topaz

topaz argo
» Rigging Instructions

www.toppersailboats.com
 contents
» Introduction 1

» Manufacturers Details 1

» Maintenance 2

» Glossary 3-4

» Raising the Mast 5

» Attaching the Boom and Gnav 6

» Raising the Jib 7-8

» Rigging the Spinnaker Kit 9 - 11

» Rigging the Mainsail 12 - 13

» Reefing the Mainsail 13 - 14

» Rudder 14

introduction
These RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS have been compiled to
help you to rig your Topaz ARGO sailing dinghy. Please also
ensure that you refer to your TOPAZ OWNERS MANUAL.

The OWNERS MANUAL has been compiled to help you to

operate your craft with safety and enjoyment. It contains
details of the craft, the equipment supplied or fitted, it’s
systems and information on its operation and maintenance.
Please read it carefully and familiarise yourself with the craft
before using it.

If this is your first craft, or you are changing to a type of craft

you are not familiar with, for your own comfort and safety,
please ensure that you obtain handling and operating
experience before assuming command of the craft. Your
dealer or national sailing federation or yacht club will be
For further information, spares and
pleased to advise you of local sea schools, or competent
instructors.
accessories, please contact the
manufacturer:
PLEASE KEEP THE RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS AND THE OWNERS
MANUAL IN A SECURE PLACE AND HAND THEM OVER TO THE TOPPER INTERNATIONAL LTD,

NEW OWNER WHEN YOU SELL THE CRAFT. Kingsnorth Technology Park,
Wotton Road, Ashford, Kent TN23 6LN
Telephone +44 (0) 1233 629186
1 email [email protected]
 maintenance
The Topaz ARGO is designed to require very little maintenance, but there are some simple ways to keep your
boat in the best condition.

Rudder
Never launch your boat without checking that the retaining clip has clicked into place beneath the
upper transom fitting, as this will prevent the rudder from falling off.

Sails
After you have finished sailing, roll the mainsail loosely, this will extend its life better than folding.
Never let the sails flap unduly, this can be done by furling the jib as soon as possible after hoisting.
Although the battens protect the mainsail to a certain extent, do not leave the mainsail hoisted for
extended periods of time.

Raise and drop the spinnaker as smoothly as possible, as this will extend the life of the sail. Avoid
trawling the spinnaker through the water, this can damage the sail and get the spinnaker stuck
around the bow of the boat.

Remove the spinnaker from the chute after sailing; if the sail is left it can attract mice that damage
the sail.

Always dry the sail before folding and packing it away.

Always rinse the sails and the boat after sailing in salt water.
ALWAYS RELEASE JIB TENSION WHEN NOT SAILING

Foils
Any nicks or deep scratches in the rudder can be repaired using gelcoat filler, as the smallest
damage will affect the performance of the boat. Make sure that the rudder blade remains tight
between the stock when down. Any movement between the blade and the stock, or the stock and
the hull may cause steering problems.

Hull and fittings

Small dents can be repaired by gently warming the hull with a hot air blower (take care not to melt
the hull). For any more substantial repairs refer to Topper Sailboats.

Check the attachment of all fittings regularly. This is particularly important for the fittings that are
screwed onto fixings that are set in the hull. Keep all blocks, cleats and ropes clean and rinse them
after salt water exposure.

Always remove the bung to empty any water after sailing, and when not sailing leave the bung out to
prevent the buildup of pressure within the hull as the temperature fluctuates.

Ropes
Always replace any ropes that are showing any signs of wear immediately.

2
 glossary / useful terminology
hull
Nose: Front of the hull

Painter: Rope from the nose of the hull used for towing or tying the board to a jetty, buoy or trolley

Transom: Back of the hull

Fore: Forward

Aft: Rearward

Mast Step: Integral tube where the mast heel/foot of the mast locates

Rail: Upper/outermost edge of a hull

Port: Left side of the hull when looking forward

Starboard: Right side of the hull when looking forward

Leeward: Direction away from the wind

Windward: Direction from which the wind is coming

Gudgeon: Fitting on the transom used to hang the rudder

spars
Mast: Main vertical spar supporting the rig/sail

Mast Heel: Lower edge/foot of the mast

Boom: Spar at the bottom of the mainsail

Outhaul: Purchase system on the boom for tightening the lower edge/foot of the sail

