Simplicity Copyright Clayton Boyer 2007

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Page 1B

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Dial Ring
Center Wheel

Minute Hand
Dial Ring Hour Hand
Mounting Hole
Clicks

Weight Cord Hole

Cannon Pinion
Hour Wheel

Shelf

Pendulum Pivot

Mounting Hole Shelf Supports

in Mounting Support

Intermediate Wheel
Third Wheel Pinion

1/2"

Third Wheel

Lower Frame Support

Escape Pinion

Escape Wheel

Pendulum Shaft

Pallets

Counter-
Weight Cord Weight Cord Page 2
Back Frame
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DeltaCad DEMO
 Center Wheel
Dial Ring
Minute Hand #8-32 x 1/8 Allen screw

Hour Hand
4x3mm
Leather plug

Hour Wheel
#8-32 x 3/16 Allen Screw
4x5mm

Quiet Click System

Cannon Pinion

Wind Pulley
Front Frame

Support
Support Block
#1
Glue in place

1/4" Wood Dowel

Shelf

Support Block
#2
Mounting Hole
Glue in place
Intermediate Wheel

Pendulum Pivot Support

Pendulum Pivot
Sh
el
fF
ra
m
e
Su
pp
or
t
Connector

3rd

Pinion
3rd Wheel

Back Frame
Escape Wheel

Counterweight
Cord

Lower Frame Support

Connector

Escape

Pinion
Pendulum
#8 Washers

Weight Cord
Crutch
Pallets

Page 3
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DeltaCad DEMO
 Click Hangers
Make Three and press into holes in Center Wheel

1/8 Rod
3

Center Wheel
1/2" Thick
12

Center Wheel Support

Glue onto the BACK of the Center Wheel
#8-32 x 3/16 Allen Screw
4x5
9/64
3.5
Center Wheel Support

3/16
5 1/8 This is the 3rd Wheel Pinion
1/2" Thick 3
12
1/2" Ply

3rd 3rd
5/32
3/16 4
5 1/2" Thick
12

NOTE(!)
These Pinions are NOT the Same

This is the Escape Wheel Pinion

1/2" Ply
1/2"
12
Thick Escape Escape
5/32
4

NOTE(!)
These Pinions are NOT the Same

Page 4

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Thread Weight Cord throught THIS Hole Only 22 Feet of Wind Cord required.
6.7M
Wind Cord - Mason Tackle Co. Otisville, Michigan 48463 Braided Nylon Polyester 'Squidding Line' 45LB
test "SurfCaster". Alternatively you can use 50 lb monofiliment line.
23kg
2
Drill 3/323.35M
through back and center only.
Thread 11' of Weight Cord through Center Divider
3/32 wind 30 turns, clockwise, onto the back half of the pulley.
2

Glue
This
13/64 Click
Gear
5+
13/64 face to
5+ pulley

1/4 Ply
6
Wind Pulley BarrelGlue Click Gear Here
38
Turn pulley from 1.5" DIA stock, or laminate
using three rounds of 1/8 ply with 1/4
6
ply in between
3 As viewed from back of Pulley

3/32 3/32
2 2
Wind Pulley Wind Pulley Wind Pulley
Front Center Back
1/8ply 1/8ply 1/8ply
3 3 3
13/64 13/64 13/64
5+ 5+ 5+

Glue Click Gear here

Wind Pulley Wind Pulley
Barrel Barrel
1/4ply 1/4ply
6 6
13/64 13/64
5+ 5+

5+ means part should move freely on 5mm rod

These Clicks must be able to move freely. Weight Cord Path

Not Shown Actual Size
Sand them slightly thinner than 1/4" (6mm) for clearance. 30 Turns
See Instructions above
6 6
6 1/4ply 1/4ply Tie Off Tie Off
Clicks 1/4ply
3.5
9/64
3.5
9/64
3.5

9/64

Clicks fit together like this

on the Center Wheel
as viewed from front of clock

Page 5

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Third Wheel

Glue Spacer and 3rd Wheel Pinion Here

1/4" Thick
6

5/32
4

3rd Wheel Connector

5/32
4
3rd Wheel Connector
1/4"
6
Thick

Page 6

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Escape Wheel

Glue Spacer and Escape Wheel Pinion Here

4
6 5/32
1/4" Thick
6
1/4" Thick
Escape Conn

4
5/32

Escape Connector

Original Simplicity Pallets

Pallets
1/2" Thick
12
1/8 3

3.5
9/64

Page 7

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DeltaCad DEMO
 This arrangement allows the hands to be set by moving the Intermediate Wheel
4x3
#8-32 x 1/8" Allen screw
The Leather Plug is made by drilling an old leather belt or shoe with a 5/32 brass tube.
4
The Leather Plug will be 1/8" in diameter and should be about 1/8" tall.
3 3 Leather plug
4
Insert 7/32 brass tube to here
5/32 ctr
Minute Hour Tube Assembly
goes here Cannon 7/32 Tube
Cannon Pinion .25 9/64
3.5
Hand
5.5

9/64
3/16 ctr hole 3/16 3/16
Insert only this deep

Cannon
5
5
We don't want the Allen Screw to 7/32
hit the brass tube.
(See Instructions for Page 8) 7/32
7/32 CS
5.5
1/2"
12
Ply
4x3
Insert leather plug into this hole. Screw in a #8-32 x 1/8 Allen screw
5
Tighten Allen screw until there is a slight resistance to the 3/16" arbor rod.
Make sure the Allen Screw does not sit proud of its hole so the Intermediate Wheel will clear.

