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 Rick Steves
SNAPSHOT
Sevilla, Granada & Andalucía
CONTENTS
Introduction
Sevilla
Granada
Córdoba
Andalucía’s White Hill Towns
Arcos de la Frontera
Ronda
Zahara & Grazalema
Jerez de la Frontera
Near the Hill Towns
Spain’s South Coast
Nerja
Frigiliana
Coastal Towns
Gibraltar
Tarifa
Morocco
 Tangier
Morocco Beyond Tangier
Practicalities
Money
Staying Connected
Sleeping
Eating
Transportation
Helpful Hints
Resources from Rick Steves
Additional Resources
How Was Your Trip?
Spanish Survival Phrases
Index
Post-Pandemic Travels: Expect a Warm Welcome…
and a Few Changes
Research for this guidebook was limited by the COVID-19
outbreak, and the long-term impact of the crisis on our
recommended destinations is unclear. Some details in this book
will change for post-pandemic travelers. Now more than ever, it’s
smart to reconfirm specifics as you plan and travel. As always, you
can find major updates at RickSteves.com/update.
INTRODUCTION
This Snapshot guide, excerpted from my guidebook Rick Steves
Spain, introduces you to southern Spain’s two top cities—Sevilla and
Granada—and the surrounding Spanish heartland. When Americans
think of Spain, they often picture this region, with its massive
cathedrals, Moorish palaces, vibrant folk life, whitewashed villages,
bright sunshine, and captivating rat-a-tat-tat of flamenco.
Sevilla is the soulful cultural heart of southern Spain, with an
atmospheric old quarter and riveting flamenco shows. Granada,
formerly the Moorish capital, is home to the magnificent Alhambra
palace. Córdoba features Spain’s top surviving Moorish mosque, the
Mezquita. Make time to delve into Andalucía’s sleepy, whitewashed
hill towns: Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda, and Grazalema. Spain’s
south coast, the Costa del Sol, is a palm-tree jungle of beach resorts
and concrete, but has some appealing destinations—Nerja, Tarifa,
and Gibraltar—beyond the traffic jams. And since it’s so easy,
consider an eye-opening side-trip to another continent by hopping
the ferry to Tangier, the revitalized gateway to Morocco (and to
Africa).
To help you have the best trip possible, I’ve included the following
topics in this book:
 • Planning Your Time, with advice on how to make the most of
your limited time
• Orientation, including tourist information offices (abbreviated
as TI), tips on public transportation, local tour options, and helpful
hints
• Sights with ratings and strategies for meaningful and efficient
visits
• Sleeping and Eating, with good-value recommendations in
every price range
• Connections, with tips on trains, buses, and driving
Practicalities, near the end of this book, has information on
money, staying connected, hotel reservations, transportation, and
other helpful hints, plus Spanish survival phrases.
To travel smartly, read this little book in its entirety before you go.
It’s my hope that this guide will make your trip more meaningful and
rewarding. Traveling like a temporary local, you’ll get the absolute
most out of every mile, minute, and dollar.

Buen viaje! Happy travels!

