2А-1

Chapter 2 Part A
Inline six-cylinder engine
Contents

Section Section
Air filter and CCV filter replacement ................................See Chapter 1 General information ....................................................................... 1
Camshaft, bearings and lifters - removal, inspection Intake/exhaust manifolds - removal and installation...................... 7
and installation......................................................................... 11 Oil pan - removal and installation ................................................... 12
CHECK ENGINE light......................................................See Chapter 6 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation............................. 13
Compression check ..................................................... See Chapter 2C Rear main oil seal - replacement ................................................... 15
Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement........................................... 9 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle............. 2
Cylinder head - removal and installation ........................................ 8 Rocker arms and pushrods - removal, inspection and
Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement.................See Chapter 1 installation ................................................................................ 5
Engine - removal and installation.................................. See Chapter 2C Timing cover, chain and sprockets - inspection, removal
Engine mounts - check and replacement ...................................... 16 and installation ......................................................................... 10
Engine oil and filter change.............................................See Chapter 1 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating.............. 3
Engine oil level check......................................................See Chapter 1 Valve cover • removal and installation .......................................... 4
Engine overhaul - general information .......................... See Chapter 2C Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement .......................... 6
Rywheel/driveplate - removal and installation ................................ 14 Water pump - removal and installation ...........................See Chapter 3

Specifications

General
Displacement .......................................................................................... 243 cu. in (4.0 liters)
Cylinder numbers (front-to-rear).............................................................. 1-2-3-4-5-6
Firing order.............................................................................................. 1-5-3-6-2-4

Camshaft
Lobe lift (intake and exhaust)................................................................... 0.253 inch
Endplay ....................................................................................... None
Journal diameter
No.1 .................................................................................................. 2.029 to 2.030 inches
No.2.............................................................................................. 2.019 to 2.020 inches
No.3.............................................................................................. 2.009 to 2.010 inches
No. 4 ............................................................................................. 1.999 to 2.000 inches
Journal-to-bearing (oil) clearance............................................................ 0.001 to 0.003 inch Cylinder location and distributor rotation
Oil pump
Gear-to cover clearance ......................................................................... 0.002 to 0.006 inch
Gear-to-body clearance ......................................................................... 0.002 to 0.004 inch
2А-2 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine

Torque Specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Camshaft sprocket bolt...........................................................................- 80
Crankshaft pulley-to-vibration damper bolts ........................................... 20
Cylinder head bolts
Step A ............................................................................................... 22
Step В ............................................................................................... 45
Step С
Bolt no- 11..................................................................................... 100
All other bolts ............................................................................... 110
Flywheel/driveplate bolts......................................................................... 105
Intake and exhaust manifold retaining bolts and nuts ............................. 24
No. 6 and 7 exhaust manifold bolts .................................................. 17
All other bolts/nuts............................................................................. 24
Oil pan mounting bolts
1/4x20 ......................................................................................... 120in-lbs
5/16 x 18 ....................................................................................... 156 in-lbs
Oil pump mounting bolt
Short .................................................................................................. 120 in-lbs
Long................................................................................................... 204 in-lbs
Rear main bearing cap bolts.................................................................... 80
Rocker arm bolts..................................................................................... 21
Valve cover-to-cylinder head bolts
1993................................................................................................... 75 in-lbs
1994................................................................................................... 85 in-lbs
1995 and later.................................................................................... 115 in-lbs
Tensioner bracket-to-block bolts ............................................................ 14
Timing chain cover-to-block
1/4 x 20......................................................................................... 60 in-lbs
5/16x18 ....................................................................................... 192 in-lbs
Vibration damper center bolt (lubricated)................................................. 80

motor, the alternator, the distributor and the fuel system components
1 General information can be removed for repair with the engine in place.
Since the cylinder heads can be removed without pulling the
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-vehicle repair procedures engine, valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the
for the 4.0L inline six-cylinder engine. All information concerning engine in the vehicle. Replacement of the camshaft and timing chain
engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head and sprockets is also possible with the engine in the vehicle.
overhaul can be found in Part С of this Chapter. In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment,
The following repair procedures are based on the assumption that repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod
the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this
from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, many of the steps outlined in practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and preparation
this Part of Chapter 2 will not apply. work that must be done to the components involved.
The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to
the procedures contained in this Part. Part С of Chapter 2 contains the
Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding. 3 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston -
locating

2 Repair operations possible with the engine in the Refer to illustrations 3.4, 3.6 and 3.7
vehicle 1 Top Dead Center (TDC) is the highest point in the cylinder that
each piston reaches as it travels up-and-down when the crankshaft
Many major repair operations can be accomplished without turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the compression stroke and again
removing the engine from the vehicle. on the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on
Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the enoine with the compression stroke. The timing marks on the vibration damper
some type of pressure washer before any work is done. It will make the {see illustration 3.6) installed on the front of the crankshaft are refer-
job easier and help keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine. enced to the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke.
Remove the hood, if necessary, to improve access to the engine 2 Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an essential part of many
as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). procedures such as rocker arm removal, valve adjustment, timing
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need chain and sprocket replacement and distributor removal,
for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with 3 In order to bring any piston to TDC, the crankshaft must be turned
the engine in the vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, using one of the methods outlined below. When looking at the front of
timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder the engine, normal crankshaft rotation is clockwise. Warning: Before
head gaskets are all accessible with the engine in place. beginning this procedure, be sure to place the transmission in Neutral
Exterior engine components, such as the intake and exhaust and pull off and ground the coil wire attached to the center terminal of
manifolds, the oil pan (and the oil pump), the water pump, the starter the distributor cap to disable the ignition system.
 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine 2A-3

3.4 Locate the number one spark plug 3.6 Align the notch (arrow) on the 3.7 Remove the distributor cap and
terminal on the distributor cap, then make vibration damper with the "0" verify that the rotor is pointing
a mark on the distributor housing directly on the timing chain cover at the mark (arrow)
under the number one plug terminal

4.1 Location of the CCV and crankcase 4.3 Disconnect the accelerator, kickdown 4.4 Use a soft-face mallet to break the
ventilation hoses (arrows) and cruise cables from the throttle body, cover loose - DO NOT pry between
remove them from the valve cover the cover and head
clips (arrow) and lay them aside

a,) The preferred method is to turn the crankshaft with a large socket crankshaft one complete turn (360-degrees) clockwise. The rotor
and breaker-bar attached to the vibration damper bolt threaded should now be pointing at the mark. When the rotor is pointing at the
into the front of the crankshaft. number one spark plug wire terminal in the distributor cap (which is
b) A remote starter switch, which may save some time, can also be indicated by the mark on the housing) and the ignition timing marks are
used. Attach the switch leads to the S (switch) and В (battery) aligned, the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
terminals on the starter motor. Once the piston is close to TDC, 9 After the number one piston has been positioned at TDC on the
use a socket and breaker bar as described in the previous compression stroke, TDC for any of the remaining cylinders can be
paragraph. located by turning the crankshaft and following the firing order (refer to
c) If an assistant is available to turn the ignition switch to the Start the Specifications).
position in short bursts, you can get the piston close to TDC
without a remote starter switch. Use a socket and breaker bar as
described in Paragraph a) to complete the procedure. 4 Valve cover - removal and installation
4 Using a felt pen, make a mark on the distributor housing directly
below the number one spark plug wire terminal on the distributor cap Refer to illustrations 4.1, 4.3 and 4.4
(see illustration). Note: The terminal numbers marked on the spark 1 Remove the CCV hose and crankcase ventilation tube and hose
plug wires near the distributor are usually found on Original Equipment from the valve cover (see illustration).
Manufactured (OEM) spark plug wires. So label the wires before 2 Remove the wire loom clips, noting the locations of their studs for
removal, if numbering isn't found. reinstallation.
5 Remove the distributor cap as described in Chapter 1. 3 Remove the accelerator cable, kickdown cable and cruise-control
6 Turn the crankshaft (see Paragraph 3 above) until the groove on cable from the snap-in clips on top of the valve cover (see illus-
the vibration damper is aligned with the 0 or TDC mark (see illus- tration), disconnect them at the throttle body and lay them aside.
tration). The pointer or TDC mark and vibration damper are located 4 Remove the valve cover retaining bolts and lift the cover off. If the
low on the front of the engine, near the pulley that turns the drivebelt. cover is stuck, tap on it gently with a soft-face mallet (see illustration).
7 The rotor should now be pointing directly at the mark on the Do not pry on the gasket flange.
distributor housing (see illustration). If it isn't, the piston is at TDC on 5 Clean the sealing surfaces, removing any traces of oil with
the exhaust stroke. lacquer thinner or acetone and a clean rag. Note: These covers have a
8 To get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke, turn the reusable, pre-cured RTV gasket that is attached to the cover.
2А-4 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine

5.3 Rocker arm components

A Bolt С Fulcrum
5.2 Alternating between the intake and exhaust rocker arms, В Bridge D Rocker arm
loosening each bolt 1/4-turn at a time

5.4 Store the pushrods in a box like this to ensure reinstallation 6.4 This is what the air-hose adapter that threads into
in the same location the spark plug hole looks like - they're commonly
available in auto parts stores

6 Small cracks in the pre-cured gasket are allowable and can be 4 Remove the pushrods and store them separately to make sure
repaired by applying RTV sealer to the cracked area before the cover is they don't get mixed up during installation (see illustration).
installed.
7 Install the cover and bolts. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in Inspection
this Chapter's Specifications. 5 Inspect each rocker arm for wear, cracks and other damage,
8 Reinstall the crankcase breather hoses and cruise control servo, if especially where the pushrods and valve stems contact the rocker arm
equipped. faces. Inspect the fulcrum seat in each rocker arm and the fulcrum
9 Run the engine and check for oil leaks. faces. Look for galling, stress cracks and unusual wear patterns. If the
rocker arms are worn or damaged, replace them with new ones and
install new fulcrums as well.
5 Rocker arms and pushrods - removal, inspection and 6 Make sure the oil hole at the pushrod end of each rocker arm is
installation open.
7 Inspect the pushrods for cracks and excessive wear at the ends.
Roll each pushrod across a piece of plate (flat) glass to see if it's bent
Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3 and 5.4 (if it wobbles, it's bent).

Removal Installation
1 Remove the rocker arm cover (see Section 4). 8 Lubricate the lower end of each pushrod with clean engine oil or
2 Beginning at the front of the cylinder head, loosen and remove the engine assembly lube and install it in its original location. Make sure
rocker arm mounting bolts in pairs (see illustration). each pushrod seats completely in the lifter socket.
3 Remove the rocker arms, bridges and fulcrums (see illustration) 9 Bring the number one piston to top dead center on the
and store them with their respective mounting bolts. Store each set of compression stroke (Section 3).
rocker arm components separately in a marked plastic bag to ensure 10 Apply clean engine oil or engine assembly lube to the ends of the
they are reinstalled in their original locations. The bridges may be valve stems and the upper ends of the pushrods before placing the
reinstalled in any location. rocker arms in position.
 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine 2A-5

VALVE LOCKS

RETAINER

VALVE
SPRING
VALVE STEM
OIL SEAL

INTAKE
VALVE
6.9 Once the spring is compressed, the keepers can be removed
with a small magnet or needle-nose pliers (a magnet
is preferred to prevent dropping the keepers)
EXHAUST
VALVE
11 Apply clean engine oil or engine assembly lube to the fulcrums to
prevent damage to the mating surfaces before engine oil pressure 6.10 Valves, springs, seals and related components
builds up. Install the rocker arms, fulcrums, bridges and bolts in their
original locations. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this from retaining the valves - if that's the case, the head will have to be
Chapter's Specifications. removed for repair.
12 Install the rocker arm cover (see Section 4). 8 If you don't have access to compressed air, an alternative method
13 Start the engine, listen for unusual valve train noises and check can be used. Position the piston at a point approximately 45-degrees
for oil leaks at the rocker arm cover joint. before TDC on the compression stroke, then feed a long piece of nylon
rope through the spark plug hole until it fills the combustion chamber.
Be sure to leave the end of the rope hanging out of the engine so it can
6 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement be removed easily. Use a large ratchet and socket to rotate the
crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until slight resistance is
Refer to illustrations 6.4, 6.9, 6.10 and 6.17 felt.
Note: Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be 9 Stuff shop rags into the cylinder-head holes near the valves to
replaced without removing the cylinder heads. Two special tools and a prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine, then use a valve
compressed air source are normally required to perform this operation, spring compressor to compress the spring. Remove the keepers with
so read through this Section carefully and rent or buy the tools before small needle-nose pliers or a magnet (see illustration). Note: A couple
beginning the job. If compressed air isn't available, a length of nylon of different types of tools are available for compressing the valve
rope can be used to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder during springs with the head in place. One type, shown here, grips the lower
this procedure. spring coils and presses on the retainer as the knob is turned, while the
1 Remove the valve cover from the cylinder head (see Section 4). other type utilizes the rocker arm bolt for leverage. Both types work
2 Remove the spark plug from the cylinder which has the defective very well, although the lever type is usually less expensive.
component. If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of the 10 Remove the spring retainer or rotator, sleeve (used on some
spark plugs should be removed. intake valves) and valve spring assembly, then remove the valve guide
3 Turn the crankshaft until the piston in the affected cylinder is at seal (see illustration).
Top Dead Center on the compression stroke (see Section 3). If you're 11 Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so
replacing all of the valve stem seals, begin with cylinder number one the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release the air
and work on the valves for one cylinder at a time. Move from cylinder- pressure. Note: If a rope was used instead of air pressure, turn the
to-cylinder following the firing order sequence (see this Chapter's crankshaft slightly in the direction opposite normal rotation.
Specifications). 12 Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide
4 Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole (see illustration) and and check the end for eccentric movement, which would indicate that
connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Most auto the valve is bent.
parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Note: Many cylinder 13 Move the valve up-and-down in the guide and make sure it
compression gauges utilize a screw-in fitting that may work with your doesn't bind. If the valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or the
air hose quick-disconnect fitting. guide is damaged. In either case, the head will have to be removed for
5 Remove the rocker arms, bridges and fulcrums for the cylinder repair.
with the defective parts and pull out the pushrods. If all of the valve 14 Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to retain the valve in the
stem seals are being replaced, all of the rocker arms, bridges, fulcrums closed position, then remove the tape or rubber band from the valve
and pushrods should be removed (see Section 5). stem. If a rope was used instead of air pressure, rotate the crankshaft
6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder. Warning: The piston may in the normal direction of rotation until slight resistance is felt.
be forced down by compressed air, causing the crankshaft to turn 15 Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil and the valve stem tip
suddenly. If the wrench used when positioning the number one piston with engine assembly lube, then install a new guide seal, lightly
at TDC is still attached to the bolt in the crankshaft nose, it could cause pushing the seal over the valve stem until it seats on the valve guide
damage or injury when the crankshaft moves. boss. Caution: Install seals carefully to prevent damage from the sharp
7 The valves should be held in place by the air pressure. If the valve edges of the valve keeper grooves.
faces or seats are in poor condition, leaks may prevent air pressure .
2А-6 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine

6.17 Apply a small dab of grease to the 7.4 Disconnect the accelerator, 7.5 Label the connections before
keepers before installation - it will hold transmission and cruise control cables detaching them
them in place on the valve stem as the (arrows) from the throttle body
spring is released

16 Install the spring in position over the valve.

17 Install the valve spring retainer or rotator. Compress the valve
spring and carefully position the keepers in the groove. Apply a small
dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place (see illus-
tration).
18 Remove the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the
keepers are seated.
19 Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark
plug hole. If a rope was used in place of air pressure, pull it out of the
cylinder.
20 Install the pushrods, rocker arms, pivots and bridges (see
Section 5).
21 Install the spark plugs and connect the spark plug wires (see
Chapter 1).
22 Install the valve cover (see Section 4).
23 Start and run the engine, then check for oil leaks and unusual
sounds coming from the valve cover area.

7 Intake/exhaust manifolds - removal and installation 7.10 Four of the intake manifold mounting fasteners (arrows) can
be accessed from the top - you must reach below the manifold to
Refer to illustrations 7.4, 7.5, 7.10 and 7.18 remove the remaining four
Warning: Allow the engine to cool completely before following this
procedure. 11 Pull the manifold away from the engine slightly to disengage it
Note: Since the intake and exhaust manifolds share a common gasket, from the locating dowels in the cylinder head, then lift the manifold out
they must be removed and replaced at the same time. All studs and of the engine compartment.
bolts should be soaked with penetrating oil before beginning manifold 12 Remove the two bolts and nuts that secure the exhaust manifold
removal. to the exhaust pipe and detach the pipe from the manifold. Discard the
exhaust manifold seal ring.
Removal 13 Remove the exhaust manifold.
1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.
2 Apply penetrating oil to the threads of the exhaust manifold Installation
attaching studs and the exhaust pipe-to-manifold attaching bolts. 14 Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces, removing all traces
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4). of old gasket material.
4 Detach the accelerator cable, transmission control cable 15 If the manifold is being replaced, make sure all the fittings, etc.
(automatic transmission-equipped models), and cruise-control cables are transferred to the replacement manifold.
(if equipped) from the throttle body (see illustration). 16 Position a new gasket on the cylinder head, using the locating
5 Label and then disconnect all vacuum and electrical connectors dowels to hold it in place. Install the exhaust manifold and hand tighten
on the intake manifold (see illustration). the nuts.
6 Relieve the fuel pressure and then disconnect the fuel supply and 17 Position the intake manifold loosely on the cylinder head.
return lines from the fuel rail assembly (see Chapter 4). Cap the open 18 Install the manifold retaining bolts and tighten all fasteners in
ends. sequence (see illustration) to the torque listed in this Chapter's Speci-
7 Loosen the serpentine drivebelt (see Chapter 1). fications. Note that the end bolts require a different torque.
8 Remove the power steering pump and bracket from the intake 19 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal,
manifold and set it aside without disconnecting the hoses. Be sure to using a new exhaust manifold seal ring at the exhaust pipe connection.
leave the pump in an upright position so fluid won't spill. Caution: Before connecting the fuel lines to the fuel rail, replace the
9 Remove the fuel rail and injectors (see Chapter 4). O-rings in the quick-connect fuel line couplings (see Chapter 4).
10 Remove the intake manifold bolts/nuts (see illustration). 20 Run the engine and check for fuel, vacuum and exhaust leaks.
 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine 2A-7

7.18 Intake/exhaust manifold bolt/nut tightening sequence 8.11 Set the compressor aside with the refrigerant lines still
attached - then remove the upper bracket bolts (arrows)

11 Disconnect the wiring harness and unbolt the air-conditioning

compressor (if equipped) without disconnecting the refrigerant hoses.
Set the compressor aside and remove the upper two bolts from the
bracket (see illustration).
12 Label the spark plug wires and remove the distributor cap with
the wires attached. Remove the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1.
13 Disconnect the wire from the coolant temperature-sensor, which
is at the front of the engine, in the thermostat housing (see Chapter 3).
Also disconnect the battery ground cable, which is on the right side of
the engine.
14 Remove the ignition coil and bracket assembly (see Chapter 5).
15 Unclip the heater hoses along the passenger side of the valve
cover, undo the hose clamps at the front and lay the hoses out of the
way.
16 Remove the cylinder head bolts and lift the head off the engine. If
the head sticks to the engine, insert a prybar into an exhaust port and
pry gently to break the seal. Note: Bolt number 14 (see illustration
8.22) cannot be removed completely until the head is moved forward.
Pull the bolt up as far as you can and hold it up by applying masking
tape around it, then pull the head forward and remove the bolt.
8.19 Install the head gasket with the TOP mark facing up

Installation
17 Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces, removing all traces
8 Cylinder head - removal and installation
of old gasket material. Stuff shop towels into each cylinder so material
doesn't fall in.
Refer to illustrations 8.11, 8.19 and 8.22 18 Inspect the head for cracks and warpage. See Chapter 2, Part C,
Caution: Allow the engine to cool completely before following this for cylinder head servicing information. Use a straightedge against the
procedure. head and the block to check for warpage. If a feeler gauge of greater
than .008-in. fits under the straightedge (when measuring the whole
Removal length of head or block) the head or block must be resurfaced. If you
1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. are replacing the cylinder head, be sure to transfer all fittings, etc. to
2 Drain the coolant from the radiator and the engine block (see the new head.
Chapter 1). 19 Position the new head gasket on the engine block with the word
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4). TOP facing up (see illustration). Do not use any sealing compound on
4 Detach the fuel pipe and vacuum-advance hose. the gasket.
5 Remove the valve cover (see Section 4). 20 Apply masking tape to bolt number 14 as during removal, and
6 Remove the rocker arms and pushrods (see Section 5). install it in the head. Install the cylinder head on the engine block, and
7 Unbolt the power-steering pump bracket (if equipped) and set the remove the tape from the bolt.
pump aside without disconnecting the hoses. Leave the pump upright 21 Coat the threads of bolt number 11 (see illustration 8.22) with
so fluid doesn't spii: Loctite 592 sealant (or equivalent) and install the head bolts hand tight.
8 Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds (see Sections 7 and 8). Note: The head bolts can be reused only once (original use plus one
9 Remove the bracket on the cylinder head that supports the idler reuse). Clean each bolt head and mark it with a dab of paint. If the bolts
pulley for the air-conditioning compressor drivebelt (if equipped). in your engine are already marked with paint, replace them with new
10 Loosen the alternator drivebelt and remove the alternator ones.
bracket/cylinder head mounting bolt. 22 Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence (see illustration),
2А-8 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine

8.22 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - be sure to coat

the threads of bolt no. 11 (arrow) with Loctite 592 sealant
(or equivalent)

9.6 Install two bolts in the damper and use them to keep the
according to the following procedure:
crankshaft from rotating
Step A - tighten all bolts (1 through 14) in sequence to the
specified torque for Step A.
Step В - tighten all bolts in sequence to the specified torque for 7 Using a vibration damper removal tool (see illustration), pull the
Step B. damper off the crankshaft.
Step С - tighten all bolts except no. 11 to the specified torque for 8 Clean and inspect the area on the center hub of the damper
Step C. where the front oil seal contacts it. Minor imperfections can be cleaned
Caution: In Step C, bolt no. 11 is tightened to a lower torque than the up with emery cloth. If there is a groove worn in the hub, replace the
rest of the bolts. Do not overtighten it. Tighten bolt no. 11 to the vibration damper or have a machine shop install a special sleeve on
specified torque for Step C. the hub to restore the contact surface.
23 Reinstall the remaining components in the reverse order of 9 Carefully pry the oil seal out of the timing chain cover with a seal
removal. removal tool or screwdriver (see illustration). Don't scratch the cover
24 Add coolant and run the engine, checking for proper operation bore or damage the crankshaft in the process (if the crankshaft is
and coolant and oil leaks. damaged the new seal will end up leaking).
10 Clean the bore in the cover and coat the outer edge of the new
seal with engine oil or multi-purpose grease. Using a socket with an
9 Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement outside diameter slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal,
carefully drive the new seal into place with a hammer (see illustration).
If a socket isn't available, a short section of large-diameter pipe will
Refer to illustrations 9.6, 9.7, 9.9 and 9.10
work. Check the seal after installation to be sure that the spring didn't
1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. pop out of place.
2 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on 11 Apply clean engine oil to the seal contact surface of the damper
jackstands. hub.
3 Remove the shield mounted below the front of the engine. 12 Align the key slot of the vibration damper hub with the crankshaft
4 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1). key and tap the damper onto the crankshaft with a soft-face mallet.
5 Remove the radiator and cooling fan(s) as described in Chapter 3. 13 Install the vibration damper bolt and tighten it to the torque listed
6 Remove the vibration damper retaining bolt and washer. Note: Го in this Chapter's Specifications.
prevent the crankshaft from rotating, place two 5/16 x 1-1/2 inch long 14 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
bolts into the damper holes and hold a prybar between them (see illus- 15 Run the engine and check for leaks.
tration). Rotate the crankshaft until the bar contacts the frame.

