27.04.

18
SHOE & BAG
EDITION

FAnTASy
FASHiOn
Starring:
GileS deAcOn
lulu Kennedy
cHArleS JeFFrey
& mATTy bOvAn

Selena
Forrest
Survivor, supermodel
and so much more

Plus: AnyA HindmArcH,

LONDON’S NEW PARTY PALACE
and take a bow Alfred Enoch
 CONTENTS
LAURA WEIR

7 We’re so fond of Ophelia Lovibond in CAPITAL GAINS NICHOLAS

KIRKWOOD
8 The joys of school uniform in UPFRONT boots, £995,
at net-a-
porter.com
10 Our MOST WANTED are Mulberry’s

5
jewel-encrusted accessories
12 ALFRED ENOCH: the Hogwarts
boy who loves the Bard
CHAOS
19 Reign of
25 Is this London’s COOLEST RESTAURANT?

EDITOR IN CHIEF
29 STUART WEITZMAN’s shoe supremo THE BOOT
Laura Weir ‘It might not be boot weather, but with
32 We’re obsessed with SELENA FORREST their gossamer-thin lace finish and
pretty pearls, these make for a
38 Lions and tigers and BAGS (oh my!) summer-appropriate stomp. Especially
worn with a floaty floral maxi dress.’
47 Get in the sea in BEAUTY
51 Kate Spicer uncovers gold in DINNER GUEST
53 TART make grapefruit posset
54 Getting craty in HOMEWORK
57 ESCAPE to Warsaw
4
THE BAG
‘How to look
hot and cool on
Here are Laura’s 58 Anya Hindmarch’s MY LONDON
the beach? Cue
this Dior bag,
top ive must-have monogrammable
accessories upon request
and served with
bucketloads
of practical,

2
vintage appeal.’
GUCCI Ophidia bag,
£1,790, at matches
fashion.com
THE SUNNIES DIOR emroidered tote, £1,350 (dior.com)
‘I’ve fallen in love with Alexis Amor’s new
sunglasses range. I like BIG shades to hide
behind and these are perfect.’

3 THE SANDAL
‘Part sporty, part glad, with a
touch of party feet sparkle —
and they’re by Charles &
Billy Scheepers. Cover: Selena Forrest photographed by Carin Backoff. Styled by Jenny Kennedy.

Keith, the new accessories

1
brand to know. Sold.’

ALEXIS AMOR Coco sunglasses,

THE BAG £245 (alexisamor.com)
‘Dear Gucci, Your bag is a dream, love from me. x.’ CHARLES & KEITH sandals, £49 (charleskeith.com)
DIOR jumpsuit, £4,700 (dior.com). FENDI bumbag, £980 (fendi.com)

Visit us online: standard.co.uk/esmagazine • Follow us: @eveningstandardmagazine @ESmagoicial @ESmagoicial

Editor in chief Laura Weir
Deputy editor Anna van Praagh
Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Art director Ben Turner Fashion director at large Bay Garnett Fashion features director Katrina Israel
Arts & entertainment director Dipal Acharya Art editor Jessica Landon Senior fashion editor Jenny Kennedy
Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Picture editor Marian Paterson Fashion editor Sophie Paxton
Features writer Frankie McCoy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare
Acting beauty director Rose Beer
Social media editor Natalie Salmon
Beauty director Katie Service Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw
Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones,
Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Richard Gray, Nicky Yates (style editor at large)

Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT.
ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their
agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 3
 CAPITAL GAINS
What to do in London
1
BY FRANKIE M C COY

Workshop, 1914-15,
by Wyndham Lewis

BUBBLE BATH
3
On the SCENT Pop, tssst, glug
Off-White and Byredo have glug glug… The
launched an earthy, musky joyous sound of
perfume called Elevator Music something cold,
and it’s ace. Head over to alcoholic and fi zzy being
Selfridges to snap it up before opened is the background
it vanishes from shelves at the music for the Prosecco
end of the month. Springs festival at Oval Space,
Until 30 Apr with tasting masterclasses, live
(selfridges.com) music, an outdoor Prosecco Park and
pizza for when you’ve learned so

