Technical Manual Rev 121021
Technical Manual Rev 121021
BlueWater traces its roots to a family-owned business that began manufacturing ropes
and cordage in 1903. Our modern history began in 1969 when we manufactured the first
American-made kernmantle caving rope. This rope went on to become the now famous
BlueWater II +Plus™. The standard in quality and durability. In 1975 we introduced the first
synthetic low elongation rope for fire and industrial high-rise rescue. Synthetic nylon fiber was a
radical departure from the norm of one inch manila ropes that were in use. Our UL Classified
NFPA 1983, as incorporated in the current edition of NFPA 2500, life safety ropes have become
the most widely used ropes of this type in the country and are the first choice of fire and rescue
groups around the world. We followed in 1982 with the first commercially available line of UIAA
certified dynamic climbing ropes made in the U.S.A. These ropes rapidly gained popularity with
climbers due to their unsurpassed quality and performance.
In 1995 BlueWater became the first American manufacturer in our industry to obtain ISO 9000
Certification. ISO 9000 is an internationally recognized Quality Management system. It insures
the highest possible quality in manufacturing and service. Constant monitoring of raw materials,
component parts and in-line processes by our fully equipped laboratory is an essential part of our
ISO Program. This guarantees no deviation in the manufacturing process. The ISO program
requires substantial dedication from BlueWater but we know it is worth the effort. It insures you
are receiving undeniably the best products available today. The entire program is third party
certified to meet the rigid ISO standards guaranteeing our quality system is everything we say it
is.
This Technical Manual is a result of BlueWater’s commitment to the highest of standards. Within
these pages we hope you are able to find answers to your questions. We wish to provide you
with the technical information necessary to make wise decisions in purchasing your climbing
equipment.
Competent, Professional instruction must be obtained for proper use techniques of any and all
equipment from BlueWater. For Professional instruction contact:
Tel 303-271-0984
www.amga.com
email [email protected]
BlueWater ropes fulfill all of these requirements by providing individual models; each
designed to give outstanding performance in their own applications. This allows a climber to have
different ropes available for specific applications.
Rope Construction:
Light weight, low impact force, high fall rating, handle-ability, durability = value
BlueWater climbing ropes use kernmantle construction. A kernmantle rope consists of a twisted
core (kern) with a sheath (mantle) braided around it. The unique blend of our core and sheath
construction as well as the dynamic characteristics of the nylon yarn used allows BlueWater
dynamic ropes to elongate and absorb the energy of a fall. The rope's sheath is braided tightly
around the core to protect it from abrasion. This also gives it a surface texture that is easy to
handle and runs smoothly through carabiners and across rock. This combination of core and
sheath construction creates the balance of strength, abrasion resistance, and dynamic load
absorbing ability necessary to meet the demands of today's high performance climbing.
Sheath Construction A climbing rope's sheath can be made in different thicknesses and
braid patterns to achieve desired durability and handling characteristics. Four and Five-ply yarns
(more strands of nylon) are used in a rope's sheath whenever greater durability and increased
abrasion resistance are needed. Three-ply yarns are used when a lighter weight rope is desired.
We use 40 and 48 carrier braiders to make recreational dynamic ropes because they are best
suited for making the tightly braided sheath needed on a dynamic rope. A tight sheath creates a
firmer, more durable rope. A loose sheath makes a rope more flexible but also less abrasion
resistant.
Tightly braided "double-pick" [simple braid] sheaths slip very little on the core and add firmness
to the overall flex of a climbing rope. "Single-pick" [twill braid] braid patterns create a smooth
outer finish that slides easily through carabiners and over rock.
Core Construction:
Before twisted core technology was developed, climbing ropes used braided cores. Braided cores
were eventually found to be less efficient in energy absorption than the newer twisted cores.
Braided cores can have an initially low impact force. However, with each successive fall, the
impact force increases dramatically. BlueWater's twisted cores maintain a low impact force
throughout the life of the rope.
The core of the rope absorbs the majority of the energy of a fall; however, the sheath plays a
part as well. The mechanical action of the core strands untwisting, the nylon fibers stretching and
the core moving within the sheath are all things that contribute to a rope's ability to absorb safely
the energy of a fall.
This finish effectively increases the amount of time it takes for the rope to absorb water. In a
one-hour laboratory submersion test, Double-Dry allowed less than 10% moisture absorption,
compared to other "dry" finishes that allowed over 40%.
Ropes become considerably heavier and weaker when they get wet; and, in cold
weather, freezing can make them completely unmanageable. In actual use a rope gets tied and
untied, flexed, stretched, rappelled on and piled up on the ground. All of this handling can work
moisture into the open spaces between the fibers of a rope. This is why "dry" ropes sometimes
still get wet in the field. The more effective a rope's waterproof treatment is, the longer it will
resist absorption of water into the nylon fibers. This means that even though moisture may get
trapped within the braid, the fibers themselves will not absorb water. As a result, the Double-Dry
rope will be less likely to get wet initially and will dry out faster than ropes with inferior water
repellent treatments.
