Light Emitting Pegboard

Display Panel Kits

An open-source hardware+software project
designed by

Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories

M aking the World a Better Place,
One Evil M ad Scientist at a Time

Distributed by Evil Mad Science LLC

Support: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/
Kit version 1.1
Manual: Rev. B
Tour Mounting holes:
4 corners for panel mounting
Top center: Hang a nail
Top 1/4,3/4: hang a string

Printed circuit board:

The 25 Rows and 25 columns are
Overall size: 12” x 15” numbered along the edges, 0-24
(30.5 x 38.1 cm)

LED Field: Each location has room

for a 10 mm LED, although smaller
5 mm (T-1 3/4, “standard size”) and
3 mm LEDs will work just as well.

Transistors and resistors

along left edge of LED field.
(US Quarter for scale)

Big CPU: ATmega164,

an AVR microcontroller.
Bottom center and right:
Also: light sensor, switches, power management
buttons, places to hack in...

1
Detailed tour: Lower left corner of board
U1: ATmega164P microcontroller in a 40-pin socket.
Optional AVR-ISP interface: leave empty by default.
Pay attention to the orientation. Extra holes are
[Fits a 6-pin DIL header--
provided to access most pins directly.
you’ll need a programming interface too.]
(Can also work with ATmega324P or 644P.)

Normally empty

Light sensor and switch.

Default behavior: On all the time
with “Steady” setting. Turns off when
it sees sunlight or incandescent light
when on “Auto” setting.

Optional clock area: leave empty by default. “On” button actually resets microcontroller.
[Can use a 3-pin ceramic resonator or (Other functions are handled in software,
a (two-pin) low power crystal along with two caps.] can potentially be changed.) 2
 Detailed Tour: Lower center of board
Two horizontal rows: possible places to put resistors;
Usually all “RL” locations are filled and all “RJ” locations are left empty

Battery box will go here....

Normally
empty.

Four resistors
will end up
here.

Optional
power jack

3
What do you make of this?
Our standard assembly instructions, beginning on the
next page, will produce a static “pegboard” display, that will light
up LEDs in whichever locations you choose to install them,
with near-uniform illumination.

They will be driven in an energy-efficient multiplexed

arrangement and the infrared light sensor can be used to turn
on the display when it gets dark.

Reprogramming the “smart” display is possible, however note

that the LEDs are not individually addressable.

Hardware hackers may want to flip through the schematics

(pages 13-15) before going further to see if inspiration strikes. It is, for
example, potentially possible to reconfigure this display to produce
limited, simple animations-- with additional electronics and programming.
Many other hacks and mods are possible as well-- the circuit board was
actually designed with hacking in mind. Places have been left to put
certain extra components that you might want and holes have been
added to allow direct access to the microcontroller pins.

If you do wish to reprogram the display,

you will need to supply a 6-pin DIL header and an
AVR hardware programmer with a 6-pin ISP
interface. (We recommend the USBtinyISP by
Adafruit Industries.)

4
 Assembly: First steps (Lower left corner of printed circuit board)

1. Add resistors RA1, RA3, RA4

5.1 k resistors (Green-Brown-Red-Gold),
installed in 3 places.
Implied procedure for components like this:
• Bend the leads of a resistor as shown
• Place it in the circuit board, at its location
• Solder the two pins from the back side
• Clip off extra leads on back side.

2. Add resistors RA2, RB0-RB24

1.0 k resistor (Brown-Black-Red-Gold),
JP2, JP3 S1
installed in 26 places. RA1 - RA4

RB0-RB24 are located along the left side of the circuit board.
Note: Be careful to avoid making solder bridges between the pins.

3. Add wire jumpers JP2, JP3

Jumpers are Zero-ohm resistors (One black stripe),
installed in 2 places.

4. Add slider switch S1

Match the part to the white outline drawing on the circuit board.
Solder all five pins.

5
 Assembly: More stuff to solder C3
5. Install socket for U1
A 40-pin DIP socket.

Orientation matters. Match the half-moon shape

at one end of the socket to the one drawn on the
circuit board. Solder it in place. (Same for chip, later.)
U1
6. Install capacitor C3
1000 uF electrolytic cap

Orientation matters. The NEGATIVE side of the + -

capacitor is marked with a broad white stripe.
Solder it with this negative side towards “-” on the circuit board.
C5 S2 and S3
QA1

7. Install capacitor C5 BC
105Z

1 uF ceramic cap (Orientation: Either way.)

