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Core Spun Based Helical Auxetic Yarn: A Novel Structure for Wearable
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Core Spun Based Helical Auxetic Yarn: A Novel

Structure for Wearable Protective Textiles

Bushra Mushtaq, Adnan Ahmad, Zulfiqar Ali, Muhammad Bilal Qadir, Zubair
Khaliq, Muhammad Irfan, M. Waqas Iqbal, Abdul Jabbar, Adeel Zulifqar &
Amir Shahzad

To cite this article: Bushra Mushtaq, Adnan Ahmad, Zulfiqar Ali, Muhammad Bilal Qadir, Zubair
Khaliq, Muhammad Irfan, M. Waqas Iqbal, Abdul Jabbar, Adeel Zulifqar & Amir Shahzad (2022):
Core Spun Based Helical Auxetic Yarn: A Novel Structure for Wearable Protective Textiles, Journal
of Natural Fibers, DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2022.2070322

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JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS
https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2022.2070322

Core Spun Based Helical Auxetic Yarn: A Novel Structure for

Wearable Protective Textiles
Bushra Mushtaq a, Adnan Ahmada, Zulfiqar Alia, Muhammad Bilal Qadir a, Zubair Khaliqa,
Muhammad Irfana, M. Waqas Iqbala, Abdul Jabbara, Adeel Zulifqara,b, and Amir Shahzada,c
a
School of Engineering & Technology, National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan; bWill Way Wellbeing RD
Limited, Hong Kong Science and Technology Park, Shatin, Hong Kong; cInstitute of Textiles and Clothing, The
Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hunghom, Hong Kong

ABSTRACT KEYWORDS
Textile auxetic materials with negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR) have potential Negative Poisson ratio;
applications in protective textile, filtration, and energy absorbance. However, auxetic yarn; protective;
cotton core-spun based auxetic textile is rarely investigated. In this study, Dyneema; elastane; denier
cotton core-spun (Lycra)-based helical auxetic yarn (HAY) was developed, 关键词
and the effects of core filament linear density on the auxetic behavior were 负泊松比; 拉胀纱线; 防护
studied. Core-spun cotton yarns of 8/1 Nec containing core filament (180, 的; 迪尼玛; 弹性纤维; 否认
260, and 420 D) were developed. Then, these core-spun yarns were wrapped 者
with 50 D Dyneema filament at 393 twist/m to make the HAY. The diameter,
NPR, and tensile strength of HAY were increased with increasing linear
density of Lycra filament. Image analysis of HAY containing 420 D Lycra
showed 57% diameter increase with the change in axial strain from 0 to
15 mm. The maximum auxetic behavior with NPR of −3.97 and tensile
strength of 26.71 cN/tex was observed in 420 D Lycra-based HAY. This
study proved that the cotton core spun-based HAY can be produced with
significant auxetic properties for practically potential use in wearable pro­
tective textiles.
摘要
具有负泊松比 (NPR) 的纺织辅助材料在防护织物, 过滤和能量吸收方面有
潜在的应用. 然而, 以棉包芯纱为基础的人造橡胶织物很少被研究. 本研究
开发了以棉包芯纱 (莱卡) 为基础的螺旋型增强子纱 (HAY), 并研究了芯丝
线密度对增强子性能的影响. 开发了含芯丝 (180, 260和420 D) 的8/1 Nec包
芯棉纱. 然后用50D Dyneema长丝以393转/米的捻度包住这些包芯纱, 制成
干草. 干草的直径, NPR和抗拉强度随着莱卡纤维线密度的增加而增加. 对含
有420 D莱卡的干草的图像分析显示, 直径随着轴向应变从0到15mm的变
化而增加57%. 在420 D莱卡干草中观察到NPR为-3.97, 抗拉强度为26.71
cN/tex的最大拉胀行为. 这项研究证明, 棉包芯纺干草具有显著的辅助性能,
在可穿戴防护纺织品中具有潜在的实际应用价值.

