HISTORICAT SONARGAON

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m BANGLADESH FOLK ART & CRAFTS FOUNDATION

MINISTRY OF CULTURAL AFFAIRS

HISTORICAL SONARGAON
AKM MUZZAMMIL HAQUE
EDITOR : RABINDRA GOPE

TRANSLATED BY
AUDITY FALGUNI

Bangladesh Folk Aft & Crafts Foundation irgrirFt6 +

Ministry of Cultural Affairs
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HISTORICAL SONARGAON t'
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AKM MUZZAMMIL HAQUE t:,
,I,

EDITOR
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RABINDRA GOPE, I

Published by
Rabindra Gope I

Director L.

Bangladesh FolkArt & Crafts Foundation

Sonargaon, Narayanganj
Phone : 067 2356331, 061 2356309
Fax:0672356230
E-mail : director.s.museum@ gmail.com
Website : www.fms.gov.bd

Cover design
AKMAzad Sarker
Photographer
Md. Shafiqur Rahman
AKM Masud
Publication
lu,ly 2017
Printed by
G. G. Offset Press
3llA Syed Awlad Hossain Lane
Nayabazar Dhaka 1100
Phone : 47 ll7 515, 011 11602442

Price : Tk. 1000.00

us$.20.00
ISBN : 918-984-33-8499-7
 Dedicated to

try"

Father of the Nation Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman

and Shilpacharya Zaintrl Abedin.

Bangladesh goverrrment,by a gazette notification on March 12

of 1975, established Bangladesh Folk Art & Crafts Foundation'
It was made possible through wise counseling and financial
sLrpport of Father of the Nation Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur
I{ahman, the greatest Bengali of all ages and earnest efforts of
S h i I pachary a Zaintil Abedin.
 Awami League regime in 1996. Again it was during the period of
Awami League rule that Bangladesh Folk Arls & Crafts Act was
approved in our noble Jatiya Sangsad (National Parliament) in
1998 and was published in May 6 of 1998. Functioning of the
liolk Art & Crafts village development programme too
con'rrlcnced at Sonargaon in 2001.
Awami League government, after it ascended the power
rlgairr in 2009, implemented the project entitled Extension of the
lthv,sit'ol infra-structure and security system of Bangladesh Folk
Art & Crafis Foundation. Under the auspices of this project, a
nunrber of works have been completed including construction of
thc bor-rndary wall of the Foundation, upward expansion of
"Banachayya" offlcer's quarter, building of Chavyaneer staff
Humble offerings cluartcr, constructing car parking field, developing crafts village
Sonargaon is a proud, ancient human habitat of Bangladesh belt, building the main gate, constructing the ticket counter cum
where our folk afts and fblk tradition had flourished. Bangladesh guard house, upward expansion of museum and administrative
Folk Art & Crafts Foundation was built at costs of huge labour, burlding, interior lightening, constructing public toilets,
sweat and creative efforts of the toiling, common masses of this purchasing the paddle boat made of fiber glass, VDO still camera
land to make our national cultural identity luminous forever. and emergency generators, installing 48 stalls, making the
Collection, preservation, cxhibition and revival of the examples "Sonar Tori (Golden Fleet)" adhereing to the Mayuur Pankhi
of folk arls and crafts to kccp our culturaltradition flowing is the (Peacock Boat) design, RCC bridge building, inner road
pivotal airn of the Foundation. Bangladesh government, by a construction and collection of fuiliture and other afticles cum
gazette notification on March 12 of 1975, established Bangladesh examples for the museum.
Folk Art & Crafts lroundation. It was made possible through wise Besides, sculptor Shyamal Chowdhury has erected a high
counseling and financial support of Father of the Nation sculpture of Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman in the flower
Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, the greatest Bengali of garden in front of the administrative building of the Foundation.
all ages and earncst cffofts of Shilpacharya Zainul Abedin, the The sculpture is made of bell metal and depicts the Father of the
painter of this soil and its people. Nation in his epic moment of delivering the historical address of
Honourable Prime Minister Sheikh Hasinar, daughtcr of 7th March 197 1 . This is really a matter of pride for the people of
Father of the Nation lSangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, has Sonargaon and the Bengali nation in general. Thus Foundation
lirundecl the Shilpacharya Folk Ar1 & Crafls Muscunr during the will play a pioneering role in narrating the ballad of our national
pride to the fbreigner tourists by representing this different TV channels including Bangladesh Television. Viewers
comnlemorative sculpture of Bangabandhu Sheikh Muf ibur are demanding to organize it on each week.
Rahman. Every ycar rrorc than one million tourists from home and
A
sculpture of Shahid (martyr) Sheikh Russel, the youngest abroad con.rc to visit Sonargaon, this ancient capital city of
son of Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, has been installed Bengal. Prcr.jccts havc bccrr undeftaken to enhance the beauty and
at the Foundation premises. Meantime, a bust sculpture of other opportunities of the Foundation in near future. Qr"rality of
Shilpacharya Zainul Abedin has been erected in the Foundation. research ancl publictrtions of the Foundation has been intprovccl.
The present government has also introduced pension scheme for Mr. AKM Muzzammil Haque, guide lecturer of the Founclation,
the officers and employees of Bangladesh Folk Arts & Crafts has missed to mention sornc impoftant portion of history in thc
Foundation after 3B years since the establishment of the bool< entitled "Historical Sonargaon." So we had to rept'inl il.
Foundation. Every year the Foundation organizes month long fbll< arts &
Apart from it, a historical accord for carrying out the crafts fair and folk festival through huge endeavors and in a
restoration work at Baro Sarder Bari was signed between the vibrant and colorful way. These sorts of festivals will help to
Ministry of Culture, GoB and Young Wan Corporation of South resist all forms of communalism, narrow-r.nindedncss,
Korea. Such sort of agreement has been signed for the first tirne superstitions and religious extremism and help r,rs in sustain the
in history of this country. It is my personalbelief that Mr. Kihak cultural tradition of thc Bengali nationhood and tlrus facilitate us
Sung, Chairperson of Yang Wan Corporation, the Korea-based in moving a step forward to build the Golden Bengal, the dream
Multi National Corporation (MNC) and CEO of Korea EPZ, wlll of the Fathcr of lhc Nation.
play unique role in restoring the regal tone of the old royal One thing must bc mentioned with gratitude. Honourable
palace. The restoration work is going on full swing. The tourists Cullural Minister Asaduzzaman Noor MP had harnessed us to
will be able to watch the pomp and grandeur of the ancient make such a history based publication for a long periocl. Wc arc
capital city again if the irnplementation work is properly carried trying to abide by his instmction. Honourable Secretary ol- 1hc
out. Ministry of Cultural Affairs Aktari Mamtaz, whenever hail sccrr
Special arrangements for organizing classes of drawing, us, recofllmended us to increase the amount of research worh. It
music, recitation and dance amongst the children are made on owes to her inspiration that we have already held a month long
two days per month. This arrangement for children has been exhibition on embroidered quilt and have published a notcwoltlry
undertaken for last six years by the Foundation to rekindle the book of memoir. We have been able to publish this history hlsctl
Bengali culture. Child artists, singer and dancers from different book. Mohammad Rabiul Islarn, Deputy Director and Mr'. Al(M
schools and kindergarlens of Sonargaon are taking part on such Azad Sarker, display officer of this institution havc ollcrcrl rnc
occasions. Meantime, this educational occasion for the children, overall support.
organized by the Foundation, has created huge responses in If considered in terms of importance, Bangladesh Folk Art &
Crafls Foundation can be called as a miniscule version of
Bangladesh itself. Here one can witness the unique reflection of
the beautiful Bengal. This Foundation is representing the
hereditary civilization and culture of common people over the
spectrum of the millennia. Month long folk art & crafts fair and
the folk festival of the Foundation organized in the continuation
of the tradition have been turned into a fair of harmony.
Foundation organizes this month long folk art & crafts fair and
the folk festival arnidst funs and f'estivities to showcase the folk
tradition and present its identity to the new generation. The gala
event of this month long fblk art & crafts fair host a number of
commodities to encouragc the folk ar1 & crafts and the aftisans
from different rcmotc corncrs of Bangladesh get the golden
opportunities to produce and market their goods in the fair.
Obviously it will expand the market of folk crafts. Traditional
classical beauty of rural Bengal is represented in the month long
arrangement of the Foundation. Thor-rsands of tourists come to
visit this massive gala cvcnt everyday. It shoLrld be noted that
around sixty thousands of visitors enjoy the Bengali New Year
celebration held by the Foundation. Each year a three days'long
rural crafts fair is organizccl to celebrate the Bengali New Year.
Baul singers enthrall the audience with their spiritual songs in
each aftemoon during this time. Bangladesh Folk Arts & Crafts
Foundation is the cherished institution of the tradition of
Sonargaon, the emblem of the 'Golden Bengal'as envisioned by
Bangabandhu.

Rabindra Gope
Director
Bangladesh FolkArt & Crafts Foundation,
Sonargaon" Narayanganj
Ministry of Cultural Affairs
 My words with promises, creative people or inquisitive and rebel people are
my inspiration behind publishing the book Historical Sonargactn
Sonargaon is an ancient land of glory in the history of
Bangladesh. This land has played a pioneering role in the
which is a tour guide facilitator.
advancement of nation's history in terms of afts and culture. lt I do humbly request all visitors and tourists to keep intact the
had been the capital city of the ancient Bengal during the unique architectural design and scenic beauty of different places
dynasties of the Shurs, Palas and Devas during the l3tl'to 14th of Sonargaon. Some old infomation regarding the areas beyond
centuries. Sonargaon's boundary have been inserled in the book against the
historical backdrop of this vicinity.
The paramount significance of Sonargaon, howeveq declined
since the shifting of the capital city of Bengal from Sonargaon to We have, however, thousand years' old history and cultural
Jahangir Nagar alias Dhaka in 1608. Basically Sonargaon is an tradition to be showcased to travel loving and tradition admiring
important upazilla of Narayanganj district, known as the people of the outer world. That endeavor to represent our
"Dundee of the East." Sonargaon thana was evolved fiom national pride has been undertaken in the book Historical
Baidyer Bazar thana to Sonargaon thana on March 13 of 1983 Sonargaon.
and it was upgraded to Sonargaon upazilla from thana in 1984. Each year around one million tourists from home and abroad
Total area of Sonargaon measures about 171.05 square kilometer. come to visit Sonargaon. While viewing the architectural designs
It is 2l kilometers away from Narayanganj sadar district. One of Sonargaon, many a number of tourists face inconvenienccs
cannot feel oneself fulfillecl and content as a Bengali until s/he due to lack of familiarity with the architectural inheritance of
witnesses the scenic beauty and cultural heritage of Sonargaon. Sonargaon. Some firil to visit all the heritage spots owing to lack
Various historical references annexed in this book are mere of proper idea and knowledge about the place. Taking into
attempts to keep the continuity of Sonargaon. Sonargaon is a consideration all the above factors, I continued on my efforts to
land surrounded by rivers and canals, decorated in flora and translate my dreams into realities.
fauna and proud with its possession of history and tradition, arts I will never claim that everything in my book Hisloric'al
and culture. Royal elites have come here over the epochs and Sonargercn is accurate and appropriate. There may be some errors
great travelers have visited this place. Once upon a time the or mistakes while writing this travel guide on the basis of
eminent feudal lords used to live here. Many a number of Sufi historical surveys. lf any kind critic offers me required counsels
saints, yogis and sages have roved in Sonargaon. A number of to corect the gaps, I will be grateful. I hope the book entitled
great works by them carried out here are still scattered over the Historical Sonargcrctn will be accepted by ordinary viewers and
entire habitat. Sonargaon is the collective abode of people may also help as a travel guide to travel thirsty visitors fron-r
belonging to different communities and professional groups. The home and abroad.
cultural, educational and working arenas of this region promise
the unfolding of a new life which is integrated in the life cycle of
AKM Muzzammil Haque
Bangladesh and vibranl as well. So Sonargaon is a peflinent Guide Lecturer
habitat of Bangladesh in all aspects. Bangladesh Folk Art & Crafts Foundation
Ministry of Cultural Affairs
Common people coming to Sonargaon for a visit, people
 I

House of the Krori (Krori Bari) 30

Main building of the Poddar Bari 31
Baluadighirpar Jam e Mosque (Masjid) 32
Sonargaon G.R.Institution 33
The broken roofed mosque of Hossain Shah 33
CONTENTS Historical Goaldi mosque 34
Decoration style of the mosque wall 34
Location of Sonargaon in the atlasl2 Shah Abdul Hamid mosque/54
Excise collection building, Sonargaon l4 Bangladesh FolkArl & Crafts Foundation 36
The architectural remnants of Sonargaon 16 A foreigner tourist visiting the sculpture of Father of the Nationa
Panam city 18 Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman 37
Unique architectural style of the mansion built in Panam city FolkArt & Crafts museum 39
during the Mughal and British period 19 Shilpachary a Zain:ul Folk Ar1 and Craft s museum 39
The view of the road built within the Panam city 20 Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina inaugurated the new museum
Architectural designs of the Mughal and British period 21 entitled "ShilpacharyaZairul Folk Art & Crafts Museum" on
i
Architectural design of the mansions built in the British October 19 of 1996 40
period 23 Prin:re Minister Sheikh Hasina visiting the Shilpacharya Zaintl
Architectural design of the mansions built during the Mughal and Folk Arts & Crafts Museum 40
Britesh period24 Artisan couple Birendra Sutradhar and Dipali Rani Sutradhar
The buildings of the Panam city in a row 35 working in the Folk Ar1 and Crafts Village 41
Fishing in the lake 4l
j
Indigo factory 26
The monastery ofAminpur 27 Journey by boat in the lake 42
Old Rest House 27 Sales'stall of Karupalli 42
Dance Hall 28 Entefiainment spot 43
Pegasus canal (Pankhiraj Khal) 28 Before the renovation works of the Choto Sarderbari 43
Durbar Hall28 After the renovation works of the Choto Sarderbari 43
Interior side of the rest house 28 Bangladesh in embroidered quilt (nakshi kantha) 44
Decorated mansion and Kashinath Bhawan 29 Sculpture of Father of the Nation Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur
The bunker of the Panam crty 29 Rahman 45
Ancient mansion of the Panam city 29 Sculpture of Shilpacharya Zainul 46
Panam bridge 30 Sculpture of Sheikh Russel 46
Little painter in celebration of the International Mother Niche built during the Mughal regime 53
Language Day 47 Architectural design of the Baro Sarder Bari 54
Ornamented wooden door 47 About Isa Khan Masnad-E-Ala (the holder of the throne) 58
FolkArts & Crafts library 48 Part of Junglebari of Isa Khan 59
Sonar Tori stage (mrinch) 48 Mosque founded by Isa Khan 59
Principal gate of the Foundation 48 Burial ground/cemetery of Isa Khan 59
Merry Go Round (Nagordola) 48 Cemetery of Isa Khan in the Bakterpur village of Kaliganj
Minister of Culture Asadrzzaman Noor MP visiting lhe Zainril upazilla, Gazipur 59
FolkArt and Crafts Museum. The minister is being Cannon of Isa Khan 60
accompanied by painter Hashem Khan and Director of the Sonargaon Epitaph of Nasrat Shah 61
Museum Poet Rabindra Gope 49 Engravings on the cannons of Isa Khan 61
Part of the visitors in the museum gallery 49 Names of Mahendra Dev and King Danujmardan Dev engravecl
Pot work of Gazi 50 upon the coins 61
Horse prepared of bell metal 50 Historical Khasnagar dighi (large pond) 62
Incense stick holder of silver 5l Weaving style of muslin 62
Elephant of bell metal 51 A woman in Dhaka clad in fine Bengali Muslim 63
Aft works of bell metal 51 Director of the Folk Ar-t and Crafts Museum poet Rabindra Gope
Exhibition of folk life as special arangement of the folk life 51 talking to the jamadani aftisans at work in the Khidirpur
A folk artist from an ethnic minority group 49 village, Sonargaon 67
Exhibition of rural life as a special arrangement of folk A handloom artist devoted in Jamdani weaving 67
festival49 Grand Trunk Road 68
Luxmi Rani Sinha, an artisan of Manipuri indigenous textile on Memoirs of Victory 69
her komor tant (weaving machine) 49 Pithawalir Pool 69
Foreigner tourists 50 Bari Majlish mosque 70
Foundation stone laying of the restoration work of Baro Sarder Mograpara 70
Bari 50 Under-ground prayer room 72
Historical Baro Sarder Bari 52 Naubat KhanaT2
Historical Baro Sarderbari before restoration 52 Durgahbari complex 73
Historical Baro Sarderbari after restoration 53 Mosque of Sultan Jalaluddin Fateh Shah 73
Recess of Baro Sarderbari constructed during the Mughal Cemetery of Sheik Sharf-UddinAbu Tawamah (RA) 7a
period 53 Darogolla mosque 75
Broken coravean serai 75
Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah's tomb 76
Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah cemetery 76
Tomb of Kazi Sirajuddin 77
Graves of panch pirs (sufi saints) 76
Mausolem of Kadam Rasul 79
Sonakanda fort79
Gate of Sonakanda fort 19
Cemetery tomb of Bibi Mariam B0
Hajiganj fort 81
Baba Saleh mosque and grave B1

Holy bathing of the Hindu devotees in Langalband 82

Dewanbagh mosque 83
Mahjampur Shahi.Iame mosque old view 84
Dome of the Mahjampur mosque 84
Floral design on mosque wall 84
Decorated stoned pillar in the Mihrab (ornamental indentation in
the wall of a mosque indicating the position of 'quibla') of
mosque. 85
Ashram of Sri Sri Lokenath Brahmmachari 85
Baradi monastery 86
Ancestral home of renowned Indian politician Jyoti Basu 86
Ma Huan the acclaimed traveler from China 89
The travel map of Ma Huan 89
English traveler Ralph Fitch 90
World travel atlas by Ibn Battuta 91
World reputed traveler Ibn Battuta 92
Foreign tourist Tavarnear 93
Location map of Sonargaon? 95
LOCATION OF' SONARGAON IN THE ATLAS
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eastern division of Bengal bq/bre Dhaka was built. But it is

I

Brief Introduction on Sonargaon cty,indled to a village."

Subarnagram is the name of our adorable memoirs for the capital

According to the legends prevailing in the area that there was
shower of gold pieces from heaven during the reign of King
,,!
city of ancient Bengal. Wide attraction of its natural beauty,
Jayadhwaj and since then this area has been known as
unique architectural design and relics of ancient structures in
Subamagram.
Sonargaon overwhelm its visitors.
Tofail Ahmed, in his book entitled "Our ancient industry"
If someone goes beyond the banks of Shitlakhya and sees the has cited reference from James Taylor and said, "Huge amount of
vast greenery and woods at both sides of the Dhaka-Chittagong gold used to be imported in this region for spread of trade and
highways, he or she will find the historical Sonargaon shrouded commerce. Probably it may be the cause of this area's naming to
in shadows of tall trees amidst the chirping of the birds. We can be Sonargaon ot Subarnagram." He furlher observed, "Earlier
really take our pride in the history and tradition of Sonargaon. We lots of gold used to come in the eastern parls of Bengal from
are yet to restore the full continuity of Sonargaon's history. Today Arakan and Pegu. Apart from preserving the foods for the
not too many souvenirs of past can be traced back in Sonargaon. mariners and the ballast to keep the ship stable, the water vessel
Memoirs of a golden episode of our past history howevel are of Caesar Frederick while coming to Chittagong was all filled up
intertwined with Sonargaon. with gold and silver. Gold was the major import item in
Sonargaon." This is why the village was named Sonargaon.
Sonargaon : Origin of its naming Reputed historian Nihar Ranjan opines, "There were gold
Experts opine differently about the origin of the very name mines in and around the ancient lower delta of Bengal and its
"Sonargaon." Researchers deem that the ancient name of adjacent areas and often gold rash used to be found in the stream
' Sonargaon' had been "Suvamabithi" or "Suvarnagram." Today's of Buriganga and other adjoining rivers of Subarnagram as well.
name 'sonargaon' of this ancient, human habitat may have People used to get gold from those gold rashes. May be this is
originated from the word "Subamabithi" or "Suvarnagram." why this locality was named Sttbctrnagram."
According to Dr. SM Hassan, 'Sonargaon or more accurately Again there is also the legend that Sonarguon derives its
known from ancient times, "Suvarnagram" literally means name from the name Sonabibi, wife of Isa Khan the chieftain of
'Golden Village.' In common parlance it is also called "Gold Baro Bhuyian (twelve landlords) in Bengal.
))
Town" which proves that the terminology "Suvarnagram" must Forewords : Sonargaon is a glorious ancient habitat in the
have indicated its ancient pre-Muslim antiquity. Cunningham is history of Bangladesh. Sonargaon has played pioneering role in
of opinion that although there are only a few fragments of Hindu the respective arenas of history arls and culture of our nation. It
work now left to attest the fact, it must have been the capital of was the capital city of the Muslim Sultans during the middle
Hindu principality anterior to the invasion of Muhammade Bin ages. Today Sonargaon is an important upazilla of the
Makhtiyar Khalje." [n the words of Rennel, Sonargaon or Narayanganj district, known as "Dandy of the East."
Sunnergaum was a large city, and the provincial capital oJ'the I SONARGeON, Dr. S.M.Hasan, Bangladesh Folk Art & Crafts Foundation, 1982.

13
 According to the legends, earlier the area Baidyer Bazar was 'Vaidya er Bazaar thana became klown to be Sonargaon
known as Pakistanbazaar. It was one of the most reputed bazaars thana from March 13 of 1983 and later it was upgraded into
or market places where buying and selling of varieties of Sonargaon Upazllla from 1984 onwards. Total area of the thana
commodities used to take place. People from different remote measures about 171.05 square kilometers and it is located at 21
corners of the area used to come here for commerical kilometers away from Narayanganj sadar district.2 It was spread
transaction. Snake charmers, Ojhas and vaidyas (indigenous over 24 square kilometers during the Mughal regime. Now the
healers of snake bite or snake venoms) too used to come here area is known as upazilla.
and gradually they did settle down. These ojhas and vaidyas Generally we have to rely more on the mythical narratives or
became successful to exert their influences in the locality by legends to know the history of Sonargaon. It is hard to assess the
using their magical powers. Thus people began calling the area location of this medieval age city. The area was developed one as
Pakistanbazaar as Vaidya er Bazaar. Later a thana was built up because it was surrounded by a number of rivers including the
by naming it as Voidya er Bazaar for the sake of administrative mighty Meghna at the east, Shitlakhya at the south-west,
ease. Vaidya er Bazaar, however, later got submerged into river Dhaleshwari at the south and Brahmaputra at the north.
by course of erosion. This is why the shifting of Vaidya er Sonargaon's land was really ferlile for it's location at the river
Bazctew thana became a necessitv. basin areas. Huge amount of crops used to be grown here for
natural irrigation advantage. lnhabitants of this area were
wealthy and prosperous. Naturally the kings and emperors have
established this prosperous area as their capital city in
Sonargaon.
There is yet any series of historical information to get
regarding the exact starl period of civilization in Sonargaon, it is
hard to tell that if it did colrrilrence in pre-Muslim period or
Muslim period. Sonargaon was first mentioned in history during
the reign of Sultan Balban, i.e., 1265-1287 A.D.- near about 700
years ago. But the habitat of Sonargaon actually is even older
than 700 years. 'According to the mythical chronicles,
Sonargaon can be marked as a habitat which is more than 3,000
years old. Its earlier name had been Subarnagram. Buying and
selling of muslin had been on vogue in Subarrragram from the
very ancient age. There is mention of refined cloths in the
Arthashastra of Kautilya. This refined cloth is bound to be
muslin. Because James Taylor has mentioned that nowhere in the
Excise collection building, Sonargaon
2
Sonargaon Upazilla Unnayan (Development) Profile, December 2004.