9.7 Use a vibration damper removal tool 9.9 Pry the old seal out with a seal 9.10 Gently drive the new seal into place
such as this one - do not use a gear puller removal tool (shown here) or a with a hammer and large socket
with jaws; it will damage the damper screwdriver
 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine 2A-9

10.8 Slip the oil slinger off the crankshaft, noting that the 10.10 With the number one piston at Top Dead Center,
cupped side faces away from the engine, and the timing chain sprocket index dots (arrows)
reinstall the vibration damper bolt are directly opposite each other

10 Timing cover, chain and sprockets - inspection, the vibration damper bolt. Using this bolt, rotate the crankshaft
clockwise just enough to take up the slack on one side of the chain.
removal and installation
9 Establish a reference point on the block. Move the slack side of
the chain from side-to-side with your fingers and measure the
Cover removal movement. The difference between the two measurements is the
1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. deflection. If the deflection exceeds 1/2-inch, replace the timing chain
2 Remove the fan, fan shroud and water pump pulley (see Chapter 3). and sprockets.
3 Remove the crankshaft vibration damper (see Section 9).
4 Remove the air conditioning compressor and alternator and set Timing chain removal
them aside without disconnecting the wiring or hoses. Remove any Refer to illustrations 10.10, 10.11 and 10.12
brackets connected to the timing chain cover. 10 Align the sprocket timing marks (see illustration).
5 Remove the oil pan-to-timing chain cover bolts and timing chain 11 Remove the camshaft thrust pin and spring and the sprocket-
cover-to-engine block bolts. retaining bolt and washer (see illustration).
6 Separate the timing chain cover from the engine. If necessary, tap 12 Pull the crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket and timing chain
on it gently with a soft-face mallet to break the seal. Temporarily stuff a off as an assembly (see illustration). Caution: Do not turn the
rag into the oil pan opening to prevent entry of debris. crankshaft or camshaft while the timing chain is removed.
7 Clean the mating surfaces of the timing chain cover and engine
block, removing all traces of oil and old gasket material. Installation
Timing chain inspection Refer to illustrations 10.1 За, 10.13b, 10.16 and 10.22
13 Be sure the crankshaft key is still pointing up. Note the locations
Refer to illustration 10.8
8 Slip the oil slinger off the crankshaft {see illustration) and reinstall

CHAIN

10.11 Remove the thrust pin and spring (arrow), then remove the
bolt in the center of the camshaft sprocket - put a large
screwdriver through one of the holes in the sprocket 10.12 Remove and install the chain and
to keep it from turning while loosening the bolt sprockets as an assembly
2А-10 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine

10.13a Note that the engine side of the camshaft 10.13b . . . for the camshaft locating dowel (arrow) - be sure they
sprocket has a hole (arrow)... are aligned properly during installation

10.22 Use the vibration damper to center the timing chain

cover during installation

engine block gasket and position the gasket on the engine.

10.16 To verify correct installation, turn the crankshaft clockwise 19 Check for tears or deformation of the one-piece oil pan gasket
until the timing marks are positioned as shown and count before installing the timing cover. If the gasket is damaged, it must be
the pins between the marks replaced (see Section 13) before reinstalling the timing cover. It is
suggested that the oil pan gasket be replaced to ensure a leak-free job
of the locating dowel on the camshaft and the corresponding hole in (see Section 12).
the cam sprocket (see illustrations). 20 Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to both sides of the new cover
14 Pre-assemble the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket and camshaft gasket and the corners of the pan and block, then position the new
sprocket with the timing marks aligned and facing out. Slip the cover gasket on the engine. The sealant will hold it in place. Note: If
assembly onto the engine in such a way that a line drawn through the the oil pan has been removed for replacement of the pan gasket, install
timing marks will also pass through the centers of the sprockets. the front cover before the oil pan and it's gaskets are installed.
15 Install the camshaft sprocket bolt and tighten it to the torque 21 Position the timing chain cover on the engine block.
listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Reinstall the thrust pin and 22 Use the vibration damper to center the timing chain cover (see
spring. illustration). Leave the old oil seal in place, as it may be damaged
16 To verify the correct installation of the timing chain, turn the during installation.
crankshaft clockwise until the camshaft sprocket timing mark is at the 23 Install the timing chain cover-to-block and oil pan-to-cover bolts
one o'clock position. This positions the crankshaft sprocket timing and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
mark where the adjacent tooth meshes with the chain at the three 24 Replace the crankshaft front oil seal (see Section 9).
o'clock position. There must be 15 chain pins between the sprocket 25 With the key inserted in the crankshaft, install the vibration
timing marks (see illustration). damper as described in Section 9.
17 Install the crankshaft oil slinger on the crankshaft with the cupped 26 Reinstall the remaining components in the reverse order of
side facing out. removal.
18 Apply RTV sealer to both sides of the new timing chain cover-to- 27 Run the engine and check for oil leaks.
 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine 2A-11

11.3 When checking the camshaft lobe lift, the dial indicator 11.16 Remove the lifters with a magnetic pick-up tool (shown
plunger must be positioned directly above the pushrod here) or a special lifter removal tool

must be at TDC on the compression stroke for this procedure, work

from cylinder-to-cylinder following the firing order sequence.
8 After the check is complete, compare the results to this Chapter's
Specifications. If camshaft lobe lift is less than specified, cam lobe
wear has occurred and a new camshaft should be installed.
Camshaft removal
Refer to illustrations 11.16 and 11.18
Warning 1: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components,
including crash sensors that may be located near the grille/front
bumper area. After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes
before beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must
fully discharge). For more information see Chapter 12.
Warning 2: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not
loosen any hose fittings or remove any components until after the system
11.18 Support the camshaft near the block as you slowly has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant should be properly
withdraw it - it helps to use a long bolt in the discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/recycling unit at a dealer service
sprocket-bolt hole as a handle department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. Always wear eye
protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.
9 If equipped with air conditioning, have the air conditioning system
discharged at a dealer service department or automotive air condi-
11 Camshaft, bearings and lifters - removal, inspection tioning repair facility. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery
and installation terminal.
10 Drain the cooling system, remove the radiator, fan and fan shroud
(see Chapter 3).
Camshaft lobe lift check 11 Remove the grille (see Chapter 11).
Refer to illustration 11.3 12 On air-conditioned models, remove the condenser (see Chapter 3).
1 In order to determine the extent of cam lobe wear, the lobe lift 13 Label and then remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs.
should be checked prior to camshaft removal. Remove the valve cover 14 Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5).
(see Section 4). 15 Remove the cylinder head (see Section 8).
2 Position the number one piston at TDC on the compression 16 Remove the valve lifters (see illustration) and store them
stroke (see Section 3). separately so they can be reinstalled in the same bores.
3 Beginning with the number one cylinder, mount a dial-indicator on 17 Remove the timing chain and sprockets (see Section 10).
the engine and position the plunger in-line with and resting on the first 18 Carefully pull the camshaft out. Temporarily install a long bolt, if
rocker arm (see illustration). necessary, to use as a handle. Support the cam so the lobes don't nick
4 Zero the dial indicator, then very slowly turn the camshaft in the or gouge the bearings as the cam is withdrawn (see illustration).
normal direction of rotation until the indicator needle stops and begins
to move in the opposite direction. The point at which it stops indicates Inspection
maximum cam lobe lift. Refer to illustration 11.20
5 Record this figure for future reference, then reposition the piston 19 After the camshaft has been removed from the engine, cleaned
at TDC on the compression stroke. with solvent and dried, inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear,
6 Move the dial indicator to the next number one cylinder rocker pitting and evidence of seizure. If the journals are damaged, the
arm and repeat the check. Be sure to record the results for each valve. bearing inserts in the block are probably damaged also. Both the
7 Repeat the check for the remaining valves. Since each piston camshaft and bearings will have to be replaced.
2А-12 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine

11.20 Use a micrometer to accurately measure the lobes and 12.11 Mark the locations of the studs with paint to
bearing journals of the camshaft ensure proper reassembly

12.16 Four alignment dowels can be made from

1/4 x 1-1/2 inch bolts to ease pan installation

Installation
26 Lubricate the camshaft journals and lobes with engine assembly
lube.
12.13 Remove the oil pan from the rear by sliding it out
27 Slide the camshaft into the engine. Support the cam near the
between the axle and bellhousing
block and be careful not to scrape or nick the bearings.
28 The rest of the installation procedure is the reverse of removal.
20 If the bearing journals are in good condition, measure them with a Note: Camshafts and lifters develop a wear pattern that makes them
micrometer and record the measurements (see illustration). Measure compatible. If a new camshaft has been installed, new lifters must be
each journal at several locations around its circumference. If you get installed as well.
d iff er en t me asur e me nts at d iff er e nt l oca ti ons, th e jo ur na l is o ut of 29 Before starting and running the engine, change the oil and filter
round. (see Chapter 1).
21 Check the inside diameter of each camshaft bearing with a 30 If a new camshaft and lifters have been installed, the engine
telescoping gauge and measure the gauge with a micrometer. should be brought to operating temperature and run at a fast idle
Subtract each cam journal diameter from the corresponding camshaft for 15 to 20 minutes to "break in" the components. Then change the oil
bearing inside diameter to obtain the bearing oil clearance. and filter once more.
22 Compare the clearance for each bearing to the specifications. If it
is excessive, for any of the bearings, have new bearings installed by an
automotive machine shop.
12 Oil pan - removal and installation
23 Inspect the distributor drive gear for wear. Replace the camshaft
if the gear is worn. Refer to illustrations 12.11, 12.13 and 12.16
24 Inspect the camshaft lobes for heat discoloration, score marks,
chipped areas, pitting and uneven wear. If the lobes are in good Removal
condition and if the lobe lift measurements are as specified, the 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.
camshaft can be reused. 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.
25 Ca ms haf t b ea rin g re pl ac emen t re qu ir es s pec ia l t oo ls an d 3 Remove the shield from under the front of the engine.
e xp e r t i s e t h a t p l a c e i t o u t s i d e t h e s c o p e o f t h e h o m e m e c h a n i c . 4 Drain the oil and replace the oil filter (see Chapter 1).
Remove the engine and take the block to an automotive machine shop 5 Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold and the exhaust
to ensure the job is done correctly. Note: If the camshaft appears to hanger near the catalytic converter, allow the pipe to hang down.
have been rubbing hard against the timing chain cover, first check the 6 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5).
camshaft thrust pin and spring and then examine the oil pressure relief 7 Remove the flywheel inspection cover from the front of the trans-
holes in the rear cam journal to make sure they are open. mission.
 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine 2A-13

STRIP OF PLASTIGAGE

13.2 Oil pump installation details 13.5 Place two strips of Plastigage a shown and reinstall the
cover - remove the cover and compare the width of
the crushed Plastigage against the scale

it flat with a hammer.

16 Prepare four pan alignment dowels from 1/4-inch bolts 1-1/2-
inches long. Cut off the bolt heads and slot the ends with a hacksaw
(see illustration).
17 Install the dowels in the two pan-bolt holes in the front cover, and
the rearmost pair of 1/4-inch pan-bolt holes in the block.
18 Install the one-piece oil pan gasket to the block and front cover,
over the four alignment dowels.
19 With several 1/4-inch pan bolts and a socket close at hand,
position the oil pan over the alignment dowels and against the block,
then insert and hand-tighten several bolts.
20 Install all of the 1/4-inch bolts and remove the dowels, replacing
them with bolts.
21 Install the 5/16-inch bolts, and tighten all bolts to the torque listed
in this Chapter's Specifications, working from the center out in several
steps.
22 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
23 Check that the drain plug is tight and then add the amount of oil
specified in Chapter 1.
24 Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

13.7 Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the oil 13 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation
pump gears and the pump body
Refer to illustrations 13.2, 13.5 and 13.7
8 Disconnect the oil level sensor, if equipped. Removal
9 Position a jack under the vibration damper and raise it just
1 Remove the oil pan (see Section 12).
enough to take tension off the engine mounts. Place a wood block
2 Remove the two oil pump attaching bolts from the engine block
between the jack head and the engine to protect the damper.
(see illustration).
10 Remove the engine mount through-bolts and raise the engine to
3 Detach the oil pump and strainer assembly from the block.
obtain enough clearance to remove the oil pan.
11 Mark the locations of the oil pan mounting studs (see illustration). Inspection
12 Remove the oil pan mounting bolts/studs and carefully separate
4 Remove the oil pump cover from the body.
the pan from the engine block. If the pan sticks to the block, tap the
5 Position two strips of Plastigage on the oil pump gears (see illus-
side of the pan gently with a soft-face mallet.
13 Remove the oil pan by sliding it out to the rear (see illustration). tration), reinstall the cover and tighten it to 70 in-lbs.
6 Remove the cover and compare the width of the Plastigage with
Installation the scale on the Plastigage envelope. The clearance should be no
greater than that listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
14 Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces, removing all traces of oil 7 Using feeler gauges, measure the gear-to-body clearance (see
and old gasket material. illustration). The clearance should be no greater than that listed in this
15 Check the oil pan flange for distortion and warpage. Straighten Chapter's Specifications.
the flange by placing the distorted area on a wood block and pounding
2А-14 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine

14.3 Before removing the flywheel, index 14.4 Use a prybar to hold the flywheel 15.3a Drive one side of the
it to the crankshaft with a paint mark while loosening the flywheel bolts upper seal in. . .

Installation
8 If the pump is defective, replace it with a new one. If there is any
doubt about its condition, install a new oil pump - don't reuse the
original or attempt to rebuild it.
9 Install the pump with a new gasket, turning the shaft so the gear
tang mates with the slot on the lower end of the distributor drive. The
oil pump should slide easily into place. If it doesn't, pull it off and turn
the tang until it's aligned with the distributor drive.
10 Install the pump attaching bolts. Tighten them to the torque listed
in this Chapter's Specifications.
11 Reinstall the oil pan (see Section 12).
12 Add oil, run the engine and check for leaks.

14 Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 14.3 and 14.4

Removal 15.3b ... until the other side protrudes far enough to be grasped
with needle-nose pliers and pulled out
1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then refer
to Chapter 7 and remove the transmission. If it's leaking, now would be
a very good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring (automatic align the marks made during removal. Note that some engines have an
transmission only). alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation.
2 Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc (see Chapter 8) Before installing the bolts, apply thread locking compound to the
(manual transmission equipped vehicles). Now is a good time to threads.
check/replace the clutch components and pilot bearing. 9 Wedge a screwdriver into the ring gear teeth to keep the
3 Use paint or a center punch to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate from turning (see illustration 14.4) as you tighten
flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications, in several
reinstallation (see illustration). steps and in a criss-cross pattern. Note: It helps to mark each bolt
4 Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/driveplate to the head with a chalk mark as it is tightened. When all bolts have three
crankshaft (see illustration). If the crankshaft turns, hold the flywheel marks (using three steps), the torque sequence is complete.
with a prybar or wedge a screwdriver into the ring gear teeth. 10 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal
5 Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Since the procedure.
flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last
bolt. Warning: The edges of the ring gear can be very sharp - wear
gloves or rags to protect your hands. 15 Rear main oil seal - replacement
Installation
Refer to illustrations 15.3a, 15.3b, 15.5 and 15.8
6 Clean the flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface
1 Remove the oil pan (see Section 12).
for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring
2 Remove the rear main bearing cap and pry the old seal half out of
can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring
the bearing cap with a small screwdriver.
gear teeth or a loose ring gear. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and
3 Carefully drive one side of the old upper main seal IN with a small
use a straightedge to check for warpage. If any defects are evident,
brass punch and a hammer until it protrudes sufficiently from the other
have the flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop.
side of the engine block to be gripped with needle-nose pliers and
7 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate
removed (see illustrations). Use great care to avoid damaging the
and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it
crankshaft.
before reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate (see Section 15).
4 Thoroughly clean the main bearing cap and the rear of the
8 Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft. Be sure to
block/crankshaft, removing all traces of oil and old sealer.
 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine 2A-15

15.5 Rear main seal installation details

15.8 Apply a small amount of thread-locking compound to the

rear main cap as shown before installing it on the engine

16 Engine mounts - check and replacement

Refer to illustration 16.9

1 Engine mounts seldom require attention, but broken or deterio-
rated mounts should be replaced immediately or the added strain
placed on the driveline components may cause damage or wear.