4
much about the good stuff that you

2
VEG OUT
Eat food, mostly
Pretty ABSTRACT
can’t walk straight. Tickets from £40.
26-29 Apr (proseccosprings.com)

Kaleidoscope trippiness and rainbow trompe

plants, as Tredwells l’oeil come to Tate Modern with Shape of
chef Chantelle Light: 100 Years of Photography and Abstract
Nicholson and Peter Art, exploring the Venn diagram collision
Gordon of The of the two art forms via Man Ray and
Providores join Alfred Stieglitz. Tickets £18. 2 May
forces to create a to 14 Oct (tate.org.uk)
six-course, one-off
vegetable-based
dinner: think miso
sesame courgettes,
spring pea gnudi
with tempura spring

5
onions and more. How
Illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas; courtesy of the Wyndham Lewis Memorial Trust; Getty

grown-up. Tickets £55.

1 May (tredwells.com)

BOOGIE ON
Pull on your dancing shoes,
there’s a Brixton Disco Festival
boogying off down south, with Take it to the BRIDGE
live acts including Crazy P and
Joey Negro taking over the
Prince of Wales rooftop and
Electric Brixton, while the
Ritzy hosts a vinyl fair and the
Black Cultural Archives hosts a
Young playwright Barney Norris
has turned out some seriously great
work the past few years, so grab
your tickets fast for his latest,
Nightfall at the Bridge Theatre,
starring Ophelia Lovibond
6 7
NAILED IT
Neon is the new
everything, darling,
especially on your nails
and especially when that neon nail
is by Christian Louboutin, as
funktastic exhibition. Groovy. (right), for thespian kudos. available exclusively at DryBy
Tickets from £40. 28 Apr Tickets from £15. 1-26 May salon in Fitzrovia. Rave on.
(brixtondiscofestival.com) (bridgetheatre.co.uk) £60. From 1 May (dryby.co.uk)

LAST CHANCE: make your face sustainable at Ainsel’s LOOK AHEAD: craft doesn’t get cooler than the entries to
eco-friendly Shoreditch pop-up, where lipsticks are made to order the annual Loewe Craft Prize — take a peek at the winners at the
to minimise waste, before it closes on 27 April. (ainsel.com) Design Museum from 4 May to 17 June. (designmuseum.org)

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 7
UPFRONT
Laura Craik on the beauty of uniforms,
Meghan’s lexical learning curve and
this summer’s hottest colour