BlueWater's standard finish ropes do not have a water repellent coating. These ropes can
be used in any situation where the rope is not exposed to excessive moisture or freezing.
Because standard finish ropes do not go through a special treatment process. They are a less
expensive alternative to our Double-Dry finished ropes.
Half ropes must also sustain 5 test falls on a single strand with a drop weight of 55 kg.
They can be used as a single rope when the fall factor is less than 1. In the event of a serious
fall, the necessary safety factors can only be achieved when the rope is used double. The double-
rope technique is where each strand is clipped separately through different runners, giving two
distinct very light single ropes. The greatest advantage of this technique is it provides less risk of
total rope system failure.
Twin ropes are tested with a drop weight of 80 kg on two strands together and must
survive 12 test falls. The twin-rope technique, when used correctly, provides the highest safety
margin in event of a fall. In this technique both ropes are clipped together through the same
carabiners where they act as a stronger, safe single rope.
Test parameters
Any climbing rope carrying this certification meets all the minimum safety standards set
by the EC under the rope norm EN 892 and/ or UIAA 101 (Union Internationale Des Association
D'Apinisme). Single and Twin ropes must exhibit less than 12 kN impact force (8kN for Half
ropes) and hold at least five test falls (12 drops for Twin ropes) without breaking in order to
meet the minimum standard.
Impact Force Probably the most important single statistic on the hangtag, this figure is
an accurate indication of how much force a rope is able to absorb. Since Impact Force is the
maximum load transmitted to the climber and his protection, the lower this number, the better.
The UIAA standard for maximum impact force, measured on the first test drop, is 12 kN (2697
lbf.) for a single rope and 8 kN (1798 lbs.) for half ropes. In the UIAA test a rope may stretch up
to 40% of its total length to absorb this force.
Fall factor – f: The fall factor is the ratio of the length of the fall taken by the climber
to the length of rope in use. The formula to determine fall factors is the distance of the fall,
divided by the amount of rope out from the belay. Fall factor 2 - when the fall is double the
length of the rope in use - is the extreme case.
Dynamic elongation: This is measured on the first fall of a drop test. The dynamic
elongation must be less than 40%.
Static Elongation: This is the percentage of a rope's length it will stretch when
Knot flexibility – K: A right hand overhand knot is tied into the rope and a left hand
overhand knot tied 250 below. The rope is loaded to 10 kg for one minute. Each knot’s interior
diameter is then measured under a 1 kg load. The average of the interior of the hold must be
less than the diameter of the rope. This testing is no longer a requirement of the standard but it
is included for reference as to one method to determine flexibility of various ropes.
Sheath slippage – S: 2 meters of rope is pulled through the sheath slippage apparatus
5 times. The sheath slippage must not exceed 20 mm.
Number or falls Held in the UIAA test, an 80 kg weight is dropped 4.8 meters on 2.5 meters of
rope repeatedly at five minute intervals until the rope breaks. To meet the UIAA standard a rope
must survive a minimum of five test falls. This test is a factor 1.78 fall, simulating a short, severe
climbing fall. It represents a theoretical "worst case" fall combining impact forces with a static
belay and the effect of a standard carabiner edge. Since all ropes carrying the UIAA mark is
tested the same, this number (UIAA Test Falls Held) indicates a performance comparison that
can be made between different climbing ropes.
Actual climbing falls taken will most likely not be as severe as the UIAA test fall, so the
number of UIAA falls held does not necessarily indicate the time at which a rope needs to be
retired.
The Fall Factor is a number that can be determined theoretically; but, because of the
dynamics of the many different variables that affect an actual climbing situation, it is difficult to
determine accurately in a real life-climbing fall. The formula to determine fall factors is the
distance of the fall, divided by the amount of rope out from the belay.
Examples:
Factor 2 Fall: The climber climbs ten feet above his belayer and falls off. The total
distance of the fall is twenty feet and there is ten feet of rope available to absorb the energy
created by the fall. A 20 ft. fall with 10 ft. of rope out = a factor 2 fall.
Factor 1 Fall: A climber climbs ten feet and clips a bolt. He/She climbs another ten feet
and falls off. The total distance of the fall is twenty feet and there is twenty feet of rope available
to absorb the energy created by the fall. A 20 ft. fall with 20 ft. of rope out = a factor 1 fall.
Factor .67 Fall: If, however, the climber climbs 10 ft. and clips a bolt, climbs another 10
ft. and clips a second bolt, then climbs another 10 ft. and falls off, he/she would fall a distance of
20 ft. with 30 ft. of rope available to catch the fall. The fall factor in this case is .67. In this
scenario there is more rope available to absorb the energy of the fall. A 20 ft. fall with 30 ft. of
rope out = a factor .67 fall.