Check
2 During the check, the engine must be raised slightly to remove
the weight from the mounts.
3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then
position a jack under the engine oil pan. Place a large wood block
between the jack head and the oil pan, then carefully raise the engine
just enough to take the weight off the mounts. Warning: DO NOT place
any part of your body under the engine when it's supported only by a
jack!
16.9 Typical six-cylinder engine mount details (driver's side shown) 4 Check the mounts to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or
separated from the metal plates. Sometimes the rubber will split right
down the center.
5 Coat the lip of the new upper seal with engine oil; coat the outside 5 Check for relative movement between the mount plates and the
surface with liquid soap (see illustration). engine or frame (use a large screwdriver or prybar to attempt to move
6 Insert the seal into the groove in the engine block with the lip the mounts). If movement is noted, lower the engine and tighten the
facing forward. mount fasteners.
7 Coat both sides of the lower seal ends with RTV sealant and put 6 Rubber preservative should be applied to the mounts to slow
liquid soap on the outside of the seal (see illustration 15.5). Do not deterioration.
apply RTV sealant or soap to the seal lip. Press the seal into place in
the cap and apply a film of engine oil to the seal lip. Caution: Do not Replacement
apply sealant to the cylinder block mating surfaces of the rear main
7 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Raise the
bearing cap. Doing this would alter the bearing-to-joumal clearance.
vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.
8 Apply thread-locking compound (Loctite 518 or equivalent) to the
8 Raise the engine slightly with a jack or hoist (make sure the fan
chamfered edges of the rear main bearing cap (see illustration) and
doesn't hit the radiator or shroud).
install the cap. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's
9 Loosen the nut on the through bolt and remove the bolts that
Specifications.
secure the mount to the frame (see illustration).
9 Reinstall the remaining components in the reverse order of
removal. 10 Remove the through bolt and nut and detach the mount.
10 Add the amount of oil specified in Chapter 1, run the engine and 11 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use thread locking
check for oil leaks. compound on the mount bolts and be sure to tighten them securely.
2А-16 Chapter 2 Part A Inline six-cylinder engine

Notes
 2В-1

Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

Contents

Section Section
Camshaft and lifters - removal, inspection and installation............ 12 Oil pump - removal and installation.............................................. 14
CHECK ENGINE light ..................................................... See Chapter 6 Rear main oil seal - replacement................................................... 16
Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement .......................................... 10 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle ............. 2
Cylinder heads - removal and installation ...................................... 9 Rocker arms and pushrods - removal, inspection and installation 5
Engine mounts - check and replacement...................................... 17 Timing cover, chain and sprockets - removal, inspection
Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation ................................ 8 and installation ......................................................................... 11
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation................................ 15 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating .............. 3
General information....................................................................... 1 Valve covers - removal and installation .......................................... 4
Intake manifold - removal and installation..................................... 7 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement ........................... 6
Oil pan - removal and installation .................................................. 13

Specifications

General
Displacement .......................................................................................... 5.2L (318 cubic inches) Cylinder location and distributor
rotation diagram
Cylinder numbers (front-to-rear)
Left (driver's) side .............................................................................. 1-3-5-7
Right (passenger's) side..................................................................... 2-4-6-8
Firing order.............................................................................................. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Camshaft
Journal diameters
No. 1 (front of engine)......................................................................... 1.998 to 1.999 inches
No. 2 .................................................................................................. 1.982 to 1.983 inches
No. 3 .................................................................................................. 1.967 to 1.968 inches
No. 4 .................................................................................................. 1.951 to 1.952 inches
No. 5 (rear of engine) ......................................................................... 1.560 to 1.561 inches
Bearing inside diameter
No. 1................................................................................................... 2.000 to 2.001 inches
No. 2 .................................................................................................. 1.984 to 1.985 inches
No. 3 .................................................................................................. 1.969 to 1.970 inches
No. 4.................................................................................................. 1.953 to 1.954 inches
No. 5.................................................................................................. 1.562 to 1.563 inches
Bearing oil clearance............................................................................... 0.001 to 0.003 inch
End play
Standard ............................................................................................ 0.002 to 0.010 inch
Service limit ....................................................................................... 0.010 inch
Valve lift (intake and exhaust).................................................................. 0.432 inch

Oil pump
Oil pump cover surface variation............................................................. 0.0015 inch
Outer rotor thickness .............................................................................. 0.825 inch
Inner rotor thickness ............................................................................... 0.825 inch
Rotor-to-cover clearance........................................................................ 0.004 inch
Outer rotor-to-body clearance................................................................ 0.014 inch
Rotor tip clearance ................................................................................. 0.008 inch

Torque specifications* Ft-lbs unless otherwise indicated

Camshaft sprocket bolt ........................................................................... 50
Camshaft thrust plate bolts ..................................................................... 210in-lbs
Cylinder head bolts
Step"! ................................................................................................. 50
Step 2 ................................................................................................ 105
2В-2 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

Torque specifications (continued)* Ft-lbs unless otherwise indicated

Exhaust manifold bolts........................................................................ 20
Exhaust manifold nuts......................................................................... 15
Flywheel/driveplate bolts ................................................................... !. 105
Plenum pan bolts
Stepl ............................................................................................ 24 in-lbs
Step 2 ........................................................................................... 48 in-lbs
StepS ........................................................................................... 84 in-lbs
Intake manifold bolts
Stepl ............................................................................................ 72 in-lbs
Step 2............................................................................................ 144 in-lbs
Oil pan bolts ....................................................................................... 18
Oil pump mounting bolts ..................................................................... 30
Rocker arm bolts
5.2L ........................................................................................... 21
5.9L .............................................................................................. 200 in-lbs
Timing chain cover bolts...................................................................... 30
Main bearing cap bolts ....................................................................... 85
Pulley-to-damper bolts ....................................................................... 200 in-lbs
Valve cover
Bolts ............................................................................................. 95 in-lbs
Studs ............................................................................................ 115 in-lbs
Vibration damper-to-crankshaft bolt.................................................... 135
'Note: Refer to Part С for additional specifications

motor, the alternator, the distributor and the carburetor, as well as the
General information intake and exhaust manifolds, can be removed for repair with the
engine in place.
This part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-vehicle repair procedures Since the cylinder heads can be removed without pulling the
for the V8 engine. All information concerning engine removal and engine, valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the
installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found engine in the vehicle.
in Part С of this Chapter. Replacement of, repairs to, or inspection of the timing chain and
Since the repair procedures included in this Part are based on the sprockets and the oil pump are all possible with the engine in place.
assumption that the engine is still installed in the vehicle, if they are In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment,
being used during a complete engine overhaul (with the engine already repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod
out of the vehicle and on a stand) many of the steps included here will bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this
not apply. practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and preparation
The specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to work that must be done to the components involved.
the procedures found here. The specifications necessary for rebuilding
the block and cylinder heads are included in Part C.
The engines covered by this chapter include the 5.2 L (318 cubic 3 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston -
inches) and the 5.9L (360 cubic inches) overhead-valve V-8 with locating
hydraulic roller lifters and electronic fuel injection. The 5.9L engine is
basically the same as the 5.2 L engine with a larger bore and longer
Refer to illustration 3.1
stroke. Service procedures, and specifications, for both engines are
identical unless otherwise noted. See Chapter 2, Part A for this procedure, but refer to the illustra-
tions and specifications included in this Section.

2 Repair operations possible with the engine in the 4 Valve covers - removal and installation
vehicle

Many major repair operations can be accomplished without Removal

removing the engine from the vehicle. Refer to illustrations 4.7, and 4.8
Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.
some type of pressure washer before any work is done. A clean engine 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4).
will make the job easier and will help keep dirt out of the internal areas 3 Remove the crankcase ventilation and evaporative control hoses.
of the engine. 4 Remove the coolant tube bracket from the left valve cover.
Depending on the components involved, it may be a good idea to 5 Pulling on the boots only, remove the spark plug wires from the
remove the hood to improve access to the engine as repairs are plugs. It may be helpful to number the wires with a felt pen before
performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). disconnecting them.
If oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal 6 Remove the plastic spark plug wire holders from the valve cover
replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the studs and position the holders/wires out of the way. Caution: Pull
vehicle. The oil pan gasket, the cylinder head gaskets, intake and straight up on the plastic holders - they can easily break if pulled at an
exhaust manifold gaskets, timing cover gaskets and the crankshaft oil angle.
seals are all accessible with the engine in place. 7 Remove the valve cover mounting bolts. Note: Many of the
Exterior engine components, such as the water pump, the starter fasteners are studs, not bolts - mark the valve covers at each stud so
 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine 2B-3

3.1 Location of timing marks for TDC 4.7 Mark the valve covers to indicate the 4.8 After striking the valve cover with
location of studs a rubber mallet to break it loose,
pull it straight up

5.2 Remove the rocker-arm bolts, pivots and rocker arms 5.3 A perforated piece of cardboard can be used to store the
pushrods to ensure that they're reinstalled in their original
locations - note the arrow indicating the front of the engine
they can be installed in the proper location (see illustration).
8 Remove the valve cover (see illustration). Note: If the cover is
stuck to the head, bump the cover with a block of wood and a hammer
to release it. If it still will not come loose, try to slip a flexible putty knife 5 Rocker arms and pushrods - removal, inspection and
between the head and cover to break the seal. Don't pry at the cover- installation
to-head joint, as damage to the sealing surface and cover flange will
result and oil leaks will develop.
Removal
Installation Refer to illustrations 5.2 and 5.3
9 The mating surfaces of each cylinder head and valve cover must 1 Remove the valve covers from the cylinder heads (see Section 4).
be perfectly clean when the covers are installed. Use a gasket scraper 2 Remove the rocker arm bolts and pivots (see illustration),
to remove all traces of sealant or old gasket, then wipe the mating placing them on the bench or in a container that will keep them in the
surfaces with a cloth saturated with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there proper order.
is sealant or oil on the mating surfaces when the cover is installed, oil 3 Remove the pushrods and store them separately to make sure
leaks may develop. Note: The steel-backed silicone gaskets can be they don't get mixed up during installation(see illustration). Caution:
reused if they haven't been damaged. All valve train components must go back in their original position.
10 Make sure any threaded holes are clean. Run a tap into them to Organize and store the parts in a way that they won't get mixed up.
remove corrosion and restore damaged threads.
11 Mate the gaskets to the heads before installing the covers. Inspection
12 Carefully position the cover on the head and install the 4 Check each rocker arm for wear, cracks and other damage,
bolts/studs. especially where the pushrods and valve stems contact the rocker arm
13 Tighten the bolts/studs in three steps to the torque listed in this faces. Note: Keep in mind that there is no valve adjustment on these
Chapter's Specifications. Caution: DON'T over-tighten the valve cover engines, so excessive wear or damage in the valve train can easily
bolts. result in excessive valve clearance, which in turn will cause valve
14 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. "tapping" or "clattering" noises when the engine is running.
15 Start the engine and check carefully for oil leaks as the engine 5 Make sure the oil-feed holes in each pushrod are not plugged so
warms up. that each rocker arm gets proper lubrication.
2В-4 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

5.7 Before reinstalling pushrods and rocker arms, rotate 6.1 a Be sure to install the seals on the correct valve stems
the engine until the "V8" mark lines up with
the TDC mark on the cover 1 Exhaust seal (shield) 2 Intake seal

6 Inspect the pushrods for cracks and excessive wear at the ends.
Roll each pushrod across a piece of plate glass to see if it is bent (if it
wobbles, it is bent). Replace the pushrods if any of these conditions
are present.
Installation
Refer to illustration 5.7
7 Rotate the engine until the V8 mark on the damper lines up with
the TDC mark on the timing cover (see illustration), which is 17.5
degrees after TDC for number one piston.
8 Lubricate the lower end of each pushrod with clean engine oil or
moly-base grease and install them in their original locations. Make sure
each pushrod seats completely in the lifter socket.
9 Apply moly-base grease to the ends of the valve stems and the 6.1 b Valve spring, retainer and seal installation details
upper ends of the pushrods before positioning the rocker arms onto
the studs on the engine.
10 Install the pivot assemblies and rocker-arm bolts. Tighten the models, remove the air-conditioning compressor and set it aside.
bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Caution: Do Caution: Do not disconnect the refrigerant lines.
not rotate the engine for at least five minutes after installing the 7 Remove the three power-steering-pump mounting bolts (see
pushrods and rocker arms - the hydraulic roller tappets must "bleed illustration). Lay the pump aside, in an upright position, to avoid
down." spilling fluid.
11 Refer to Section 4 and install the valve covers. Start the engine, 8 Remove the idler pulley (it covers access to one of the bracket
listen for unusual valve train noises and check for oil leaks at the valve bolts) (see illustration). Remove the bolts securing the alternator/com-
cover joints. Caution: Do not run the engine above a fast idle until all pressor bracket to the front of the engine and remove the bracket.
the hydraulic lifters have filled with oil and become quiet again. 9 Label and then disconnect the electrical connector to each fuel
injector (see illustration). Disconnect any vacuum hoses attached to
the intake manifold or throttle body.
6 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement 10 Disconnect any remaining electrical connectors connected to the
intake manifold or throttle body and pull the whole engine wiring
Refer to illustrations 6.1a and 6.1b harness up and over the intake manifold to the rear of the engine.
This procedure is essentially the same as described in Chapter 2 11 Remove the fuel rails and injectors as an assembly (see
Part A. Use the procedures for valve cover and rocker arm removal Chapter 4). The two fuel rails can be pulled straight up with the
from this Chapter. Intake and exhaust seals may be different, so be injectors still attached, but it will take some force to dislodge the
sure to install the correct seal on the valve stem (see illustrations). injectors from the intake manifold.
12 Remove the upper radiator hose from the engine, then disconnect
the heater hose and water pump bypass hose from the intake manifold
7 Intake manifold - removal and installation (see illustration).
13 Disconnect the accelerator linkage (see Chapter 4) and, if
equipped, the cruise control linkage. On models equipped with an
Removal automatic transmission, disconnect the kickdown cable at the throttle
Refer to illustrations 7.5, 7.7, 7.8, 7.9, 7.12 and 7.18 body.
1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 14 Unlatch the two distributor-cap-retaining screws (use a 1/4-inch-
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). drive socket and proper-length extension). Disconnect the spark plug
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly. wires from the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). Feed the distributor cap
4 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4). and spark plug wires from behind the intake manifold and out of the
5 Rotate the accessory belt tensioner over enough to slip the engine compartment.
serpentine belt off the idler pulley (see illustration) and remove the belt. 15 Remove the vacuum-distribution block from the driver's side of
6 Remove the alternator (see Chapter 5). On air-conditioned the manifold and move it to the opposite side of the engine.
 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine 2B-5

7.5 With a wrench on the tensioner bolt, 7.7 Access the power steering pump 7.8 One bracket bolt is hidden under
rotate the tensioner clockwise until the mounting bolts through the the idler pulley - remove the pulley,
belt can be slipped off the idler pulley holes in the pulley the bolts and the bracket

7.9 Disconnect each fuel injector electrical connector and 7.12 Disconnect the heater hose from the manifold,
label it clearly so it can be installed on the proper and the water-pump bypass hose
injector during reassembly

16 Remove the two bolts securing the EGR tube to the passenger-
side exhaust manifold (see Section 8).
17 Remove the EGR valve from the back of the intake manifold, this
will allow access to the EGR tube fitting threaded into the rear of the
intake manifold, just below the EGR valve. Remove the EGR tube.
18 Remove the intake manifold with the throttle body attached (see
illustration). As the manifold is lifted from the engine, be sure to check
for and disconnect anything still attached to the manifold. Caution: Do
not pry between the block and manifold or the heads and manifold or
damage to the gasket-sealing surfaces may result and vacuum leaks
could develop.

Installation
Refer to illustrations 7.22, 7.23, 7.25, 7.26, 7.27 and 7.29
Note: The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads, block and manifold
must be perfectly clean when the manifold is installed. Gasket removal
solvents in aerosol cans are available at most auto parts stores and may
7.18 The intake manifold is bulky and heavy - watch for wires or
be helpful when removing old gasket material that is stuck to the heads
hoses hanging up as you remove the manifold
and manifold. Be sure to follow the directions printed on the container,
and follow cautions on ventilation and handling.
19 Scrape the carbon deposits from the EGR passage. Use a gasket cleaner to remove any gasket material that falls into the intake ports in
scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then the heads.
wipe the mating surfaces with a cloth saturated with lacquer thinner or 20 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the bolt
acetone. If there is old sealant or oil on the mating surfaces when the holes, then use compressed air (if available) to remove the debris from
manifold is installed, oil or vacuum leaks may develop. Cover the lifter the holes. Warning: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect
valley with shop rags to keep debris out of the engine. Use a vacuum your eyes when using compressed air.
2В-6 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

7.22 The gaskets must be installed on the proper side; some may 7.23 Apply RTV sealant into the "dowel" holes (arrows)
be marked left or right or manifold" side", but line up the ports for the end gaskets
and make sure the side gasket's cutouts clear the tabs on
the head gasket (arrow) front and rear
26 Reassemble the pan to the manifold, using a new gasket, and
21 Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the cylinder-head side of the hand-start all the bolts. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this
new intake manifold gaskets. Chapter's Specifications in three steps, and in the sequence shown
22 Position the side gaskets on the cylinder heads. Look to see if the (see illustration).
gaskets are marked LT for left or RT for right (see illustration), usually 27 Apply a dab of RTV sealant to the four corners of the intake
one side is marked "manifold" side. If they are, this will ensure proper gaskets on the engine (see illustration) but do not overdo it. The RTV
installation. Make sure they are installed on the correct side and all should be only slightly higher than the front and rear gaskets.
intake port openings, coolant passage holes and bolt holes are aligned 28 Carefully set the manifold in place, Caution: Do not disturb the
correctly. gaskets and DO NOT move the manifold fore-and-aft after it contacts
23 The replacement gasket set may come with plastic dowels that fit the front and rear seals or the gaskets will be pushed out of place and
into holes in the end gaskets and the front and rear of the block. If you may not notice the problem until you see an oil leak later.
dowels are included, install them. If there are no dowels, squirt some 29 Install all the intake manifold bolts and hand-tighten them. Then
RTV sealant into the holes in the block (see illustration). Apply a thin, tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications in
uniform coating of quick-dry cement to the intake manifold end seals two steps, in the sequence shown (see illustration). Note: The two
and the cylinder block contact surfaces and press the gaskets down front and two rearmost bolts are nearest the water passages and
onto the block, allowing the RTV to squish up through the holes in the should have sealant applied to the threads before installation.
gaskets. Refer to the instructions with the gasket set for further infor- 30 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. Start
mation. the engine and check carefully for oil, vacuum or coolant leaks at the
24 If the engine has more than 50,000 miles on it and you have a intake manifold joints.
complete intake gasket set, now is a good time to replace the gasket
between the manifold and the throttle body.
25 Bolted to the bottom of the manifold is the plenum pan. If
necessary, remove the pan (see illustration) and clean the gasket-
sealing surfaces thoroughly.

7.25 Remove the plenum pan under the intake manifold 7.26 Tightening sequence for the plenum pan
and clean the gasket surfaces
 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine 2B-7

7.29 Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence

7.27 Apply a small bead of RTV sealant to the four corners, where
the end gaskets meet the side gaskets

8 Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation

Removal
Refer to illustrations 8.3, 8.6, 8.7 and 8.8
Warning: Allow the engine to cool completely before beginning this
procedure.
1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.
2 Disconnect the spark plug wires and remove the spark plugs (see
Chapter 1).
3 Remove the nuts securing the exhaust heat shields, and remove
the shields (see illustration).
4 Disconnect the EGR tube from the intake manifold. 8.3 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield
5 Firmly apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels. Raise
the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.
6 Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold outlet (see illus- Installation
tration). Note: Soak the bolts with penetrating oil, as necessary, to 9 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Clean the
remove frozen exhaust-attaching bolts. manifold and head gasket surfaces. Scrape any remains of old gasket
1 On the passenger-side manifold, remove the two bolts retaining and corrosion from the EGR tube flange and its mating surface on the
the EGR tube and remove the tube (see illustration). passenger-side manifold, and install a new EGR tube gasket.
8 Loosen the outer fasteners first, then the center ones and 10 Install the fasteners. Tighten them to the torque listed in this
separate the manifold from the head (see illustration). Note: Many of Chapter's Specifications. Work from the center to the ends and
the exhaust manifold fasteners are studs, so mark their location before approach the final torque in three steps.
removal to ensure they're installed in the correct location. Also, the 11 Apply anti-seize compound to the exhaust manifold-to-exhaust
studs that retain the heat shields use large spacer washers (between pipe bolts and tighten them securely.
the studs and the shields), save these washers and mark their location.

