Service Manual

Servicing must be carried out using antistatic etc...........

Equipment required:

High speed oscilloscope,

Audio Precision System1 or equivalent
3 x dummy loads 8 ohm, 100W etc..........

Refer to circuit diagram, parts list, illustrations, set-up procedure and component
overlay before undertaking any servicing.

Establishing the fault:

Symptom: Is the whole system dead – no sound and no LED’s lit?

Check 1. Test the mains supply and the fuse on the back panel. If blown, the fuse should be
replaced using the correct value (T5A HBC for 240V, T10A HBC for 120V). If the new fuse
also blows there is an internal fault.

Symptom: Does the speaker have one or more drive units working but others silent?

Check 2. If a single drive unit is silent, it is likely that the drive unit itself should be
replaced. If both mid and high bands are silent, it points to an internal fault such as blown
power supply fuses on mid and high amp sections, which in turn may mean faulty MF or HF
amps. If both LF drivers are silent, it means the power supply fuse in the LF amp is blown,
and/or the LF amp itself. To replace internal fuses, follow instructions on removing the
amplifier module.

Symptom: Is the red LED illuminated?

Check 3. Is the amp module extremely hot? The red LED can signify overheating, the
thermal protection trips at a heatsink temperature of 70 deg.C. Overheating can be caused by
a lack of ventilation, which is obviously very bad for the amp module, if overheating occurs
in a well ventilated system, it indicates an internal fault.
Other causes of the red LED lighting up would be that an excessive current has been
detected at the output, or a DC fault, caused by a blown output device, has developed. Firstly
try to reset the speaker by switching off, waiting 10 seconds, and powering up again. If this
does not remedy the situation, an internal fault is present.

Symptom: Does the red LED light frequently on low to medium level signals, and speaker
output sounds distorted?

Check 4. A certain internal fault has been found to arise on some early production, which can
cause these symptoms, and perhaps make the unit shut down. To check for this fault see the
later section, Likely Faults.

Replacing drive units:

Before moving the speaker, fit drive unit protectors to mid and high drivers using masking
tape. The best method is to lay the speaker on its back on the bench, supporting the cabinet
above and below the amplifier module on two non-scratch blocks, so that no weight is resting
on the amp. The low and mid units have cover plates and gaskets which are removed
separately. If the drivers must be replaced in a standing unit it is best to make it a two-man
job, having a helper to hold the unit in place until all screws are taken out.
The drive units are secured using M4 screws, which require a 2.5mm Allen key to
remove. Do not allow a driver to hang on its wires, observe polarity and wire colour code
before desoldering, and use a high temperature iron of adequate power to give a generous
joint. Reassemble and tighten screws progressively in two or three passes, especially with the
mid driver, which uses three compressible gaskets, and is fully home when tightened down
evenly, flush and level. Cosmetically, try to get a straight line between mid and high drivers
if either one has been replaced.

Removing the amplifier module:

Before moving the speaker, fit drive unit protectors to mid and high drivers using masking
tape. With the speaker standing normally on its base, remove the four M5 bolts that secure
the amp module, using a 3mm Allen key. Remove the amplifier with care, the amp to cabinet
multipole connector will detach as the amp is withdrawn.
Place the module on it’s back on two supports so that no weight is resting on the
output connector. Remove the four screws that secure the cover, using a 2mm Allen key.
Turn the module over onto the heatsink side, taking care that the case does not shift from its
usual position. Remove the four pozidrive screws that secure the plate on which the
connector is mounted. The plate must be turned through 45deg. and passed through the
aperture in the case, so that the case can be lifted off. When the case has been removed, the
connector plate should be temporarily secured to the metalwork using two M3 screws (see
picture).
Servicing:
Check the fuses F1–5 for continuity. If any are blown, replace with the correct types
(T500mA – F1,2; T6.3A – F3; T2A – F4,5). Mains power should be supplied by a variable
transformer, the voltage should be maintained at 115V or 230V ON LOAD, depending on the
setting of the voltage changeover switch. The module can now be powered up and tests made
to trace the fault. DC voltages present are normally:
+5V on pin 3 of U7, and supply pins of U9,13,14,15,16; -5V on pin 3 of U8; +12V on pin 4
of U6; +/-13V on collectors of Q3,6; +/-50V on PSU side (inboard) pads of R113,115; +62V
on pins 1,2 of U11,12.
Scope probes should be set to x10 and the scope timebase to 1uS, Y-axis to 1V. Connect
input 1 to L2, U12 side, and input 2 to L1, U11 side. Normally two antiphase, 50% duty
cycle square waves should be observed under no stimulus conditions. Offset voltages at the
outputs of the three power amps should be up to +/-1mV for mid and high amps, measured
relative to ground on OUT 4 and OUT1 pins respectively, -500mV to +100mV measured
between +ve and -ve LF out pins.
If it is not possible to check some or all of these conditions, proceed to trace the faults as
follows: Wait until PSU voltages have subsided or discharge the PSU capacitors using probes
connected to a 100-ohm power resistor. Remove the connector to SW2 and remove the PCB
by removing the six securing screws, and the four screws that attach M7–10, and the screws
that hold M1–6 and SW1 to the bracket, and the connector plate.

