ORMUS, Is this the wet method?

April 18, 2010 by admin

A couple years ago I played around with trying to distill M-State material from
Dead Sea Salt and Celtic Sea Salt. I’d read the David Hudson lectures a number of
times and searched the web for any sources that might have reproduced what David
discovered.

One of the sources I came across was the website SubtleEnergies.com. After digging
around a bit there, I found the Wet-Method Procedure for isolating M-State from
these salts. The procedure can be found here.

I don’t know how many times I read it in order to build the confidence that I could
actually perform this ‘science.’ But eventually, I got to that point and gathered
the equipment. Figuring that it would be pretty important to follow the directions
carefully, I saved a few bucks and acquired a collection of beakers, eye droppers
and even a pH meter. The collection turned out to be very similar to this kit found
on Amazon:

I think I might have collected a couple more standard beakers and a stand, but
that’s pretty close. The pH meter was similar to this:

After reading a bunch of sites and seeing that the directions were all very
similar, I figured that the directions that I found were ‘good enough’ for me to
get the job done.

Then, I set out to follow the instructions explicitly.

To sum up a couple months worth of testing, I never got to what I felt was M-State
material. I remember coming across a statement from David Hudson that the material
was like cow sperm (he had a farming background) or a gelatinous concoction. All I
came up with was a milky white substance.

After searching around a bit, I found the following information from a David Hudson
lecture:

When mixed with water WPG forms a gelatinous mixture. When ingested it has the
following affects. “Every cell in your body will be taken back to the state it is
supposed to be, when you were a teenager or a child. It perfects the DNA, and
closes the light within the body until you literally reach a point where the light
body exceeds the physical body.”

It left me a little discouraged. So, I packed up the chemistry set and figured I’d
wait until the time was right and keep my eyes open.

Well, it just so turns out that I stumbled across a video on YouTube where it looks
like HealingMindN is able to get to the point that I wanted to get to. Here is his
video (also shown below). If you’ve been looking for a good video on the wet-method
M-State distillation process, this might be it.

Special note: when watching the video, he adds music about 2:23 in. Fortunately,
he’s funneled it to the one speaker and his voice is on the other. If you want to
hear him without the interference, just turn off the speaker playing the music and
turn up the other.
Here are the steps as outlined by the video. I’ve made a few screen shots with the
idea of lining up the wet-method with what it is that HealingMindN shows.

Let’s start.

Apollinaris Water
Mineral water. Turns out he’s bought a German import, Apollinaris water. A quick
search on the net finds an Amazon source. Search Amazon for product number:
030494881229.

He claims that it contains Magnesium which will be a good catalyst for the process.
And, if you look around the web a bit more, you’ll find AquaMaestro which has a
great writeup:

Apollinaris is a naturally carbonated mineral water renowned for its health and
curative powers. Although not tremendously high in Calcium compared with many other
curative brands, Apollinaris it is strong in Potassium, and Sulphate, and
gangbusters in Magnesium and Bicarbonate at 130 milligrams and 1810 milligrams per
liter respectively. What you might not like is the Sodium – also extremely high at
410 milligrams (almost a half a gram) per liter. And, it must be noted that we have
not ascertained the all-important Nitrate level. …

So, that part holds up. In any case, he claims that 2 cups distilled water plus 1
teaspoon of Epsom salts may be substituted if the water is not found (video 00.15).

Celtic Sea Salt

Half cup Celtic Sea Salt. That stuff looks like this (above). Search Amazon for
product number: B000SWVPV8.

You can probably find that in your local health food store. The CelticSeaSalt
website has a write-up about it that reads:

Celtic Sea Salt® Brand Light Grey Celtic® is totally unprocessed, kosher and hand
harvested. It is dried by the sun and the wind, retaining the ocean’s moisture and
locking in a vast array of vital trace elements. Celtic Sea Salt® Light Grey
Celtic® is a coarse, moist salt that gets a light grey hue from the pure clay sole
it is harvested from. There is no comparison, in taste or in health effects,
between mineral-rich Celtic Sea Salts® and chemically-treated iodized salts. …

And, again, HealingMindN suggests that other sea salts may be substituted such as
Lima Atlantic or Dead Sea Salt.

Salt added to (carbonated) water

I believe he’s saying that he’s adding 450 milliliters to the beaker too which he
adds the salt. After stirring for a moment, it sounds like he says he’s going to
let it sit overnight.

Great. That is a step that I do not remember from the Wet-Method procedure written
up at SubtleEnergies. Yet, maybe it doesn’t have to sit overnight.

Initial pH 5.9
Looks like the starting pH of the salt water is 5.9.

Tropics Food Grade Lye Water

And now for his setup – food grade lye water. Looks like he’s using Tropics Lye
Water. Turns out that Amazon also shows this product.