8.6 Remove the exhaust 8.7 Remove the two bolts (arrows) 8.8 Mark the location of studs and
pipe-to-manifold bolts retaining the EGR tube to the passenger- spacers, then remove the manifold
side exhaust manifold
2В-8 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

9.6 Following the reverse order of the tightening sequence, -moved get a good hold on the
loosen all the head bolts 9.7 After all the bolts have beer from the engine block
cylinder head and remo

9.10 Remove all traces of old gasket 9.12 A die should be used to remove 9.13 Install the new head gasket over the
material - keep the intake valley sealant and corrosion from the bolt dowels at each end cylinder bank
covered with shop rags threads prior to installation

8 Cylinder head disassembly and inspection procedures are

9 Cylinder heads - removal and installation covered in detail in Chapter 2, Part C.

Installation
Removal Refer to illustrations 9.10, 9.12, 9.13, and 9.16
Refer to illustrations 9.6 and 9.7 9 The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and block must be
1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. perfectly clean when the heads are installed. Gasket removal solvents
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). are available at auto parts stores and may prove helpful.
3 Remove the valve covers (see Section 4). Remove the intake 10 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon and old
manifold (see Section 7). gasket material, then wipe the mating surfaces with a cloth saturated
4 Detach both exhaust manifolds from the cylinder heads (see with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there is oil on the mating surfaces
Section 8). when the heads are installed, the gaskets may not seal correctly and
5 Remove the rocker arm assemblies and pushrods (see Section 5). leaks may develop. When working on the block, cover the lifter valley
Caution: keep all the parts in order so they are reinstalled in their with shop rags to keep debris out of the engine (see illustration). Use
original locations. a vacuum cleaner to remove any debris that falls into the cylinders.
6 Following the reverse order of the tightening sequence (see illus- 11 Check the block and head mating surfaces for nicks, deep
tration 9.16), loosen the head bolts in 1/4-turn increments using a scratches and other damage. If damage is slight, it can be removed with
breaker-bar (see illustration) until they can be removed by hand. emery cloth. If it is excessive, machining may be the only alternative.
There are two lengths of headbolts, the shorter ones are the outside 12 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt
bolts. holes in the block. Mount each bolt in a vise and run a die down the
7 Lift the heads off the engine (see illustration). If resistance is felt, threads to remove corrosion and restore the threads (see illustration).
do not pry between the head and block as damage to the mating Dirt, corrosion, sealant and damaged threads will affect torque readings.
surfaces will result. To dislodge the head, place a block of wood 13 Position the new gaskets over the dowels in the block (see illus-
against the end of it and strike the wood block with a hammer, or lift on tration).
a casting protrusion Store the heads on blocks of wood to prevent 14 Carefully position the heads on the block without disturbing the
damage to the gasket sealing surfaces. gaskets.
 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine 2B-9

9.16 Cylinder head tightening sequence 10.4 Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts (arrows) and the large
vibration damper bolt in the center

10.6 Use a bolt-on-type puller to remove 10.7 Use a seal puller, being careful not to 10.9 Drive the new front seal into place
the vibration damper nick the crankshaft surface with a large socket and hammer

15 Before installing the head bolts, coat the threads with a non- 6 Use a vibration damper puller (commonly available from auto
hardening sealant such as Permatex No. 2, or equivalent. parts stores) to detach the vibration damper (see illustration).
16 Install the bolts in their original locations and tighten them finger Caution: Do not use a puller with jaws that grip the outer edge of the
tight. Following the recommended sequence (see illustration), tighten damper. The puller must be the type that utilizes bolts to apply force to
the bolts in several steps to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi- the damper hub only, and make sure that any adapter on the front of
cations. the tool is larger than the hole in the front of the crankshaft.
17 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. As 7 Carefully pry the seal out of the cover with a seal puller or a large
mentioned in Section 5, after tightening the rocker arms, allow the screwdriver (see illustration). Caution: Be careful not to scratch,
lifters five minutes to "bleed down" before starting the engine. gouge or distort the area that the seal fits into or a leak will develop.
18 Add coolant and change the oil and filter (see Chapter 1). Start the
engine and check for proper operation and for coolant or oil leaks. Installation
Caution: Do not run the engine above a fast idle until all the hydraulic
lifters have filled with oil and become quiet again. Refer to illustrations 10.9, and 10.10
8 Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion.
Position the new seal in the bore with the seal lip (usually the side with
10 Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement the spring) facing IN (toward the inside of the engine). A small amount
of oil applied to the outer edge of the new seal will make installation
easier - don't overdo it!
Removal 9 Drive the seal into the bore with a large socket and hammer until
Refer to illustrations 10.4, 10.6 and 10.7 it's completely seated (see illustration). Select a socket that's the
1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. same outside diameter as the seal and make sure the new seal is
2 Unbolt the fan shroud and move it back over the cooling fan. pressed into place until it bottoms against the cover flange.
3 Pry the accessory drivebelt tensioner clockwise until the 10 Check the surface of the damper that the oil seal rides on. If the
serpentine belt can be removed from the idler pulley. surface has been grooved from prolonged contact with the seal, a
4 Remove the bolts (see illustration) and separate the crankshaft press-on sleeve may be available renewing the damper sealing surface
pulley from the vibration damper. (see illustration). These sleeves are commonly available from auto
5 Remove the large vibration damper bolt. To keep the crankshaft parts stores.
from turning, remove the starter (see Chapter 5) and have an assistant 11 Lubricate the seal lips with engine oil and reinstall the vibration
wedge a large screwdriver against the ring gear teeth. damper.
2В-10 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

10.10 If the sealing surface of the damper has a wear groove 11.11 Remove the accessories, then the alternator/compressor
from contact with the seal, repair sleeves, like the one shown mounting bracket
here, are available at auto parts stores - when pressed in
place, these sleeves provide a fresh new surface
14 Remove the remaining mounting bolts and separate the timing
for the seal and can prevent oil leaks chain cover from the block and oil pan (see illustration). The cover
may be stuck. If so, use a putty knife to break the gasket seal. The
cover is easily damaged, so DO NOT attempt to pry it off.
11 Timing cover, chain and sprockets - removal, 15 Remove the oil slinger from the end of the crankshaft, if equipped.
inspection and installation Note how it's installed so you can reinstall it the same way on
reassembly. It's a good idea to replace the crankshaft front seal at this
time (see Section 10).
Timing chain slack check (cover on engine)
Note: This procedure will allow you to check the amount of slack in the Timing chain and gear inspection (cover
timing chain without removing the timing chain cover from the engine.
1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. removed from engine)
2 Place the engine at TDC (Top Dead Center) (see Section 3) for Refer to illustration 11.16
number one cylinder. 16 Attach a socket and torque wrench to the camshaft sprocket bolt
3 Keeping it on the compression stroke, place number one at (see illustration) and apply force in the normal direction of crankshaft
about 30-degrees before TDC (BTDC). rotation (30 ft-lbs if the cylinder head is still in position complete with
4 Remove the distributor cap (see Chapter 1). rocker arms, or 15 ft-lbs if the cylinder head has been removed). Don't
5 You must rotate the crankshaft very slowly by hand for accuracy on allow the crankshaft to rotate. Using a ruler, note the position of a
this check, so use a 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar, extension and correct- chain linkpin on the ruler and reverse the motion of the torque wrench.
size socket on the large bolt in the center of the crankshaft pulley. Check the movement against the ruler and observe the total amount of
6 Turn the crankshaft slowly clockwise until the number one piston chain movement. If it exceeds 1/8-inch, a new timing chain will be
is at TDC. This will take up the slack on the left side of the timing chain. required. Note: Whenever a new timing chain is required, the entire set
Do not go past it and back up. (chain, camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket) must be replaced
7 Mark the position of the distributor rotor on the distributor housing. as an assembly.
8 Slowly turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the slightest 17 Inspect the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets for damage or
movement is seen at the distributor rotor. Stop and note how far the wear.
crankshaft has moved away from the TDC mark by looking at the
ignition timing marks.
9 If the mark has moved more than 10 degrees, the timing chain is
probably worn excessively. Remove the timing chain cover for a more
accurate check.

Cover removal
Refer to illustrations 11.11 and 11.14
10 Detach accessories such as the power steering pump, alternator
and air conditioning compressor that block access to the timing chain
cover. Leave the hoses connected to the A/C compressor and power
steering pump and secure the units aside (see Section 7).
11 Remove the accessory bracket from the front of the engine (see
illustration).
12 Remove the water pump (see Chapter 3).
13 Remove the front two oil pan bolts, that thread into the timing chain
cover - they're most easily accessed from below. Note: Even though this
procedure can be done without the removal of the oil pan, it is likely the
one-piece, metal-reinforced oil pan gasket will break when removing the
front cover. If it doesn't break, it could be coated with sealant in the front-
cover area and reused, but replacement of the entire oil pan gasket (see
Section 13j is the only guarantee of a leak-free installation. 11.14 Timing chain cover bolt hole locations
 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine 2B-11

Installation
Refer to illustrations 11.22a and 11.22b
20 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material
and sealant from the cover and engine block. Stuff a shop rag into the
opening at the front of the oil pan to keep debris out of the engine.
Remove the rubber semi-circular seal from the front of the oil pan.
Wipe the cover and block sealing surfaces with a cloth saturated with
lacquer thinner or acetone.
21 If you're installing a new crankshaft sprocket, be sure to align the
keyway in the crankshaft sprocket with the Woodruff key in the end of
the crankshaft. Note: Timing chains must be replaced as a set with the
camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Never put a new chain on old
sprockets. Align the sprocket with the Woodruff key and press the
TORQUE sprocket onto the crankshaft with the vibration damper bolt, a large
WRENCH socket and some washers or tap it gently into place until it is
completely seated. Caution: If resistance is encountered, do not
hammer the sprocket onto the crankshaft. It may eventually move onto
the shaft, but it may be cracked in the process and fail later, causing
11.16 Position a ruler over the chain to measure slack while extensive engine damage.
applying pressure with a torque wrench to the 22 Loop the new chain over the camshaft sprocket, then position the
camshaft sprocket bolt sprocket with the timing mark at the bottom (see illustration). Mesh the
chain with the crankshaft sprocket and position the camshaft sprocket
on the camshaft. If necessary, turn the camshaft so the key fits into the
Chain removal sprocket keyway with the timing mark in the 6 o'clock position (see
Refer to illustrations 11.18, 11.19a and 11.19b illustration). When the chain is installed, the timing marks MUST align as
18 Be sure the timing marks are aligned (see illustration) and shown (see illustration 11.18). Note: The number six piston is at TDC on
remove the bolt from the camshaft sprocket. the compression stroke when the timing marks are aligned.
19 The sprockets on the camshaft and crankshaft can be removed 23 Apply a thread-locking compound to the camshaft sprocket bolt
with a two or three-jaw puller or by using two screwdrivers (see illus- threads, and tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's
trations), but be careful not to damage the threads in the end of the Specifications.
crankshaft.

11.18 Align the timing marks on the 11.19a The camshaft and crankshaft 11.19b . . . or two screwdrivers
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets sprockets can be removed with a
two or three-jaw puller...

11.22a Slip the chain and camshaft sprocket in place over the 11.22b The keyway must align with the key (arrows)
crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark (arrow) at the bottom with the timing mark at 6 o'clock
2В-12 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

12.3 When checking the camshaft lobe lift, the dial indicator 12.13 Note the paint marks (arrows) that indicate which side of
plunger must be positioned directly above and the roller lifters face the valley - apply marks if none are visible
in-line with the pushrod

24 Lubricate the chain with clean engine oil. loosen any hose fittings or remove any components until after the
25 If the crankshaft front oil seal has been leaking, refer to Section 10 system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant should be
and install a new one. If the seal is being replaced with the timing chain properly discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/recycling unit at a
cover removed, support the cover on two blocks of wood and drive the dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair
seal out from the back with a hammer and punch. Caution: Be careful facility. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air condi-
not to scratch, gouge or distort the area that the seal fits into or a leak tioning system fittings.
will develop. Drive a new one in with a hammer and a socket the size of
the seal. Camshaft lobe lift check
26 Check for tears or deformation of the one-piece, metal-reinforced Refer to illustration 12.3
oil pan gasket before installing the timing cover. If the gasket is 1 In order to determine the extent of cam lobe wear, the lobe lift
damaged, it must be replaced (see Section 13) before reinstalling the should be checked prior to camshaft removal.
timing cover. 2 Remove the valve covers (see Section 4).
27 Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to both sides of the new cover 3 Beginning with the number one cylinder, mount a dial indicator on
gasket and the corners of the pan and block, then position the new the engine and position the plunger against the top surface of the first
cover gasket on the engine. The sealant will hold it in place. Note: If rocker arm. Position the number one cylinder at TDC on the
the oil pan has been removed for replacement of the pan gasket, install compression stroke (see Section 3). The plunger should be directly
the front cover before the oil pan and its gaskets are installed. above and in line with the pushrod (see illustration).
28 Install the timing chain cover on the block. Install all front cover 4 Zero the dial indicator, then very slowly turn the crankshaft in the
bolts, except the ones that also secure the water pump, tightening normal direction of rotation (clockwise) until the indicator needle stops
them finger-tight. and begins to move in the opposite direction. The point at which it
29 Install the water pump with a new gasket and tighten the timing stops indicates maximum cam lobe lift.
chain cover bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 5 Record this figure for future reference, then reposition the piston
30 Install the oil pan bolts, bringing the oil pan up against the timing at TDC on the compression stroke again.
chain cover. 6 Move the dial indicator to the other number one cylinder rocker
31 Lubricate the oil seal contact surface of the vibration damper hub arm and repeat the check. Be sure to record the results for each valve.
with clean engine oil, then install the damper on the end of the 7 Repeat the check for the remaining valves. Since each piston
crankshaft. The keyway in the damper must be aligned with the must be at TDC on the compression stroke for this procedure, work
Woodruff key in the crankshaft nose. If the damper cannot be seated from cylinder-to-cylinder following the firing order sequence.
by hand, slip the large washer over the bolt, install the bolt and tighten 8 After the check is complete, multiply all the recorded figures by 1.5
it to pull the damper into place. Tighten the bolt to the torque listed in to obtain the total valve lift for each valve (the rocker arms have a 1.5:1
this Chapter's Specifications. ratio). Compare the results to the specifications in this Chapter. If the
32 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. valve lift is 0.003 inch less than specified, cam lobe wear has occurred
33 Add coolant and check the oil level. Run the engine and check for and a new camshaft should be installed.
oil and coolant leaks.
Removal
Refer to illustrations 12.13, 12.14, 12.16, 12.17 and 12.18
12 Camshaft and lifters - removal, inspection and 9 Have the air-conditioning system discharged by a dealer service
installation department or automotive air conditioning repair facility.
10 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.
Warning 1: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is 11 Refer to the appropriate Sections and remove the intake manifold,
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To rocker arms, pushrods, timing chain and camshaft sprockets.
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the 12 Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5). Remove the radiator,
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components or grille and air-conditioning condenser (see Chapter 3). Note: To provide
crash sensors which may be located in the grille area. After the battery enough clearance for camshaft removal, it may be necessary to unbolt
is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before beginning work (the and remove the vertical hood latch support (see Chapter 11).
system has a back-up capacitor that must fully discharge). For more 13 The roller-type lifters should be marked with paint indicating
information see Chapter 12. which side of the lifter faces the valley (see illustration). If they aren't
Warning 2: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not marked, mark them before removing the lifters. Note: The lifters must
 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine 2B-13

12.14 Remove the three bolts (arrows) and lift 12.16 Remove the lifter and the lifter guide (arrow) which keeps
out the lifter retainer the roller lifters from rotating in their bores

12.17 Remove the camshaft thrust plate and oil tab 12.18 Thread a long bolt into the camshaft sprocket bolt hole to
use as a handle - as the camshaft is being removed, support it
1 Oil tab bolt 2 Thrust plate bolt near the block so the lobes do not nick or gouge the bearings

be oriented properly to align the oil feed holes.

14 Remove the three bolts and the lifter retainer (see illustration)
15 There are several ways to extract the lifters from the bores. A
special tool designed to grip and remove lifters is manufactured by many
tool companies and is widely available, but it may not be required in
every case. On newer engines without a lot of varnish buildup, the lifters
can often be removed with a small magnet or even with your fingers. A
machinist's scribe with a bent end can be used to pull the lifters out by
positioning the point under the retainer ring inside the top of each lifter.
Caution: Do not use pliers to remove the lifters unless you intend to
replace them with new ones. The pliers will damage the precision
machined and hardened lifters, rendering them useless.
16 Remove the lifter guides and lifters (see illustration). Store the
lifters in a clearly labeled box to ensure that they are reinstalled in their
original locations.
17 Unbolt and remove the camshaft thrust plate and oil tab (see
illustration). Note how the oil tab is installed so you can return it to its
original location on reassembly. 12.21 Check the diameter of each camshaft bearing journal to
18 Thread a long bolt into the camshaft sprocket bolt hole to use as a pinpoint excessive wear and out-of-round conditions
handle when removing the camshaft from the block (see illustration).
19 Carefully pull the camshaft out. Support the cam near the block
so the lobes do not nick or gouge the bearings as it is withdrawn. bearing inserts in the block are probably damaged as well. Both the
camshaft and bearings will have to be replaced. Note: Camshaft
Inspection bearing replacement requires special tools and expertise that place it
Refer to illustrations 12.21 and 12.24 beyond the scope of this manual. If the bearings are bad, that the
engine should be removed and the block taken to an automotive
20 After the camshaft has been removed from the engine, cleaned
machine shop to ensure that the job is done correctly.
with solvent and dried, inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear,
21 Measure the bearing journals with a micrometer to determine if
pitting and evidence of seizure. If the journals are damaged, the
they are excessively worn or out-of-round (see illustration).
2В-14 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

12.24 The roller on the roller lifters must turn freely - check for 12.25 Apply engine assembly lube to the cam lobes and bearing
wear and excessive play as well journals before installing the camshaft

22 Check the camshaft lobes for heat discoloration, score marks,

chipped areas, pitting and uneven wear. If the lobes are in good
condition and if the lobe lift measurements are as specified in this
Chapter, the camshaft can be reused.
23 With conventional, flat-tappet lifters, the camshaft must be
replaced whenever lifters are replaced, and vice-versa, due to the wear
pattern. However, used roller lifters in good shape can be transferred
to a new cam if necessary, but should be installed in the same bores
as they were originally.
24 After cleaning thoroughly, check the rollers carefully for wear and
damage and make sure they turn freely without excessive play (see
illustration).

Installation
Refer to illustrations 12.25 and 12.26
25 Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals and cam lobes with
engine assembly lube (see illustration).
26 Position a camshaft holding tool (C-3509, or equivalent) through
the distributor hole (see illustration). This tool will prevent the
camshaft from being installed to far and knocking out the Welch plug
in the back of the block. The tool should remain in place until the timing 12.26 Camshaft holding tool C-3509 installation details
chain has been installed. Caution: If the tool is unavailable, work the
camshaft in slowly and carefully to avoid knocking the plug out. If the
Welch plug seal is damaged, a massive oil leak will occur.
27 Slide the camshaft slowly into the engine. Support the cam near 13 Oil pan - removal and installation
the block and be careful not to scrape or nick the bearings, and do not
push it in any further than is required to install the camshaft thrust plate
and oil tab. Removal
28 Install the timing chain and sprockets (see Section 11). Align the Refer to illustrations 13.2, 13.3, 13.8, 13.9 and 13.11
timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Raise the
29 Install the distributor (see Chapter 5). Note: When the camshaft vehicle and support the chassis securely on jackstands (see
and crankshaft sprocket alignment marks are aligned, the distributor Chapter 1). Place the jackstands on the frame so the front axle hangs
rotor should point to the number six cylinder spark plug wire terminal. down to the limit of its travel.
30 Lubricate the lifters with clean engine oil and install them in the 2 Remove the bolts retaining the front skid-plate in place. The rear
block. If the original lifters are being reinstalled, be sure to return them bolts are reached with a long extension through access holes (see
to their original locations, and with the paint marks facing the valley. illustration).
Install the lifter guides with the arrows pointing toward the camshaft 3 Use a blunt screwdriver, pop the plastic retainers from the flexible
and install the lifter retainer. splash-shield (see illustration).
31 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. 4 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter (see Chapter 1).
32 Change the oil, add Mopar Crankcase Conditioner (part 5 Remove the starter motor and lay it aside (see Chapter 5).
no. 3419130) or equivalent, and install a new oil filter (see Chapter 1). 6 Disconnect the oxygen sensor from the exhaust pipe, remove the
33 Start the engine, check for oil pressure and leaks. Caution: Do bolts/nuts and separate the exhaust pipe from both exhaust manifolds
not run the engine above a fast idle until all the hydraulic lifters have (see Section 8).
filled with oil and become quiet again. 7 Remove the oil dipstick.
34 If a new camshaft and lifters have been installed, the engine 8 Place a jack under the transmission or transfer case to take the
should be brought to operating temperature and run at a fast idle weight off the transmission crossmember. Unbolt the crossmember
for 15-20 minutes to "break in" the components. Then change the oil from the frame and from the transmission mount (see illustration).
and filter once more. This allows the complete exhaust system to drop down.
 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine 2B-15

13.2 Remove the front skid-plate - use a long extension through 13.3 The rubber splash-shield is easily removed by popping out
these holes to reach the rear bolts the plastic retainers (arrow) with a screwdriver

13.8 Support the transmission or transfer case with a jack, 13.9 Disconnect the oil-level sensor (A) and the nut retaining
unbolt the crossmember (arrow) and allow the the transmission cooling lines (B)
exhaust system to drop down

9 Disconnect the oil-level sensor and the bracket retaining the

transmission cooling lines to the pan rail (see illustration).
10 Remove all the oil pan bolts, then lower the pan from the engine.
Strike the pan with a rubber mallet to break the gasket seal. Caution:
Before using force on the oil pan, be sure all the bolts have been
removed.
11 Twist the pan sideways and down to remove it to the rear (see
illustration).