14
 world cotton is grown as smooth as in the Dhaka region his name from Sonargaon or Subarnagram. Since then the area
(inclLrding Narayanganj and Sonargaon). Thus, if traced back to has been known as Sonargaon. Subarnagram was actually a
thc tcxts of Kautilya, Sonargaon can be termed as an ancient commercial centre besides the river bank.
locality of near about 2500 years tracing back."3 This book by ,Approximately
by l28l A.D., Sultan Ghiyas ud din Balban
rnine is basically an attempt to keep continuity of the ancient came to Sonargaon to suppress the insurgencies posed by Tughril
episodes of Sonargaon by tracing back to different scattered Khan. Later the then King Danujmardan Dev in throne consented
references. to come to an agreement with the Delhi Sultans of Sonargaon.
Historian Swaprup Chandra Roy opines, "Subarnagram is an Later Sonargaon gained the prestige of becoming the capital city
ancient village. lt has enjoyed the status of the capital city by the of the Muslim rulers for next several centuries."6
kings of the Shr.rra, Pala, Deva and other dynasties since the 'The period during the years 1338-1538 are called the
Buddhist age. Subarnagram or Sonargaon was marked as special Independent Sultani regime of Bengal. This period is very much
aBasically
area of the ancient Bengal." we coulcl not reach to any important in the history of Bengal. Fakhruddin Mobarak Shah
unanimous decision rcgarding the exact time-frame of human declared Sonargaon, the eastem parl ofBengal as "independent"
civilization's start in Sonargaon as there are not enough links in 1338 zrnd then it achieved the status of the capital city of East
except scattered references on its antiquity. Ramesh Chandra Bengal for the frrst time. Later Ilyas Shahi and Hr-rssain Shahi
Majumder has rightly opined in his li'slorv oJ'Bengal, "It has, Sultans like Shamsuddin Ilyas Shah (1342-1357),Ikhtiar al Din
however, to be admittcd that there is no dated reference to Ghazi Shah (1349-1353), Sikandar Shah (1357-1391), Ghiyath
Sonargaon before the thirtcenth century AD."5 Though there is no
al-Din Azam Shah (1392-1410), Saif al Din-Hamja Shah (1410-
cxact date and year mentioned in the historical references about
1411), Ala al-din Hussain Shah (1493-1519) and others used to
Sonargaon, we get the vcry name from the annals of ancient
operate the administrative activities fiom Sonargaon, the capital
I Banga.
li
city of Bengal. Sonargaon ascended in the highest peak of
ir
I
Historian V.A. Smith has cited in his book entitled The Eurly reputation within the political circles of the then Bengal dr,rring
History o.l- India, "Savarnabhurni Golden coast of the Chinese,"
i the reign of Masnad-e-Ala Isa Khan, the chieftain of the 12
Scoff connects the name with the Gangetic poft of Sonargaon."
ir landlords in Bengal. It is notecl that Isa Khan's major arrny
!i Although relics of pre-lslamic archaeological records can no
headquarter was located in the Panam city of Sonargaon. Isa
rl longer be found in Sonargaon, once upon a time it was a reputed
Khan fbr-rght battle with the Mughal soldiers at around 1575
centre of arts ancl culture. Sharnsuddin Firoz Shah, the
A.D."7
representative of thc Sr-rltan of Delhi, proclaimed lndependence at
Shaykh Shara/uddin Abu Tawamma, renowned Muslim
the first phase olthe l41l'century ancl disbr-rrsed coins engraving
Faqih (master in Fiqh or Muslirn Jurisprudence), established the
Sonargaon er Itihas. t.Jtsl O Upadan (History, Sources and Elements of
Sonargaon), Proltssor Md.l{czaul Karim, edited by Dr. Saikat Asgar, July I 993.
Islamic university named "Jameya" in the Sonagaaon city in
os*uru.rrog.u- ultihu,
er Itihas (llistory of Swavarnagram) by Swarupchandra Roy, . Sonargaon (Sonargaon in History), Bangladesh Folk Art & Crafts
I(olkata. 189 I
. Fourrdalion, lQ79
s oM.A.Ruhi,,
It.Cl.Majumder: History ol'Bcngal, vol.I, Dacca 1970. Social ancl Cultural History of Bengal, vol. II, Dacca 1967

15
l2B2 A.D. as being ordered by Balban the Sultan of Delhi. This "Ma Huan (1406), traveler of ancicnt Clhina, witnessed
Jameya was well acclaimed all over the world at that period. Sonargaon as a large, commercial city. fta Ilicn (1415) tcrmed
Muslim students from difl-erent countries used to come here to Sonargaon as a cofllmercial center witlr nunrcrl)us ponrls. well
study Fiqh or Hadith. Yahya Maneri from Maner province of built roads and markets where all sorts o1- conrrnotlitics rrscd to
Bihar came here and studied. Returning back home after be stored and sold."
completion of his studies, he established a reputed Madrasa.
"Traveler Verthema has termed Sontrt'.grrott pot'l lrs
It was Abu Tawama who made Sonargaon the center of prosperous. He confessed that not in any othcr poll ol'tlre rvorltl
education and culture. He died in 1300 A.D. and his grave was
he has seen too many rich merchants together. Kari (conclr slrt'll)
marked in Sonargaon. Later other reputed teachers of this Jameya
was a mode of exchange aparl from gold and silver coitrs. l..rrri
(Islamic University) govemed this institution by dint of their own
was generally the mode of exchange for common pcoplc."
merits. Alaul Haq from Pandua used to teach as professor at this
university. Nur Qutb e Alam, son of Sultan Ghiyasuddin and English merchant and tourist Ralph Fitch opinetl irr lfi5(r. "A
Khan al Azam, son of Alaul used to study here. A11 of them were huge amount of textile cloths (including the worltl r-cprrlt'tl
renowned Sufi and scholars ofthat epoch. muslin) and rice used to get exported to lndia, ('cylorr. l'cgrr.
The great historical Grand Trunk Road, established by Sher Malacca, Sumatra and other countries of the worltl. 'l'lrcrc r,virs ir
Shah the ruler of Delhi in l6tl'century, was built via Sonargaon time when there was cor-r.rr-nercial transaction bctwr:crr Sonlrrglrorr
which began from Sindh and ended in Sonargaon. and the isles of Java via naval route."
Sonargaon flourished not only in terms of religion, culture,
arts, science and knowledge. Ancient graves, mosques and
architectural examples prove the prosperity of Sonargaon in
ancient times. Sonargaon became able to draw attention of the
renowned foreign travelers and businessmen in the political and
economical arena of society in the medieval period. Sonargaon
was a developed city in all terms in the medieval age.
'Ibn Batuta (1345-1346) described Sonargaon as an
important port city. He mentioned about the direct commercial
relationship of Sonargaon with China, Indonesia and Malay
islands.' It can be further known from the description of Ibn
Batuta that 'Lots of paddy, sugarcane and mustard used to grow
in Sonargaon. Huge amount of paddy used to be exported via
Sonargaon port to Sri Lanka, South India and the middle-East.
Lots of sugarcane used to grow here. Molasses and sugar used to
T he urchitect uru I remnan ts of St ttrt r t'gr t t, t t
get prepared fiom these sugarcanes."

l6
 'Musa Khan, son of Isa Khan, held the title of Masnad e Ala Chittagong of Bangladesh to the dock factories and ships of
and became the next feudal lord of the zemindari in Sonargaon. Alexandria. Hali Shahar of Patenga, Chittagong had a number of
Hc, .just like his valiant father, inspired other eleven feudal lords ship building factories under the authority of native arlisans. A11
10 wage war against the Mughals. He used to govern the country these factories used to remain filled up with sound of the
independently. Sonargaon, at that period, became a prosperous hammers. The saudagars (sailors) of this country were owners of
trade and commerce centre and a bustling city." Sonargaon was hundreds of ships at that period. According to historian
the capital city of Bengal during the successive reigns of Isa W.W.Hunter : "Those ship building factories retained their
Khan and Musa Khan. After this area was captured by the influence till 1875 A.D." sHowever, later the importance of
Mughals, it became one of the muslin selling centers in Bengal. Sonargaon declined since shifting of the capital city from
'Once upon a timc Sonargaon became famous in the whole Sonargaon to Jahangir Nagar/Dhaka during 1608 A.D. by
world for its trade ancl cornllerce. Sonargaon, particularly for its Subedar Islam Khan in the Mughal regime. One of the major
unique muslin ancl C'hittagong, for its ship building industry, causes behind this shifting was the change of the river course.
soon became farnous lll ovcr the world out of the entire Bengal. Later, in course of time, Subarnagram was transformed into an
Muslin woven in Sonargaon and its adjoining areas used to get area covered by jungles at the first phase of the l8th century. At
exported to differont cuuntries in Europe and Africa. This the outskirls of Subarnqgram, gradually the Panam city was
country of ours was rcputccl fbr trade and commerce from time established over a small portion of the ancient habitat and
irrrrncmorial. The Arabs. bcing allured by our reputation in terms covered by dense jungles. One can witness the architectural
ol'llirtlc ancl conrmcrcc, huvc built commercial relationship with examples of colonial civilization. Decaying grandeur of some
us sirrcc rlislanl pust untl urrived in this green delta. Sonargaon buildings forsaken by the deparled Hindu gentry still marvels us.
gol lrs lrrrrclr rc;trrlution us to compete in trade and commerce Once the world reputed muslin used to be produced besides the
wi(lr (lrc l'rurrorrs'lirrrrralipti ancl Saptagram of West Bengal, India. Khas Nagar pond of Sonargaon. It is in continuity of that
ltcprrtlliorr ol'tlris rcgiolr litr trade and commerce did spread up tradition that jamdani is still produced in Sonargaon. Today's
to clisturrl lltrr.opc 'l'lrc l)ortuguese came to our land in the Panam city was once the most impoftant commercial centre of
sixteenth ccrrlury. 'l'lrtry tcrmed Saptagram as Porto Piqueno or Sonargaon. Since then the Panam city had been known as one of
small port ancl ('hilllgong as Porto Grando or large porl. It the most notable and recommendable area of Sonargaon. It was
should be notccl lhat ,\ulttagram port of West Bengal too was a
like a well preserved fort surrounded by bunkers.
reputed one as a o()nlrercial port. Saptagram used to get
Sonargaon, however, had undergone sea ofchanges in course
connected with thc outcr world via the rivers Bhagirathi and
of time. Its old looks are gone. There are many relics of ancient
Swarswati facing thc Bay of Bengal. Our land too was famous
and medieval ages in the historical Sonargaon.
lirr business on naval route. Ships voyaging on the seas too were
SByabsai
rrsctl lo be built in our country. Great Chinese traveler Ma Huan Uddug (Enteryrises in Business), Nabam-Dasham Shreni (Ciass Ix-x),
Jatiya Shikhkhakrom O Pathyapustak Qrlational Education and Textbook) Board,
rrrt'rrliorrccl that the Roman emperor preferred building ships from Dhaka 20 I 2

11
Panam City was a chinese Buddhist scholaq traveller, and translator who
described the interaction between china and India including
Architectural evidences of the Sultani, Mughal, British and
Bengal in the early Tang dynasty) has mentioned about the
Pakistani period can be witnessed in the Panam city' Some
dilapidated mansions belonging to the Hindu merchants of the
Buddhist monasteries besides Pundravardhana and
Swavamagram. Moreover, it is known that the Pandavas had
pre-parlition period still marvels the viewers. once the world
regular commuting to the Langalbandh area in the KalikapLffana
reputed muslin used to be woven besides the Khasnagar dighi in
and the Panchamighata of Mahabharat. According to the tales of
Sonargaon. Now refined quality of jamdani is woven in
the IIindu mythology, "swavarnagram is situated at both side of
Sonargaon in continuation of the muslin tradition' Today's
panam city is known as a noteworthy and prosperous region from the river Brahmaputra. Here was the abode of the Kirat and the
Nishadas and those communities were endowed with gold' We
ancient time in sonargaon. It was like a well preserved forl
surrounded by moat.
find its reference in the slokas (chants) of Raghunandan
Bhattachary a. Lohity apurbate B anga/B ange Swarna P ro mo dayo'
This Panam city is a wealthy and prosperous habitat of
Historian Swarup chandra Roy, in addition, has mentioned that
ancient Sonargaon. There are differences in opinions among the
"gold endowed" land is the Subarnagram, Swarnagram or
historians about antiquity of this region. It can, however, be
Sonargaon besides Dhaka.
assumed from the location of Panam city, abodes, cemented pond
It did not become possible to recover the credible history of
slopes and ponds, large ponds, mansions, mosllues, temples,
the surroundings that panam, the city of discussion. Neither we became able to record
-ort, and the geographical location and the history of the Panam city in a book due to lack of graphic
the history of this area in discussion is several thousand years
old. infonlation. However, Panam city is the last souvenir of our
ancient capital which is unparallel in beauty' Thc dcgcnerating
The historical Sonargaon region was famous for agricultural
mansions remind us of old history of Panam' Flourishing of
products owing to the river washed natural and fertile alluvial
soil. Besides, the significance of this region was immense due to
urbanization and civilization centering the Panam city hacl an l

its internal and extemal commerce. Several places of the East efficient and refined social infra-structure. An agro-based, strclng
Bengal were famous for the refined cloth in Kautilya's economic system was its core driving force' Panam was a salc
Arthashastra. According to historian Dr. Nihar Ranjan Roy, centre for the goods produced by the aftisans' A prosperous traclc
"swavarnagram was reputed as Biioyskandhobhar during the centre grew besides it.
Gupta, Pala and Sen dynasties. It was during the reign of the The buildings and mansions of Panam city can bc

Gupta emperors that Tamluk (Tamralipti) earned reputation as a categorized into three:
wealthy sea poft. There was no other way to deny the position of
central Hall type : The mansion whose hall rooms are dottblc
swavarnagram as internal water port. It is mentioned in the
heighted with key focus and are built in plan lay out thcy are
Tibetan history chronicle entitled "Pagsam Jangiong'" Chinese
central hall type mansion. Mansion no. 26 is central hall type
traveller and Buddhist monl< xtanzang (Hstian-tsang; born chen
mansion.
Hui or ChenYi, sometimes also spelt as Hyrrn Tsang c' 602-664

l8
Central Courtyard type : The mansions of Panam city which used to pay 4,59,532Dam and Khijirpur used to pay 40,308 Dam
contains open central courlyard within the buildings of the city as revenues. Sarker Sonargaon had to pay 2,58,283 in sikka taka.
are the central courtyard type mansions. These central courtyard The revenue of the Panam city and Mograpara was determined to
mansions were not necessarily central all the time. Mansion no. be 459,532 Dam. The amount of revenues fixed for Khijirpur was
40 is the central courtyard type mansion. much less than that decided for Sonargaon; it was only 40,308
Dam." However, the word "Sonargaon" used to indicate
Consolidated type : The mansions of Panam city which do not Aminpur, Panam, Dulalpur and Mograpara.
contain any inner hall room or courlyard are consolidated type of
There are three layers of Panam city. Aminpur poftion of the
mansions. For example, tnansion no. 22 of the Panam city is
city, located at the northern side (at northem side of the Pankhiraj
consol idated type ol rnansion.
canal as well) of the city, seems to be older. Relics of Sultani and
Mughal period like Takshal Bari (Treasury House), Kroribari
Dighi, Mathbari, East India Corupany r Kuthi and others still
exist here. Moreover, some installations including Musa Khan's
house, Bag-E-Musa, Isa Para or the house of Isa Khan, Ananta
Musa (the mansion wrapped in memoirs of Musa Khan),
Ranbhawal moLLZa, Dailurbag, Choto Sarderbari in the villages
like Bag-e-Musa, Ananta Musa, Isa Para Khan Jahan mouza or
Dailurbag villages at the southern part of the Panam city
(contemporary of ancient Habelee Sonargaon) are somehow
connected with the Sultani or Mughal period.
Isa Para village is connected with "Khasnagar dighi," aTarge
pond full of memoirs of muslin. One must go for inquisitive
research to find the sources of muslin. Panam city lies in the
middle point between the southern and northern part of the
Unique architectural st.vlc of' the mansion btilt in Panam citl: during the Pankhiraj canal. The end corner of the Adampur road which
Mughal and British period crosses the Mughal period brige of the easterl side (the bridge,
According to Dr. S.M.Taifur, "The history of Sultani dynasty howevel got destroyed) and extends tp to Poddar bari covering
and the Mughal regime was once revolved around the Panam half a mile range. Existence of three ponds with cemented slopes
city." It is also learnt from the sources of the book Ain-E-Akbari, can be noted in the middle part of the city. It is presumed that the
"sarker Sonargaon (the govertment of Sonargaon)" was divided bhawans (mansions) of Panam city have been extended upon the
into 58 mahals in the Mughal regime. Bengal was divided into installations of the Sultani, Mughal and post Mughal period.
19 governments at that era. One of its governmental divisions Large portions of such buildings have been renovated and
was Sarker Sonargaon or government of Sonargaon. Sonargaon archways have been added in those buildings in accordance with

l9
British architectural design in the colonial period and the rear city' was the administrative centre point of "Sarker Sonargaon"
side of the buildings has been shaped. Year and date is inscribed during the Mughal regime in later period. It is presumed that
in the archways of two three-storied mansions adjacent to the there had been a strong base cum shelter of the military unit
archways of the Panam city. Analysis of the Bengali year and centering the "Panam city" and its adjoining areas during the
date inscribed in the archways of these two mansions disclose regime of Isa Khan (1577-1599). The name "Panam" have been
that those were built in Bengali year 1202. According to that widely introduced since the period of Isa Khan and for the sake
estimation these mansions are as old as 250 years. It is assumed of safe shelter of the military garrison.
that the mansions were constructed during the first phase of the An inquisitive observation may reveal the trcnd oI'
East India Company regime. transformation of three periods in the archetecutral texturc ol
However, those aforementioned two mansions have been Panam city. We see the Mughal and the British architcctural
renovated and given a look of British architecture. Because many influence on the Sultani period installations. We do also note
experls consider from the relics of two dilapidated mansions in some differences in the design of the mansions and archways o1'
front of the Panam city (at northerr side) that probably they were the Mughal and British period. The palaces of the Sultani ancl
built during the Sultani period. Both the buildings are now Mughal period were constmcted in adherence to the Islarllic
almost decayed. Actually "Panam city" became a large Aarong architectural design. Decorated lotus and motifs of tlower vascs
(market for buying and selling of muslin. can be observed in the archways of the Panam city in lTtl'
century. The arches of these mansions seem alt't-lost idcntical
with the bunch of lotuses and flower vase ornalxentation of the
fourfold/quadruple architecture of Mograpra Durgahbari by l6tl'
or 17th century. Narrow stairs, middle sized corniocs and
verandahs can be noted in the mansions of the Mughal period
architecture. Hanging roof, thick walls and small vcntilators
were the characteristics of such mansions in the Mughal pcriocl.
Sometimes we also observe the buildings resemblitrg straw
thatched huts at roof tops of the mansions. Huts, synlbol ol-
Bengal's own architecture, still can be obserued at rool top ol-
two mansions in the Panam city. Many esteem that thcsc lrtrl
shaped mansions were generally used as the "Pujar Ghal (rrroltl
of worshipping)" of the Hindu households. We see thc satlo sort
of "hut designed" architecture in the historical Krori Bori. The
The view of the road built within the Panam city^ architecture of Krori Bari resembles with that of Mograpara'
Apart from it, 'Aminpur' used to be considered as the head There were straw thatched and hut designd, cemented tlansions
quarler of Parganah during the reign of Sher Shah and 'Panam on the first floor of the Dulalpur Company kuthi and Indigo

20
kuthi. Decorative works, the ornameuted statue of eagle too are the Muslim landlords of Sonargaon. After shifting of the capital
noticeable in the mansions of the Panam city. Again floral city, the forsaken abodes of evacuee Muslim zemindars from
designs are ornated in the comices, arches and the entry passages Sonargaon became subjected to the new Hindu landlords. The
of these mansions. We do also observe the artangement of floral new city was built after renovation of these ancient mansions.
leafs decoration of these heritage buildings. Somehow it is
in The new Hindu zemindars began using colonial British
presumed that this 400 years' old mansion was made of bricks architecture in their mansions and thus the mansions of this
and cement. period began having the characteristics of British architecture.
As the use of wood or iron beams was not on vogue in that Sculptures of Hindu Gods and Goddesses and curved archways
period, the mansions were used to be made of lime and stone. to enhance the beauty of the roads were made. Sculptures of
But we observe hanging roof witihout wood and iron beams in Urbashi (celestial nymph in Hindu mythology) made of
the interior of the mansions and roofs of wood and iron beams numerous metal elements or brick and cement at top of the
can be noticed in the exterior part of the mansion after you cross archways, lamps in hands or sculpture of candlestick are salient
the interior porlions. Accidentally a new sort of archaeological characteritics this time period.
design has been arranged herc through fusion of the Mughal and
During the l980-s one could see the sculpture of flying
colonial architecture.
Ur-vashis on top of the archways in the highways of Panam. Now
those statues exist no longer. Earlier there was an iron gate at
entry point of the city bridge for safety of the city. A bridge at
eastern side of the Panam city and gates at easterrr, westem and
southerl points at the entry passage of the Bag-E-Musa village
of the southern side used to be closed at night for security
concern. There was a dome shaped mansion at end corner of the
Panam city which was esteemed as "vigilance tower." We can
still note the existence of drainage system as sewerage settlement
in the city of Panam. There were certain small sized mansions
behind the buildings in a row at rear side of the Panam city.
Probably those mansions were meant for the servants, cooks and
priests. There was also the affangement of wells for safe drinking
water. Water of three ponds within the Panam city was generally
used for shower and other everyday activities. A number of steal
Architectural designs o/ the Mttghal and Briti,sh period and iron grills with designs of flowers and leaves have been
Since the shifting of capital city from Sonargaon to Dhaka. added in front of these mansions made in adherence to British
the Muslim zemindars built up their new abodes in Dhaka. This architectural design. Although these mansions are now almost on
is why we see a number of roads in old Dhaka are named after the verge of extinction, there had been eye enticing flower