Vang: Purchase system for tightening the rear/aft edge (leech) of the sail

Cunningham: Purchase system for tightening the forward edge/luff of the sail

Sheet: Rope for controlling the inward/outward position of the mainsail

foils

Daggerboard Blade found in the middle of the hull used to counteract leeward slippage

Rudder: Blade found at the transom used for steering

Pintle: The male part (pin) of the rudder hanging system

3
glossary / useful terminology (...)

sails
Mainsail: Sail aft/rearward of the mast (Larger of the two)
Jib: Sail forward of the mast (Smaller of the two)
Tack: Forward lower corner of a sail
Clew: Rear lower corner of a sail
Head: Upper corner of sail
Leach: Rear edge of the sail
Luff: Forward edge of the sail
Foot: Bottom edge of the sail
Batten: A thin stiffening strip in the sail to support the leach

4
 rigging instructions
raising the mast
1. Position the boat head to wind, away from power 1
lines and other overhead obstructions.

2. Lay the mast along the centre of the boat, having

fitted the spreaders as per the Selden/ Super Spars
instruction sheet.

3. Untape all lines from the base of the mast.

Attach the shroud adjusters to the shroud eyes each side, on 2

approximately the 5th hole down on the stern side.

Fix the base of the mast to the mast step on the cross beam 3
with the pin and ring from the mast step.

Pull the mast up using the forestay. To make it easier, 4

someone else can lift the top of the mast.

Having pulled the mast upright, secure the forestay around 5

the stainless steel chute mouth bar.

Ensure all halyards are clear and not twisted.

5
attaching the gnav & boom
Attach the boom onto the mast with the pin on the lower of 1
the two fittings. Remember to put the pin in from the top
and flip the pin end over.

1. Next attach the strut to the upper fitting on the mast. 2

Ensure the toggle is correctly orientated as per the
Selden/Super Spar info sheet.

2. Fix the gnav strut carriage on top of the boom, although

this should already be fixed for you.

Having fixed the boom and gnav to the mast you can thread 3
the gnav control line. This comes out from the boom at the
front, and then feeds through the swivel cleat on the mast.

TIP: You can tie a stopper knot in the end of the main halyard and
then attach this to the end of the boom, so that the boom is held
up while the rest of the rigging is completed.

Now thread the mainsheet. Starting from the centre cleat 4

on the hull (NB: ensure the ratchet clicks when the rope is
pulled in), go up to the rear block, and thread the line from
back to front. Then go to the pulley on the top of the centre
block, and thread it from back to front. Then go to the front
pulley on the boom, and thread it from front to back.

1. The mainsheet goes to the pulley on the Strop and 5

through the hole in the centre of the pulley.

2. Tie a stopper knot to prevent the line unthreading.

3. Tie a figure of eight knot in the loose end so that the

boom does not hit the shroud when sheeting out.

6
 raising the jib

Attach the foot of the jib to the furler at the front of the boat. 1
Ensure the furler is fully wound up.

TIP: Wrap some electrical tape around the furler.

This will protect the gennaker from the sharp split ring and help
to prevent rips in the sail.

Do the same for the head of the jib onto the furler on the jib 2
halyard. Again, wrap some tape around it.

NOTE: To ensure swivel movement is not restricted, avoid taping

across the swivel

Pull the jib halyard in order to raise the jib, and then cleat the 3
halyard off on the right side of the mast. In order to apply
the most rig tension, sweat the jib halyard as shown.

Once the rig tension has been applied,the forestay can be 4

moved back from the bar at the front and then tied off to the
mast.

Tie the jib sheets onto the eye on the clew of the jib. 5

7
raising the jib (...)
Furl the jib by pulling the thin line, so that it ends in this 6
position.

Cleat the jib furler off in this cleat underneath the crossbeam. 7

8
Now tie the lowers onto the fitting on the mast.

NOTE: do not tie the lowers tight, have around 5cm of slack in the
wire.

Run the jib sheets back to these cleats on the hull, and then 9
cleat them off.