He claims it’s about 12.7 pH. Anyone should be able to validate that pretty easily.
It looks like at second 2:10 in the video, he’s got 140 milliliters of Lye Water
that he’ll be using.

pH After adding Lye Water 10.5

Looks like he continues to add the lye solution until the Sea Water hits 10.5. He
points out that it is point 1 to go from stop. Thus, he’s looking for 10.6 as the
stopping point for this pH swing.

(Editors note: The lye mixture is an 8:1 mixture. Add 8 parts water to a beaker and
then slowly, in a vented area, add the other 1 part lye crystals while stirring
careful not to overheat. This information can be found by digging around a bit on
the SubtleEnergies site or visiting the OrmusBook. There, I quote from the FAQ
section:

…For the processes detailed in the book, a 1:8 strength works very, very well. That
is ½ cup of lye (NaOH) crystals mixed as described in the book into 1 quart of
distilled water. This would be about 125 grams per liter of water in the metric
system.

Yet you don’t need that much for these small volumes. A 1:8 mixture would be 25
millileters lye to 200 milliliters distilled water. )

Another reading at pH 10.6

At 3:17 in the video, The participate has formed, it’s mainly Magnesium Hydroxide
Lye … and a little M-State. He is now at pH 10.6.

Overall, he’s added about 140 milliliters of lye just like he did last time and
he’s going to let it sit overnight. So that it settles.

He makes a comment to not use anything but glass so as to not disrupt the M-State
material.

Home made Faraday Cage

Here, he shows his Faraday cage that he uses to place the M-State material in
overnight. His faraday cage is two cookie containers where the center one is lined
with steel wool where there is a brown paper bag inside of that. His participate
container has cellophane with a rubber band holding it on.

It might be work investigating this a little more. If M-State is sensitive to

electromagnetic energy, shielding it might be a good idea. Yet, I’m not sure how
well his box is working, for one of the key elements of a Faraday cage is
grounding. Yet, let’s continue.

pH 10.4 after sitting all night

He shows about 300 milliliters of precipitate and the covering liquid has a pH of
about 10.4.

He comments that he’s going to wash the precipitate three times.

Tubbing for raking off substrate
Here he shows the plastic tubing that he’s going to use to remove the liquid on top
of the precipitate.

Tried to capture distilled water brand (unsuccessfully)

Here we can almost see the brand of distilled water that he’s going to use to water
the precipitate. He fills the container up to about 600 milliliters again so that
he can let it settle again overnight.

At this point I have to assume that he goes through the washing process all three
times before coming back to the video. Thus, at this point, he’s just about doubled
the water content in his beaker three times and removed the substrate covering the
precipitate as he outlined. If he lets it settle overnight each time, a few days
have passed.

Boiling in a water bath for 5 minutes

He then jumps straight into the boiling process. We can see from his text that he
boils for 5 minutes.

After boiling
Here he shows the precipitate after boiling and he’s going to take it to pH 12. He
stated that last time it took nearly 50 milliliters of Lye water to perform that
task.

After raising to pH 12.0

Here he shows that he’s raised the pH to 12.0. At this point, the M-State will be
re-dissolved in solution. Shortly after showing the pH, he comments that he should
have drained off more substrate (the clear liquid on top) for he recognizes that he
has more volume than what he was expecting.

Filter, used for seperating substrate from precipitate

Here we see the filter that he’s going to use to remove the precipitate leaving
just the clear liquid holding the M-State material.

At this point, I wish I knew what that filter was. I’ve searched around on some
different chemistry supply websites, but when you don’t know what you’re looking
for, it makes things a little harder to find. Hopefully, I’ll find a picture that
matches what he’s using.

(Author’s note: Ask and you shall receive. As it turns out, I now have a better
idea what this filter is. Turns out OnlineScienceMall has a number of different
sizes to choose from. They call them Filtration Assemblies. Follow the link and the
picture will really sum it up.)

Vacum flask with desolved M-State (in flask)

Here is a good picture showing his flask with the rubber stopper holding the funnel
filter. What gathers in the flask (the filtrate) is what he’s looking for.

pH of filtrate 11.8
Here he shows the pH of the filtrate. He comments that it’s gone down a little to
11.8.
At this point, he mentions something like “from here on out it’s a feeling out
process as the ‘coopers pairs’ start forming in solution they start congealing just
like making gelatin.”

Measurement of whate distilled vinegar pH 2.4 (or 2.9)

Now he goes to bring the solution down to 10.78 pH. He uses acetic acid. The form
of the acid is white distilled vinegar that you’d find in the grocery store. During
this process, the ‘coopers pairs’ should start forming.

Finished product
Here he shows nice big globules of M-State ‘Jello.’

