MANDARIAN COLLAR

For this,
We used the formula:
Given horizontal ¿ paper −Given horizontal ¿ box
 2
Given vertical ¿ paper−Given vertical ¿ box
 2

Then,
17
 Centeralize the sheet according to given measurement: 3
The size of horizontal length:29.6cm
29.6 cm−17 cm 12.6 cm
= 2 cm = 2 cm =6.3cm
The size of vertical length: 21 cm
21cm−3 cm
¿
2 cm
= 18 cm
2 cm
=9cm

 Draw the collar stand of 4cm,3cm,4cm on the length of

neckline.
 Add 1cm seam allowance around all edges of the collar
pattern.
 From the top of the collar stand,draw the collar shape
outward.The shape can be rounded,straight pointed
depanding on the desired style.
 Use a curve rulerto smooth the transition between the stand
of the collar for a seamless shape.
 Label the pattern.

ONE PIECE COLLAR

For this,
We used the formula:
Given horizontal ¿ paper −Given horizontal ¿ box
 2
Given vertical ¿ paper−Given vertical ¿ box
 2

Then,
17
 Centeralize the sheet according to given measurement:
4
The size of horizontal length:29.6cm
29.6 cm−17 cm 12.6 cm
= 2 cm = 2 cm =6.3cm
The size of vertical length: 21 cm
21cm−4 cm
¿
2 cm
= 17 cm
2 cm
=8.5cm
 Prepare the Base Pattern
 Determine the Collar Styled
•For a basic collar, determine the width of the collar (e.g., 2.5–4 cm).
•Mark this measurement perpendicular to the neckline at intervals along the neckline
curve.
 Extend a line outward from the neckline at a right angle to create the
collar stand.
 Typically, the height of a collar stand is around 2–3 cm.
 Shape the top edge of the stand using a slight curve to follow the
neckline.
 Draw the outer edge of the collar.
 Use a French curve for a smooth and rounded edge or a straight ruler
for a crisp edge.
 Add seam allowance (usually 1–1.5 cm) around the entire collar.
 Cut out the collar pattern and place it on the neckline of your base pattern to
ensure a proper fit.

TWO PIECE COLLAR

For this,
We used the formula:
Given horizontal ¿ paper −Given horizontal ¿ box
 2
Given vertical ¿ paper−Given vertical ¿ box
 2

Then,
 Centeralize the sheet according to given
17
measurement: 4
The size of horizontal length:29.6cm
29.6 cm−17 cm 12.6 cm
= 2 cm = 2 cm =6.3cm
The size of vertical length: 21 cm
21cm−4 cm
¿
2 cm
= 17 cm
2 cm
=8.5cm
 Measure the neckline circumference on the garment pattern or your body
measurement chart.
 Decide the height of the collar stand (e.g., 2-3 cm) and the collar fall (e.g., 4-5
cm).
 Draft the Collar Stand
 On pattern paper, draw a horizontal baseline equal to half the neckline
measurement (e.g., 18 cm if the neckline is 36 cm).
 At both ends of the baseline, draw vertical lines equal to the desired collar stand
height (e.g., 2.5 cm).
 Use a French curve to connect the top ends of the vertical lines, creating a slight
upward curve to match the neckline contour.
 Draw the collar length: Draw a horizontal line equal to the collar stand's top curve
length.
 Determine the collar width: At both ends, draw vertical lines to mark the desired
collar width (e.g., 5 cm for a standard collar).
 Shape the collar edge: Use a French curve or ruler to create the desired shape
for the collar tips or curve.
 Draw a gentle curve for the inner edge to align with the collar stand’s top curve.
 Add seam allowances: Add a 1 cm seam allowance around the collar pattern.
 PUFFED SLEEVE
For this,
 Centeralize the sheet according to given measurement: 6.6cm
•Trace the basic sleeve block onto pattern paper.
• Mark the grainline, front, and back notches for reference.
• Draw vertical lines from the sleeve cap to the hem, dividing the sleeve into
4 to 6 equal sections (more sections = more even puff).
• Number the sections for easy identification.
• Cut along the vertical lines, stopping just before the sleeve cap to keep it
intact.
• Tape the sections onto another piece of pattern paper, maintaining the
original sleeve cap shape.
• Smooth out the sleeve cap curve using a ruler or French curve to remove
any jagged edges.
• Add extra height to the sleeve cap (about 1–2 inches) if a more
pronounced puff is desired.
• Connect the hem points to create a smooth curve.
• Add seam allowance (usually 1/2 inch) around the entire sleeve.
• For a gathered hem, extend the hemline by 1–2 inches to create a casing
for elastic or to allow gathering with a stitch.
• Label the pattern with grainline, notches, and any instructions.
 FLARED SLEEVE
For this,
 Centeralize the sheet according to given
measurement:
3.7cm and one box of 6.4cm.
•Use these measurements to draft a standard sleeve pattern.
•Place your basic sleeve pattern onto pattern paper and trace it.
•Mark the grainline, cap height, and other key points.
•Determine how much flare you want (e.g., slight flare, bell-shaped, or extreme
flare).
•The amount of flare affects how wide and long the sleeve will become.
•Draw vertical lines from the sleeve cap (head) to the hem. Divide it into 4-8
equal sections, depending on the flare’s fullness.
•Cut along the vertical lines but leave the sleeve cap intact (do not cut all the way
through).
•Spread the sections apart evenly to create the flare. The wider the spread, the
greater the flare.
•Tape the spread sections onto a new piece of pattern paper.
•Use a curved ruler to draw a smooth, continuous hemline. Ensure the hem isn’t
jagged or uneven.
•Add seam allowances (typically 1.5 cm) to all edges of the new pattern.
•Label the pattern with details like sleeve type, grainline, and notches.
 HALF SLEEVE
For this,
We used the formula:
Given horizontal ¿ paper −Given horizontal ¿ box
 2
Given vertical ¿ paper−Given vertical ¿ box
 2

