Lab Testing is mainly required for ensuring the quality, safety and compliance of the garments.

There
are three categories to perform the test: a. Performance Test- This is done for the testing of physical
properties. b. Regulatory Test- This is done for the testing of fiber content. c. Chemical Test- This is
performed for the testing of chemical properties which comes under RSL (Restricted Substance list).
Testing parameters vary in US, Japan, European Countries, China according to buyer’s protocol. These
are the 15 parameters followed by Pee Empro for testing: 9.1 Tear Strength Testing Test Method: ISO
13937-1/ ASTMD- 1424 9.1.1 Purpose To determine the force required to tear a fabric, staring from a
cut in the fabric. This test is for woven fabric only. 9.1.2 Equipment ● Elemendorf Tear Strength
Tester ● Measuring Tape ● Marker ● Scissor 9.1.3 Test Procedure ● Firstly, a rectangular swatch is
taken of determined measurement according to the ASTM D 1424 Standard. ● Then, the swatch is
conditioned on a specific temperature and humidity to standardize the testing environment and
eliminate the moisture related effects. ● Sometimes, a small notch or slit is made at the center of the
sample to initiate the tear at a specific point. ● The fabric sample is then securely clamped into the
grips of the tear strength tester, ensuring that it is held firmly and uniformly during the test. Fig 35:
Swatch cutting for test ● The test begins by applying a controlled force to the fabric sample, typically
in a direction perpendicular to the pre-cut notch or along a specified direction. The force is gradually
increased until the fabric tears completely. ● The testing machine records the maximum force
applied to the sample at the point of tear. This force value represents the tear strength of the fabric.
● Calculation- The tear strength is calculated by dividing the maximum force by the width of the
fabric sample. The result is expressed in units such as N, Lbf, Lbs, Kg. Buyer’s requires up to 3
specimens for testing. There were two machines for Tear Strength Testing, One for Manual where as
one was automatic. 9.2 Tensile Strength Testing Test Method: ISO 13934-2 (1 inch grab) / ASTM5034/
ISO 13936-1 (6mm)/ ISO 13635-2 9.2.1 Purpose To determine the maximum force required to
rupture (breaking strength) a woven fabric. 9.2.2 Equipment ● Tensile tester (CRE- Constant Rate of
Extension) ● Scale 9.2.3 Test Procedure ● Randomsamples are taken from the fabric or garment
being tested. ● Tensile testing machines, also known as Universal Testing Machines (UTM), are used
to conduct these tests. The machine consists of grips to hold the fabric and a system to apply force
gradually until the fabric breaks. ● The fabric sample is securely mounted in the grips of the testing
machine. This is usually done by clamping the fabric between two jaws of the machine. ● Before
starting the test, specific parameters need to be set, including the testing speed, the gauge length
(the initial distance between the grips), and the force units to be measured (usually pounds or
newtons). ● The testing machine applies a gradual force to the fabric sample, pulling it until it breaks.
The machine records the force applied at each point and the corresponding elongation or stretch in
the fabric. ● During the test, the machine continuously records data, including the load (force
applied) and the extension (elongation or stretch) of the fabric. ● Once the test is complete, the
collected data is analyzed to determine the tensile strength of the fabric. Tensile strength is usually
expressed in units of force per unit area, such as pounds per square inch (psi) or newtons per square
millimeter (N/mm²). The tensile strength of the fabric is compared to the required standards and
specifications for the garment. If the fabric meets or exceeds the minimum tensile strength
requirement, it is considered suitable for use in the garment production. 9.3 Seam Slippage Strength
Testing This testing process is done along with the Tensile Strength Testing following the same
procedure. 9.4 Yarn Size Testing Testing the yarn size ensures that it meets the specified standards
and requirements for a particular garment or fabric. The process is like: ● Random samples of yarn
are collected from the batch or lot that will be used for fabric production. These samples should be
representative of the entire lot. ● The collected yarn samples are conditioned in a controlled
environment to reach a standard temperature and humidity level. This step is necessary to eliminate
any variations caused by moisture content and to achieve consistent results during testing. ● Yarn
size testing is typically performed using a device called a "Yarn diameter measuring instrument." ●
The yarn samples are carefully mounted in the testing instrument. The micrometer applies pressure
to the yarn, causing it to flatten slightly, and then measures the diameter accurately. ● To ensure
accuracy and account for any variations in the yarn thickness, multiple measurements are taken for
each yarn sample and then the average of three measurements is considered. ● The yarn size can be
measured in various units, depending on the system used by the manufacturer or industry standards.
Common units include denier (grams per 9000 meters of yarn), tex (grams per 1000 meters of yarn),
and English cotton count (number of hanks per pound). ● The average yarn size value obtained from
the testing is compared to the specified standards or requirements set by the manufacturer or
industry standards. If the yarn size falls within the acceptable range, it is considered suitable for use
in fabric production. ● Properly sized yarn ensures uniformity and consistency in the fabric.