After watching this video, it seems pretty simple. I just might have to give it
another try.

The only question that I have is about the filtering process. Looks like
HealingMindN is using a filter flask, but I can’t find the actual filter online.
I’ll have to keep looking and see what I can find. If I can come up with that final
setup, then I’ll give it another try. (See comment above for a link to filtration
assembles.)

As a point of reference, I’ve included the process form SubtleEnergies.com below.

The steps are nearly identical. The only real difference comes at the end when
HealingMindN mentions that it’s a feeling out process from here on out.

Wet Method Procedure.

If you are using dried sea minerals, mix 1/2 cup of dry material with 2 cups of
distilled water. This makes sea water. Now proceed as described below:

1. First, you might want to pour the sea water through a coffee filter to remove
any scum.

2. If the starting material does not contain magnesium hydroxide (sea water does
contain magnesium hydroxide), add some, or add a teaspoon of Epsom salts per gallon
of water.

3. Pour the sea water into a stainless steel pot. Slowly, drop-by-drop, add the lye
solution WHILE STIRRING. Every ten drops or so, test the pH. You might want to take
at least 3 to 5 samples from different regions of the liquid. If you are using pH
paper, the goal is to bring the pH up to 9.5, then stop to be on the safe side. If
you are using a pH meter, stop just before you get to pH 10.78.

A white precipitate which includes m-state elements will form.

CAUTION: You must proceed slowly and patiently so that you do not exceed pH 10.78
with a meter or pH 9.5 with pH paper. If you go higher than pH 10.78, you might get
a “Gilcrest precipitate” of toxic heavy metals. It is alleged that the Dead Sea
salt water does not produce any Gilcrest precipitate. This has not been proven and
should not be assumed.

4. Once you are at the correct pH, stop.

5. Pour the solution into a clean glass jar or test tube.

6. The white precipitate (slurry) slowly settles on the bottom of the jar. Let the
slurry settle overnight. If metals or other toxins have been ruled out by prior
testing of your starting material, the slurry is probably mostly calcium hydroxide,
Mg(OH)2, lye, and a small amount of m-state.

You can speed this settling process with a centrifuge, which forces the precipitate
to settle rapidly. Inexpensive second-hand centrifuges may be found at American
Science and Surplus, http://www.sciplus.com.

7. Using a large syringe (or siphon), remove the liquid above the slurry.

8. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly, and
let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight.

9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 at least three times to thoroughly wash the precipitate.
This should remove almost all of the lye. The remaining lye can be neutralized with
HCl or distilled white vinegar as well. Washing three times is intended to reduce
the dissolved “impurities” (like salt, for example) by 87.5%. Four washes would
provide a 93.75% reduction, five washes a 96.875% reduction, and so on.

At this point, the precipitate is likely to contain some m-state, milk of magnesia
Mg(OH)2, calcium, and perhaps some impurities.

Pour the precipitate and water into a stainless steel pot on a stove burner. A gas
burner is preferred over electric because any magnetic fields from the electric
burner may drive off some of the m-state material. Cover the pot with a lid to
contain the m-state, and boil the solution for 5 minutes to sterilize it. Be
careful not to spill the hot solution! Let it cool back to room temperature and
recheck the pH to make sure it hasn’t exceeded pH 9.

DISCUSSION: WHEN TO BOIL THE SOLUTION

In this document, we suggested that you not boil the solution until you have made
the washed precipitate. However, boiling can be done earlier in the procedure with
certain advantages. Here are four times that boiling could be done, with a
discussion of the pros and cons of each:

1. Boil before adding lye solution.

PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the hot lye
solution. You may inhale fumes.

2. Boil while adding lye solution.

PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the hot lye
solution. You may inhale fumes. Danger of lye spurting out of pot. Not recommended.

3. Boil and cool after adding lye solution.

PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. Little danger of spilling hot lye solution.
CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation.

4. Boil the washed precipitate (recommended).

PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. No danger of spilling hot lye solution. pH is

unlikely to change after boiling because the reaction has already taken place.
CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation. If safety is the main issue, this
seems to be the best method.

Caution: If you boil the solution on an electric burner, the magnetic field in the
burner may “blow off” some of the m-state materials, resulting in a small yield.
This can be minimized by adding a source of sodium (such as sodium hydroxide or
salt) to the solution before boiling.

Since sea water contains sodium in salt, none of the boiling methods will be a
problem with sea water. However, if you are starting with low-sodium fresh water,
add a sodium source (such as table salt or lye solution) before boiling.

Once the precipitate and water have been sterilized, the next step is required to
concentrate the m-state.

HOW TO PURIFY YOUR PRECIPITATE

The precipitate made from sea water contains milk of magnesia (Mg(OH)2), which
precipitates approximately around the same pH range that m-state does. Here are
four methods to separate Mg(OH) 2 from m-state:

METHOD 1.

