IVAN & FMDA1776

VERSION 3
Preface
The CZAR Reinforced Vz61 AR15 FCG Receiver is an update to FMDA’s original Vz61 AR15 FCG
Receiver. This is the third version of the CZAR – with improvements from FMDA to improve the fitment
between some AR-15 fire control groups and the bolt, as well as some aesthetic improvements.

You can watch this assembly process on video here:

https://lbry.tv/@Ivan's_CAD_Streams:c/Vz61TutorialV1.0:c

I recommend you use this document as to supplement the video, having text-based steps helps keep
things organized, being able to see things in real time helps clear up confusing instructions.

Do not be intimidated by the length of the build video/tutorial – this process is not much more complex
than assembling an AR15 from parts. With a little patience, the extensive tutorial value provided by this
document and the build video should be able to help coach you through the build.

If you have found this tutorial useful, consider sending me Bitcoin to further development of this sort of
thing – there is much more to explore in 3D printed guns, DIY guns, DIY ammo, etc.

BTC: bc1qm9q5lu5skq8e50yqz8hps69r44lmue6sfq5y2y
 For Michael – You Are Missed.

Remember that it is our shared responsibility to be safe and smart with firearms and show the
world there is a peaceful way to own guns – take the time to get training, to learn basic (and
advanced) safety rules, and to share the hobby with everyone interested – those most scared of
guns in the hands of the people are often the ones who have no experience with guns in the
first place.
Table of Contents
Preface .......................................................................................................................................................... 2
Shopping List ................................................................................................................................................. 5
Build Tutorial ................................................................................................................................................. 8
Step 1: Lay Out Your Parts ........................................................................................................................ 8
Step 2: Install Vz61 Parts........................................................................................................................... 9
Step 3: Install AR15 Parts ........................................................................................................................ 13
Finishing Up:............................................................................................................................................ 18
FAQ/Troubleshooting ................................................................................................................................. 19
Shopping List
This list will cover what supplies you will need for a CZAR build. You will need some basic tools, such as a
¼-28 tap, metric and imperial drill bit indices, and a drill. The build video details the tools I use at the
beginning – I recommend you take a peek just to make sure you’re on the right path in that regard.

Vz61 32ACP Parts Kit

The big-ticket item for this build will be a Vz61 parts kit. Most of these kits are from old military guns.
While you will not need the stock, original fire control parts, nor the grip parts or trigger guard, most kits
include these – you can just stick them in a box and forget about them. The parts to ensure you have is
an upper receiver (with trunnion installed, it’s EXTREMELY uncommon to find them without a trunnion,
they usually have one), a barrel (ideally already installed and pinned into the upper receiver), a bolt
assembly (including recoil spring and guide rod setup), a magazine catch, a bolt catch, and an
ejector/ejector plunger. If you aren’t sure if a kit has all the right parts, refer to the video where you can
see me assemble each part, and cross reference with Numrich’s diagram for the Vz61
(https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/cz/machine-guns-cz/vz-61-skorpion).

The best source for these kits seems to be Gunbroker – search for ‘Vz61 Parts Kit’. These kits are
becoming a little uncommon, though Czechpoint USA occasionally brings new, commercial manufacture
kits in. If your parts kit is missing any small parts, Czechpoint sells them all.

Original barrel kits are hard to find as of 2023, and as such you may end up having to source a barrel and
kit separate and install your barrel yourself. These barrels are not a very tight press fit and this can be
done with a hammer – however, this process is outside the scope of this tutorial, and as such you should
refer to other sources should you need help installing your barrel.

Example of a Vz61 Parts Kit

Note: This receiver will work with 380 and 22lr parts kits, but these kits are rare. Extensive testing has
not been performed with either, but reliable and safe function has been ensured. This receiver should
be thought of as being for 32, but can work with the rare uppers if you come across one.
AR15 Parts

I know this receiver works with Milspec, LaRue MBT, and BFSIII AR15 fire control groups. I would
imagine it is compatible with a great deal more drop-in triggers but cannot confirm that. Nothing special
is required here, so the decision is up to you.

NOTE: If you don’t want to print an AR15 (or the special Vz61-inspired AR15 grip that salo_ developed),
you will need to buy and AR15 grip. You WILL need an AR15 grip screw regardless (though a generic ¼-
28 bolt will work for this)

NOTE: You will need a safety, safety detent, and safety detent spring in addition to your fire control
groups. More fire control groups do not include a safety, so you may have to get an AR15 lower parts kit
that has a safety (these run about 20 bucks).

