Introduction to

Natural
Cosmetics

PhD. Juste Baranauskaite-Ortasoz

Glossary of Terms (1)
! Cosmetics: The Federal Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act
(FD&C Act) defines cosmetics as "articles intended
to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on,
introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human
body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance."
! Included in this definition are products such as skin
moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes,
eye and facial makeup preparations, shampoos,
permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, and
deodorants, as well as any material intended for
use as a component of a cosmetic product.
Glossary of Terms (2)
! Cosmetic science: An interdisciplinary
science involved with developing,
formulating, and producing cosmetics and
personal care products.
! Claim: A statement referring to the
expected effect of a product found on
product labels and in any promotional
materials.
Glossary of Terms (3)
! Cosmeceutical: This term is used for
multifunctional products that can be
purchased as cosmetics and that are
advertised to offer additional skin benefits
over simple cosmetics.
Glossary of Terms (4)
! FDA: Food and Drug Administration; in the
United States, cosmetics and drugs are
regulated by the FDA, which is an agency of
the US Department of Health and Human
Services.
! FD&C Act: Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act; the
FDA regulates cosmetics, foods, and drugs
under the authority of the Food, Drug and
Cosmetic Act.
Glossary of Terms (5)
! Cruelty-free: A term used on cosmetic labels
to indicate that no animals were involved in
product testing. This term does not have an
official FDA definition, and its use is not
regulated by the FDA.
! Dietary supplement: A product that is
intended to supplement the body with
vitamins, minerals, herbs, and other
ingredients, which may not be consumed in a
sufficient amount.
Glossary of Terms (5)
! Hypoallergenic: A term used on cosmetic
labels to indicate that the product is
unlikely to cause allergic reactions. This
term does not have an official FDA
definition, and its use is not regulated by
the FDA.
Glossary of Terms (6)
! Organic: A term often used on cosmetic labels
to indicate the presence of naturally derived
ingredients. This term does not have an official
FDA definition.
! Personal care product: A term often used for
products that are used to clean the body, hair,
and teeth, for example, a body wash,
shampoo, and toothpaste, respectively.
! Toiletries: A synonym for personal care
products.
Cosmetics
! The word cosmetic was derived from the
Greek word ‘’kosmtikos’’ meaning having
the power, arrange, skill in decorating.
! FDA defines cosmetics as ‘’intended to
applied to human body for cleaning,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or
altering the appearance without affecting
the body’s structure of functions’’.
A Brief History (1)
! Natural and organic cosmetics were used
in ancient times;
! Many religious rituals insist on use of
various scents or essences and natural
colors from plant extracts;
A Brief History (2)
! These traditions from ancient times are proof of
a very resourceful peoples of various cultures
who knew the usefulness of natural cosmetic
ingredients;
! The Egyptians during Queen Cleopatra’s time
were experts in natural and organic makeup
products;
! Most of these products had an antiseptic,
therapeutic and medical value to them, as
well.
A Brief History (3)
! They knew the usefulness of milk baths for
beautiful and healthy skin;
! They used oils for hair;
! The therapeutic massages also helped
retain the color;
! Henna in various stages and colors were
used to give hair a glow, as well as to
tattoo designs on the body;
A Brief History (4)
! Tattoos were popular especially on the
hands, nails and feet;
! Scents were developed for personal
hygiene as well as religious rituals;
! Most of these scents acted as an
antiseptic, as well as an insect repellent.
Kohl Black Eyes (1)

! Eye makeup is probably the most well

known of the Egyptian cosmetics.
! Both men and women used eye makeup.
! Although cosmetics in ancient Egypt were
certainly used for beautifying, eye
makeup served other purposes as well.
!It had spiritual and medicinal
connotations.
Kohl Black Eyes (2)
! The popular colors were GREEN and BLACK. Green
was originally made from malachite, an oxide
copper. In early times it was applied from the
eyebrow, to the base of the nose. Later, green eye
paint was used for the brows and corners of the eyes,
and eventually the green was replaced with black.
! This was kohl, usually made of sulphide of lead called
galena.
! Putting lead on your face doesn’t really seem good
idea nowadays of course, but Egyptians didn’t realize
that lead was poisonous.
Egyptian Cosmetics (1)
! The early use of cosmetics by the ancient Egyptians
seems to have been associated with religious
ceremony;
! It has been suggested that scented oil may have
been used to clean and soften the skin round
about 10,000 BC, perhaps by burning resins to
make incense;
! Egyptian believed that everything had spiritual
meaning application (perfumes made the body
function perfectly etc);
! Cedar oil was the most scared of oils and the main
one used in mummification.
 Egyptian Cosmetics (2)
! Myrrh. Egyptians used myrrh in facial care balms
in order to maintain a youthful complexion.
Commiphora mukul (myrrh) is a tree resin proven
to fill wrinkles from within. It aids in tissue repair,
heals cracked skin and helps heal wounds.