Intermediate Wheel Spacer Intermediate Wheel Arbor Cap

5
3/16
Thickness

9/64 1/8
3
3.5
Glue this Spacer to
the BACK of the Intermediate Wheel 1/8
3

Intermediate
Hour wheel Wheel

6
9/64 3.5
1/4

6 6
1/4" 1/4"

Glue this pinion to the FRONT of the Intermediate Wheel

Drill 1/4"
6
and insert Tube
1
Push tube in so that it extends 1/32" beyond back of gear 9/64
Not Flush with end of Tube
Hour wheel goes here Intermediate
Pinion

Hour Hour
Hand Wheel

1/4" Tube
6
Cut Pinion from 1/2 ply
12
Sand this Pinion to 3/8" Thickness
10
Page 8

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Arbors and Spacers
Center Wheel Arbor File flat spot
For Allen Screw
3/16" Rod
c Minute
Cannon Tube and Cannon Pinion Frame Pulley Center
a
p Hand Clicks
Wheel and Spacer Frame

5.5
7/32 Tube
Rear Spacer
Intermediate Wheel Arbor #8 Flat Washer
1/8" Rod
3
c
a
p
Intermediate wheels
Spacer Frame

Third Wheel Arbor Insert into Back Frame with Wheel, Pinion and 5/32 Tube in place.
3
1/8" Rod
c
a
p
Spacer Frame

Pinion Conn
3rd
Wheel 5/32 Tube
4
Spacer 5/32 Tube
4

Escape Arbor
3
1/8" Rod
c
a
p Frame
#8 Flat Washers
Escape
Pinion Conn Wheel

5/32 Tube
4

Pallet Arbor
Space With Washers
Arbor Caps
1/8" Rod
3
Cap Pallets Crutch
Side View

4
3 3 3
5/32 Tube 1/8 3/16
1/8 1/8
5
This Brass Bushing is
pushed into Back Frame Third, Escape and Pallet Arbors Center Wheel Arbor

Crutch Pin
1/8" Rod
3
Crutch

Page 9

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DeltaCad DEMO
 5+ means 5mm rod should turn easily inside hole

13 5+

.
/64

ea
ar
is
Gl
ue

th

e
M
to

in
He Fram

ce
nd
re e

lan
ha

Ba
.7

he
19 Su G
pp lue

t
or

"D

of
t
#2 Blo

ck
1"

ia
c k

ba
Di Bottom of
a

e
24 Variant

th
m
fro
ck

k
oc
3/

st
8

st

e
10

m
4"

so
1/

ing
m

ov
fro

em

e
ds

M
by
an

ce
nd
1/

lan
6
tH
4

ha

Ba
Cu

e
ut

Glue this end into the BACK of

in
M

the Back Frame

e
th
ce

1/8
1/
4

lan
Pl

6
y

Ba

7/
M 32 This End Toward
in
G ut 5.5 3/8 Wood Dowel Back of Clock
lu e 10 Flush with Wall
on Ha
e
to nd
e
ha C
nd o End View
wh un Toward Back of Clock
m

er te
e rw
sh Flush with Wall
ow eig
ra

n ht
Pendulum Pivot Support Rod
F

1/
ick

4
Pl
y
1/2 ack

1/ 6
Th

4
Pl
6 y
12 "
B

G
S u l ue B
pp ot
o t
on rt H om
BA ere
CK

1/8
3

Lower Frame Support

Glue to Back of Back Frame Here

19
.75
1/2" Thick
12

Toward Back of Clock

5/3 4
Br
as
s Ins
2
er
t Page 10
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DeltaCad DEMO
 2
3/32

Drill 1/4" hole 1/2" deep .82

6 12
20

1/2" Thick
12 Cut Out
Front Frame Back Frame feeds up through here
(Snug Fit)
Top Glue in Place
This Support Block gets glued
below the Shelf to the front
of the Back Frame

13/64
Support Block
#2

Glue #1 Support
Half Lap

Cut Out
Cut Out

Support Block

Block Here
Glue Together
#1

3
1/8
Glue H
ere
Remove after cutting Half Lap

Top View of Shelf

Cut Out
Safety Handle

1/2" Thick
30 12
1.19
1/2" Thick

3/32
2
12

Page 11
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DeltaCad DEMO
 Rt. Frame
Top
Top Rt. Frame 3/16
1/2" Thick CS 3/8

3/32
2 12 CS 3/8 DIA, 1/8 Deep

3/16 Thru
Mounting Holes
Cut Out

Glue Shelf Supports Here

Drill 3/32 for Weight Cord
1/2" Thick
1.19 12
Ri
30 gh
t
Sh
elf
Fr
am
e
Su
pp
or
t