Many variables are present in an actual climbing situation, making it almost impossible to
determine the actual factor of any given climbing fall. A fall on steep overhanging terrain, where
In sport climbing, a climber will often take many repeated short falls on protection, 30 or
40 feet out from the belay. This is probably the harshest kind of use a rope will receive. The fall
factor here is very small. However, with each fall the rope is stretched over the karabiner's edge,
using up a little of its ability to absorb energy. This tends to wear out more quickly the 10 to 20
feet at each end of the rope over the rest of the rope. High abrasion, stiffening and sheath
slippage are all signs of this kind of wear. One of the reasons longer (60 m) ropes have recently
become popular is that they can be shortened as the ends wear, extending the life of the rope.
Remember that repeated falls take a toll on the entire rope; so removing worn ends is not the
same as replacing the rope.
We conducted sample testing (Test #0425) to simulate the short falls a climber would
take on a rope in a situation like this. This test was done on our standard UIAA test tower using a
10.5 mm rope. We dropped an 80 kg weight 1.6 meters on 2.5 m of rope. (fall factor .64). in an
attempt to simulate a short leader fall or the type of fall that would be experienced in a ropes
course. Our findings indicated that after 25 drops the rope retained approximately 68% of its
total strength. After 50 drops this changed to 60%. After 100 drops the strength fell to 48% and
125 drops lessened the rope's strength to 37%.
At 75 drops the rope showed its first sign of core damage (one broken core strand) and
at 100 drops there were three broken core strands. It cannot be assumed that this strength loss
will be linear; it can vary widely, particularly after the 100-drop level has been reached.
Meaning of Markings:
Our Dynamic Ropes are marked with one of the following symbols:
▪ 1 SINGLE ROPE - for use in a single strand as a link in the safety chain.
▪ 1/2 HALF ROPE - for use together with another rope of the same type in a half rope
system. Alternately clipped.
▪ 00 TWIN ROPE - use in pairs and parallel within a twin rope system. Clipped parallel
▪ CE- Signifies conformity to the European directive.
▪ 2797 certifying body ie. The firm who certifies the manufacturer’s quality program
▪ EN-892 - European norm for dynamic mountaineering ropes.
NOTE: Double ropes and half ropes must always be used in pairs.
Repeated falls over a carabiner such as commonly occur in sport climbing will also
contribute to wearing out a rope. With these falls continually taken at the same spot, the rope
will quickly show wear to both the sheath and core. Abrasion to the sheath, the sheath being
pushed along the core and core strands stretching or breaking are all examples of the kind of
wear a rope subjected to these conditions will exhibit.
The tighter radius a rope is bent around, the more wear a rope will sustain. Smaller
radius carabiners and figure eight 8s are harder on ropes than larger radius ones. A rappel rack
with brake bars utilizes the greatest amount of friction with a minimum of bending the rope
around a radius and causes the least amount of wear on a rope.
It is important to realize that no climbing rope will last forever even when subjected to normal
use. Just as climbing shoes eventually wear out, so will a climbing rope. Careful handling and
attention as well as recording a rope's history in the user log will help determine when it is time
to retire a rope.
Inspect your rope regularly It is important to inspect your rope before and after each
use. It is the user's responsibility to know the history of his/her rope and to make the decision as
to when the rope should be retired.
Sheath damage is the most common cause for early rope retirement. Special care should
be taken to protect your rope from abrasion. This occurs most often when your rope, under
tension, comes into contact with rough or sharp edges. Using rope protectors and carabiners with
hooded gates help to minimize this problem. Remember, a rope under tension will always be
more susceptible to damage than one that is not. Heat generated from friction created when
rappelling or lowering, can cause glazing and abrasion to the sheath of a rope as well. Rappelling
should always be done slowly and in control to prevent this kind of damage from occurring.
Multiple short falls will eventually wear out both the core and sheath of your rope.
"Mileage" is the determining factor here, not time. Depending upon the number of falls taken, a
rope can wear out rapidly or last many years. Remember, a rope's ability to absorb energy
diminishes each time it is subjected to a load.
Always use proper rappelling and belaying techniques Fast rappels, bounding and
swinging, running the rope over a sharp edge etc., are all things that can potentially damage
your rope. Any belay or rappel device puts sharp bends in a rope and will contribute to the
potential abrasion your rope receives. Some belay devices will abrade a rope more quickly than
others. The sharper the bends, the faster a rope will wear.
Fast rappels create excessive heat from friction that your rappel device cannot always
dissipate. This heat can melt the nylon on the surface of the sheath causing a "glazing" effect,
dramatically shortening the life of your rope. Always take care to rappel and lower climbers
Avoid stepping on your rope. Besides the potential of cutting, stepping on a rope will
grind dirt into the core and increase the possibility of internal abrasion.