2t
gardens within these steal and iron grills. There were fixture of Narayanganj was the first chairman of the Narayanganj
indegnous home based games llke ludoo and shologhuti in the Municipality Corporation. He was the founder of the
verandahs of many a number of mansions. Women of such Ananadabazar hat of Sonargaon. Later a number of brilliant
mansions used to get merrily engrossed in these games at students of Sonargaon G.R.Institution became posted in high
afternoon. There had been gorgeous JALSA GHAR (salons) in positions of administrative cadre in India. According to the
the first floors of these beautiful, two-storied mansions. These legends, the rich and wealthy people of Panam city used to
salons used to be usually decorated in the eye catching, organize a number of muzros (where the courtsans used to
architectural designs of drama hall (natghar), hall of worshipping perform songs and dances). Famous courlsans and singers were
and others. used to be invited in lieu of handsome amount of money on
There were terracotta plaques and paintings of flowers, different occasions in the Panam city. But when the English
leaves, flower vases, fresh flowers and paintings of flowers at the civilian James Taylor came to Panam city for a visit in 1840, he
four pronged verandah at all four corners ofthe "Pujar Ghar (hall did not like the overall environment of Panam. It is known from
of worshipping)" or the "Jalsa Ghar (salon)." Small murals of the quotes of James Taylor that the world acclaimed textile
Hindu Goddesses Luxmi and Saraswati can be observed at the industry of Panam was on the verge of extinction at that time.
cornices of the walls within the salons of these mansions. Impact of this economic depression had its effects in Panam.
Owners of such mansions were wealthy. Gorgeous worshipping
Around 1300/1400 muslin weaver families used to live in
Dalalpur. lt was a hub of the muslin weavers, merchants and
ceremonies used to take place in these mansions.
middlemen in the transaction. But Taylor saw names of only 300
Even before 1947, "Jhulan Puja" used to be obserwed with
muslin weavers recorded in the indigo factory. Traders from
huge pomps and grandeurs in the Panam city. Visitors used to
different European countries used to come in Panam during the
come from far and abroad to watch the colorful Jhulan puja.
period of flourishment of muslin in Sonargaon. Probably the
Durga puja too used to be celebrated in fanfare and festivities.
Porluguese, Dutch, Greek, Armenian and Roman traders used to
Puja used to be observed in highest grandeur in the Panam city
come and go in Panam city for trade and commerce.
before 1947. According to the local elders, one could hear the
of Greek-Roman architecture in the
We note the influence
ringing of bells of broze and bell metal and watch the garland of
archways of Panam city. Even the foreign tradcrs have
lamps in the evening.
established permanent abode here for the welfhre of thcir
It is hard to find the history of the elites of the Panam city.
business. For example, the Annenian and Greek traders of Dhaka
Sonargaon G.R.lnstitution was established in Panam city in 1900
based muslin business built up Armanitola in Dhaka. It was the
A.D. for spread of education. Dr. Nalini Kanta Bhattashali, the same way that the European traders established settlement hcre
renowned historian cum the curator of Dhaka Museum, was the during the Mughal period and prior to the Company reign.
student of this school. It is learnt that he passed the matriculation Although no name of any western trader or businessman is
exam from this school in 1930. recorded in today's history. It can be known from the
Narayan Poddar from Poddar Bari of the Panam city of investigations that Panam Sonargaon had been the trade and

22
 business centre of the traders and mariners from orient and Besides getting established here, the "Bablt"s or the Hindu
occident during the golden epoch of the muslin business. It was gentlemen class of Panam had expanded their business in
Nawab Murshid Quli Khan who used to send muslin for the Kolkata too. Many opine that the gentlemen class of the Panam
emperors of Delhi each year. The hooligans plundered muslin city expressed the manifestation of colonial architecture in their
from several mansions in the Panam city during the riot of 1964. abodes in adherence to the structure of the buildings and
The rioters, failing to understand the significance of muslin, mansions in Kolkata.
destroyed the precious muslin.
Refined works of craftsmen of Sonargaon can be observed in
the wooden beds, round tables, wooden sandals, dressing tables,
/' almirahs or even in wooden stairs of this period. However, parts
of coloured ceramic pots were used as decoration in the Jalsa
Ghar (saTons) of Panam city as well as in the archways of the
{
grand mansions like historical Bara Sarderbari, Poddar Bari and ii

others. Tiles of coloured ceramics were amanged in the flowers, td,

s
flower vases and creepers. Aesthetical beauty of these ceramic f
tiles used to gleam in the radiant rays of afternoon sun and the
shine of full moon. There were ponds in front of and behind
every important mansion. There were cemerted slopes at each
pond. There were trees of indigenous flowers hke bakuls
(Spanish Cherry or Medlar; also known as bullet woo; scientific
name is Mimusops Elengi, a medium-sized evergreen tree found
in tropical forests in South Asia, Southeast Asia and northert
Australia) and krishna.chura (Delonix regia is a species of Architectural design o;f the ma.nsions built in the Briti,sh period
flowering plant in the bean family Fabaceae, subfamily
Elites of the Panam city used to get education in Kolkata.
Caesalpinioideae. lt is noted for its fern-like leaves and
Principal mode of transpoft at that time to go Kolkata from
flamboyant display of flowers. In many tropical parts of the
Panam was steamer. Chataria of Bardi, the place on the bank of
world it is grown as an ornamental tree and in English it is given
the river Meghna, was the chief steamer port. Even before the
the name royal poinciana or flamboyant. It is also one of
partition of 1947, the family members of the gentlemen class of
several trees known as Flame tree) and country fiuits at all four
the Panam city, established their permanent abodc in Kolkata.
corners of such ponds. Bricks needed to build these mansions in
Hindus of the lower-middle class in the Panam city somehow
row used to be prepared at orn n superuision of the owners. lt can
retained their identity after the parlition. Latet a large porlion of
be known from the elders that the elites of the Panam city had
the Hindus in the Panam city left for India af'er the riot of 1964'
commercial relations with Kolkata during the British period.

23
 Anti-British movement began to grow within the educated defeated in the war with the Mughals, took shelter in Sonargaon.
class of the Panam city at last phase of the company reign and at Obviously the area was more protected at that time. He fought
first phase of the 20th century. According to the older generation the war from Sonargaon. Today's Panam city could be his shelter.
of the area that many a number of youngmen from the educated The area is really very important as it is like a moat well
and elite class of Panam were involved in the Swadeshi (antr- preserved from al1 sides by natural streams. This part of
British Imperialist) movement. Later the young men and women Sonargaon was under his a.reas of possession. However, the exact
of the elite class migrated to India pafticularly to Kolkata for location of lsa Khan's shelter in Sonargaon is not properly
higher education. The splendors of Panam city began gradually mentioned in the history."e
fading out after 1947 and particularly after the riot of 1964.
(Some information related to the Panam city are taken from
the book by Shamsuddoha Chowdhury entitled "Prachin Nagari
Sonargaon (Ancient city of Sonargaon)."

ArchitectLu"al design of the mansions built dtdng the Mughal

Certain red brick buildings were built at centre of the moat at
all four sides of Panam city. These ancient buildings made of
small bricks remind us the old glory of the ancient days. British
Architectural design oJ the mansions built during the Mughal and
have built indigo factories during their colonial regime in Bengal
British. period
whicli are still known as "company factories." The native
Dr. Habiba Khatun, in her essay entitled 'An Introduction to zemindars (feudal lords) and businessmen too have set up
Sonargaon and Isa Khan" mentioned: 'We are yet to get any residential quafiers at both sides of the roads. Here the Mughal
meaning of the name Panam. Recently some scholars have found noitijhlho (Heritage/Tradition),
Banglaclesh Folk Alt & Crafls Foundation, June
the meaning of this Fersi word as shelter. Isa Khan, after being 2008

24
and British architectural designs blend with each other. Again Aparl from it, once there were a number of buildings like
somewhere the British and ancient Indian architectural designs nutch ghar or dancing halls, monasteries, ponds, hommams or
mingle together. Somewhere one can notice refined bathrooms, treasury toom, durbar hall or the court room, bridge,
ornamentation on stones. Nihqrika (a bar house established by the Hindu zemindars) rest
This historical Panam city was built around both the sides of house and other installations. Today those are wrapped in
approximately five meters wide road. lt is a beautiful eye profound memoirs. These mansions were built at both sides of
catching city with its unique characteristics. Today there are the road and all softs of characteristics of the houses of the urban
around 52 buildings with 31 mansions at the nofth side of the areas of our country can be viewed from front side roads ofthese
road and 2l mansions at the south side of the road. The mansions. These mansions were built with loundation of lime
architectural designs were made in adherence to the European
and cement.
designs. Even local designs were used in some places.
Dr. Shafiqul Alam, former Director General of the
Department of Archaeology, said: "Now the irnplementation
phase of reconstructing the ancient architectural infi'a-structure is
being carried out. This progmmme has been underlaken to make
the Panam city an attractive tourist spot by conserving its well
built mansions and the adjoining environment. One of the major
objectives of this project is to properly conserue the mansions,
residential buildings, ntttch ghar or dancing halls. monasteries,
ponds, hammams or bathrooms, treasury room, durbar hall or
the courl room, bridge. Nihurika (a bar house established by the
Hindu zemindars) rest house and other installations which are
still surviving after centuries of struggle with the nature and
degeneration of time."
According to SM Taifur, 'Traces of old fortilication and The builtlings of the Panam city i.n a row
moats could still be found there. It is presumed that at one time The book entitled "Sonargaon-Panam" published by Asiatic
this place containecl the actual seat of the rulers of Sonargaon." Society of Bangladesh, has mentioned the time frame of these
Renowned l'ristorian James Taylor wrote in his Tbpogrctphv and old mansions in Sonargaon in the following words: "The present
statistic,s of Dac'c'tt'. Panam is the ancient city ol Sonargaon and building of Panam Nagar can at best be dated back to the late
capital city of the Mr-rslims which they used to call as Havellee l8th or early lgth century. So it is very likely that the colonial
Sonargaon. It is situated about two miles inland from the period structures grew up on the site of an earlier occupation of
Brahmaputra Creek." the Muslim period. Only archaeological excavations in the area

25
either prove or disprove this hypothesis."lO The almost decaying indigo used to be exported from India to the outer world as a
mansions are precious to any tradition loving human being very important dyeing material. But its importance declined
though at present we lack the souvenirs of the most glorious since invention of artificial indigo. By middle of the lBth century,
period of this city with its past heritage. The functioning of cultivation of any other crop except indigo became almost
Bangladesh Folk Arts and Crafts Museum began on March l2 of impossible in this country. The tale of indigo plantation is a
1975 after renovating an old rest house of this Panam city under tragic anecdote of the torture and cruelty on the Bengalis by
government requisition. colonial British rulers. However, it was wiped out almost from
the entire Bangladesh since after the indigo rebellion (revolt of
the indigo farmers) in 1859-61.rr
The indigo factory in Sonargaon is a heritage mansion in the
Dulalplur road at a little distance from the historical Panam
bridge. It is known that this indigo factory was at first a trading
center of muslin. Later it was transformed into an indigo factory.
It was basically a building established for indigo trading for the
British indigo planters in the colonial regime. It is a mansion
with niche shaped doors and widows installed lengthways at
front side. Open corridor design has been followed within the
indigo factory. Probably it was an indigo manufacturing factory
of the East India Company. [t was probably established during
1626 to 1660 A.D. Mughal architectural design and local
decorative motifs have been added in it. Indigo factory is one of
Indigo Factoty the notable mansions of Sonargaon the ancient capital city of
Indigo Factory Bengal
Indigo is a special sort of herb. It is known as Indigo in English,
German and Fersi while it is called as Nilika in Sanskrit. It is
termed as Lleel in Hindi and Bengali. This particular species of
Indigo produces a specific type of dyeing material which is blue
in colour. There are around 250-300 species of indigo trees in the
world. Indian sub-continent alone is the birth house of near about
40 species of Indigo tree. Till the end of the 18th century natural rlBanglar
Neel Chash O Neel Bifuoher Itihas (lndigo plantation in Bangladesh
l0sonargaon-Panam
Asiatic Society of Bangladesh, March 1997 and History of Indigo Rebellion), Rajib Ahrned, Gatidhara, Dhaka-l 100.

26
 Panam city : Immortal in remembrance Panam city - the city wrapped in the golden memoirs of
our past traditions. Today's sleeping city, surrounded by
moats, Panam was once vibrant with the footsteps of a
number of zemindars, merchants and travelers. These
picturesque mansions are valuable to all the tradition
loving and cultured persons of our country.

Aminptr Monastery Old Rest House

21
Panlrhiraj canal Legendaty Durbar Hall

Nutchghar (Dance Hall) Inlerior side ofthe rest house

28
Decorated mansion and Kashinath Bhawan

The bunker ofthe Panam city Ancient mansions of Panam city

29
Panam Bridge Treasurer House
The bridge made during the Muslim reign is known as panam It is known as government treasury. The treasurer house or Krori
bridge. It is made upon the Pankhiraj canal within the Dulalpur Bari is situated at the Aruinput Mahullo near the Sonargaon
and Panam areas. The bridge is made of three arches with round municipality office. Traditional two fold (dochala) architectural
shaped bricks raised on a pafticular height within the marshland
design has been used in the two storied building. All the four
and tlrrough the foundation of lime and cement. The middle arch
sides of this mansion were sur:rounded and protected by high
is larger than two other arches at both of its sides. The upper parl
walls made of latticed (Jafii) bricks. 'Ihere was a Iarge pond
of the bridge takes a slope and goes downwards. It is 4.24 meters
(dighi) with cemented slopes at nofth side of the Krori Bari.
wide and its height from the soil level was B.4B meters. Two
This mansion used to vibrate at foot-steps of the revenue officials
other arches were as wide as 2.27 meters and 4.24 meters high.
Pillars in the middle were as thich as 2.21 meters. The pool was and employees in the golden days of Sonargaon. The Krori Bari
as long as 51.6 meters. It was built to facilitate passage of the is a unique fusion of Muslinl and Hindu architectural designs.
boats from under the bridge.r2 It is repoftedly known that the Floral decoration can be noticed at the walls of the mansion. It is
bridge was made in the l7t1' century. Panam bridge is a unique presumed as Treasurer House because of presence of innumerous
example of the Mughal archaeology. It is one of the cells within the mansion.
archaeological treasures preserved by the I)epartment of
Archaeology.

Tt'cttsurcr llotL,se
Panam Bridge Accorcling to thc legends. 'Gold coins :rnd coins approved by
IIBanglaclesh
cl Pratnasarnpacl (Archucological 'fleasurcs oI Blurglirclesh)" the governnrcnt used to be prcscned in thc underground cells of
AbLrl Kalanr Moharnmad Zakaria. Divya Prakash, t)haka. the Krori Buri. Here was the trcasurv worth about one krore taka.

30
This is why this mansion is publicly known as Krori Bari. house was Ananda Mohan Poddar. Later some Mr. Awal
Moreover, the title of revenue supervisor and revenue collector purchased the house and thus the ownership of the house was
during the regime of Mughal Emperor Akbar was Krori." transferred. This widely discussed Poddarbari contains
Historian Bradley Baft, in his book entitled 'Romance of an innumerable rooms. It's architectural design replicates the
Eastern Capital,' has mentioned about Krori Bari. Swarup historical Bara Sarderbari in the premises of the Sonargaon
Chandra Roy, in his book Subarnagram er ltihas (History of Museum.
Subarnagram), has observed: 'Coins bearing the name of There are two ponds with cemented slopes at the norlherl
Shamsuddin Muzaffar Shah were engraved in Sonargaon." Due and southem sides in front of this picturesque mansion. A spot
to lack of proper maintenance, the grandeur of approximately visit to the Poddarbari revealed that today the mansion stands at
400 years'old treasury house is fading out. a degenerating state. Some new infra-stmctures have been built.

Core hri.Irling ry' lItt' I\tthItrrlutt'i ()rtt' ltr trl i ttrr of l'odtlu.rburi

Poddarbari
'l'[ris is one of thc rlost noteworthy mansions in Sonargaon. [t is
rulso located near thc Sonargaol.r MLrnicipality Corporation. Once
upon a time this housc was nalnecl as "Sonajheel." Nour it is
linoln as'Awal N'lanjccl" in thc area. Irarlicr the owner of this

3t
 h,
&e"
o*di

i:

L
Corridor of the Poddarbari Mansion wrapped in memoirs

t
I

The door oJ'the garden in Poddarbari B aluadighiryar Jame Masjid

32
BaluadighirPar Jame Masjid
This mosque is situated in the Baluadighirpar village. It was built
in 1900 A.D. The rectangular mosque contains one dome' It is
also being used as the central niche at the western wa1l of the
mosque. it should be noted that recently the mosque has been
widened at its three sides for ease of the devotees to offer their
prayers. Right now construction work of the second floor is
goirrg oo. Alhaj Mohammad Abul Hashem Molla, lhe motwalli
of tf'," lxosqLlc, informed that the mosque measures around 48
feet at east-west and 42 feet at north-south'
Sonargaon G.R.l nstitution
Sonargaon G.l{.lnstitr-rtion was established in 1900 A'D' Sri
Gangabasi l)odclar aniJ Ram Chandra Poddar, two reputed
personalities ol'tlris rcgion, established this Institution to spread
education. Its total arca measures about 3.08 acres. There is an
openplaygroutldwitlrinthcschoolbuilding.Theschoolwas
,pg.ua.atoHighcrScconclarystatusinlgg5.ltistheancient
most educational irtstittrtiort of Sonargaon'

,,i

Institution lmage of Hossain Shah mosque whose roofis broken now (1966)
Sonargaon G. R.

JJ
Goaldi mosque
The major work of the Muslim Sultans in Sonargaon is
crxstnrction of the Coaldi mosque. Some Molla Hifbar Akbar
Khan establishcd this mosque during the reign of Sultan
Alauddin Hossain I(han, the sovereign ruler of Bengal. Dr. Wise,
while ivriting aboLlt the design and decoration of this mosque,
observed : "The interior of thc mosque is 16112 feet square; the
four walls, as they ascend. givc space to the eight walls of an
octagon. A1 each corner are qltartcr domes clr arch (i.e. squinch
arch)and thc dorne rises fion, the pen-dentives. As usual there
are mihrabs of arched recesses. The central one is for-rned of dark
basaltic work. The two side ones are of brick, boldly cut and
graccfully arrangcd. The bricks in the archways have been
groundecl and smoothed by manual labour. The pillars at the
cloor-rvays are of sandstone. It was used as a lnosque up to 1582
A.l). ri

l{islori ca l Cloa l di ruos que

llMr-rslim
Architecture in Bengal, PlofessorA.H.Dani, p. 237 Decoration ,ttyle oJ'the Goaldi mosque wall

34
S.M.Taifur, while visiting this enchanting mosque at the first Each atm within the square Jullah of the mosque measures
phase of the 20th century opined: "Its stone door frame, artistic around 4.90 meters in length. There is a 1'65 meters wall at all
mihrab and pulpit and its inscription slabs in beautiful cursive four sides ofthe Jullah. There are five vault passages to enter the
Arabic is thrown there." mosque. Of them three are there in the easteru wall. The central

Traditional Islamic and Arabic decoration can also be vault passage is larger than the two adjoining vault passages in
height and width. These are inserted within the surface panels.
noticed on the bricks and stones of the inner and outer walls of
Here once can notice the use of bifocal arch. There are three
this mosque just like other mansions in Gauda and Pandua of
niches (mehrabs) in the westem wall in a face to face position of
India and different places of Bangladesh.
the three passage ways of the eastern wall. The central niche is
According to Sir Cunningham, "The mosque measured
located face to face of the the main passage way. It is larger than
abolli.7.92 meters at the outer side and its walls were almost 1'61
the two adjoining niches in height and width. Black stone has
meters wide. There were terracotta plaques at both sides of the
been used in the cardinal niche (mehrab). Other two niches
wall. Three entry passages of the eastern wall were wide and (mehrabs) are built of bricks. Curved vault has been used in front
there was another low entry passage at the south wall. There
of the central niche (mehrab). This vault rises from the nearby
were beautiful terracotta plaques at two adjoining niches decorated, octagonal pilaster and ends at the spear sized top of
(mehrabs)."14
the mosque. The location of central nich (mehrab) has been
Before the reconstruction work was carried out by the shown at the outer side of the westem wall. The concave sized
Department of Archaeology, the dome of the mosque and the niches of this mosque are round in shape. There are four
major portion of its south wall, east and north walls broke down. rectangular recesses at four corlrers ofnorthem and southern side
Only the quibla wall of the western side of the mosque remained within the mosque. There are two pillastars in each of the four
intact. Later the mosque was restored to its original form and walls. The roof of the mosque is covered by a large dome. The
shape after renovation work. dome is made of squinch.
There are four round shaped coflIer towers at four corners of The motifs used on the teracotta designs of this mosque can
this one dome mosque. These towers have ended at the boundary also be witnessed at the stone built cemetery of Sultan
of the roofs constructed in accordance with the architectural Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah at Sonargaon. Goaldi mosque is the
design of the Sultani era. The towers have been divided into most decorated mansion of Sonargaon. It's back made of thick
several parts through moulding. It is a unique example of round bricks, are decorated in the terracotta design.
shaped corner tower mosque instead of the octagonal cofiler Of all the archaeological examples in Bangladesh, the
towers at eastern side of Bangladesh. historical Goaldi mosque containing of only one dome, is really
laArchaeological very attractive.
Surwey of India Repot by SirA.Cunningham XV P 143

35
Shah Abdut Hamid mosque Establishment of Bangladesh Folk Art & Crafts
Shah Abdul Hamid mosque is the one dome mosque located at
Foundation
rrorthcrn side of the historical Goaldi urosque. Shah Abdul Bangladesh Folk Art & Crafts Foundation is a national
flamid, a mendicant in the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb, built
institution which is profoundly engaged in collection,
preservation, exhibition of and research to the examples of
this nrosque in lll6 Hijri and 1705 A.D. Some extension work
history and tradition, folk culture and folk tradition as well. It is
has bcel carried out in the mosque to facilitate the of lering of thc
one of the organs of the Ministry of Culture. Sonargaon is an
prayers. There is a tomb of the founder of this mosque at the enriched centre of folk tradition and folk heritage development.
yard at east-south corner of the mosque. It is an attractive
exarnple of the mosque dr,rring the Mughal rcgirne.