SEVILLA
Flamboyant Sevilla (seh-VEE-yah) thrums with flamenco music,
sizzles in the summer heat, and pulses with passion. It’s a place
where bullfighting is still politically correct and little girls still dream
of being flamenco dancers. While Granada has the great Alhambra
and Córdoba has the remarkable Mezquita, Sevilla has soul. As the
capital of Andalucía, Sevilla offers a sampler of every Spanish icon,
from sherry to matadors to Moorish heritage to flower-draped
whitewashed lanes. It’s a wonderful-to-be-alive-in kind of place.
 As the gateway to the New World in the 1500s, Sevilla boomed
when Spain did. The explorers Amerigo Vespucci and Ferdinand
Magellan sailed from its great river harbor, discovering new trade
routes and abundant sources of gold, silver, cocoa, and tobacco. For
more than a century, it all flowed in through the port of Sevilla,
bringing the city into a Golden Age. By the 1600s, Sevilla had
become Spain’s largest and wealthiest city, home to artists like Diego
Velázquez and Bartolomé Murillo, who made it a cultural center. But
by the 1700s, Sevilla’s Golden Age was ending, as trade routes
shifted, the harbor silted up, and the Spanish empire crumbled.
Nevertheless, Sevilla remained a major stop on the Grand Tour of
Europe. European nobles flocked here in the 19th century, wanting
to see for themselves the legendary city from story and song: the
daring of Don Giovanni (Don Juan), the romance of Carmen, the
spine-tingling cruelty of the Spanish Inquisition, and the comic
gaiety of The Barber of Seville. To build on this early tourism, Sevilla
planned a grand world’s fair in 1929. Bad year. But despite the
worldwide depression brought on by the US stock market crash, two
million visitors flocked to see Sevilla’s new parks and new
neighborhoods, which are still beautiful parts of the city. In 1992,
Sevilla got a second chance, and this world’s fair was an even bigger
success, leaving the city with impressive infrastructure: a new
airport, six sleek bridges, a modern train station, and the super AVE
bullet train (making Sevilla a 2.5-hour side-trip from Madrid). In
2007, the main boulevards—once thundering with noisy traffic and
mercilessly cutting the city in two—were pedestrianized, enhancing
Sevilla’s already substantial charm.
 Today, Spain’s fourth-largest city (pop. 700,000) is Andalucía’s
leading destination, buzzing with festivals, color, guitars, castanets,
and street life, and enveloped in the fragrances of orange trees and
myrtle. Sevilla also has its share of impressive sights. It’s home to
the world’s largest Gothic cathedral. The Alcázar is a fantastic royal
palace and garden ornamented with Islamic flair. But the real magic
is the city itself, with its tangled former Jewish Quarter, riveting
flamenco shows, thriving bars, and teeming evening paseo. As
James Michener wrote, “Sevilla doesn’t have ambience, it is
ambience.”

PLANNING YOUR TIME

On a three-week trip, spend three nights and two days here. On
even the shortest Spanish trip, I’d zip here on the slick AVE train for
a day trip from Madrid. With more time, if ever there was a Spanish
city to linger in, it’s Sevilla.
The major sights are few and simple for a city of this size. The
cathedral and the Alcázar can be seen in about three hours—but
only if you buy tickets in advance. A wander through the Barrio
Santa Cruz district takes about an hour.

You could spend a second day touring Sevilla’s other sights. Stroll
along the bank of the Guadalquivir River and cross Isabel II Bridge
to explore the Triana neighborhood and to savor views of the
cathedral and Torre del Oro. An evening in Sevilla is essential for the
paseo and a flamenco show. Stay out late to appreciate Sevilla on a
warm night—one of its major charms.
Córdoba (see later chapter) is the most convenient and
worthwhile side-trip from Sevilla, or a handy stopover if you’re taking
the AVE to or from Madrid or Granada. Other side-trip possibilities
include Arcos or Jerez.

Orientation to Sevilla
For the tourist, this big city is small. The bull’s-eye on your map
should be the cathedral and its Giralda bell tower, which can be seen
from all over town. Nearby are Sevilla’s other major sights, the
Alcázar (palace and gardens) and the lively Barrio Santa Cruz
district. The central north-south pedestrian boulevard, Avenida de la
Constitución, stretches north a few blocks to Plaza Nueva, gateway
to the shopping district. A few blocks west of the cathedral are the
bullring and the Guadalquivir River, while Plaza de España is a few
blocks south. The colorful Triana neighborhood, on the west bank of
the Guadalquivir River, has a thriving market and plenty of tapas
bars, but no major tourist sights. While most sights are within
walking distance, don’t hesitate to hop in a taxi to avoid a long, hot
walk (they are plentiful and cheap).
TOURIST INFORMATION
Sevilla has tourist offices at the airport (Mon-Fri 9:00-19:30, Sat-
Sun 9:30-15:00, +34 954 782 035), at Santa Justa train station
(just inside the main entrance, same hours as airport TI, +34 954
782 002), and near the cathedral on Plaza del Triunfo (Mon-Fri
9:00-19:30, Sat-Sun from 9:30, +34 954 210 005).
At any TI, ask for the English-language magazine The Tourist
(also available at www.thetouristsevilla.com) and a current listing of
sights with opening times. The free monthly events guide—El
Giraldillo, written in Spanish basic enough to be understood by
travelers—covers cultural events throughout Andalucía, with a focus
on Sevilla. You can also ask for information you might need for
elsewhere in the region (for example, if heading south, pick up the
free Route of the White Towns brochure and a Jerez map). Helpful
websites are www.turismosevilla.org and www.andalucia.org.
Steer clear of the “visitors centers” on Avenida de la Constitución
(near the Archivo General de Indias) and at Santa Justa train station
(overlooking tracks 6-7), which are private enterprises.