Introduction
In recent developments of high-performance textile materials, auxetic materials have attracted
considerable attention due to the exceptional feature of negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR) (Wan et al.
2004). Poisson’s ratio (ʋ) is described as the ratio of transverse strain to the axial strain in the
direction of applied force (Evans et al. 1991). Researchers have discovered a number of natural
and synthetic auxetic materials such as foams (Lakes 1987; Shil and Dа 2004), composites (Cicala

CONTACT Muhammad Bilal Qadir [email protected] National Textile University Sheikhupura Road, Manawala
Faisalabad 37610 Pakistan; Zubair Khaliq [email protected] National Textile University, Sheikhupura Road, Manawala
Faisalabad 37610 Pakistan
Supplemental data for this article can be accessed online at https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2022.2070322
© 2022 Taylor & Francis
2 B. MUSHTAQ ET AL.

et al. ; Evans, Donoghue, and Alderson 2004; Topolov and Bowen 2007), crystals (Keskar and
Chelikowsky 1992; Yeganeh-Haeri, Weidner, and Parise 1992), metals (Alderson and Evans 2008),
ceramics (Ledbetter and Lei 1991), graphite (Evans and Alderson 2000), zeolites (Grima et al.
2007; Rao et al. 2000), and textile (Hu and zulfiqar 2016). Generally, materials exhibit positive
Poisson’s ratio. The material becomes thinner on stretching and shows bulginess when com­
pressed. On the contrary, auxetic materials exhibit the NPR. The material undergoes lateral
expansion when subjected to tensile load and contracts when compressed. This counterintuitive
behavior enhances the fundamental characteristics of auxetic materials such as high indentation
resistance (Coenen and Alderson 2011), shear stiffness (Scarpa and Tomlin 2000), fracture
toughness (Ju and Summers 2011), synclastic curvature (Evans and Alderson 2000), energy
absorption (Lakes and Elms 1993; Scarpa, Ciffo, and Yates 2003), and sound absorption (Scarpa,
Bullough, and Lumley 2005; Scarpa and Smith 2016). These distinctive features make the auxetic
materials superior to the conventional materials, especially in the high-performance end
application.
Auxetic textile materials are emerging materials due to the increased demand for technical textiles.
Moreover, auxetic textiles gained much attention due to the potential applications in protective textile
(blast curtains, anti-vibration gloves, batting gloves, knee pads, wrist bands, helmets, cushions, mats,
and seat belts) (Scarpa et al. 2005) composite textile (wings panels, impact absorbers) (Lira, Scarpa,
and Rajasekaran 2011), and medical textile (artificial grafts, artificial vessels, and sutures) (Dolla,
Fricke, and Becker 2007). Auxetic textiles include auxetic composites, auxetic weaved and knitted
structures, auxetic fibers, and auxetic yarns (Alderson and Alderson 2005). In auxetic fabrics, the scope
is limited due to special auxetic weaved and knitted patterns. However, the auxetic yarn can be used in
multiple weaved and knitted structures to obtain auxetic properties.
The structure of auxetic yarn had been studied in different sequences to develop the NPR. Hook
et al. proposed the helical auxetic yarn (HAY) structure in 2003 (Hook 2003). Double helix auxetic
yarn was manufactured by helically wrapping the UHMWPE wrap filament on the straight core
(spandex) filament (Miller et al. 2009). Later on, the geometry-dependent low stiffed auxetic yarn was
developed (Wright et al. 2012). Two stiff yarns and two core yarns were combined to develop a plied
yarn structure. The results of four plied yarn showed substantial NPR (Ge, Hu, and Liu 2015). Auxetic
composites were developed using three components HAY in which the core component (silicone
rubber) was coated with silicone rubber gel and wrapped with UHMWPE (Zhang, Ghita, and Evans
2015).
In 2015, ring-spun yarn was used for the mass-scale development of auxetic yarn under tension and
also investigated the significant factors which had a direct impact on the auxetic behavior of HAY (Du
et al. 2014). Many researchers developed the HAYs and concluded that the tensile modulus of the wrap
filament, the diameter ratio of core to wrap filament, and wrapping angle are the fundamental features
that affect the auxeticity of the HAYs. Moreover, analytical methods and finite element analysis were
used to investigate the effect of these critical parameters on the auxetic behavior of HAYs (Du, Xu, and
Yu 2010).
Previously developed auxetic yarns consisted of core and wrap components, made of filament
yarns. Almost all the researchers used filaments to study auxetic yarns. The filament yarns limit the use
of auxetic yarns, as few textile products use filament yarns. Second, the majority of the textile industry
uses cotton staple fibers, which provide better comfort properties. The auxetic behavior of yarns
containing staple fibers is rarely studied. This study aims to design and develop the core-spun based
HAY by using the short-staple based core-spun yarn instead of filament.
In HAY, the elastic core component bugles out when the stiffer wrap component imparts a force
on it upon stretching. Thus, the linear density of elastic core filament can be a significant factor that
imparts NPR in HAY. In core-spun based HAY, the elastic core filament is covered and also has less
elongation. So it is crucial to study the effect of core filament linear density on auxetic and
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 3