1. Suppose you just made a precipitate by adding lye solution to sea water. The
precipitate is m-state mixed with Mg(OH) 2.

2. Use a syringe to remove the liquid over the precipitate, and discard the liquid.
This leaves only the m-state/Mg(OH)2 precipitate.

3. To the wet precipitate, add hydrochloric acid (HCl) until you reduce the pH to
1.0 – 3.5. You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but lab-
grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated. A safe alternative to HCl is distilled
white vinegar.

4. The white colloidal precipitate should dissolve, leaving a clear solution.

5. Add lye solution VERY SLOWLY drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 8.5 – 8.7.
The precipitate that forms should be m-state mostly free of Mg(OH)2 (because m-
state precipitates in this pH range, and Mg(OH)2 does not precipitate until pH 9.)

Note that your total yield may be diminished because you are not going past pH 8.7.

6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate, and wash the precipitate. It should be
mostly m-state.

METHOD 2

This procedure removes the Mg(OH)2 by dissolving it below pH 9. First get some HCl
(or muriatic acid) and coffee filters. A safer alternative to HCl is distilled
white vinegar.

1. Dry the precipitate in a dark oven at about 275 degrees F for one or two hours.
This forms a dry powder.

2. Take the dry powder and pulverize out any clumps.

3. In a glass container, cover the powder with some distilled water. For example,
one liter of water for one cup of powder.

4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop to bring the pH to 5 or 6.

5. Shake the bottle and let it sit overnight. The dried m-state should not
dissolve at that pH, but the Mg(OH)2 should dissolve.
6. The next day, after all the Mg(OH)2 has dissolved, pour everything into filter
paper.

7. Wash the powder collected in the filter paper several times with distilled water
to remove any residual traces of HCl or vinegar.

8. The washed powder may be oven-dried again at about 275 degrees F, and you should
have m-state powder free of Mg(OH)2.

METHOD 3

1. Dry the original precipitate at about 200 degrees F.

2. Mix the resulting powder with distilled white vinegar or 30% HCl. Everything
which does not dissolve in m-state. This will be quite a small amount if you start
with sea water. (If you mix pure HCl with distilled water, remember: ADD ACID TO
WATER, NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID).

3. Measure the amount of HCl/m-state solution (or vinegar/m-state solution).

4. Add distilled water to the HCl/m-state solution. Add an amount of water that is
at least ten times the amount of HCl/m-state solution. (You may substitute
distilled white vinegar for HCl).

5. Filter the solution through 5 layers of coffee filters.

6. Wash the powder at least three times in a large amount of distilled water.

METHOD 4

1. Starting with clean wet precipitate, add lye to bring the pH up to 12. The m-
state precipitate will dissolve, but magnesium hydroxide and the Gilcrest
precipitate will not.

2. Filter out the precipitate.

3. To the remaining liquid containing only m-state, add HCl or distilled white
vinegar drop-by-drop until the pH reaches 8.5.

4. Add lye solution drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 10.78. The resulting
precipitate should be only m-state.

5. Wash the precipitate as described earlier.

6. To be safe, check the pH of the precipitate slurry. It should be 9 or less

before ingesting.

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52 thoughts on “ORMUS, Is this the wet method?”
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Dave
August 21, 2019 at 9:41 am
Hi Brenda,
You’re the first question about this in a long time. Note that I copied these
methods from SubtleEnergies.com and it looks like their website is still up and
running.
My understanding of the instructions is – yep. Washing the precipitate thins
out/removes what’s in solution. If I understand this correctly, the precipitate
doesn’t have a charge so it can’t be carried by water. Thus, it falls out.
Everything else is still in solution, thus whatever is left can be thinned and
washed away.
Second question is a really good one! In my experience, as you add the acid back
in, the H will dissolve the precipitate and it goes back into solution. Or, it
becomes clear again like water. Now, should it? Logically, it makes sense if what
you have is common mineral solutions. If you have M-state, I don’t know. I wasn’t
able to get to something that wasn’t logically explainable.

Glad you stopped by. If you’re able to find something that can’t be logically
explained away, I’d love to hear about it.
Dave

Brenda
August 19, 2019 at 1:50 am
Hi Dave

Forgive me for taking you back if anyone else asked it already.

The video stops at the jelly look ORMUS at ph 10.78. It sounded like this is it. He
says I got my Ormus.

1. I read in your method 4 step 5 that I must wash the precipitate again. Is that
right?
2. Is the jello look going to dissolve again or should it remain jello until it
reaches ph 9 or less?
Will it reach PH 9 or less just by the “wash step” 5?

Thanking you in advance