National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kolkata

Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India

Topic: Fabric Quality Assurance, Various Textile Quality Parameters of Yarn and
Fabric with its Importance.

SUBMITTED BY:
Riya Ghosh (MFM/23/115)
Riddhi Mondal (MFM/23/341)

Under the guidance of

Professor Sandip Samanta

Fashion Management Studies Department

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kolkata
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We express our deepest gratitude to all those who have contributed to the realisation of our
project, “Fabric Quality Assurance, Various Textile Quality Parameters of Yarn and
Fabric with its Importance.” This endeavour, conducted as part of our majors in Fashion
Production and Quality Management was a journey enriched by the invaluable guidance,
support, and expertise of numerous individuals and resources.

We extend our heartfelt thanks to our esteemed faculty member, Professor Sandip Samanta,
whose mentorship and insightful feedback significantly enriched our understanding and
analysis in the realm of fashion history and cultural shifts. Their guidance steered us through
the complexities of this study, nurturing our analytical skills and enhancing the quality of our
work.

We also acknowledge the diverse sources that formed the foundation of our study—books,
websites, research papers, and journals. The wealth of information gleaned from these
sources immensely enriched our understanding, paving the way for a comprehensive and
well-rounded report. To everyone who offered unwavering support, shared knowledge, and
provided encouragement, we offer our sincerest thanks. Your contributions were pivotal in
the successful completion of this project, and we are genuinely grateful for your guidance and
motivation throughout this endeavour.
 1. Introduction:
The fashion business has been growing by leaps and bounds over recent years, thanks to the
constantly evolving fashion trends and the increasing need to look and feel good. It can
rightfully be termed one of the biggest industries due to its growing inclination towards e-
commerce.
Digging deep into the recent trends, the competition in the textile industry is running
exceptionally high among all the brands. In simpler terms, if the quality is not up to the mark,
or the product sellers and vendors are failing to match the industry and customer
requirements, they would be wasting a great deal of money, time, and resources whilst
inevitably falling behind their competition. Also, most of the apparel brands are consistently
pressured towards increasing their output and maximizing profits, thus bearing the brunt of
various problems in the quality management systems.
1.1. What is Quality Assurance?
Quality assurance (QA) can be defined as a systematic process that determines if a product
meets the quality standards. It can be time and again described as a worthy investment as this
process not only helps fashion brands to prevent and address mistakes but also pushes them
towards ensuring that their services and products are meeting high standards.
In addition to keeping up with the industry norms, quality assurance is an essential space
when it comes to maintaining the consistency of the brand offerings. It also looks at the
outcomes of the manufacturing process, in a bid to deliver some high-quality and reliable
finished products. If you are on the lookout for cost and time savings, boosted customer
confidence, along with long-term profits, then quality assurance would aptly fit the bill.
1.2.Quality Assurance in Textiles:
The role of quality assurance in the garment industry has been significantly expanding,
considering its stupendous advantages to help your business grow exponentially. Although
quality assurance and quality control seem to be complex areas of the apparel industry, they
lend quality to each of the steps in the manufacturing process, inclusive of designing,
production, and beyond.
2. Various Textile Parameters for Fabrics:
 Fabric Strength-
i. Tensile Strength
ii. Tearing Strength
iii. Bursting Strength
 Fabric Drape
 Abrasion Resistance
 Fabric Pilling
 Fabric Wrinkle Resistance
 Colour Fastness
i. Washing Fastness
ii. Rubbing Fastness
iii. Perspiration Fastness
 Fabric Thickness
  Fabric Construction
 Fabric Weight
 Warp and Weft Count (Denier)
 Warp and Weft Crimp (%)

3. Fabric Strength: Tensile Strength

Fabric’s tensile strength test refers to a fabric's ability to

withstand pulling or stretching forces without breaking. It
measures the maximum force a fabric can endure before
it reaches its breaking point. Tensile strength depends on
factors such as fiber type, yarn construction, and fabric
thickness. Fabrics with high tensile strength are desired
in applications where resistance to elongation and
stretching is crucial, such as seatbelts, industrial safety
harnesses, or geotextiles.

3.1 Fabric tensile strength test:

Tensile strength is determined through standard fabric tensile strength test method, which
involve subjecting a fabric specimen to increasing levels of force until it breaks. The force
applied and the resulting elongation or deformation are measured, allowing for the
calculation of tensile strength. Tensile strength values are reported in units of force per unit
area, such as pounds per square inch (PSI) or megapascals (MPa). Higher tensile strength
values indicate greater resistance to stretching and breaking.
3.2 Significance of Fabric tensile test:
Tensile strength is a vital consideration for fabrics subjected to constant tension or stretching
forces. In automotive textiles, for example, fabrics used in car seat upholstery must have
sufficient tensile strength to withstand regular use and pressure. Similarly, in industrial
applications, fabrics used in conveyor belts or safety equipment need to possess high tensile
strength to ensure worker safety and durability. By understanding the tensile strength of a
fabric, manufacturers can select appropriate materials that meet the requirements of specific
applications.
Fabric 1: Tensile Test
Test 1: Warp Direction