Garments made from accurately sized yarn are less likely to have defects and exhibit improved
strength, appearance, and performance. 9.5 Thread Count Testing This test is typically performed
using a device called a "Thread Count Analyzer" or "Fabric Thread Counter." This instrument helps in
counting the number of threads in a given area of the fabric.The fabric sample is placed under the
thread count analyzer. The device is designed with a grid or a magnifying lens that allows the
operator to count the number of threads both horizontally (warp) and vertically (weft) within a
specific area of the fabric. Thread count can be expressed in various units, such as threads per inch
(TPI) or threads per centimeter (TPC), depending on the system used by the manufacturer or industry
standards. 9.6 Fabric Weight (GSM) A fabric weight balance, also known as a GSM cutter or fabric
scale, is used to measure the weight of the fabric. The balance is calibrated before testing. ● The
fabric sample is cut into a specific size using a GSM cutter, and the weight is measured accurately
using the fabric weight balance. ● To ensure accuracy, multiple measurements are taken from
different areas of the fabric sample, and an average value is calculated. ● The fabric weight is
recorded in the appropriate units, such as GSM or OZ/YD², as per industry standards. ● The fabric
weight measurement is compared with specified standards or requirements to determine if it meets
the desired weight specification. 9.7 Button Pull Test This testing procedure also comes under
Performance Testing which is done to test the strength of button and other trims. ● The machine is
equipped with clamps or grips that securely hold the fabric with the attached button or snap in place
during the test. ● The m/c can apply a controlled and gradually increasing force to the button or
snap, simulating the stress it would experience during actual use. ● The test machine includes a force
gauge or load cell that measures the force applied to the button or snap during the test. ● The
machine allows for setting specific test parameters such as the rate of force application, the holding
time, and the number of cycles (if performing repetitive tests). ● The button pull test machine
typically displays the force measurements in real-time, and some models can record and store the
test data for later analysis. ● The test results can be compared to established standards or customer
specifications to determine whether the button or snap meets the required strength and durability
criteria. 9.8 CF to Crocking Test Color Fastness to Crocking Test, also known as Crocking Fastness Test
or simply Crocking Test, is a common fabric testing method used to assess the color transfer
resistance of textiles. There are two types of crocking tests, Dry and Wet where the only difference is
of Crocking Cloth to be dry and wet. Equipment/materials needed: ❖ Crockmeter, Grey Scale ❖
White/Light Colored Cloth ❖ Testing Solution- Double Distilled Water (Not necessary always) The test
specimen is placed on the base of the Crockmeter and a square of white test cloth is rubbed on the
colored specimen by means of the Crockmeter finger (dry test cloth for dry crocking; test cloth wet
out in distilled water for wet test. The sample is rubbed 10 times; after this the staining of the white
cloth is determined. Color transferred to the white test cloth is assessed by a comparison with the
Gray Scale for color staining as well as color changing a grade is assigned where they say that 3 rating
should be the minimum. To note: Staining (Tinting )∝ 1/Rating on Gray Scale 9.9 CF to Perspiration
Test This test method is used to determine the fastness of colored textiles to the effects of acid and
alkali perspiration. Equipment/materials needed: ❖ Perspiration tester, Oven ❖ Multifiber test fabric
(Acetate, Cotton, Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Wool) ❖ Greyscale, Color matching chamber ❖ Acidic and
Alkaline solution ❖ Glass or Acrylic plat, Weight The procedure of the testing is like: ● Artificial
Human Sweat is created for test, Acidic: 5.8 and Alkaline: 8 ● Fabric swatch is taken of 10by4 cm
according to the ISO 105 E04 ● Multifiber of same dimension as swatch is also taken ● Stitch both
the swatch and multifiber together ● 100mlsolution of artificial sweat into Petri dish ● Leavefor
30mins & Squeeze after taking it out ● Stitched sample is kept between the acrylic plates ● Pressure
applied 12.5KPa using weight ● Putthe whole material in Hot Air Oven for higher temperature ●
Keptinthe oven for 4hrs, Hang and dry at room temperature ● Rating with Gray Scale ● There’ll be
color staining on multifibre if there’s any. 9.10 CF to WashingTest Same procedure as earlier test, only
kept in washing for the process. 9.11 CF to Water Same process as CF to Perspiration Test just dip in
water instead of distilled water. 9.12 Dimensional Stability to Washing Test (Shrinkage) The test is
important to ensure that garments made from the fabric do not shrink or distort excessively during
normal laundering, as this can lead to poor fit and overall dissatisfaction with the product. ●
Cutfabric samples of a specified size (50 cm x 50 cm) from the test fabric. ● 35cmmarking for
recognizing shrinkage ● Washasperwash care ● Sometimes buyer requires the garment to be washed
three times for 45 mins. 9.13 Appearance after Washing Test In the Appearance after Washing test,
fabric or garment samples of specified sizes are prepared and may be pre-treated to remove any
sizing or contaminants. These samples are then subjected to washing and drying cycles in a washing
machine and tumble dryer, following specific temperature and cycle duration guidelines. After
completing the washing and drying cycles, the samples are visually inspected for changes in
appearance, such as color fading or change, pilling, wrinkling, shrinkage, and surface texture
alterations. The evaluation is often done using a standardized rating scale, typically ranging from 1 to
5, where 5 indicates excellent appearance retention and 1 indicates poor retention. The test results
are compared against industry standards or customer requirements to determine if the fabric or
garment meets acceptable appearance retention criteria, ensuring the production of high-quality
products with enhanced customer satisfaction. 9.14 Spirality This test is perfomed for checking the
torquing limit of fabric. ● Should not be more than 3% ● Washasperwash care ● Shrinkage both ‘+’
and ‘-’. ● Iftorquing would be there, fabric will be folded. 9.15 pH Test There are two standards
followed for this test: ❖ European = ISO 3071-2020 The test procedure is like: ● Cut2-3mm,Prepare
KCl + Double Distilled Water (0.1Molar) ● Putcut-out in conical flasks ● 100mlsolution put into
conical flask ● Close the flask with cover ● KeptinRotary Flask Shaker ● 30rpmfor 2hrs ● Fabric and
solution separated into 2 beakers ● Electrode + Solution + Temp. Sensor for checking the pH ●
Average of both the samples and then pH is decided ❖ American = AATCC81 ● Boiling using digital ●
250ml- Double Distilled Water ● 10gmfabric, 100degree C temp ● Boilfor 10mins, covered ●
Removedfromhot plate to room temperature ● Electrode + Solution + Temp Sensor for checking the
pH as before.