3-1

Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
Contents

Section Section
Air conditioning system accumulator - removal Cooling system check .....................................................See Chapter 1
and installation.......................................................................... 15 Cooling system servicing
Air conditioning and heater control assembly - removal (draining, flushing and refilling) ...................................See Chapter 1
and installation.......................................................................... 11 Drivebelt - check, adjustment and replacement ..............See Chapter 1
Air conditioning system compressor - removal Engine cooling fan and fan clutch - check and
and installation ......................................................................... 16 component replacement .......................................................... 4
Air conditioning system condenser - removal Fixed orifice tube - removal and installation.................................. 18
and installation ......................................................................... 17 General information ....................................................................... 1
Air conditioning system evaporator - removal Heater and air-conditioning blower
and installation ......................................................................... 19 motor -circuit check and component replacement.................. 9
Air conditioning system - check and maintenance ........................ 13 Heater core - removal and installation .......................................... 12
Antifreeze/coolant - general information ........................................ 2 Radiator and coolant tank - removal and installation .................... 6
Automatic Temperature Control system - on-board diagnostics .. 14 Thermostat - check and replacement............................................ 3
Blower motor- removal and installation......................................... 10 Underhood hose check and replacement ....................... See Chapter 1
Check Engine light .......................................................... See Chapter 6 Water pump - check ..................................................................... 7
Coolant level check ........................................................ See Chapter 1 Water pump - removal and installation.......................................... 8
Coolant temperature sending unit - check and replacement ......... 5

Specifications

General
Coolant capacity................................................... See Chapter 1
Drivebelt tension.................................................. See Chapter 1
Radiator cap pressure rating............................... 14to18psi
Thermostat opening temperature......................... 195°F

Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Fan assembly-to-hub bolts (six-cylinder engine). 20
Fan blade-to-fan clutch bolts.............................. 18
Thermostat housing bolts.................................... 16
Water pump attaching bolts
Six-cylinder engine ......................................... 22
V8 engine....................................................... 30
Water pump pulley-to-hub bolts (V8 engine)........ 20
3-2 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

1.1 a Typical V8 cooling system layout

1 General information

Engine cooling system

Refer to illustrations 1.1a and 1.1b
All vehicles covered by this manual employ a pressurized engine-
cooling system with thermostatically-controlled coolant circulation
(see illustrations). An impeller-type water pump mounted on the front
of the block pumps coolant through the engine. The coolant flows
around each cylinder and toward the rear of the engine. Cast-in
coolant passages direct coolant around the intake and exhaust ports,
near the spark plug areas and in close proximity to the exhaust valve
guides. The six-cylinder cooling system uses a "reverse-rotation"
design water pump.
A wax-pellet type thermostat is located in a housing near the front
of the engine. During warm up, the closed thermostat prevents coolant
from circulating through the radiator. As the engine nears normal
operating temperature, the thermostat opens and allows hot coolant to
travel through the radiator, where it's cooled before returning to the
engine.
The cooling system is sealed by a pressure-type cap on the
radiator or coolant reservoir, which raises the boiling point of the
coolant and increases the cooling efficiency of the radiator. If the
system pressure exceeds the cap pressure-relief value, the excess
pressure in the system forces the spring-loaded valve inside the cap
off its seat. This allows either excess pressure to escape to the
atmosphere (reservoir-mounted caps on 4.0L six-cylinder vehicles) or
coolant to escape through an overflow tube into a coolant recovery
reservoir.
The coolant reservoir does double duty as both the point at which
fresh coolant is added to the cooling system to maintain the proper
fluid level and as a holding tank for overheated coolant. On 4.0L six-
cylinder vehicles, the coolant reservoir is a pressurized part of the
cooling system through which coolant flows in normal operation.
1.1b Typical six-cylinder cooling system layout
 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-3

2.6 An inexpensive hydrometer can be used to test the condition 3.8 The hose to the thermostat housing on V8 engines is in a tight
of your coolant spot - use pliers from above to squeeze the hose clamp