Table 1. Physical parameters of cotton fiber, Lycra, and

Dyneema filament.
Parameters Values
Average Staple Length (mm) 28.06
Uniformity% 82.2
Strength (gpt) 31.2
Short fiber content (%) 21
Micronaire 4.53
RD 73.2
+b 8.3
Total trash (%) 7.69
Moisture (%) 8.7
Neps (cnt/gram) 171
Tenacity of Lycra 180 D (cN/tex) 8.93
Tenacity of Lycra 260 D (cN/tex) 9.2
Tenacity of Lycra 420 D (cN/tex) 10.01
Tenacity of Dyneema 50 D (cN/tex) 20
Breaking elongation of Lycra 180 D (%) 10.35
Breaking elongation of Lycra 260 D (%) 15.34
Breaking elongation of Lycra 420 D (%) 21.94
Breaking elongation of Dyneema 50 D (%) 4.8

deformation behavior of HAY containing staple fibers like cotton. The developed HAYs can be
effectively used for knee pads, wrist bands, anti-vibration gloves, safety belts, batting gloves, and
helmet pads, etc.

Materials
Cotton fibers, Lycra, and Dyneema filaments were used to produce core-sheath based HAY. Pakistani cotton
was provided by “Crescent Textile Mills limited, Pakistan.” Dyneema filament was supplied by “Midas safety
Pakistan.” Lycra filaments, with different linear densities, were purchased from “Sultani Elasto Products Pvt
Ltd, Pakistan.” The physical parameters of cotton fibers, Dyneema, and Lycra filament are given in Table 1.

Experimental procedure
The structure of HAY consisted of two components: one is a base yarn and the other is a wrap yarn.
The development of HAY consisted of two phases. In the first phase, base yarn was produced, and the
wrapping procedure was done in the second phase.

Base yarn development

A core-spun yarn was used as a base yarn where Lycra filament was used as the core, and the sheath
consisted of staple cotton fibers. The cotton fibers were opened in the blow room (Rieter blow room line,
Switzerland) and carded at the carding machine (Rieter C-70, Switzerland) to produce the carded sliver.
This carded sliver was processed through the draw frame (Rieter RSB D22, Switzerland) for the pre-
drawing procedure. This pre-drawn sliver was further processed on the draw frame (Rieter RSB D24,
Switzerland) for better parallelization of cotton fibers in the finished sliver. The sliver was then proceeded
on the roving frame (Toyota FL-200, Japan) and produced the 0.73 Nec (English count) hank roving.
This roving was fed to the ring frame (Toyota RY-5) with Lycra attachment. Lycra filaments of 180 D, 260
D, and 420 D were covered with cotton roving on ring frame. Multiple 8/s yarns (English count) were
developed with 4.65 TM and 3.5 Lycra draft containing different linear densities of Lycra filaments.
4 B. MUSHTAQ ET AL.