T
he day before a meeting with a bunch of
women whom I knew would bring their
A-game, I was so stuck for inspo that Uniform over function: school garb,
below, vs ‘stylish street style’
I literally googled ‘stylish street style’. I
know. What even *is* stylish street style? Well, allow
me to enlighten you: the irst four pictures that came
up featured women in black skinny jeans. Stylish in
2013, but not really the look I was ater. What was
I ater? Just any half-sentient ensemble that would
ensure I looked more or less like everyone else in
the room. Kind of a uniform, but not.
Which is sad, given I spent years resenting
the strict school uniform that I was made to
wear, and the ignominy of that maroon blazer.
Exactly when I turned into this fearful,
conformist creature, I do not know. When the
comedian Seann Walsh recently posted a
photo of an old fax (a fax!) sent by his dad to
Walsh’s school, upbraiding them for
coniscating his son’s non-regulation school
jumper, the old me would have been all
#TeamSeann. Now, I’m all ‘uniforms are there for
a reason’. My elder daughter started secondary
school last year, at an establishment where girls get
detention for rolling their skirts up, wearing
“The new me breathes a sigh of relief
contraband earrings (studs only) or having the that at least the pupils will only fret
wrong colour of hair bobble. While the old me would about their trainer choices at weekends”
have railed against the school for killing its pupils’
creative self-expression, the new me breathes a sigh of who went on a minibreak to New York and came back
relief that at least the pupils will only fret about their talking like Method Man, but while peppering your
trainer choices at weekends. sentences with ‘like’, ‘man’ and ‘yo’ is tragic, most
Ugly as they may be, the beauty of uniforms is that Brits would probably admit to a preference for some
they take away the freedom of choice that so oten, American words over their own. ‘Cookie’ just sounds
paradoxically, enslaves us. Devoid of all but the most tastier than ‘biscuit’, and if Meghan wants to call
prescribed visual signiiers, it’s hard to tell if you’re a plasters ‘Band-Aids’, let her be. Also: please can she
fat kid or a thin kid, a rich kid or a poor one. How many say ‘mirror’ soon? Thanks.
grown-ups wouldn’t, on occasion, wish for the same
privilege? Enjoy it while it lasts, girls. Because one day, in the pink HOT
you’ll be googling ‘stylish street style’ like a numpty. It might be cold again by the time you read this, but at KENDRICK
the moment it’s hot, and, being unseasonably so, said For winning a
Pulitzer Prize.
Band-aid solution heat has taken people by surprise even more than it
Prince Harry was recently overheard telling usually does, almost to the point of outrage that God
Meghan Markle that she would have to get used to failed to consult them on whether their annual NOT
calling Band-Aids ‘plasters’, and then they both summer Zara panic-buy had arrived (no, it ALL THE STUFFY
giggled, because that’s what you do in the irst hadn’t) before unleashing the muniicence of INTELLECTUAL
ASSHATS WHO SAID
lush of love: you giggle at things that aren’t even His sun. Nobody moans about having nothing KENDRICK
funny. Although actually, there are endless lolz to to wear in the snow, but turn the heat up, and SHOULDN’T HAVE
WON A PULITZER
be extrapolated from the diferences in the suddenly we’re all ‘WHERE ARE MY WHITE
Getty; Eyevine; Alamy; Rex; Backgrid

Get back in your boxes.

American and British lexicons. JEANS? OH GOD I HAVE LITERALLY NO
Hearing an American person says CLOTHES AND MUST STAY AT HOME
‘meer’ (mirror) or ‘squrrl’ UNTIL THIS NIGHTMARE ENDS.’
(squirrel) can still render me According to Net-A-Porter, searches for ‘pastels’
helpless with mirth, for currently stand at 125 a day, with pink being
reasons that probably particularly popular. So if you want to be
suggest I need to get out prepared for the next heatwave, buy a pink dress
more. We all know someone like Victoria Beckham (let) and quit moaning.

8 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
 THE most WANTED
SWEET DELIGHT:
high tea has NEVER been
so DELECTABLE

MULBERRY Lynton mini bucket bag, £1,250; pumps, £750 (mulberry.com)

10 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18 PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDRO AGUILAR STYLED BY JENNY KENNEDY

 West End
GUY He got his big break in Harry Potter
— then made his name in the US smash How to
Get Away with Murder. Now Alfred Enoch is set
to take theatreland by storm with a starring role
in the iconic play Red. By Alice-Azania Jarvis
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DEAN CHALKLEY STYLED BY ENIOLA DARE
SITTINGS EDITOR MARIAN PATERSON

12 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
 FENDI jacket,
£1,380, shirt,
£305, trousers,
£445 (fendi.com)