Heating system rust and scale in the system. Use distilled water with the antifreeze.
Before adding antifreeze, check all hose connections, because
The heating system consists of a blower fan and heater core
antifreeze tends to search out and leak through very minute openings.
located in the heater box, the hoses connecting the heater core to the
Engines don't normally consume coolant, so if the level goes down,
engine cooling system and the heater/air conditioning control head on
find the cause and correct it.
the instrument panel. Hot engine coolant is circulated through the
The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water which you should use
heater core. When the heater mode is activated, a flap door opens to
depends on the relative weather conditions. The mixture should
expose the heater box to the passenger compartment. A fan switch on
contain at least 50 percent antifreeze, but should never contain more
the control head activates the blower motor, which forces air through
than 70 percent antifreeze. Consult the mixture ratio chart on the
the core, heating the air.
antifreeze container before adding coolant. Hydrometers are available
at most auto parts stores to test the coolant (see illustration). Use
Air conditioning system antifreeze which meets the vehicle manufacturer's specifications.
The air conditioning system consists of a condenser mounted in
front of the radiator, an evaporator mounted adjacent to the heater
core, a compressor mounted on the engine, an accumulator which
3 Thermostat - check and replacement
stores liquid refrigerant and removes excess moisture, and the
plumbing connecting all of the above components.
A blower fan forces the warmer air of the passenger compartment Warning: Do not remove the radiator cap, drain the coolant or replace
through the evaporator core (sort of a radiator-in-reverse), transferring the thermostat until the engine has cooled completely.
the heat from the air to the refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant boils off
into low pressure vapor, taking the heat with it when it leaves the Check
evaporator. 1 Before assuming the thermostat is to blame for a cooling system
problem, check the coolant level, drivebelt tension (Chapter 1) and
temperature gauge (or light) operation.
2 Antifreeze/coolant - general information 2 If the engine seems to be taking a long time to warm up (based on
heater output or temperature gauge operation), the thermostat is
probably stuck open. Replace the thermostat with a new one.
Refer to illustration 2.6
3 If the engine runs hot, use your hand to check the temperature of
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or the upper radiator hose. If the hose isn't hot, but the engine is, the
painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty thermostat is probably stuck closed, preventing the coolant inside the
of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze engine from escaping to the radiator. Replace the thermostat.
lying around in an open container or in puddles on the floor; children Caution: Don't drive the vehicle without a thermostat. The computer
and pets are attracted by it's sweet smell and may drink it. Check with may stay in open loop and emissions and fuel economy will suffer.
local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many communities 4 If the upper radiator hose is hot, it means that the coolant is
have collection centers which will see that antifreeze is disposed of flowing and the thermostat is open. Consult the Troubleshooting
safely. Never dump used anti-freeze on the ground or pour it into Section at the front of this manual for cooling system diagnosis.
drains.
Note; Non-toxic antifreeze is now manufactured and available at local Replacement
auto parts stores, but even these types should be disposed of properly.
Keep antifreeze containers covered and repair leaks in your Refer to illustrations 3.8, 3.10a, 3.10b and 3.14
cooling system as soon as they are noticed. 5 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
The cooling system should be filled with a water/ethylene-glycol 6 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If the coolant is
based antifreeze solution, which will prevent freezing down to at least - relatively new or in good condition (see Chapter 1), save it and reuse it.
20°F, or lower if local climate requires it. It also provides protection 7 Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine to locate the
against corrosion and increases the coolant boiling point. thermostat housing.
The cooling system should be drained, flushed and refilled at the 8 Loosen the hose clamp(s), then detach the hose(s) from the
specified intervals (see Chapter 1). Old or contaminated antifreeze fitting(s) (see illustration). If a hose is stuck, grasp it near the end with
solutions are likely to cause damage and encourage the formation of a pair of adjustable pliers and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off. If
a hose is old or deteriorated, cut it off and install a new one.
3-4 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3.10a After the hose(s) are removed, 3.1 Ob Thermostat housing location - six- 3.14 Before installing the gasket, apply a
remove the bolts (arrows) and detach the cylinder engine thin, uniform layer of RTV sealant to both
housing from the engine - V8 thermostat sides of the gasket
housing shown here is behind the
accessory mount

9 If the outer surface of the large fitting that mates with the hose is
deteriorated (corroded, pitted, etc.) it may be damaged further by hose
removal. If it is, the thermostat housing cover will have to be replaced.
10 Remove the bolts and detach the housing cover (see
illustrations). If the cover is stuck, tap it with a soft-face hammer to jar
it loose. Be prepared for some coolant to spill as the gasket seal is
broken.
11 Note how it's installed (which end is facing out), then remove the
thermostat.
12 Stuff a rag into the engine opening, then remove all traces of old
gasket material and sealant from the housing and cover with a gasket
scraper. Remove the rag from the opening and clean the gasket
mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.
13 Install the new thermostat in the housing. Make sure the correct
end faces out - the spring end is normally directed into the engine. 4.5 Remove the fan shroud mounting nuts/bolts
14 Apply a thin, uniform layer of RTV sealant to both sides of the new
gasket (see illustration) and position it on the housing.
15 Install the cover and bolts. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in
this Chapter's Specifications.
16 Reattach the hose(s) to the fitting(s) and tighten the hose clamp(s)
securely.
17 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
18 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating
temperature, then check for leaks and proper thermostat operation (as
described in Steps 2 through 4).

4 Engine cooling fan and fan clutch - check and

component replacement

Warning: To avoid possible injury or damage, DO NOT operate the

engine with a damaged fan. Do not attempt to repair fan blades -
replace a damaged fan with a new one.

Check 4.6 Engine cooling fan assembly details - V8 engine

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable and rock the fan back and Replacement
forth by hand to check for excessive bearing play.
Refer to illustrations 4.5 and 4.6
2 With the engine cold (and not running), turn the fan blades by
hand. The fan should turn freely. 5 Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the fan shroud
3 Visually inspect for substantial fluid leakage from the clutch mounting screws (see illustration), lift the shroud up until it clears the
assembly. If problems are noted, replace the clutch assembly. slots in the bottom bracket of the radiator, then push the shroud over
4 With the engine completely warmed up, turn off the ignition the fan.
switch and disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 6 A special tool, obtainable at most auto parts stores, is required to
Turn the fan by hand. Some drag should be evident. If the fan turns remove the fan on V8 models. The fan attaches to the water pump with
easily, replace the fan clutch. a large central nut that is part of the fan drive (see illustration). The
 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-5

4.7 Lift the fan assembly and fan shroud out together 4.9 Remove the four bolts retaining the fan to the fan clutch -
when the fan clutch is stored off the engine, place it with the
radiator side DOWN

5.1 a Coolant temperature sender location (arrow) 5.1 b Coolant temperature sender location (arrow) - V8 engine (the
- six-cylinder engine other temperature sensor at right is for the computer)