Shelf Supports Mounting Supports

1/2" Thick

To have clock's run time at about 30 hours,

Screw Mounting Holes to wall at 70" above floor.
1.78M
Le
tS f
he
lf

Glue Shelf Supports Here

Fr
am
e
Su
po p
rt

.82
20 Cut Out
Drill 3/32 for Weight Cord 12
1/2" Thick

Top CS 3/8
3/32

12
2 1/2" Thick Top 3/16
Lt Frame
Lt Frame

Page 12

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DeltaCad DEMO
 .50 1/2 ply
12 12

1.5 Pendulum Pivot Pin 1/8

3
Drill for 1/16 pin
Crutch Pin
goes here
Cut two pins 24
One for here, 1" long
One for Bob, 3/4" long
19

1.5
1/16 Rod

Thick
For Pivot

Crutch

Side View
1.5
1/16 Rod

1/4"
Pendulum Pivot

6
For Bob

Pendulum rod 1/2 x 1/2 x 42"

12 12 107

1/8
3.5
9/64" hole
6 6
for Crutch Pin 9/64
Drill 1/4" and glue in 1/4" wood dowel
This will keep the thin Crutch from splitting and give the screw something to bit into.
Cut Out

Connect Bob here

with 1/16 pin
1.5

.50
12 Front of Bob
1/4" Thickness
6

Page 13
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DeltaCad DEMO
 ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
#8-32 Threaded Rod

Back of Bob
5.00 1/4" Thickness
127 6
4

Bob

Front Bob Piece

Waste

Slider
1/2" Thickness Cut Slider free of Center Bob
12
Center Bob Piece

Attach bottom of
Pendulum Rod here

Cut out, glue on Back then Fill With Lead Cut out, glue on Back then Fill With Lead

Waste Waste

1.5
3.5 Drill 1/16 to attach
Drill 9/64 for the
Back Bob Piece

Pendulum Shaft
#8-32 Threaded Rod (See previous page for Pin)
4

Waste

Drill 3/16
5
The three pieces of the finished Bob
fit together in a sandwich, like this
Center Piece of Bob Page 14
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DeltaCad DEMO
 Dial Ring Supports
1/4" Wood Dowel
Dial Ring
6
To
For 1/2" Frame p
Make 2 12

Z
Match the Z's

1/2" thickness Z's are at 12:00 o'clock

12
6
1/4

Before removing the

paper pattern, scratch these
hour lines into the wood
1/2" thickness
with a knife or Exacto 12 1/2" thickness
12

Z's are at 12:00 o'clock

Mounting Holes

Match the Z's Drill 1/4", 3/8" deep

6 9
from the other side
Z

To
p

Page 15

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DeltaCad DEMO
 3
1/8 Groove

Weight Pulley
#8 Flat Washers
Optionally, the pulley can be made by
sandwiching three pieces of stock together.
The center is 3 3/4"DIA, 1/4" stock, and
both sides are made of 4"DIA, 1/8" stock.
Center Pulley Piece
1.88 R
Outer Pulley Pieces (3 3/4"DIA, 1/4 Stock)
2.00 R 95 6
(4"DIA, 1/8 Stock)
102 3

.75
19

16
5/8 Thickness Cut Two Rods for Each Pulley
16
3 Hang Weights here
5/8
1/8Make
Rod4
.7519
1/8 1/8 9/16

Kerf
3 3

1/8
1/8
1/8

3 3
1/8

3 1/4" Thickness 3 1/4" Thickness

6 6

1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8

3 1/4" Thickness 3 3 1/4" Thickness 3

6 6

12 12
9/64
9/64

1/2" thickness 1/2" thickness

These will fit in the scrap left from the Dial Ring
3.5 These will fit in the scrap left from the Dial Ring
3.5

3
Cut groove 1/8 deep
Page 16
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DeltaCad DEMO
 280 38
The weight is made from 11" of 1 1/2"Copper Pipe
And its appropriate metal cap.

A hole is drilled in the center of the Cap. Bend a wire in the shape
of a hook and afix tightly to the inside of the cap.
Then fill the tube with Lead.
Small Lead BB's work well here, and also for filling the voids of the
Pendulum bob.
Seal the end with epoxy or another cap to hold in the BB's.
The clock should run fine on 7 pounds, but each clock will vary slightly.
3kg

11.00
280

Put lead in here. NOT in Counterweight.

4.00
102

Counterweight
remains empty.

Counterweight Weight

Page 17
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DeltaCad DEMO
 Optional Dial Ring page
If you would like to lay up individual segments

Watch Grain Direction!

Choose one direction and stick with it throughout.

Alternate open and filled dots when assembling

1.50 Match these

38 Dotted Lines
Cut apart and match into a single strip

B
A

B
A

8.12
206

Page 18

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Dial Ring
Center Wheel

Wide Frame Variant

See Last 5 Pages of this pattern
Minute Hand
Dial Ring Hour Hand
Mounting Hole Hour Wheel

Clicks

Cannon Pinion

Shelf

Pendulum Pivot

Mounting Hole Shelf Supports

in Mounting Support

Intermediate Wheel
Third Wheel Pinion

3/4"

Third Wheel

Lower Frame Support

Escape Pinion

Escape Wheel

Pendulum Shaft

Pallets

Back Frame

Wide Frame Variant

See Last 5 Pages of this pattern
My clock runs on 4 pounds with this set up.