Capacitor 9. Install phototransistor QA1
C5
LTR-3208E, infrared sensor with dark lens

Orientation matters. Long lead goes in the square

hole. The flat face of the sensor lines up
8. Add tactile button switches S2 and S3 with the outline drawing.
Match the parts to the drawing on the circuit board.

Orientation: pins stick out on left and right sides,

not top and bottom. Phototransistor
QA1
Solder all four pins of each switch. (Flat
face)

6
 Assembly: Resistors & Transistors, oh my!
10. Add resistors RL0- RL25
Q0 - Q24, Along left side of board
75 ohm resistor (Violet-Green-Black-Gold),
installed in 26 places.

RL0-RL25 are in a wavy row at the bottom of

the LED field.

Note: RJ0-RJ25 should be left empty.

11. Add transistors Q0-Q24,

2N4401 NPN transistors,
installed in 25 places.
Orientation matters. Match the flat face of the
transistors to the drawing on the board.

Flat face

RL0 -RL25

7
 Assembly: Power supply details
(Lower right corner of printed circuit board)

Procedure depends on the type of

ac adapter (if any) that you are using:
S4
US/Canada International
Battery Only
Power supply Power supply
(4.5 V DC)
(4.5 V DC) (5 V DC)

Jumper JP1 Install Empty Empty

DP1
Power Jack J2 Empty Install Install J2
JP1
Power source Empty Install Install
switch S4

Diode DP1 Empty Use wire jumper Use Schottky

diode 12. (US/Canada 4.5 V power supply)
Can still run No. Yes Yes Install power jack J2, Switch S4 and
on battery (Just kidding!)
Install wire jumper (Zero-ohm resistor)
in location DP1.

Location JP1 is left empty.

12. (Battery only)

Install a wire jumper (Zero-ohm resistor)
in location JP1. 12. (International 5 V power supply)
Install power jack J2, Switch S4 and
J2, S4, and DP1 are left empty. Install Schottky diode in location DP1.

Location JP1 is left empty.

(Adding your own external power? Make sure it’s
well regulated, protected, and capable of at least 600 mA.)
8
Install Battery Box
13. Add battery box (Note: If you have an alternate power source, “Solder lug” at positive
Held in place with cable ties, wired up e.g., you plan to run from an AC adapter all the
terminal of battery box
time, you can skip this step without ill effect.)
with a pair of wire jumpers.

(Positive terminal)

Battery box goes here.

Pay attention to the orientation!

Attach to circuit board

with cable ties through
the double hole sets

“Solder lug” at negative

Add a zero-ohm jumper from
terminal of battery box
the solder lug to the
Note: when soldering to the two solder lugs, be
GND_IN pin on the board.
quick-- the plastic of the battery box can melt if
Then, repeat for the positive you aren’t careful.
terminal of the battery box,
hooking up to VCC_IN1. 9
 Assembly: Adding Chip & LEDs
14. Add microcontroller U1
The ATmega164P chip goes in the 40-pin socket from step 5.
Pay attention to the orientation!
LED Field
If necessary, bend the leads of the chip to straight up
and down before inserting the chip into the socket. From end of chip:
Do not bend them by hand; bend all pins on one side at a
time by pushing them against a hard flat surface.
NO
The chip goes into the socket with firm, even pressure.
YES

15. Add LEDs to the LED field.

The board accommodates up to 625 LEDs in standard sizes up to
Flat face
10 mm. 3 mm, 5 mm, and 8 mm LEDs will work just fine. Put
them where you like, or everywhere. Long lead
into
square hole
For standard types of LEDs, the long lead goes in the square hole (the one on the
left), and the flat face of the LED package matches the drawing on the circuit board.

It is recommended that only blue, green, white, and purple LEDs be used-- some
resistors may need to be adjusted if you wish to use other LED colors instead.
Mixing red/orange/yellow with blue/green/white types does not generally work well.
Long lead
For reference, each LED location is labeled DXXYY, where XX is the row number
and YY is the column number. If you do not fill all the holes and wish to blacken the
unused labels, a black permanent marker works well.

See additional notes on following page.

10
 LED placement tricks
Alternative build idea #1: put all the LEDs on the back side of Normal:
the circuit board. In this case, the long lead still goes in the Long lead into
square hole
square hole.

When the grid really won’t do, the

LEDs can go between grid locations!

1. 2. 3.

And so forth....

Bend out Bend down

For all variations:

Side of LED with long lead still goes to square hole.
Side with flat still goes to round hole.