Figure 1. Schematic diagram of “Agteks 2C6” doubling and twisting machine.

Auxetic yarn development

HAY of 7 Nec was developed on “AGTEKS Direc Twist-2C6” doubling and twisting machine.
Dyneema filament was wrapped on the base yarn at 393 twists/m at the twisting speed of 5,000
twists/min in the Z twist direction. The systematic diagram of the “Agteks Direc Twist 2C6“ machine
is shown in Figure 1.
In all the HAYs samples, the minimum percentage of cotton was 82.51% and was maximum of
89.57% indicating that cotton is the major part of HAYs. The higher part of cotton implies that these
HAYs can be used in common textile applications. Almost all of the HAYs produced in literature were
filament-based which restricted their use in practice textile applications.

Characterization
The tensile strength and breaking elongation% of the HAYs were measured on “LLOYD universal
tensile strength testing machine (Lloyd Instruments Ltd, USA)” according to ASTM D 2256.
Auxeticity of the yarn was characterized in terms of axial and lateral strain. A 10 cm yarn strand
was cut and fixed it in the jaws of the universal tensile strength tester. A high-resolution digital
microscope connected with the computer was set in front of the tensile strength tester. HAYs were
stretched at 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, and 21 mm, and the force against each stretching level was noted. At the
same time, the microscope captured the images at each strain level. The captured images were
imported to Image J 1.38e /java 1.5.0_09 software (64 bit mode) to calculate the average HAY diameter
at each strain level. These diameter values gave the lateral strain value. Then, Poisson’s ratio was
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 5

calculated from the axial and lateral strains. The HAY diameter at the original state was D0 without
stretch, and D was in the stretched state. Then the lateral strain (ey) was calculated by using
Equation (1).
D D0
ey ¼ (1)
D0
The HAY length at the original state was L0 without stretch and in the stretched state was L. Then, the
longitudinal strain (ex) was calculated through Equation (2)
L L0
ex ¼ (2)
L0
Then, the Poisson’s ratio (v) of HAY was calculated by using Equation (3)
ey
v¼ (3)
ex
Minitab is a measurable computer program that helps in taking out the complexities of measurable
calculation. It gives a simple to utilize interface to calculate and draw different charts. A few of the
complex topics such as regression analysis, capability investigation, control charts, and design of
experiment gives straightforward to utilize collaborator. “Minitab 17” statistical software was used for
regression analysis of the results by using a fitted line plot technique.
In this technique, the linear regression model was used to analyze the data. In the model, the value
of R2 is a statistical measure of how close the data are to the fitted regression line. The value of R2 lies
between 0 to 100%. The higher the R2 value, the better the model fits the data. The value of R2 was
calculated by “Pearson correlation.”

Results and discussion

Diameter variation of HAYs
Figure 2 shows the microscopic images of HAYs, containing 180 D Lycra filament, at different axial
strain levels. It can be observed that HAY diameter increases with increasing the level of axial strain
(Zhou and Du 2013). The HAYs have the diameter of 0.409, 0.417, 0.450, 0.489, 0.537, 0.541, 0.528,
0.521 mm at 0, 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18 &21 mm axial strain respectively.
The change in axial strain from 0 to 15 mm causes a 32% increase in diameter. This is because of the
reason that upon stretching, the position interchange occurs between the base and wrap components.
The wrapped filament straightens, and the helical form of the base yarn increases the diameter of HAY,
as shown in Figure 3.
Further increase in the axial strain, beyond 15 mm, results in diameter reduction due to the
breakage of stiffer wrap filament. The magnifying images are clearly showing the wrap filament
breakage in Figure 4.
A similar effect was observed with 260 and 420 D, as shown in Figures 5 and 6, respectively. In
HAY-containing 260 D Lycra filament, the diameter increases by 37% with changing axial strain from
0 to 15 mm. In HAY-containing 420 D Lycra filament, the diameter increases by 57% with changing
axial strain from 0 to 15 mm.
Figure 7 shows the effect of Lycra filament linear density on the HAYs diameter at different axial
strains. The curve indicates that the wrap filament migrates to the base yarn during the stretching
process. The base yarn takes the helical form, and the wrap filament straightens upon stretching, as
shown in Figure 2.
The base yarn helical shape increases the HAY diameter upon stretching. The 420 D Lycra is thicker
and softer than that of 180 and 260 D; that is why it will show more increase in diameter upon stretching.
Owing to the higher elongation of thicker Lycra denier, the wrapped filament required more force for
6 B. MUSHTAQ ET AL.