MilSpec AR15 Fire Control Group. Note that the safety, safety detent, and safety detent spring are not pictured!

AR15 Grip and Grip Screw

M5 x 35mm Bolt and an M5 nut

This bolt will act as your front takedown pin. I recommend you use a partially threaded bolt such as this
one: https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A256/

Note: You can also use a 3/16” bolt cut down to 35mm and a 3/16” nut – however, this will result in a
little looser fit between the upper and lower.

Tooling:

You will need a 3mm, 4mm, 9mm, 5/32”, and a 3/8” drill bit. You will need a way to drive these drill bits
(cheap battery drill). You will need a ¼-28” tap and a way to spin it (a wrench or tap handle). It will help
to have 1/8” and 1/16” punches. You may need a hammer and drift/dowel rod. You will need whatever
setup is required to install your pistol grip and the front takedown pin that you choose.
Build Tutorial
I recommend you read this section in its entirety, then watch the build video while you go about
building your CZAR. You are, of course, free to build as you would like, but having the manual in your
mind while watching the video should make each step clear.

**REFER TO THE README FOR BASIC PRINT INFORMATION**

Step 1: Lay Out Your Parts

This step is simple – gather up all your parts and lay them out. Make sure you have all the parts you
need. If you are going to be cutting down any bolts or pins, go ahead and do so now. If you cut down a
bolt, remember that you will need to apply a chamfer around the end you cut down and will need to
ensure that nuts can still thread easily on to the bolt.

Spread of parts and tools used in assembling a CZAR

Step 2: Install Vz61 Parts
Take your 9mm, 4mm, and 3mm drill bits. You will drill out the hole for the magazine catch with the
9mm bit (I recommend you set the drill in reverse so that you don’t drill through the receiver!). Insert
the magazine catch drum and ensure it moves freely. If it doesn’t, make sure the keyway (slot at the top
of the mag catch hole) is free of any remaining support material/crud. If it is clear, drill just a little more.
Remove the mag catch. Next, take your 4mm bit and drill out the hole for the bolt catch. Refer to the
video if your bolt catch doesn’t move freely after drill out its hole. Remove the bolt catch. Next, take
your 3mm drill bit and carefully drill out the hole for the ejector retention plunger. Be sure not to drill
the hole any deeper than it already is (drill slowly and don’t let the drill bite). Ensure the plunger moves
freely. Remove the plunger. Next, take your ejector and try installing it. ENSURE THE SLOT IS FREE OF
ALL SUPPORT MATERIAL AND CRUD BEFORE INSTALLING! I recommend using a drift/dowel rod to push
the ejector back into its slot. It shouldn’t take much force to get it to fit, light taps from a hammer at
most. If you get it to move into place, remove it. If it doesn’t get all the way into place, remove it and
ensure the support material is removed.

Finally, take your 9mm, 4mm, and 3mm drill bits and use them by hand to ensure each of their
respective holes are still clean and clear of debris. Ensure each component can move free in its hole still.
You are now ready to install these parts. I recommend you refer to the video for this process. You will
place the magazine catch into its hole, insert the bolt catch, press the magazine catch in and hold it,
place the ejector retention plunger in place, press it down, slide the ejector back over the depressed
plunger, release the magazine catch, then seat the ejector. Ensure the bolt catch and magazine catch
move freely, then test magazine insertion and release. If either part binds or magazines don’t fit, you
may have to disassemble and find whatever is causing your problem (likely a print error or remaining
support material).

Magazine Catch Drilling

Bolt Catch Drilling

Plunger Drilling
 Ejector Test Fit

Parts Installed In Receiver

Magazine Fitment Test
Step 3: Install AR15 Parts
Take your 5/32” and 3/8” drill bits and your receiver from Step 2. Use the 5/32” drill bit to drill out the
hammer and trigger pin holes (and the safety selector detent hole), then use the 3/8” bit to drill out the
selector hole. Allow the drill bit to spin while moving the drill in and out of the fire selector hole to
ensure it won’t fit too tight on the selector itself. Next, take your ¼-28” tap and tap the pistol grip screw
hole. Refer to the video if you don’t know how to use a tap: be sure and cut your chips often and use
plenty of oil.

After tapping, you are ready to begin installing parts (this process will be identical to how these parts
install on an AR15). Install the trigger/disconnector first. Install the hammer next. Install the safety
selector when the hammer is cocked. Leave the selector on safe and install the pistol grip along with the
selector detent and selector detent spring. With the grip installed, do a basic function test – ensure the
hammer will drop when it should and doesn’t when on safe. Do not let the hammer slam against the
receiver, catch it with your hand.