tool holds the four bolts of the water-pump pulley while a large wrench is or temperature gauge mounted in the instrument panel and a coolant
used to loosen the large drive nut. Sometimes it is possible to hold the temperature sending unit mounted on the engine (see illustrations).
water pump pulley by applying considerable hand pressure to the Some vehicles have more than one sensor unit, but only one is used
serpentine belt while the large nut is turned counterclockwise (right-hand for the indicator system, and it is usually a single-wire connector.
threads), but it may require the tool if the fan has been installed for years. Coolant temperature sensors for the computer usually have two wires.
Six-cylinder fans attach to the water pump with four studs/nuts; remove 2 If an overheating indication occurs, check the coolant level in the
the nuts and pull the fan/clutch assembly off the studs. system and then make sure the wiring between the light or gauge and
7 Lift the fan/clutch assembly and shroud out of the engine the sending unit is secure and all fuses are intact.
compartment together (see illustration). 3 With the ignition switch On and the starter motor cranking, the
8 Carefully inspect the fan blades for damage and defects. Replace indicator light should glow (bulb check).
it if necessary. 4 If the light does not glow, the bulb may be burned out, the ignition
9 At this point, the fan may be unbolted from the clutch, if switch may be faulty or the circuit may be open. Test the circuit by
necessary (see illustration). If the fan clutch is stored, position it with grounding the wire to the sending unit with the ignition On (engine not
the radiator side facing down. running for safety). If the gauge deflects full scale or the light glows,
12 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the fan replace the sending unit.
and clutch mounting nuts evenly and securely. 5 As soon as the engine starts, the light should go out and remain
out unless the engine overheats. Failure of the light to go out may be
due to a grounded wire between the light and the sending unit, a
5 Coolant temperature sending unit - check and defective sending unit or a faulty ignition switch. Check the coolant to
replacement make sure it's the proper type. Plain water may have too low a boiling
point to activate the sending unit.
6 If the sending unit must be replaced, simply unscrew it from the
Refer to illustrations 5.1a and 5.1b
engine and install the replacement. Use sealant on the threads. Make
Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this sure the engine is cool before removing the defective sending unit.
procedure. There will be some coolant loss as the unit is removed, so be prepared
1 The coolant temperature indicator system is composed of a light to catch it. Check the level after the replacement has been installed.
3-6 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

6.5 Remove the screw, nuts and hose (arrows) from the coolant 6.10 Remove the radiator support with the hood latch attached
reservoir and remove the reservoir from the engine compartment and lay it aside

6 Radiator and coolant tank - removal and installation

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this
procedure,
1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If the coolant is
relatively new or in good condition, save it and reuse it.

Coolant reservoir - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 6.5
Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this
procedure.
3 Remove the reservoir filler cap and drain the cooling system (see
Chapter 1) until the coolant level is below the bottom of the reservoir.
4 Loosen the hose clamps and detach the hose from the reservoir.
5 Remove the screws/nuts and lift the reservoir from the vehicle
(see illustration).
6 Installation is the reverse of removal. 6.14 When lifting the radiator out, be careful not to damage the
cooling fins with the fan and fan shroud (arrows)

Radiator removal
Refer to illustrations 6.10, 6.14 and 6.16 Radiator installation
7 Loosen the hose clamps, then detach the radiator hoses from the 15 With the radiator removed, it can be inspected for leaks and
fittings on the radiator. If they're stuck, grasp each hose near the end damage. If it needs repair, have a radiator shop or dealer service
with a pair of adjustable pliers and twist it to break the seal, then pull it department perform the work as special techniques are required.
off - be careful not to distort the radiator fittings! If the hoses are old or 16 Whenever the radiator is removed from the vehicle, make note of
deteriorated, cut them off and install new ones. the location of the various rubber seals (top, bottom and sides) and
8 Disconnect the reservoir hose from the radiator filler neck. their location. They should be put back exactly as originally installed to
9 Pry up the two end clips holding the rubber front hood seal, ensure proper cooling (see illustration).
allowing access to two of the bolts holding the upper radiator support 17 Bugs and dirt can be removed from the front of the radiator with a
(panel with the information decals) in place. Remove those bolts. garden hose, followed by compressed air and a soft brush. Don't bend
10 Remove the other bolts and nuts retaining the radiator support the cooling fins as this is done. When blowing out the core, direct the
and remove it with the hood latch and cable still attached (see hose or air line only from the engine side out.
illustration). Lay the support aside. 18 Check the radiator mounts for deterioration and make sure
11 Remove the screws that attach the radiator fan shroud to the there's nothing in them when the radiator is installed.
radiator and slide the shroud toward the engine. 19 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
12 If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, 20 After installation, fill the cooling system with the proper mixture of
disconnect the cooler lines from the rear of the radiator (see Chap- antifreeze and water. Refer to Chapter 1 if necessary.
ter 7B). Use a drip pan to catch spilled fluid. 21 Start the engine and check for leaks. Allow the engine to reach
13 Plug the lines and fittings. normal operating temperature, indicated by the upper radiator hose
14 Remove the radiator mounting bolts and carefully lift out the becoming hot. Recheck the coolant level and add more if required.
radiator (see illustration). Don't spill coolant on the vehicle or scratch 22 If you're working on an automatic transmission-equipped vehicle,
the paint. check and add fluid as needed.
 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-7

6.16 The rubber seals around the radiator and between the radiator and condenser must be installed in their original locations to retain
proper cooling

7.3 The water pump weep hole (arrow) will drip coolant when the 7.4 Grasp the water pump flange and try to rock the shaft back
seal on the pump shaft fails and forth to check for play

you'll need a flashlight to find the hole on the water pump from
7 Water pump - check underneath to check for leaks (see illustration).
4 If the water pump shaft bearings fail there may be a howling
Refer to illustrations 7.3 and 7.4 sound at the front of the engine while it's running. Shaft wear can be
1 A failure in the water pump can cause serious engine damage due felt if the water pump pulley is rocked up and down (see illustration).
to overheating. Don't mistake drivebelt slippage, which causes a squealing sound, for
2 There are several ways to check the operation of the water pump water pump bearing failure.
while it's installed on the engine. If the pump is defective, it should be 5 It is possible for a water pump to be bad, even if it doesn't howl or
replaced with a new or rebuilt unit. leak water. Sometimes the fins on the back of the impeller can corrode
3 Water pumps are equipped with weep or vent holes. If a failure away until the pump is no longer effective. The only way to check for
occurs in the pump seal, coolant will leak from the hole. In most cases this is to remove the pump for examination.
3-8 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

8.6 On 4.0L six-cylinder engines, the power steering pump and

bracket can be removed as a unit - the bracket is over
the water pump

8.7a Water pump assembly details - six-cylinder engine

(note the locations of the long and short fasteners and
transfer the heater hose fitting to the new pump)

8.7b Water pump bolt locations - V8 engine

8 Water pump - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 8.6, 8.7a, 8.7b and 8.7c

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this
procedure.

