2 36- /21 1
37- /2 39 1
40- /2 42 44
UPPER TORSO
5. Center length:
Front 14- 1/8 14- 3/8 14- 5/8 14- 7/8 15- 1/8 15- 3/8 15- 5/8
Back 16- 1/4 16- 1/2 16- 3/4 17 17- 1/4 17- 1/2 17- 3/4
6. Full length:
Front 16- 7/8 17- 1/4 17- 5/8 18 18- 3/8 18- 3/4 19- 1/8
Back 16- 3/4 17- 1/8 17- 1/2 17- 7/8 18- 1/4 18- 5/8 19
7. Shoulder slope:
Front 17- 1/16 17- 3/8 17- 3/4 18- 1/8 18- 1/2 18- 7/8 19- 1/4
Back 16- 5/16 16- 5/8 17 17- 3/8 17- 3/4 18- 1/8 18- 1/2
8. New Strap: 17 17- 3/8 17- 3/4 18- 3/16 18- 5/8 19- 1/16 19- 9/16
9. Bust depth: 9- 1/8 9- 5/16 9- 1/2 9- 11/16 9- 7/8 10- 1/16 10- 1/4
Radius: 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
10. Bust span: 3- 5/8 3- 3/4 3- 7/8 4- 1/16 4- 1/4 4- 7/16 4- 11/16
11. Side length: 8- 1/8 8- 1/4 8- 3/8 8- 1/2 8- 5/8 8- 3/4 8- 7/8
12. Back neck: 2- 5/8 2- 7/8 3 3- 1/8 3- 1/4 3- 3/8 3- 1/2
13. Shoulder length: 5- 1/8 5- 3/16 5- 1/4 5- 3/8 5- 1/2 5- 5/8 5- 13/16
14. Across shoulder:
Front 7- 1/2 7- 5/8 7- 3/4 7- 15/16 8- 1/8 8- 5/16 8- 9/16
Back 7- 3/4 7- 7/8 8 8- 3/16 8- 3/8 8- 9/16 8- 13/16
15. Across chest: 6- 1/2 6- 5/8 6- 3/4 6- 15/16 7- 1/8 7- 5/16 7- 9/16
16. Across back: 6- 3/4 6- 7/8 7 7- 3/16 7- 3/8 7- 9/16 7- 13/16
17. Bust arc: 9- 1/2 9- 3/4 10 10- 3/8 10- 3/4 11- 1/8 11- 5/8
18. Back arc: 8- 1/8 8- 3/8 8- 5/8 9 9- 3/8 9- 3/4 10- 1/4
19. Waist arc:
Front 6- 1/2 6- 3/4 7 7- 3/8 7- 3/4 8- 1/8 8- 5/8
Back 6- 1/8 6- 3/8 6- 5/8 7 7- 3/8 7- 3/4 8- 1/4
20. Dart Placement:
Front 3 3- 1/8 3- 1/4 3- 7/16 3- 5/8 3- 13/16 4- 1/16
Back 3 3- 1/8 3- 1/4 3- 7/16 3- 5/8 3- 13/16 4- 1/16
21. Number not used
LOWER TORSO
22. Abdomen:
Front 7- 3/4 8 8- 1/4 8- 5/8 9 9- 3/8 9- 7/8
Back 8 8- 1/4 8- 1/2 8- 7/8 9- 1/4 9- 5/8 10- 1/8
23. Hip arc:
Front 8- 5/8 8- 7/8 9- 1/8 9- 1/2 9- 7/8 10- 1/4 10- 3/4
Back 9- 1/8 9- 3/8 9- 5/8 10 10- 3/8 10- 3/4 11- 1/4
24. Crotch depth: 9- 1/2 9- 3/4 10 10- 1/4 10- 1/2 10- 3/4 11
25. Hip depth:
Center front 7- 1/2 7- 3/4 8 8- 1/4 8- 1/2 8- 3/4 9
Center back 7- 3/8 7- 5/8 7- 7/8 8- 1/8 8- 3/8 8- 5/8 8- 7/8
26. Side hip depth: 7- 5/8 7- 7/8 8- 1/8 8- 3/8 8- 5/8 8- 7/8 9- 1/8
27. Waist to knee: 22 22- 1/2 23 23- 1/2 24 24- 1/2 25
Waist to ankle: 37 37- 1/2 38 38- 1/2 39 39- 1/2 40
Waist to floor: 39 39- 1/2 40 40- 1/2 41 41- 1/2 42
28. Crotch length: 24- 1/2 25- 1/4 26 26- 3/4 27- 1/2 28- 1/4 29
Vertical trunk 59 60- 1/2 62 63- 1/2 65 66- 1/2 68
29. Upper thigh: 20 20- 3/4 21- 1/2 22- 1/2 23- 1/2 24- 1/2 25- 3/4
Mid thigh: 18- 1/2 19 19- 1/2 20- 1/4 21 21- 3/4 22- 3/4
30. Knee: 13 13- 1/2 14 14- 1/2 15 15- 1/2 16
31. Calf: 12- 1/4 12- 5/8 13 13- 3/8 13- 3/4 14- 1/8 14- 1/2
32. Ankle: 8- 1/2 8- 3/4 9 9- 1/4 9- 1/2 9- 3/4 10
Foot entry: 12 12- 1/4 12- 1/2 12- 3/4 13 13- 1/4 13- 1/2

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