Protect your rope from exposure to harsh chemicals. Do not allow your rope to come into
contact with any compounds containing acids, alkalis, oxidizing agents or bleaching compounds.
Be especially careful to avoid contact with battery acid or fumes.
To help protect a rope from coming into contact with unidentified chemicals, always store
and transport it in a rope bag.
Testing done indicates salt water, acetone, benzene, chloroform, Freon, gasoline,
kerosene, motor oil, mineral oil, paints and pine oil do not appreciably affect nylon and should
not damage your rope.
Laboratory tests performed have shown no appreciable damage done to nylon fibers by
contact with insect repellents containing DEET (Test #0559).
Keep your rope clean. Dirt can shorten the life of your rope by increasing internal and
external abrasion. It is a good idea to occasionally wash a rope to remove dirt and rock crystals.
Put the rope in a pillowcase or washing bag and use a front loading machine with cold water only
to prevent shrinkage. It is acceptable to use a mild soap to remove oil or grease but avoid harsh
detergents. DO NOT USE BLEACH OR BLEACH SUBSTITUTES. Make sure to rinse thoroughly.
Small amounts of fabric softener may be used to give better flexibility and a softer hand as a
rope stiffens with use. Your rope should be air dried away from direct sunlight. It will not harm a
rope to store it wet. Nylon is not affected by water and will not rot or mildew.
Know when to retire your dynamic rope. Excessive sheath abrasion is the most obvious
clue to indicate time for rope retirement. The repeated short falls taken in sport climbing are the
most common cause of this abrasion. Damage from carabiner gates, sharp edges, rough rock
surfaces and glazing from fast rappels and sheath slippage should also be watched for. If the
rope's sheath is badly glazed, excessively abraded or showing through to the core, it is time to
retire it.
Soft, hollow, or lumpy spots in the rope can indicate internal core damage. If any of
these are found, the rope should be retired.
Often the 10 or 20 feet of rope on either end will wear out before the rest of the rope. It
is acceptable to remove these damaged ends and continue to use the rest of the rope.
Remember that repeated falls take a toll on the entire rope, so removing worn ends is not the
same as replacing the rope.
The following are general guidelines that can assist in deciding when to retire a rope:
▪ Sheath wear- the core is exposed or more than half of the outer sheath yarns
are broken or it is badly glazed
Kinking: BlueWater kernmantle ropes use both S and Z-twist core bundles to avoid the uni-
directional twisting that can cause a climbing rope to kink. Normal handling, and modern rappel
and belay devices can all introduce twists into a rope, causing it to kink. The standard practice of
"coiling" a rope for transport and storage compounds this problem. It is important to regularly
remove these kinks by "cleaning" the rope from its coil into a pile, flipping the kinks out the end
before each use. Periodically hanging the rope and flipping out the kinks when rappelling also
helps. Storing and carrying your rope in a bag also helps minimize kinking.
In any case, the actual working life of the rope should never exceed 5 years.
The rope is personal equipment and it is the user’s responsibility to know the history of his/her
rope. During any use away from you the rope may be subject to grave damage that could be
invisible. Ropes must be destroyed upon retirement to prevent future use.
Rope types
Accessory cords- are just that- they should never be used for a main line.
The smallest diameter we recommend for life support use is 8mm canyon pro. Three important
reasons: 1. the minimum acceptable tensile strength for NFPA ropes is 4500 lbf., OSHA standards
are 5000 lbf., the minimum acceptable diameter for Personal Escape rope is 7.5mm. Suggestions
if someone must have a small diameter rope- 8mm canyon pro series, 9.2 canyon series, 9.5
BWII, 10.1 Big Wall.
Dynamic- For uses when the load/ person is above the anchor point ie. If he/ she falls, the rope
catches the person. See recreational catalog for the use chart for “sport, trad, wall etc.”.
SMU- special make up or custom- This can be from a cosmetic part to a load bearing rope or
sewn product. We are a specialty rope manufacturer so just because it is not on the price list
does not mean we don’t or won’t make it.
Rope Construction
BlueWater static ropes use a kernmantle construction similar to our dynamic climbing ropes.
Their neutral twist and excellent flexibility allow them to knot easily and handle better than other
static ropes. Ropes become difficult to manage as they stiffen with use. BlueWater ropes remain
flexible longer increasing their useful life.
The kernmantle construction used in these ropes features a double-twist cable core for low static
elongation and resistance to spinning while ascending or descending, yet will elongate to absorb
energy in the event of an accidental dynamic loading. We use a 16 and 32 strand sheaths. This
gives our ropes greater durability and abrasion resistance than conventionally designed
commercial ropes.
7/16" BlueWater ll uses a sheath construction that is almost twice the thickness of other static
ropes available. By combining this thicker sheath design with the dynamic load absorbing ability
of our unique double-twist cable core, BlueWater static ropes are four times more resistant to
cutting and abrasion than conventionally constructed ropes with parallel strand cores.