Removal
1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If the coolant is 8.7c Reach behind the water pump with pliers to detach the
relatively new or in good condition, save it and reuse it. bypass hose - V8 engine
3 Remove the cooling fan and shroud (see Section 4).
4 R e m o ve t h e d r i v e b e l t s ( s e e C h a p t e r 1 ) a n d t h e wa t e r p u m p
pulley. V8 models, reach above the water pump with pliers to release the hose
5 Loosen the clamps and detach the hoses from the water pump. If clamp on the bypass hose (see illustration)
they're stuck, grasp each hose near the end with a pair of adjustable
pliers and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off. If the hoses are Installation
deteriorated, cut them off and install new ones. 8 Clean the bolt threads and the threaded holes in the engine to
6 On six-cylinder models, remove the idler pulley and the power remove corrosion and sealant.
steering pump (see illustration), don't disconnect the hoses and keep 9 Compare the new pump to the old one to make sure they're
it upright to avoid spilling fluid. identical. On six-cylinder models, remove the heater hose fitting from
7 Remove the bolts and detach the water pump from the engine. the old pump and transfer it to the new pump, using sealant on the
Note the locations of the various lengths and different types of bolts as threads. If the old pump is being reused, check the impeller blades on
they're removed to ensure correct installation (see illustrations). On the backside for corrosion. If any fins are missing or badly corroded,
 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-9

8.13 When replacing the water pump, make sure the various-
length bolts are in the correct locations

8.9 Six-cylinder replacement water pumps must be of reverse-

rotation design - look for the R stamped on the impeller

replace the pump with a new one. Caution: Water pumps on 1993 to
1995 4.0L six-cylinder engines are of "reverse-rotation" design. They
are marked on the impeller with an "R" (see illustration) If you install a
replacement pump, be sure it is marked this way, or overheating will
result.
10 Remove all traces of old gasket material from the engine with a
gasket scraper.
11 Clean the engine and new water pump mating surfaces with
lacquer thinner or acetone.
12 Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the engine side of the new
gasket.
13 Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to the gasket mating surface of
the new pump, then carefully mate the gasket and the pump. Slip a
couple of bolts through the pump mounting holes to hold the gasket in 9.4 Disconnect the electrical connector to the blower motor and
place (see illustration/ attach a voltmeter to the harness side of the connector
14 Carefully attach the pump and gasket to the engine and thread
the bolts into the holes finger tight.
15 Install the remaining bolts (if they also hold an accessory bracket
in place, be sure to reposition the bracket at this time). Tighten them to
the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications in 1/4-turn
increments.
16 Reinstall all parts removed for access to the pump. Make sure the
serpentine drivebelt is installed as originally routed (see Chapter 1) or
overheating could result.
17 Refill the cooling system and check the drivebelt tension (see
Chapter 1). Run the engine and check for leaks.

9 Heater and air conditioning blower motor -circuit

check and component replacement

Circuit check 9.6 Supply a ground connection and fused battery voltage
Refer to illustrations 9.4 and 9.6 directly to the blower side of the connector to see if the
1 Check the fuse and all connections in the circuit for looseness blower operates
and corrosion. Make sure the battery is fully charged.
2 With the transmission in Park, the parking brake securely applied, will also vary as the switch is moved to the different positions. Slower
turn the ignition switch to the On position (engine not running). speeds will deliver less voltage to the blower, and the HIGH position
3 The blower motor is located under the glove compartment area of will bypass the resistor to supply a full 12 volts.
the dash, near the firewall. Bend back the clip on one of the blower- 6 If there is voltage, but the blower motor does not operate,
motor mounting screws and release the wiring harness, pulling it down connect a jumper wire between the motor ground terminal and a good
for easier disconnection of the connector. chassis ground. Connect a fused jumper wire between the battery
4 Connect a voltmeter to the blower motor connector (see positive terminal and the positive terminal on the motor side of the
illustration). connector (see illustration/ If the motor now works, remove the
5 Move the blower switch through each of its positions and note the jumper wire, and if the motor stops working when the ground wire is
voltage readings. Changes in voltage indicates that the motor speeds removed, check for bad ground and re-test. If the motor still doesn't
work, the blower motor is probably faulty.
3-10 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

9.8 Remove the two screws and remove the blower motor
resistor (arrow) from the case

BLOWER MOTOR
RESISTOR
9.7 Blower motor resistor location

10.3 The blower motor is mounted under the instrument panel,

near the glove box - disconnect the electrical connector, then
remove the three blower motor mounting screws (arrows)

11 If there's no voltage to the resistor, remove the heater control

panel (see Section 11) and, with the ignition ON, check for voltage at
9.9 Check for voltage in the harness to the resistor, at each the connector for the blower motor switch.
blower switch speed 12 If there's no voltage, check the wiring between the fuse panel and
the switch for an open or a short.
Blower motor resistor assembly 13 If there's voltage, connect one end of a jumper wire to the
Refer to illustrations 9.7, 9,8 and 9.9 terminal of the switch connector with voltage. Connect the other end of
7 The blower resistor assembly is located on the heater case (see the jumper to each of the terminals that supply voltage to the resistor
illustration/ There are several resistance elements mounted on the block. If the motor now operates normally, replace the switch.
resistor board to provide four blower speeds.
8 Remove the blower resistor from its mounting location and
visually check for damage (see illustration/ Check the resistor block 10 Blower motor - removal and installation
for continuity between all terminals. If the thermal limiter circuit has
been opened as a result of excessive heat, it should be replaced only Refer to illustrations 10.3 and 10.4
with the identical replacement part. Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is
9 With a voltmeter, check the circuit from the blower switch to the armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
resistor by checking for voltage at the resistor end of the harness. prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the
Check each wire at each speed (see illustration/ negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components.
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before
Blower motor operates at only one speed beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully
10 If there's no voltage at the motor, remove the resistor block discharge). For more information see Chapter 12.
connector and check it for voltage. If there's voltage at any of the 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
connector terminals, check the resistor block for continuity and the 2 Disconnect the blower motor connector (see Section 9).
wiring between the resistor block and the motor for an open or short. 3 Remove the blower motor mounting screws and remove the
 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-11

10.4 If the motor is being replaced, detach the fan clip, remove 11.2 Remove the ashtray and six screws to detach the center
the fan and install it on the shaft of the new motor dash bezel

11.3 Remove the screws retaining the air conditioning and 11.4a Pull the air conditioning and heater control panel out and
heater control panel disconnect the vacuum and electrical connectors

motor (see illustration).