Installation
Refer to illustration 13.16
12 Thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces of the oil pan and engine
block of old gasket material and sealer.
13 If the oil pan is distorted at the bolt-hole areas, straighten the
flange by supporting it from below on a 1x4 wood block and tapping
the bolt holes with the rounded end of a ball-peen hammer. Wipe the
gasket surfaces clean with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.
14 Prepare four pan alignment dowels from 5/16-inch bolts 1 1/2-
inches long. Cut off the bolt heads and slot the ends with a hacksaw.
15 Install the four alignment dowels into the frontmost and rearmost
pairs of pan bolt holes in the block. Apply RTV sealant on both sides
13.11 Take your time and don't force anything - the oil pan
where the pan meets the rear main cap, and up front at the junction of
can be removed from under the vehicle
the front cover and block.
2В-16 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

13.16 Place the pan and gasket into position over the alignment 14.2 Remove the bolts (arrows) and lower the oil pump
studs (arrow) and install several pan bolts finger-tight

14.6 Measure the outer oil-pump rotor thickness and 14.7a Measure the clearance between the outer rotor
compare it to Specifications and the pump body

16 Lift the pan into position with its gasket in place, slipping it over 3 Lower the pump and pickup screen assembly from the vehicle
the alignment dowels and being careful not to disturb the gasket. and clean the gasket surfaces.
Install several bolts finger tight (see illustration).
17 Check that the gasket isn't sticking out anywhere around the Inspection
block's perimeter. When all the bolts are in place, replace the Refer to illustrations 14.6, 14.7a, 14.7b and 14.7c
alignment dowels with four pan bolts. 4 Remove the oil pump cover.
18 Starting at the center and alternating from side-to-side towards 5 Place a straightedge across the inner surface of the oil pump
the ends, tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi- cover and try to insert a 0.0015-inch feeler gauge between the
cations.
straightedge and pump cover. If the gauge fits, the oil pump assembly
19 The remainder of the installation procedure is the reverse of
should be replaced.
removal. 6 Remove the outer rotor (see illustration) and measure its
20 Add the proper type and quantity of oil (see Chapter 1) and a new thickness with a micrometer. If it is less than the rotor thickness listed
oil filter. Start the engine and check for leaks before placing the vehicle in this Chapter's Specifications, the pump assembly should be
back in service. replaced. The inner rotor should meet this same minimum thickness.
7 With feeler gauges, measure the clearance between the outer
rotor and the body, between the inner and outer rotor tips, and the
14 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation clearance between the rotors and the cover (see illustrations).
Compare these measurements to this Chapter's Specifications. If any
Refer fo illustration 14.2 clearance is greater than specified, replace the pump assembly.

Removal Installation
1 Unbolt and lower the oil pan (see Section 13). Refer to illustration 14.10
2 While supporting the oil pump, remove the pump-to-rear main 8 Thread the oil pickup tube and screen into the oil pump and
bearing cap bolts (see illustration). tighten it. Caution: Be absolutely certain that the pickup screen is
 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine 2B-17

14.7b Measure the clearance between the rotor tips 14.7c Measure the clearance between the rotors and the cover

14.10 The oil pump driveshaft (arrow) must align with the pump 16.3 Remove the two bolts (arrows) and the rear main cap

properly tightened so that no air can be sucked into the oiling system at 3 Remove the bolts and detach the rear main bearing cap from the
this connection. engine (see illustration).
9 Prime the pump by pouring clean engine oil into the pickup tube. 4 Remove the lower half of the oil seal from the bearing cap or
10 Position the pump on the engine with a new gasket and make retainer.
sure the oil pump driveshaft is aligned with the oil pump (see illus- 5 Loosen the main cap bolts on the number 2 and number 3 main
tration). caps.
11 Install the mounting bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in 6 Use a small brass punch to carefully press on one end of the
this Chapter's Specifications. upper half of the existing seal until the other side protrudes, then pull
12 Install the oil pan and add oil. the seal out from the other side with needle-nose pliers. Clean the
13 Run the engine and check for oil pressure and leaks. bearing cap and engine block surfaces carefully to degrease them and
remove any sealant.
7 Lightly oil the lips of the new (neoprene rubber) crankshaft seals.
15 Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation Caution: Always wipe the crankshaft surface clean, then oil it lightly
before installing a new seal.
8 Rotate a new seal half into cylinder block with the seal lip facing
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A for this procedure, but be sure to use
toward the front of the engine (white or yellow paint mark facing the
the torque value listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
rear of the engine). Caution: Hold your thumb firmly against the outside
diameter of the seal as you're rotating it into place. This will prevent the
seal outside diameter from being shaved from contact with the sharp
16 Rear main oil seal - replacement edge of the engine block. If the seal gets shaved, you may wind up with
an oil leak.
Refer to illustrations 16.3 and 16.10 9 Place the other seal half in the bearing cap with the paint mark
1 Remove the oil pan (see Section 13). toward the rear of the engine.
2 Remove the oil pump (see Section 14). 10 Apply a 0.20-inch drop of Loctite 515, or equivalent sealant on
2В-18 Chapter 2 Part В V8 engine

16.10 Apply Loctite 515, or equivalent, to either side of the

cap as shown, and RTV sealant at the block/cap
junction after the cap is installed

both sides of the rear main cap as indicated (see illustration).

17.1 Typical V-8 engine mount details
11 Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned and oiled bolts and
tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
Tighten the remainder of the main bearing caps to the torque listed in
this Chapter's Specifications. Apply RTV sealant at the junction of the 17 Engine mounts - check and replacement
cap and block (see illustration 16.10).
12 Install the oil pump and oil pan. Refer to illustrations 17.1
13 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Fill the pan Refer to Chapter 2, Part A for this procedure, but use the accom-
with oil, run the engine and check for leaks. panying illustration for V8 engine mount locations and descriptions.
 2С-1

Chapter 2 Part С
General engine overhaul procedures
Contents

Section Section
CHECK ENGINE light ..................................................... See Chapter 6 Engine rebuilding alternatives..................................................... 7
Compression check....................................................................... 3 Engine - removal and installation ................................................ 6
Crankshaft - inspection ................................................................. 19 Engine removal - methods and precautions ................................ 5
Crankshaft - installation and main bearing oil clearance check.... 22 General information.................................................................... 1
Crankshaft - removal...................................................................... 14 Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul.................................... 25
Cylinder head - cleaning and inspection ........................................ 10 Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection........................... 20
Cylinder head - disassembly.......................................................... 9 Pistons/connecting rods - inspection ......................................... 18
Cylinder head - reassembly........................................................... 12 Pistons/connecting rods - installation and rod bearing
Cylinder honing.............................................................................. 17 oil clearance check............................................................... 24
Engine block - cleaning.................................................................. 15 Piston/connecting rods - removal ............................................... 13
Engine block - inspection............................................................... 16 Piston rings - installation ............................................................ 23
Engine overhaul - disassembly sequence...................................... 8 Vacuum diagnosis checks ......................................................... 4
Engine overhaul - general information ........................................... 2 Valves - servicing....................................................................... 11
Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence........................................ 21

Specifications

4.0L Inline six-cylinder engine

General
Displacement........................................................................................... 4.0 liters (258 cubic inches)
Cylinder compression pressure ............................................................... 120 to 150 psi
Maximum variation between cylinders .................................................... 30 psi
Oil pressure
At idle (600 rpm)................................................................................. 13 psi
Above 1600 rpm................................................................................. 37 to 75 psi

Engine block
Bore diameter.......................................................................................... 3.875 to 3.877 inches
Taper and out-of-round........................................................................... 0.001 inch
Deck (head gasket surface) warpage limit................................................ 0.002 inch per 6 inches
Lifter bore diameter................................................................................. 0.9055 to 0.9065 inch

Cylinder head and valves

Head warpage limit.................................................................................. 0.002 inch per 6 inches
Minimum valve margin............................................................................. 0.031 inch
Valve seat angle, intake and exhaust ...................................................... 44.5-degrees
Valve face angle, intake and exhaust ...................................................... 45-degrees
Valve stem diameter................................................................................ 0.0311 to 0.312 inch
Valve stem-to-guide clearance ................................................................ 0.001 to 0.003 inch
Valve spring free length
1993 through 1995............................................................................. 1.967 inches
1996 and later.................................................................................... 1.876 inches
Valve spring installed height .................................................................... 1.64 inches
Valve length
Intake ................................................................................................. 4.822 to 4.837 inches
Exhaust .............................................................................................. 4.837 to 4.852 inches

Crankshaft and connecting rods

Rod journal diameter............................................................................... 2.0934 to 2.0955 inches
Rod bearing oil clearance
Desired............................................................................................... 0.0015 to 0.002 inch
Allowable ........................................................................................... 0.001 to 0.003 inch
Connecting rod side clearance (endplay) ................................................ 0.010 to 0.019 inch
Main bearing journal diameter................................................................. 2.4996 to 2.5001 inch
2С-2 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

Crankshaft and connecting rods (continued)

Main bearing oil clearance
Desired............................................................................................. 0.002 inch
Allowable.......................................................................................... . 0.001 to 0.0025 inch
Crankshaft endplay (at thrust bearing) ................................................... 0.0015 to 0.0065 inch
Maximum taper and out-of-round (all journals)....................................... 0.0005 inch
Pistons and rings
Piston-to-bore clearance
Desired............................................................................................... 0.0013 to 0.0015 inch
Allowable............................................................................................ 0.0013 to 0.0015 inch
Piston ring end gap
Compression rings
1993 through 1995 ....................................................................... 0.010 to 0.020 inch
1996 and later
Top compression ring ............................................................. 0.0090 to 0.0240 inch
Second compression ring ....................................................... 0.0190 to 0.0380 inch
Oil control ring (steel rails)
1993 through 1995........................................................................ 0.010 to 0.025 inch
1996 and later .............................................................................. 0.010 to 0.060 inch
Piston ring side clearance
Compression rings
Desired ......................................................................................... 0.0017 inch
Allowable ...................................................................................... 0.0017 to 0.0032 inch
Oil control ring
Desired ......................................................................................... 0.003 inch
Allowable
1993 through 1995.................................................................. 0.01 to 0.0095 inch
1996 and later ......................................................................... 0.0024 to 0.0083 inch
Torque specifications * Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)
Main bearing cap bolts............................................................................ 80
Connecting rod cap nuts ........................................................................ 33
* Note: Refer to Part A for additional torque specifications.
5.2L and 5.9L engines
General
Displacement
5.2 L ................................................................................................ 5.2 liters (318 cubic inches)
5.9 L ................................................................................................ 5.9 liters (360 cubic inches)
Cylinder compression pressure............................................................... 120 to 150 psi
Maximum variation between cylinders.................................................... 30 psi
Oil pressure
At idle (600 rpm) ................................................................................ 10 psi (approximately)
At 3000 rpm....................................................................................... 30 to 80 psi
Engine block
Bore diameter
5.2L ............................................................................................... 3.910 to 3.914 inches
5.9L ................................................................................................ 4.000 to 4.002 inches
Taper....................................................................................................... 0.010 inch
Out-of-round........................................................................................... 0.005 inch
Deck (head gasket surface) warpage limit .............................................. 0.002 inch per 6 inches
Lifter bore diameter ................................................................................ 0.9051 to 0.9059 inch
Cylinder head and valves
Head warpage limit................................................................................. 0.002 inch per 6 inches
Minimum valve margin ............................................................................ 0.047 inch
Valve seat angle, intake and exhaust ..................................................... 44.25 to 44.75-degrees
Valve face angle, intake and exhaust...................................................... 43.25 to 43.75-degrees
Valve stem diameter................................................................................ 0.0311 to 0.312 inch
Valve stem-to-guide clearance................................................................. 0.001 to 0.003 inch
Valve spring free length ........................................................................... 1.967 inches
Valve spring installed height .................................................................... 1.64 inches
Valve length
5.2L
Intake ............................................................................................ 4.893 to 4.918 inches
Exhaust......................................................................................... 4.907 to 4.932 inches
5.9L
Intake ............................................................................................ 4.969 to 4.994 inches
Exhaust......................................................................................... 4.978 to 5.012 inches
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-3

Crankshaft and connecting rods

Rod journal diameter............................................................................... 2.124 to 2.125 inch
l
Rod bearing oil clearance
Desired .............................................................................................. 0.0005 to 0.0022 inch
Allowable ........................................................................................... 0.003 inch
Connecting rod side clearance (endplay) ................................................ 0.006 to 0.014 inch
Main bearing journal diameter................................................................. 2.4995 to 2.5005 inch
Main bearing oil clearance
Number 1 ........................................................................................... 0.005 to 0.0015 inch
Numbers 2, 3, 4, and 5
Desired ......................................................................................... 0.005 to 0.0020 inch
Allowable ...................................................................................... 0.0025 inch
Crankshaft endplay.................................................................................. 0.002 to 0.007 inch
Maximum taper and out-of-round (all journals) ....................................... 0.001 inch

Pistons and rings

Piston-to-bore clearance ........................................................................ 0.0005 to 0.0015 inch
Piston ring end gap
5.2L
Compression rings ....................................................................... 0.010 to 0.020 inch
Oil control ring (steel rails)............................................................. 0.010 to 0.050 inch
5.9L
Compression rings
Top ring................................................................................... 0.012 to 0.022 inch
Second ring............................................................................. 0.022 to 0.031 inch
Oil control ring (steel rails)............................................................. 0.015 to 0.055 inch
Piston ring side clearance
5.2L
Compression rings ....................................................................... 0.0015 to 0.0030 inch
Oil control ring (steel rails) ............................................................ 0.002 to 0.008 inch
5.9L
Compression rings....................................................................... 0.0029 to 0.0038 inch
Oil control ring (steel rails)............................................................. 0.0097 inch maximum

Torque specifications* Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Main bearing cap bolts ........................................................................... 85
Connecting rod cap bolts....................................................................... 45
* Note: Refer to Part В for additional torque specifications.

as other required maintenance, will most likely give many thousands of

1 General information miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require
an overhaul very early in its life.
Included in this portion of Chapter 2 are the general overhaul Excessive oil consumption is an indication that piston rings, valve
procedures for the cylinder head(s) and internal engine components. seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil
The information ranges from advice concerning preparation for an leaks aren't responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides
overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts to detailed, step-by- are bad. Perform a cylinder compression check to determine the
step procedures covering removal and installation of internal engine extent of the work required (see Section 3).
components and the inspection of parts.
The following Sections have been written based on the
assumption that the engine has been removed from the vehicle. For
information concerning in-vehicle engine repair, as well as removal and
installation of the external components necessary for the overhaul, see
Sections 5 and 7, and Chapters 2A and 2B.
The Specifications included in this Part are only those necessary
for the inspection and overhaul procedures which follow. Refer to Parts
A or В for additional Specifications.

2 Engine overhaul - general information

Refer to illustrations 2.4a and 2,4b

It's not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be
completely overhauled, as a number of factors must be considered.
High mileage is not necessarily an indication that an overhaul is
needed, while low mileage doesn't preclude the need for an overhaul.
Frequency of servicing is probably the most important consideration.
An engine that's had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well 2.4a Remove the oil pressure sending unit (arrow)...
2С-4 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

2.4b ... and connect a gauge to check oil pressure - inline six- 3.6 A compression gauge with a threaded fitting for the spark
cylinder engine shown, the sending unit on V8's is on the top of plug hole is preferred over the type that requires hand pressure to
the block, behind the intake manifold maintain the seal

Check the oil pressure with a gauge installed in place of the oil Since the block's condition will be the major factor to consider
pressure sending unit (see illustrations) and compare it to the Specifi- when determining whether to overhaul the original engine or buy a
cations. If it's extremely low, the bearings and/or oil pump are probably rebuilt one, never purchase parts or have machine work done on other
worn out. components until the block has been thoroughly inspected. As a
Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it doesn't pay
excessive valve train noise and high fuel consumption rates may also to install worn or substandard parts.
point to the need for an overhaul, especially if they're all present at the As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble
same time. If a complete tune-up doesn't remedy the situation, major from
mechanical work is the only solution. a rebuilt engine, everything must be assembled with care in a
An engine overhaul involves restoring the internal parts to the spotlessly-clean environment.
specifications of a new engine. During an overhaul, the piston rings are
replaced and the cylinder walls are reconditioned (rebored and/or
honed). If a rebore is done by an automotive machine shop, new 3 Compression check
oversize pistons will also be installed. The main bearings, connecting
rod bearings and camshaft bearings are generally replaced with new Refer to illustration 3.6
ones and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be reground to restore the 1 A compression check will tell you what mechanical condition the
journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as well, since they're upper end (pistons, rings, valves, head gaskets) of your engine is in.
usually in less-than-perfect condition at this point. Specifically, it can tell you if the compression is down due to leakage I
While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as caused by worn piston rings, defective valves and seats or a blown
the distributor, starter and alternator, can be rebuilt as well. The end head gasket. Note: The engine must be at normal operating
result should be a like new engine that will give many thousands of temperature and the battery must be fully charged for this check.
trouble free miles. Note: Critical cooling system components such as 2 Begin by cleaning the area around the spark plugs before you
the hoses, drivebelts, thermostat and water pump MUST be replaced remove them (compressed air should be used, if available, otherwise a
with new parts when an engine is overhauled. There are engine small brush or even a bicycle tire pump will work). The idea is to
rebuilders who will not guarantee their work if the radiator hasn't been prevent dirt from getting into the cylinders as the compression check is
professionally cleaned at the time of rebuilt-engine installation. The being done.
radiator should be checked carefully to ensure that it isn't clogged or 3 Remove all of the spark plugs from the engine (see Chapter 1).
leaking (see Chapter 3). Also, we don't recommend overhauling the oil 4 Block the throttle wide open.
pump - always install a new one when an engine is rebuilt. 5 Detach the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and
Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the entire ground it on the engine block. Use a jumper wire with alligator clips on
procedure to familiarize yourself with the scope and requirements of each end to ensure a good ground. The fuel pump circuit should also
the job. Overhauling an engine isn't difficult if you have the right be disabled (see Chapter 4).
equipment and follow the instructions carefully, but it is time- 6 Install the compression gauge in the number one spark plug hole
consuming. Plan on the vehicle being tied up for a minimum of two (see illustration).
weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an automotive machine 7 Crank the engine over at least seven compression strokes and
shop for repair or reconditioning. Check on availability of parts and watch the gauge. The compression should build up quickly in a healthy
make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are engine. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually
obtained in advance. increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston
Most work can be done with typical hand tools, although a rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which doesn't
number of precision measuring tools are required for inspecting parts build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown
to determine if they must be replaced. Often an automotive machine head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). Deposits on the
shop will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning undersides of the valve heads can also cause low compression.
reconditioning and replacement. Note: Always wait until the engine has Record the highest gauge reading obtained.
been completely disassembled and all components, especially the 8 Repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders and compare
engine block, have been inspected before deciding what service and the results to this Chapter's Specifications.
repair operations must be performed by an automotive machine shop. 9 Add some engine oil (about three squirts from a plunger-type oil
can) to each cylinder, through the spark plug hole, and repeat the test.
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-5

before starting the engine. Keep your hands and the vacuum gauge
clear of the fan and do not stand in front of the vehicle or in line with the
fan when the engine is running.
Read the vacuum gauge; an average, healthy engine should
normally produce about 17 to 22 inches of vacuum with a fairly steady
needle (see illustration). Refer to the following vacuum gauge
readings and what they indicate about the engine's condition:
a) A low steady reading usually indicates a leaking gasket between
the intake manifold and throttle body, a leaky vacuum hose, late
ignition timing or incorrect camshaft timing. Check ignition timing
with a timing light and eliminate all other possible causes, utilizing
the tests provided in this Chapter before you remove the timing
chain cover to check the timing marks.
b) If the reading is three to eight inches below normal and it
fluctuates at that low reading, suspect an intake manifold gasket
leak at an intake port or a faulty fuel injector.
c) If the needle has regular drops of about two-to-four inches at a
steady rate, the valves are probably leaking. Perform a
compression check or leak-down test to confirm this.
d) An irregular drop or down-flick of the needle can be caused by a
4.6 An inexpensive vacuum gauge can tell you a lot about an
sticking valve or an ignition misfire. Perform a compression check
engine's condition
or leak-down test and read the spark plugs.
e) A rapid vibration of about four inches Hg vibration at idle
10 If the compression increases after the oil is added, the piston combined with exhaust smoke indicates worn valve guides.
rings are definitely worn. If the compression doesn't increase signifi- Perform a leak-down test to confirm this. If the rapid vibration
cantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves or head gasket. Leakage occurs with an increase in engine speed, check for a leaking
past the valves may be caused by burned valve seats and/or faces or intake manifold gasket or head gasket, weak valve springs, burned
warped, cracked or bent valves. valves or ignition misfire.
11 If two adjacent cylinders have equally-low compression, there's a f) A slight fluctuation, say one inch up and down, may mean ignition
strong possibility that the head gasket between them is blown. The problems. Check all the usual tune-up items and, if necessary, run
appearance of coolant in the combustion chambers or the crankcase the engine on an ignition analyzer.
would verify this condition. g) If there is a large fluctuation, perform a compression or leak-down
12 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others, and the test to look for a weak or dead cylinder or a blown head gasket.
engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft h) If the needle moves slowly through a wide range, check for a
could be the cause. clogged PCV system, incorrect idle fuel mixture,
13 If the compression is unusually high, the combustion chambers carburetor/throttle body or intake manifold gasket leaks,
are probably coated with carbon deposits. If that's the case, the i) Check for a slow return after revving the engine by quickly
cylinder head(s) should be removed and decarbonized. snapping the throttle open until the engine reaches about 2,500
14 If compression is way down or varies greatly between cylinders, it rpm and let it shut. Normally the reading should drop to near zero,
would be a good idea to have a leak-down test performed by an rise above normal idle reading (about 5 in.-Hg over) and then
automotive repair shop. This test will pinpoint exactly where the return to the previous idle reading. If the vacuum returns slowly
leakage is occurring and how severe it is. and doesn 't peak when the throttle is snapped shut, the rings may
be worn. If there is a long delay, look for a restricted exhaust
system (often the muffler or catalytic converter). An easy way to
check this is to temporarily disconnect the exhaust ahead of the
4 Vacuum gauge diagnostic checks suspected part and re-test.