Page 3 Variant

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DeltaCad DEMO
 19
For 3/4" Frame Variant
Glue this edge to Mounting Support
Drill 1/4" hole 1/2" deep
6 12

Weight Cord Mount

3/32

Variant
Frame

Variant
1/4 Wood Dowel
6
Wind Gear Shelf
Top View of Shelf
3/4" Thick
19
Front Frame Variant
1/2" Thick Cut Out
12 6 Back Frame feeds up through here
Drill 1/4" from below
for weight cord mount
(Snug Fit)
Top Bevel
Glue in Place
This Support Block gets glued
below the Shelf to the front
Down

of the Back Frame

13/64
5+ Support Block
Front Frame #2
Top Front
Half Lap Joint

Glue #1 Support
Top Front
Cut Out
Cut Out
Top Front

Note direction of Wind Cord hole

Support Block

Block Here
Glue Together
Variant
#1

1/8
3 Glue H
ere
Down

Bevel

.50
12
These two are NOT half lap joints

Shelf Support

Mounting Supports
Remove after cutting Half Lap

Finished Shelf looks like this

Wind Cord Mount Bevel Down

Cut Out for 15 Gear clearance

(Not Actual Size)
Safety Handle

15 Gear
A

12 Gear
Mounting Supports

Shelf

Shelf Support
1/2" Thick

3/4" Thick Variant

19
12

See Page 21 for side view of Variant Frame

Page 19 Variant

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DeltaCad DEMO
 5+
For 3/4" Frame
19
Variant 13/64
NOTE: 3/8" Ply
10
3/8" Stock
Glue Shelf Frame Supports Here Variant
Back Wind Support

Mounting Holes B
3/16 Thru for 3/4 Shelf
5
3/8 CS 1/4" Deep 19
10 6
3/4" Thick

t
p or
p
Su
e
19

m
Fra
e lf
Sh 13/64
5+
12
NOTE: Glue Wind Gear Shelf Here

1/2" Stock
Variant
Front Wind Support
Cut Out
A
Mounting Support

for 3/4 Shelf

Variant Top 3/4" Thick 19
19

Variant Top 3/4" Thick

19

Cut Out
Variant

Sh Variant
elf
Fr
am
e
Su
pp
or
t

Glue Shelf Frame Supports Here Page 20 Variant

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Cut flat to drill for Allen Screw, then cut out gear.

Variant Wind Gears Variant

4x5
#8-32 x 3/16 Allen Screw
File Flat Spot
12 2
for Allen Screw
1/2 Ply 3/32
12 9/64 Frame 12 Gear Frame
3.5 3/16 Rod
5
3/16
5 3/32 rod
Variant
2

Rear Spacer for Center Wheel Arbor

This one is slightly longer than original

7/32 Tube
5.5
Wind Pulley Assembly
38
1.50 DIA
15 Gear
Ease over this edge to prevent catching Wind Cord
15 Gear
24 Use Ply for Click Gear even if the rest of your clock is hardwood.
15
1/2 Ply
12 1.00 DIA
2
Glue
3/32
5+
This
13/64
1/4 Ply Click 13/64
13/64
5+
face to
pulley Gear 1/8" Ply
3
5+

6
For Wind Cord
1/4 Ply
Use Ply for Click Gear 3/32
2
Glue Click Gear Here 5+
13/64
1/4" Ply
Laminate Pulley using one round of 1/8 ply with 1/4 ply in between 6
3 6
Variant 3.67M
12 Feet of Wind Cord required. Simplicity Variant Side View
Wind Cord - Mason Tackle Co. Otisville, Michigan 48463 Not Shown Actual Size
Braided Nylon Polyester 'Squidding Line' 45LB. Test "SurfCaster" Front Frame
Back Frame

Alternatively, 50LB. Monofiliment fishing line.

23kg
Support Block
#1 13/64

These Clicks must be able to move freely.

Glue to Frame

Wind Gear Shelf Here

3/4" Thick Bottom of

Variant

Sand them slightly thinner than 1/4" for clearance. Variant Top Support Block
#2
Glue
Support Block
#2

6 6 3/8
6
Mounting Support

1/4 ply 1/4 ply

Clicks 1/4 ply
3.5
3.5
9/64 9/64
3.5
Sh
elf

9/64
F ra
m
e
Good quality ply is best for these also. Su
pp
or
t
1/8
Back Frame

Clicks fit together like this

1/2" Thick

on the Center Wheel

Glue Bottom
Support Here
on BACK

1/8

.75

Page 21 Variant 5/32

Brass Insert

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Wind Gear Key and Weight Pulley
Need 2 1/8 Ply 1/8 Ply 1/8 Ply
for each pulley 3 3 3
Pulley End Pulley Center Pulley End