4 Detach the fan retainer clip from the motor shaft (see illustration).
5 Slip the fan off the old motor shaft, mount it on the new motor and
install the retainer clip.
6 Place the blower motor in position, making sure the seal is in
place and install the mounting screws.
7 Reconnect the electrical connector and battery cable. Test the
motor operation.

11 Air conditioning and heater control assembly -

removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 11.2, 11.3, 11.4a and 11.4b

Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the 11.4b Air conditioning and heater control assembly
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components. connector details
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before a) Temperature control b) Blower speed switch
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully connection
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12. connection
1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2 Remove the six screws and detach the center dash bezel (see
illustration,). Note: Remove the ashtray for access to the two lower 4 Pull the air conditioning and heater control panel forward and
screws. disconnect the electrical connectors and vacuum plug (see
3 Remove the four mounting screws from the air conditioning and illustrations).
heater control panel (see illustration). 5 To install the control, reverse the removal procedure.
3-12 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

11.7 Use a hand-held vacuum pump to test the one-way check

valve (arrow) in the vacuum line to the control panel

11.10 Apply 8 inches of vacuum to each of the seven ports in the

vacuum harness connector

9 Reconnect the check valve in the vacuum line in the proper

direction and plug the hose back onto the intake manifold.
10 With the control panel pulled out and the vacuum harness discon-
nected (see illustration 11.4a) apply 8 inches of vacuum in turn to
each of the 7 ports on the connector (see illustration).
11 If any of the circuits don't hold vacuum, follow the lines to their
destination (see illustration) to isolate the source of the leak and
repair it.

12 Heater core - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 12.7, 12.10, 12.13 and 12.15

Warning 1: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components.
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before
beginning work (the, system has a back-up capacitor that must fully.
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12.
Warning 2: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not
loosen any hose fittings of remove any components until after the system
has been discharged. Airconditioning refrigerant should be properly
discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/recycling unit at a dealer service
department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. Always wear eye
protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.

Removal
1 Note: Heater core removal on the Grand Cherokee is a difficult
task for the home mechanic. It can be done with slow, careful attention
11.11 Vacuum circuit details to detail, but many fasteners and wiring connectors are difficult to get
at behind the instrument panel. The entire instrument panel must be
removed to allow the heater/air-conditioning unit to be removed from
Control panel vacuum tests the car.
Refer to illustrations 11.7, 11.10 and 11.11 2 On air-conditioned models, have the system discharged (see
6 Vacuum is supplied to the climate control system by a line Warning above).
attached to the intake manifold. A check valve is used in this line. 3 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
1 With the engine OFF, pull the check valve (noting its direction) off 4 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1) and disconnect the
the vacuum line from the intake manifold and apply 8 inches of vacuum heater hoses at the heater core inlet and outlet.
with a hand-held pump on the engine side of the check valve (see 5 Remove the console, lower the steering column and remove the
illustration). Vacuum should flow through. instrument panel assembly (see Chapter 11).
8 With vacuum applied to the control panel side of the valve, 6 Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector (see
vacuum should hold. If not, replace the check valve. Section 10).
 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-13

12.7 A spring-lock coupling tool like this is used to spread the 12.10 Remove the housing attaching nuts from the engine side of
garter-spring to allow disconnection of the air conditioning lines the firewall

12.13 Disconnect the rear floor heat ducting

7 On air-conditioned models, disconnect the air conditioning lines

from the evaporator at the firewall. Special clamps are required to
disconnect the fittings (see illustration). 12.15 The heater core is removed from the top of the heater/air
8 Remove the coolant overflow tank (see Section 6). conditioning unit
9 Detach the PCM (computer) from the firewall, without discon-
necting the 60-pin connector.
17 Reinstall the remaining components in the reverse order of
10 Pull the PCM away far enough to remove the heater/air
removal. Note: When installing the blower/evaporator housing, avoid
conditioning unit attaching nuts (three behind the computer, one above
pinching any wiring between the housing fresh air inlet and the
the distributor on V8 models) from the studs on the engine
instrument panel on the right side of the housing.
compartment side of the firewall (see illustration).
11 Label and disconnect the electrical connectors from the heater/air 18 Refill the cooling system.
conditioning unit and the blower motor resistor. Disconnect the 19 Have the air conditioning system (if equipped) evacuated,
vacuum hose at the vacuum motor. recharged and leak-tested.
12 Remove the evaporator drain tube. 20 Start the engine and check for proper operation.
12 Remove the defrost duct (above the heater/air conditioning unit).
13 Disconnect the rear floor heat duct (see illustration).
14 Remove the nuts from the studs on the interior side of the firewall 13 Air conditioning and heating system - check and
and pull the heater/air conditioning unit from the vehicle. maintenance
15 Remove the retaining screws (see illustration) and remove the
heater core by pullh ig it straight up out of the housing. Refer to illustration 13.5
1 The following maintenance checks should be performed on a
Installation regular basis to ensure that the air conditioning continues to operate at
16 Position the heater core in the housing and install the screws. peak efficiency:
17 When installing the heater core, cement the seal in place to keep a) Check the compressor drivebelt. If it's worn or deteriorated,
it from moving when the blower assembly is installed. replace it (see Chapter 1).
3-14 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