ARRIVAL IN SEVILLA
By Train: All long-distance trains arrive at modern Santa Justa
station, with banks, ATMs, and a TI. Baggage storage is below track
1 (follow signs to consigna, security checkpoint open 6:00-24:00).
The easy-to-miss TI sits by the sliding doors at the main entrance, to
the left before you exit. The plush little AVE Sala Club, designed for
business travelers, welcomes those with a first-class AVE ticket and
reservation (across the main hall from track 1). The town center is
marked by the ornate Giralda bell tower, peeking above the
apartment flats (visible from the front of the station—with your back
to the tracks, it’s at 1 o’clock). To get into the center, it’s a flat and
boring 25-minute walk or about an €8 taxi ride. By city bus, it’s a
short ride on #C1 or #21 to the El Prado de San Sebastián bus
station (find bus stop 100 yards in front of the train station, €1.40,
pay driver), then a 10-minute walk or short tram ride (see “Getting
Around Sevilla,” later).
Regional trains use San Bernardo station, linked to the center
by a tram (see “Getting Around Sevilla,” later).
By Bus: Sevilla’s two major bus stations—El Prado de San
Sebastián and Plaza de Armas—both have information offices, basic
eateries, and baggage storage.
The El Prado de San Sebastián bus station, or simply “El
Prado,” covers most of Andalucía (information desk, daily 8:00-
20:00, +34 955 479 290, generally no English spoken; baggage
lockers/consigna at the far end of station, same hours). From the
bus station to downtown (and Barrio Santa Cruz hotels), it’s about a
15-minute walk: Exit the station straight ahead. When you reach the
busy avenue (Menéndez Pelayo) turn right to find a crosswalk and
cross the avenue. Enter the Murillo Gardens through the iron gate,
emerging on the other side in the heart of Barrio Santa Cruz.
Sevilla’s tram connects the El Prado station with the city center (and
many of my recommended hotels): Turn left as you exit the bus
station and walk to Avenida de Carlos V (€1.40, buy ticket at
machine before boarding; ride it two stops to Archivo General de
Indias to reach the cathedral area, or three stops to Plaza Nueva).
 The Plaza de Armas bus station (near the river, opposite the
Expo ’92 site) serves long-distance destinations such as Madrid,
Barcelona, Lagos, and Lisbon. Ticket counters line one wall, an
information kiosk is in the center, and at the end of the hall are pay
luggage lockers (buy tokens at info kiosk). Taxis to downtown cost
around €7. Or, to take the bus, exit onto the main road (Calle
Arjona) to find bus #C4 into the center (stop is to the left, in front of
the taxi stand; €1.40, pay driver, get off at Puerta de Jerez).
By Car: To drive into Sevilla, follow Centro Ciudad (city center)
signs. The city is no fun to drive in and parking can be frustrating. If
your hotel lacks parking or a recommended plan, I’d pay for a
garage (€24/day) and grab a taxi to your hotel from there. For
hotels in the Barrio Santa Cruz area, the handiest parking is the
Cano y Cueto garage near the corner of Calle Santa María la Blanca
and Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo (open daily 24 hours, at edge of
big park, underground).
By Plane: Sevilla’s San Pablo Airport sits about six miles east of
downtown and has several car rental agencies in the arrivals hall
(airport code: SVQ, +34 954 449 000, www.aena.es). The Especial
Aeropuerto (EA) bus connects the airport with Santa Justa and San
Bernardo train stations, both bus stations, and several stops in the
town center (4/hour, less in off-peak hours, runs 4:30-24:00, 40
minutes, €4, pay driver). The two most convenient stops downtown
are south of the Murillo gardens on Avenida de Carlos V, near El
Prado de San Sebastián bus station (close to my recommended
Barrio Santa Cruz hotels); and on the Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, near
the Torre del Oro. Look for the small EA sign at bus stops. If you’re
going from downtown Sevilla to the airport, the bus stop is on the
side of the street closest to Plaza de España. To taxi into town, go to
an airport taxi stands to ensure a fixed rate (€23 by day, €27 at
night and on weekends, luggage extra, confirm price with driver
before your journey).