#8 Flat Washer 9/64 9/64 9/64

3.5 3.5 3.5
Variant
3
1/8 Rod

1/8 1/8 Make 2

1/8 Ply

1/8 Ply
.50
12

3
.50 12 3 3 3
1/8 1/8 1/8
.50
12 .50
1/8
12 3
6
Handle .25

13/64 7/64 2.5

5.5
Glue and Pin in place 19
.75

Wind Key Variant

3/4" DIA Wood Dowel
19

Handle
1.5
1/16 1/16
1.5

3/4
19

Variant
1.5
Drill for 1/16 metal pin

1/16 SS Rod
1.5

1.25 DIA
32
Page 22 Variant

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DeltaCad DEMO
 For 3/4" Frame
Dial Ring Supports 19

1/4" Wood Dowel

Dial Ring
6
For 3/4" Frame To
p
Make 2 19
Variant
Z
Match the Z's
Z's are at 12:00 o'clock
12
6
1/4

Before removing the

paper pattern, scratch these
hour lines into the wood
with a knife or Exacto

Variant Variant Variant

Z's are at 12:00 o'clock

Mounting Holes

Match the Z's Drill 1/4", 3/8" deep

6 10
from the other side
Z

To
p

Page 23 Variant

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DeltaCad DEMO
 New Options!
Roman Numeral Dial Option For Variant

New larger Hands for Roman Numeral Dial

Balance Me
Balance the Minute hand by removing some stock from the back of the hand in this area.
For Variant 1.25" Dia
2.54

1" Dia
24

Balance Me
6 6

1/4 1/4

Cut Hands from 1/4" stock

6
1" Square

7/32
1/4 5.5
6

1/4 Ply
6

1/4 Ply
6

Minute Hand Counterweight

Glue onto hand where shown

1/4 Ply
6

Hourly Strike Option

Hammer

Hourly Strike Option NEW!!!

19
For 3/4" Frame Variant To add the Hourly Strike Option
NEW!!! for Variant NEW!!! Hammer
Glue this edge to Mounting Support
3
Make the Center Arbor and Intermediate Arbors 1/8" longer
1/4 stock Drill 1/4" hole 1/2" deep
6 12
6
1/16 Glue Strike Pivot Here
1.5 Weight Cord Mount
on TOP of Shelf
3/32
2
Variant
Fra me

Strike Arm 1/2

12
stock
Variant
1/4 Wood Dowel
6
Wind Gear Shelf Snail

1/8
9/64 Top View of Shelf Glue t o back of Cannon
Strike Arm must move f reely in Pivot Support 3/4" Thick This is the FRONT
19
Variant Hammer
Front Frame Cut Out
13/64
1/2" Thick Mount a bell in the path of the Strike Hammer 5+
Dial Ring

Pivot Support
Side View
Pivot Support
Cap
1.5 12 6 Back Frame f eeds up through here 1/8 Ply
1/8 ply Insert and bend 1/16" wire to suit Drill 1/4" from below (Snug Fit) 3
3 for weight c ord mount
1/8 Top Glue in Place
Insert and bend 1/16" wire to suit
3 Bevel
This Support Block gets glued 1.5
Glue to top lef t of Shelf below the Shelf to the front
Down

of the Back Frame

13/64
Pivot Strike Arm Cap
Adjust the Minute Hand to the Strike Snail 5+ Support Block 4x3
Minute Hand

1/8 Rod Front Frame #2

#8-32 x 1/8 Allen screw
Hour Hand

Glue to back of Cannon

Simplicity Variant Side View
Glue #1 Suppor t
Half Lap Join t

Leather plug
Cut Out
Cut Out

Support Bloc k

Hour Wheel

Note direction of Wind Cord hole

12 Gear
Glue Pivot Support Here
Block Her e

Hammer Glue Together

7/32 Variant
#1

Mount a bell in the path of the Strike Hammer

15 Gear

5.5

Insert and bend 1/16" wire to suit 1/8 Ply Strike Arm Snail
3 1/8 Back Frame
Snai l

1.5 3 Glue Here 2

Cannon Pinion

Front Frame

3/32
Dow n

Can no n

Top
Bevel 15 Gear
12 Gear
.50 Pivot Support Support Block
#1
Strike Arm 12
15 Gear Snail
NOT half lap joint s

Shelf Support
Mo u n tin g Su p p o r ts
Remove after cutting Half Lap

Pivot Support Shelf 1/4" Wood Dowel

These two are NOT

Finished Shelf looks like this

Wind Co rd Mount Bevel Down

Cut Out for 15 Gea r clearance

(Not Actual Size)

Shelf
Safety Handle

Intermediate Wheel
15 G ear

Support Block
#2
A

Mounting Supports Mounting Supports

Cannon Pinion
12 Gear

Cannon Pinion
She lf Sup port

She lf Sup port

Mo u n tin g Su p p o r ts

Reduced to fit page

Sh e lf

Shelf Support

NOT Shown actual size

Adjust the Minute Hand to the Strike
1/2" Thick

All other parts shown actual size 3/4" Thick Variant Intermediate Wheel Spacer 3
19 1/8
Spacer Thic kness
1/8pl y
12

9/64
Hourly Strike Option NEW!!! 3.5
3

for Variant Page 19 Variant Put this Spacer in BACK of the Intermediate Wheel

After seven years of daily, slowly rewinding my Simplicity Variant, in April 2014 I introduced.....