Sample Size: 30cm×3cm

Initial Point:
Breaking Point:
Breaking Extension:
Breaking Load:

Test 2: Weft Direction

Sample Size: 30cm×3cm

Initial Point:
Breaking Point:
Breaking Extension:
Breaking Load:
Fabric 2: Tensile Test
Test 1: Warp Direction

Sample Size: 30cm×3cm

Initial Point:
Breaking Point:
Breaking Extension:
Breaking Load:

Test 2: Weft Direction

Sample Size: 30cm×3cm

Initial Point:
Breaking Point:
Breaking Extension:
Breaking Load:
4. Fabric Drape and Its Measurement
4.1. Drapability
Fabric drapability is a morphological characteristic occurring when fabric is hanging
down for its gravity. It is one of the important indicators to measure clothes close fitting.
Some fabrics like dresses, curtains, table cloths are required to a good drapability.
Whether fabric drapability is good is close related to fiber classification, fiber stiffness,
yarn twist, fabric density, organizational structure, etc.

A circular sample with a certain area is put on sample clamping plate, overlapping their
centres, so that the drape sample comes for drooping along the circular plate due to its
gravity.
4.2.Test Principle
The drape sample is projected onto a white sheet, and digital camera is used to obtain
sample’s drape figure through which we can get some specified quantitative information
regarding fabric drapability. The relevant indexes as drape coefficient and drape wave
number can be got from computer image processing technology. Generally, fabric
drapability is evaluated by drape coefficient “F”. Drape coefficient is the ratio of the
projected area to original area:

F= [(S1-S2) / (S1-S2)]

Where:
F-Drape Coefficient
S3-The Projected Area
S2-The Area of Clamping Plate
S1-Sample Area

The bigger the drape coefficient, the stiffer the fabric and the weaker fabric drapability;
vice versa.
 Fabric 2: Drape Test

S1-Sample Area:
S2-The Area of Clamping Plate:
S3-The Projected Area:
F-Drape Coefficient:

Drape Coefficient Percentage: F= [(S1-S2) / (S1-S2)] ×100%

5. Fabric Thickness
The thickness of any compressible material such as woven
fabric, knitted fabric, and the non-woven fabric is defined as the
thickness of such kind of material when the fabric specimen is
placed between two plane surfaces of incompressible metal. The
surfaces of the circular pressing plates are kept parallel to each
other. The specimens are tested under a specified pressure.
5.1. Importance of Fabric Thickness Testing
Consistent thickness ensures consistent quality in the final
product. Deviations in thickness can indicate issues during
production. Testing allows manufacturers to catch these
problems early and prevent them from reaching consumers.
Fabric 1: Thickness Test

Sample 1:

Sample 2:

Sample 3:

Average Thickness of the Fabric:

Fabric 2: Thickness Test

Sample 1:

Sample 2:

Sample 3:

Average Thickness of the Fabric:

 6. Fabric Abrasion Resistance:

Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fabric to resist surface wear caused by flat rubbing
contact with another material. It determines the textiles’ ability to withstand the deterioration
or break down of yarns through surface friction.

6.1. Importance:

Abrasion resistant fabric withstands surface wear from rubbing, extending the life of a
product and protecting the person who wears it. Textiles that retain their construction during
extensive wear are sought by companies whose products depend on reliable safety and
wearability. Technical textile suppliers create performance fabrics that demonstrate
exceptional load-bearing properties and “toughness” – the tenacity and elongation of the
fabric needed to break the fibers.

Depending on the application, abrasion resistance in textiles can be achieved with varying
compositions, patterns and finishes that best meet the specifications and requirements from
customers. For instance, in footwear, it is important that the fabric can flex without the fiber
breaking. In contrast, geotextiles need the surface of the fabric to withstand abrasion caused
by erosion.

Fabric 1: Abrasion Resistance Test

Initial Sample Weight:

Weight after 1000 times Abrasions:
Interpretation: There is negligible change after
abrasion. So, we can say the Abrasion Resistance of
the fabric is very good.
 7. Fabric Pilling
Pilling is the formation of small fluffy balls of fibre on a fabrics surface. As a fabric is
subjected to daily wear and abrasion, loose fibres can become entangled to form “pills” on
the surface.
7.1. What are the most common causes of Pilling?
Pilling is usually not the result of a defective fabric, it is often related to an external fibre
source coming into contact with the fabric in combination with other variables such as
atmospheric conditions, clothing and the care and maintenance the fabric has been receiving.
If for example, you have a light beige sofa, and your pills are a different colour it’s quite
telling that it’s coming from another source, perhaps a throw blanket or scatter cushion.
Another cause can be the absence of an internal cushion or upholstery lining. The use of a
barrier coth or lining prevents tetron, or a similar cushion filling, migrating through the fabric
and creating a fibre source for pilling to occur.