HELPFUL HINTS
Festivals: Sevilla’s peak season is April and May, and it has two
one-week spring festival periods when the city is packed: Holy
Week and April Fair.
While Holy Week (Semana Santa) is big all over Spain, it’s
biggest in Sevilla. Held the week between Palm Sunday and
Easter Sunday, locals prepare for the big event starting up to a
year in advance. What would normally be a five-minute walk can
take an hour if a religious procession crosses your path, and
many restaurants stop serving meat during this time. But any
hassles become totally worthwhile as you listen to the saetas
(spontaneous devotional songs) and give in to the spirit of the
festival.
Then, after taking two weeks off to catch its communal breath,
Sevilla holds its April Fair (April 18-24 in 2021). This is a
celebration of all things Andalusian, with plenty of eating,
drinking, singing, and merrymaking (though most of the revelry
takes place in private parties at a large fairground).
Book rooms well in advance for these festival times. Prices can
be sky-high and many hotels have four-night minimums.
Rosemary Scam: In the city center, and especially near the
cathedral, you may encounter women thrusting sprigs of
rosemary into the hands of passersby, grunting, “Toma! Es un
regalo!” (“Take it! It’s a gift!”). The twig is free...but then they
grab your hand and read your fortune for a tip. Coins are “bad
luck,” so the minimum payment they’ll accept is €5. They can be
very aggressive, but you don’t need to take their demands
seriously—don’t make eye contact, don’t accept a sprig, and say
firmly but politely, “No, gracias.”
Laundry: Lavandería Tintorería Roma offers quick and
economical drop-off service (Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00 & 17:30-20:30,
Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun, a few blocks west of the cathedral
at Calle Arfe 22, +34 954 210 535). Near the recommended
Barrio Santa Cruz hotels, La Segunda Vera Tintorería has two
self-service machines (Mon-Fri 9:30-14:00 & 17:30-20:30, Sat
10:00-13:30, closed Sun, about a block from the eastern edge of
 Barrio Santa Cruz at Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo 11, +34 954
536 376). For locations, see the “Sevilla Hotels” map, later.
Bike Rental: This biker-friendly city has designated bike lanes and
a public bike-sharing program (€14 one-week subscription, first
30 minutes of each ride free, €2 for each subsequent hour,
www.sevici.es). Ask the TI about this and other bicycle-rental
options.

GETTING AROUND SEVILLA

Most visitors have a full and fun experience in Sevilla without ever
riding public transportation. The city center is compact, and most of
the major sights are within easy walking distance.
By Taxi: Sevilla is a great taxi town; they’re plentiful and cheap.
Two or more people should go by taxi rather than public transit. You
can hail one showing a green light anywhere, or find a cluster of
them parked by major intersections and sights (€1.35 drop rate,
€1/kilometer, €3.60 minimum; about 20 percent more on evenings
and weekends; calling for a cab adds about €3). A quick daytime
ride in town will generally fall within the €3.60 minimum. Although
I’m quick to take advantage of taxis, note that because of one-way
streets and traffic congestion it’s often just as fast to hoof it between
central points.