The tail of the jib halyard can be stowed in the pocket on top
of the spinnaker chute.It is not advisable to leave the jib up
overnight, and always take the jib tension off when the boat
is not being sailed.

8
 rigging the spinnaker kit
Tie one end of the Spinnaker halyard around the front furler 1
bar.

Take the other free end of the halyard and take it through 2
this pulley on the front of the cross beam.

Take the free end of the halyard through this cleat; it is 3

underneath the spinnaker chute, and it may need to be
moved for the pulley to be exposed.

Take the halyard through this pulley that is mounted on top 4

of the crossbeam.

Take the halyard back through this pulley next to the 5

centreboard.

9
rigging the spinnaker kit (...)
Pass the halyard through this eyelet in the bottom of the 6
spinnaker chute.

Tie a ball to the end of the spinnaker halyard. 7

Pass the line up the chute, feeling for the ball inside, 8
until it reaches the opening at the front.

Tie the end of the halyard that you tied around the furler bar 9
at the beginning onto the HEAD of the spinnaker.

Tie the spinnaker sheets onto the CLEW of the spinnaker. 10

10
 rigging the spinnaker kit (...)
Then tie the spinnaker pole to the TACK of the spinnaker. 11

Temporarily remove the red ball from the spinnaker halyard. 12

Then pass the end of the spinnaker halyard through the
eyelet in the sail as shown.

Then re-attach red ball to spinnaker halyard on the other 13

side of the sail.

Tie the end of the halyard onto this white loop. 14

Pull on the end of the spinnaker halyard coming 15

from the end of the spinnaker chute within the
boat in order to pack the spinnaker into the chute.

11
rigging the mainsail
Tie the flotation panel to the top of the mainsail 1
by passing the white lines through the eyelets in
the sail and secure with a figure of eight knot.

Tie the free end of the main halyard to the eyelet 2

on the top of the mainsail.

Raise the sail by placing the bolt rope in the cut out 3
of the mast just above the boom, and then pulling
on the halyard.

NB: It may be easier to raise with two people, as one can pull the
halyard while the other can feed the luff of the sail into the mast.
Ensure that the boat is still head to wind before the sail is raised.

Cleat the main halyard in the cleat on the left of the mast, 4
in order to make sure that the sail is at the top of the mast.
This is done by holding the halyard just above the cleat and
then pulling away from the mast at 90 degrees. Then re-
cleat the halyard until the sail is at the top of the mast.

TIP: Check the halyard for excessive wear regularly, particularly

where the line goes over the masthead sheave. Wear can be
prevented by moving the knot at the head every so often by
adding additional overhand knots.

Insert the slug at the clew of the sail into the cut out in the 5
boom, and slide it along to the end of the boom.

12
 rigging the mainsail (...)
Pass the outhaul through the eyelet in the clew, and then 6
back to the end of the boom, where the end of the outhaul
should be cleated.

The outhaul can be tightened at the mast end of the boom.

Hook the downhaul onto the sail, ensuring that it is not 7

twisted before applying any tension.

reefing the mainsail

Pull on the red reefing line so that it comes out of the boom 1
some way.

Feed the reefing line through the eyelets in the leech 2

of the sail.

13
reefing the mainsail (...)
From the top eyelet, the reefing line comes back down to 3
the boom.

Tie a stopper knot in the end of the line, and then

slide the knot into the cut out in the boom.

Use a similar system, with the end of the reefing line at the 4
mast end of the boom, on the luff of the sail.

Tie the end of the reefing line onto the end of the boom so
that it is secure.

Release the main halyard from the cleat, and uncleat 5

the gnav, and then pull on the reefing line. The foot
of the sail should fold up so that the sail area is reduced.

Once the desired sail area is achieved, cleat the reefing

line and main halyard, and re-apply gnav tension.

rudder
When the Rudder is attached, ensure that it is fully engaged 1
on to the pintle and gudgeon so that the retaining clip is able
to spring out to hold the rudder in place.

14
topaz argo

TOPPER INTERNATIONAL LTD

Kingsnorth Technology Park
Wotton Road

topaz
Ashford
Kent TN23 6LN

topaz
United Kingdom

dinghy range T: +44(0) 01233 629186

E: [email protected]

Test sails available on request