Speed-O Rewind Key Option 3/16 Dowel 3/16

Rewinds in seconds!!!! Zooooom!!!
3/8 Dowel

3/8", 1/2" deep .25

12
13/64 7/64

.75

3/4" DIA Wood Dowel

Assembled Speed-O-Key looks like this.

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DeltaCad DEMO
 Hammer

Hourly Strike Option

NEW!!! for Variant NEW!!! Hammer
1/4 stock
6
1/16
1.5

Strike Arm 1/2

12
stock
9/64
1/8 Strike Arm must move freely in Pivot Support

Pivot Support 1.5

Pivot Support
Side View Cap
1/8 ply Insert and bend 1/16" wire to suit
3
1/8
3
Glue to top left of Shelf

Pivot Strike Arm Cap Snail

1/8 Rod
Adjust the Minute Hand to the Strike
Glue to back of Cannon

Hammer
7/32
Mount a bell in the path of the Strike Hammer 5.5

Insert and bend 1/16" wire to suit 1/8

3
Ply
1.5

12 Gear

Strike Arm 15 Gear Snail

Cannon

Pivot Support

Shelf

Mounting Supports Mounting Supports

Cannon Pinion
Shelf Support

Shelf Support

Reduced to fit page

NOT Shown actual size

All other parts shown actual size

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DeltaCad DEMO
 19
NEW!!! For 3/4" Frame Variant
Glue this edge to Mounting Support
Drill 1/4" hole 1/2" deep
6 12
Glue Strike Pivot Here
Weight Cord Mount
on TOP of Shelf
3/32
2
Variant
Frame

Variant
1/4 Wood Dowel
6 Wind Gear Shelf
Top View of Shelf
3/4"
19
Thick
Front Frame Variant
1/2" Thick Cut Out
12 6 Back Frame feeds up through here
Drill 1/4" from below
for weight cord mount
(Snug Fit)
Top Bevel
Glue in Place
This Support Block gets glued
below the Shelf to the front
Down

of the Back Frame

13/64
5+ Support Block
Front Frame #2
Half Lap Joint

Glue #1 Support
Cut Out
Cut Out

Note direction of Wind Cord hole

Support Block

Glue Pivot Support Here

Block Here
Glue Together
Variant
#1

1/8
3 Glue H
ere
Down

Bevel

.50
12
Shelf Support
NOT half lap joints

Mounting Supports
Remove after cutting Half Lap

These two are NOT

Finished Shelf looks like this

Wind Cord Mount Bevel Down

Cut Out for 15 Gear clearance

(Not Actual Size)
Safety Handle

15 Gear
A

12 Gear
Mounting Supports

Shelf

Shelf Support
1/2" Thick

3/4" Thick Variant

19
12

Hourly Strike Option NEW!!!

Page 19 Variant
for Variant
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DeltaCad DEMO
 Instructions and Explanations for Simplicity
The cover page shows the overall location of the parts for the clock. This is a good page
to study and come back to if questions should arise.

Page 1B Shows the overall side view.

Page 2 shows a close-up of the mechanism and gives the names of all the wheels and
shows how they fit together. Not shown actual size.

Page 3 is the side view (not shown actual size). Note the location of the leather plug.
This plug puts pressure on the center wheel arbor so that the hands are able to move
properly, but also gives a little slip to the system so that the hands may be set by moving
the Intermediate Wheel.

Page 3 Variant. All Variant pages have lines around them and say “Variant”. The
Variant design has a single weight, key and wind gear set up that is different from the
double pulley design originally created for the Simplicity Clock. You get to choose
which design you want to build.

Page 4. Here’s where the full size pattern actually begins (all pieces shown are full size,
except as noted). Since you will be cutting up the rest of the pages, I recommend you
make a copy of all the rest of the pages so you’ll have something to refer back to while
building the clock.

Also, some copy machines make slightly eccentric wheels. It is best to use the originals
for building the clock and use the copies you make for reference. To check the accuracy
of your copy machine simply hold the original under the copy on a bright window and
see if they match.

Cut around the picture of the clock parts on each of these pages and spray the back of the
pattern with a spray adhesive like Craft Bond. Apply the pattern to the appropriate size
Baltic Birch Ply, and allow to dry. After applying the pattern to the appropriate stock,
avoid having to reposition the pattern as this may distort the drawing.

Before cutting out the pattern, do all the drilling of the holes. Brad Point bits work best,
however, whether I use either regular drills or Brad Points, I always take a sharp awl and
press the point into the exact center of each hole to be drilled. This allows the drill bit to
align more accurately. Also, if I have the option, I’ll first drill with a smaller Brad Point
bit, and then enlarge to the next regular drill size. For example, I do not have a 9/64
(3.5mm) Brad Point bit, but I do have an 1/8th inch (3mm), so I’ll first mark the point to
be drilled with an awl, drill it slowly and accurately with the 1/8 Brad Point, and then
finish up by re-drilling the 1/8th hole to the required size with a regular 9/64 bit.