Then,
 Centeralize the sheet according to given
17
measurement: 3
The size of horizontal length:29.6cm

29.6 cm−17 cm 12.6 cm

= 2 cm = 2 cm =2cm
The size of vertical length: 21 cm
21cm−3 cm
¿
2 cm
= 18 cm
2 cm
=9cm
  Prepare the Sleeve Block
•Draw a vertical line (the sleeve centerline) the length of the half sleeve.
 Mark the Cap Height
 The cap height for a half-sleeve is calculated as 1/4 of the armhole circumference plus
1.5 cm.
 From the top of the vertical line, mark the cap height.
•At the cap height, draw a horizontal line for the bicep width. Divide the bicep circumference by
2 and mark it evenly on either side of the centerline.
 Connect the top point of the sleeve (at the centerline) to the ends of the bicep line with a
smooth curve.
•Use a French curve to shape the curve accurately.
•Measure the desired sleeve length along the vertical centerline.
•Draw a horizontal line at this point, marking half the sleeve opening circumference on
either side of the centerline.
•Draw smooth lines from the bicep line to the sleeve opening line on both sides.
•Add seam allowances (typically 1–1.5 cm) around the entire pattern.
•Cut along the outer edges of the sleeve pattern, including the seam allowance.

BASIC SLEEVE(full sleeve)

For this,
We used the formula:
Given horizontal ¿ paper −Given horizontal ¿ box
 2
Given vertical ¿ paper−Given vert ical ¿ box
 2

Then,
 Centeralize the sheet according to given
20
measurement: 10

The size of horizontal length:29.8cm

29.8 cm−20 cm 9.8 cm
= 2 cm = 2 cm =4.9cm
The size of vertical length: 21 cm
 21cm−10 cm
¿
2 cm
= 11cm
2 cm
=5.5cm
•Draw the length of the arm.
•The cap height is generally calculated as 1/4 of the armhole circumference plus 1.5 cm (or
adjust based on fitting needs).
•From the top of the vertical line, mark the cap height horizontally.
•At the cap height, draw a horizontal line for the bicep width. Divide the bicep circumference by
2 and mark half on each side of the centerline.
•Shape the sleeve cap by drawing a smooth curve.
•The curve should connect from the bicep line to the top point of the sleeve.
•Measure and mark the full sleeve length down the centerline from the shoulder point to the
wrist.
•Draw a horizontal line at the wrist level, marking half the wrist circumference on either side of
the centerline.
•Draw smooth lines from the bicep line to the wrist line on both sides.
•Use a French curve for a natural, tapered look.
•Add seam allowances (usually 1-1.5 cm) around the pattern and label the pattern.

BASIC SKIRT(A-Line skirt)

For this,
We used the formula:
Given horizontal ¿ paper −Given horizontal ¿ box
 2
Given vertical ¿ paper−Given vertical ¿ box
 2

Then,
 Centeralize the sheet according to given
20
measurement: 16.3
The size of horizontal length:29.6cm
29.6 cm−20 cm 9.6 cm
= 2 cm = 2 cm =4.8cm
The size of vertical length: 21 cm
 21cm−16.3 cm
¿
2 cm
= 4.7 cm
2 cm
=2.35cm
 . Draw the Basic Rectangle:
 On the pattern paper, draw a vertical rectangle.
 Width: Hip circumference ÷ 2 + 2 inches (for ease).
 Height: Desired skirt length.
 Divide the length into two sections:
 Waistline: Top edge of the rectangle.
 Hip line: Measure down from the waistline (usually 7–9 inches depending on
height) and draw a horizontal line.
 From the top corners of the rectangle, measure inward:
 (Waist circumference ÷ 4) + 1 inch (for seam allowance).
 Connect these points to the hip line using a curved line for the side seam.
 Extend the bottom hem outwards by 1–3 inches (or more, depending on the flare
you want) from each side seam.
 If the skirt includes darts, measure about 4 inches from the center front/back
towards the side seams and mark the dart position.
 Make darts about 1 inch wide and 4–6 inches long to shape the waistline.