Refer to illustration 4.6

A vacuum gauge provides valuable information about the 5 Engine removal - methods and precautions
condition of internal engine components. You can check for worn rings
or cylinder walls, leaking head or intake manifold gaskets, restricted
If you've decided that an engine must be removed for overhaul or
exhaust, stuck or burned valves, weak valve springs, improper ignition
major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken.
or valve timing and ignition problems.
Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important.
Unfortunately, vacuum gauge readings are easy to misinterpret,
Adequate work space, along with storage space for the vehicle, will be
so they should be used in conjunction with other tests to confirm the
needed. If a shop or garage isn't available, at the very least a flat, level,
diagnosis.
clean work surface made of concrete or asphalt is required.
Both the absolute readings and the rate of needle movement are
Cleaning the engine compartment and engine before beginning
important for accurate interpretation. Most gauges measure vacuum in
the removal procedure will help keep your tools and your hands clean.
inches of mercury (in-Hg). The following references to vacuum assume
An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the
the diagnosis is being performed at sea level. As elevation increases
equipment is rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine and
(or atmospheric pressure decreases), the reading will decrease. For
accessories. Safety is of primary importance, considering the potential
every 1,000 foot increase in elevation above approximately 2000 feet,
hazards involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle.
the gauge readings will decrease about one inch of mercury.
If the engine is being removed by a novice, a helper should be
Connect the vacuum gauge directly to intake manifold vacuum,
available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also
not to ported (throitie body) vacuum. Be sure no hoses are left discon-
be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simulta-
nected during the test or false readings will result.
neously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine
Before you begin the test, allow the engine to warm up
out of the vehicle.
completely. Block the wheels and set the parking brake. With the
Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange for or obtain all of the
transmission in Park, start the engine and allow it to run at normal idle
tools and equipment you'll need prior to beginning the job. Some of
speed. Warning: Carefully inspect the fan blades for cracks or damage
2C-6 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

6.5 Label both ends of each wire before 6.11 Set the power steering pump aside 6.12 Unbolt the air conditioning
unplugging the connector with the lines still connected - be sure it's compressor and set it out of the way
upright so fluid won't spill

the equipment necessary to perform engine removal and installation confusion, make a sketch of the engine compartment and clearly label
safely and with relative ease are (in addition to an engine hoist) a heavy the lines, hoses and wires.
duty floor jack, complete sets of wrenches and sockets as described in 6 Label and detach all coolant hoses from the engine.
the front of this manual, wooden blocks and plenty of rags and 7 Remove the cooling fan, shroud and radiator (see Chapter 3).
cleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil, coolant and gasoline. If the 8 Remove the drivebelt(s) (see Chapter 1).
hoist must be rented, make sure that you arrange for it in advance and 9 Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so extra precautions
perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will must be taken when working on any part of the fuel system. DO NOT
save you money and time. smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the vehicle. Also,
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for quite a while. A machine don't work in a garage if a natural gas appliance with a pilot light is
shop will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it- present. Disconnect the fuel lines running from the engine to the
yourselfer can't accomplish without special equipment. These shops chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all open fittings/lines.
often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consult 10 Disconnect the throttle linkage (and TV linkage/cruise control
them before removing the engine in order to accurately estimate the cable, if equipped) from the engine (see Chapter 4).
amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need 11 On power steering equipped vehicles, unbolt the power steering
work. pump (see Chapter 10). Leave the lines/hoses attached (see
Always be extremely careful when removing and installing the illustration) and make sure the pump is kept in an upright position in
engine. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead, the engine compartment (use wire or rope to restrain it out of the way).
take your time and a job of this nature, although major, can be 12 On air conditioned vehicles, unbolt the compressor (see
accomplished successfully. Chapter 3) and set it aside. Do not disconnect the hoses (see
illustration).
13 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1) and remove the oil filter.
6 Engine - removal and installation 14 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5).
15 Remove the alternator (see Chapter 5).
16 Unbolt the exhaust system from the engine (see Chapter 4).
Refer to illustrations 6.5, 6.11, 6.12, 6.20 and 6.24 17 If you're working on a vehicle with an automatic transmission,
Warning: The air-conditioning system is under high pressure! Have a refer to Chapter 7B and remove the torque converter-to-driveplate
dealer service department or service station discharge the system fasteners.
before disconnecting any system hoses or fittings. 18 Support the transmission with a jack. Position a block of wood
between the jack and transmission to prevent damage to the
Removal transmission. Special transmission jacks with safety chains are
1 Refer to Chapter 4 and relieve the fuel system pressure, then available - use one if possible.
disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Warning: These 19 Attach an engine sling or a length of chain to the lifting brackets
models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is armed and can deploy on the engine.
(inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To prevent accidental 20 Roll the hoist into position and connect the sling to it (see
deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the negative battery cable illustration). Take up the slack in the sling or chain, but don't lift the
whenever working near airbag components, such as the crash sensors engine. Warning: DO NOT place any part of your body under the
at the front of the vehicle. After the battery is disconnected, wait at engine when it's supported only by a hoist or other lifting device.
least 2 minutes before beginning work (the system has a back-up 21 Remove the transmission-to-engine block bolts.
capacitor that must fully discharge). For more information see 22 Remove the engine mount-to-frame bolts.
Chapter 12. 23 Recheck to be sure nothing is still connecting the engine to the
2 Cover the fenders and cowl and remove the hood (see transmission or vehicle. Disconnect anything still remaining.
Chapter 11). Special pads are available to protect the fenders, but an 24 Raise the engine slightly. Carefully work it forward to separate it
old bedspread or blanket will also work. from the transmission. If you're working on a vehicle with an automatic
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4). transmission, be sure the torque converter stays in the transmission
4 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). (clamp a pair of vise-grips to the housing to keep the converter from
5 Label the vacuum lines, emissions system hoses, wiring sliding out). If you're working on a vehicle with a manual transmission,
connectors, ground strap and fuel lines, to ensure correct reinstallation the input shaft must be completely disengaged from the clutch. Slowly
(see illustration), then detach them. If there's any possibility of raise the engine out of the engine compartment (see illustration).
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-7

6.20 Connect the lifting sling to the hoist and take up the slack 6.24 Pull the engine forward as far as possible to clear the
transmission, then lift the engine high enough to clear the body

Check carefully to make sure nothing is hanging up. Individual parts - If the inspection procedures reveal that the
25 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and mount the engine on an engine block and most engine components are in reusable condition,
engine stand. purchasing individual parts may be the most economical alternative.
The block, crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assemblies should all
Installation be inspected carefully. Even if the block shows little wear, the cylinder
26 Check the engine and transmission mounts. If they're worn or bores should be surface honed.
damaged, replace them. Short block - A short block consists of an engine block with a
27 If you're working on a vehicle with a manual transmission, install crankshaft, camshaft and piston/connecting rod assemblies already
the clutch and pressure plate (Chapter 7A). Now is a good time to installed. All new bearings are incorporated and all clearances will be
install a new clutch. correct. The existing valve train components, cylinder head(s) and
28 Carefully lower the engine into the engine compartment - make external parts can be bolted to the short block with little or no
sure the engine mounts line up. machine-shop work necessary.
29 If you're working on a vehicle with an automatic transmission, Long block - A long block consists of a short block plus an oil
guide the torque converter into the crankshaft following the procedure pump, oil pan, cylinder head(s), valve cover(s) and valve train
outlined in Chapter 7B. components, timing sprockets and chain or gears and timing cover. All
30 If you're working on a vehicle with a manual transmission, apply a components are installed with new bearings, seals and gaskets
dab of high-temperature grease to the input shaft and guide it into the incorporated throughout. The installation of manifolds and external
crankshaft pilot bearing until the bellhousing is flush with the engine parts is all that's necessary.
block. Give careful thought to which alternative is best for you and
31 Install the transmission-to-engine bolts and tighten them discuss the situation with local automotive machine shops, auto parts
securely. Caution: DO NOT use the bolts to force the transmission and dealers and experienced rebuilders before ordering or purchasing
engine together! replacement parts.
32 Reinstall the remaining components in the reverse order of
removal.
33 Add coolant, oil, power steering and transmission fluid as needed. 8 Engine overhaul - disassembly sequence
34 Run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation of all
accessories, then install the hood and test drive the vehicle.
35 Have the air conditioning system recharged and leak tested. 1 It's much easier to disassemble and work on the engine if it's
mounted on a portable engine stand. A stand can often be rented quite
cheaply from an equipment rental yard. Before the engine is mounted
on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be removed from the engine.
7 Engine rebuilding alternatives 2 If a stand isn't available, it's possible to disassemble the engine
with it blocked up on the floor. Be extra careful not to tip or drop the
The do-it-yourselfer is faced with a number of options when engine when working without a stand.
performing an engine overhaul. The decision to replace the engine 3 If you're going to obtain a rebuilt engine, all external components
block, piston/connecting rod assemblies and crankshaft depends on a must come off first to be transferred to the replacement engine, just as
number of factors, with the number one consideration being the they will if you're doing a complete engine overhaul yourself. These
condition of the block. Other considerations are cost, access to include:
machine shop facilities, parts availability, time required to complete the Alternator and brackets
project and the extent of prior mechanical experience on the part of the Emissions control components
do-it-yourselfer. Note: The costs of alternatives described in this Distributor, sparkplug wires and spark plugs
Section can vary, depending upon quality of parts, machine work Thermostat and housing cover
required and the necessary tools and equipment to correctly do the Water pump
work. Many automotive parts stores carry complete (long and short Fuel injection components
block) assemblies in addition to individual repair parts. Consult the local Intake/exhaust manifold(s)
parts store on price and availability to make the final repair/replace Oil filter
decision. Engine mounts
Some of the rebuilding alternatives include: Clutch and flywheel/driveplate
2С-8 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

9.3 Use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring, then

remove the keepers with needle-nose pliers or a small magnet
9.2 A small plastic bag, with an appropriate label, can be used to
store the valve train components so they can be kept together 9 Cylinder head - disassembly
and reinstalled in the correct guide
Refer to illustrations 9.2, 9.3 and 9.4
Note: New and rebuilt cylinder heads are commonly available for most
Note: When removing the external components from the engine, pay engines at dealerships and auto parts stores. Due to the fact that some
close attention to details that may be helpful or important during instal- specialized tools are necessary for the disassembly and inspection
lation. Note the installed position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins, procedures, and some parts may not be readily available, it may be
brackets, washers, bolts and other small items. more practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase
4 If you're obtaining a short block, which consists of the engine replacement head(s) rather than taking the time to disassemble, inspect
block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all assembled, then the and recondition the original(s).
cylinder head(s), oil pan and oil pump will have to be removed as well. 1 Cylinder head disassembly involves removal of the intake and
See Engine rebuilding alternatives for additional information regarding exhaust valves and related components. If they're still in place, remove
the different possibilities to be considered. the rocker arm bolts, pivots and rocker arms from the cylinder head
5 If you're planning a complete overhaul, the engine must be studs. Label the parts or store them separately so they can be
disassembled and the internal components removed in the following reinstalled in their original locations.
order: 2 Before the valves are removed, arrange to label and store them,
Valve cover(s) along with their related components, so they can be kept separate and
Intake and exhaust manifolds reinstalled in the same valve guides they were removed from (see
Rocker arms and pushrods illustration).
Cylinder headfs) 3 Compress the springs on the first valve with a spring compressor
Valve lifters and remove the keepers (see illustration). Carefully release the valve
Timing cover spring compressor and remove the retainer, the spring and the spring
Timing chain and sprockets seat (if used).
Camshaft 4 Pull the valve out of the head, then remove the oil seal from the
Oil pan guide. If the valve binds in the guide (won't pull through), push it back
Oil pump into the head and deburr the area around the keeper groove with a fine
Piston/connecting rod assemblies file or whetstone (see illustration).
Crankshaft and main bearings 5 Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves. Remember to
keep all the parts for each valve together so they can be reinstalled in
6 Before beginning the disassembly and overhaul procedures, the same locations.
make sure the following items are available. Also, refer to Section 21 6 Once the valves and related components have been removed and
for a list of tools and materials needed for engine reassembly. stored in an organized manner, the head should be thoroughly cleaned
Common hand tools and inspected. If a complete engine overhaul is being done, finish the
Small cardboard boxes or plastic bags for storing parts engine disassembly procedures before beginning the cylinder head
Gasket scraper cleaning and inspection process.
Ridge reamer
Vibration damper puller
Micrometers 10 Cylinder head - cleaning and inspection
Telescoping gauges
Dial-indicator set
Valve spring compressor Cleaning
Cylinder surfacing hone Refer to illustrations 10.12, 10.14, 10.15, 10.16, 10.17 and 10.18
Piston ring groove-cleaning tool 1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head(s) and related valve train
Electric drill motor components, followed by a detailed inspection, will enable you to
Tap and die set decide how much valve service work must be done during the engine
Wire brushes overhaul. Note: If the engine was severely overheated, the cylinder
Oil gallery brushes head is probably warped (see Step 12),
Cleaning solvent 2 Scrape all traces of old gasket material and sealing compound off
the head gasket, intake manifold and exhaust manifold sealing
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-9

9.4 If the valve won't pull through the 10.12 Check the cylinder head surface for 10.14 A dial indicator can be used to
guide, deburr the edge of the stem and warpage by trying to slip a feeler gauge determine the valve stem-to-guide
the area around the top of the keeper under the straightedge - see the clearance (move the stem as indicated by
groove with a file Specifications for the maximum warpage the arrows)
and use a feeler gauge of that size

surfaces. Be very careful not to gouge the cylinder head. Special that's beyond the scope of the home mechanic.
gasket removal solvents that soften gaskets and make removal much 14 Check the valve stem-to-guide clearance by measuring the lateral
easier are available at auto parts stores. movement of the valve stem with a dial indicator attached securely to
3 Remove all built up scale from the coolant passages. the head (see illustration). The valve must be in the guide and approx-
4 Run a stiff wire brush through the various holes to remove imately 1/16-inch off the seat. The total valve stem movement
deposits that may have formed in them. indicated by the gauge needle must be divided by two to obtain the
5 Run an appropriate size tap into each of the threaded holes to actual clearance. After this is done, if there's still some doubt regarding
remove corrosion and thread sealant that may be present. If the condition of the valve guides, they should be checked by an
compressed air is available, use it to clear the holes of debris produced automotive machine shop (the cost should be minimal), if the clearance
by this operation. Warning: Wear eye protection when using is excessive, the machine shop will have to install new valve guides in
compressed air! the head(s).
6 Clean the rocker arm pivot bolt threads with a wire brush.
7 Clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry it thoroughly. Valves
Compressed air will speed the drying process and ensure that all holes 15 Carefully inspect each valve for uneven wear, deformation,
and recessed areas are clean. Note: Decarbonizing chemicals are cracks, pits and burned areas (see illustration). Check the valve stem
available and may prove very useful when cleaning cylinder heads and for scuffing and galling and the neck for cracks. Rotate the valve and
valve train components. They are very caustic and should be used with check for any obvious indication that it's bent. Look for pits and
caution. Be sure to follow the instructions on the container. excessive wear on the end of the stem. The presence of any of these
8 Clean the rocker arms, pivot balls or fulcrums, nuts or bolts and conditions indicates the need for valve service by an automotive
pushrods with solvent and dry them thoroughly (don't mix them up
during the cleaning process). Compressed air will speed the drying
process and can be used to clean out the oil passages.
9 Clean all the valve springs, spring seats, keepers and retainers (or
rotators) with solvent and dry them thoroughly. Do the components
from one valve at a time to avoid mixing up the parts.
10 Scrape off any heavy deposits that may have formed on the
valves, then use a motorized wire brush to remove deposits from the
valve heads and stems. Again, make sure the valves don't get mixed
up.

Inspection
Note: Be sure to perform all of the following inspection procedures
before concluding that machine shop work is required. Make a list of
the items that need attention.

Cylinder head
11 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks, evidence of coolant
leakage and other damage. If cracks are found, check with an
automotive machine shop concerning repair. If repair isn't possible, a
new cylinder head should be obtained.
12 Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, check the head gasket NEW VALVE WORN VALVE
mating surface for warpage (see illustration). If the warpage exceeds
the specified limit, it can be resurfaced at an automotive machine 10.15 Check for valve wear at the points shown here:
shop. Note: If the V8 engine heads are resurfaced, the intake manifold
flanges may also require machining. 1 Valve tip 4 Stem (most worn area)
13 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. If 2 Keeper groove 5 Valve face
they're pitted, cracked or burned, the head will require valve service 3 Stem (least worn area) 6 Margin
2С-10 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

10.17 Measure the length of each valve spring with a dial or

vernier caliper
10.16 Valve margin width must be as specified (if no margin
exists, the valve cannot be reused) damaged threads and secure installation.
23 Any damaged or excessively worn parts must be replaced with
new ones.
machine shop. 24 If the inspection process indicates that the valve components are
16 Measure the margin width on each valve (see illustration). Any in generally poor condition and worn beyond the limits specified, which
valve with a margin narrower than that listed in this Chapter's Specifi- is usually the case in an engine that's being overhauled, reassemble
cations will have to be replaced with a new one. the valves in the cylinder head and refer to Section 11 for valve
servicing recommendations.
Valve components
17 Check each valve spring for wear (on the ends) and pits. Measure
the free length and compare it to this Chapter's Specifications (see
11 Valves - servicing
illustration). Any springs that are shorter than specified have sagged
and should not be reused. The tension of all springs should be
checked with a special fixture before deciding that they're suitable for Refer to illustrations 11.3a and 11.3b
use in a rebuilt engine (take the springs to an automotive machine 1 Because of the complex nature of the job and the special tools
shop for this check). and equipment needed, servicing of the valves, the valve seats and the
18 Stand each spring on a flat surface and check it for squareness valve guides, commonly known as a valve job, should be done by a
(see illustration). If any of the springs are distorted or sagged, replace professional.
all of them with new parts. Springs that aren't square can cause
accelerated guide wear.
19 Check the spring retainers (or rotators) and keepers for obvious
wear and cracks. Any questionable parts should be replaced with new
ones, as extensive damage will occur if they fail during engine
operation.
Rocker arm components
20 Check the rocker arm faces (the areas that contact the pushrod
ends and valve stems) for pits, wear, galling, score marks and rough
spots. Check the rocker arm pivot contact areas and pivots as well.
Look for cracks in each rocker arm and nut or bolt.
21 Inspect the pushrod ends for scuffing and excessive wear. Roll
each pushrod on a flat surface, like a piece of plate glass, to determine
if it's bent.
22 Check the rocker arm bolt holes in the cylinder heads for

11 .За The valve seats are ground at the machine shop using a
machine like this one - the precisely-shaped grinding stone is
centered on a mandrel in the new valve guide, making the new
10.18 Check each spring for squareness
seat concentric to the guide
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-11

12 Cylinder head - reassembly

Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.6 and 12.8

1 Regardless of whether or not a head was sent to an automotive
repair shop for valve servicing, make sure it's clean before beginning
reassembly.
2 If a head was sent out for valve servicing, the valves and related
components will already be in place. Begin the reassembly procedure
with Step 8.
3 Install new seals on each of the intake valve guides. Gently push
each seal into place until it's completely seated on the guide {see
illustration). Don't twist or cock the seals during installation or they
won't seal properly on the valve stems. The intake seals can be
installed with a deep socket and a small mallet, but do not drive them
on past seating. The umbrella-type seals for the exhaust valves simply
push on. Note: The intake and exhaust seals are different, so do not
mix them up.
4 Beginning at one end of the head, lubricate and install the first
valve. Apply moly-base grease or clean engine oil to the valve stem.
11.3b A machine like this mills a new, flat surface on heads that 5 Drop the valve springs and retainers in place and apply pressure
are warped with the spring compressor.
6 Position the keepers in the upper groove, then slowly release the
compressor and make sure the keepers seat properly. Apply a small
2 The home mechanic can remove and disassemble the head(s), do dab of grease to each keeper to hold it in place if necessary (see
the initial cleaning and inspection, then reassemble and deliver it (or illustration).
them) to a dealer service department or an automotive machine shop 7 Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves. Be sure to return
for the actual service work. Doing the inspection will enable you to see the components to their original locations - don't mix them up!
what condition the head and valvetrain components are in and will 8 Check the installed valve spring height with a ruler graduated in
ensure that you know what work and new parts are required when 1/32-inch increments or a dial caliper. If the head was sent out for
dealing with an automotive machine shop. service work, the installed height should be correct (but don't automat-
3 The dealer service department, or automotive machine shop, will ically assume that it is). The measurement is taken from the top of each
remove the valves and springs, recondition or replace the valves and spring seat or shim(s) to the bottom of the retainer (see illustration). If
valve seats (see illustration), recondition the valve guides, check and the height is greater than specified, shims can be added under the
replace the valve springs, spring retainers or rotators and keepers (as springs to correct it. Caution: Don't, under any circumstances, shim
necessary), replace the valve seals with new ones, reassemble the the springs to the point where the installed height is less than specified.
valve components and make sure the installed spring height is correct. 9 Apply moly-base grease to the rocker arm faces and the pivots,
The cylinder head gasket surface will also be resurfaced if it's warped then install the rocker arms and pivots on the cylinder head, returning
(see illustration). On V8 engines, both heads must be surfaced the them to their original locations.
same amount, and if more than .020-inch is taken off, the bottom and
sides of the intake manifold must also be machined so that all passage
and holes still line up properly. 13 Pistons/connecting rods - removal
4 After the valve job has been performed by a professional, the
head will be in like-new condition. When the head is returned, be sure
Refer to illustrations 13.1, 13.3 and 13.6
to clean it again before installation on the engine to remove any metal
particles and abrasive grit that may still be present from the valve Note: Prior to removing the piston/connecting rod assemblies, remove
service or head resurfacing operations. Use compressed air, if the cylinder head(s), the oil pan and the oil pump by referring to the
available, to blow out all the oil holes and passages. appropriate Sections in Chapter 2A or 2B.