Sevilla at a Glance
▲▲▲Flamenco Flamboyant, riveting music-and-dance
performances, offered at clubs throughout town.

▲▲Sevilla Cathedral The world’s largest Gothic church, with

Columbus’ tomb and climbable bell tower. Hours: Tue-Sat
11:00-17:00 (July-Aug until 18:00), Sun 14:30-18:00 (July-Aug
14:00-19:00), Mon 11:00-15:30.
▲▲Royal Alcázar Palace built by the Moors in the 10th
century, revamped in the 14th century, and still serving as royal
digs. Hours: Daily 9:30-19:00, Oct-March until 17:00.

▲▲Hospital de la Caridad Former charity hospital (funded by

likely inspiration for Don Juan) with gorgeously decorated
chapel. Hours: Daily 10:30-19:30.

▲▲Church of the Savior Sevilla’s second-biggest church and

home to some of its most beloved statues used for religious
festivals. Hours: Mon-Sat 11:00-18:00 (July-Aug from 10:00),
Sun 15:00-19:30.

▲▲Basílica de la Macarena Church and museum with much-

venerated Weeping Virgin statue and Holy Week floats. Hours:
Daily 9:00-14:00 & 18:00-21:30, mid-Sept-May daily 9:00-14:00
& 17:00-21:00 except Sun from 9:30.

▲▲Triana Energetic, colorful neighborhood on the west bank

of the river.

▲▲Bullfight Museum Guided tour of the bullring and its

museum. Hours: Daily 9:30-21:00, Nov-March until 19:00, until
15:00 on fight days.

▲▲Evening Paseo Locals strolling around the city. Hours:

Best paseo scene 19:00-21:00, until very late in summer.

▲Museo Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija 18th-century

aristocratic mansion. Hours: Daily 10:30-19:30.

▲Flamenco Dance Museum High-tech museum on the

history and art of flamenco. Hours: Daily 10:00-19:00.
 ▲Museo de Bellas Artes Andalucía’s top paintings, including
works by Murillo and Zurbarán. Hours: Tue-Sat 9:00-21:00,
until 15:00 on Sun and in summer, closed Mon year-round.

By Bus, Tram, and Metro: A single trip on any form of city

transit costs €1.40. Skip the various transit cards—they are a hassle
to get and not a good value for most tourists. Various #C buses,
which are handiest for tourists, make circular routes through town
(note that all of them except the #C6 eventually wind up at Basílica
de La Macarena). For all buses, buy your ticket from the driver or
from machines at bus stops. The #C3 stops at Murillo Gardens,
Triana, then La Macarena. The #C4 goes the opposite direction, but
without entering Triana. And the spunky #C5 minibus winds through
the old center of town, including Plaza del Salvador, Plaza de San
Francisco, the bullring, Plaza Nueva, the Museo de Bellas Artes, La
Campana, and La Macarena, providing a relaxing joyride that also
connects some farther-flung sights (see route on “Sevilla” map).
A tram (tranvía) makes just a few stops in the heart of the city
but can save you a bit of walking. Buy your ticket at the machine on
the platform before you board (runs about every 7 minutes Sun-Thu
until 23:00, Fri-Sat until 1:45 in the morning). It makes five city-
center stops (from south to north): San Bernardo (at the San
Bernardo train station), Prado San Sebastián (next to El Prado de
San Sebastián bus station), Puerta Jerez (south end of Avenida de la
Constitución), Archivo General de Indias (next to the cathedral), and
Plaza Nueva (beginning of shopping streets).
 Sevilla also has a one-line underground Metro, but it’s of little
use to travelers since its primary purpose is to connect the suburbs
with the center. Its downtown stops are at the San Bernardo train
station, El Prado de San Sebastián bus station, and Puerta Jerez.

Tours in Sevilla
To sightsee on your own, download my free Sevilla City Walk
audio tour.
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