W hen he isn’t busy

rehearsing for his lat-
est play, or shooting
his next TV show,
Alfred Enoch likes to
let his hair down. So
he and his friends get
together at one another’s houses — and perform
Shakespeare readings.
‘We read Troilus and Cressida the other day,’ enthuses
the 29-year-old. ‘We send an email round saying, “These
are the ones that we still haven’t read.”’
So passionate is Enoch about these readings that
when he moved to Los Angeles to shoot the blockbuster
ABC drama How to Get Away with Murder, in which
he starred as legal student Wes Gibbins opposite the
Oscar-winner Viola Davis as the formidable professor
Annalise Keating, he did them there, too. ‘I do like weird
things,’ he grins.
We’re sipping mint tea in a corner of Clerkenwell’s
Quality Chop House. Outside, it’s unseasonably dreary,
one of those days when the city appears in permanent
twilight. But Enoch, wearing a blue Adidas jacket, blue
trousers and trainers, is irrepressible, speaking a mile a
minute, singing the praises of everything from working
with Davis (‘a privilege’) to his latest play, Red, which
opens at Wyndham’s Theatre next week: ‘It’s one of those
productions you hear about, that you’re aware of.’
Directed by Michael Grandage, the two-hander
revolves around what happens when Mark Rothko is
commissioned to create a set of murals for New York’s
Four Seasons restaurant (it doesn’t go well). Alfred
Molina plays Rothko and Enoch his ictional assistant,
Ken. It’s the irst British revival since Grandage directed
the play’s debut at the Donmar in 2009. Back then, Ken
was played by Eddie Redmayne. A Broadway transfer
followed, along with six Tony Awards.
It also marks Enoch’s arrival as a serious player in
West End theatre. Until now he has been best known
for his screen work; before HTGAWM, he played
Hogwarts pupil Dean Thomas in the Harry Potter
ilms. But he has been steadily racking up smaller stage
roles: Edgar in King Lear at the Royal Exchange; Titus
Lartius in Josie Rourke’s Coriolanus at the Donmar and
Philotus in Nicholas Hytner’s Timon of Athens. Right

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 13
ARKET jumper, Old school: Alfred
£45 (arket.com) Enoch in 2005’s
Harry Potter and
the Goblet of Fire,
left; with Viola
Davis in How to
Get Away with
Murder, below; at
the Globe Theatre
with his father,
William Russell
Enoch, in 1999,
bottom

Shakespeare’s Globe that

really captured his imagi-
nation: ‘The combination of
theatre and Elizabethan
England was a really fasci-
nating thing.’ When Russell
played King Charles VI of
France opposite Mark
Rylance as Henry V, Enoch painted his room at home in
Gospel Oak royal blue in the play’s honour. Aged 10 he
landed a speaking role in a National Youth Music
Theatre production of The Ballad of Salomon Pavey.
Yet his dream of becoming a professional actor
almost didn’t happen. When he was 11 a team of casting
directors visited his school, Westminster, to hold audi-
tions for the irst Harry Potter ilm. ‘They cast the net
wide. Pretty much everyone auditioned.’ Everyone
except him: ‘I thought, “This is unrealistic, it’s not going
to happen,” and probably beneath that was some kind
of fear that already I knew it was what I wanted to do.
So I didn’t want to be told I couldn’t do it, I wasn’t good
enough.’ There was another factor, too: ‘I remember
“I used to watch movies my thinking, “Are there any black characters in Harry
dad had done and think, Potter apart from Lee Jordan?”’ In the irst ilm, Jordan
is in his third year at Hogwarts — considerably older
‘This just seems like fun”’ than Enoch.
Fate intervened. One of the casting directors caught
Enoch’s turn in The Ballad of Salomon Pavey. They invited
him to audition — and the rest is history. Enoch went on
from the irst audition Grandage, says Enoch, ‘was to appear as Dean Thomas in all eight ilms over the
lovely. We worked, do you know what I mean? I felt like course of 10 years, juggling ilming with schoolwork (and,
I’d got something out of it, aside from the part as it later, a degree in Spanish and Portuguese at Oxford).
turned out.’ How to Get Away with Murder followed in 2014; he
Enoch has been obsessed with acting for as long as won the part ater auditioning on Skype. Despite mis-
he can remember. His Brazilian-born mother, Etheline, givings over whether his skin colour would preclude him
was a doctor while his father is the actor William Russell from Harry Potter, it was his time ilming in the States
Enoch, aka Doctor Who’s original assistant, Ian that really made him relect on diversity in the industry.
Alamy; Getty

Chesterton. ‘I used to watch war movies that my dad Last year he penned a moving article for a national
had done in the Fities and Sixties and I was like, “This newspaper in the form of a letter to his younger self. ‘It
just seems like fun.”’ But it was his dad’s work for is precisely your identity as an outsider — as a foreigner