12.3 On intake valves, use a small mallet

and a seal installer or deep socket to
gently tap the seal onto the boss on the
head - umbrella-type exhaust-valve seals 12.6 Apply a small dab of grease to each 12.8 Be sure to check the valve spring
do not need to be tapped onto the boss keeper as shown here before installation - installed height (the distance from the top
1 Exhaust seal 2 Intake seal it will hold them in place on the valve stem of the seat/shims to the top of the shield
as the spring is released or the bottom of the retainer)
2С-12 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

13.1 A ridge reamer is required to remove 13.3 Check the connecting rod side 13.6 To prevent damage to the crankshaft
the ridge from the top of each cylinder - clearance (endplay) with a feeler gauge as journals and cylinder walls, slip sections
do this before removing the pistons! shown here of rubber hose over the rod bolts before
removing the piston/rod assemblies

1 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has formed at the upper limit piston is removed (see illustration).
of ring travel (about 1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder). If 7 Remove the bearing insert and push the connecting rod/piston
carbon deposits or cylinder wear have produced ridges, they must be assembly out through the top of the engine. Use a wooden hammer
completely removed with a special tool (see illustration). Follow the handle to push on the upper bearing surface in the connecting rod. If
manufacturer's instructions provided with the tool. Failure to remove resistance is felt, double-check to make sure that all of the ridge was
the ridges before attempting to remove the piston/connecting rod removed from the cylinder.
assemblies may result in piston breakage. 8 Repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders.
2 After the cylinder ridges have been removed, turn the engine 9 After removal, reassemble the connecting rod caps and bearing
upside-down so the crankshaft is facing up. inserts in their respective connecting rods and install the cap nuts
3 Before the connecting rods are removed, check the endplay with finger tight. Leaving the old bearing inserts in place until reassembly
feeler gauges. Slide them between the first connecting rod and the will help prevent the connecting rod bearing surfaces from being
crankshaft throw until the play is removed (see illustration). The accidentally nicked or gouged.
endplay is equal to the thickness of the feeler gauge(s). If the endplay 10 Don't separate the pistons from the connecting rods (see
exceeds the service limit, new connecting rods will be required. If new Section 18 for additional information).
rods (or a new crankshaft) are installed, the endplay may fall under the
specified minimum (if it does, the rods will have to be machined to
restore it - consult an automotive machine shop for advice if 14 Crankshaft - removal
necessary). Repeat the procedure for the remaining connecting rods.
4 Check the connecting rods and caps for identification marks. If
Refer to illustrations 14.1, 14.3 and 14.4
they aren't plainly marked, use a small center punch to make the
Note: The crankshaft can be removed only after the engine has been
appropriate number of indentations on each rod and cap (1, 2, 3, etc.,
removed from the vehicle. It's assumed that the flywheel or driveplate,
depending on the engine type and cylinder they're associated with).
5 Loosen each of the connecting rod cap nuts 1/2-turn at a time vibration damper, timing chain, oil pan, oil pump and piston/connecting
until they can be removed by hand. Remove the number one rod assemblies have already been removed.
connecting rod cap and bearing insert. Don't drop the bearing insert 1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check the endplay. Mount a
out of the cap. dial indicator with the stem in line with the crankshaft and just touching
6 Slip a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting one of the crank throws or the nose of the crank (see illustration).
rod cap bolt to protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall as the 2 Push the crankshaft all the way to the rear and zero the dial
indicator. Next, pry the crankshaft to the front as far as possible and

14.1 Checking the crankshaft endplay with a dial indicator 14.3 Checking crankshaft endplay with a feeler gauge
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-13

14.4 Main caps are generally numbered 15.1 The core plugs should be removed 15.8 All bolts in the block, particularly the
front to rear (arrow) - on the 5.2L V8 the carefully by tapping in one side, then main bearing cap and head bolt holes,
numbers are on the passenger side pulling out the opposite side with should be cleaned with the
of the caps locking pliers proper-sized tap

check the reading on the dial indicator. The distance that it moves is 5 The engine should be taken to an automotive machine shop to be
the endplay. If it's greater than specified, check the crankshaft thrust steam cleaned or hot tanked, although with patience it can be cleaned
surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident, new main bearings should at home.
correct the endplay. 6 After the block is returned, clean all oil holes and oil galleries one
3 If a dial-indicator isn't available, feeler gauges can be used. more time. Brushes specifically designed for this purpose are available
Gently pry or push the crankshaft all the way to the front of the engine. at most auto parts stores. Flush the passages with warm water until
Slip feeler gauges between the crankshaft and the front face of the the water runs clear, dry the block thoroughly and wipe all machined
thrust main bearing to determine the clearance (see illustration). surfaces with a light, rust-preventive oil. If you have access to
4 Check the main bearing caps to see if they're marked to indicate compressed air, use it to speed the drying process and to blow out all
their locations. They should be numbered consecutively from the front the oil holes and galleries. Warning: Wear eye protection when using
of the engine to the rear (see illustration). If they aren't, mark them compressed air!
with number-stamping dies or a center punch. Main bearing caps often 7 If the block isn't extremely dirty or sludged up, you can do an
have a cast-in arrow, which points to the front of the engine. If not, adequate cleaning job with hot soapy water and a stiff brush. Take
mark a paint arrow before removing the main caps. Loosen the main plenty of time and do a thorough job. Regardless of the cleaning
bearing cap bolts 1/4-turn at a time each, until they can be removed by method used, be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
hand. Note if any stud bolts are used and make sure they're returned thoroughly, dry the block completely and coat all machined surfaces
to their original locations when the crankshaft is reinstalled. with light oil.
5 Gently tap the caps with a soft-face hammer, then separate them 8 The threaded holes in the block must be clean to ensure accurate
from the engine block. If necessary, use the bolts as levers to remove torque readings during reassembly. Run the proper size tap into each
the caps. Try not to drop the bearing inserts if they come out with the of the holes to remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or sludge and
caps. restore damaged threads (see illustration). If possible, use
6 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine. It may be a good compressed air to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation.
idea to have an assistant available, since the crankshaft is quite heavy. Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Now is a
With the bearing inserts in place in the engine block and main bearing good time to clean the threads on the head bolts and the main bearing
caps, return the caps to their respective locations on the engine block cap bolts as well.
and tighten the bolts finger tight. 9 Reinstall the main bearing caps and tighten the bolts finger tight.
10 After coating the sealing surfaces of the new core plugs with
Permatex no. 2 sealant, install them in the engine block (see
15 Engine block - cleaning

Refer to illustrations 15.1, 15.8 and 15.10

1 Most engine core plugs are corroded firmly in place on an engine
that has been in service for years. Use a small punch at the edge of the
plug and carefully drive that edge in with a hammer (see illustration).
Drive one edge in only far enough for the opposite side to protrude far
enough to grab it with locking pliers and pull out. Caution: The core
plugs (also known as freeze or soft plugs) may be difficult or impossible
to retrieve if they're driven completely into the block coolant passages.
2 Using a gasket scraper, remove all traces of gasket material from
the engine block. Be very careful not to nick or gouge the gasket
sealing surfaces.
3 Remove the main bearing caps and separate the bearing inserts
from the caps and the engine block. Tag the bearings, indicating which
cylinder they were removed from and whether they were in the cap or
the block, then set them aside.
4 Remove all of the threaded oil-gallery plugs from the block. The 15.10 A large socket on an extension can be used to drive the
plugs are usually very tight - they may have to be drilled out and the new core plugs into the block - go slowly and stop when the plug
holes retapped. Use new plugs when the engine is reassembled. is evenly flush with the block
2С-14 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

16.4 Measure the diameter of each cylinder bore just under the
wear ridge (A), at the center (B), and at the bottom (C)

illustration). Make sure they're driven in straight and seated properly

or leakage could result. Special tools are available for this purpose, but
a large socket, with an outside diameter that will just slip into the core
plug, a 1/2-inch drive extension and a hammer will work just as well.
11 Apply non-hardening sealant (such as Permatex no. 2 or Teflon
pipe sealant) to the new oil gallery plugs and thread them into the holes
in the block. Make sure they're tightened securely.
12 If the engine isn't going to be reassembled right away, cover it
with a large plastic trash bag to keep it clean.

16 Engine block - inspection

Refer to illustrations 16.4, 16.11, 16.13a, 16.13b, and 16.13c

1 Before the block is inspected, it should be cleaned as described
in Section 15. 16.11 When an engine is bored at a machine shop, the cylinders
2 Visually check the block for cracks, rust and corrosion. Look for will then be straight, round, and perpendicular to the crankshaft
stripped threads in the threaded holes. It's also a good idea to have centerline, making for a long-lasting engine
the block checked for hidden cracks by an automotive machine shop
that has the special equipment to do this type of work. If defects are
found, have the block repaired, if possible, or replaced.
3 Check the cylinder bores for scuffing and scoring.
4 Measure the diameter of each cylinder at the top (just under the
ridge area), center and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the
crankshaft axis (see illustration).
5 Next, measure each cylinder's diameter at the same three
locations across the crankshaft axis. Compare the results to this
Chapter's Specifications.
6 If the required precision measuring tools aren't available, the
piston-to-cylinder clearances can be obtained, though not quite as
accurately, using feeler-gauge stock. Feeler gauge stock comes in 12-
inch lengths and various thicknesses and is generally available at auto
parts stores.
7 To check the clearance, select a feeler gauge and slip it into the 16.13a V8 crankshafts may have letters/numbers stamped into
cylinder along with the matching piston. The piston must be positioned the number eight counterweight to indicate if it has undersize rod
exactly as it normally would be. The feeler gauge must be between the (R) or main (M) journals
piston and cylinder on one of the thrust faces (90-degrees to the
piston-pin bore).
8 The piston should slip through the cylinder (with the feeler gauge 12 If the cylinders are in reasonably-good condition and not worn to
in place) with moderate pressure. the outside of the limits, and if the piston-to-cylinder clearances can be
9 If it falls through or slides through easily, the clearance is maintained properly, then they don't have to be rebored. Honing is all
excessive and a new piston will be required. If the piston binds at the that's necessary (see Section 17).
lower end of the cylinder and is loose toward the top, the cylinder is 13 Some engines are produced with oversize or undersize
tapered. If tight spots are encountered as the piston/feeler gauge is components, such as oversize cylinder bores, undersize main bearing
rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is out-of-round. and connecting rod journals, or oversize camshaft bearing bores.
10 Repeat the procedure for the remaining pistons and cylinders. These engines are identified by a letter or symbol code stamped on the
11 If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, or if they're out- engine block, crankshaft or lifter valley. On V8 engines, undersize
of-round or tapered beyond the limits given in the specifications, have crankshaft journals are indicated by a letter "R" or "M" on the number
the engine block rebored and honed at an automotive machine shop 8 crank counterweight (see illustrations). A designation of "M-2-3"
(see illustration). If a rebore is done, oversize pistons and rings will be would indicate .001-inch-undersize journals on mains 2 and 3, while an
required. R prefix indicates which rod journals are undersize.
An engine with oversize tappet bores is marked with a stamped
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-15

16.13b V8 engine oversize/undersize markings

diamond-shape on the pad at the top front of the engine, while an "X"
stamped into the milled pad on the end of a cylinder head indicates
that there are oversize valve stems (0.005-inch).

17 Cylinder honing

Refer to illustrations 17.За and 17.3b

1 Prior to engine reassembly, the cylinder bores must be honed so
the new piston rings will seat correctly and provide the best possible
combustion-chamber seal. Note: If you don't have the tools or don't
want to tackle the honing operation, most automotive machine shops
will do it for a reasonable fee.
2 Before honing the cylinders, install the main bearing caps and
tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
3 Two types of cylinder hones are commonly available - the flex
DISTRIBUTOR hone or "bottle brush" type and the more traditional surfacing hone
IGNITION
COIL BOSS with spring-loaded stones. Both will do the job, but for the less
experienced mechanic the "bottle brush" hone will probably be easier
to use. You'll also need some kerosene or honing oil, rags and an
electric drill motor. Proceed as follows:
a) Mount the hone in the drill motor, compress the stones (if
applicable) and slip it into the first cylinder (see illustration). Бе
sure to wear safety goggles or a face shield!

16.13c The oversize/undersize codes on six-cylinder engines are 17.3a A "bottle brush" hone will produce better results if you've
on a pad between the distributor and ignition coil never honed cylinders before
2С-16 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

CROSSHATCH
PATTERN

17.3b The cylinder hone should leave a 18.4a The piston ring grooves can be
smooth, Crosshatch pattern with the lines cleaned with a special tool, as 18.4b ... or a section of a broken ring
intersecting at approximately a shown here...
60-degree angle

b) Lubricate the cylinder with plenty of honing oil or kerosene, turn 2 Using a piston-ring installation tool, carefully remove the rings
on the drill and move the hone up-and-down in the cylinder at a from the pistons. Be careful not to nick or gouge the pistons in the
pace that will produce a fine Crosshatch pattern on the cylinder process.
walls. Ideally, the Crosshatch lines should intersect at approxi- 3 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of the piston. A hand-
mately a 60-degree angle {see illustration). Be sure to use plenty held wire brush or a piece of fine emery cloth can be used once the
of lubricant and don't take off any more material than is absolutely majority of the deposits have been scraped away. Do not, under any
necessary to produce the desired finish. Note: Piston ring circumstances, use a wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove
manufacturers may specify a smaller Crosshatch angle than the deposits from the pistons. The piston material is soft and may be
traditional 60-degrees - read and follow any instructions included eroded away by the wire brush.
with the new rings. 4 Use a piston-ring groove cleaning tool to remove carbon deposits
c) Don't withdraw the hone from the cylinder while it's running. from the ring grooves. If a tool isn't available, a piece broken off the old
Instead, shut off the drill and continue moving the hone up-and- ring will do the job. Be very careful to remove only the carbon deposits
down in the cylinder until it comes to a complete stop, then - don't remove any metal and do not nick or scratch the sides of the
compress the stones and withdraw the hone. If you're using a ring grooves (see illustrations).
"bottle brush" type hone, stop the drill motor, then turn the chuck 5 Once the deposits have been removed, clean the piston/rod
in the normal direction of rotation while withdrawing the hone assemblies with solvent and dry them with compressed air (if
from the cylinder. available). Make sure the oil return holes in the back sides of the ring
d) Wipe the oil out of the cylinder and repeat the procedure for the grooves are clear.
remaining cylinders. 6 If the pistons and cylinder walls aren't damaged or worn
4 After the honing job is complete, chamfer the top edges of the excessively, and if the engine block is not rebored, new pistons won't
cylinder bores with a small file so the rings won't catch when the be necessary. Normal piston wear appears as even vertical wear on
pistons are installed. Be very careful not to nick the cylinder walls with the piston thrust surfaces and slight looseness of the top ring in its
the end of the file. groove. New piston rings, however, should always be used when an
5 The entire engine block must be washed again very thoroughly with engine is rebuilt.
warm, soapy water to remove all traces of the abrasive grit produced 7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt, at the
during the honing operation. Note: The bores can be considered clean pin bosses and at the ring lands.
when a lint-free white cloth - dampened with clean engine oil - used to 8 Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust faces of the skirt,
wipe them out doesn't pick up any more honing residue, which will show holes in the piston crown and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If
up as gray areas on the cloth. Be sure to run a brush through all oil holes the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been suffering from
and galleries and flush them with running water. overheating and/or abnormal combustion, which caused excessively
6 After rinsing, dry the block and apply a coat of light rust high operating temperatures. Such pistons should be replaced. The
preventive oil to all machined surfaces. Wrap the block in a plastic cooling and lubrication systems should be checked thoroughly. A hole
trash bag to keep it clean and set it aside until reassembly. in the piston crown is an indication that abnormal combustion
(preignition) was occurring. Burned areas at the edge of the piston
crown are usually evidence of spark knock (detonation). If any of the
18 Pistons/connecting rods - inspection above problems exist, the causes must be corrected or the damage
will occur again. The causes may include intake air leaks, incorrect
Refer to illustrations 18.4a, 18.4b, 18.10 and 18.11 fuel/air mixture, incorrect ignition timing and EGR system mal-
Note: The 1998 four-cylinder engine pistons are Moly-Coated after the functions.
final machining process. Measuring a coated piston will not provide an 9 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of small pits, indicates that
accurate measurement due to the thickness of the coating. To establish coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber and/or the crankcase.
the piston-to-cylinder clearance, accurate measurement of the cylinder Again, the cause must be corrected or the problem may persist in the
bore is mandatory and you must use a bore gauge capable of reading rebuilt engine.
0.0001 inch increments. These coated pistons can be installed in 10 Measure the piston ring side clearance by laying a new piston ring
previously built engines, but tin coated pistons should not be used as in each ring groove and slipping a feeler gauge in beside it (see
replacements for the Moly-Coated pistons. illustration). Check the clearance at three or four locations around
1 Before the inspection process can be carried out, the each groove. Be sure to use the correct ring for each groove - they are
piston/connecting rod assemblies must be cleaned and the original different. If the side clearance is greater than specified, new pistons
piston rings removed from the pistons. Note: Always use new piston will have to be used.
rings when the engine is reassembled. 11 Check the piston-to-bore clearance by measuring the bore (see
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-17

18.10 Check the ring side clearance with 18.11 Measure the piston diameter at a 19.6 Measure at several points around
a feeler gauge at several points around 90-degree angle to the piston pin and in each journal's circumference, then
the groove line with it measure at each end - this will help you
identify out-of-round and taper conditions

Section 16) and the piston diameter. Make sure the pistons and bores reground by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to use the correct-
are correctly matched. Measure the piston across the skirt, at a 90- size bearing inserts if the crankshaft is reconditioned.
degree angle to and in line with the piston pin (see illustration). 8 Check the oil seal journals at each end of the crankshaft for wear
Subtract the piston diameter from the bore diameter to obtain the and damage. If the seal has worn a groove in the journal, or if it's
clearance. If it's greater than specified, the block will have to be nicked or scratched, the new seal may leak when the engine is
rebored and new pistons and rings installed. reassembled. In some cases, an automotive machine shop may be
12 Check the piston-to-rod clearance by twisting the piston and rod able to repair the journal by pressing on a thin sleeve. If repair isn't
in opposite directions. Any noticeable play indicates excessive wear, feasible, a new or different crankshaft should be installed.
which must be corrected. The piston/connecting rod assemblies 9 Refer to Section 20 and examine the main and rod bearing
should be taken to an automotive machine shop to have the pistons inserts.
and rods resized and new pins installed.
13 If the pistons must be removed from the connecting rods for any
reason, they should be taken to an automotive machine shop. While 20 Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection
they are there, have the connecting rods checked for bend and twist,
since automotive machine shops have special equipment for this Refer to illustration 20.1
purpose. Note: Unless new pistons and/or connecting rods must be 1 Even though the main and connecting rod bearings should be
installed, do not disassemble the pistons and connecting rods. replaced with new ones during the engine overhaul, the old bearings
14 Check the connecting rods for cracks and other damage. should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable
Temporarily remove the rod caps, lift out the old bearing inserts, wipe information about the condition of the engine (see illustration).
the rod and cap bearing surfaces clean and inspect them for nicks,
gouges and scratches. After checking the rods, replace the old
bearings, slip the caps into place and tighten the nuts finger tight.
Note: If the engine is being rebuilt because of a connecting rod knock,
be sure to install new rods.