Figure 2. Microscopic images of HAYs having 180 D Lycra.

Figure 3. Schematic diagram of HAY (a) under zero strain (b) under maximum strain.
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 7

Figure 4. Magnifying microscopic images showing breakage of wrap filament (a) (HAY containing 180D Lycra filament, (b) HAY
containing 260D Lycra filament, and (c) HAY containing 420D Lycra filament.

Figure 5. Microscopic images of HAYs having 260 D Lycra.

position interchanging with the base yarn. As wrap yarn exerts more force on thicker base yarn, so it will
show a more bulginess effect. It was also observed that the cotton staple fibers did not have any negative
impact on the auxetic effect. Cotton fibers provide comfort without affecting the auxetic properties.
8 B. MUSHTAQ ET AL.

Figure 6. Microscopic images of HAYs having 420 D Lycra.

Figure 7. Effect of core filament linear density on HAY diameter.

Poisson’s ratio calculation of HAY

The values of axial strain, lateral strain, and maximum Poisson’s ratio values are given in Table 2. The
maximum diameters were achieved at 15 mm axial strain and maximum NPR was achieved at 12 mm
axial strain due to change in the structure before breakage, as shown in Figure 2.
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 9

Table 2. Axial strain, lateral strain, and Poisson’s ratio values of HAY.
Filament linear density (D) Axial ∆l (mm) Lateral ∆d (mm) Axial ∆l/l0 = ex Lateral ∆d/d0 = ey Poisson’s ratio -ey/ex
180 12 0.128 0.12 0.31 −2.61
260 12 0.155 0.12 0.35 −2.94
420 12 0.236 0.12 0.48 −3.97

Figure 8. (a) (a) Effect of core filament linear density on axial/lateral strain (b) Effect of core filament linear density Poisson’s ratio of
HAYs/(c) Comparison of the actual and predicted NPR of HAY.

The HAYs have NPR of −2.61, −2.94, and −3.97 at 180, 260, and 420 D Lycra, respectively.
10 B. MUSHTAQ ET AL.

Figure 9. (a) Effect of core filament linear density on HAY tensile strength. (b) Comparison of the actual and predicted tensile
strength of HAYs.

Figure 8(a) shows the effect of Lycra linear density on the axial and lateral strain. The curve shows
that increasing the axial strain increases the lateral strain of HAYs. This is because the yarn is laterally
expanded with increasing axial strain.
Figure 8(b) shows the effect of Lycra linear density on Poisson’s ratio of HAYs. The curve in
Figure 8(b) can be divided into two zones. In the first zone, the Poisson’s ratio is negative, which
means that the yarn is laterally expanded with the increasing strain. This is because of the inter­
changing position between base yarn and wrap filament. In the second zone, the value of NPR was
decreased due to the breakage of stiffer wrap filament.
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 11

The graph shows that Poisson’s ratios increased with the increase in core filament linear density.
This is because coarse Lycra gives more lateral strain than the finer denier and leads to higher NPR.
Coarse Lycra denier has high diameter than a fine denier. This high diameter results in a higher lateral
strain which leads to a higher NPR value. NPR was increased until the wrap yarn breaks. After that,
NPR was decreased due to the less bulging effect. The value of NPR was increased by 34% with the
increase in base yarn Lycra denier from 180 to 420.
Figure 8(c) shows the comparison of the actual and predicted NPR of HAY. In Equation 4 NPR is
the dependent variable and Lycra filament linear density in the base yarn is the independent variable.
This equation can be effectively be used to predict the NPR value at different Lycra linear densities.
In regression Equation (4)

NPR ¼ 0:00577D 1:517 (4)

D = Lycra filament linear density in base yarn.