14 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
 “I remember thinking,
‘Are there any black
characters in Harry Potter
apart from Lee Jordan?’”

and a person of colour — that will give you a new per-

spective on your ethnicity,’ he wrote. ‘You will begin to
ask, for the irst time, what it is to be black in a predomi-
nantly white society.’
What does he make of criticisms that black British
actors, among them Daniel Kaluuya and David Oyelowo,
appear to need to go to the US to achieve fame? It turns
out he has given this a lot of thought. ‘I think there are a
couple of things here. Firstly the industry is bigger…
there’s a hell of a lot of work out there.’ That aside, he
argues that the US’s problematic racial history has cre-
ated an ‘engagement that impels people to work against
it’. Finally: ‘There’s a more evident black history in
America… it’s harder to make a ilm about 19th-century
America and not have a single black person.’
The lip side is that there are those in the US — notably
Samuel L Jackson — who have criticised black British
actors for taking work from Americans. ‘I mean, there
are lots of modulations of that question, do you know
what I mean?’ says Enoch, thoughtfully. ‘There are lots
of ways you could ask that, not just “can a black English
actor play a black American?” It gets to a point where
actors don’t get to do any acting… Alfred Molina can’t
play Rothko. He’s not a Latvian émigré to America.
Where do you draw the line?’
Either way, he would like to see more colour-blind
casting of classics and period dramas: ‘It’s a responsibil-
ity that I think, yes, exists. I think it’s beneicial… There’s OLIVER SPENCER jacket,
the way we appropriate diferent cultures in a way we’re £310; trousers, £159
(oliverspencer.co.uk).
comfortable with. I don’t know — was there a big SANDRO top, £120 (uk.
outcry about Brad Pitt playing Achilles [in the ilm sandro-paris.com). DR
MARTENS boots, £135
Troy]? Don’t think so.’ In contrast, he points to the (drmartens.com)
recent BBC/Netlix miniseries Troy: Fall of a City
in which he played the Trojan hero Aeneas: ‘David
Gyasi plays Achilles and it’s a certain indica- its actors and audiences: ‘It has to be for everyone. It
tion of how far it has to come that there can’t just be for people like me, who went to Westminster…
were people on the internet and out in the That’s self-defeating.’ For Red, more than 40,000 tickets
world that were saying, “A black Achilles?” will be available for £10 — some 25 per cent. ‘It’s vital. Getty; with thanks to Harry Adams studio at L-13 (L-13.org)
But no one goes, “A blonde, long-haired Otherwise people are like, “I’m going to go to the theatre
Achilles?” It’s extraordinary.’ and pay £80?”’
A former public schoolboy, he is sym- Having moved back from LA ater the end of his time
pathetic to claims that acting has on How to Get Away with Murder (his character died in
become too posh. ‘I’m immensely grate- series three), he is single and lives in north-west London.
ful that I had all those opportunities. When he’s not doing Shakespeare readings he plays foot-
But that’s obviously problematic in a ball with friends — or goes to the theatre. ‘It’s a bit of a
society where some people get easier busman’s holiday, but it’s genuinely something that I
access to things like that than others. just really love,’ he says, almost apologetically. What
To me that’s self-evidently not would be his ideal part, on stage or screen? He looks
right.’ If things are to panicked. Doctor Who, I suggest, thinking of his dad.
change, London’s theatre He considers. ‘I don’t know. I was going to say Henry V.’
Trojan force: scene needs to be proac- Why am I not surprised?
Enoch as
Aeneas in Troy: tive in broadening the eco- Alfred Enoch appears in ‘Red’ at Wyndham’s Theatre from
Fall of a City nomic background of both 4 May to 28 July (delfontmackintosh.co.uk)

16 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
CHAOS chenille letter bag & luggage
tags, £120 each (chaos.club)

THEORY Stylists Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall’s luxury lifestyle

accessories put the personality into personalisation.
Katrina Israel meets the dynamite duo behind Chaos