Father ctf the Nution llungubunclhu Sheilch Mttjibtu' Ruhtntrtr, grcutc.sl

Bcnguli ol all tintc. lt is through the lirst /inanciul u.sl;i.tlutrct', utlvict'
untl putronage ancl thc ,tirtt'cre q/fufis o/ Shipacharyu l,uitrtrl llrtlitt
Shuh Abdul Hamid mosque tltut lhe ()overnmenl cstublished Bangladesh Rtlk Art Ll ('trrfi.:'
Founclation hy a gazette ruttific:uti.on on Murch l2 o.f 1975.
Oncc upon a time the folk at1s and craft items of Sonarglron likc
muslin, pearl ornarnentatior-r, elephants, horses atrd clolls carned
the status of being expotl itenrs. It is in the contcxt of this folk
oultural tradition that Father of the Nation Bangtrbandhu Sheikh

36
Mujibur Rahman first assigned Shilpacharya Zairil Abedin with constitution, 'Abedin bhai, you just start your work now. Both I
the responsibilities of directing Bangladesh Folk Art and Crafts and the Bangladesh government are prepared to extend our
(Lok O Karushilpa) Foundation by granting financial assistance whole hearted suppoft to you. Just a little request: sometimes I
and advice to collect, preserve, exhibit and restore the produces will go to Sonargaon fora little stay. Please keep a snrall seat lor
of the folk arl and arlisan craft in Sonargaon as a symbol of the me besides you and take necessary arangements so that I can
essence of the Bengali nationhood. The govemment,by a gazette derive and learn the energy and inspiration from you to make
notification, established Bangladesh Folk Art and Crafts (Lok O something beautiful."
Karushilpa) Foundation in the heart centre of Sonargaon in
March 12 of 1915.
Renowned painter Hashem Khan, in his article Bangabandhu
and Zainul Abedin, has recollected how Zainul Abedin showed
the cover design of the first Constitution of Bangladesh
illustrated by him to Bangabandhu and told: 'Today your dream
is to build this war ravaged country as the golden Bengal (Sonar
Bangla). People of Bengal are prepared to strengthen your
hands- you should -just nlake the call to them.'Bangabandhu saw
the constitution for a long time. Then he said, "You people have
made my work easy. Now what can I do for you?"
"I wish to start a work now. I need your help," said Zainul
Abedin. "I wish to build the historical Sonargaon besides Dhaka
in a new way," Shilpacharya began saying again, "It is this
Sonargaon which used to manufacture the presently extinct but
Tburists vi.siting the sculpture of Father oJ the Nation Bangabandhu
once world reputed muslin. We should undertake immediate Sheikh Mujihur Rahman
plans to conserve and sustain our tradition and art as well as
Dreams of making the constitution and the Golden Bengal or
revive them. I have conceived a large planning to inspire the
Sonar Bangla- conversation of two great souls! I became simply
craftsmen in their creative efforts and establish a folk art museum
in Sonargaon. And we need your help and inspiration in doing it. overwhelmed. I had no idea about how the great men look. But
I believe that the work of building yotr Golden Bengal will on that day I felt we were in front of two great persons.
progress a lot if we can translate our planning on Sonargaon to Both of them had great souls containing the millions of
rea I ity." people of Bengal in their hearts. They both shared the dreams of
Bangabandhu became a little amazed and looked at building Sonargaon and Sonar Bangla. They both had some
Shilpacharya. He took some time and then said in a voice filled unique resemblances within themselves. Both of them have been
up with delight and wonder while tuming over the pages of the lost from us. Enemies of humanity have snatched them from ns.

37
Menacing and non-curable disease cancer killed Shilpacharya Each year around one million (ten lakh) tourists from home
and some mercenaries assassinated Bangabandhu. Those and abroad visit Sonargaon. A major portion of our people in
mercenaries were the sheer enemies of Bengal and the humanity. villages and mofussils are engaged in different sorts of folk
Meantime, this Foundation has successfully passed 42 years artisan and craftsmanship. This is why Sonargaon Folk Aft &
since its inception. Honourable Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina Crafts Foundation considers it's important to develop the
established Shilpacharya Zaintl Folk Art & Crafts Museum. heritage of folk tradition in Bangladesh. Henceforth Sonargaon
Bangladesh Folk Arl & Crafts Act was approved in the Jatiya Folk Arts & Crafts Foundation is heart of traditional folk afi &
Sangsad (National Parliament) and was published in gazette crafts.
notification on May 6 of 1998. The work of Sonargaon Folk Art
Activities of the Foundation
& Crafts Village Development Project was completed during the
Activities of Bangladesh Folk Arts & Crafts Foundation, in
reign of the Awami League government.
accordance with Act no. B of 1998, will be as follows:
The Awami League government came to power for the
second time in 2009 and implemented the project entitled folk art & crafts,
a) Preservation of historical
"Physical Infra-structure and Extension of the Safety System." b) Making arrangements for training on folk crafts.
A high sculpture of Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman c) Establishing folk ar1 museums at different areas of the
has been erected in the floral/flower garden in front of the country.
administrative building of the Foundation. The sculpture is made
d) Founding a crafts village at Sonargaon, Narayanganj.
of bell metal and depicts the Father of the Nation in the epic
moment of delivering the historical address of 7tl'March 1971. e) Making provisions for research on folk art & crafts
This is really a matter of pride and the Bengal nation in general. and taking measures to publish the findings and
Meantime, a bust sculpture of Shilpacharya Zainul Abedin and theories from the research studies.
another sculpture of Shahid (marlyr) Sheikh Russel, the youngest f) Conservation of the examples of folk art & crafts and
son of Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, have been encouraging the traditional folk aft & crafts.
installed. All the three sculptures are creation of sculptor g) Planning and implementing the plans in development
Shyamal Chowdhury. The present government has also of folk art & crafts.
introduced pension scheme for the officers and employees of h) Offering help and cooperation to any person or
Bangladesh Folk Arts & Crafts Foundation after 38 years since agency occupied in research on folk art & crafts.
the establishment of the Foundation.
i) Helping the government in issuing the policies on
Aparl from presence of the Folk Art & Crafts Museum and development of folk art & crafts and offering advice
ShilpacharyaZainti Abedin Folk Art & Crafts Museum, projects
to the government, local institutions or any other
for enhancing the beauty of the Foundation and other agency regarding any related affairs.
opportunities have been undeftaken.

38
 j) Underlaking joint schemes on same topic with the nation. It is the symbol of national pride as well. Folk Aft &
national, foreign or intemational folk arls & crafts Crafts Foundation is the specialized conseryatory of our rich
institutions with prior approval from the cultural heritage.
government. Initially the joumey of this specialized folk ar1 & crafts
k) Doing other things reciprocal or relevant with the museum commenced with the exhibition of the valuable cultural
aforementioned activities. examples to a small extent of the Panam city.
The entire campus of the Bangladesh Folk Art & Crafts
Foundation measuring about 170 bighas ensures heavenly delight
with the chirpings of birds. Eye enticing lakes, ponds, libraries,
sale centers, sculptures, folk restaurants, bridges, crafts village/
jamdani village, folk crafts village and other spots attract people
to the lush green views of nature. Tourists from home and abroad
know no joy because of the alrangements of fishing, boat riding
or riding on the swings.

Shilpa.charua Zainul Folk Art & Crufts Musetm.

Zainrl Abedin was an artist of unique caliber with
intemational acclaim. He was born in Kishoreganj on December
29 of 1914. He died on May 28 of 1916. He was honoured with
the title "Shilpacharya (Teacher of Art)" for his unparallel
sensibilities as an artist and dreamy imaginative power. He
actively engaged himself in the movement to revive the tradition
Rtlk Art & Crafts Musettn'r and culture of our country. It is as a token of recognizing his
contribution that Prime Minister Sheilch Hasina inaugurated the
FolkArt & Crafts Museum new museum entitled "Shilpacharya Zaintl Folk Art & Crafts
Museum is the conservatory and gallery of the cultural elements Museum" on October 19 of 1996. Number of galleries in this
and ingredients of a country. Museum reflects the soul of a museum is three.

39
 SaIe centre
A central sale centre has bccn established at one of the most eye
enticing spots of the Folk Aft & Crafts complex fbr the tourists
and visitors keeping in mind their taste, demands ancl abilities.
An effort to combine the visitors' wishes and abilitics to pur-
chase a number of craft items and jamdani saree has bccn unclcr-
taken in this sale centre.

Folk Restaurant
Folk Art & Crafts Foundation has established a folk rcstatrrrutl itt
a rural ambience to meet up the dietary needs of the tourists lrlil-
ing in Sonargaon to have pleasure, enteftainment. expet'icrtt'es
and do some little shopping. Although the restaurant canrrol err
sure supply of all sorls o1'nrodern food, its auspicious bcgirrrrirrg
can bring a new ray of hope.
Prine ll[inister Shailth. Husin.tr inuugtuutetl lhc nevv rnL$eLtm cntillctl
'Shilpa.c'hart,tr Zcrinul fulk.4rt <9 Cru/i,:' lTusatrnt'on October l9 d 1996
FolkArt & Crafts Village
Bangladesh bears upon proud heritage in folk arts itrrtl cr.rtlls.
First folk ar1 & crafts village was established in Sotutt.grtrttt to
protect our cultural traditron based heritage, showcirsc llre rrclivc
zrnd vibrant environment of our traditional craftsntcrt lo llre visi-
tors along with an introduction to the thoughtfulncss, rurlure lrnrl
cxtcnt of the creative vigour of people in differcnl t'cgiotts ol'thc
country. It was establisl,ed in order to patronize thcr proll'ssiorr ol'
traditional craftsmen at state level. Use of local irtgt'ctlrctrls rrtrtl
elements are becoming dependent on wishes, test antl lltotrlilrtlirl
ness of people. This is why human beings have givclr rt lertl lirt'rn
to this art through use of cheap, construction matcliitls ruttl llttts
the tradition of making of our home and hearth has bccrr htrill.
This very folk arts village will be considered as att ctltttrt lrtsctl
folk museum besides the Folk Aft & Crafts Museunr.

Prime ll4i.ni,ster Sheikh Hasina vi.siting the Shilpocharyu Zoilul Folk Art Enterprises built under this project
& (i'tlis l[useunt

40
 'r Active working environment and home of the wood A sincere effort to establish a miniscule Bangladesh by creating
artisans. a well ordained, folk cultural ambience has been made here - an
'r Active working environment and home of the artisans of ambience that reflects our rural, folk life comprising of our
wood, cane and mat (made of aquatic plants) small and thousand years' long tradition, heritage and civilization.It will
cottage industry contain the real infra-structure of the traditional Bengal,
topography, rural architectural designs, rivers, hills, lakes,
the conch bangle, oysters and pearl small and cottage fountains, forests, tea gardens, life-styles and ambiances.
industries.
Besides, the local folk arts and crafts of Bangladesh will be
presented in a miniscule way by creating the folk environment of
thc wcaving industry including jamdani, silk, Tangail
salcc:, rnkshi karrtha (crnbroidered quilt) etc.
people belonging to different castes and communities. Apart
, Activc rvorli.irrs cnvilonment and home of the arlisans in from it, a new horizon of the modem technological opportunities
lhc irrrlrrstr-y ol'.jutc rnade goods. willexist in the miniscule Bangladesh project.
', Activc r,vorliirrg cnvironment and home of the arlisans in
coppcr-bcll rrrclll lrrtl iron workshops,
Fishing in lake
Everyday thousands of visitors throng at the premises of FolkArt
hand nrarlc ;xrpcr intlrrstry. & Crafts lnllseum, Sonargaon. Of them, there is a particular type
of the visitors who come here to derive the pleasure of fishing in
the lake besides the museum.

.lt ti,stttt t oultle Bircndnr Srrtnulhur untl Diltoli Rani Sutradhor w-orking
irr tlrL'l'itll; tlrl untl ('rulis L/illtrgc. Fishing in lake

41
Fee o1'fishing in this widc. arlificial lake is only 1700.00/ taka. in Bangladesh), Madhumati (name of'a river in Bangladesh),
Fishes catt be catrght lrere rvith five f,rshing lines per ticket. The Dhansinri Name oJ'a river in Bangladesh), Kushiara (Name of ct
fishcr hils to bear other associated costs of' the fishing lines, river in Bangladesh), Karnaphul (Name of a river in
chun'h (a large earthen mangcr), egg of ants, bre;rd etc. Bangladesh),, Kartoya (Ittame of a river), lchamati (Name of o
river), Shankhamala (Conch [4ktman), Palki (Palanquin),
Karr.palli krulata, Rupashi Bangla (Beautiful Bengal), Jalkonq (Water
The rnarkcting stall of l(arupalli has been ftlunded with a number Drop), Swarnalata, Mayurpankhi (Peacaock Fleet), Sonar Tttri
of traclitional srnall ancl hzrndicrelfts items at the third gate of the (Golden Fleet), Padmaraga, Kushum-Koli, Hiialtoli, Nolak,
Founclation rl,'it it's bacl<drop o{'captivating scenic beauty. There
Nakshi Kantha (Embroidered Quilt),, Sanier Chayya (Evening
arc'18 stalls natned as ShaTtlo (Lktter LilD, lVeel Paclma (Blue
Shartow), Supta Dinga (Seven Fleet), Prajapati (Butterfly) und
Lotr.ts), Alturuiitr.t (sonte sort of crceper), Krishnoc:htrra (Dektnir
Banalata (name of a Benguli woman). Special measures havc
Regicr ), J huntlto lo I ct ( Pass ifl oro ), M atlh a bilut,l ( s ltri n g t'ree1tg v).
been undertaken in Korupalli to prepare, exhibit and sale
different sorts of craft items along with Jamdani saree thrclugh
patronage of the weavers, artisans and craftsmen.

Murke'ting,slo I I t t/' KttrtrPtr II i

Svt,arnokunruri, Sundh.tumuIrtti, ['lusnuhenrt,,\tr.\'crtnukhi (Sun
Flow,er ), Ru tl hu chtrro. C' h o.n cl ntnt ulli r:ka, Dot;e I (Magpi e Robin), Auspiciotrs Fastival ol' Banglatlesh Folk Art & Cra.lis Fottndation,
Neelkanthi, Gungchil (Seu Gull), Dhon Shalik., Raianigonclha, People enjoy pleasur boctt in the Founclation Lake.
Muhtn, Dolunt:hcrnttrtu, llrt-t:untttt'o, Nu\tagango (nttme tlf a river

42
 stairs to ascend the roof of the two storied house. Earlier there
Entertainment spot had been a watch tower on the roof. It was made for the guards to
Three entertainment spots named after three major rivers of keep vigilance. There were moats all around the mansion which
Bangladesh- Padma, Meghna and Jamuna have been built in the used to keep it well guarded. It is also termed as the "gateway" of
calm and quiet, serene and eye catching spot of a newly the palace of Musa Khan. The mansion in discussion is known as
acquiesced area by the Foundation to create ample entertainment Choto Sarderbari. It is an architectural work of around 400 years
opportunities for the tourists and visitors at Sonargaon Folk Ar1 ago. Bagh-e-Musa or the garden of Musa Khan is located at the
& Crafts Museum. north-eastern side of Choto Sarderbari. This mansion in
Apart from it, the Foundation accommodates a moderlized, discussion is well adored the curious visitors as a uni
seven coloured fun and amusement spot. This arrangement will
contribute in building bridge between the cultural traditions of

Choto Sardet' Bari before reconstrttction

Entertainment ,spot
Choto Sarder Bari
Choto Sarder Bari is one of the great mansions within the ancient
archaeological works in Sonargaon. This mansion is situated at
the south-western side of the administrative building of
Bangladesh Folk Art & Crafts Foundation. The house is
omamented after Mughal architectural design. There are narrow

43
 Bangladesh FolkArt & Crafts Foundation
in photography

Sunil Chandra Paul and Aruti Rani Paul, the artisan couple v,ho mcrlces

Craftswoman- Lady Amirun-Nagar, Alipur, 1379 Bangabda Sabita Rani Modi, a cool mat craftswoman, seen working in th.e month
Bangladesh ,showcased in embroidered qttilt long exhibition o/'the Folk Artists and Craftsmen.

44
t

Tall sculpture oJ'Father of the Nation and Greatest Bengali o/'all

ages Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, sctilpture by Shyamal
.Jam.dani saree (pctrt {UNESCO aclorcwledged world heritage) Chowdhury, Year: 2013 A.D.

45
 ,

Sculpture ofSheikh Russel, son ofFather ofthe Nation Bangabandhu

Sailptwre of Shilpacharya Zainu.l Abedin Sheikh Mnji.bur Rahman. Year: 201 l.

46
Child participanl.t in puinting competition while observing the.
International Mother Lu ngutr ge Day

Wooden gate exhibited in the gallery

Sushanta Pal, an amateur potter working in the month long folk craft fatr

47
 1

, it[

r1.

il
fifi

It,]
I

l'r'itt<'i1trl *tlc of l)rrtt,qltttlt':h l,itlk Art & Cra/is Foundation

Folk Arts and Crafts Liltrary

,{

il I
Sonar ktri munc'h. (stage) Nagordola(Merry Go lkrund)
I
48
 ,t

"J
$"l
Exhibition o/ rural life as a special arrangement offolkfestival
Minister of Cuhurc ,l,sut,Irr. ,trurtn Noor MP visiting the Zainul Folk Arts
and Crafts Mus<,trnt. 'l'ltt ' rtrirristr,t' i,s heing accompanied by painter
Hashem Khan und l)in,< tt)t'()f tltt' Alrrseum Poet Rabindra Gope

['
il
il
i-'

E
Ut

Luxmi Ra.ni Sinha, an artisan of Manipuri indigenous textile on her

Ptrrt of the visitors in the nuseum gallery kamor tctnt (weaving machine)

49
Historical folk dram.a (Yatra) Khan" staged at the premises of the
Folk Arts and CraJts Mtrseum

scto

Foreigner tourists visiting the Founda.tion Bell metal Horse

50
 Examples of bell metal craft items in the gallery

Silver incense slic'li

Elephants made oJ bell metal

51
Historical Baro Sarder Bari Itis an earncst etlbrt to bring back the original form t'tf IJaro
Thousand years long history of enrichment, tradition and glory is Surd.erburi through restoration of the traclilional installatiotrs of
intertwined with Sonargaon. The historical Bara Sarbderbari and the country at first private initiativc. Youtlg Wan. a Korca based
other adjoining aristocratic mansions and commercial centers nTultintrtional company, had been workit.t-u harcl rclcrltlcssly fbr
bear the signature of economic prospcrity of its inhabitants dur- last five years to restore the ori-rlinal look of thc Itistrlricrrl [Juru
ing the colonial regime. Despite the passage of long many years Surtlerburi. It is being firmly bclreveci that thc histot'ical ljrr|rr
since the golden days of Sultani dynasty, these historical exam- Sarderbari will bc consiclcred as or.le olthe ntost ltttt'rtctivc lott'
ples remind us of the glorious days. Those days bring us back to rist spot of the conntry.
our golden past.

ff{r0${[mfi[[fl|

tftAu6ufiATlsl{ 0$
14TH DECEMBER 2012

H istorical Bttro Sarderbari belbre restoration

Mr Abtl Kalum A:,ud MP, the then Ministcr rtl thc ln/brntution und Cul-
turo.l. ll/hirs Ministr'.t', inuugr.u'ttled thc.fittrntlutirtn plaque oJ the resloru' Objective of the Baro Sarder Bari restoration proic'ct
tion u-orlt ol Lhe hi.ttorit:trl .Bttnl Surdcr Buri. Ahclulluh Al Ku.iser, lor- Reputed Baro Sarder Bari located at the heart of Sonargaon is a
mer MP r1f Narctt,crnuttnj-3, Suraya Rcgum Nl)(1. /orner Secreturv of luminous example of Islamic archaeology. It is knowlt as lhc
lhe Ministr.v of OuLturul A.//airs, Mr. Kihak Swrg. Chairperson of'Young
house of Isa Khan the glorious ruler of Bengal once ttpotl a titne.
Wn Corporation., Poet Rabintlrtt Gopc, Director rtf lhe lbun.do.tion, Dr.
Abu Sayeed M Ahnetl, Direclor Art:hilet:t o/ the Burc So.rder Bari Re-
It is 600 years' long chronicle of the period of the Baro Bhuyians
stora.tiott w-ork, Lee Yttn-Yowtg, Honorttble Ambctssttdor oJ'the Koreun (Twelve Chieftains/ Feudal Lords), Mughal and the British re-
Emba.ssy, Barrister Rcliqul Haque antl others were presetTl on this a.trs gimes. And strangely enough that this particular palace of Sonar-
picious oc'c:crsion. gaon, Narayanganj bears upon almost all the archaeological evi-

52
dences and examples of the aforementioned three periods. This royal tone of Baro Sarder Bari by granting allotments for its ren-
particular .jer,*,*[ of history was going to be extinct in course of ovation work. It should, however, be noted that Yang Wan Corpo-
time and urban aggression. However, the post-Independence ration is the largest foreign investor in Bangladesh. Yang Wan
government acquiesced the ancient mansion widely acclaimed as Corporation is adopting proper measures to presele Baro Sarder
Sarder Bari along with the adjoining land in the campus. Bangla- Bari in a scientific way. The renovation work, once completed,
desh Folk Arts and Crafts Museum was built upon it after parlial will showcase the tradition, elegance and culture of people of
renovation work at the decades of the eighties. It is after 35 this courrtry. Implementation of the restoration project in discus-
years' long experiences of investing in Bangladesh that a Korean sion will bring back the basic infra-structure of the palace and
entrepreneur Kihak Stmg had built a profound hearty relationship then the ancient royal life-style of this mansion will be revived in
with the people of this country. It is against this backdrop that he front side of it. The rear side of the mansion will be transformed
talked with the authorities to restore back the original beauty of into "Folk Art & Crafts Council."
the Baro Sarcler Bari. It was on January 03 of 2012 that a histori-
cal accord to ccrlnmcncc and complete the Baro Sarder Bari re-
storation worh was signed between Young Wan Corporation of
South Korea and thc I\4inistry of Culture.

Rece,ssrf Bttro Sarderbari conslructetl during the Mughal period

While asked about the exceptional endeavour of the Yang
Wan Corporation to restore back the lost glory of Baro Sarder
Bari, Mr. Zahangir Sadat, President of Korea EPZ, opined: "The
H i.s 1 o r ic: tr I Bun t Su rtl c r lt u t' i ufie r re s torution
restoration project in discussion has its main goal to revive back
Mr. Kihak Surrg, Chairperson of'Yang Wan Corporation, the the original beauty of Baro Sarder Bari. It will be a wonderful
Korea-basccl Multi Nartional Corporation (MNC) and CEO of story for Bangladesh if other Multi National Companies (MNCs)
I(orca EPZ, has undertaken unique endeavors to bring back the too adopt the precedent ofYang Wan Corporation to restore back

53
the original archaeological beauty of other historical resources help us to assume that it was no rcsidential bLrilding. Actually
like Batn Sunler Ruri. this ntansiorl \,.as a conrrrrercial or industrial burilding. It used to
bc erlployed as the ccluunercial or inclustr"ial nransion. I think
there are a very handfirl of rnansions in Banglacleslr which con-r-
prises the nrerits of the archacological r,vorks from four gclrcra-
tiotis namely the pre-[slaruic, prc-N4r:ghal, Baro Bhr-ryiaLr
('Inelvc Fer-rclal Lords) ancl British colonial eras."