Superior handling characteristics, resistance to both abrasion and cutting over an edge, and
increased protection from bodily injury and anchor failure make BlueWater static ropes superior
to conventional static ropes in all respects.
High tensile strength: The special nylon or polyester sheath combined with BlueWater’s double-
twist continuous strand core gives our ropes superior performance.
Ability to withstand accidental dynamic loading: By using Type Six nylon a double twist
continuous cable core our ropes are able to absorb the energy of accidental dynamic loading (not
uncommon in rappelling, caving or rescue situations) that could otherwise result in individual
injury and rope or anchor failure. LE (Low Elongation) ropes must not be used for lead climbing
or any situation where the user is above the rope anchor point.
Resistance to cutting over an edge: BlueWater’s double twist core and 16 strand sheath work
together to make our ropes four times more resistant to cutting over an edge than ropes with
thinner sheaths and simple single twist sheath/core construction.
High abrasion resistance: no blow out—BlueWater ropes have an approximate 50/50 sheath to
core ratio for a durable, balanced construction.
Resistance to spinning: By utilizing kernmantle construction with core strands that have opposing
twists, we prevent unnecessary spinning when a load is applied.
Superior handling characteristics: Special low-shrink yarns and our unique type of kernmantle
construction give BlueWater ropes handling characteristics that are superior to other ropes
available today. BlueWater ropes are constructed to remain flexible, increasing the useful life of
the rope as well as providing superior handling and knot-holding ability
Inspect your rope regularly. Prior to use or reuse of the rope the rope must meet the following
conditions.
post use inspections must be noted in the accompanying rope log. If your rope does not meet
the following inspection criteria it MUST be retired! This includes all inspection criteria as well as
loss of faith or doubt as to the serviceability for the rope. Destroy rope by cutting into lengths too
short for further use.
When to retire your rope - The following are general guidelines that can assist you in deciding
when to retire a rope. If your rope has any of the following characteristics it must be retired:
INSPECTION CRITERIA
▪ Abrasion/Sheath Wear - The core is exposed or more than half of the outer sheath yarns are
abraded.
▪ Fraying indicates broken or damaged sheath bundles which indicates abrasion or
overloading.
▪ Glazing and/or glossy marks or hard, stiff areas that signify heat damage. Discoloration, a
change in the ropes original color is an indication of chemical damage or overexposure to
the elements of nature including UV radiation.
▪ Exposed Core Fibers indicate severe sheath damage and possible core damage.
▪ A Lack of Uniformity in Diameter or Size indicates core damage. This is noted by a
depression in the diameter of the rope, lumpiness of the rope or exposure of white core
fibers protruding from the sheath.
▪ Flexibility and/or inconsistency in texture including, but not limited to, stiff or soft areas
signify possible core damage.
▪ Use/Age - the rope is simply worn out from use. We recommend a low elongation/static
rope be removed from service after ten years under ideal use and storage condition.
▪ Loss of Faith - if you feel uncomfortable for any reason or suspect there may be a problem
with your rope it must be retired and destroyed.
Sheath Abrasion Damage - Take special care to protect your rope from abrasion. Sheath damage
is the most common cause of early rope retirement. This damage occurs most often when your
rope comes into contact with rough or sharp edges of equipment. Manmade structures, such as
buildings or towers, also pose a high risk for damaging or cutting ropes due to the probability of
sharp objects. Always use a rope pad between the rope and surfaces with which the rope may
come in contact. Improperly padded or unpadded ropes are subject to excessive or premature
abrasion and failure.
Avoid stepping on your rope - Besides the potential of cutting, stepping on a rope will grind dirt
into the core which will cause internal abrasion. A ground cloth should be used to keep the rope
from being in direct contact with dirt or grit.
Keep your rope clean - Dirt or grit will shorten the life of your rope by increasing internal and
external abrasion. Wash your rope occasionally in cold water with small amounts of mild soap
only. Rinse the rope in several baths of clean cold water to remove soap. Agitate the rope while
in the water bath to aid in the removal of soap residue. The rope must be air dried by loosely
coiling and hanging in the shade away from direct sunlight or other heat sources. DO NOT USE
BLEACH OR BLEACH SUBSTITUTES! DO NOT DRY ROPE IN A DRYER!
Open Flame and High Temperatures - Do not expose any rope to flame or high temperature as it
will melt or burn causing failure. Carry and store the rope so it is protected against flame and
high temperatures. The melting point of Type 6 nylon is 420 to 430 degrees Fahrenheit. The
melting point of polyester is 500 degrees Fahrenheit.
Accidental Dynamic Loading - Although your BlueWater low elongation rope is designed to help
absorb the energy of ACCIDENTAL dynamic loading allowing the user a greater margin of safety,
the user is responsible for checking rigging to avoid dynamic loading in any manner whatsoever.