! Shea butter was appreciated for its anti-aging

properties. It is a fatty substance obtained from
the nuts of the shea tree.
Egyptian Cosmetics (3)
! Avocado oil was used for its moisturizing, anti-
wrinkle and revitalizing properties. Rich in
omega fatty acids 6 and 9 as well as proteins,
minerals and vitamins (A, B, C, D, E, H, K and
PP), it is ideal for nourishing skin care.
! Red Ochre Egyptian women often
used this natural pigment as lipstick
and cheek stain. The ochre was
ground finely and mixed with water
then applied with a brush to the lips
and face.
Egyptian Cosmetics (4)
! Aloe vera was considered to be a
moisturizer and skin smoother in ancient
Egypt. It is anti-aging, anti-inflammatory,
and antibacterial as it firms, tones,
moisturizes, encourages water retention
and heals. Aloe fosters and revitalizes skin's
elasticity working directly on collagen
fibers.
Egyptian Cosmetics (5)
! Clayface masks were utilized by wealthy
Egyptian citizens to maintain their beauty.
History records that Cleopatra often
applied a dead sea mud face mask to
clean her skin. It is rich in minerals silicium,
magnesium, calcium, zinc and copper.
Egyptian Cosmetics (6)
! Rose water was adored by Cleopatra not
just for its fragrance but its astringent
properties. Research suggests that its
primary use in ancient Egypt was as
cleanser and toner considering its ability to
remove skin debris and pollutants while
tightening the skin.
Egyptian Cosmetics (7)
! Almonds were used by the Egyptians thousands of
years ago. Sweet almond oil is anti-aging, anti-
wrinkle, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, smoothing
and softening and supportive of circulation.

! The Egyptians used apricot. Apricot kernel oil is rich

with vitamin A, an antioxidant that plays a critical role
in healthy skin and cell growth and the natural
slowing of aging. It nourishes, helps to hydrate, soften
and revitalize the skin and is particularly
recommended for mature, dry or sensitive skin and
skin lacking tone.
Cosmeceuticals (1)
! When the term “cosmeceutical” was introduced in
the 20th century, it was used for prescription-only
products that addressed appearance issues, such
as acne.
! Today, this term is mainly used for multifunctional
products that can be purchased as cosmetics and
that are advertised to offer additional skin benefits
over simple cosmetics.
! The term itself sounds like the combination of the
terms “cosmetics” and “pharmaceuticals” (i.e.,
drugs), which catches the consumers’ interest.
Cosmeceuticals (2)
! Cosmeceuticals typically contain levels of
active ingredients including phytochemicals.
! Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are topically
applied, but contain ingredients that influence
the biological function of the skin.
! Cosmeceutical products are intended to
improve appearance from a functional
standpoint whereas Cosmetics are used JUST
to color and adorn the body in a stylish
fashion, leaving the real problem
unaddressed.
 Cosmeceuticals (3)
! Cosmeceuticals are generally advertised to
contain bioactive ingredients that, although are
not drugs, have visible and measurable short-
term and long-term effects on the skin, such as
improvement of fine lines.
! Examples for bioactive ingredients include
vitamins, antioxidants, proteins, anti-
inflammatory agents, and many others.
Although it is a frequently used word by skin
care professionals and physicians, the term is not
recognized by the FDA.
Cosmeceuticals (4)
! The FDA states “a product can be a drug, a
cosmetic, or a combination of both; therefore,
the term cosmeceutical has no meaning under
the law.”
! Japan has a specific category of products that
are in between cosmetics and drugs (called
quasi-drugs).
! In the US, there is currently no such category.
These products represent a gray zone between
cosmetics and drugs as many of them are sold
as cosmetics; they may have drug-like effects
on the applied surfaces.
Cosmeceuticals (5)
! A number of today’s anti-wrinkle formulations
are advertised as cosmeceuticals and sold as
cosmetics.
! Cosmeceuticals are currently defined by the
claims made about their intended use and
ingredients they contain.
! A product that “eliminates wrinkles” is a drug,
while a product that “minimizes the
appearance of wrinkles” is a cosmetic, even
though they both may contain the same
ingredients.
Herbal cosmetics (1)
! Herbal cosmetics is defined as the beauty
products, which posses desirable
physiological activities, such as a skin
healing, smoothening, appearance,
enhancing and conditioning properties
with the help of herbal ingredients.
Herbal cosmetics (2)
! Herbal Cosmetics, referred as Products,
are formulated, using various permissible
cosmetic ingredients to form the base in
which one or more herbal ingredients are
used to provide defined cosmetic benefits
only, shall be called as “Herbal
Cosmetics”.
Herbal cosmetics (3)
! The demand of herbal medicines is
increasing rapidly due to their skin
friendliness and lack of side effects.
! The best thing of the herbal cosmetics is
that it is purely made by the herbs and
shrubs.
Natural products (1)

