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Basics of Pattern Making

Basics of Pattern Makin

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The development of a garment comprises of different process. Fit is the
most important factor leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a
garment. Fit must be designed into the original pattern through subtleties
in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate locations to
accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Good
customized fit is dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various
shapes and proportions of the individual customer. With the onset of the
Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the success
of ready-to-wear clothing.

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat

piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure .
Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production. A
sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the
design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin).

A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and
depth. With in this roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of
secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the pattern maker.
Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth
into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.

A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with

measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic
pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design
are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing.
It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement
and comfort (Shoben and Ward).

Methods of Pattern Making

Pattern making involves three methods-

 Drafting
 Draping
 Flat paper patternmaking

Drafting:

It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate

measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for
chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and
construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to
create basic, foundation or design patterns.

Draping:

It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form,

conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This
muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final pattern (Armstrong).
Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable
to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall
design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment
piece is cut and sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming
than flat pattern making.

Flat Pattern Making:

It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit
a person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern
designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for
movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five basic pattern pieces are
used for womens clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and
bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front
and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently womens styles
fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create
fashions.

A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations

to various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines are
marked on it. It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be
such that adjustments can be introduced easily. For a good pattern making,
accurate measurements are of utmost importance.

The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear

market because it is fast and accurate (Aldrich).

Pattern making in Today's World

Pattern making today has become an easy job with the use of the
computers. Now-a-days different softwares are available in the market to
meet the needs of the manufacturers. The different softwares used
are Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech , OptiTex etc. These softwares has made the
job of the Pattern master easier. They have made the process of pattern
making more economical and less time consuming.

Pattern-making softwares enables you to input your measurements and

draft out a pattern. These softwares draft patterns to fit your measurements
specifically, eliminating much fitting trial and error in the sewing room.
A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few steps by using these
softwares. An individual's measurements are collected from 3D body
scanner. The measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the
individual's body. The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a garment
surface in relation to the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is
defined, the application automatically unwraps and outputs a 2D flat pattern
in .dxf format.

References

 Aldrich, Winifred. 1997, Metric Pattern Cutting. Blackwell Science Ltd

U.K.
 Armstrong H.J, 2000, Pattern Making for Fashion Design, Harper & row
publishers, New York
 Cooklin, G.1994, Pattern Cutting for Womens Outerwear
 Hudson, P.B, 1980, The role of fit and Fashion on Apparel Quality,
Bobbin.
 Shoben, M.M and J.P. Ward, 1999, Pattern cutting and Making up, CBS
Publishers, New Delh

Cutting is separating of the garment into its components and in a general

form, it is the production process of separating (sectioning, curving, severing)
a spread into garment parts that are the precise size and shape of the pattern
pieces on a marker

ethods Of Fabric Cutting

There are mainly three types of fabric cutting:

Completely manual process: Hand-operated scissor is used here. It is an ancient

process that little used.
Manually operated powered knife: In this process, the power knives are
manually operated. This process is mostly used in the maximum garment industry.
The following cutting machines are used:

 Straight knife
 Band blade
 Round blade
 Die cutter
 Drill

Computerized technique: This is the latest technique. This technique is used in

the modern and large garment industry. The following cutting machines are used:

 Knife cutting
 Cutting by water jet
 Laser cutting
 Plasma torch cutting

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES -

DOMESTIC
Domestic sewing machines, as the name implies, are designed
for home use and are the most popular home sewing machine. .
While these machines certainly vary in quality and longevity,
they are generally not designed to last with everyday use. They
are generally light enough to be transportable and are designed
for multiple stitches and purposes.

1. Mechanical Treadle Sewing Machines

Mechanical sewing machines are the most basic of all machines
and could be treadle or hand-operated. They were designed to be
used before electrical power was accessible.

The mechanical machine is either operated with a handle and

turning wheel to drive the needle and make the stitches, or it
may be a treadle machine. The treadle machine is manual and
operated by working a treadle plate just above the floor. The
movement of the treadle and a rubber belt drives the machine
and the stitching needle.

You probably recognize some of these vintage-style machines.

They were often attached to their tables, and the machines were
made of metal and built to last. Mechanical machines only did a
straight stitch.

Types of Sewing Machines -

Mechanical

2. Electronic Sewing Machine Types

Electronic machines have many more options and the advantage
of being electronically operated. There are many brands of
electronic machines to choose from offering different stitches
and stitch lengths.
Electronic, mechanical types of sewing machines will straight
stitch, zigzag, and have some decorative stitches. There may
even be a buttonhole option. The functions are accessed by a
knob rather than an electrical computerized panel.

There are a lot of heavy duty sewing machines on the market,

like the Singer below, that are designed to sew heavier fabrics.

Singer Heavy
Duty (Amazon)

3. Mini And Portable Machines

Electronic machines would include mini portable machines. The
mini machine is not sturdy enough for vast quantities of
sewing. Although it is portable and easy to carry, it is best suited
to small projects and mending. Most of these machines are not
strong enough for larger projects and extended sewing.
Mini Sewing Machines (Amazon)

4. Computerized Or Automated Machines

Moving on up the scale of machines, computerized and fully
automated machines have many more functions and features.

The machine often has an LCD screen display, automatic needle

threading, and even embroidery stitches. There are different
tension controls and stitch lengths.