Copyright 2006 Clayton Boyer I

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To properly cut out the wheels, pinions and parts of this pattern you’ll want to cut, or
sand to the line. “To the Line” means that the black line just barely disappears. There
should be no black line left around the gear’s teeth.

When threading the Allen Screw into the various parts, clamp the parts lightly in the jaws
of a vise, and wax the Allen Screw with paraffin. Screw the Allen screw in slightly, and
then back it out slightly, screw it in a little more, and back it out a little. When you feel
the screw binding, back it all the way out, re-wax it, and continue screwing it in, with the
same back and forth motion, until the screw just pokes its head into the center hole.

Putting the piece into a vise before threading in the Allen screw prevents the wood from
splitting.

The Quiet Click Winding System: This is a gravity driven system designed so there is no
loud clicking sound as the clock is wound. To operate properly the Clicks need to be able
to move freely between the Great Wheel and the Wind Pulley and so the Clicks should be
sanded just a little thinner than the ¼” (6mm) thickness of the Click Gear.

Whether you are making your clock from solid wood, or ply, I would recommend that the
Click Gear be made from the Baltic birch ply. A single tooth of this gear must sustain the
entire weight that is placed on the clockworks, and I’ve had too many solid wood Click
Gears strip their teeth and let their weight come crashing down. Anyway, this gear is
hidden and nobody will ever see it’s made of ply.

Do NOT sand the Click Gear any thinner, and be sure when you glue the Click Gear to
the Wind Pulley that it is facing in the correct direction

Page 5. The Wind Pulley is turned from 1.5” (38mm) stock. If, however, you don’t have
a lathe, you can cut three circles of 1/8” (3mm) ply, and sandwich between them two
circles of ¼” (6mm) ply, and come out with the same pulley configuration.

The pulley needs to be drilled two different ways; the 13/64” (5+mm) center hole, and the
second hole is drilled 3/32” (2mm) for the Weight Cord. The 3/32” (2mm) hole is drilled
from the back of the pulley through its center divider, but not through the front. Only the
hole in the center divider is used.

Once the wheels are drilled, cut out and sanded smooth, run the proper sized arbor rod
through the center of the wheel. Also slide on the supporting block, then glue and clamp
the support block, spacer or pinion into place.

I find cutting the metal parts goes much quicker by using a Dremmel tool with the metal
cut-off wheel attachment rather than a hack saw. But however you cut the pieces, be sure
that all of the burrs are removed and the ends sanded smooth. Polishing the ends of the
arbors, where they run in the wooden frame, helps decrease the friction throughout the
clock dramatically.

Copyright 2006 Clayton Boyer II

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I use Dico Premium Buffing Compound E5 – Emery. I spread this compound inside a
folded leather strap and then squeeze the leather strap around the end of the arbor that is
spinning in the drill press. Using a buffing compound is an optional process because the
same result can be had by just squeezing the end of the arbor between two pieces of wood
until the arbor is polished.

To cut all of the rods and tubes from this set of plans just lay them next to the pattern -
mark the length - and then cut the rod. No measuring! Sand the rods and tubes smooth
and free of burrs. The smoother and more polished the ends of the rods are the less
internal friction and wear will be created.

I also find that the metal parts slide into the wood holes much easier if I rub the end of the
metal rod on a bar of soap.

The Center wheel and the Support: Once these are drilled and cut out slide them onto the
appropriately sized and marked rod, and glue the pieces into place. See the Arbors and
Spacers page for the location of each part on the arbor rods.

Page 6 The Third Wheel and its pinion (from Page 5) and Connector: Glue these
together on their arbor rod as you did with the Center Wheel.

Page 7 The Escape Wheel - this is the most critical wheel of the whole mechanism. This
wheel and its pallets need to be cut perfectly, and still a little fiddling with it in the clock
may be needed to get it to run smoothly.

Because the Escape Wheel is the wheel that needs the most exacting cut-out, what I
usually do is cut away the waste of each tooth, and sand the tooth faces to the line, but
allow the black line around the circumference to remain. Then I mount the Escape wheel
onto a 5/32” (4mm) rod and mount the rod onto a piece of scrap that I can clamp to the
upright sander and yet still rotate the Escape wheel. Rotating the Escape Wheel against
the upright sander, until I reach the circumference line, gives me a wheel that is perfectly
round. One could use this same procedure with each of the wheels and pinions.

Page 8 The Dial Train: All of the parts you have made up to this point were for the
“Going Train”. The Going Train’s purpose is to get the Minute Hand to go around one
time per hour. Once that is accomplished, we need a 12:1 reduction to get the Hour hand
to go around twice a day. That’s the job of the Dial Train. In some other references you
will also see the Dial Train called the Motion Train – it’s the same thing.

This Dial Train mechanism is designed to allow you to set the hands by moving the
Intermediate Wheel. Setting the hands by moving the hands will throw the alignment of
the hands off. To set the hands to the correct time, do not move the hands – move the
Intermediate Wheel. The slippage of the Leather Plug in the Cannon Pinion, as it lightly
pushes on the Center Arbor, allows for this synchronous movement of the hands.