13.5 The center relay (arrow) in the relay box is the air
conditioning relay 13.12 A basic charging kit for 134a systems is available at most
auto parts stores - it must say 134a (not R-12) and so should the
12-ounce can of refrigerant
b) Check the drivebelt tension and, if necessary, adjust it (see
Chapter 1).
c) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks, bubbles, hard spots
and deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles
and seepage. If there's any evidence of wear, damage or leaks,
replace the hosefs).
d) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves, bugs and other debris. Use
a "fin comb" or compressed air to clean the condenser.
e) Make sure the system has the correct refrigerant charge.
2 It's a good idea to operate the system for about 10 minutes at
least once a month, particularly during the winter. Long-term non-use
can cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of the seals.
3 Leaks in the air conditioning system are best spotted when the
system is brought up to temperature and pressure, by running the
engine with the air conditioning ON for five minutes. Shut the engine
off and inspect the air conditioning hoses and connections. Traces of
oil usually indicate refrigerant leaks.
4 Because of the complexity of the air conditioning system and the
special equipment necessary to service it, in-depth troubleshooting
and repairs are not included in this manual. However, simple checks 13.15 Add refrigerant to the system at the low-pressure port
and component replacement procedures are provided in this Chapter.
5 If the air conditioning system doesn't operate at all, check the
fuse panel and the air conditioning relay, located in the relay box in the beyond the scope of this manual.
engine compartment (see illustration). 11 If the inlet pipe has frost accumulation or feels cooler than the
6 The most common cause of poor cooling is simply a low system accumulator surface, the refrigerant charge is low.
refrigerant charge. If a noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the
following quick check will help you determine if the refrigerant level is Adding refrigerant
low. For more complete information on the air conditioning system, Refer to illustrations 13.12, 13.15 and 13.16
refer to the Haynes Automotive Heating and Air conditioning Manual. 12 Buy an automotive charging kit at an auto parts store. A charging
kit includes a 12-ounce can of refrigerant, a tap valve and a short
Checking the refrigerant charge section of hose that can be attached between the tap valve and the
7 Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature. system low side service valve (see illustration). Because one can of
8 Place the air conditioning temperature selector at the coldest refrigerant may not be sufficient to bring the system charge up to the
setting and put the blower at the highest setting. Open the doors (to proper level, it's a good idea to buy a couple of additional cans. Make
make sure the air conditioning system doesn't cycle off as soon as it sure that one of the cans contains red refrigerant dye. If the system is
cools the passenger compartment). leaking, the red dye will leak out with the refrigerant and help you
9 With the compressor engaged - the clutch will make an audible pinpoint the location of the leak. Warning: Never add more than two
click and the center of the clutch will rotate - feel the evaporator inlet cans of refrigerant to the system.
pipe between the fixed orifice tube and the evaporator with one hand 13 Hook up the charging kit by following the manufacturer's
while placing your other hand on the metal portion of the hose between instructions. Warning: DO NOT hook the charging kit hose to the
the evaporator and the accumulator (see Sections 12 and 18). system high side! The fittings on the charging kit are designed to fit
10 The pipe leading from the fixed orifice to the evaporator should be only on the low side of the system.
cold, and the outlet hose should be slightly colder (3 to 10-degrees F). 14 Back off the valve handle on the charging kit and screw the kit
If the outlet is considerably warmer than the inlet, the system charge is onto the refrigerant can, making sure first that the O-ring or rubber seal
low. The earliest warning that a system is low on refrigerant is the air inside the threaded portion of the kit is in place. Warning: Wear
coming out of the ducts inside the vehicle. If the air isn't as cold as it protective eyewear when dealing with pressurized refrigerant cans.
used to be, the system probably needs a charge. Further inspection or 15 Remove the dust cap from the low-side charging port (just above
testing of the system requires special tools and techniques and is the coolant recovery tank) and attach the quick-connect fitting on the
kit hose (see illustration).
 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-15

13.16 Remove the cycling switch from the accumulator 14.1 The control panel of the АТС system (bottom) compared to
and jump the connectors with a jumper wire to the standard, three-rotary-switch manual control panel (top)
keep the compressor clutch engaged

20 Remove the charging kit from the can and store the kit for future
use with the piercing valve in the UP position, to prevent inadvertently
piercing the can on the next use.

14 Automatic Temperature Control - on-board

diagnostics

Refer to illustrations 14.1 and 14.2

Note: The diagnostic function of the АТС system is lost when the
vehicle's battery is disconnected. If you are going to disconnect the
battery, first check the diagnostic procedures below.
1 Some models of the Grand Cherokee are equipped with an
Automatic Temperature Control system, which includes a digital
display on the dash panel (see illustration). This system incorporates
an on-board diagnostic function capable of troubleshooting input and
output circuits and indicating both current and historical faults.
Historical faults are those circuits which have had a problem in the
past but are currently working. Many historical faults are the result of
14.2 The upper left of the АТС display normally indicates a two- loose wring connectors or connectors that have been disturbed by
digit temperature, but in the diagnostic mode shown here (no other repair work.
arrows showing on the stickman) the codes from 2 The same portion of the display that indicates the temperature
0 to 99 are displayed (see illustration) acts as a test indicator to show fault codes.
3 If there is trouble in the АТС system, an "ER" message will display
16 Warm up the engine and turn on the air conditioner. Keep the on the indicator once during an ignition cycle.
charging kit hose away from the fan and other moving parts. The 4 To access the fault codes, depress the AC and RECIRC buttons
Charging process requires the compressor to be running. If the clutch at the same time and hold them in while you rotate the temperature
cycles off, remove the cycling switch connector from the accumulator knob one click clockwise. The complete display will light up (the
(see illustration) and attach a jumper wire. This will keep the segment test).
compressor engaged. 5 Release the buttons and 00 will show on the display (select test
17 Turn the valve handle on the kit until the stem pierces the can, level).
then back the handle out to release the refrigerant. You should be able 6 Now push either the AC or RECIRC buttons and the "stickman"
to hear the rush of gas. Add refrigerant to the low side of the system figure will appear, indicating the Fault Code mode, fault codes from 1
until both the accumulator surface and the evaporator inlet pipe feel to 64 will appear if there are codes in memory. Record these codes
about the same temperature . Allow stabilization time between each and compare them to the chart to find the areas requiring further
addition. diagnosis. If Fault Code 25 or 29 appears, the АТС control module
18 If you have an accurate thermometer, you can place it in the itself must be replaced before any further testing is done.
center air conditioning duct inside the vehicle and keep track of the 7 Current fault codes are cleared whenever the problem is solved
outlet air temperature. A charged system that is working properly or goes away. To clear historical faults, hold the AC or RECIRC button
should cool to 40-degrees F. If the ambient (outside) air temperature is for 3 seconds. The faults have cleared when two horizontal bars
very high, say 110-degrees F, the duct air temperature may be as high appear in the display.
as 60-degrees F, but generally the air conditioning is 30 to 50-degrees F 8 The АТС diagnostic system is quite complicated and is capable of
cooler than the ambient air. displaying data to check both input and output circuitry. However, if
19 When the can is empty, turn the valve handle to the closed the home mechanic can't find the problem through the basic Fault
position and release the connection from the low-side port. Replace Code information (see diagnostic chart), we suggest that you take the
the dust cap. vehicle to a dealer service department for further testing.
3-16 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Automatic Temperature Control on-board diagnostic chart

