MODEL MAKING

INTRODUCTION
Definition
A model is an abstraction of something for the purpose of understanding it, a model sometime
omits non-essential details, so it is easier to manipulate than the original entity.
Abstraction is a fundamental human capability that permits us to deal with complexity. To build
complex systems, the developer must abstract different views of the system, build models using
precise notations, verify that the models satisfy the requirements of the system and gradually add
details to transform the model into implementation.
PURPOSE OF MODELS
Models are an important part of the design process for any project. They are not simply the final
design solution.
Models can help students analyse a situation and identify the needs of the people who use it.
They are easily pulled apart and altered. Models can help students appreciate how spaces are
used and identify problems that may arise from the interaction of different users.
They can be used as a means of communicating proposed solutions, highlighting special features,
materials and colours. Most importantly, a model is informative and brings a building, object or
place to life off the plan.
 Testing A Physical Entity Before Building It:
The medieval masons did not know modern physical, but they built scale models of the Gothic
Cathedral to test the forces on the structure. Recent advances in computation permit the
simulation of many physical structures without having to build physical models.
Both physical and computer models are usually cheaper than building a complete system and
enable flaws to be converted easily.
 Communication with Customers:
Architects and products engineers build models to show their customers. In architecture a model
provides and ultimate means of showing how finished homes or (structures) would look like in
all three dimensional, physically or in computers (3D).

1
  Visualisation:
A model can be viewed from any position and greatly increased the amount of information
communicated. e.g. Storyboard of movies; Television shows; complicated roof of a building;
Artists sketches before sculpturing.

 Reduction of Complexity
The main reason for modelling, which incorporates all the previous reasons, is to deal with
systems that are too complex to understand directly. The human mind can cope only with a
limited amount of information at one time. Models reduce complexity by separating out small
number of important things to deal with at a time.

Characteristics of good Model Materials

A wide variety of materials can be used in model to stimulate full scale finishes furnishings.
These materials must closely resemble materials used in actual construction in thickness, colour,
texture scale; they may be larger or smaller depending on the scale of the model, amount of
detail desire, size and fund.
There is wide variety of material available for model making their choice depend on:

2
material available for model making their choice depend on:

Available in the Resemblance to Cutting materials

market- easy to materials of Budget available –
obtain construction curving

Required painting
Thickness Texture or plain Easy to glue or not (self
painted

Simplicity in Cutting materials

Type of model to Purpose of the
cutting, available –
be made model
assembling curving

Simplicity of Strength Durability- expose

cutting with knife, required- heavy Function to weather? Dose
razor blade or lighter not warp

Before the choice of materials is done decision in the type of model has to be reached, this
simplifies and eliminates from a list of variety and limited to choose that fits the type of model
required.

3
MATERIALS FOR CONSTRUCTION:

S/ materials use functions

N
A Structures:
1 Styrofoam Sheets Easy to Resemble various exterior building
cut materials; Easy to glue; Can be painted in
various form, Soft, may be scratched or
easily broken.

2 Cardboard or illustrated board Easy to Store bought card comes in a variety of

obtain, thicknesses, colours and textures. For
Light and example, you can buy fine corrugated card
Strong, to represent corrugated iron on roofs or
Glue well, tanks. Recycled card is perfect for model
come in making. The card used for cereal boxes,
colours egg cartons and toilet rolls can be used in a
need no variety of ways on a model and is handy to
paint, have in your collection. The corrugated
Warps card from a carton is a common material
easily, cut for building up landscapes around your
with knife model
or razor
blade
3 Balsa Wood Easy to Balsa could be used to make up large areas
cut with of the model but not recommended. foam
sharp board tends to be easier to cut. Balsa dowel
knife, and strips are useful as connectors or
does not frames in a model.
warp as
cardboard,