The R2 value of 99% shows that the HAY’s NPR has a strong positive correlation with the linear
density of the base yarn. Overlapping of the actual and predicted values indicates that the regression
equation provides a real-time estimate of the NPR by varying linear density in base yarn.

Tensile strength of HAY

Figure 9(a) shows the effect of core filament linear density on the tensile strength of HAY. In the stress/
strain curve, two peaks occur. The first peak occurs when the wrap filament breaks, and the second
peak occurs when the base yarn breaks. Base yarn containing 180 D Lycra filament shows the 21.87 cN/
tex tensile strength at the first peak and 4.75 cN/tex at the second peak. Base yarn containing 260
D Lycra filament shows the 23.27 cN/tex tensile strength at first peak and 5.62 cN/tex at the second
peak. Base yarn containing 420 D Lycra filament shows the 26.71 cN/tex tensile strength at first peak
and 8.19 cN/tex at the second peak.
The stress/strain curve can be divided into three stages. In the first stage, HAY shows a small
extension at a high load. The position interchange between the wrap filament and the base yarn occurs
during this stage (Chen and Du 2019). Dyneema filament wraps the base yarn. When the load is
applied, the Dyneema filament straightens from its helical form. Consequently, base yarn obtains the
helical structure due to low stiffness. At this point, the load is resisted by the filament, which eventually
breaks with increasing load.
In the second stage, there is a sharp fall in load as wrap filament breaks. At the third stage, only the
base yarn resists the strength. The base yarn shows a more considerable extension due to Lycra in the
base yarn. After that, the complete rupture is achieved. Results show that the HAY tensile strength
increases with increasing the Lycra linear density. As the Lycra linear density was increased the force
bearing area was also increased. The force was distributed on the whole surface and it will increase the
force bearing capacity of the HAY. The tensile strength increases by 18.12%, with increasing base yarn
linear density from 180 to 420D.
Figure 9(b) shows the comparison of the actual and predicted tensile strength of HAYs. In
regression Equation (5)

Tenacity ¼ 0:0232D þ 18:3 (5)

D is the Lycra filament linear density in base yarn.

The R2 value of 99.7% shows that HAY tensile strength has a strong positive correlation with the
linear density of Lycra in base yarn. Overlapping of the actual and predicted R2 indicates that the
regression equation provides a good estimate of the tensile strength by varying denier in base yarn.
12 B. MUSHTAQ ET AL.

Conclusions
HAYs were manufactured by wrapping a stiffer wrap filament (50D Dyneema) on base yarn (8/1 core-
spun yarn having 180, 260, and 420 D Lycra) at 393 twist/m. The maximum diameters of 0.541 mm,
0.601 mm, and 0.647 mm were achieved with HAYs containing 180 D, 260 D, and 420 D Lycra
filament. The NPR value −2.61, −2.94, and −3.97 were achieved with HAY’s containing 180 D, 260 D,
and 420 D Lycra filaments, respectively. The stress-strain curves of HAYs indicated that HAYs had
two peaks during the stretching process. Size of the two peaks related to the HAY composition. It was
found that wrap yarn is always broken before the base yarn, due to less elongation. Tensile strength
21.87 cN/tex, 23.27 cN/tex and 26.71 cN/tex were achieved with HAY’s containing 180 D, 260 D, and
420 D Lycra filaments, respectively. It was concluded that tensile strength and NPR of HAYs are
increased by increasing the Lycra linear density. The Coarser Lycra denier based sample exhibited high
value of NPR. Moreover, owing to the cotton fiber comfort and high value of NPR, the developed
samples could have potential application in wearable protective textiles.

Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

ORCID
Bushra Mushtaq http://orcid.org/0000-0003-2774-6913
Muhammad Bilal Qadir http://orcid.org/0000-0003-4571-5328

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