7.2.Pilling box method for testing the fabric pilling

Test principle: The specimen is mounted on a polyurethane tube, placed in a cork-lined
wooden box and tumbled at a constant speed. After a specified number of tumbles, the pilling
performance is evaluated by visual description. Any special treatment of the samples
(washing, cleaning) should be agreed by the parties concerned and should be described in the
test report.
7.3. Importance of Pilling Test:
Pilling tests help manufacturers identify and address potential pilling issues, ultimately
leading to higher customer satisfaction and brand reputation. Different fabrics have varying
pilling tendencies. Pilling tests help manufacturers select suitable fabrics for specific
applications.

Result: Rate 5
Interpretation: No pilling happened
 8. Colour Fastness: Rubbing Fastness
Rubbing or crocking fastness is the transfer of dyed textile material’s color from its surface to
an adjacent area by the same fabric or other surface (normally bleached cotton fabric)
principally by rubbing. It is tested using a crock meter. It may be either hand-driven or
motorized.

8.1. Dry Rubbing: The dry rubbing cloth is fixed flat in place over the end of the finger of
the testing device. Operate the apparatus and rub the test specimen to and fro in a straight line
along a track 10 cm long, 10 times to and fro in 10 seconds, ensuring that there is a
downward force of 9 N on the rubbing finger.
8.2. Wet Rubbing: Repeating the test described above with a fresh dry test specimen and
with a wet rubbing cloth that has been wetted to ensure a take up about 100 percent of its
mass of water. Dry the rubbing cloth at room temperature.
Assign ratings for the staining of the cotton cloths with the grey scale for staining. Assign one
rating each in the warp-way and weft-way directions of the fabric for the dry rubbing fastness
and similarly one in each of these directions for the wet rubbing fastness of the test fabric.
8.3. Importance of Rubbing Fastness:
By testing how colors hold up to rubbing, manufacturers can ensure that clothes will maintain
their appearance for longer and avoid staining other items. The test results can help predict
how a fabric will perform in real-world situations.
Fabric 1: Rubbing Fastness Test
Test 1: Dry Rubbing Test

Result: Level 4/5 on Grey Scale

Interpretation: Colour Fastness is ‘Fine’

during dry rubbing.

Test 2: Wet Rubbing Test

Result: Level 3 on Grey Scale

Interpretation: Colour Fastness is ‘Modarate

to Poor’ during wet rubbing.

9. Fabric Construction:
Fabric construction is defined as the warp and weft yarn density in a fabric sheet. The
construction of the fabric is presented as EPI and PPI. The yarn count (number) is defined as
the thickness and fineness of the yarns.
PPI: picks per inch, the number of weft threads in one inch of woven fabric
EPI: ends per inch, the number of warp threads in one inch of woven fabric.
 10. Fabric Weight:
Fabric weight is a key factor when it comes to choosing materials for various projects. It
affects how the fabric feels, behaves, and even how well it takes on colors when dyed.
GSM stands for grams per square meter, the standard unit of measurement used in the textile
industry. It tells how many grams a single sheet of fabric that is one meter long and one-
meter-wide weighs.
This number helps understand the density and thickness of different fabrics. Lighter materials
like cotton lawn and viscose crepe have a lower GSM, making them breathable and ideal for
summer wear or delicate items. Fabrics with a higher GSM are thicker and bulkier; think
cozy flannel shirts perfect for chilly days or sturdy denim jeans built to last.
11. Warp and Weft Count (Denier):
Yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also
expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute –
“Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of
yarn.”
In a direct yarn counting system, the yarn number or count is the weight of a unit length of
yarn. This means the higher the yarn count number, the heavier or thicker the yarn. It is fixed
length system. This system is used for express the count of man-made fiber, jute, silk etc.
Denier: The count of yarn in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m or 9 km of
yarn.
12. Warp and Weft Crimp (%):
Inside the fabric, yarns form a wavy shape instead of straight yarn. As a result, actual length
of the yarns is longer than the length of fabric width and length in fabric. Both in warp way
and weft ways. The shortening of yarn length in fabric is known as crimp.
Warp Crimp% = 100 X [(length of warps in straighten form - warp wise fabric sample
length)/Warp wise fabric sample length]
Weft Crimp% = 100 X [(length of weft in straighten form - weft wise fabric sample
length)/Weft wise fabric sample length]

Importance:
Understanding different fabric construction parameters is crucial for making informed
choices about textiles. These parameters, like weave type, yarn thickness, and fiber content,
all influence a fabric's drape, weight, strength, breathability, and wrinkle resistance. Knowing
these details empowers manufactures to select the perfect material for customers’ needs.