11
 Wrapping it up!
Last step: Add the rubber feet
Attach one rubber foot in each corner on the back side of the
circuit board-- make sure that the circuit board lies flat on these
bumpers, not on wire leads.

These will help to avoid accidental short circuits, as well as

protect your wall if you hang it up by a hook or string.

An open-source project
The hardware and software designs used in this project are being
released under an open-source license. For more information,
please see:
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/peggy

The firmware is written in AVR-GCC, and we’d love to see what

you can do with it!

Got pictures?
If you have interesting pictures of things built using this kit or the
hardware or software designs, we’d love to see them in the
Evil Mad Science Auxiliary:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/evilmadscience/

12
Schematics: Page 1 of 3

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FIQRV;R $RWTT $RWTR $RWTS $RWT! $RWTU $RWTV $RWTW $RWTX $RWTY $RWTZ $RWRT $RWRR $RWRS $RWR! $RWRU $RWRV $RWRW $RWRX $RWRY $RWRZ $RWST $RWSR $RWSS $RWS! $RWSU
S

S
R6 R

S [RW
S?UUTR
!
<@RW
R

R
FIQRW;R $RXTT $RXTR $RXTS $RXT! $RXTU $RXTV $RXTW $RXTX $RXTY $RXTZ $RXRT $RXRR $RXRS $RXR! $RXRU $RXRV $RXRW $RXRX $RXRY $RXRZ $RXST $RXSR $RXSS $RXS! $RXSU
S

S
R6 R

S [RX
S?UUTR
!
<@RX
R

R
FIQRX;R $RYTT $RYTR $RYTS $RYT! $RYTU $RYTV $RYTW $RYTX $RYTY $RYTZ $RYRT $RYRR $RYRS $RYR! $RYRU $RYRV $RYRW $RYRX $RYRY $RYRZ $RYST $RYSR $RYSS $RYS! $RYSU
S

S
R6 R

S [RY
S?UUTR
!
<@RY
R

R
FIQRY;R $RZTT $RZTR $RZTS $RZT! $RZTU $RZTV $RZTW $RZTX $RZTY $RZTZ $RZRT $RZRR $RZRS $RZR! $RZRU $RZRV $RZRW $RZRX $RZRY $RZRZ $RZST $RZSR $RZSS $RZS! $RZSU
S

S
R6 R

S [RZ
S?UUTR
!
<@RZ
R

R
FIQRZ;R $STTT $STTR $STTS $STT! $STTU $STTV $STTW $STTX $STTY $STTZ $STRT $STRR $STRS $STR! $STRU $STRV $STRW $STRX $STRY $STRZ $STST $STSR $STSS $STS! $STSU
S

S
R6 R

S [ST
S?UUTR
!
<@ST
R

R
FIQST;R $SRTT $SRTR $SRTS $SRT! $SRTU $SRTV $SRTW $SRTX $SRTY $SRTZ $SRRT $SRRR $SRRS $SRR! $SRRU $SRRV $SRRW $SRRX $SRRY $SRRZ $SRST $SRSR $SRSS $SRS! $SRSU
S

S
R6 R

S [SR
S?UUTR
!
<@SR
R

R
FIQSR;R $SSTT $SSTR $SSTS $SST! $SSTU $SSTV $SSTW $SSTX $SSTY $SSTZ $SSRT $SSRR $SSRS $SSR! $SSRU $SSRV $SSRW $SSRX $SSRY $SSRZ $SSST $SSSR $SSSS $SSS! $SSSU
S

S
R6 R

S [SS
S?UUTR
!
<@SS
R

R
FIQSS;R $S!TT $S!TR $S!TS $S!T! $S!TU $S!TV $S!TW $S!TX $S!TY $S!TZ $S!RT $S!RR $S!RS $S!R! $S!RU $S!RV $S!RW $S!RX $S!RY $S!RZ $S!ST $S!SR $S!SS $S!S! $S!SU
S

S
R6 R

S [S!
S?UUTR
!
<@S!
R

R
FIQS!;R $SUTT $SUTR $SUTS $SUT! $SUTU $SUTV $SUTW $SUTX $SUTY $SUTZ $SURT $SURR $SURS $SUR! $SURU $SURV $SURW $SURX $SURY $SURZ $SUST $SUSR $SUSS $SUS! $SUSU
S

S
R6 R

S [SU
S?UUTR
!
<@SU
FIQSU;R

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B.C# ! 59 ! $<./?3@A;3 /&0%12234+35'678

15