BODICE BLOCK
For this,
We used the formula:
Given horizontal ¿ paper −Given horizontal ¿ box
 2
Given vertical ¿ paper−Given vertical ¿ box
 2

Then,
 Centeralize the sheet according to given
16.3
measurement: 14.8
The size of horizontal length:29.6cm
29.6 cm−16.3 cm 13.3 cm
= 2 cm = 2 cm =6.7cm
The size of vertical length: 21 cm
 21cm−14.8 cm
¿
2 cm
= 6.2 cm
2c m
=3.1

Draft the Front Bodice Block

 Draw a vertical line equal to the front length (shoulder to waist).
 Mark the neckline depth (typically 6-10 cm) from the top.
 Use the same neckline width as the back.
 Draw a slanted shoulder line as done for the back.
 Measure down the armhole depth from the top and draw a horizontal line.
 From the top of the centerline, measure down to the bust point.
 Mark the apex distance (bust point to bust point).
 Draw a dart extending from the bust point to the waist. (Dart width is 2-3 cm).
 Draw a smooth curve from the shoulder to the armhole depth, passing near the bust point.
 Add waist shaping similar to the back.
 Add 1-1.5 cm seam allowance around all edges.
 Add 2-3 cm at the hem for adjustmen.

Draft the Back Bodice Block

 Draw a vertical line equal to the length of the back (nape to waist). This is the center back.
 From the top of the centerline, mark down 2-3 cm for the back neckline depth.
 Draw the neckline width (1/5 of bust circumference) as a horizontal line.
 Measure 1-2 cm down from the neckline width on the side.
 Draw a slanted shoulder line to the centerline.
 From the top of the centerline, measure down the armhole depth and draw a horizontal line.
 Measure from the top of the centerline to the waist and draw a horizontal line.
 Draw a smooth curve from the
PLEATED SKIRT
shoulder to the armhole depth.
 Add slight shaping at the waist for
For this, as fit

We used the formula:

Given horizontal ¿ paper −Given horizontal ¿ box
 2
Given vertical ¿ paper−Given vertical ¿ box
 2

Then,
 Centeralize the sheet according to given
20
measurement: 16.3
The size of horizontal length:29.6cm
29.6 cm−20 cm 9.6 cm
= 2 cm = 2 cm =4.8cm
 The size of vertical length: 21 cm
21cm−16.3 cm
¿
2 cm
= 4.7 cm
2 cm
=2.35

 . Take Measurements:
 Waist circumference: Measure around your waist where you want the
skirt to sit.
 Desired length: Measure from your waist to where you want the skirt
to end.
 Draft the Pattern:
 Calculate fabric width:
 For knife pleats, multiply your waist measurement by 3.
 For box pleats, multiply by 2.5 (more fabric equals deeper pleats).
 Add seam allowance (about 1 inch on each side).
 Add 2 inches to the length for hemming and waistband.

CUFF
For this,
We used the formula:
Given horizontal ¿ paper −Given horizontal ¿ box
 2
Given vertical ¿ paper−Given vertical si ze of box
 2

Then,
22
 Centeralize the sheet according to given measurement: 8
The size of horizontal length:29.6cm
29.6 cm−22 cm 7.6 cm
= 2 cm = 2 cm =3.8cm
 The size of vertical length : 21 cm
21cm−8 cm
¿
2 cm
= 13 cm
2 cm
=6.5cm

 Determine the desired width of the cuff. Typically, cuffs are between 1
to 3 inches (2.5 to 7.5 cm) wide.
 Length: Sleeve opening circumference + seam allowance (usually 1/4
to 1/2 inch or 0.6 to 1.2 cm on each side).
 Width: Desired cuff width × 2 (since it folds in half) + seam allowance.
 Draw a line across the middle of the rectangle (lengthwise). This will
be the fold line.
 Add Notches for Alignment
 Add small notches or marks on the edges of the cuff pattern to align it
with the sleeve during sewing. Place these at the center and ends of
the cuff.