Fault Code Description Circuit Description
0 no faults Normal operation
1 circuit open Ambient Temperature Sensor
2 circuit open In-vehicle Temperature Sensor
3 circuit open Solar Sensor Input Circuit
4 circuit open Front Panel Blower/Fan Control Input
5 circuit open Front Panel Mode Control Input
6 circuit open Blend Air Door Feedback Circuit
7 circuit open Mode Door Feedback Circuit
8 feedback too high Blower/Fan Feedback Circuit
9 circuit shorted Ambient Temperature Sensor
10 circuit shorted In-vehicle Temperature Sensor
11 circuit shorted Solar Sensor input Circuit
12 circuit shorted Front Panel Blower/Fan Control Input
13 circuit shorted Front Panel Mode Control Input
14 circuit shorted Blend Air Door Feedback Circuit
15 circuit shorted Mode Door Feedback Circuit
16 feedback too low Blower/Fan Feedback Circuit
17 dimming input error Pulse Width Dimming PWD Input
19 door not responding Mode Door Feedback Circuit
20 door not responding Blend Air Door Actuator Drive Circuit
21 door travel range too small Mode Door Feedback Circuit
22 door travel range too large Mode Door Feedback Circuit
23 door travel range too small Blend Air Door Actuator Drive Circuit
24 door travel range too large Blend Air Door Actuator Drive Circuit
25 calibration data error Calibration and CPU Data
26 coolant temp message missing Collision Detection C2D BUS Inputs
27 vehicle speed message missing Collision Detection C2D BUS Inputs
28 engine RPM message missing Collision Detection C2D BUS Inputs
29 CPU error Calibration and CPU Data
33 circuit was open Ambient Temperature Sensor
34 circuit was open In-vehicle Temperature Sensor
35 circuit was open Solar Sensor Input Circuit
36 circuit was open Front Panel Blower/Fan Control Input
37 circuit was open Front Panel Mode Control Input
38 circuit was open Blend Air Door Feedback Circuit
39 circuit was open Mode Door Feedback Circuit
40 feedback was too high Blower/Fan Feedback Circuit
41 circuit was shorted Ambient Temperature Sensor
42 circuit was shorted In-vehicle Temperature Sensor
43 circuit was shorted Solar Sensor Input Circuit
44 circuit was shorted Front Panel Blower/Fan Control Input
45 circuit was shorted Front Panel Mode Control Input
46 circuit was shorted Blend Air Door Feedback Circuit
47 circuit was shorted Mode Door Feedback Circuit
48 feedback was too low Blower/Fan Feedback Circuit
49 dimming input was in error Pulse Width Dimming PWD Input
51 door was not responding Mode Door Feedback Circuit
52 door was not responding Blend Air Door Actuator Drive Circuit
53 door range travel was too small Mode Door Feedback Circuit
54 door range travel was too large Mode Door Feedback Circuit
55 door range travel was too small Blend Air Door Actuator Drive Circuit
56 door range travel was too large Blend Air Door Actuator Drive Circuit
57 calibration data was in error Calibration and CPU Data
58 coolant temp message was missing Collision Detection C2D BUS Inputs
59 vehicle speed message was missing Collision Detection C2D BUS Inputs
60 engine RPM message was missing Collision Detection C2D BUS Inputs
61 CPU was in error Calibration and CPU Data
 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-17

15.3 Disconnect the clutch-cycling pressure switch from the 16.3 Disconnect the electrical connector (arrow) from the
accumulator compressor - its a single-wire connector