If an accidental dynamic loading does occur the rope must be retired and destroyed.
Always use proper rappelling and belaying techniques - Fast rappels, bounding or swinging,
positioning the rope over a sharp edge, dynamically loading a low elongation/static rope are
some example of uses which damage your rope and/or cause failure. Any belay or rappel device
puts sharp bends in a rope and will contribute to potential abrasion your rope receives. Avoid
worn out belay devices as they have the potential to cut your rope. Fast rappels will cause
excessive heat from friction that will damage your rope. This heat will melt the sheath fiber
causing a glazing or stiffening effect that dramatically shortens the life of your rope. Always take
care to rappel and lower load slowly and in control.
Chemical Contamination - Protect your rope from exposure to harsh chemicals. Exposure to
chemicals will cause failure that can result in injury or death. DO NOT allow your rope to come
into contact with any compounds containing acids or alkalis, oxidizing agents, phenol or
bleaching compounds. Be especially careful to avoid contact with battery acid. Remember:
Contaminants can be in the form of liquids, solids, mist or vapors. Contamination may or may not
be visible and may not be detectable. If you suspect your rope has been contaminated it must
not be used. It must be destroyed immediately to prevent any use whatsoever.
Warranty Disclaimer: If any of the Safety and/or Inspection Criteria are not met by any
person(s), the Warranty on this product is considered void.
Additional information regarding life safety rope can be found in NFPA 1500, Standard on Fire
Department Occupational Safety and Health Program, and NFPA 1983, Standard on Life Safety
Rope and Equipment for Emergency Services. NFPA Publications from National Fire Protection
Association, 1 Batterymarch Park, Quincy, Massachusetts USA 02169-7471.
ACCESSORY CORDS
BlueWater Accessory Cords Our accessory cords are available in 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, 7
mm, 8 mm and 9 mm diameters. The smallest sizes 3 mm and 4 mm can be used for anything
from zipper pull tabs to nut tool leashes. Sizes 5 mm through 7 mm are commonly used for tying
prussik knots, and sizes 7 mm through 9 mm are most useful for slinging chocks drilled to fit
various size cords. BlueWater accessory cords in sizes 4 mm through 8 mm are UIAA certified.
We recommend joining the ends of nylon accessory cord sling with a double fisherman's knot.
Prusik Cord: 6.5mm, 7mm and 8mm prusik cord combines a dynamic core with a nylon sheath
that allows proper “bite” onto the rope in which the prusik knot is being tied.
Titan Cord® Our Titan accessory cord combines the high strength of DSM Corporation Dyneema
fiber in the core for strength with a 100% nylon sheath for durability.
We always recommend joining the ends of Titan cord slings with a triple fisherman's knot to
minimize any chance of the knot slipping.
WEBBING
Climb-Spec® Webbing
Shuttle loom webbing and needle loom webbing are the two most popular types of tubular
webbing. Shuttle loom technology has been around for many years and is characterized by the
weft filaments joining the warp together by spiraling around the webbing. Needle loom webbing
is characterized by a seam on one side. The original versions of this type of webbing featured a
chain stitch that would unravel like a cheap sweater.
Climb-Spec webbing was designed in 1985 specifically to exceed the requirements of standard
military-spec webbing. We developed this webbing because we felt there was a need in
mountaineering and rescue applications for webbing that was stronger and more resistant to
abrasion and cutting than the standard webbings available at the time.
Current versions of needle loom webbing feature a lock stitch that will not allow it to unravel like
shuttle loom webbing. Needle loom webbing can be produced with greater tensile and knot
strength and greater resistance to cutting and abrasion. As a result, the more efficient needle
looms are gradually replacing the outdated shuttle looms that are no longer being manufactured.
Military specification for one-inch tubular webbing was amended several years ago because of
the fact that needle loom technology is replacing shuttle loom technology. This amendment
added the newer needle loom webbing as being acceptable along with the shuttle loom webbing.
One inch tubular Climb-Spec webbing is useful for tying slings at rappel anchors or as anchors
when top-roping. Its superior strength and resistance to cutting and abrasion make it the perfect
choice for these applications. Our 9/16" tubular Climb-Spec Super Tape is an excellent choice for
tied slings and quick draws. We recommend using a water knot or a double fisherman's knot for
joining the ends of tied slings. Make sure to leave at least a two-inch tail on each knot and check
your knots regularly as they can sometimes loosen up or slip.
Sewn Runners
Tying knots in webbing reduces its overall strength. Bar-tacked runners are not only stronger but
are also less bulky. Shorter sewn runners are used for quick draws and hero loops; longer
runners as slings on circuitous routes and for anchors and top-rope belays. Smaller diameter
webbing is lighter weight and less bulky. Larger size webbing is more durable and longer lasting,
making it great for fixed anchors, top-roping and anywhere durability and long life are desired. If
tying a runner always use a water knot with a half hitch backup.