4
 is strong.
4 foam board: Foam It’s easy to cut, light weight and gives a
board is crisp, professional finish to a model.
used by Purchased from any good art supply store,
designers it consists of a central core of foam with
and thin card applied to either side. Foam board
architects comes in a variety of thicknesses with 5
for model mm being the most common. Foam board
making is cut using a metal ruler and a blade and
and available in sizes A4 to A1.
presenting
work
Other Building components
5 Bricks Styrofoam, Cardboard, Basal wood,
Chipboard- hand painted and scored with
ink to represent joints, Sandpaper- painted
red or black and scored with knife
6 Carpet Burlap, crushed corduroy, felt, velour
paper, velvet.
7 Ceramic tile Painted and scored chipboard or acetate.
8 Concrete Flock, painted sandpaper, Plain or pebbled
illustration board or clipboard, depending
on texture desired
9 Draperies Cloth (check size of weave to ensure that it
will be small scale).
10 Furniture Charms, Cove base moulding (to model
church pews). Dollhouse furniture,
Handmade (e.g. Styrofoam or polyurethane
foam for cushions with scarp cloth for
upholstery, steel wire for metal chair
frames, stained balsa for desks). Perfume

5
 bottles (to model vases)
11 Glass Block Scored Plexiglas or sheet plastic
12 Glazing Acetate, Glass (1/8 in thick or less),
Opaque acrylic, Plexiglas or sheet plastic
(sanded with fine sandpaper to stimulate
translucent glass).

13 Gypsum Board Non-skid floor covering, painted

chipboard, painted sandpaper, Pebbled
illustration board (smooth board can also
represent acoustical board), Velour paper
(large scale)

14 Marble Hand painted board, marbleized paper, and

White opaque acrylic.

15 Metals Aluminium, Brass, Copper and Steel

16 Mirrors mirror, Silver acetate (or Mylar) and Silver
Plexiglas.

17 People Magazine pictures mounted on thin

illustration board or cardboard.

18 Plaster Painted chipboard, Painted sandpaper,

Pebbled illustration board, Velour paper
(large scale).
19 Skylights (Plastic Dome) Acetate, Glass, Tracing paper
20 Stone Contact paper, Cork (e.g. automotive
gaskets), Pieces of paper cut out and glued
on illustration board, Plaster of Paris

6
21 Terrazzo Hand painted board Speckled wrapping
paper.
Vinyl Wall Covering Contact paper, Linen, Plastic placemats

B TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Scale ruler A scale ruler is a vital piece of equipment
for all model makers
Metal rulers or steel straight edge Steel rule: straight tool for measuring,
drawing and cutting made of steel and
metal. With one or two straight edge and
units of length marked on it. Plastic and
wooden rulers will be damaged by blades.
A metal ruler also supplies a weight to
what you’re cutting and you’re less likely
to slip and cut yourself
Try-square, T-square or setsquare For drawing lines, pasting and alignment of
(Metal) designs and other shapes on the drawing
board. T-square is made from wood, plastic
or aluminum. Keeping the individual
pieces of your model square is crucial to
making the edges of your model meet
cleanly. Use a square throughout to check
your model.

Cutting mat Cutting mat: mat/board for cutting model

materials; a piece of flat wood or rigid
plastic used to protect table while cutting.
These can be used repeatedly and save
damaging table tops and blades. The grids
also help with squaring up small pieces of
card or paper. Available in A1, A2, and A3

7
 and purchased from any art supply store.

C Cutting tools
Craft knives, Stanley knives or scalpels tool for cutting, usually with a sharp blade
and a handle, used for cutting, slicing, or
spreading, are the best way to cut card or
foam board.
Always use them with a metal ruler and
stand up and over what you’re cutting.
Keep the knife blade vertical when cutting
to produce neat joints. Whether you’re
cutting with a craft knife or a scalpel, it’s
better to use several lights passes rather
than trying to cut all the way through with
one go. You’ll get a cleaner cut and you’re
less likely to slip and cut your finger. As
soon as you feel a blade ‘drag’ on card or
foam board replace it, as a ragged cut will
spoil the appearance of your model.
Scissors can be used for cutting small pieces of card
and acetate.

Pliers gripping tool, a hand tool with two hinged

arms ending in jaws that are closed by hand
pressure to grip something.
Circle cutters can be purchased from art supply stores
and are used to cut circles cleanly from
foam board, a difficult thing to do with just
a craft knife.

Retaining tools Basically, anything that holds the item in

8
 place whilst the adhesive sets. Useful items
include dressmaking pins, paper clips,
paperweights and masking tape. These can
also be used when checking how the model
will look prior to gluing.

