So Sporty Socks

so_sporty_socks

by keenWhale
2024
 ABBREVIATIONS Yarn
Any standard sock yarn (fingering weight)
RS - Right Side
400-420 m /100 gr.
WS - Wrong Side
st (sts) - stitch (stitches)
Sample used: Arwetta Classic in the Avocado
k - knit
shade
p - purl
sl - slip
wyif - with yarn in front Needle size
wyib - with yarn in back 2.0 mm or bigger
R - Row
dst - double stitch Sample used: ChiaoGoo Red Lace 2.0 mm
k2tog - knit 2 together
ssk - slip, slip, knit
p2tog - purl 2 together Gauge
ssp - slip, slip, purl 44 stitches & 66 rows
tbl - through the back loop in 10 cm

Sample used: ChiaoGoo Red Lace 2.0 mm

Materials
Second set of circular needles (for joining the
cuff)
Crochet hook (for provisional cast-on)
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle

This pattern is designed

for circular needles, but you can
easily adjust it for
double-pointed needles

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 A BRIEF INTRODUCTION BEFORE WE START.

This is my first pattern, and I decided to create it as a detailed textual support to

accompany a very thorough video tutorial (2 parts), the links to which
you will find below.
This pattern is more of a tutorial where I focus a lot
on knitting a sporty cuff with a heel tab, rather than a
guide for multiple sizes.

So Sporty Socks are knit from the cuff down to the toe.
First, we will make a provisional cast-on, knit the beginning of the cuff,
work the heel tab using short rows, finish the second part of the cuff,
and join the provisional cast-on with the main stitches.
Then, we will knit the reinforced heel with a gusset, start the main pattern,
knit the arch support element, continue the pattern, and finish with a wedge toe.

I've made a detailed video covering all the steps of knitting these socks. It turned out
to be quite long! For your convenience, I've divided it into two parts (still pretty long -
I need to work on being more concise! :).
In the pattern description, I've included links to specific timestamps in both parts of
the video to make it easier for you to jump right to the needed sections. However, I
recommend watching both parts in their entirety (even if you fast forward a bit :) ) to
get a complete overview of the process.

For the best viewing experience, please select the

highest video quality by clicking the gear icon
(settings) on the video player and choosing the
highest resolution available.

Video Part #1 - detailed instructions for knitting the cuff with heel tab
https://youtu.be/fOROocESNSc

Video Part #2 - reinforced heel with gusset, beginning of the pattern,

arch support element, continuation of the pattern, wedge toe and closing
the toe with Kitchener stitch
https://youtu.be/6CbfG0H7Fsg

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All pictures and text © keenWhale

4
 In this pattern, the main stitch count is 72 stitches. You can cast on any number of stitches
that you are comfortable with, as long as it is a multiple of three. This is important because the
pattern repeat on the front part of the sock consists of three stitches (and two rows).

PROVISIONAL CAST-ON R1 (RS): knit to the last 5 sts on the needle.

Turn work to the WS
Using a crochet hook, waste yarn, and R2 (WS): sl 1 wyif, pull the yarn to the back
knitting needles, cast on 72 stitches (or any to create a dst. Tighten the stitch, holding it
other multiple of three). with your finger, and purl the next stitch. Purl
Knit one row straight in stockinette stitch. to the last 5 sts on the needle. Turn work to
This is a setup row; it does not count in the the RS.
total row count. R3 (RS): sl 1 wyib, pull the yarn to the front
Join to knit in the round. to create a dst. Hold it with your finger and
knit the next st. Knit to the dst (clearly visible
Watch the video from this moment on the needle). Turn work to the WS.
https://youtu.be/fOROocESNSc?t=85 R4 (WS): sl 1 wyif, pull the yarn to the back
until the 5:00 min point to create a dst. Tighten the stitch, holding it
with your finger, and purl the next st. Purl to
FIRST PART OF THE CUFF
the dst. Turn work to the RS.
R5 (RS): sl 1 wyib, pull the yarn to the front
R 1-11: Knit in the round with knit stitches
to create a dst. Hold it with your finger and
knit the next st. Knit to the dst. Turn work to
HEEL TAB
the WS.

Reset the row counter - the count starts over.

At this point, you should have 5 sts on each
This section is worked on the first
side of the needle not involved in the work
needle (the same needle used later for the
and 2 dst on each side (2 turning points).
heel) using short rows.
R6 (WS): sl 1 wyif, pull the yarn to the back
The height and width of the heel tab can be
to create a dst. Tighten the stitch, holding it
adjusted by increasing or decreasing the
with your finger, and purl the next st. Purl to
number of stitches not involved in knitting or
the dst. Turn work to the RS.
the turning points.
R7 (RS): sl 1 wyib, pull the yarn to the front
to create a dst. Hold it with your finger and
In the sample, I made 4 turning points and 5
knit the next st. Knit to the dst. Turn work to
stitches on each side of the first needle not
the WS.
participate in knitting.
R8 (WS): sl 1 wyif, pull the yarn to the back
Watch the video from this moment to create a dst. Tighten the stitch, holding it
https://youtu.be/fOROocESNSc?t=374
until the 29:30 min point

All pictures and text © keenWhale

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with your finger, and purl the next st. Purl to Knit to the triple stitch. Knit the triple stitch
the dst. Turn work to the RS. through the front loop. Knit the next (double
stitch) through the front loop. Turn work.
Attention: Starting from this row, we will R14 (WS): sl 1 wyif, pull the yarn to the
begin to knit the double stitches, turning them back to create a triple stitch. Hold the stitch
into triple stitches. with your finger, purl the next st. Purl to the
triple stitch. Purl the triple stitch through the
R9 (RS): sl 1 wyib, pull the yarn to the front
back loop. Make sure to catch all three legs of
to create a dst. Hold it with your finger and
the triple stitch. Purl the next (double stitch)
knit the next st.
through the back loop. Turn work.
Check: Now you should have 5 sts not R15 (RS): sl 1 wyib, pull the yarn to the
involved in the work and 4 double stitches on front to create a triple stitch. Hold it with your
each side of the needle (4 turning points). finger and knit the next st. Knit to the triple
stitch. Knit the triple stitch through the front
K to the nearest dst. Knit it as a normal knit loop. Knit the next (double stitch) through the
stitch through the front loop. Make sure to front loop. Turn work.
knit both legs of the dst. Turn work. R16 (WS): sl 1 wyif, pull the yarn to the
R10 (WS): sl 1 wyif, pull the yarn to the
back to create a triple stitch. Hold the stitch
back to create a triple stitch. If you look
with your finger, purl the next st. Purl to the
closely at the stitch, you will see it now has triple stitch. Purl the triple stitch through the
three legs. Hold it with your finger, purl the back loop. Make sure to catch all three legs of
next st. Purl to the dst. Purl the dst through
the triple stitch. Purl the next (double stitch)
the back loop. Make sure to knit both legs of
through the back loop. Turn work.
the dst. Turn work.
R11 (RS): sl 1 wyib, pull the yarn to the
Attention: The next row will be worked in
front to create a triple stitch. Hold it with your
the round. You can reset the row counter.
finger and knit the next st. Knit to the triple This row will be the first of 11 rows for the
stitch. Knit the triple stitch through the front
second part of the cuff.
loop. Knit the next (double stitch) through the
front loop. Turn work. SECOND PART OF THE CUFF
R12 (WS): sl 1 wyif, pull the yarn to the
back to create a triple stitch. Hold it with your R1: sl 1 wyib, pull the yarn to the front to
finger, purl the next st. Purl to the triple create a triple stitch. Hold it with your finger
stitch. Purl the triple stitch through the back and knit the next st. Knit to the triple stitch.
loop. Make sure to catch all three legs of the Knit the triple stitch through the front loop.
triple stitch. Purl the next (double stitch) Knit the last 5 sts on the first needle and all
through the back loop. Turn work. sts on the second needle.
R13 (RS): sl 1 wyib, pull the yarn to the
front to create a triple stitch. Hold it with your R2: knit the first 5 sts. Knit the last
finger and knit the next st. remaining triple stitch through the back loop.
Knit to the end of the row.
Check: Now you should have 5 sts not
involved in the work, 2 double stitches, and 2 R3-11: Knit in the round.
triple stitches on the needle.

All pictures and text © keenWhale

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TRANSFERRING PROVISIONAL CAST- I usually knit the heel on an odd number of
ON STITCHES TO SECOND SET OF stitches, so I transfer the last of 36 stitches
NEEDLES AND JOINING ROW from the first needle to the second needle
Watch the video from this moment
Watch the video from this moment https://youtu.be/6CbfG0H7Fsg?t=36
https://youtu.be/fOROocESNSc?t=1775 until the 0:56 sec point
until the end of video
The number of rows for the heel flap equals
Unravel the chain of stitches from the waste the number of stitches on the needle. If you
yarn until you reach the first stitch of the have an odd number of stitches, knit one
main yarn. Insert the needle into this stitch extra row.
and unravel the waste yarn stitch. Continue In the sample, there are 35 stitches on the
this process, inserting the needle into each needle, so the total number of rows will be 35
subsequent main yarn stitch while unraveling + 1 = 36.
the waste yarn stitch, until all stitches are
transferred to the needles. Distribute the R1 (RS): k1 (on the first row, knit the first
stitches evenly between the first and second stitch, in subsequent rows, slip it), *sl 1, k1*,
needles. Ensure the total stitch count matches repeat from * to * to the last stitch. Purl the
the original. last stitch. Turn work.
R2 (WS): sl 1 wyib, purl to the end of the
Now, the main knitting is on the first set of row. Turn work.
needles, and the cast-on stitches are on the R3 (RS): sl 1 wyib, *sl 1, k1*, repeat from *
second set of needles. to * to the last stitch. Purl the last stitch. Turn
work.
Fold the cuff inward and pull the needles with R4 (WS): sl 1 wyib, purl to the end of the
the cast-on stitches inside. Align the first row. Turn work.
needle of the main knitting with the first Repeat R3 and R4 until you have completed
auxiliary needle. the required number of rows (a total of 36
rows).
Knit together the stitches from both needles
in pairs. This will join the stitches from both HEEL TURN
sets of needles. R1 (RS): sl 1, k21, k2tog (turn the next 2
stitches so they are oriented with their right
Knit 4 more rows in stockinette stitch. legs forward and knit them together through
the front loops), k1. Turn work.
The cuff with the heel tab is now complete.
R2 (WS): sl 1 wyif, p10, p2tog tbl (turn the
HEEL FLAP (reinforced) next 2 stitches so they are oriented with their
right legs backward and purl them together
The heel is worked back and forth on the through the back loops), p1. Turn work.
stitches of the first needle.
At the decrease points, a gap will form
between the stitches - use this as a guide.
Make decreases in each row by taking one

All pictures and text © keenWhale

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stitch before the gap and one stitch after the the stitch count returns to the original
gap. This way, the stitches at the edges of the number on this needle. On the second needle
needle will decrease, while the central stitches (the front part of the sock), work the pattern.
remain unchanged.
Gusset decreases are made every other row -
Repeat R1 and R2 until all stitches on the in each odd-numbered row.
sides of the central stitches have been
decreased. For 35 stitches on the needle, this Note: For those who transferred one stitch
will be 12 rows.
from the first needle to the second needle
before starting the heel, this stitch remains on
PICKING UP STITCHES ALONG THE
HEEL FLAP the second needle (first stitch of the needle)
and is not involved in the pattern. Until the
You need to pick up stitches along each side of gusset is complete, knit this stitch as a knit
the heel flap. The number of stitches to pick stitch, and work the rest of the stitches on this
up should be half the number of rows worked needle in the pattern!
on the heel flap.
Pattern Chart
I always pick up two additional stitches to
prevent gaps at the junction of the needles.
In the sample, the heel flap consists of 36
rows. Therefore, I picked up 18 + 2 stitches
on each side.

Pick up stitches from the bars between the

edge stitches.
Watch the video from this moment
https://youtu.be/6CbfG0H7Fsg?t=798
until the 21:02 min time point.

Instructions: R1:
sl 1, knit all stitches on the needle. First needle - k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts,
Place a marker for convenience, pick up 18 + k2tog, k1.
2 stitches along the heel flap edge. Second needle (first row of pattern repeat):
Knit the stitches on the second needle. k1, *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to the end of
Place a marker, pick up 18 + 2 stitches along the second needle.
the other side of the heel flap. R2:
Knit across the remaining stitches (heel turn, First needle - knit all stitches.
picked-up stitches from one side, and second Second needle (second row of pattern repeat):
needle stitches). k1, *p1, k1*, repeat from * to * to the end of
Stop at the beginning of the first needle. the second needle.
Repeat R1 and R2 until the stitch count on
GUSSET AND PATTERN
the first needle returns to the original number
To form the gusset, decrease part of the (in the sample, this is 28 rows).
picked-up stitches on the first needle so that Note: For those who transferred one stitch

All pictures and text © keenWhale

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 from the first needle to the second needle ARCH SUPPORT
before starting the heel. In the last row of
gusset decreases, you can return this stitch to Knit the required number of rows in 2x1
the first needle: at the beginning of the second ribbing (k2, p1). Finish with 2 rows in
needle, knit 1, then transfer it to the first stockinette stitch.
needle. Knit the stitches on the second needle
according to the pattern. PATTERN COMPLETION

The gusset is complete. R1:

First needle: knit all stitches.
PATTERN START, ARCH SUPPORT AND Second needle: *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to
PATTERN COMPLETION the end of the needle.
R2:
Since this model includes an arch support First needle: K all stitches.
element, you'll need to estimate how many Second needle: *p1, k1*, repeat from * to * to
rows of the pattern to knit before the arch the end of the needle.
support and how many after, up to the toe. Alternate R1 and R2 until you reach the
The number of rows will vary for each case. beginning of the toe (in the sample - 27
rows).
In the sample, after the gusset and the first
part of the pattern, 15 rows of the pattern + 2 In most cases, I start the toe when the pinky
rows of stockinette stitch, 17 rows of arch toe is just covered.
support (2x1 ribbing) + 2 rows of stockinette
stitch, and another 27 rows of the pattern TOE
were knitted.
This model uses a wedge toe, which is shaped
Before the arch support, knit the stitches on with decreases at the beginning and end of each
the first needle in stockinette stitch and the needle in specific rows. The entire toe is knitted
stitches on the second needle in the pattern. in stockinette stitch.
I typically use the following toe decrease
PATTERN START sequence:

R1: R1-4: Knit all stitches.

First needle: knit all stitches. R5: Decreases:
Second needle: *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to First needle: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog,
the end of the needle. k1.
R2: Second needle: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts,
First needle: K all stitches. k2tog, K1.
Second needle: *p1, k1*, repeat from * to * to R6-8: Knit all stitches.
the end of the needle. R9: Decreases (same as R5).
Alternate R1 and R2 to the desired length (in R10-11: Knit all stitches.
the sample - 15 rows). R12: Decreases (same as R5).
Knit 2 rows in stockinette stitch. R13: Knit all stitches.

All pictures and text © keenWhale

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R14: Decreases (same as R5). Front needle:
R15: Knit all stitches. From front to back - slip off.
R16: Decreases (same as R5). From back to front - leave on.
R17: Knit all stitches Back needle:
R18 and subsequent rows From back to front - slip off.
Decrease every row (same as R5). From front to back - leave on.
Continue decreasing until 28 stitches remain
on the needles (14 on each needle). Alternate between the needles until all stitches
are grafted.
GRAFTING THE TOE Weave in the yarn ends on the wrong side.

Use Kitchener stitch to graft the toe closed:

Align the stitches from both needles parallel
to each other. The needle is inserted into the
stitches alternately from front and back.
This method may seem complex initially, and
knitters often come up with tricks to make it Your #so_sporty_socks are ready!
easier and avoid getting confused.
I use the following formula. In fact, until I got
this action down to automatic, I even said it
out loud while grafting the toe))

Watch the video from this moment

https://youtu.be/6CbfG0H7Fsg?t=2231
until the 21:02 min time point.

KITCHENER

Front needle:
Needle through the stitch from front to back -
slip off.
Needle through the next stitch from back to
front - leave on.

Back needle:
Needle through the stitch from back to front -
slip off.
Needle through the next stitch from front to
back - leave on.
And continue as follows:

All pictures and text © keenWhale

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 Thank you so much for choosing this pattern!

I hope you enjoy knitting your pair of So Sporty Socks as much as I enjoyed
creating the pattern.

I'd love to see your finished socks, so please tag me on Instagram @keenwhale
and use the hashtag #so_sporty_socks.

Don't forget to visit my website keenwhale.com for more patterns and updates.

If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, I'm always happy to help.

You can reach out to me on Instagram or via email at [email protected]

Happy knitting!

All pictures and text © keenWhale

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