Climb-Spec® Runners
BlueWater Climb-Spec sewn runners are made with our exclusive Climb-Spec webbing developed
to exceed the requirement of standard military-spec webbing. This needle loom tubular webbing
contains more nylon than standard military spec webbing (made on a shuttle loom) for greater
strength. It uses a double lock-stitch closure to eliminate the problem of unraveling due to
abrasion. 1" width Climb-Spec runners are available in 6", 12", 24", 36" and 48" lengths.
Titan Runners
BlueWater's unique Titan webbing is a lightweight, high-strength webbing made from a
combination of DSM Corporation Dyneema and nylon fibers. This specially designed webbing
offers high strength similar to larger size nylon webbing in the compact, lighter weight of a
smaller size. BlueWater Titan runners are all sewn with Dyneema thread for superior strength.
Titan webbing does not hold knots as well as 100% nylon webbing so it’s only available in sewn
slings.
Titan runners are available in 13mm width in: 6", 12", 24", 36" and 48" lengths.
The following three slings are made from 18 mm Quantum TM webbing, a high-strength, double
thickness, flat webbing.
Quantum Speed Draw One end is bar-tacked to hold a bent gate carabiner in a captive position,
making it easy to clip. The other end is open to accommodate any straight gate carabiner you
wish to use.
Quantum Long Draw At approximately 9" long, this is ideal for awkward clips when other runners
are just too short or long. This is a great addition to a sport climbing rack. Utilizing the speed
draw design, one end is bar-tacked to hold a bent gate carabiner in a captive position, making it
easy to clip. The other end is open to accommodate any straight gate carabiner you wish to use.
Quantum Dog Bone The quick draw is bar-tacked in the middle so there is a small loop on each
end for clipping carabiners. These loops are loose enough to allow flipping the carabiners when
necessary.
The following two slings are made from the same Titan webbing as our Titan runners.
BlueWater 6-Step Etriers These etriers are made from a continuous piece of one-inch webbing
with stiffeners sewn in to the bottom of the steps for ease of access. A hero loop is sewn at the
top for high clips. Available in solid Black or Assorted Colors.
Definitions
Aid Climbing- An ascent style that makes use of the rope or gear to support the climber’s weight.
Anchor-Any tree, block, nut, bolt or other protection device that secures a climber or a team.
Ascender- A piece of gear that enables a climber to ascend a rope. Attached to the rope, it will
grip in one direction and slide in the other.
Block Creel- the use of continuous filament with no splices for manufacturing a rope.
CE- a European quality mark much like UL here in the States. Conformance European is what the
literal translation is.
Closed Strength – This is the strength at which the carabiner failed while the gate was closed and
locked (if applicable).
Core (kern) – This is the inner section of the rope. The majority of the energy of a fall is
absorbed by the core of the rope. At Blue Water our core uses S and Z twist bundles for the
core.
Daisy Chain – A sling sewn or tied with numerous loops, used as an adjustable sling in aid
climbing.
Double-Dry Rope Finish – A process that binds all the ropes fibers in the core as well as the
sheath with a finish that not only repels water but also substantially increases the rope’s
resistance to abrasion.
Double Pick Sheath – also known as a “simple braid”. A process used when constructing the
sheath of the rope in which the sheath is tightly braided to the core with very little slip and has a
textured surface of double alternating strands, making it easy to handle.
Draw, Quickdraw – Short runner with carabiners on either side used when sport, ice, or
traditional climbing.
Fall Factor – A theoretical value that is determined by dividing the distance of the fall by the
amount of rope out from the belay. The dynamics of actual climbing situations make it difficult
to determine an actual fall factor. The UIAA test uses a fall factor 1.78, which illustrates a short,
severe, “worst case” fall. In effect a fall equal to twice the length of rope our [ a 6 foot fall on a 3
foot rope].
Falls Held – The number of falls held before rope failure. In the UIAA test, 80 kg (for single and
twin ropes) and 55 kg (for half ropes) is dropped 5 meters on 2.8 meters of rope
repeatedly over five minute intervals until the rope breaks. The rope must survive a minimum of
five test falls.
Gate Opening – This is the distance measured at the most narrow point between the nose of the
carabiner frame and the open gate.
Half Rope – Each rope is tested individually using a 55 kg drop weight. Used when climbing the
double-rope technique. To obtain maximum protection two half ropes must be used by clipping
each strand alternately while climbing. The greatest advantage is less risk of total system failure.
Hooded Gate – Carabiner gate design that offers increased abrasion protection for the rope by
eliminating the sharp edges found on the inside of conventional carabiner gates.
Hot Forged – Moving metal under pressure at an elevated temperature into a shape designed for
a specific application.
Impact Force – The force transmitted to a climber and his protection during a fall. The maximum
force allowed by UIAA standards is 12 kN for single and twin ropes and (80 kg,176 lbs dropped)
and 8 kN for half ropes (55 kg, 121 lbs dropped).