15 Air conditioning accumulator - removal and

installation

Refer to illustration 15.3

Warning : The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not
loosen any hose fittings or remove any components until after the system
has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant should be properly
discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/recycling unit at a dealer service
department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. Always wear eye
protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.
1 Have the air conditioning system discharged (see Warning above).
2 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3 Disconnect the electrical connector from the pressure switch near
the top of the accumulator (see illustration), which is located on the
passenger side, next to the fenderwell.
4 Disconnect the refrigerant suction line from the compressor by
unbolting it. Note: The refrigerant lines do not detach from the
accumulator - when the accumulator is replaced, the lines must be
replaced along with it. 16.5 The refrigerant lines on the compressor are retained by
5 Plug the open fittings to prevent entry of dirt and moisture. bolts, use a wrench to remove the lines, then plug the openings
6 Using a spring-lock coupling tool (see Section 12), disconnect the on the compressor and the lines
line from the accumulator where it goes through the firewall to the
evaporator. Loosen the clamp bolt on the mounting bracket and lift the Note: The accumulator (see Section 15) should be replaced whenever
accumulator out with its attached lines. the compressor is replaced.
7 If a new accumulator is being installed, remove the Schrader 1 Have the air conditioning system discharged (see Warning above).
valve (under the pressure switch) from the old accumulator and pour 2 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
the oil out into a measuring cup, noting the amount. Add fresh 3 Disconnect the compressor clutch electrical connector (see
refrigerant oil (a type designated as compatible with refrigerant illustration).
R-134a) to the new accumulator equal to the amount removed from 4 Remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1).
the old unit, plus one ounce. 5 Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the top rear of the
8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: New R-134a compatible
compressor (see illustration). Plug the open fittings to prevent entry of
0-rings should be used in each spring-lock coupling during reassembly.
dirt and moisture.
9 Take the vehicle back to the shop that discharged it. Have the air 6 Unbolt the compressor from the mounting brackets and lift it out
conditioning system evacuated, charged and leak tested. of the vehicle.
7 If a new compressor is being installed, follow the directions with
16 Air conditioning system compressor - removal and the compressor regarding the draining of excess oil prior to instal-
lation. Note: Any replacement compressor used must be designated as
installation
compatible with refrigerant R-134a.
8 The clutch may have to be transferred from the original to the new
Refer to illustrations 16.3 and 16.5 compressor.
Warning : The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not 9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace all O-rings with new
loosen any hose fittings or remove any components until after the system ones specifically made for air conditioning system use (and compatible
has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant should be properly with refrigerant R-134a) and lubricate them with refrigerant oil. Any
discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/recycling unit at a dealer service refrigerant oil added must also be compatible with refrigerant R-134a.
department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. Always wear eye 10 Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested by the
protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings. shop that discharged it.
3-18 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

17.5a These spring-lock connections must be disconnected to 17.5b With a spring-lock connection tool in place - wiggle and
remove the condenser - first remove the metal clips (arrows) twist the two lines before trying to separate the connection

removing the metal clips over the spring-lock connections (see

illustrations). Then clean the connections and apply the spring-lock
tool. Wiggle and twist the pipes on either side of the connection and
pull them apart.
6 Remove the mounting bolts from the condenser brackets (see
illustration).
7 Lift the condenser out of the vehicle and plug the lines to keep dirt
and moisture out.
8 If the original condenser will be reinstalled, store it with the line
fittings on top to prevent oil from draining out.
9 If a new condenser is being installed, pour one ounce of
refrigerant oil into it prior to installation (an oil designated as
compatible with refrigerant R-134a). Note: New R-134a compatible Ci-
tings should be used in each spring-lock coupling during reassembly.
10 Reinstall the components in the reverse order of removal. Be sure
the rubber pads are in place under the condenser. See Section 6 or
proper location of sealing strips around the condenser and radiator.
11 Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested by the
shop that discharged it.

17.6 Mounting bolts for the condenser are reached through the
grille opening
18 Fixed orifice tube - removal and installation
17 Air conditioning system condenser - removal and
installation General information
The fixed orifice tube assembly is the restriction between the
Refer to illustrations 17.5a, 17.5b and 17.6 high-pressure and low-pressure liquid refrigerant. It meters the flow of
liquid refrigerant into the evaporator core.
Warning 1: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is
Evaporator temperature is controlled by sensing the pressure
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
inside the evaporator core with a pressure-operated electric switch
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the
The switch controls compressor operation to keep the evaporator
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components.
within the required pressure limits.
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before
If, when the system is checked with the appropriate gauges, the
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully
high-pressure reads extremely high and low-pressure reads almost a
discharge). For more information see Section 28 in Chapter 12.
vacuum, the fixed orifice tube is plugged and must be replaced.
Warning 2: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not
loosen any hose fittings or remove any components until after the system
has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant should be properly Replacement
discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/recycling unit at a dealer service Refer to illustration 18.3
department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. Always wear eye Note: Special spring-lock coupling tools are required to release the
protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings. connectors used on the refrigerant lines throughout the air conditioning
Note: The accumulator (Section 15) should be replaced whenever the system.
condenser is replaced. 1 Disconnect the cable at the negative battery terminal.
1 Have the air conditioning system discharged (see Warning above). 2 Disconnect the liquid line from the condenser to the evaporator
2 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. core at the firewall using a spring-lock coupling tool (see Section 5).
3 Remove the radiator grille (see Chapter 11). 3 Disconnect the other end of the liquid line at the condenser, and
4 Remove the radiator (see Section 6). remove the line from the vehicle. Note: The fixed orifice tube is an
5 Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the condenser by first integral part of this liquid line (see illustration/ and the line/orifice tube
 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-19

18.3 The fixed orifice tube (arrow) is an integral part of the line to 19.4 Remove the center adapter heat duct, allowing access to the
the evaporator last screw (arrow)

are replaced as a unit. system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant should be
4 Cap or plug the refrigerant openings immediately to prevent any properly discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/recycling unit at a
dirt or excessive moisture from entering the system. dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair
5 Reinstall the new line/orifice tube. Note: New R-134a compatible facility. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air
0-rings should be used in each spring-lock coupling during reassembly. conditioning system fittings.
6 Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak-tested by a 1 Disconnect the cable at the negative battery terminal.
dealer service department or an air conditioning repair facility. 2 Remove the heater/air conditioning unit from under the dash area
(see Section 12).
3 Turn the heater/air conditioning unit upside down and remove the
19 Air conditioning system evaporator - removal and retaining screws retaining the two halves together.
installation 4 Remove the center adapter heat duct (see illustration), and
remove the screw.
Refer to illustration 19.4 5 Turn the heater/air conditioning unit over, carefully, and remove
Warning 1: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is the upper half of the housing.
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To 6 Remove the evaporator from the lower housing.
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the 7 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. If the
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components. evaporator was replaced with a new unit, add 2 ounces of refrigerant
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before oil (of a type designated as compatible with refrigerant R-134a) to the
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully system. Note: New R-134a compatible O-rings should be used in each
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12. spring-lock coupling during reassembly.
Warning 2: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO 8 Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested by a
NOT loosen any fittings or remove any components until after the dealer service department or an air conditioning repair facility.
3-20 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Notes