19 Crankshaft - inspection

Refer to illustration 19.6

1 Clean the crankshaft with solvent and dry it with compressed air
(if available). Be sure to clean the oil holes with a stiff brush and flush
them with solvent.
2 Check the main and connecting rod bearing journals for uneven
wear, scoring, pits and cracks.
3 Rub a penny across each journal several times. If a journal picks
up copper from the penny, it's too rough and must be reground.
4 Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil holes with a stone, file or
scraper.
5 Check the rest of the crankshaft for cracks and other damage. It
should be magnafluxed to reveal hidden cracks - an automotive
machine shop will handle the procedure.
6 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the main and
connecting rod journals and compare the results to the specifications
(see illustration). By measuring the diameter at a number of points
around each journal's circumference, you'll be able to determine
whether or not the journal is out-of-round. Take the measurement at
each end of the journal, near the crank throws, to determine if the 20.1 Before discarding the used bearings, examine them for
journal is tapered. indications of any possible problems with the crankshaft,
7 If the crankshaft journals are damaged, tapered, out-of-round or noting the bearing location it came from - these are typical
worn beyond the limits given in the specifications, have the crankshaft bearing failures
2С-18 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack of lubrication, the Gasket sealant

presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine and Thread locking compound
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, it must be 2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly
corrected before the engine is reassembled to prevent it from must be done in the following general order:
happening again. New camshaft bearings (must be done by automotive
3 When examining the bearings, remove them from the engine machine shop)
block, the main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps Piston rings
and lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as Crankshaft and main bearings
their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing Piston/connecting rod assemblies
problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Oil pump
4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into the engine in a variety of Camshaft and lifters
ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or it may pass Oil pan
through filters or the PCV system. It may get into the oil, and from there Timing chain and sprockets
into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal Cylinder head(s), pushrods and rocker arms
engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in engine Timing cover
components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not Intake and exhaust manifolds
thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the Rocker arm cover(s)
source, these foreign objects often end up embedded in the soft Flywheel/driveplate
bearing material and are easily recognized. Large particles will not
embed in the bearing and will score or gouge the bearing and journal.
The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all parts 22 Crankshaft - installation and main bearing oil
thoroughly and keep everything spotlessly clean during engine
clearance check
assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also
recommended.
5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of 1 If you have determined that the engine overhaul will include
interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading having the crankshaft "turned" at a machine shop to a standard
(which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage or throw undersize such as 0.010-inch on the rod and main journals, bearing
off (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine selection will be easy. You simply order a standard bearing set that is
speeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages, correct for a 0.010-inch-reground crankshaft. Even with a reground
which usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, crank and new bearings, a clearance check is still required before final
will also oil starve a bearing and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is assembly (see Step 6).
the cause of bearing failure, the bearing material is wiped or extruded 2 On the factory engine assembly line, journals and bearings may
from the steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures may increase to vary slightly in size, and cranks and bearings are color-coded to match
the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. the right bearing with the right journal for a perfect fit. If you are using a
6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Low standard-size crankshaft, you can match the correct new bearings to
speed operation in too high a gear (lugging the engine) puts very high the crank by referring to the charts in Section 16. An automotive
loads on bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil film. These loads machine shop that specializes in engine rebuilding will be able to help
cause the bearings to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing you select the correct bearings.
face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bearing material will loosen in 3 The color code appears on the edge of the bearing insert.
pieces and tear away from the steel backing. Short-trip driving leads to 4 The journal size codes are generally painted on the adjacent
corrosion of bearings because insufficient engine heat is produced to cheek toward the flanged end (rear) of the crankshaft, except for the
drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products rear main bearing journal, which is color marked on the rear crank
collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried to flange on six-cylinder engines. On V8 engines, size codes are marked
the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing on the crankshaft rear flange with letters and numbers (see
material. Section 16).
7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to 5 To obtain a select fit, upper and lower bearing inserts of different
bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing sizes may be used as a pair. For example, a standard insert is
oil clearance and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles sometimes used in combination with a 0.001-inch undersize insert to
trapped behind a bearing insert result in high spots on the bearing reduce clearance by 0.0005-inch. Caution: Never use a pair of bearing
which lead to failure. inserts with a greater size difference than 0.001-inch. When replacing
inserts, the odd sized inserts must be either all on the top or all on the
bottom.
21 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence
Main bearing oil clearance check
Refer to illustrations 22.11 and 22.15
1 Before beginning engine reassembly, make sure you have all the
necessary new parts, gaskets and seals as well as the following items 6 Regardless of how the bearing sizes are determined, use the
on hand: Plastigage clearance procedure below as a guide to ensure the proper
Common hand tools size bearings are installed.
3/8-inch and 1/2-inch-drive torque wrenches 7 Clean the back sides of the new main bearing inserts and lay the
Piston ring installation tool bearing half with the oil groove in each main bearing saddle in the
Piston ring compressor block. Lay the other bearing half from each bearing set in the
Vibration damper installation tool corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure the tab on each bearing
Short lengths of rubber or plastic hose insert fits into the recess in the block or cap. Also, the oil holes in the
to fit over connecting rod bolts block must line up with the oil holes in the bearing insert. Caution: Do
Plastigage not hammer the bearings into place and don't nick or gouge the
Feeler gauges bearing faces. No lubrication should be used at this time.
A fine-tooth file 8 Clean the faces of the bearings in the block and the crankshaft
New engine oil main bearing journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check or clean the
Engine assembly lube or moly-base grease oil holes in the crankshaft, as any dirt here can go only one way -
straight through the new bearings.
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-19

22.11 Lay the Plastigage strips (arrow) on 22.15 Compare the width of the crushed 22.20a Install the new neoprene upper
the main bearing journals, parallel to the Plastigage to the scale on the envelope, seal half in the engine block ...
crankshaft centerline taking the measurement at the widest
point of the Plastigage
9 Once you're certain the crankshaft is clean, carefully lay it in 17 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the main
position in the main bearings. bearing journals and/or the bearing faces. Don't nick or scratch the
10 Before the crankshaft can be permanently installed, the main bearing faces (a plastic credit card edge does the job).
bearing oil clearance must be checked.
11 Trim several pieces of the appropriate-size Plastigage (they must Final crankshaft installation
be slightly shorter than the width of the main bearings) and place one Refer to illustrations 22.20a, 22.20b, 22.22a, 22.225 and 22.23
piece on each crankshaft main bearing journal, parallel with the journal
18 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine. Clean the bearing
axis (see illustration).
faces in the block, then apply a thin, uniform layer of engine assembly
12 Clean the faces of the bearings in the caps and install the caps in
lube to each of the bearing surfaces.
their respective positions (don't mix them up) with the arrows pointing
19 Lubricate the crankshaft surfaces that contact the oil seals with
toward the front of the engine. Don't disturb the Plastigage. Apply a
clean engine oil.
light coat of oil to the bolt threads and the under sides of the bolt
20 Install the upper half of the rear main seal into the block (see
heads, then install them.
illustrations) with the yellow paint facing the rear of the engine (V8
13 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts, in three steps, to the torque
engines) and the seal lip facing towards the front of the engine.
listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Don't rotate the crankshaft at
21 Make sure the crankshaft journals are clean, then lay the
any time during this operation!
crankshaft back in place in the block. Clean the faces of the bearings
14 Remove the bolts and carefully lift off the main bearing caps. in the caps, then apply lubricant to them. Install the caps in their
Keep them in order. Don't disturb the Plastigage or rotate the respective positions with the arrows pointing toward the front of the
crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are difficult to remove, tap engine.
them gently from side-to-side with a soft-face hammer to loosen them. 22 Apply a light coat of oil to the bolt threads and the under sides of
15 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on each journal to the bolt heads, then install them. Apply a dab of Loctite 515 on each
the scale printed on the Plastigage envelope to obtain the main
bearing oil clearance (see illustration). Check the Specifications to
make sure it's correct. Note: Make sure you are using the correct
scale, both metric and standard ones are included in the package.
16 If the clearance is not as specified, the bearing inserts may be the
wrong size (which means different ones will be required). Before
deciding that different inserts are needed, make sure that no dirt or oil
was between the bearing inserts and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigage is noticeably wider at one
end than the other, the journal may be tapered.

22.22a Apply Loctite 515 to the indicated area on the six-cylinder

engine rear main cap
22.20b ... with the seal lip (arrow) facing the front of the engine
2С-20 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

22.23 Install the new neoprene lower seal half in the rear
22.22b Sealant locations for V8 rear main caps
main cap

side of the rear main cap (see illustrations). up with the cylinder walls by pushing it in with the top of the piston
23 Install a new rear main oil seal lower half in the rear main cap (see (see illustration). The ring should be near the bottom of the cylinder,
illustration) and install the rear main cap. at the lower limit of ring travel.
24 Tighten all main bearing cap bolts, except the number three thrust 4 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges between the ends of
bearing cap, to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Pry the ring until a gauge equal to the gap width is found (see illustration).
the crankshaft slightly back and forth in the block to seat the thrust The feeler gauge should slide between the ring ends with a slight
bearings, then tighten the number 3 main cap to Specifications. amount of drag. Compare the measurement to the Specifications. If
25 Check the crankshaft endplay with a feeler gauge or a dial the gap is larger or smaller than specified, double-check to make sure
indicator as described in Section 14. The endplay should be correct if you have the correct rings before proceeding.
the crankshaft thrust faces aren't worn or damaged and new bearings 5 If the gap is too small, it must be enlarged or the ring ends may
have been installed. come in contact with each other during engine operation, which can
26 On manual transmission-equipped models, install a new pilot cause serious damage to the engine. The end gap can be increased by
bearing in the end of the crankshaft (see Chapter 8). filing the ring ends very carefully with a fine file. Mount the file in a vise
27 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand to check for any equipped with soft jaws, slip the ring over the file with the ends
obvious binding. contacting the file face and slowly move the ring to remove material
from the ends. When performing this operation, file only from the
outside in (see illustration). The ring ends must be filed squarely, and
23 Piston rings - installation any tiny burrs on the end should be removed before final ring instal-
lation.
Refer to illustrations 23.3, 23.4, 23.5, 23.9a, 23.9b, 23.12 and 23.13 6 Excess end gap isn't critical unless it's greater than 0.040-inch.
1 Before installing the new piston rings, the ring end gaps must be Again, double-check to make sure you have the correct rings for your
checked. It's assumed that the piston ring side clearance has been engine.
checked and verified correct (see Section 18). 7 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will be installed in the first
2 Lay out the piston/connecting rod assemblies and the new ring cylinder and for each ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
sets so the ring sets will be matched with the same piston and cylinder keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
during the end gap measurement and engine assembly. 8 Once the ring end gaps have been checked/corrected, the rings
3 Insert the top (number one) ring into the first cylinder and square it can be installed on the pistons.

23.3 When checking piston ring end gap, 23.4 With the ring square in the cylinder, 23.5 If the end gap is too small, clamp a
the ring must be square in the cylinder measure the end gap with feeler gauges fine file in a vise and file ring ends a little
bore - use a piston to push it down near at a time and re-measure in the bore
the bottom of ring travel
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-21

23.9a Installing the spacer/expander in the oil control ring groove 23.9b Slip the oil ring side rails in by hand - do not use
a ring expander

9 The oil control ring (lowest one on the piston) is usually installed 13 Install the number one (top) ring in the same manner. Make sure
first. It's normally composed of three separate components. Slip the the mark (dot) is facing up. Be careful not to confuse the number one
spacer/expander into the groove (see illustration). If an anti-rotation and number two rings. The number one (top) ring must be installed
tang is used, make sure it's inserted into the drilled hole in the ring with its chamfer UP while the second ring must have the chamfer
groove. Next, install the lower side rail. Don't use a piston ring instal- DOWN (see illustration). Generally, the second ring has two dots on
lation tool on the oil ring side rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, the UP side, and the top ring has one dot on the UP side. Check the
place one end of the side rail into the groove between the instructions with the ring set your are using.
spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it firmly in place and slide a 14 Repeat the procedure for the remaining pistons and rings.
finger around the piston while pushing the rail into the groove (see
illustration). Next, install the upper side rail in the same manner.
10 After the three oil ring components have been installed, check to 24 Pistons/connecting rods - installation and rod bearing
make sure that both the upper and lower side rails can be turned oil clearance check
smoothly in the ring groove.
11 The number two (middle) ring is installed next. It's usually
stamped with a mark which must face up, toward the top of the piston. Refer to illustrations 24.5, 24.9, 24.11, 24.13 and 24.17
The chamfer on the number two ring must face down on all engines, 1 Before installing the piston/connecting rod assemblies, the
with two dots facing up on the six-cylinder engines and on V8's, the ID cylinder walls must be perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder
mark is a drill point, a stamped letter O, an oval depression or the word must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must be in place.
TOP. Note: Always follow the instructions printed on the ring package 2 Remove the cap from the end of the number one connecting rod
or box - different manufacturers may require different approaches. Do (refer to the marks made during removal). Remove the original bearing
not mix up the top and middle rings, as they have different cross inserts and wipe the bearing surfaces of the connecting rod and cap
sections. with a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept spotlessly clean.
12 Use a piston ring installation tool and make sure the identification
mark is facing the top of the piston, then slip the ring into the middle Connecting rod bearing oil clearance check
groove on the piston (see illustration). Don't expand the ring any more 3 Clean the back side of the new upper bearing insert, then lay it in
than necessary to slide it over the piston. place in the connecting rod. Make sure the tab on the bearing fits into
the recess in the rod. Don't hammer the bearing insert into place and
be very careful not to nick or gouge the bearing face. Don't lubricate
the bearing at this time.
4 Clean the back side of the other bearing insert and install it in the

23.12 Install the compression rings using a ring-expander tool 23.13 The chamfer on the second ring must face DOWN, while it
like this one - note that the mark (arrow) on the ring should must be UP on the top ring - don't mix the two up
face UP
2С-22 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

24.9 The notch (arrow) on the pistons must face forward

24.5 Position the piston ring gaps as shown here before installing
the piston/connecting rod assemblies in the engine

rod cap. Again, make sure the tab on the bearing fits into the recess in
the cap, and don't apply any lubricant. It's critically important that the
mating surfaces of the bearing and connecting rod are perfectly clean
and oil free when they're assembled.
5 Position the piston ring gaps at intervals around the piston (see
illustration). 24.11 Drive the piston in gently with the end of a wooden hammer
6 Slip a section of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod handle - go evenly and stop if you feel an obstruction
cap bolt.
7 Lubricate the piston and rings with clean engine oil and attach a
13 Cut a piece of the appropriate size Plastigage slightly shorter than
piston-ring compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt protruding about
the width of the connecting rod bearing and lay it in place on the
1/4-inch to guide the piston into the cylinder. The rings must be
number one connecting rod journal, parallel with the journal axis (see
compressed until they're flush with the piston.
illustration).
8 Rotate the crankshaft until the number one connecting rod journal
14 Clean the connecting rod cap bearing face, remove the protective
is at BDC (bottom dead center) and apply a coat of engine oil to the
hoses from the connecting rod bolts and install the rod cap. Make sure
cylinder walls.
the mating mark on the cap is on the same side as the mark on the
9 With the arrow or notch on top of the piston (see illustration)
connecting rod.
facing the front of the engine, gently insert the piston/connecting rod
15 Install the nuts and tighten them to the torque listed in this
assembly into the number one cylinder bore and rest the bottom edge
Chapter's Specifications, working up to it in three steps. Note: Use a
of the ring compressor on the engine block.
thin-wall socket to avoid erroneous torque readings that can result if
10 Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to make sure it's
the socket is wedged between the rod cap and nut. If the socket tends
contacting the block around its entire circumference.
to wedge itself between the nut and the cap, lift up on it slightly until it
11 Gently tap on the top of the piston with the end of a wooden
no longer contacts the cap. Do not rotate the crankshaft at any time
hammer handle (see illustration) while guiding the end of the
during this operation.
connecting rod into place on the crankshaft journal. The piston rings
16 Remove the nuts and detach the rod cap, being very careful not
may try to pop out of the ring compressor just before entering the
to disturb the Plastigage.
cylinder bore, so keep some downward pressure on the ring
17 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage to the scale printed
compressor. Work slowly, and if any resistance is felt as the piston
on the Plastigage envelope to obtain the oil clearance (see
enters the cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what's hanging up and
illustration). Compare it to the Specifications to make sure the
fix it before proceeding. Do not, for any reason, force the piston into
clearance is correct.
the cylinder - you might break a ring and/or the piston.
18 If the clearance is not as specified, the bearing inserts may be the
12 Once the piston/connecting rod assembly is installed, the
wrong size (which means different ones will be required). Before
connecting rod bearing oil clearance must be checked before the rod
deciding that different inserts are needed, make sure that no dirt or oil
cap is permanently bolted in place.
was between the bearing inserts and the connecting rod or cap when
 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures 2C-23

24.13 Lay the Plastigage strips on each rod bearing journal, 24.17 Measure the width of the crushed Plastigage to determine
parallel to the crankshaft centerline the rod bearing oil clearance and compare it to the Specifications

the clearance was measured. Also, recheck the journal diameter. If the and exhaust manifolds and accessories, all of which are covered in
Plastigage was wider at one end than the other, the journal may be Chapter 2, Part A (six-cylinder) or Part В (V8).
tapered, in which case the crankshaft needs to be machined.

Final connecting rod installation 25 Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul
19 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the rod
journal and/or bearing face. Be very careful not to scratch the bearing - Warning: Have a fire extinguisher handy when starting the engine for
use your fingernail or the edge of a credit card. the first time.
20 Make sure the bearing faces are perfectly clean, then apply a 1 Once the engine has been installed in the vehicle, double-check
uniform layer of clean moly-base grease or engine assembly lube to the engine oil and coolant levels.
both of them. You'll have to push the piston into the cylinder to expose 2 With the spark plugs out of the engine and the ignition system
the face of the bearing insert in the connecting rod - be sure to slip the disabled (see Section 3), crank the engine until oil pressure registers on
protective hoses over the rod bolts first. the gauge or the light goes out.
21 Slide the connecting rod back into place on the journal, remove 3 Install the spark plugs, connect the plug wires and restore the
the protective hoses from the rod cap bolts, install the rod cap and ignition system functions (Section 3).
tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 4 Start the engine. It may take a few moments for the fuel system to
Again, work up to the torque in three steps. build up pressure, but the engine should start without a great deal of
22 Repeat the entire procedure for the remaining pistons/connecting effort. Note: If backfiring occurs through the carburetor or throttle
rods. body, recheck the valve timing and ignition timing.
23 The important points to remember are: 5 After the engine starts, it should be allowed to warm up to normal
a) Keep the back sides of the bearing inserts and the insides of the operating temperature. Do not allow the engine to exceed a fast idle
connecting rods and caps perfectly clean when assembling them. until the hydraulic lifters have bled down and become quiet again
b) Make sure you have the correct piston/rod assembly for each (usually about five minutes).
cylinder. 6 While the engine is warming up, make a thorough check for fuel,
c) The notch or mark on the piston must face the front of the engine. oil and coolant leaks. If a new camshaft and lifters have been installed
d) Stagger the ring end gaps {see illustration 24.5). during the overhaul, the engine should run at a fast idle for 15 minutes
e) Lubricate the cylinder walls with clean oil. (keep an eye on the temperature gauge and don't allow the engine to
f) Lubricate the bearing faces when installing the rod caps after the overheat) to "break in" the cam and lifters.
oil clearance has been checked. 6 Shut the engine off and recheck the engine oil and coolant levels.
24 After all the piston/connecting rod assemblies have been properly 7 Drive the vehicle to an area with minimum traffic, accelerate from
installed, rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand to check for 30 to 50 mph, then allow the vehicle to slow to 30 mph with the throttle
any obvious binding. closed. Repeat the procedure 10 or 12 times. This will load the piston
25 As a final step, the connecting rod endplay must be checked. rings and cause them to seat properly against the cylinder walls.
Refer to Section 13 for this procedure. Check again for oil and coolant leaks.
26 Compare the measured end-play to the Specifications to make 8 Drive the vehicle gently for the first 500 miles (no sustained high
sure it's correct. If it was correct before disassembly and the original speeds) and keep a constant check on the oil level. It is not unusual for
crankshaft and rods were reinstalled, it should still be right. If new rods an engine to use oil during the break-in period.
or a new crankshaft were installed, the endplay may be inadequate. If 9 At approximately 500 to 600 miles, change the oil and filter.
so, the rods will have to be removed and taken to an automotive 10 For the next few hundred miles, drive the vehicle normally. Do not
machine shop for resizing. pamper it or abuse it.
27 The balance of the engine assembly work is in attaching the 11 After 2000 miles, change the oil and filter again and consider the
cylinder heads, valvetrain, front cover, water pump, flywheel, intake engine broken in.
2С-24 Chapter 2 Part С General engine overhaul procedures

Notes