Copyright 2006 Clayton Boyer III

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Also, the Intermediate Wheel can be moved in either direction, clockwise, or
counterclockwise to set the hands. In some other references you will also see the
Intermediate Wheel called the Minute Wheel – it’s the same thing.

To set the hands, begin with both hands pointing exactly at the 12 o’clock position. Then
turn the Intermediate wheel and you’ll see both hands moving synchronously. The hands
can be moved backward or forward by turning the Intermediate wheel.

Before inserting the brass tube into the Cannon Pinion I screw in the Allen Screw until I
can see it protruding into the center hole. That way when I push the brass tube into the
hole the Allen Screw will stop the tube at the proper depth.

Page 10-12 The Frame. With all the frame parts cut and drilled, set the Shelf, upright,
on its back edge on a perfectly flat horizontal surface (on the variant, the shelf back edge
sits on the Mounting Support). You will be constructing the frame as if the perfectly flat
surface was the vertical wall. Push the Back Frame, Mounting Supports, Side Frame
Supports and Lower Frame Supports into place with glue and let dry, making sure
everything is perfectly square. The Lower Glue Block (#2) can also be glued into place
at this time. #1 and the Pendulum Pivot Rod are glued in place after the clock is upright.

Page 13 The Crutch assembly connects the Pallet Arbor to the Pendulum. The Crutch is
screwed to the Pallet Arbor. Screw the Allen Screw only lightly onto the Arbor,
however, because some adjustments will be necessary later.

Cut the Crutch Pin (page 9) and Pendulum Pins, and insert into their respective holes in
the Crutch and Pendulum.

The Intermediate Wheel Arbor is a tight fit into the Front Frame. All the other arbors
must be able to turn freely.

The Bob is made of three separate pieces that are sandwiched together. Cut out the Bob
Center as shown - glue on the Bob Back piece. Pour lead BB’s (shot from a gun
reloading store) or small lead pieces into the Cut Out areas. Then glue on the Bob Front
piece.

The bottom of the Pendulum Shaft gets attached to the Sliding Piece that has been cut out
of the Bob Center piece, and drilled as shown. However, before attaching the Pendulum
Shaft, mount the Slider upside down in a vise and screw in the #8-32 (4mm) Threaded
Rod that acts as the adjustment rod for the Bob.

The Weight. The internal friction of each individual clock mechanism will determine
how much weight you will need to run your clock. Test it out before using the
instructions on the page showing the recommended weight. The clock should run fine on
the recommended amount of weight, but each mechanism will be different.

Copyright 2006 Clayton Boyer IV

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Alternatively, you can buy a pre-made weight from Timesavers Inc. 1-800-552-1520 or
www.timesavers.com

To wind your finished clockworks ALWAYS first stop the pendulum. Stopping the
Pendulum and then lifting the weight gently and smoothly will prevent undo stress on
those tiny Escape Wheel teeth.

A word about Humidity…Wood moves.

Since it is a wooden clock movement, some movement in the wooden parts is to be

expected with changes in heat and humidity. Here in Hawaii, on those few days a year
we have very high humidity, some of my clocks just swell up and stop. I do nothing to
my clocks during those times. Eventually, as the days get less humid, the mechanisms
free themselves and allow me to restart the clocks.

Some people living in very dry areas of the country experience the opposite problem –
but the result is the same. For them, this occurs most frequently around the time when
their forced air heaters come on in the winter months.

I hope you have a lot of fun making this project, and I also hope you will drop me a line
and picture of your finished clock at [email protected] Aloha. Clayton

Materials List
Can of Spray Adhesive - like Craft Bond
3 – 12 x 24” ½” (300x600x12mm) Baltic Birch Ply for the Frame and Wheels
1 – 12 x 24” ¼” (300x600x6mm) Baltic Birch Ply
1 – 12 x 12” 1/8” (300x300x3mm) Baltic Birch Ply (only if you don’t have a lathe)
1 - ½” x ½” x 42” (12x12x1070mm) Stock for Pendulum Shaft
5 - # 8 (4mm) Flat Washer
3 - #8-32 x 3/16 (4x5mm) Allen Screws
1 - #8-32 x 1/8 (4x3mm) Allen Screw
2 – 2” (50mm) Wood Screws for Mounting Clock to Wall
22’ (6.7M) – “Squidding Line” or 50LB (23kg) Monofilament (See Page 5)
15” (380mm) - 1 ½” (38mm) Copper Pipe and Cap
10 pounds (4.5kg) of Lead for Weight and Bob
1 – 12” pieces of 1/16” (300x1.5mm) Stainless Steel Rod or 1/16” (1.5mm) Wire
2 – 12” pieces of 1/8” (300x3mm) Stainless Steel or Brass Rod
1 – 12” piece of 3/16” (300x5mm) Stainless Steel or Brass Rod
1 – 12” piece of 5/32” (300x4mm) Brass Tube
1 – 12” piece of 1/4” (300x6mm) Brass Tube
1 – 12” piece of 7/32” (300x5.5mm) Brass Tube
1 – #8-32 (300x4mm) Threaded Rod and Nut
1 – ¼” (6mm) Wood Dowel
1 – 3/8” (10mm) Wood Dowel

Copyright 2006 Clayton Boyer V

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