Likely Faults:

Faults arising in the MF / HF power amp sections, usually indicated by blown fuses F4,5, are
probably caused by M1,2,3 or 5 having failed. They would usually measure as a near short
circuit using a multimeter across their pins, and should always be replaced in pairs (M1,2 or
M3,5). Their accompanying power resistors are likely to be damaged or may be open circuit,
and should always be replaced at the same time. The type of fault mentioned in Check 4, is
caused by R54,55,111 or 112 becoming open circuit, and it is possible to repair this just by
replacing the pair of resistors in question, if everything else checks out normally. Normal
readings are 690 ohms gate to source resistance M1,2; 790 ohms M3,5; several megohms
drain to source on all devices.

If the LF power amp section has failed, it is policy to replace drive guard modules U11,12,
with their on-board mosfets, along with other components which are likely to be damaged.
These are voltage regulators U6,7 and U9,15 logic chips. Although it may sound
straightforward, this job is a major undertaking and not every service department will be
comfortable with it.

Re- building, setting up and testing:

Replacement parts are obtainable by contacting Munro Associates. Probably the most
difficult part of the job is removing the old drive guard modules and sufficiently clearing the
PCB holes of solder to be able to fit the new ones.
When the new parts have fitted, the board can be powered up from a bench PSU
without having to reassemble onto the metalwork. Remove all fuses and connect the
following supplies to the ground plane and the inboard fuse clips: Ground to PSU ground
using any of the six mounting holes; F1,2 to +/-16V limited to 300mA; +5V to F3. Switch all
voltages on simultaneously and the relay should be heard to switch after 2 seconds. An
oscilloscope should be used to confirm that the outputs of U11,12 are switching, or failing
that, to trace back through the logic train to the modulator U10 output. If all is well
reassemble the PCB to the metalwork, insert fuses F1,2 and a bench PSU of 0-60V,
limited to 100mA to F3 clip. Power up from the mains and observe U11,12 output on the
scope as PSU voltage is gradually increased to 60V, switch off.
The LF amp power rail fuse F3 can now be inserted and attention turned to the MF
and HF amps. The bench PSU should be grounded to circuit ground and +/zero to 30V
supplies connected to F4,5 clips. The presets VR5,6 should be turned down (anticlockwise),
the amp powered up and the voltages turned up gradually. The current consumption should
be zero with VR5,6 down, and should increase to about 50mA at +/-30V when turned up.
Turn VR5,6 down again and switch off. Fuses F4,5 can now be fitted, and setup and test
procedures carried out as follows:

Voltmeters are required to:

1. Monitor supply voltage,
2. Set offset voltage on LF amp outputs,
3. Set Iq on HF & MF amp outputs,
4. Measure PSU and other voltages on the board relative to ground.

Post-variac supply should be continuously monitored and kept between about 226V and
234V while setting up and running tests.

1. DC checks / setup: preliminary settings:

Set VR5 & VR6 to minimum (anticlockwise) and piggyback (VR7) trimmer to half
rotation. Set Variac to supply 230V WHEN ON-LOAD and switch voltage selector to 240V
setting. The Sensitivity pot VR4 should be set to maximum (-10dB), EQ trims VR1-3 to 12
o'clock and LF alignment SW2 IN. Attach the 3 connectors to the test rig, and 10x scope
probes to U11,12 outputs on L1,2 and power up. The blue and red LED's should illuminate
followed by the red going out after 2 seconds; the relay should be heard to switch over at the
same time.
The LF out DC offset should immediately be set to -500mV by adjusting VR7. This
offset will drift positive as the module warms up and will settle at around 0V after a couple
of hours. Scope settings should be 1uS timebase, 1V per division, the waveform when the LF
amp starts to run should be two 50% duty cycle square waves, in opposite phase, of 62V
peak-peak amplitude with up to 20V overshoot and very little ringing. The probes do upset
the circuit so that the waveform shown is not exactly as it would be if nothing external were
connected. Remove scope probes after this check.
The next settings to be made are quiescent current (Iq) of HF and MF amplifiers. HF
current is set to 70mA +/-5% by setting VR5 until a voltage of 44 - 48mV is seen between
test points 1&2. MF current is set to 70mA +/-5% by setting VR6 until a voltage of 11-12mV
is seen between test points 7&4 or 5&8. Virtually any Iq settings will do for the purposes of
running the tests, Iq will be re-set later in the test procedure, stage 4.
Voltages appearing on the board should be +/-5V at the outputs of U7,8 or
convenient nodes connected to these; +12V on U6 pin 4 or pin 10 on U11,12; +/-13V on the
collectors of Q3,6; +/-50V on the pads for R113,115 (not used); and +62V on pins 1,2 of
U11,12.

2. Frequency response tests:

Reference curves should be stored on AP and the sequence of swept sine wave tests
should be run at
about 200mV or -10dBu signal, followed by bypassable 20dB pad, giving about 20mV or -
30dBu at the input XLR. The exact signal amplitude is to be decided by working back from
the correct level to clip the MF amp at 2kHz (see stage 3). Check unit is set to the following:
EQ's set to 12 o'clock, sensitivity maximum (-10dB), LF alignment IN. 4 measurements
should be run as follows, all with LF alignment switch OUT EXCEPT THE FIRST:

1. AP to LF out, Lo trim 12 o’clock, LF alignment in.

2. AP to LF out, Lo trim 12 o’clock, LF alignment out.
3. AP to MF out, Mid trim 12 o'clock.
4. AP to HF out, Hi trim 12 o'clock.