Drilling Fire Control Group Holes

Drilling Selector Detent Hole

Drilling Selector Hole

 Tapping Grip Screw Hole

Installing Hammer and Trigger

Installing Selector (Ensure it can Move Freely/Isn’t Tight)

Installing Pistol Grip/Detent/Detent Spring

Parts Installed. Be Sure to Function Check!
Finishing Up:
Your final step will involve your M5 (or 3/16”) bolt and nut to secure the upper to the lower.

Take your upper receiver. The first time you install it, it will fit fairly tight. Refer to the video for tips on
getting the upper to line up correctly. Place the front end of the upper and lower together and hinge
them together. Ensure that you don’t accidently push the bolt out of the back of the upper at all. Hinge
downward until the upper is parallel to the lower. At this point, you should be able to push the upper
backwards, into the lower. I recommend pushing down on the assembly, barrel down, using a t-shirt or
rag to protect the barrel from whatever surface you are pushing against. You should be able to feel the
upper fully seat itself in the lower after you push. At this point, the front pin hole should line up, and you
can stick your bolt or pin through. If it doesn’t line up, ensure the upper is fully seated and that your
print didn’t warp – if it warped, you may be able to use a drill to force the pin holes to line up (drill the
holes in the lower receiver in the direction they need to go to line up with the upper).

With the upper installed, perform a final function check. Your bolt may feel a little tight as it passes over
your hammer – this is normal, but if it bothers you, you can get a lightweight hammer spring. If you
think it might be an issue, put a little grease on the front face of the hammer. You may have the cycle
the gun with a little vigor, depending on how stiff your hammer/disconnector spring is – when firing, this
won’t be an issue, as that is plenty vigorous. Perform a dry-fire/safety test with the selector.

At this point you are ready for final function checks and to go cry about how expensive 32ACP is!

Seat the upper on the lower. Pay attention to make sure the rear of the upper fits inside of the rear hood of the lower, and try to
make the pin holes at the front line up – you will stick your M5 bolt in the side facing the camera in this picture, and your M5 nut
will fit in the recess on the other side. You don’t have to tighten this bolt much, just snug is fine.
FAQ/Troubleshooting

Q: What sort of round counts should I expect? What ends up breaking?

A: Expect at least 1000 rounds. If I had to guess, the rear tower may develop a small crack over time.
With the reinforced front takedown lug, there is no real danger of a bolt flying backward (the upper
can’t hinge open if the tower breaks), so worst case scenario is that the front takedown lug breaks and
your upper falls off forward.

Q: What sort of reliability should I expect?

A: My builds have been extremely reliable. The Vz61 is a sturdy, well designed firearm. The biggest issue
with it comes from it’s magazines – 32ACP is semi-rimmed, which means it doesn’t play very nice in
mags. When loading your magazines, ensure that you never push rounds down on top of each other,
and instead push them in from the front of the mag towards the back – as if it were a single stack
magazine. This helps to avoid getting the rim of an upper cartridge stuck behind the rim of a lower
cartridge (which causes a failure to feed). I tried to get the magwell just tight enough that mags can drop
free (at least on prints that match how my printer turned my receivers out), but still has so little slop
that gripping the gun by the magazine won’t induce feeding issues.

Q: Why is it hard to cock/rack the bolt?

A: This is likely because your fire control group is stiff. Putting a little grease on the front of the hammer
may help some. Cycling vigorously (snapping the bolt back like you would on a 1911 with a stiff recoil
spring) should overcome the drag from the hammer.

Q: What parts kits work?

A: Original/milsurp 32ACP kits will definitely work. I believe that commercial 32ACP kits will also work. I
don’t think 9x17 or 9x18mm kits will work without changing the magwell/mag catch geometry. 22lr kits
should use the receiver found here: https://lbry.tv/@Deterrence-Dispensed:2/Vs22-1.00:0, as the 22lr
kits seem to have differing specs than the 32ACP kits.

Q: What mags work?

A: OEM Vz61 mags work great. I haven’t tested any aftermarket options, and OEM mags are quite
cheap, so try and stick with those.
Q: Why won’t my upper receiver align with my lower receiver?

A: Your receiver may have warped a little during printing. Visually inspect the lower to ensure this isn’t
the case. You may also still have some support material remaining in the cutouts on the lower that the
upper sits inside – ensure that there is no support material left in the tower at the rear of the receiver,
or at the front takedown lug area.