Computerized types of sewing machines will make buttonholes

and have built-in stitch programs. Although these machines are
more expensive, they are sturdy and long-lasting. Reputable
companies usually offer lessons and warranties on these higher-
ranking machines.
Singer Computerized Sewing Machine (Amazon)

5. Embroidery Machines
An embroidery machine is definitely an investment if you plan on
doing lots of embroidery.

The machine will have access to built-in designs and a memory

facility to store designs. The USB port on this machine enables
the embroiderer to access other designs and import them into
the memory of the machine. As you can imagine, embroidery
machines are on the higher end of the price range, and some can
be many thousands of dollars.
Brother Embroidery Machine (Amazon)

6. Quilting Machines
Quilting types of sewing machines are highly recommended if
you plan to make large quilts. This machine has a longer arm
allowing greater volumes of fabric to pass through the
machine. The quilting machine is able to sew through thicker
quantities of fabric. The feed of the machine ensures steady,
and even sewing as the fabrics are held in place.

Many brands, such as Janome, offer machines that are designed

for quilting and general sewing.
 Janome
Quilting Machine (Amazon)

7. Overlocking Or Serger Machines

The serger (or overlock machine) is a relatively new addition to
the sewing machine collection. It is the perfect machine for
sewing stretch knits and fleece for active sportswear. The
overlocker or serger may come with three or four threads. It has
the ability to sew, trim and oversew the edges of seams. The
serger can be used for neatening edges, and it creates a really
professional look.

The serger can also be used to create gentle gathers. Sergers

can be tricky to thread, so if it is in your budget, try to get one
that is self-threading.

Further Reading: How to Use a Serger

Singer Serger (Amazon)

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES -

INDUSTRIAL
Industrial machines are made to be durable and to tackle
multiple types of fabric, such as heavyweight fabrics, upholstery
fabrics, leather, rubber, plastic, and canvas. All sorts of projects
using tough materials are fair game for the industrial
machine. Some industrial machines have found their way into
home industries because they are very hardworking and durable
machines.
There are different types of industrial machines, most of which
sew one specialized function. This is different from a domestic
home-use machine which is designed for multiple purposes.

Industrial machines are made with metal bodies and interiors.

Because they are mechanical with few or no computerized parts,
industrial machines are long-lasting and able to sew for extended
periods of time. Many have a flat bed, meaning the sewing area
is sunk into a table.

As you can imagine, these specialized industrial types of sewing

machines are more expensive than domestic machines. There is
a good second-hand trade in industrial machines, as many hold
their value reasonably well. Juki and Singer make excellent
industrial sewing machines.

Industrial Machine (Amazon)

When purchasing industrial types of sewing machines, consider
that they are like driving a truck vs. driving a car. A bit more skill
is needed, but once you master the machine, you will be happy
with your purchase. I have owned an industrial straight stitch
machine and an industrial leather machine.

The one thing I remember from both of these machines apart

from their amazing performance is the noise. Industrial machines
are louder and go much faster. You will need to learn great
control over the foot pedal speed.

Many industrial sewing machines need to be inset or bolted to a

table with a connection to the foot pedal. This helps limit the
vibrations of the machine as well.

Here are some common types of industrial machines -

8. Cover Stitch Machine

This is a specialized industrial machine able to do hemming,
binding, topstitching, and add decorative effects.

9. Lock Stitch Machine

Creates a stitch similar to a backstitch. The stitch looks the
same on both sides of the fabric. The lock stitch is capable of
straight and zigzag stitches.

10. Chain Stitch Machine

Creates a chain stitch useful for stretch fabrics and for binding
and decorative effects.

11. Blind Stitch Machine

This machine makes an invisible hemstitch. It is fast and
efficient at this process.

12. Buttons And Buttonhole Machines

There are types of sewing machines programmed to sew buttons
using a lock stitch and an industrial buttonhole machine is
geared for several types of buttonholes.

13. Back Tack Machines

They specialize in sewing the little stitches you find on the top
edge of pockets, or on the loops for a belt and other areas that
need reinforcing.

14. Leather Machines

Industrial leather sewing machines have a walking foot to enable
them to glide over tough and sticky leather.

15. Zig-Zag Machines

This industrial type of sewing machine does zig-zag and is used
predominantly in bra and underwear production to attach elastic.

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES -

WHICH SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?
When it comes to what kind of sewing machine to buy, it
depends on the functions you will need, how often you plan to
sew, and of course, your budget. For the majority of beginner
sewers, you will be looking at either a cheaper computerized or
simple electronic machine.
I have a Janome electronic machine with knobs that turn
manually and no computerized functions. While it is a fairly basic
machine, it is a workhorse that has lasted for years and can sew
heavy materials and even leather.

The reality is that most people rarely use the decorative stitches
that come with upmarket machines.

Here is a table to help decide what is the best type of sewing

machine for you.

TYPE FUNCTION PURPOSE $

These are vintage so may be too old for everyday sewing.

Mechanical Straight sewing $-$$$
Mainly decorative or a collector's item.

Straight & Great for everyday sewing. Able to sew clothing, home
Electronic $-$$
decorative decor and all kinds of sewing projects.

Great for everyday sewing. Able to sew clothing, home

Computerized Multiple functions $$-$$$
decor and all kinds of sewing projects.

Embroidery Embroidery Designed to sew embroidery on fabric $$$

Portable/ Mending and small sewing projects. Not for every day
Straight sewing $
Mini sewing.

Regular sewing &

Quilting Large free arm for larger projects like quilts $$-$$$
quilting
Serger Serged seams Designed for sewing knits and finishing seams $$

Each type of industrial machine is designed for one $$$-$$

Industrial Multiple purposes
specialized purpose. $$