D Adhesives
There are a variety of types of adhesives
available. Each has a useful purpose as
well as things it should not be used for.
Types: Most glue is of one of two types:
Evaporation Types Glue is solvent or water-based and dries by
evaporation of the solvent.

Chemical cure types These glues cure by chemical process.

They are further broken down to one or
two-part glues. Two-part glues must be
mixed in some ratio before the glue can be
used. Two-part chemical-cure glues do not
shrink significantly. One-part types may or
may not shrink
Aliphatic Resin-also called Carpenters
Glue;
Traditional Solvent or Cellulose-Base Two of one part of glues
Glue; also called Airplane Glue or Tube
Glue
Contact Cement;
Cyanoacrylate (CA); also called Super
Glue;
Double-Stick Cellophane Tape- also
called Double-Sided Tape

9
Epoxy Glue, Hot Glue
Plastic Cement
Polyurethane Glue
Silicone Adhesive
Spray adhesive
White Glue
Adhesive Additives
Chopped fiberglass
Micro-balloons
Talc
Thickeners.
PVA glue This is the most useful model making
adhesive available. It forms a quick, strong
bond and is ideal for covering large areas.
It’s also inexpensive and a lot goes a long
way. Any excess can be cleaned using a
damp cloth while the adhesive is still wet.
It can also be diluted and used as a sealer
over surfaces and edges, as it dries clear.
If you want to remove a foam board section
of your model after it’s been glued, lightly
run a scalpel along the join and base and
carefully cut out.

Spray adhesive This is the best way to apply paper to foam

board, e.g. fixing a plan to the base of your
model or fixing textured paper to foam
board to create a wall. Stick glues can be
over used or not evenly distributed, leaving
visible lumps under the paper being fixed.
Repositionable spray adhesives are

10
 expensive but allow you to peel the paper
off to make alterations without tearing.

E Bases

Models should always have a solid base.

For small models up to A3 in size you can
use foam board. Anything larger it’s best to
use craft board, cut to size in a workshop.
A base can also be made from layers of
corrugated card cut to indicate the sloping
terrain. Always paint a craft board base
first before attaching the model.
An effective technique for painting a base
is to paint one coat of a dark shade, say in
green, applied with a roller and left to dry.
Take a sea sponge, torn into a workable
size and lightly dip into a lighter shade of
green. Now dab the sponge onto the base
leaving a textured pattern. Let dry and add
a lighter shade.

Scoring card or paper Scoring creates a fold or line in card or

paper, e.g. if you were making bi-fold
doors or folding furniture into shape. The
easiest way to do it is with your finger nail
or edge of a ruler

F Creating vegetation/Landscape
Trees and bushes can be made from sea sponges, broken into
small sections and lightly painted with a

11
 few different shades of green, much
cheaper than store-bought model
vegetation. Sea sponges can be purchased
from $2 shops, hardware stores and
chemists. Simply brush some PVA glue to
the base of the sponge and apply to your
model. Tree trunks can be made from
found twigs with sea sponge attached.
Scale is still important here. Check that the
tree or bush is the right size for the scale of
your model. To get a ‘tree’ to stand
properly, drill a small hole into the craft
board base, add PVA glue then the tree.
Hot glue is also useful for applying
vegetation. To indicate fruit on trees or
flowers, add small pieces of coloured
paper. Again, scale is important
Tanks Water tanks can be made by cutting two
circles of foam board to scale and gluing a
strip of corrugated card between them to
create the sides of the tank. Use pins to hold in
place until dry.

Water Pools and ponds can be made from blue

acrylic or a sheet of blue plastic.

Fences A simple post and rail fence can be made

from bamboo skewers cut to length (the
posts) or craft sticks (matches without
heads) with wire evenly separating each
‘post’. Use a hot glue gun to fix ‘posts’ in

12
 place.
Designers build many kinds of models for
various purposes before constructions.
Examples include architectural models to
show customers, airplane scale models for
wind tunnel tests, pencil sketches for
composition of oil paintings, blue prints of
machine parts, storyboards of
advertisements, and online of books.