Kernmantle Rope – A rope consisting of a twisted core (kern) with a sheath (mantle) braided
around it.
Kilonewtons (kN) – Unit of measure. One kilonewton is equal to 224.8 lb force. Dynamic rope
impact measurements use this unit of measure.
Lead Climbing- Style in which the first climber (the leader) places protection as the person climbs
and is belayed from below. The climber is above the anchor point.
Open Strength – The tensile strength of the carabiner while the gate is open.
Ply – This denotes the number of raw yarn strands used when constructing the core bundles and
sheath of the rope. Typically, the number of strands of yarn that are used in constructing the
rope determines certain properties of the finished rope such as durability and handling
characteristics.
Runner – Sewn webbing loop which varies in size from 5 to 48 inches. Sewn loops retain more
overall strength than tying knots in webbing and are less bulky. Shorter runners are used for
quick draws and longer runners are used as slings and anchors and as top-rope belays.
S and Z Twist – A combination of clockwise and counterclockwise twisted core bundles. The S
and Z twist core bundles help absorb energy in a fall and help control spinning while rappelling or
Jumaring. S is twisted Counterclockwise, Z is twisted clockwise.
Safe Working Load (Recommended Working Load) – The maximum load that may be routinely
applied to a component (i.e. rope, draw) in straight tension. This value is chosen based on the
NFPA ratio of 15:1.
Sheath – The sheath is the outer layer of the rope that is designed to give the rope its abrasion
resistance, firmness, and handling characteristics.
Sheath Slippage – The amount of movement of the sheath relative to the inner core of the rope.
Typically only used in reference to dynamic ropes. Climbing gyms see the most cases of rope
sheath slippage due to the specific method of use. A specific section of rope is used many, many
times as the belay section. Belay devices have a tendency to shift sheath yarn.
Single Rope – Single ropes are tested individually using a 80 kg drop weight. Single ropes are
recommended whenever a fall on a single strand can occur.
Spectra Fiber – Extremely light weight nylon fiber that combines high strength, low stretch, light
weight, and high abrasion resistance to provide superior characteristics over other lower cost
“high performance” fibers.
Sport Climbing- Climbing style that features safely equipped routes, on which protection comes
from bolts or other fixed gear.
Standard Rope Finish – A rope that does not have any water repellant coating. These ropes can
be used in any situation where the rope is not exposed to excessive moisture or freezing.
Static Elongation – The percentage of a rope’s length it will stretch when subject to static
loading.
Tensile Strength (Ultimate Strength) – The load at which a component (i.e. rope, draw) will fail in
a test.
Titan – Blue Water’s unique webbing and accessory cord which combines the high strength of
DSM Corporation’s Dyneema fiber with nylon for increased durability, greater strength, decreased
weight, and smaller size.
Twin Rope – Twin ropes are tested together using an 80 kg drop weight. Twin ropes are used
when climbing the twin-rope technique. To obtain maximum protection two twin-ropes must be
clipped into the same runner [parallel] while climbing. When used correctly, this technique
provides the highest margin of safety.
UIAA (Union Internationale Des Association D’Apinisme) – Organization that sets minimum safety
standards for all climbing equipment.
COMMON PROBLEMS
This section will deal with the most common problems end users encounter.
Rope Kinking when new: All ropes are braided into large drums in which the coil lays flat. They
are hand inspected and moved into a second drum. When the second visual and hand inspection
takes place the ropes are coiled onto a hanking stand straight out of the drum. The best way to
uncoil a new rope is the reverse of the factory coil. Place your forearms through the rope so that
they are at opposing ends. Slowly rotate the coil to unwind over end. Let it flake out in the floor
then you can hank your particular style. If you simply lay a new rope on the ground and pull it up
to make a new hank you'll be adding an extra 1/2 turn for each coil pulled, so yes the rope will
become kinky. If you've done this already by mistake simply get on top of a high place [parking
garage, cliff] and lower the rope to its full length and shake the kinks out. They'll come out
easily.
Fuzzy ropes
Dirty Rope and how to wash: Ropes need washing from time to time. There is no set timeframe
due to the hundreds of variable involved with rock type, gear type etc. The best way to wash a
rope is loosely coil it and soak it in a tub full enough to cover the rope. The water temp should be
no more than lukewarm. Do NOT use hot water, your rope may stiffen. Use a mild soap with as
close to neutral pH as possible. Agitate and leave, Agitate and leave. When you believe you
removed the dirt rinse in cold water several time. BE ABSOLUTELY SURE to remove all soap
residue as it will attract dirt faster than when the rope was new. Loosely coil the rope and air dry
in the shade. Wet ropes in car trunks in the southeast U.S.A. have been known to get way hot
and shrink unexpectedly. Please keep this in mind.
Rope Age:
Contaminants: