DoubleRubyRing Pattern
DoubleRubyRing Pattern
MB111
Materials + Supplies
EPP Supplies Printing Pieces
Fabric Glue Stick Printer
Lightweight Thread Cardstock
Needle Scissors (paper use)
Wonder Clips
Thimble
Fabric Requirements
Blocks: Various sized scraps or pre-cuts equaling about 3 yards of fabric (for example,
12 fat quarters). If you’re planning on fussy cutting, you’ll need even more.
Binding: 1/3 yard
Backing: 1 ¼ yards
Printable pieces PDF file included for you to print and cut at home. Craft cutting machine
files for Cricut and Silhouette also included. Does not include any physical papers or
templates. Does not include any tech support for cutting machine files.
Wall Hanging • 32" x 32" • #DoubleRubyRing
Designed by Michelle Bartholomew ©2021 PDF Pattern. Includes guidance for larger sizes.
Duplication of any kind is prohibited Print-at-home pieces & craft cutting machine files included.
[email protected]
6 00300 71921 5
Pattern notes + updates:
michellebartholomew.com/DoubleRubyRing
MiCHELLE BARTHOLOMEW
Q U I LT + DESI G N ST U DI O
TABLE OF CONTENTS Favorite Supplies
If you are new to English Paper Piecing (EPP), here are a few of my favorite
supplies I recommend as you begin your journey. Try lots of options until you find
1 Favorite Supplies what works best for you!
Lightweight Thread
4 Printing Paper Pieces
Look for thread in the 50 wt - 80 wt variety. Try to match your fabric. Or stock up on
a light and medium grey thread as those can blend in with many different colors.
5 Basting
Needle
8 Stitch Guide I like to use a longer, skinny needle like a #10 or #11 sharp or straw needle.
Wonder Clips
9 Block Assembly - Center
I love Wonder Clips for holding pieces together as I sew. Sew Tite magnets are
also helpful for larger pieces.
10 Block Assembly - Large Ring
Thimble
11 Block Assembly - Corners I have yet to find the perfect thimble for me, but one definately comes in
- Options 1, 2, and 3 handy for thicker sections of fabric.
13 Top Assembly
14 Quilt Assembly
1
Fabric Selection Quilt Layout
Limit your color palette for a more traditional look, or throw in all your scraps for Decide between an Xs or Os layout. Each one gives a slightly different look that
a fun confetti version, like the one on the cover. Solid fabrics look gorgeous but you can accentuate by your color choices.
prints also shine! Here are a few fabric selection ideas to get you started.
Wall Hanging: 16 blocks = 32in x 32in quilt (layout 4 blocks x 4 blocks)
Paper
Before printing, load your preferred paper in the printer.
I like to use cardstock, somewhere between 140-215 gsm (I prefer closer to 147
gm). (67lb. Vellum Bristol Cardstock = 147 gm; 65lb. Cover Cardstock = 176 gsm;
80lb. Cover Cardstock = 216 gsm). If you’ve never printed your own EPP papers
before, experiment with what you like best!
Print
1. Open Adobe PDF Reader (free software)
2. Open PDF pattern file DoubleRubyRing-Print-and-Cut.pdf
3. File —> Print
4. Double check that the print settings are set at 100% or Actual Size.
5. Print Basting
6. Measure the 1 inch reference box and make sure it printed at the correct
size. If it measures correctly, print out as many pages as you’d like to make Because of all of the curves and tiny points in this block, I recommend glue
blocks. basting for all pieces.
Note: The block itself prints at just under 8in x 8in. 1. Select the fabric you want to use for the paper piece. Place it right side
down on the table.
Tip! Print out an extra block to reference as you are cutting and sewing the pieces 2. Decide where you want to put the paper piece on the fabric. Make sure
back together. there’s about 3/8" of fabric around the outside of the paper.
Cut paper pieces 3. Put a little glue in the middle of your paper piece on the blank side and
1. Before cutting, I recommend having some sandwich bags or envelopes stick the blank side of the paper piece to the wrong side of the fabric. You
nearby to keep each block separate and organized. should still be able to see the label facing you (e.g., 1a, 2b, etc.).
2. Cut out each block along the SOLID lines. DO NOT cut the dashed lines, 4. Cut the fabric out around the paper piece, leaving a seam allowance of
they are there to help line up the corner pieces during sewing. around 3/8". This doesn’t have to be exact.
3. You will have a total of 21 paper pieces per block. 5. Put glue along the edge of the paper piece (avoid getting glue on the
very edge of the template as it will be much harder to stitch through). Fold
4. Place those pieces in a sandwich bag/envelope. seam allowance over that edge and press and hold to secure it to the glue.
5. Continue following the steps above until you’ve cut out all your block Continue gluing and wrapping until all edges are covered.
pieces.
4 5
Basting Tips Basting Tips - Corners
For the concave curves, you will need Pieces 7a and 7b are the trickiest to baste because it is hard to find the tiny end
to clip around the curve with just the point. For the concave curve, clip the fabric with just the tip of the scissor around
tip of the scissor. the curve. Baste the concave curve first. Baste the straight edges last, really trying
to keep the fabric right along the tiny end point. .
For all pieces, baste the concave Example below.
curves first and the convex curves last.
Example below.
When basting pieces 1a, 1b, 6a, and 6b, baste the long edge last and make sure
the dog ear is pointing away from that side. Example below.
I recommend using the flat back stitch on all the curved sections. It is easier and
more accurate. With the wrong sides facing you, nestle the curved pieces into
each other (like they will be in the finished block). Use clips, Sew Tites, or painter's
tape to secure the pieces together. Keep the needle flat against the pieces as you
catch a little bit of fabric from each side.
8 9
Block Assembly - Large Ring Block Assembly - Corners - Option 1
Sew the individual pieces of each side of the large ring together. You'll have an "a" Use the dashed lines to line up the corner pieces and attach to the outside of the
side and a "b" side. block. Start sewing from the center line and then continue towards each edge.
Then attach one at a time to the center unit. My preferred order is to line up piece I like to take a few whip stitches in the middle and then do a flat back stitch as I
6a with 6c and start from there, stitching around to 1a and 1c. Then, line up 1b work my way to the tiny corner. This is the most fiddly part of the block, just do
and 1c and stitch around to 6b and 6c. I leave attaching 1a to 1b and 6a to 6b your best to sew that tiny edge corner and it will look great when you sew your
until the end of this section. blocks together!
Note: Because this section has the most pieces meeting together, you’ll most likely
need to do some easing in to get everything to fit.
10 11
Block Assembly - Corners - Option 2 Block Assembly - Corners - Option 3
If you have pre-planned your block color placement, you might find it easier to Instead of making any corner pieces,
sew the corner pieces together before assembling the blocks. Just make sure you you can appliqué the large ring onto a
have the correct colors in the correct orientation for the blocks. fabric square. Cut (16) 8 5/8" squares of
fabric (this fabric not included in pattern
materials list).
Option 1 - Recommended - (easier to sew the fiddly corners with this method)
Gently remove the papers from each block. Carefully press each block. Open up all
of the seam allowance along the outside of the block. Press. Using a 3/8" seam (or
whatever seam allowance you used when basting your pieces), machine sew the
blocks together.
Option 2
Keep the papers in the blocks and continue to EPP to sew the blocks together.
Once all of your blocks are sewn together, gently remove the papers. Carefully
press the blocks. Open up all of the seam allowance around the perimeter of the
quilt top. Press.
*If you assemble your corners like this, you will need to sew everything together
Option 3 - for appliquéd blocks only
using EPP (Top Assembly Option 2 on next page).
If you skipped making corner pieces and appliquéd your ring pieces to a piece of
fabric (as explained above), sew appliquéd blocks together using a 1/4" seam.
12 13
Quilt Assembly Extra Content
Once you have completed your quilt top: I hope you've enjoyed making this pattern! I'd love to see how it turned out!!
Email pictures to me at [email protected].
(optional) Stitch around the entire perimeter about 3/16" away from the edge. This Or tag me on social media @michellebartholomew and use #doublerubyring
will keep your hand stiching in place after you trim / square up your quilt.
If you're looking for extra content, I've created more even resources for you online,
Place your backing fabric right side down. Secure sides. Make a quilt sandwich including stitching demos, links to facing tutorials, wall hanging suggestions, and
with the backing, batting, and top. Baste these layers together. more.
Quilt using your favorite method. A few ideas are listed below. www.michellebartholomew.com/DoubleRubyRing
Notes
Once you've completed quilting, trim off extra batting and backing.
Square up your quilt.
Cut your binding fabric into (4) 2 1/2” x WOF (width of fabric) strips.
Sew your binding strips together to make one long strip. Press seams open.
Fold binding strip in half, wrong sides together, and press.
14 15