Architectural design within the middle of the Baro Sttrder Bari

Dr. Abu Sayeed M Ahmed (Director of the Baro Sarder Bari
Restoration Project and Head, Department of Ar:chaeology in the ii
Asia-Pacific University), while nanating his experiences of the
restoration work of Bara Sarderbari. observecl: "The much nar-
rated Baro Sarder Bari is a notable archaeological installation of
,lrclritct'lurul tle.;ign v,ithin tltc littrrt rt/ tha [Jurut Suriler [Juri
the medieval age at heart of Sonargaon. Reconstruction and reno-
vation works centering this ancient installation were camied out Characteristic of Baro Sarder Bari
in different periods. This widely discr"rssed mansion, embellished A spot visit to Baro Sardcr Bari with the intent to galhcr'
in unique decoration, encompasses three pafis. The central paft irrhrmation revealed tliat thc two storied Baro Sarder llari lras
of the mansion was built either during tl-re reign of lsa Khan or at bccn built r-rp in tw'o porlions.'lhere are two courtyarils in this
the pre-Mughal period. It is almost 600 years'old. An analysis of cyc cnticing old palacc. 'l'his recl colored and square shapcd
the construction materials and the salient characteristics of the bLrilding is locatcd in the uriddle of the two mansiorrs. Tlris
construction style reveal it undoubtedly that this part too is an ar- building rcrninds us of uniquc architcctural dcsrgn o{'the Mughal
chaeological work of the first phase of the Mughal period. Exam- regime. It is assumed that probably this nransion was built during
ples of numerous rooms of the mansion and its size and shape the period of the twelve feudal lorcls (baiu bhtr.vian).

54
 The present major gate of the Sarder Bari is built from within side of the ground floor: B, number of rooms at western sicle of
an archway which is relatively low and decoratecl with the broken the ground floor: B, stairs at the eastern side: 1, stairs at western
pieces of ceramjc clay. The royal lront side of this tchaparo side: l, stajrs at the northern side: 1, room at ground floor of the
Bhawan is located besides the cemented slopes of the pond at nofthern side: 9, rooms at second floor of the norlhern side: 9.
west. Stalue of two horse riders on two horses still stand there total number of rooms at the second parl: 50. Stairs at second
bearing the rnark of the earlier pomp and grandeurs of this part of the mansion: 3, number of roorns at the extended side: 3.
mansion. This memorable souvenir is introducing the ancient Number of stairs while climbing upwards: l, open corridor: I .

capital city of Bengal to everybody.

Special measures have been undeflal<en, af,ter carryinig
research work over one year. lor renovation of the walls and
bottoms/abysses of the rooms, finishing work of the floors,
decoration of ceramic clay, replacement of the iron bars under
I
the wooden platfbnns, annexation of the doors and windows of
the old royal lrransions. original gate. glass ceilings. insertion of
marble stones in the floors, restoration of the banks of the pond
at both the east and west side of the mansion, introducing the
drainage system and showcasing the adjustable furniture and
Mansion wrapped in mem,oirs in the l{i,storical Sonargaon
utensils with this royal nransion"
Total size of this widely discussed mansion is 27,400 square
Baro Sarder Bari at a glance feet. According to the restoration drawing, total number of rooms
Front side oJ'the Sarder Bari : Major gate: l, verandahs at the at ground floor of the Sarder Bari is 47. Number of rooms in the
ground floor: 4, verandahs at the first floor: 3, verandas facing first floor is 38" Sum total of the rooms is 85. Rooms of different
outwards at grouncl floor: l, open pavilion: 1, rooms at the height are 23 in number" Number of stairs is 6, number of
ground floor: 7, verandah at first floor: 1, rooms: 7, rooms at elevator is l, number of venetian blind door is around 49,
front side of the mansion: 14. number o{'venetian blind windows (small or large whatever) is
Pre-Mughal period : Rooms at ground floor: 9, rooms at first approximately 168, number of fixed window glasses is around
floor: 9, number of rooms at the pre-Mughal period portion of 18. There is apond at eastem side of the SarderBari. There are
the mansion: lB, stairs: 1, rooms at the extendetl part of the three cemented slopes (ghats) of the pond. A brick wall has been
eastern side: 2, Pavilion: l. It has been converted into a erected to cover the entire westem side of the pond to control
kitchenette and a coffee shop. It can be expected that erosion of the bank of the pond. There is also another pond at
entertainment for the VVIP and VIP guests will he aranged here. this side with three cemented slopes.
Mughal part : Number of the verandahs at second parl of the Dr. Abu Sayeed M Ahmed, Director of the Baro Sarder Bari
I

mansion: 4, open pavilions: 1, number of the rooms at eastem Restoration Project, said: "The restoration and extension work by

55
merging three parls of the Bara Sarder Bari was first operated at It is l<nown fioru the inscription on lront side of this
last phase of the nineteenth century. Some decoration works have residential mansion that it was first reconstructcd in l30ti
been caried out in this 600 years old lchopora mansion as per Bengali ycar (Srr Sri Ont Ciopinuth ./eu- this insu'iption iu
the wishes of the present owner of the mansion." Bengali indicatcs the devotion of the owner to f {indtr clcily l.orrl
:,
Sri Krishna as Ciopinath is onc of 108 narnes ol Lonl l.,rislrnrr)
and then in 1330 Bengali ycar again. Evidencc ol'tlre secorrtl
phase constructiotr in 1330 can bc supported fionr tlre irrstripl iorr
after completion of thc rcnovation work. Inscription ltlir'r scr'orrtl
phase construction rcarls as firllows: "Sri Sri Yttklu (iol,irtrrtlt .lt rr
r Sri Sri ()halun Bhtrt'.ttr- Wo rcly on the footstcps ol'lortl Srr
Krishna- devotee Bashinalh Saha Sarcler- 1330 llcngrrli yr';rr
ffiffiffi
Ichapara Bhaban."
uffi ffi: nffi
***k*d$+.a
Alier two clecadcs ol' rn-v working experiencc lrs llrt' l'ulrlrr
Relations Oficer of []arrglatlcsh Foll< Arls and C'r'llls l orrntl:rlrorr
ancl long discussiou rvillr all nry scniors. I havc ( ()nr( l() ll)('
crttrclusiot.t that the [3cnglli t'ulr:nclar ycars l30ll anrl I i io rrt'rr'
inscribecl as rcconstnrc:tion ycars on the rnansiorr's rr;rll rrr tlrt'
rcspc:ctivc years 190 I antl l92l of thc Grcgorian crrlt'rrtl:rr
[]alo Sardet'Bari is cxpcclcd to ctlcrgc as lr glirrrrrr, ,'r,rrrrplt'
rll' tltc historical archacological u,ork aftcr its r.cslor;rlr( )r \\ { )r l\
gc:1s completed throrrglr linancial assistance nl' tlrr' \',rr1,, \1 ,,,,
('orporatiott of South I(orca. Curious tourists untl r r:rrl,rr', lr()nr
hontc and abroad tltronging at Sonargaon will bc lrblt't,.lr..r'r\r'
thc mind blowing arcl'rilcctural beauty of this nllrrsr,,rr u lur lr
conrpriscs Mr"rghtrl architcctural clesign, architcclrrrrrl rlr':;r,rr ol
thc cra of twelve chicftains (btrrut bhuviun). llnlislr t,,l,rrr;rl
architecturai design ancl Hindrr architectural designs l lrt' lorrrisls
will thus be able to satisly thcir thirst f'or viewiug llrt' irrlrrrrrilrlc
heritage of Sonargaon. The restoration project gcntrirrt'lv rrinrs lrt
showcasing the royal liltstylc of this mansion throrrglr rt'r,ivir,'rrl
ol its in1'ra-structure arnc'l the traclitional architcctrrrll tlcsrgrr ol'tlrc
Artistic worlc oJ the coruidor design in Baro Sarderbart capital city of ancienl Bengal.

56
 Mr. Kihak Sung, Chairperson ofYoung Wan Corporation and September of 2015 (12 Ashwin 1422Bangabda). Mr. Kwak Sam
CEO of Korea EPZ, while being asked about the restoration JU, the Honourable Charge De Affairs of the South Korean
project, opined: "This project will involve substantial research Embassy, led the delegation comprising of the following
and analysis to bring back the restoration work of the Baro members:
Sarder Bari as much as possible to its original beauty and Mr. Kim Choon Jin, Chairman, Health andWelfare Committee,
splendor."
Mr. Park Minsoo, Member of Agriculture, Food, Rural Affairs,
It is our profor"rnd asseftion that a visit to the yard of Baro Oceans and Fisheries Committee,
Sarder Bari will cnable one to have the feelings of being in a
Mr. Choi Dong Ic, Member, Health and Welfare Committee,
long historical canvas liun Mughal regime to British colonial
Mr. Kim SungYeon, Secretary General of ICAPP,
reginrc. []aro Surrlcr- I]ari was built by a businessman named
Mr. Park Li Nam, Staff Member of National Assembly,
Aishwarya l(rurta Sirllr Sarcler. Efforts were made to comprise
the architcclrrlirl IL'alrrlcs of the Sultani era, Mughal period and Ms. Welsoon Kim, Second Secretary of the Korean Embassy.
finally the llritish pcriocl. Since then this mansion has been
known as Buto ,\trtlL't' lJuri. The mansion is built of small and
tiny, latticed bricl<s. yiu'rls surrounded by verandahs, triangle
shaped upper walls rrrrtl oclagonal pillars at bottom. Refined
omamentations irt clrc:lr wirll now stand as witness of history
under the debris ol' lirrrc und the brick-dust of the walls. Today
the mansion is nanrctl rs llirro Sarder Bari in course of time.
Young Wan ('or'porirtion, a Korea based Multi National
Corporation (MN('). is rruw working to revive the priceless
treasure of history. A rrcw bridge will be built within our
traditional herillgc arrtl Ihc younger generation. Simultaneously
the royal door will bcr opcu Lo the tourists from home and abroad
to represent tlris c:cnlcr ol'clitc tradition and culture.

Visit by livc Honourzrble MPs of the South Korean Core organizer of the occasion was Mr. Jahangir Sadat, President of
Parliament to hislorical Bara Sarderbari Korean EPZ in Bangladesh and former Ambassador. Poet Rabindra
A llvc membors' tlclcgation from South Korea visited the Gope, Director of the Foundation, is showing the advancement of work
hislorical lJara Saltlcrbari restoration work under the auspices of to the delegation team. Architect Mohammad Sarwar Hossain of the
llrc lllrrglaclcsh lrolk Arts and Crafts Foundation on 27t1' Project, was present among others.

51
Isa Khan Masnad-E-Ala lsa Khan was born on August 18 of 1529 A.D. in
Sonargaon and Isa Khan are reciprocal to each other. Some Afghanistan. "His father's name was Kalidas Gajdani; it seems
porlion of it is history some are legends and the rest is still a fi'om the papers of the civil government and the accounts of Dr.
fountain of wonder to the historians. The successful role Isa Wise that Kalidas Ga.idani changed his ancestral faith and
Khan played in preserving the Independence of Bengal against accepted Islam. It is reportedly mentioned that he became
the aggression of the Mughal imperialism has tuined him into a convinced of the supremacy of Islam as a faith fiorn the
much remembered and revered person. Isa Khan, chief of the interpretations of the court members of the contemporary
twelve feudal lords of Bengal, had three capital cities: Katrabhu, Muslim king of Afghanistan and got converted. But when it is
Sonargaon and Junglebari. Sonargaon is one of the most being proved from every corner that Gajdani married a Muslim
perlinent capital cities. princess then it can be assumed that love for the princess was the
cause of his conversion. Prior to his conversion, Gajdani was a
devout Hindu who earned the tile "Gajdani (one who gitts
elephants)" by gifting an elephant made of gold to a Brahmin
every day (the gold elephants, however, used to be made in tt
miniscule form). It is hard to believe that such a devout Hilrdu
will change his faith hearing upon the interpretation of Islam.
Rather being amorous for the princess seems more acccptable
anil practical reason behind his conversion."l5
Since after the death of Gajdani Isa Khan was raisecl up by
his uncle Kutubuddin Khan. After his elder brother's clcalh, he
came to Sarail of Bengal. He obtained zemindari (vast land
ownership) in 1564 A.D. at the mere age of 35. He got it as thc
feudal agent of the Karrani rulers in the Sonargaon and
Maheshwardi parganahs. He had to pay gold coins three timcs
more as a foreigner to get the zemindari. He eamed the Masad-
E-Ala title in 1575 A.D. in retum of his service to Daud Khan.
He was elected as leader of the 'twelve chieftains' of Bengal by
purchasing all the parghanas of Bengal in 1575 A.D. It was
during the reign of King Todormal. He transformed his f'er'rdal
estates of Sonargaon and Maheshwari to a sovereign kingdom.
His kingdom comprised of today's broader Dhaka, Mymensingh
'5 Purba Banga: Mymensingh-Geetika, Sri Dinesh Chandra Sen R.oy Bahadur,
Isa Khan Masnad-E-Ala B.A., DLit, page no. 40.

58
and part of the Comilla district. Probably his kingdom extended
to broader Ragnpur, Bogra and even some por-tion of the Pabna
district. He established his temporary capital in the Sarail in
1580 A.D. and transformed his capital city from Sarail to
Sonargaon in I581 A.D. Isa Khan married princess
Swarnamoyee, daughter to King Chand Roy of Sri Pur
(Bilaarnpur) and sister to Kedar Roy. Later Swarlamoyee was
converted to Islam and she was named Sona Bibi. Isa Khan
defeated Man Singh, General of Akbar the Great in 1597 A.D.
and thus preserved the Independence of Bengal. He did sow the
seed of independence of Bengal. His courage, war strategies.
leadership and capacity, heroism, patriotism and other things
deserve compliments. I{e was engaged in warfare for 53 years of
his life. He fell sick atler going to the Bakterpur foft irr the Mosque built hv Isa Khan at Jtrnglebari of Kishoreganj
Maheshwardi parganah. Finally he died on September 17 of
1s99;',

Cemeterlt of Isa Khan in the Bakterpur village ol Kaliganj upazilla,

Part ofJunglebari of Isa Khan Gazipur

59
 l

Besides, Mohammad Rafiqul Haque Akhand has written in his

book entitled Struggle of Independence by Marjubane Bhati
(zemindar of the bhati area; bhati area means the land of ebb)
Isha Khan, "Mughal emperor Jalal Uddin Mohammad Akbar
ascended in the throne in 1556 A.D. Though a vast territory of
almost all the subas (suba meaning a particular administrative
territory during the Mughal regime) of India came under the
auspices of Mughal rule, the entire temitory of Suba Bangla was
yet to be obtained. During that period more than twelve
chieftains/feudal lords used to rule their own territories as
independent feudal lords. This parlicular cluster of the feudal
lords is celebrated as "Baro Bhuyian" in the annals of history. Isa
Khan Masnad-E-Ala was the leader of these chieftains. He used
to rule the administration of the area from Sonargaon to
Junglebari and Sarail to Rangpur.
Isa Khan Masnad-E-Ala was the king of the ebb land region.
Minister of Emperor Akbar's royal court cum author Abul Fazal
has mentioned Isa Khan as the "mag'uban-e-bhati" or ruler of the
bhati (ebb land) region. Accounts of European traveler Ralph
Fitch depict Isa Klan as the "King of the kings in Bengal."16
Historian Abul Fazal, in his book Ain-E-Akbari, has mentioned
Isa Khan as a "sovereign ruler" and remarked: "Isa Khan,
Zamindar of Bhati spent his time in dissimulation. . .Isa acquired
fame by his ripe judgment and deliberateness and made the 12
Zamindars of Bengal subject to himself. Out of foresight and
cautiousness, he refrained from waiting upon the ruler of
Bengal, though he rendered selice to him and sent him presents.
From a distance, he made use of submissive language.
(Akbarnamah, III, p. 647 )."
16
Prashanti, Shastha Pratistha Barshiki Smaranika 2012 Isa Khan Foundation
(6th Foundation Anniversary souvenir 2012), Isa Khan Foundation. Canons used by Isa Khan

60
 Ralph Fitch, while analyzing Isa Khan's relationship with
Sonargaon, has opined: "They be all here about rebels against
their king Zebaldin Echeber (Jalaluddin Akbar). For here are so
many rivers and islands that they flee from one to
another...whereby his horsemen cannot prevail against
them...Sinnergan (Sonargaon) is a town six leagues (i.e., 18
Stone inscription by Nusrat Shah in 929 Hiiri. This inscription on
touchstone is the be,st resource of the Sultani dynasty. It has preserved miles) from Serrepore (Sripur)...The chief king of all these
the contintrity oJ the golden history ofSonargaon. countries is called Isacan (Isa Khan and he is chief of all other
krrgs) [-roarnal o/'the Asiatic Society of Bengal, Calcutta 1904, p.
t/Ll 611.

"fN !T Khas Nagar Dighi (large pond)

A wide number of marsh lands and water bodies are scattered all

),"t over Bangladesh. Some of them are thousand years old. Many of
these ponds or water bodies involve some legends or chronicles,
Sarker SriYukta Isa Khun L4usnaddali san Hajar 1002 stories known or unknown.
Olfici.al language o/ lhc lndiun sub-continent was Persictn and Hijri san
Khas Nagar dighi is a wide pond located at the Dighir Par
was on use. The first Rattutli itr,s'tt'ilttion on Isa Khan's canon evidences
his rebel mind.
Mahalla (neighbourhood) at southern side of the Bangladesh folk
Art & Crafts Foundation. World reputed muslin used to be
produced here. It was a vast abode for the experienced and
professional muslin weavers in Sonargaon, the city once famous
for producing muslin. Water of this reservoir, made of alluvial
soil, was crystal clear. The threads of muslin used to be washed
here for making muslin refined and smooth before final
preparation through using chemical procedure. Legends say
around 1500 muslin weaver families used to live in the vicinitv
around the bank ofthe pond.
Abul Fazal's book 'Ain-E-Akbari' depicts a historically
renowned pond entitled "Khas Nagar Dighi." British historian
Taylor has emphas ized a lot on this water body located at 1 .5 km
Engraved coins bearing the names o.f King Dev
Dunt4jrnardctn. south of the Panam city.

6t
 and the clotlts which used to coine via the Asian city of Mosul
were mwslin. Different writers have depicted muslin as
something as too transparent to be distinguished fi'om the
nrorning dew in wet condition. 'Ihe ntuslin was too delicate and
thin that it could easily be passed through a finger ring.

Historical Khas Nagar dighi

Though the water body now no longer retnains in its fomret
position still it contains some chemical ingredients by nature and
this is why it was really very useful for washing muslin. British
imperialists, however, have destroyed our muslin fbrever. Today
muslin exists only in the page of history. Despite extinction of
muslin in the course of time, the weavers of Sonargaon have kept
alive the tradition of Jamdani sari.
Weaving design oJ Mttslin
Muslin Once much celebrated and now extinct Dhokai muslin
There is divergence of opinions regarding the origin and (muslin made in Dhaka) was praised as some fabric "woven by
etymology of the epithet "Mus1in." It is neither a Persian, nor a the celestial nymphs with the thread of moon." Dhaka was
Sanskrit or Bengali word. However, generally the cotton fabric globally reputed for this particular sorl of textile. Muslin was so
made of the finest thread is termed as 'ntuslin.' Some people thin, beautiful and high quality that it was often termed in
consider "Muslin" to be originated frorn "Mosul", the ancient various adorable tenls like 'mortting dew,' 'running stream,'
trade center of Iraq. Some opine the inter connectedness of the 'magic of wittd' etc. It was acknowledged as the best quality of
word muslin with masalipattam, the once hear1 quafter of the all the textile products in the world for its relined weaving,
European companies in South India. Again many people view unique transparency attd skilled embroidery. Finest cloths
that the fabric which the Europeans used to import from N{osul

62
 prepared by the higher technologies of Great Britain could not that Banga was enriched in her culture and heritage even in that
compete with mtrslin. period. It means that Rengal's fame since 2500 years back
basically had been built on the basis of refined muslin. Cotton
i

A local historian has written that the selling and purchasing

of muslin used to take place in Swavarnagram since the very required for the production of muslin used to be grown in
ancient days. It can be logically said that today's Sonargaon had Sonargaon or Dhaka region.
been a reputed place for muslin since the very ancient days. When Huen Tsang ar-rived in this great land in 638 A.D., then
Sonargaon was much acclaimed as an ancient port. Despite the this country was divided into five "mandals" or regions namely:
division of opinions between the historians many have agreed Kalinga (Orissa), Karna Suvarna (Rarh), Pundrabardhan
that probably the Gange Bandar was located very close to (Gaurah), Tamralipti (Sukhkha) and Sa matat. The lone region
Swavamagram. except those aforementioned four ones (Karinga, Karna Suvama,
Pundrabardhan and Tamralipti) is Samatat. Pundrabardhan,
however, is also indicated as North Bengal. ln that case only one
name is appropriate for East and South Bengal and that name is
Samatat.It was so at least in the time of Huen Tsang. The very
Sonargaon of our discussion cannot be included in any of the
four places except Samatat. Sonargaon had been part of
SAMATAI around 1500 years ago during the time of Huen
Tsang. In fact the name Sonargaon is not too ancient. It derives
fiom the name Swavarxagram. It was mentioned earlier that
some local historian have termed Swavarnagram as an "ancient
habitat." Br"rt he did not elaborate on how much ancient this place
is! Most of the mummies used to be covered in muslin at end of
the I 81h royal dynasty of Egypt in 1462 B.C. It is historically true
that Bangladesh is the bifih place of muslin. It is assumed that
those muslin were woven in Bengal. Places like Kapasia,
Sonargaon and Dhaka are the oldest place of muslin weaving.
A woman. in Dhaka cl.ad inJilte Bengnli nuslin, I Bth-centu Generally Sonargaon, Dhaka, Junglebari, Kapasia are recognized
Wikipedia : Commons has nrcdict reloted to Muslin dresses. as centres of best muslin weaving. So we have no hesitation in
Kautilya, in second chapter of his book ARTHASHASTRA, saying that Sonargaon had been a 3500 years old habitat.
has opined in the 4th century B.C" that the 'Dulcul' (refined cloth) Because refined muslin used to be produced in Sonargaon or in
made in Bengal had been white and refined. So it can be infer:red the areas rmder the jurisdiction of Sonargaon namely Kapasia.

63
Dhaka, Bajitpur, Kanchpur, Junglebari, Sidhdhirganj and others. cannot be equivalent to the cotton grown in Dhaka and cannot be
Sateyndra Narh Dutl. in one of his poems. wrore: "Banglar equal in quality." British resident J.Bebb has written that the
muslin/Bogdad Rone Chin/Kanchan taulei kinten ekdin lOnce threads of Bengal and particularly of Dhaka was better than
Baghdad Rome China used to purchase muslin in gold)." threads produced in any part of the world. Refined and beautiful
Satyendra Nath Dutt, however, did not mention that how many cloth producers from this thread thought that probably the
centuries ago those great civilizations used to purchse our threads of Surat was the best. But actually the threads of Surat
muslin? That is in fact even not possible to mention in poems. and northern India was not appropriate for production of muslin.
Because history and poems can never be the same. But very This muslin used to be woven only with the help of threads
soothing and exquisite form of muslin used to be produced in this prepared from "Futi" cotton of Bengal.
1,960 square miles area suffounded by the rivers Padma, Meghna Muslin of Bengal was world reputed. Dhaka was the centre
and Brahmaputra. This is historically true. There is reference of of this refined industry and huge amount of muslin used to be
muslin in the accounls o[ Megasthenis (approximarely 302 B.C.). exported overseas from here. Our muslin used to be exporled to
Historiain Plini has also mentioned of musliz in his writings. Iraq, Arabia, Myanmer, Malakka and Sumatra. There was huge
Muslin has been mentioned as 'Arabic" word in the Samsad demand for very refined muslin in Europe. It could be so refined
Bengali dictionary. Muslin means very refined sort of cloth. But lhat 20 gauges of muslin could be taken into one little pot. The
it's not an Arabic word. We don't find this particular word in weaving technique of muslin became the wonder of Europe.
"Persian-Arabic Element in Bengali, A Mussalmani Bengali- According to historian Barnear, "There are many precious
English Dictionary." This word is not inserted in William Kerry's items except rice and sugar which can attract the foreigner
"Dictionary of Bengali Language" too. "Muslin" is defined in tourists. For example, too much cotton and silk is produced here
Samsad Bengali dictionary in the following words: 'A very fine that Bengal can be easily termed asa store house of these two
and soft cotton fabric, muslin. Samsad English-Bengali products. And this epithet applies not only in context of India or
Dictionary defines "Muslin" as: "delicately woven cotton fabric the Mughal Empire but rather in the context of entire Europe.
(F. mousseline<it. Mussolino : the town of mosul). It means the Anyone will be astonished seeing the diversity in weaving crafts
Fersi word "Mussoline" is derived from the Italian word and vastness of amount of the cotton and silk cloths. I take
Mussolino. Later the word has been used also in English. This
'#
wonder in the huge bulk and diversity of white, coloured, coarse
refined cloth was named as "muslin." This refined textile was and refined cloths. Dutch merchants exporl muslin to Japan and
given the name "Muslin" in the British period. Europe. Aparl from the Dutch people, the British, Poftuguese and
James Taylor has said, "Best quality of cotton is produced in native merchants too make business of large profits."
the Dhaka region and I believe that nowhere in the world such "Muslin's reputation was steady and relentless since before
good quality cotton is produced. Cotton grown in other parts of the birth of Christ to eighteenth century. Through analysis of the
India or Mauritania islands or Boborn or anywhere in the world ingredients used in the weaving industry along with other

64
elements uneafther in the excavations, some experls date back to use muslin in the 2nd century B.C. Thus muslin was a very
the history of Bengal as old as 3000 years. Many a number of precious and attractive thing in the Roman empire." According to
historians have opined that we had commercial relationship with Ur, "Muslin appeared to be Seria de veste, a much desirable
the Crete island- the ancient abode of the human civilization. apparel to the aristocrat and fashion conscious royal women."
This incident is thought to be of around 3,000 years ago. Plini narrated: "Women of Rome used to wear such a fine type of
Sonargaon was the best place for cotton. So Sonargaon is an fabric that it was almost impossible to keep guard their shame
ancient habitat of around 3000-3500 years. It is assumed that actually. The Roman women often used to get engaged in
Bhima, the second Pandava of Mahabharata had arrived in competition with each other over use of a particular type of
muslin named Kashida, which had the embroidery of golden and
Langalband (History of Swavamagram, Swarup Chandra Roy).
silver threads."
The word "Langal' is an Austric word. It is a word from pre-
Aryan period. The Aryans had arrived here before around 3000 Muslin is mentioned in the writings by a number of Arab
yearc ago. lntellectuals like Suniti Kumar Chattopadhya have historians like lbn Khurdad-Bay from l0th century. Marco Polo
mentioned the Indian epic Mahabharata to be as old as near too highly praised of this excellently kneaded muslin. Annals of
about 3000 years. So it can be decided that although the Ibn Ba{tuta which offer us the description of sale of 15 gauge
1ong, refined cotton apparel at only 14 taka, is bound to be
Narayanganj township is only 215 years old but a Upazllla
muslin. Chinese Ambassadors visiting the court of Sultan
Sonargaon (Langalband is situated within this Upazilla) is an
Ghyiasuddin Azam Shah has provided detailed description of
ancient habitat of around 3000 years ago.
muslin. They have described six categories of muslin and termed
Sonargaon was knowrr as the most important region for them in different names:
muslin production. Dhaka, Sonargaon, Dhamrai, Titabadi,
A Pi Po: It is such a soft of cloth which was two to three feet
Junglebari, Bajitpur trncl other adjoining, wealthy areas extending
wide and 50 to 60 inches long, coloured in different colours
over the vast habitats across the banks of the rivers like Padma,
and very refined and smooth,
Brahmaputra and Meghna were the most reputed places for
O Man-Che-Ti : It was of eye soothing yellow coloul four
production of muslin. So Sonargaon has been earning riches not
feet in width or more and as long as fifty feet. It was very
only as the centre ol production rather also as a muslin export
tightly woven and strong in texture.
centre since the time immemorial.
O Shah-Na-Kiyeh: Another type of muslin which was three
It is repofted that the mummies of ancient Egypt were used
f'eet wide and 60 feet long.
to be covered in muslin and coloured in indigo, according to the
anecdotes of the historians. Birdwood opined that even Assyria @ Sha-Ta-Aeul: It was of two different measurements. One
and Babylonia were introduced to muslin. Muslin was on vogue was five inches wide and 50 feet long and another was two
in those two great cradles of civilization; people used to wear and half feet wide and four feet long. It had resemblance
them widely. Royely mentioned, "The Greeks were accustomed with Chinese San Sev.

65
 O Ma-Hei-Ma-Li Lamal: It was 20 feet long and four or sorl of muslin in Sonargaon." This particular muslin was widely
more than four feet in width. It had four or five-tenth thick known as Malmal Khas. Malmal khas had beautiful packaging
covering at both the sides and it looked much similar to system. lt used to be polished by the weavers in a befitting
Chinese 'Taolokin.' manner and then got packed by pushing it within the coconut
Much before appreciation of muslin by the westetn tourists, shells with floral embroidery on the shells with golden or silver
Poet Ameer Khasru wrote about muslin in 1411i century, "It was threads. Muslin of Dhaka used to be exporled to middle-east and
too refined and soft that anyone could wrap hundred gauges of Europe in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. A wide
muslin round his head and still then his or her hair could be variety of muslin used to be produced including Kashida,
understood." He, in addition, mentioned: "one piece of this most Tanzeeb, Bafta, Azizollah, Duriyu, Jamdani, Bhiti, Charkhana,
refined cloth could easily be held within a nail and again it could Ahroyan, Jhuna, Sarbati, Shobnam etc.
cover the entire world if scattered over." Soft texture, enchanting Unique refinedness and flawless design of muslin could be
beauty and craftsmanship of the muslin weavers were the root assumed from some incredulous f-acts. For example, one pound
causes of the enthralled feelings of the people of Bengal towards muslin thread could be extended over 160 miles; a small bundle
it. When the European tourists first saw muslin, they could not of muslin could be expanded up to two furlongs and sixty
believe it and thought it was "woven by the fairies of the wind." gauges; one piece of muslin could be blown in a whisper; one
piece of Shabnam could not be seen if left over the grasses fbr it
Owing to the rise of demand and appreciation of muslin in the
was too transparent- this is why it was called Shabnam (morning
lndian sub-continent and the outer world, a sharp increase in
dew). Again Abroan (flowing/ruming stream) was so named as
different types of weaving and preparation of muslin in Bengal
took place. Verlhema has divided muslin into several categories
if it was left on water stream, it could not be noticed in cyes for
its transparency. It is oflen told that Emperor Aurangzeb was
(1503-1506 A.D.) namely Bairam, Namone, Lijati, Kanitar
profound admirer of muslin. But once his daughter, princess
Daujar and Sinabaf. Barbosa observed the birth of a very
Zebunnessa appeared before her wearing a muslin in seven
particular type of corpus tree in Bengal by 1516 A.D. In his
rounds and still the emperor scolded her for obscenity.
words: "They grow different types of very refined and pleasant
The root cause behind world reputation of Sonargaon as the
cloths; they weave colourcd textiles fbr their own use and white
muslin producing city was the establishment of a large colony of
cloths for sale in different regiot'rs. These cloths are really very
the muslin weavers and arlists in this city. The weavers had
precious. Besides, a particular type ofrefined cloth recognized as
professional skills in mending muslin. Sonargaon region and
Estravantes is used as orna to cover women's head. Moors,
particularly its Kapasia area were renowned for muslin. Kapasia
Arabs and Persians admire such type of cloth to use it as turban."
was famous for growing the refined form of cotton. Celebrated
Muslin had its great artistic value and worth during the form of muslins like Shabnam and Aberoyan used to be woven
regime of Emperor Akbar (1556-1605). In the words of historian by skilled weavers after making the thread apart from a
Abul Fazal: "The government generally produces a very refined parlicular type of refined cotton.

66
 Sonargaon attained its highest peak in terms of weaving when wom by any Jam (wine) server woman (saki), obtained the
muslin as well as its trade and commerce by 1840 A.D. James name Jamdani. It is generally presumed that Jamdani was born
Taylor has expressed his mixed feelings in this regard: via Iranian influence in the Mughal regime. In ancient days
"Though much advancement has been attained in terms of muslin used to be woven from the threads of a particular type of
textile industry, still muslin is unequivocal regarding cotton and the muslin which used to comprise geometrical design
transparency, beauty and excellence of weaving. It can easily on it was called Jamdanits. I think Jamdani has come in this land
defeat the best produced goods by the textile industry of any being complementary to muslin.
other country."
But imporl of the threads manufactured in factory machines
of the British uprooted and destroyed muslin from this land.
British Imperialists felt no hesitation to bury this handloom
industry of Bengal by degrading our trade and commerce and
oppressing our weavers. It is often narrated that the imperialists
did not hesitate even to chop the fingers of our renowned
weavers.
Thus muslin began facing decline on a gradual basis. East
India Company extended its absolute control after the battle of
the Plassey. Even the trade and commerce of other European
companies came to closure. Thus muslin faced collapse in its
export business. Besides a landslide change was noticed in the
textile industry owing to the industrial revolution in Bretain and
invention of new machineries. Muslin began losing its market. the Rtlk Art and et Rabi.ndrtt Gope
talking to l.he jamadani artisan,s at work in Khidi.rpur vil.lttge,
The traditional muslin of Bengal thus could not survive the
Sonargaon
competition with the cheap priced cloths from Manchester of UK
as it had very low production cost for support from the Arlistic excellence and worth is much more needed than
machineries. technical skill in weaving Jamdani. Its weaving technique is
dependent on memory. This memory again relies on the familial
Jamdani relationship between the master artisan and his assistant or the
We are yet to know any information in details about the origin or teacher-student relationship. Thus the arithmetical equation of
etymology of Jamdani. Principal Tofail Ahmed opines that the the jamdani design remains stored in the memory of the weavers.
Farsi word "Jama" means "cloth" and "dana" means "buti" or In this method the master artisan gets engaged in conversation
flowery pattern on cloth. Again, the word "Jam" indicates a with the disciple and the pupil understands which design the
worlhy sorl of wine while "dani" means cup. Jamdani may 17
Banglapedia, Bangladesh Jatiya Gyankosh, Khanda 4 (Bangladesh National
originate from these two words. May be the muslin of Dhaka, Knowledge Pedia, volume 4), Bangladesh Asiatic Society.

67
master is going to weave. Their particular vocabularies are Price of Jamdani depends upon the weaving style of the sari
basically the formulas of making the design of Jamdani. The and the thread counts. Jamdani is woven in fabulous designs in a
supporting thread is put through the threads within the lines number of villages in the Rupganj, Sidhdhirganj and Sonargaon
drawn on the surface. Thus the weavers begin making the of Narayanganj. A spot visit by this writer to the Jamdani village
Jamdani design. Principal attraction of .Iamdani lies in its stylish and interview of the weavers revealed that it basically owes to
motifs. To summarize. Jamdani is such an aft where mechanical the particular nature and environment that this area is renowned
activities are almost absent. This art mainly relies on experience, for Jamdani. Hats (indigenous form of markets in Bangladesh) to
labour of the skilled artists, merit, intelligence, patience, sale and purchase Jamdani are opened on each Thursday evening
dedication and mindedness.
to the next Friday morning. .Iamdani industry is now an essential
treasure of Bangladesh. It is also admired as part of the world
heritage as acknowledged by LTNESCO. Jamdani is proud for
aesthetical coherence of original motifs.

Grand Trttnk Road

Grand Trunk Road
Emperor Sher Shah constructed a hugely wide highway named
Sarak-E-Azam from Pubjab to Sonargaon in the 16th century to
Jamdani saree introduce horse carried mails and administrative convenience.

68
This historically acclaimed road is named Grand Trunk Road. A Memory of Victory
historian wrote: "Emperor Sher Shah created such a terror in the The most glorious and valiant episode of our national life is the
hearts of the hooligans that people could sleep peacefully on the Liberation War of 7971.. h is in remembrance of the great heroes
roads at night. He built a highway as long as 3,000 miles. He, in of Sonargaon in 1971 that a mausoleum was built in front of the
addition, provided a caravanserai at interval of every 20 miles historical Pithawalir Poo1. The names of the maftyr freedom
and a well after each two miles. Also a number of mosques were fighters in the war are:
built at both sides of the road. He also planted a number of trees 1. Maftyr Momin Bhuyian, 2. Martyr Abdul Majid, 3. Martyr
to offer shadow and fruits for the travelers. Ramjan ALi, 4. Marlyr Shamsuzzaman Maznu, 5. Martyr Nur
Hossain, 6. Martyr Akter Hossain, 7. Marlyr Nurul Islam, B.
Pool of the Pithawali Marlyr Altaf Hossain, 9. Martyr Tofazzel Hossain, 10. Mafiyr
This pool is situated in front of the principal gate of the Abdul Malek, 11. Martyr Mostafa Mia, 12. MarlyrAli Akbar, 13.
Sonargaon Quazi Fazhl Haque Women's College. It was built Martyr Abdul Malek, 14. Marlyr Badntzzaman, 15. Martyr Afaz
either during the reign of Sher Shah or during the first phase of Uddin, 16. Martyr Siddique Mian, 17. Marlyr Mahbub Alam.
British colonial period. Some think it was build at the last phase
of Isa Khan's reign and first phase of British Empire. It was built
for the convenience of internal movement. It is considered as an
artifact ofaround 400 years ago.

Pool of the Pithawali Memory oJ Victory

69
 I
Barimajlish Jame mosque however, differ in their opinions regarding the antiquity of
Barimajlish Jame mosque is situated at /, kilometer west of the history of Mograpara and Panam. This is why the exact time
Mograpara intersection adjacent to the Dhaka-Chittagong period of the antiquity of Mograpara could not be assessed. It
highway. An Eidgah maidan (field to offer prayers on the can be considered from the geographical environment and
morning of Eid) has been built at west side of the mosque. It can location of both Mograpara and Panam city that the history of
be known from the inscription on the mosque wall that when these two sites dates back to several thousands years back.

Sujauddaula was the Dewan (Governor) of Bengal, then this It still needs lots of research to know that exactly which
mosque was built in 1102 hijri. Renovation and extension work region of this Swavarnabhumi (land of gold) was built as the
4,
of this celebrated mosque has been done in different times. Once "heaft" of the capital city and for which palticular reasons the
this mosque contained only one dome but now it has three ancient Sultans, kings or feudal lords had chosen this island
domes. Minaret has been added in all four corners of the surrounded by the rivers Meghna, Shitlakhya and Brahmaputra
mosque. This is why the original look of the mosque has been or the exact radius of the capital city, urban areas and port of the
lost. Sonargaon region.
The region Sonargaon had been reputed for abundance of
fertile, alluvial soil and natural protection by the surrounding
rivers. Moreover, the importance of Sonargaon area was
immense since the ancient ages for its internal and extemal trade
and business connection wih rest of the world.
It becomes evident from the accounts of world reputed
travelers like lbn Battuta, Fa Hien, Ma Huan and Ralph Fitch
that the reputation of Sonargaon port in terrns of production,
marketing and export of the agricultural products gradually did
spread over from the Indian sub-continent to the external world.
A wealthy and rich class grew centering the Panam and
Mograpara region. Ibn Batuta visited Sonargaon in the thirteenth
century (1338 A.D.) He saw a sea ship in Sonargaon port
Inscriptions on B arimaj lish mosque passaging to Java, Indonesia. This is why we can say that
Sonargaon naval port emerged centering Mograpara,
Mograpara Udhdhabganj, Vaidya er Bazar, Companyganj and Kabilganj.
It is presumed that Mograpara and Panam city were the centre Anybody can understand that the river Menikhali in front of !

place of Sonargaon, the ancient capital of Bengal. Historians, Mograpara is part of a large. ancient river. Besides, one can

10
witness the shiva linga (phallus of Hindu Lord Shiva), pillars of 1484. Probably the Sultans used to offer prayers in this royal
temple and archways in the Mograpara Durgahbari (sufi shrine). mosque within Mograpara Durgabari complex. Though today
Ancient slopes of pond, stone phallus of Lord Shiva and none will find any royal grandeur if he or she visits the Durgabari
several stone pillars were found while excavating a pond adjacent complex, still it can be assumed that once it was a centre place of
to the homestead behind the Yousufganj mosque besides the golden history and tradition of our ancient capital. Here
Mograpara. It is estimated that there had been the existence of the sleeps the enriched history and tradition of our land over
Hindu kings in Mograpara. Later probably the Muslim Sultans thousands of years. The tombs of the Durgabari complex and the
had established their capital city in the capital city of the Hindu piece of stone gotten here reminds us that once upon a time they
kings. were great devotees and hence people do still recall them even
The Mograpara school near the Durga Sharif is known as after 600 years. This is why it is said: "Shuno hey manush
Golabari vrllage. Probably this Golabari village was marked as bhqi/sabur upar e manusll saea, tahar upare nai (Listen- ye
the "gola ghar (store house)" of the granary of the capital city human being/man is the supreme and nothing is above him)."
Sonargaon as the revenues for the capital city were collected in Today it is very unfortunate but true that the continuity of history
form of grains. The Mograpara Durgabari, measuring about I B of ancient capital city of Bengal no more can be found in the
bighas of land, was the core administrative centre point of the Durgabari or Mograpara.
ancient capital Sonargaon. Four ponds within this Durgabari and There is a 600 years old frail and dilapidated palace named
a canal surrounclcd by moat at all four colxers of the mansion are 'Andharkotha" besides the Mograpara Durgabari complex. The
added to the ancient canal of Sonargaon (located at northerl side expefts opine that this palace, made of fine and latticed bricks
of Mograpra and linked with the back side of Mograpara) and the with the base of lime and brickbats, can be even older than 600
canal of Bara Shahar village at western side of Sonargaon which years. A cell does still exist under the ground of this palace. The
includes the forl of Damdama. One of the salient characteristics believers used to sit in meditation in this underground cell.
of Durgabari is that in which part of this ancient structure the According to another source this cell probably had been built for
excavation work may be carried out, some ancient wall or cells meditation of the peers and fakirs or as prison of the Sultani
can be found- elderly generation of the vicinity think so. regime. The mansion of old lslamic Academy of Mograpara
The naobat khana, the welcoming centre of Mograpara, still existed here. Relics of the building of old Islamic Academy with
survives as a mansion of the Sultani period. The Shahi mosque of a recess or niche, founded by Shayakh Sharfuddin Abu Tawama
Durgabari is a unique architectural creation, founded during the is close to this degenerated underground prayer hall. It was
reign of Jalaluddin Fateh Shah. Some Mokarramudaula has built during the reign of Ghiyasuddin Balban, the Sultan of Delhi, that
it. He was the guard of royal vests of Fateh Shah as well as renowned Islamic scholar Shayakh Sharfuddin Abu Tawama of
administrator cum army-in-charge of Iklim Moajjambad and the the sub-continent did come to Sonargaon from Delhi rn l27B
Lau region of Sylhet. He founded this much reputed mosque in A.D. Here he got introduced with King Roy Danuj. Probably the

11
Sonargaon region came under the control of Sultan Balban after Naobatkhana (Guardhouse)
the victory of Ghiyasuddin Balban. Nqobat was a round shaped large drum or kettle drum which
used to be beaten up for making a parlicular sound at door of the
kings and other elites everyday by morning and evening. Khana
indicates the place or stage wherefrom the drum players used to
beat the kettle drum in praise of the kings. Today nahbatkhana in
the photograph bellow is a degenerating old building situated
besides the majar at westetn side of the Mograpara High School.
It is called nohbatkhano, or toran (archway/gateway). Professor
A.H.Dani has mentioned that the travelers from far and abroad
were advised about the nearest shelters from this nahbatkhana on
each morning and evening along with the beating of this kettle
drum. During the Mr"rslim reign it was a custom that the
nahbatkhana (guardhor"rse) will be situated in front of the royal
palace. Also it was the custornary practice to play upon musical
instruments in morning from the nahbatkhana. A spot visit to the
place revealed that recently a gate has been built outside the
naobatkhana.

Llnderground prayer room bui.lt tluring the Sultani period, Mograpara.

Mograpara that there are the tombs of Shayakh
It is in this
Sharfuddin Abu Tawatna, Ibrahirn Danishmand, Sheikh
Muhammad Yousuf and Sheikh Mahmood who heralded here in
13th century.

Travellers and tourists from home and abroad must go

Mograpara to get the whereabouts of the cultural heritage,
archaeological evidences besides its scenic beauty and
particularly the linkages of the ancient capital city of Bengal
during the Sultani period. The cultural tradition of Mograpara,
the archaeological centre of the medieval age and examples of
Sultani Bengal are almost on the verge of extinction.
N0obatkhctnct

12
Durgahbari Complex medieval age at northern side of the Durgahbari. There are six
The complex of medieval age within the premises of the cemented graveyards in a row in the cemetery at eastern side of
Mograpra nahbatkhana cemetery is called as Durgahbari the Durgahbari and the cemetery is surrounded by high walls.
complex. It imbues hearl wrenching feelings within the visitors. There is a pond at southern side of the cemetery. There is enough
There are three mausoleums along with a number of unknown, open space in middle of the pond, durgahbari and the mosque.
cement cast graves within the premises sur:rounded by high Tourists from home and abroad will have to go Mograpra for
walls. Of them, Ibrahim Danishmand tomb stands at west, having the real search of the cultural tradition, archeological
Sheikh Muhmmad Yousuf tomb stands at middle and Yousuf's evidences parlicularly of the Sultani dynasty in Bengal besides
son Sheikh Mahmud's tomb is located at the eastern side. S.M. enjoying the natural beauty of Sonargaon. Mograpara, as earlier
Taifoor gives the names of the four persons buried in this mentioned, is located near the Dhaka-Chittagong highway.
Mograpara bears the torch of thousand years' long history and
complex. They are: Ibrahim Danishmand, Shah Muhammad Ahle
tradition. Cultural tradition and archaeological evidences of the
Ilm, Syed MuhammadYousuf and his wife Ayesha Banu.
Sultani Bangla are on the verge of extinction. Everyone should
come lorward to preserue it.

Mograpara Fateh Shah mosque

This mosquc was built in Mograpara during the reign of Sultan
Jalal Uddin Fate Shah. Stone inscription of the mosque tells us
that it was reconstructed in ll12 hijri or 1700-01 A.D. There is
the debris of several houses behind the garden of the old mosque.
Once there had been a treasury house here which is probably
under the piles of earth now, according to the legends of this
locality.
There was a black stone on the wall of the entry passage to
the mosque. Local people believed in the practice of covering the
wall with layers of lime which will return them their lost
A piece of stone in the Durgahbari premise,s
valuables. This is why people used to cover the wall with thick
However, Mograpara Durbar Sharif comprises tombs of layers of lime from their simple belief. As a result the wall
Hazrat Sheik Sharf-Uddin Ahu Tawanrah (.RA) and numerous became full of the layers of lime. Later the layers of lime were
graves of others, ancient pond, cemented pond slopes, stone cleared and a stone inscription of 1472 was found. It was built
inscriptions, terracotta examples accompanied by the adjacent and inscribed by Mobarak Uddula, the ward of Jalal Uddin Abul
Jameya and Mana Shah Durvish cemetery. There is a mosque of Mojaffar. He was the arrny commander of Muazzamabad.

13
Ibrahim Danishmand's tomb born in an educated and respectable family of Bukhara. He
A khankah is situated at slightly
northwards from the reached Delhi during the reign of Sultan Ghiyasuddin Balban
naobatkhana atMograpara. Besides the khankah (seat of a saint) (1266-1228). From Delhi he did come to Sonargaon with peer
there are four successive cemented graves with the north wall at Abu Tawama. Here he established a "Jameya" or Islamic
the place surrounded by the walls. Of them, the khankah (seat of University and a khanka (outer house/seat of a saint).
a saint) and grave of Ibrahim Danishmand, the renowned Sufi In words of M.A.Rahim. it was Sheikh Abu Tawama who is
saint is really attractive. It is presumed that he came to the helmsman of the real pride of East Bengal. His erLrdition and
Bangladesh from Persia for preaching Islam. Ibrahim spiritual success attracted a number of ascetics and wise people.
Danishmand came to Bengal during the reign of Sultan Hossain
Hazrat Makhdum Sheikh Sharfuddin Yahya Maneri was one of
Shah. S.M.Taifoor, in his book Glimpses of Old Dhaka, has
them. He came to Sonargaon with his teachers. It can be well
mentioned: "There are three tombs, quadrangular in shape, in the
said that the presence of all these famous ascetics inspired
mosque premise. Coffin of Syed Ibrahim Danishmand lies in the
grave at west side. The middle positioned grave is of his practice of lslamic learning and quest for knowledge in
successor Mohammad and the next two graves are of his second Sonargaon, the center of knowledge and learning.
son Yousuf and his wife Ayesha Banu."l8

Tombs of Sheikh Muhammad Yousuf and Sheikh

Mahmud
Visible tomb and khankoh (seat of a saint) of Sheikh Muhammad
Yousuf are located at nofihem side of the cemetery of Ibrahim
Danishmand. It is presumed that this great devout of Islam
arrived in Sonargaon from far away Persia to preach Islam.
There are two rectangular tombs of both the father Sheikh
Muhammad Yousuf and his son Sheikh Mahmud. These tombs
are made after the fashion of four sloped huts of Bengal. They
were probably built in 16th century.

Cemetery of Shayakh Sharfuddin Abu Tawama

Sheikh Sharfuddin Abu Tawama is a luminous name and unique
personality in the history of the Muslim intelligentsia. He was

Cemetery cy''Sha1;akh Shar/uddin Abu Tawama

'u S.M. Tuifoor, Glimpses of olcl Dacca, 1952.

74
Darogolla Sheikh Saheb Jame mosque There is a pond with cemented slope att western side of the
Darogolla Sheikh Saheb Jame mosqrre was established at mosque. Owing to the extension of construction work of the
nofthern side of the Nawab Habib Ullah High School. It was mosque, lot many changes have ensued in its former motifs and
constructed in 1136 A.D. It is a one dome mosque. Extension designs. Interviewing the elderly citizens of the vicinity revealed
work has been carried out at eastern side of the mosque to widen that earlier there had been a caravanserai at the north-eastern
corner of the mosque complex in discussion. Meantime,
Mograpara Union Health and Family Welfare Complex have
been built at eastern side of the decaying Darogolla Jame
mosque.

Tomb of Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah

Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah's Tomb is located at Shah Chillapur of
Sonargaon. It is the earliest existing structure of the Sultanate
period in Bangladesh. Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah was the most
reputed Sultan of the Ilias Shahi dynasty. He ascended in the
throne after the murder of Sultan Sikandar Shah in 1393 A.D.
No other Sultan of Bengal was as colorful as him in character.
Darogollah mosqLte
According to the local legends, the Sultan was killed in
conspiracy of the king Ganesha in 1410 A.D. and later buried in
Shahchillapur.
Historian James Wise, as a witness, has narrated the tomb in
the following words: "The mausoleum has now fallen to pieces
but formerly it consisted of a ponderous stone, which occupied
the centre, surrounded by pillars about five feet high, these
stones are beautifully carved and the comers of the slabs and the
arabesque tracery are as perfect as the day the workman handled.
The stones are formed of hard, almost black basalt."
Actually this mausoleum is a splendid example of fifteenth
century Islamic architecture. A series of panels are there besides
the tomb. This looks like a shika design hanging from the roof of
an arched window. A.H.Dani, while narrating about the

75
decorative aspect of the tomb, opined: "It is a stone sarcophagi-
tomb and the fine stone sarcophagus consists of a single block of
black basalt forrning a keeled top that is placed on a table of the
same material. The cornice of the table has a line of billet
decoration below a beaded orlament - a pattem very similar to
that of the stone carvings in the Adina mosque. Below this line
there are three series of panels, each decorated with trefoil-
arched niche and a hanging motif of lamp within. This motif
bears similarity with that of the Adina Mosque in pandua and the
goaldi mosque in Sonargaon. The only difference is that here
they are held in double chains, whereas in the mihrab of the
Adina Mosque it is suspended from a single chain. Formerly, at
the head of the tomb stood a sandstone pillar, which carried a
lamp (chiragdan). The style of the design and carvings make this
tomb very close in time to the Adina mosque. "
Gruve oJ'Stiltctn Ghiyctsudtlin Aza.m Shah

Historians have praised Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah highly fbr his

proper administration of justice,
generosity, patronagc o1'
learning and exercise of his poetic potentials. As rccorclcd on
Riyyaus-Saletin, that the sultan while exercising with a bow hit
the son of a widow with an arrow and caused his death. 'l'hc
widow appeared before the Qazi-Ul-Quat or the chiefiLrclgc Qazi
Siraiuddin and brought a charge of murder against tltc Sttltatr.
Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah, being summoned by thc Qazi.
appeared before the coutt like an ordinary accused pcrson.
'l'hc

Qazi did not show any extra sorl of respect or obcclictlcc ttr
Sultan, mentioned the complaint lodged by the widow against
him and stated how he would be punishable by Shari'ah if he
does not satisfy the widow with proper compensation.
Mausoleum of Sultan Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah Accordingly the Sultan made graceful submission to the

16
custodian of law and satisfied the complainant by offering a and a caravanserai in Mecca along with the digging of a fountain
suitable indemnity in accordance with the decree. When the trial to ensure safe drinking water for the inhabitants of Mecca. The
was over the Qazi stood up and greeted the Sultan for his madrasha built in his money was known as "Ghiyasia
veneration for the law. At this the Sultan said, "I must thank Madrasha." It is to maintain the expenditure of the madrasha and
Allah that there is a judge like you in my kingdom!" Then he the caravanserai that two date orchards were purchased with
opened out the knife hidden within his shift and said, "If you did huge money and then they were declared as "Wakf Property
not do this justice for fear of the Sultan, my knife would instantly (Tarikh-e-Makkah, Mufti Qutbuddin)."
pierce your chest." The Qazi smilingly retofted as he stood up
from his seat and brought out a whip from under his seat and
said, "I would have scourge you with this whip if Your Majesty
had not obeyecl the law." This incident conveys the whole spirit
of the administration of GhiyasuddinAzam Shah.
Another thing which endorses Sultan Ghiyasuddin Azam's
immortality in tlie history is his correspondence with the great
Persian poet Hafiz Shiraji and inviting him to visit Bengal.
According to the narrations of Ghulam Husain Salim, author of
the Riyaj-Us-Salatin, Sultan Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah was a
scholar in Arabic and Persian. Once he failed to balance the
meter of a poem at its last line and sent the unfinished couplet to
the great poet Hafiz for completion along with the invitation to
visit Bengal. }{afiz completed the couplet and rather wrote a long
kasida in harmony with the rhythm of the first line composed by
the Sultan. He, in addition, sent another ghazal to the Sultan via of
Grave Qazi Sirajuddin
envoy but politely declined the offer to visit Bengal for such a
long distance. This parlicular poem by Hafrz, compiled in the (Note : The Historlt o/'Bengal, Ed. by J.N.Sarkar vol. II, P. 11:
collection entitled Dewan-e-Ha.fiz, has made the names of Memoirs of Gour and Pandua, M. Abid Ali, New Delhi, 1979. pp
Bangladesh and Sultan Ghiyauddin Azam Shah immortal in the 24-27; 'Gour er ltihas, Rajani Kanta Chakravarty; Vol II, 6l-66,
Muslim world. Vol. I, 1909. Banglar Bir Kali Prasanna Das, Vol. I, 103-110,

The Sultan spent thousands of gold coins to build a madrasha

Kolkata, 1337).

71
Cemetery of five pirs locality that five great preachers of Islam once arrived here.
This cemetery is situated in the Bhagalpur village, a little Once there were hut shaped and brick-made chandeliers straight
westward from the tomb of Sultan Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah. headway of each of the five saints. But researchers failed in
This cemetery is a unique example of the glorious archaeological knowing the names of those five saints. Still the bhakti matabad
heritage of Sonargaon. According to the narration of James Wise, (doctrine of devotion) as introduced by those five saints are on
tombs of all the flve pirs are installed on the same parallel and vogue in Bangladesh. Dr. Abdur Rahim has observed, 'A durgah
built at four feet height from the earth. The river Brahmaputra of Panch Pir exists in Sonargaon. The sailors and boatmen of
used to be flown besides this area in the ancient times. Although East Bengal even now invoke the blessings of Panch Pir along
attempts were made once to cover the tombs with roofs, the name of Pir Badr, which is identified with Badr-al Din Badr-
the pillars have never been made higher than several feet. i-Alam." The mausoleums of these five pirs were built in the lTth
century. There are many brick-made, incomplete pillars besides
the high platform containing the remnants of the five saints. lt
seems that this high platform was basically installed to build
roofs or inserl latticed railings. An identical sacred site is there in
Chittagong which is called "Badre Alam" or "Site for Pir Badr."
The cemetery of the five saints is a place to offer humble respect
by the devotees irrespective of Hindus or Muslims. Many people
come here to take blessings.

Kadam Rasul
In Bangladesh the best known Kadam Rasul is that of
Nabiganj, on the eastern bank of the River Lakhya, opposite
Narayanganj. lt is known lrom the historical sources that Dewan
Monwar Khan, grandson of Isa Khan, was sufllmoned in Dhaka
to obtain the revenues of the subedari in Bengal.
According to Mirza Nathan's Baharistan-i-ghaibi. wrilten
during the early seventeenth century, this footprint was
Cemetety oJ'the five pirs. purchased from Arab merchants by Masum Khan Kabuli, an
Information about exact time frame of construction of these Afghan chief who had rebelled against Emperor Akbar. At that
tombs, biographies of the saints and from which countries they time there was a forlress here. Inside it a shrine was erected in
have arrived here are yet to be collected. Belief prevails in the tlgl AHll777-78 AD by Ghulam Nabi, a landlord of Dhaka. It

78
 Hajiganj fort. Sonakanda fort is one of all the river forls the
Mughals did establish to ensure the safety of the important river
routes that used to function as the communicating channel with
Dhaka.

Sonakanda fort

Kadam Rttsul
is a single-domed structure with a verandah in front. Its
importance can be seen from the two-storey monumental
gateway built in 1220 AH1I805-6 AD by Ghulam Muhammad
Ghulam Nabi's son.

Sonakanda fort
It is a river fort of the Mughals situated in Narayanganj on the
eastern bank of Shitalakshya River. It faces opposite to the
Sonakandafort

19
 The fort apparently has two main parls. One poftion is built Narayanganj on the west bank of the river Shitlakhya. It is a
up with a huge earthen mound and well protected by the fofi unique example of the Mughal cemetery style.
walls. It is rectangular in shape. It is 300 feet long at east-west Bibi Mariam was the beloved daughter of Shaista Khan, the
and 208 feet wide at side. The defensive walls of the for1, made Subedar of Bengal during the Mughal regime. It is to make
of bricks, are 3.5 feet thick and 10 feet and high with immorlal the memoirs of his beloved daughter, that Shayesta
innumberable pores to shot cannons at the enemies. Other part of Khan had erected this mausoleum at last phase of the 17t1'
the fort is also very important which is built at the westerrr side century.
and interior porlion of the fort. All the forl walls are decorated
with shooting provisions and are decorated with morelanes. Bibi Mariam mausoleum
There is an entry gate at the north side of the forl. This fort is
of The central room of this tomb contains a stepped tomb in white
presumed to be founded in the 17tl' century because its
particular architectural style.
marble with floral designs, and a masonry cenotaph of Bibi
Mariam. There is the brick built large tomb of Bibi Mariam in
the central room of the mausoleum. The central mausoleum is a
single domed square building.
There are three vaults at each side ofthe central room ofthe
mausoleum. These vaults are all same sized and enriched with
iron nets. The exterior walls are divided in five arches. These
arches are large in size. This mausoleum with unique
architectural beauty is an attraction for the tourists.

Hajiganj fort
The exact date of Hajiganj fort is uncertain but it may have been
built soon after Subahdar Mir Jumla established the Mughal
capital at Dhaka.
The fort, quadrangular in size, consists of a pantagonal
curtain wall machicolated for muskets with rounded corner
dastions. On the inner side of the curlain wall there is I-22m
Bibi Mariam mausoleum heigh rampart walkway from the base of the curtain wall which
Tomb of Bibi Mariam is itself pierced by several musketry holes. The holes are wider
meant probably for 'gun firing at the pirates proceeding up the
The tomb of Bibi Mariam is situated at Hajiganj locality in

80
 river'. In a corner of the fort enclosure there is a tall free standing Sultani and Mughal period. It was built during the reign of
square column of brick which must have been used for Sultan Jalal Uddin Fateh Shah (1484). This mosque in discussion
,'t
observation and placing guns in the rainy season. is a unique architectural work of the Sultani era.
The mihrab and floor of the mosque is built of black stone
and the dome is made of stone pillars. The cemetery of Baba
Saleh is situated at of the mosque. The area is
eastern side
known as Saleh Nagar right now. He was a recommendable
dervish within the preachers of Islam at Sonargaon. Baba Saleh
died in 1506 A.D.

Langalband
Langalband is an ancient habitat on the banks of the river
Brahmaputra. Each year thousands of devotees embark on the
Hajiganj Jbrt
banks of Brahmaputra. They come to have an auspicious dip into
the river on the occasion of Ashtami (eighth day of either
fortnight of a lunar month) in the month of Chaitra (second
month of summer in the Bengali calendar). Bathing in the river
Brahmaputra during this particular period brings virtue for the
devotees as per Hindu belief. Taking a dip in the river
Brahmaputra during this occasion helps the devotees to satisfy

i '
Lord Brahma and attain redemption of their sins.
"i,

A mlhical tale prevails on this auspicious bathing ritual.

il That goes like: "Many years ago there was a saint named
t, Jamadagni the Noble Heart (Mahamati) who had a very pretty
!ti
wife named Renuka. Renuka had royal lineage. The couple had
Baba Saleh mosque and tomb five sons. Parshuram was youngest of them. Renuka, living in the
Baba Saleh mosque and tomb hut of her hermit husband, once felt strong pang of desire while
The tomb and mosque of Baba Saleh is situated at the pofi area she saw the King of Marlikabarta taking shower with his queen
of Narayanganj. It was a noticeable trade center <luring the in the river. She felt nostalgia of her past life as a queen. The

8l
herrnit became very angry guessing his wife's infatuation with Lake within the Himalayas, prayed for his absolution of the sins
royal life and ordered other sons to kill their mother. But none of after the dip in its holy water. No sooner had he jumped into the
the four sons agreed to kill her. Then the sage ordered his lake water after offering the prayers, he got free of his sins of the
youngest and the most beloved son Parshuram to slay his mother. matricide. With a view to use this divine water of redemption of
He killed his mother with a single blow of his axe. After killing Brahmaputra, Parshuram expressed his will to bring this water
his mother. Parshuram was identified as a homendous sort of stream in the plain land from the mountains. He did bind the axe
sinner on earth. It is believed that the axe, as a token of his in the plaque of his plough and dug a canal with that plaque.
punishment from the heavens, became glued in his hand and he Thus he became successful to bring the holy water stream of the
could not remove it despite lots of frantic effofts. Then his father river Brahmaputra in the plain land.
advised him to visit different sites of pilgrimage for absolution of It was after the passage of a long time and traversing scores
his sins. He then began roaming around from one site of of hills and mountains that Parshuram could make the
pilgrimage to another with repentance of matricide. Brahmaputra stream moving through different habitats and
localities. A fatigued Parshuram ended his journey after coming
besides Langalband. Thus the river Brahmaputra began flowing
in the passage dug by Parshuram with the plaque of his plough.
Since then this area has been named as Langalband. Later il
became a one of the holiest places for the Hindus.
Later Parshuram went to a number of places for pilgrimage
to preach the divine power and magnanimity of the holy
Brahmaputra. But the river Brahmaputra stopped at a point
where the belle river Shitlakhya was flowing. Brahmaputra, the
male form of a river as believed in Hindu mythology, was
entranced at the bewitching beauty of the river Shitlakhya.
Brahmaputra began rushing onwards her with all his valour. The
belle Shitlakhya, being scared, instantly took the form of an old
Sacred bathing at LangaLband
woman and represented herself as Buriganga. Brahmaputra,
It was at that time that God Brahmaputra hided himself as a
seeing this ugly look of Shitlakhya, got disappointed. An angry
lake within the bosom of the Himalayas. By grace of the divinity
Brahmaputra then opened the veil of Shitlakhya and got
that Parshuram could know about the magnanimity of
Brahmaputra. He, being able to find the hidden Brahmaputra overwhelmed again at her real beauty. They then loved each

82
other and the conjoined stream began flowing integrally. station. As known from the engravings of the mosque wall that it
Meanwhile Parshuram returned from his place of pilgrimage was built probably during 1919 A.D. The mosque, however, has
and astonishingly observed that the river Brahmaputra whom he lost its original shape because of the restoration work in 1951
has brought to the plain land for the welfare of the humankind and extension work in 1991. It is known as Maimunnessa Bibi
Wakf Estate.
and whom he wished to establish as the best and the most sacred
river on earth has forgotten his devout and embraced the river
Shitlakhya. An enraged Parshuram cursed both of them. But
Brahmaputra reminded Parshuram about the benefaction he did
to Parshuram and sought forgiveness. Parshuram grew mercy in
him and no longer did curse him. Lord Parshuram, however,
robbed Brahrnaputra off his divine power to offer salvation to the
sinners except only one day in ayeaL Brahmaputra was endowed
with the divine grace to offer redemption to the sinners only one
day a year by Parshuram. It is on the auspicious occasion of
Ashtami tithi that this divine power of the river Brahmaputra is
retrieved to hirn. This is why the ritual of sacred bathing is
observed each year at Langalband.
It is to ease the sacred mass bathing for thousands of men Devvanbagh Shahi Jame mosque
and women that a number of ghats like Raj ghat, Premtola ghat, Mahjampur Shahi Jame mosque
Annapuma ghat, Baradeshwari ghat, Jaykali ghat, Gandhi ghat, Muajjamabad is one of the ancient most Muslim locality of
Pathankali ghat, Kalibari ghat, Sri Ram ghat, Shankar ghat, historical Sonargaon. It is situated in the Mujjampur or
Shikhari ghat, Rakshakali ghat and Kalidaha ghat have been Mahjampur village of Jampur Union, Sonargaon. S.M.Taifur
built. Devotees from far remote places including even India or opines: "Name of this mosque originates from name of Muajjam,
Nepal come here to take part in the occasion. A colorfully a soldier of Sultan Sikander Shah. It was simultaneously a mint
vibrant fair is organized each year to celebrate this occasion. city and a densely populated habitat whose evidence we derive in
this ancient and degenerated six dome mosque. The muhulla
Dewanbagh Shahi Jame mosque (vicinity) of Moajjampur has been mentioned in the Ain-e-
This mosque is located at a place named Dewanbagh, Akbari as a locality under the jurisdiction of Sonargaon which is
Madanpur under the jurisdiction of the Narayanganj port police a principal township in the areas within the river Brahmaputra

83
and Shitlalftya. This mosque was built by Shams Al Din Ahmad
Shah in 833-839 Hijri and 143211433-1435136 A.D. This is why
it is acknowledged as 'Ahmad Shah's mosque." Right now
extension work is being carried at all three corners of the
mosque. Six domes have been installed in the mosque. Of them,
four have been inserted at four sides of two small mihrabs
besides the central mihrab at the western wall within the mosque
and rest two had been installed upon the pillar nade of eight
black stones. It is the ancient ntost mosque of Sonargaon. Floral
motifs of terracotta used in the historical Goaldi mosque can be
witnessed at outside of the western wall of the mosque. Its
architecture, design and decoration procedure and the installation
design of the six domes of the mosque in two rows on its roof
top attract the tourists. A,[ahjampLtr mosqLte old view

Mahjampur mosque old view Dome oJ'the Mahjampur mosque

84
 After obtaining this title, he went on pilgrimage to Mecca on foot
and performed hai. Finally he settled down at the village Baradi
in 1863 and established this Ashram. Shamsuddin Chowdhury
opines: "Lokenath Brqhmachari took his oath in mendicancy at
his adolescence under the guidance of his guru Bhagwan
Ganguli and later Trailanga Nath Swamy became his grzra in his
vow for celibacy. His ashram which is reputed across the sub-
continent was built by the Naga zaminders of Bctrodi."

ofthe
Floral ornam.entatktn Decorated stone pillar in the
mosquewttll m.ihrab
Ashram of Sri Sri Lokenath Brahmachari
This ashram is located at the Baradi village of Sonargaon
upaz117a. Sri Sri Lokenath Brahmachari was a Hindu ascetic. He Ashra.m of Sri Sri Lokenath Brahmachari
was born at the Kachua (or Chakla) village within the
jurisdiction of Barasat of the 24 Parganah district of West The major premises of his spiritual philosophy and education
can be sumnarized as follows:
Bengal, Irrclia. I-le was borrr in 173011731 A.D. His father's name
Brahma (God) exists in every living and non-living being of
was llarn Kanai Ghoshal and mother's name was Kamla Devi.
the world,
This celebrated hermit took his devout for austerity and Soul is immortal and indestructible,
cclibacy as a disciple from Bhawan Ganguly, a devotee of Self-realization, devotion and focused performance of yoga
Kalighat. After completion of 25 years long vow of mendicancy, is the way to salvation,
he attained sidhdhi and yogabibhuti after deep exercise of yoga. Doing good for karma and lives is the best religion of
llis guru (teacher) Bhawan Ganguli bestowed the honorary title human hind. His great soul departed from this morlal lancl in
Brahmachari on him for his mendicant life and world travel, I 890 A.D. It is celebrated through touch of human love. . . ;

85
 House of Jyoti Bose
Ancestral residence of Jyoti Bose, former Chief Minister of West
Bengal is situated at Bardi of Sonargaon. Jyoti Bose has been
able to create a separate identity for himself as one of the most
popular leaders in the Indian history.
It was Jyoti Bose's father Nishikanta Bose who had
constructed this building a century ago. Some Panchu Ostagar
had been its chief mason. Jyoti Bose's mother Hemlata Bose was t)
only child of her parents. So her father gifted the land of this
house to the son-in-law at times of wedding. He built this
mansion n 1329 Bangabda (Bengali year).
The grandeur and examples of Sonargaon is still alive in the
memoirs of the travelers and the legends of the region.

Baradi monastery Ancestral residence oJ Jyoti Bose, Baradi

86
In the royal court of Sonargaon Exchange of envoys with China
A ghazal by poet Hafeez It was in the reign of Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah, the last
Oh Saki! Cypress trees, roses and tulips are whispering to each independent and sovereign Sultan of Bengal, that we had
other, exchange of envoys with China to make our diplomatic
They discuss the tripod today that removes us of our guilt of
relationship more firm and stable.
intoxication.
Bring the wine! The new bride of the garden possesses unparallel Relations flourished during the Early Bengal Sultanate. After
beauty, Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah sent the first embassies to China, the
The seduction manouvers of the intermediary woman will prove Ming dynasty and the sultanate frequently exchanged diplomatic
to be effective. missions. The Yongle Emperor (1405-1409), in particular, sent
Al1 the parrots of Inclia will become sweet voiced one day, annual envoys to Bengal.
As the sweet ghazal from Persia is flying to Bengal.
Exchange of envoys between Sonargaon and China at first
Ye watch the vclocity of the poem that traverses the distance of
phase of the l5th century is really astonishing. Representative of
space and time-
One night olc'l chilcl is crossing the way of one year.
the Sultan of Bengal, along with 230 royal dignitaries in total,
Spring breeze gently passes in the Emperor's garden reached China during this period. They received hearty welcome
And the wine ot'clcws is being bcstowed on the colored glass of from the employees of the diplomatic wing of the then Chinese
red flowers. emperor. On the other hand, the foreign policy introduced by
Look at those two clccciving and hypnotic eyes of the Ghiyasuddin Azam Shahprevailedtill l43l A.D.
theosophist; Chang Ha, the reputed mariner and representative of the
See how a magnetic teanr is walking behind him.
Chinese Emperor, took attempts to cross the sea for seven times
My drunkard friend is strolling in the flower garden,
and finally reached Bengal in 1431 A.D. Fleets of Chang Ha
So the sweat drops shimrncr like dews on faces ofjasmine.
Be aware of the debauchery of this eafth as this old lady generally used to cross the sea during the winter. They had to
Whenever she sits alone continue on uttering her magic words jour-ney towards Mao Shan and Sui Jan and Nicobar islands from
And wrilcrs down sorccry whenever she walks Su-Men-Ta-La, Sumatra to reach Pang Kola or Bangla. It was
Ncvcrr lirllow thc rnores of Samery as because required to shift the ship towards north-west and the ship used to
llc lras wastcd his gold out of his fbolishness. anchor in Chittagong after 21 days since start of the journey
Anrl linally he chased a calf leaving Mojes provided the winds were in favour.
llulccz, don't bc silcnt about the patronage fiom the
The delegates from China were used to be taken to palace
l{oyal court of Sultan Ghiyasuddin,
after wann reception by the representatives of the Sultan; the
As your fame spreacls out from your tears and lamentations!
foreign delegates were provided with elephants and horses and
(Origina I Edi ting : G u 1,1 n d u m. Tra ns latio n : Po et llr[aniruddin Yousu/). their trained riders to escort them to the palace. After taking rest

87
for a while, the Chinese ship then used to move again towards They have termed this land as "tropical land." They mentioned
Pantua (Pandua), the capital city of Pangkola (Bangla) and reach about ripening of paddy two times each year. Also they told
after some days. Chinese royal representatives like Ma-Huan or about a pafticular type of paddy whose grains are long and red.
Chang Ha have highly praised of the cities and townships of Wheat, til, rai and joar also used to be grown. Ginger, nrustard,
medieval Bengal and narrated them as bewitchingly beautiful. birnjals, bhang, choros and other diff'erent types of vegetables
Almost all the cities were well protected by firm walls. Market and bananas used to be grown.
centers were wide. The cities were fairly populated with well
Royal Chinese representatives have, in additron, rncnlioncd
decorated mansions. The city of Sonargaon was much prosperous
about different types of shops, eateries and bathing houses. Thcy
once upon a time.
praised highly of our abundance of fine cloths and muslin in
The Chinese representatives have termed Bangladesh as a
particular.
"large country." Those who used to work in the royal court were
Muslims in most of the cases and they were well mannered. Naration of the Sultani regime in Bengal by the Chincsc
People of this land seemed to the Chinese representatives as envoys showcases a happy and prosperous image of this lanrl.
unique in terms of couftesy and amity. Wealthy class of this land The amiable communication on part of the Chinese [lnr1-rcrot'
used to get occupied in the ship building industry and hold trade seems like a miracle today.
and commerce with the foreigners. Most of the people of the
country were peasants. Generally they wre dark complexioned. Foreigner tourists in Bengal
Howeveq sometimes people can find some fair complexioned The geographical location and hearty hospitality ol- lhc
people too. Men shave their heads and wear a special type of
inhabitants of Bengal have always allured the foreigncrs to visit
loose robe. They wear that dress which begins by wrapping up
this land. There is no gold mine in this land. But wc havc
their heads. They wear shoes with pointed edge.
bounteous natural beauty and fertile land as extended as up to thc
According to the observation of the Chinese representatives
horizons. This is why whoever has stepped in this Indiarr sLrb-
that people of Bangladesh generally speak in Bengali though the
continent they could not get rid off the temptation to visil
govemment language was Fersi. Coins are made of silver. This
Bengal, the pinnacle of natural beauty of the sub-continent.
coin was generally called as "tanka" by the Bengali. This coin
Travelogues by these great foreign travelers have playcd a
generally used to be exchanged in large trade and commerce. A
significant role in the history of the Bengali nation. I have
special sort of sea conch shells used to be exchanged in terms of
profound faith that the observation of these travelers should be
small business and everyday transactions.
taken into account while writing the historical chronicles of
Chinese ambassadors have also provided a beautiful
Bengal.
depiction of our natural environment and crops and vegetables.

88
 tenning Bcngal as "the besl place in the lr,orld to live in."
Dasgupta, in addition, has again quotcr,l Verllrarno where the
Italian toi.rrist said" "l never salv a countfy irr rvhich provisions
wcrc so clreap." Great travelers o1' rrll time like Ma Huan.
Faxian, I{alph Filch, lbu Batr-rla a;rd others have come to visit
Sonargaon as it had bccn thc capital city o1'ancicnt Bengal.

itrr,fl

B€i ir no

xr'm

Horrur
Kunmng

Mdlindi

Surebaya

Ma-Huan, the great visitor of China 7'rovel nap o/ A,(cr-ITuurr

All the foreigner tourists who have visited Bengal in ancient and Nla Huan : This Chinese traveler came to our land en sea routc.
medieval age have acknowledged the prosperity of this land. He reached Clhittagong trtter 20 long clays of navigating in the
Historian S.M.Taifoor, in his book entitled Glimpses of Old sea. He conrnrencecl his journey fi'onr the Snnratra islands and
Dhaka, has mentioned: "Bengal has hundred gates open for then reachecl C'hittagong via Nicohar island. Hc rcachcd
entrance but not one for departure." Historian J.N. Dasgupta, Sunourkong err the city of Sonargaon, IJc opincd that the distance
being marveled at the eye enticing nature, vast harvest of crops, between Sonargaon anrl the seas were no less than ,50 lee or 150
thousand years' old history and heritage and enriched art and rniles.

culture of Bengal, has quoted Italian traveler Verthamo while Faxian : Farian visited the land of Bengal during the Yongle

89

I
I
i
empire (1403-25). He came to our land during the regime of came to our land after a long sea voyage. He is reported to invade
Sultan Saifuddin Hamja Shah. He too came to Bangladesh en our country. He entered into Bengal after crossing the river
naval route like Ma Huan. It is reported that Faxian reached Ganges and Yamuna as traversing from within Varanasi and
"Cha-Ti-Ki-Aang" (Chittagong), the sea port of Bengal, after 20 Patna. I

days long sea voyage from Sumatra islands, according to the James Taylor has narrated in his book "Topography of I
annals depicted in historian Sukhmay Mukhopadhya's book Dhaka": "sertipore was situated about 6 leagues to the south of
"Raja Ganesha." Sonargaon. The Portuguese are said to have settled here about
the middle of the 16th century (page: 70)."
Faxian reached Bengal probably by October-November. He
came in Bengal to hand over the gifts to the then King of Bengal He, in addition, briefed that king of this area was named
from the Chinese emperor. Chand Roy. Later Ralph Fitch reached Sonargaon the capital city
which was 6 Lee distant from Serripore. Ralph Fitch, special
envoy of Queen Elizabeth to China, visited East Bengal during
the reign of Masnad-e-Ala Isa Khan. He mentioned that 'Chief
king of this land was named Isa Khan. He is the king of the kings
of this particular region. He was a great friend of the
Christians...' This is a very fertile land and rice, cotton and other
silk products are the major commodities of this region. People of
this region are very much wealthy and prosperous."...Women
wear ltansuli (crescent-shaped otnament worn round the neck),
armlet, rings of silver, copper or ivory for toe digit.'
Ralph Fitch opined about Sonargaon in the following words:
"sonargaon is nine crosh distant from Serripore. Most refined
cloths of India are manufactured here. Houses are small and
straw thatched here as in other regions of India. All the four
coffrers of the huts remain surrounded with the walls of coarse
mats (chatal) to save themselves from tigers and jackals. Most of
the people are rich. They don't take meat or kill animals. They
Ralph Fitch wear a little amount of cloths and most of their body parts
remain bare. Rice, milk and fruits are their principal dishes.
Ralph Fitch Huge amount of cotton and rice are exported from this parl of
English traveler Ralph Fitch traveled Bangladesh at the last India to other parts of India, Ceylon, Pegu, Malakka, Sumatra
phase of 16th century. He embarked on a ship entitled Tiger and and other areas of the world."

90
Ibn Batuta : (Rah) in Sylhet. He reached the "Sudkatto" port of the then East
Ibn Batuta was born inTanzania of Morocco in 1304 A.D. He is Bengal after a tough sea voyage of 43 days amidst hundreds of
a world reputed Muslim traveler, Islami thinker, judge and obstacles. The "Sudkatto" port of that era is today's Chittagong
theosophist. He had been one of the most reputed travelers of the port. Ibn Batutah needed one month time to reach "Sudakatto."
world. He commenced his joumey to the realm of unknown at After meeting with Sheikh Jalal Uddin and cherishing the
the mere age of 21. His goal was to perforrn the holy pilgrimage hospitality offered by him for three days, he first went to
(haj) at Mecca. But he did not return back his home after Habiganj via river Meghna and then reached Sonargaon on 14th
completion of his pilgrimage; rather he began traveling in August of 1346 A.D. It took him 15 days in the total course of
different countries and continents of the world. His full name voyage. We get sketches of four places and three rivers from his
was Ab Abd al-L h Mu ammad ibn Abd al-L h l-Law t - an travelogue. These four places are namely: 'Sudakatto,' 'Kamaru,'
ibn Ba ah or simply Muhammad Ibn Battuta. He never has '
Habank' and' Sunurkatta.' The rivers are: Ganges, Jun (Jamuna),
established any pernanent dwelling place to live in. He has Nahar-ul-Ajrak or the river Meghna.
roved around fiom one place to another all throughout his life.
He is basically renowned as a globe trotter. He traveled from the
continents of Africa and Europe to Pakistan, India, Maldives, Sri
Lanka, South-East Asia, China and Bangladesh. It is known from
the book entitled "The Rehla of Ibn Battuta" by Mahdi Hussain
that Ibn Batutah entered into India in 1333 A.D. He reached
Delhi by 1333 A.D. and during the reign of Sultan Muhammad
Bin Tughlak. He stayed there for eight years after being
appointed by the Sultan as "Qazi." He acquired vast knowledge
in terms of inner identity of the administrative activities in Delhi,
actual experiences of lifestyle etiquettes of the royal aristocrats
by dint of his close affiliation with the political life of the royal
World acclainred traveler lbn Batuta
administrators. It helped him in noting down important
information on different issues. After that the Sultan appointed Sunurkatta or Sonargaon was a capital city situated on the bank
him as the Ambassador of China. But he could not reach up to of river Meghna. According to the historical sources, Sultan
China for sinking of the ship. Later he came to Bengal after Fakhruddin was the first independent Sultan of East Bengal. He
passing the calendar year 1342 in the Malay islands, 1345 in Sri in Sonargaon during l33B A.D. and
established his capital city
Lanka and South India. ruled as a king tlll 1352 A.D. Ibn Batuta traveled Sonargaon
It was Ibn Batutah's sole desire to meet Hazrat Shah Jalal during the reign of Sultan Fakhruddin. It appears from the

9l
travelogue of lbn Batuta that Fakhruddiu Mubalak Shah was a beautitul, artifrcial fountains. Ibn Batutah got spellbound seeing
righteous administrator and held profound respect ibl the pirs the splendid weaving crafts of refined muslin.
and dervishes, i.e., the santly people in lslamic faitli. Foreign Sharluddin Abu Tawamma, one of the scholars of east,
travelers, ambassadors, tourists and derr,ishes used to throng in devoted his life to eradicate the darkness of Sonargaon with his
Sonargaon during his reign. Ibn Batutah, in addition, mentioned larnp of knowledge. At that time King Danuj Roy was the
about the external comrnercial relationsirip of Sonargaon with zemindar (feudal lord) under the jurisdiction olTugnral, the then
China, Java and Malay isiands. Ibn Batutah got overwhehned at Governor of Bengal. L)uring the Muslim uprising, Danuj Roy left
immense riches and treasures ol Sonargaon. He noticed in his Subarnagram and took refuge in Chandra Dhp or Bakherganj.
marveled eyes that how God has gifted the soil of Sorargaon 'Ihis fact is chronicled in Dhaka Gazette in the following worcls.
with huge wealth! As if it could be compared only with the "T'ugmal pushed this Danuzrai out of the present Dhaka Districl
boundless natural resources besides the banks of the river Nile. to Clhandra Dhip, now in Bakerganj in 1275 A.D." The royal
court of Ghiyas-ud-din Ralban was a centre stage for meeting ol'
the renowned intellectuals of that time and also it had bccn n
place for exchange of thoughts and ideas between Sr-rll ancl
Islami thinkers. Shayakh Sharfuddin Abu thwamrla had
established Jameya/Islami Llniversity in Sonargaon. Hc was lhe
real mentor of the Muslim tradition of Sonargaon cr-rnr E,ast
Bengal. It is the wisdom and intellectual success of' Abu
Tawamrna, the pioneer of lslamic teachings in this lancl that
altracted lot many devotees and wise persons to visit Sonurjiton.
Ibn Batutah was one of them. He became amazecl allcr hc visilc:tl
the Jame'ya" It was known that lbn Batutah wcrrt to .lavir ol-
Indonesia. The golden history ol- Sonargaon and its r.ncuroirs
make people iuterested about its souvenirs till today.
Ioreign tourists and roving envoys used to come at
Mograpara of the capital city of Sonargaon during the Sultani
regime" lt is known that erninerrt personalities like FB Bradley
Bafi, Swarup Chandra Roy, Ahmad Hassan Dani, SM Taifur, Dr.
[bn Bahttah M.A.Rahirn, Abul Fazal and other historians have mentioned
After Ibn Batutah's land had reached Sonargaon porl, he Mograpara as the "capital city" of ancient Bengal. 'foday,
could see this mystical city of Sonargaon of eas1. with a mrrnber however, there are ahnost no examples of Muslim heritage
of eye enticing mansions surrounded by walls, large markets and except a mosque of N{ughal period in Mograpara.

92
 Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah was a glorious Sultan of the middle new bondage of our past history and tradition can be made with
ages. He was the king from the Ilyas Shahi dynasty who our younger generation. It will help in paving the door of
illuminated the reputation of Bengal for its good goverrance and representing Sonargaon, the centre stage of thousand years' old
I
prosperity across the world. He himself was a poet. He used to ancient and enriched history tradition and culture to tourists and
l
I
place other learned poets in high esteem . Hafeez, the great poet travelers from home and abroad.
l
from Persia, was his friend. Sultan himself was a scholar in
I
Arabic and Persian. So Sultan Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah used to
maintain regular correspondence with Hafeez, the great poet i !ti::

from Persia. Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah once invited Hafeez to

visit Sonargaon. Hafeez declined the invitation considering the
distance between two lands but sent a Ghazal with the following
lines:
"All purrots of India will be sweet tongued today,
the
The kand (sweet ghazal) ofPersia travels to Bengal.
Taking the in.spiration .from the majlish of Hafez Sultan
&
Ghiyasuddin, 4t
'*
Don't be absent minded, .your work will be authenticated through "A
s&
tears."
\
Sonargaon is one of the major tourist spots in Bangladesh. It {
q
is in this context I
do consider it relevant to include a brief $

introduction about the foreigner travelers in Bengal and some

poems or lyrics by the'lyricists, mention of Sonargaon in
Hafeez's ghazal, exchange of envoys with China and my small
write-r"rp entitlecl Cultural History of Sonurgaon in this book.
This endeavour is basically a frantic effort to revive the
florgotten, golden history of Sonrgaon. This place is the souvenir
of our past heritage. Sultan Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah was a proud
Muslim ruler of Bengal. His tomb of touchstone still stands as
witness of our tradition. Some expressions of poet Hafeez in the
ghazal bears the testimonial of extraordinary significance of
Bengal in this ghazal. I realize anew that through this ghazal a Tavarnea4 a.Jbreigner traveler in Bengal, 1666 A.D.

93
 Indigo plantation and indigo rebellion in Bengal), Rajib
Books of Reference : Ahmed, Gotidhara publishers, Dhaka- 1 100.
13. MuslimArchitecture in Bengal, Pro. A.H.Dani,p.237.
1
1. SONARGAON, Dr. S.M. Hasan, Bangladesh Folk Aft & 14. Archaeological Survey of India, Report by Sir A. i
Crafts Foundation 1982. Cunningham (xv. Page 143). I

2. Sonargaon Upazilla Unnayan (Development) Profile, 15. Purba Banga: Maimansingh Geetika, Sri Dinesh Chandra
December 2004. Sen Roy Bahadur, B.A. DLit, page no. 40.
3. Sonargaon er Itihas Utsa O Upadan (History of Sonargaon: 16. Proshanti, 6th Foundation Anniversary souvenir 2012,lstt
Sources and Elements), Professor Mohammad Rezaul Khan Foundation.
Karim, edited by Dr. Saikat Asgar, July 1993. 17. Banglapedia, Bangladesh Jatiya Gyan Kosh (Bangladesh
4. Subarnagram er Itihas (History of Subarnagram), Swarup National Knowledge Pedia), Volume IV, Banglaclcsh
Chandra Roy, Kolkata (1891). Asiatic Society.
5. R.C. Majumder, History of Bengal, vol. l- Dacca 1970. 18. S.M.Taifoor, Glimpses of Old Dhaka 1952
6. Sonargaon in history (Itihas e Sonargaon), Bangladesh 19. Ibid, 3 page no. 203,205
Folk Arts & Crafts (Lok O Karu Shilpa) Foundation, 20. Ibid 17, volume 9.
1919.
7. M.A.Rahim: Social and Cultural History of Bengal, vol.
III,Dacca 1961.
B. Entrepreneurships in Business (Class IX-X), National
Education and Text Book Board Curriculum. Dhaka
2012.
9. Oitrlhjho (Tradition), Bangladesh Loke O Karu (Folk &
Afts) ShilpoFoundation.
10. Sonargaon-Panam Asiatic Society of Bangladesh, March
1997.
I l. Bangladesh er Pratnasampad (Archaeological Resources
of Bangladesh), Abul Kalam Mohammad Zakaria, Dibya
Prokash, Dhaka.
72. Banglai Neel Chas o Neel Bidroher Itihas (History of

94
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95