TYPES OF MODELS
 Stage Set
 Type 1- The simplest of models can be constructed from the architectural drawings,
preliminaries or sketches. These drawings are simple pasted on cardboard and set up like props
(support for concrete floors decking). This model is built only where the camera will set it, which
can usually be determined beforehand. The cardboard model represents only one plane of the
structure which is perfectly adequate for most people.
 Type 2- similar to the type 1 stage set in that the elevation are pasted on cardboard. It
differs in that additional elements can be added to create depth. Roof overhangs can be added as
well as proportion of any kind. Scale figures as scale automobiles can also assist in getting a
more realistic preview of what the drawing will be like.
 Elevational Model -This is a two-dimensional assembling of modelling materials on one
plane which shows a roof, walls and other decorations on a plane surface. Elevational
model looks exactly like an elevation but in a model form.
 Topographic/Contour Model
The model for land shapes can be made easily by utilising cardinals for contours as opposed to
the expensive machine-milled Styrofoam contours associated with other models. Visually this
type of model is best suitable for slide presentation use, as it is too elaborate for rendering
purposes.
 Box Model

13
A simple set model is carried to completion, by constructing all sides and enclosing it. It does not
require excessive details such as sill, mullion etc the enclosing sides adds to the solidity, as it is
more reliable for large buildings where true vertical is desired. The main advantage is that any
number of views can be taken from any angle, since it is complete model.
 Mass Model
This is like the box model in that it is completely in three dimensions. When shapes are too
complex to build from cardboard, a solid form is easier to use.
 Site Model
This type of model is done for a site that is so large where every unit (components) on the site
cannot be properly presented with all details (doors, windows, roof slope etc). Here a block
representation is done for every unit on site.
A site model shows the following details: blocks of the buildings, pedestrian walkways,
vehicular circulation, drainages, landscape, topography, services. It also shows the relationship
between the blocks and the neighbouring development if possible.
 Exterior models (Presentation Model)
These are models of buildings which usually include some landscaping or civic spaces around
the building.
These are models made in the exactness of the architectural drawings showing all necessary
details- paint, windows, doors, steps, rails, columns, decoration and other related component on
the site. A presentation model must show all wall texture, colours and thickness. It shows the
appearance of a finished building as realistic as possible.
 Engineering and construction models (Structural Models)
Show isolated building/structure elements and components and their interaction.
This type of model shows the skeletal aspect of a building i.e. columns, beams, floors and
roofing members. It is usually employed when it is desirable to see into the structure, where
structural aspect is exposed to the basic construction and it’s necessary when unique construction
is to be used.
 Interior models (Furniture Model) are models showing interior space planning,
finishes, colors, furniture and beautification. This type of model cuts off the roof of the
building and revealing the interior, it is usually produced on a large scale (1:50, 1:20,

14
 1:10 etc) so as indicate/show reality of objects. For instance, the wall thickness, the width
and height of furniture’s, the door swing direction etc are shown.
 Landscaping design models are models of landscape design and development
representing features such as walkways, small bridges, pergolas, vegetation patterns and
beautification. Landscaping design models usually represent public spaces and may, in
some cases, include buildings as well.
 Urban models are models typically built at a much smaller scale (starting from 1:500
and less, 1:700, 1:1000, 1:1200, 1:2000, 1:20 000), representing several city blocks, even
a whole town or village, large resort, campus, industrial facility, military base and so on.
Urban models are a vital tool for town/city planning and development.

PRODUCTION OF MODELS/MODEL MAKING PROCEDURE:

 Architectural Drawings
For a model to be constructed the architectural drawings must be required either in form of
sketches or finished drawing.
A set of architectural drawings depends on the type of model to be made, but generally drawings
to be obtained for all kinds of models are:
i. Site plan ii. Floor plan(s) iii. Section(s) iv. Roof plan v. elevations (a view of
each/all sides) vi. Details of complicated areas and decoration or finishes.
 Planning/ Decision Making
The most important step for any model making project is to establish a clear goal for the model.
What is the model for and what does it need to communicate? There is always a temptation to
show every detail in a model, when it’s more effective to highlight the most important aspect of
your design. An architectural model can show how the entire building sits in the environment
without showing all detail or it could highlight one interesting area of the building. A sectional
model can explain the relationship between exteriors and interiors. The important thing is to start
with a clear purpose for your model. What do you want it to illustrate and what sort of model
will achieve your goals?
Section of the type of model to be constructed depends on some factors:

15
Purpose of the model – presentation to client requires presentation model, complicated roof
might require structural roof model, a large site would need a site model with the blocks of the
entire unit on site etc.
Size of the model
Cost
Materials available
Handling
Storage
 Scale
The next step is to choose the most appropriate scale for your model. Don’t let scale scare you.
Scales are actually very simple and once established will make sense of your model. The scale of
a model is a ratio, in other words, the relative size of the model to the real thing. For example,
1:1 scale (we would say this as ‘one to one’) would be a life size model. Whereas, 1:10 scale
(‘one to ten’ or ‘one tenth scale’) would be one tenth of actual size.
The larger the scale indicator number, the smaller the model, which means less detail can be
shown. If you need to show a large landscaped area, you might choose the scale 1:500. If the
purpose of the model was to show a building, you would consider 1:200 or 1:100. At these scales
you can show windows, doors etc. If your goal is to show detailed elements of the building you
may need to go to 1:50 or 1:20.
Scale Purpose
1:500 Large landscaped area
1:200 or 1:100 Building
1:150 or 1:20 Detailed elements of a building
 Choice of Materials
This depends on the following:
Type of model
Cost implication
Availability of materials – use materials easily available.
 Procurement of Materials
Materials can be gotten from our immediate surroundings, market, improvised or even imported.
 Cutting of Materials

16
 Always use clean and sharp blades and a metal ruler otherwise the cuts will be messy and
uneven. It is also best to use a self-healing mat. Not only it will protect the surface
underneath but also your blades will last longer.
Use a Stanley knife for medium to heavy duty materials and straight lines and a scalpel for
lighter materials, lines and curves. There are different opinions on how much pressure to
apply. Some prefer to apply strong pressure and cut the board in one pass. Others prefer to
apply light to medium pressure and use more than one pass to cut the board.
The danger when cutting is to deviate and damage the board or worst, cut your finger. It is
recommended that you carefully experiment with either method and find which one is best
for you and the material you are using.
Use the back of a scalpel or scissor blades to score boards or cards. Scoring is making a mark
on the board, card or paper or partially cutting through in order to fold it. Do not apply too
firm pressure or you will cut all the way through.
 Framing: framing vehicular circulation, pedestrian walkways, landscaping, - with
colours that will create contrast. Boarder of model should be framed with a matching
colour boarder or allowed to bleed.
 Casing: casing glass should not be sharp edges but blunt; Edges must be treated; Joints
must be filled to remove smearing glue.
 Presentation: before or during presentation of your model ensure; you and the venue is
neat, availability of light point and light if need be, you don’t back your audience/jury,
and be on time. Check your model over and over; test your model for light, waterfalls.

A suggested process for making a simple model of a house

Draw a plan to scale or create one with a CAD program.
Photocopy plan and trim around edges.
Paint the base if desired. Determine where the building will go on the base. Do you want to
show surrounding landscape? Should the plan be centred or to one side? Using spray
adhesive fix plan to either a foam board or craft board base.
Measure and mark out your walls, length and height, on foam board using a scale ruler, square
and pencil. If you already have the elevations drawn, photocopy these and glue to foam
board.

17
Using a cutting mat, steel ruler and blade, cut out walls.
Check walls are the same length as those on your plan. Trim to fit if necessary.
Cut out any doors, windows or openings in your elevations.
To glue walls to plan, start with one wall and lightly paint the base and one side with PVA glue.
Paint base and one side of the second wall.
Carefully place the two walls onto the plan and hold corners together with one or more
dressmaking pins. Once dry these pins can be removed.
Wipe up any excess glue with a wet rag.
Continue the same process with the third and fourth walls.
A simple roof can be made with store bought fine corrugated card. Make sure you make the roof
larger than your plan to allow for eaves. Roofs can be simply attached with pins through the
card into the foam board. This allows you to remove the roof to view internal details.

18