! Natural
products form a large and diverse
group of compounds derived from sources
encompassing the plant and animal
kingdoms examples of which include
among others, insects, marine algae and
microbes.
Natural products (2)
! Commonly used ingredients comprise
herbs, minerals, vitamins, antioxidants,
essential oils, enzymes and hormones that
have become increasingly more popular
in cosmetic and personal care products
due to the increasing number of reports
concerning the potential harmful effects of
some synthetic ingredients on the human
body.
Natural products (3)
! Stem cells are another natural source that
is gaining enhanced popularity in the
cosmetic field.
! Stem cells carry inherent implausible
capabilities for applications in skin care for
both dermaceuticals and cosmeceuticals.
Organic Products (1)
! The term “organic” is not defined in any of
the FDA’s laws or regulations.
! However, the term is regulated by the
Agricultural Marketing Service of the US
Department of Agriculture (USDA) as it
applies to agricultural products through its
National Organic Program (NOP)
regulation.
Organic Products (2)
! In addition to agricultural products
(organic foods and beverages), the USDA
also certifies cosmetics and personal care
products if they contain or are made of
agricultural ingredients and can meet the
USDA/NOP organic production, handling,
processing, and labeling standards.
Organic Products (3)
! The USDA has four categories of
ingredients/ products based on the
amount of organic ingredients in a
product and other factors.
! The categories are the following: 100%
organic, organic, made with more than
70% organic ingredients, and made with
less than 70% organic ingredients.
 Organic Products (3)
! Products in order to be labeled “100% organic”
must contain only organically produced
ingredients. These products can display the USDA
organic seal.
! Products in the “organic” category must contain
at least 95% organically produced ingredients. The
regulation has requirements for the remaining 5%
as well. These products can also display the USDA
organic seal.
Organic Products (4)
! Productsin the “made with more than 70%
organic ingredients” contain at least 70%
organic ingredients. They can be labeled
“made with organic ingredients.” These
products can list up to three of the organic
ingredients on the principal display panel.
The products may not display the USDA
organic seal.
Organic Products (5)
! Products in the last category cannot use
the term “organic” anywhere on the
principal display panel.
! They may identify specific ingredients that
are USDA certified on the information
panel. These products may not display the
USDA organic seal.
Nutraceuticals (1)
! There is a distinct category of products, known as
dietary supplements or nutraceuticals, that are
often thought to be cosmetics by consumers
based on the claims heard on TV and seen on the
Internet and printed media (i.e., “beauty from the
inside out” and “beauty from within”).
! These products often claim to make the hair, skin,
and nails look healthier, shinier, and stronger.
Although they may be believed to be cosmetics,
dietary supplements represent a specific category
separate from foods, drugs, and cosmetics.
Hypoallergenic Products (1)
! Hypoallergenic cosmetics are products claimed to
produce fewer allergic reactions than other non-
hypoallergenic cosmetic products. Consumers with
hypersensitive skin and even those with normal skin
may be led to believe that these products will be
gentler to their skin than non-hypoallergenic
cosmetics.
! However, it should be noted that there is no federal
standard or definition for the use of the term
“hypoallergenic.” The term means whatever the
particular company or consumers want it to mean.
Hypoallergenic Products (2)
! Manufacturers of hypoallergenic cosmetics are not
required to submit data and test results to the FDA
to substantiate their hypoallergenicity claims.
! The term usually refers to products that do not
contain ingredients known to cause allergic
reactions, such as fragrances. However, as the use
of the term is not regulated, it is recommended
that consumers with sensitive skin check the list of
ingredients on cosmetic labels and see whether
there are any ingredients in the product that may
cause problems to them.
Cruelty-Free Products (1)
! “Cruelty-free” or “Not tested on animals”
claims can often be found on labels or
advertisements.
! In the EU, testing of finished products and
ingredients on animals has already been
prohibited (it is referred to as the testing
ban).
Cruelty-Free Products (2)
! In the US, the FD&C Act does not specifically require
the use of animals in testing cosmetics for safety.
! The agency advises cosmetic manufacturers to
employ whatever testing is appropriate and effective
for substantiating the safety of their products.
! It remains the responsibility of the manufacturer to
substantiate the safety of both ingredients and finished
cosmetic products prior to marketing.
! Alternative methods to replace animal experiments,
such as ex vivo studies (i.e., studies using tissues from
an organism in an external artificial environment),
have been developed in the past decade.
Preservative-Free Products (1)
!Preservatives protect cosmetic
formulations from microbiological
contamination, for example, overgrowth
of molds, yeast and bacteria in lotions.
! As the majority of cosmetic formulations
c o n t a i n w a t e r, p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t
bacteria, molds, and yeast is essential.
Preservative-Free Products (2)
! A “preservative-free” claim is questionable most of
the time.
! We can rarely find products that have an
acceptable shelf life without any preservatives.
! Other product types that can claim to be
“preservative-free” include formulations containing a
higher percentage of ethanol, which is widely known
to have an antimicrobial activity.
! Certain products have a specific pH value that does
not favor the growth of microorganisms.
! There are also special types of packaging materials,
such as airtight packaging, which ensures the
absence of organisms.
Preservatives (1)
! Water-based cosmetic products provide a
perfect environment for microbial growth,
and the products’ additional components
can serve as nutrients for these
microorganisms.
! It should be kept in mind that a
contaminated product (which may show no
visible signs of contamination) is much more
dangerous for users than preservatives.
 Preservatives (2)
! Itshould be noted that one of the most widely
and most frequently used preservatives are
called the parabens.
! These ingredients are very effective even in very
low concentration;
! they can cause allergic reactions in sensitive
consumers.
Preservatives (3)
! They were linked to breast cancer and
endocrine disruption. Although no study has
confirmed the potential risks of using parabens
on human health, the claims that they can
cause breast cancer and endocrine disruption
have been widely spread.
! As many consumers are afraid of using products
containing parabens, many formulators have
substituted parabens with other types of
preservatives to ensure product longevity.
!
Preservatives (4)
! They usually also claim their products to be
“paraben-free.” It does not mean that it does
not contain any sort of preservatives.
! There are a number of cosmetic ingredients
that have a primary effect, such as skin
conditioning, and have a limited antimicrobial
property as well. In such cases, the ingredient
added for its conditioning activity will also
prevent microbial contamination in the
product to a certain extent.
Preservatives (5)
! These types of preservatives are usually
called “non preservative preservatives” as
their primary function is not the prevention
of contamination. Their efficacy, however,
may be not as good as that of parabens;
formulations often have to use a higher
amount of these ingredients.
“Dermatologist Recommended "products
! The claim “dermatologist recommended” is
commonly used on cosmetic products.
! It may lead consumers to believe that a
medical panel of dermatologists has
evaluated the product quality and
recommends it based on proven results.
! The truth is that there is no governing body in
the US requiring cosmetic companies to show
data on whether a dermatologist, a few, or a
large number of them tested and recommend
a cosmetic product.
“Clinically Proven” Claims (1)
! The claim “clinically proven” is scientific
and powerful in the consumers’ mind. Since
claims made about cosmetic products must
be truthful and proven usually there is a
science behind such claims, and
companies perform tests to back up their
claims.
! It should be noted that clinical testing is not
required for cosmetic products that do not
have drug claims.
“Patented Formula” Claims
! Consumers believe that a product that has
been patented must be more serious and
scientific; it works better than other products.
! The truth is that patenting a product is often
related to the technology of how the product
is manufactured and not the actual effect of
the product.
! It does not necessarily mean that the product
is more effective or has a longer performance.
“pH Balanced” Claims
! Companies that make “pH balanced” claims try to
imply some level of superiority over products that
do not make this claim.
! They want consumers to believe that the products
will be less irritating and will work better.
! The product is formulated in a pH range that is
compatible with the skin, hair, underarms, or other
application surfaces.
! A consumer will never notice a difference between
a product that is “pH balanced” and one that is just
normally formulated.