A
s the spring sunshine we really need, want and use,’ says Stockdale, and now employs 17 people. ‘It was born out
streams through the demonstrating the new elasticised ‘Hand of the need to go hands-free,’ says Stockdale,
19th-century windows Hug’ phone case, named by Cara Delevingne, her brightly hued Chaos iPhone case (priced
of Chaos’s Pimlico HQ, I which effortlessly slips over the hand and from £145) hanging from the handy Chaos
f i nd sup er - st yl i st s keeps your phone still while you film. They elastic lanyard (from £75) looped around
turned co -founders gave a few friends, including Adwoa Aboah her neck. ‘There was a proper gap for a lux-
Charlotte Stockdale and and Business of Fashion’s Imran Amed, ver- ury version of all of this that isn’t insanely
Katie Lyall lounging on curved vintage sions to try at Paris Fashion Week: ‘They expensive or too gimmicky.’
Fendi couches, shaggy sheepskin rugs were like, “OMG, I can now film the end of a Given their visual backgrounds — both
underfoot and a giant teddy bear command- show without the wobbles,”’ have worked as stylists for British
ing one corner of their desk-free ‘design adds Lyall. Vogue, i-D and Garage maga-
room’. The only evidence that this is a work- Solving practical design zine in addition to their Chaos
space is the abundance of electronic devices quandaries with style Fashion consultancy (estab-
strewn about. and humour is Chaos’s lished in 1998) working
But then Chaos — whose cult-issue travel modus operandi. It with megabrands from
accessories, including phone cases, passport launched in November Victoria’s Secret to Chanel
covers and luggage tags, have been embraced 2016 with a teaser — you can be sure that
by pop culture giants from Elon Musk to film starring supers form is as crucial as func-
Beyoncé — isn’t your ordinary company. The Karlie Kloss, Taylor tion. ‘You’ve spent so
professional-lifestyle blend evident in the Hill and Anna Ewers, much money on your
room is a fitting metaphor for the 18-month- Karl Lagerfeld with Charlotte
phone, why should it not
old brand. ‘Our designs are truly stuff that Stockdale, left, and Katie Lyall look as good or be as

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 19
 By design: Katie
Lyall and Charlotte
Stockdale

“YOU’VE SPENT SO MUCH MONEY ON YOUR PHONE, WHY SHOULD IT NOT

LOOK AS GOOD OR BE AS CUSTOMISED AS EVERYTHING ELSE IN YOUR LIFE?”

customised as everything else in your life?’ personalisation personality,’

asks Lyall of their cases, which can be per- adds Lagerfeld.
sonalised with thousands of variations. ‘He’s our club president,’
At the time of its launch, customisation says Lyall, smiling when I men-
was all the rage — and ubiquitous. But Chaos tion him. ‘We’ve learned so
proved more than just a fad. ‘I was beginning much from him,’ agrees
to tire of personalised everything,’ says Stockdale. ‘He’s just extremely
Karl Lagerfeld, one of the brand’s decisive. He has the ability to
biggest cheerleaders (Lyall and look at something and go,
Stockdale have been Fendi “That one”, and it’s done. No
consultants for the past decade). ‘But second guesses. No worrying
then along came Chaos and breathed about it. It’s done. Move on to
new life into the whole concept.’ At a the next thing.’
Paris party for Chaos during the recent ‘Also, he forgets nothing,’
AW18 collections Lagerfeld could be seen adds Lyall. ‘He has a photo-
François Goize; John Akehurst

Above, Chaos at
styling Edward Enninful and Jefferson Selfridges. CHAOS graphic memory.’
iPhone case, £165;
Hack with the pair’s limited-edition gold plated zip
As well as being long-term business
football scarves, dropping in May. lanyard, £90; partners, Lyall and Stockdale are also the
luggage
‘Now they’ve created a line of tag, £150;
best of friends. At the weekend you’ll fi nd
products ubiquitous within the passport them back together at Scott’s, La Petit
cover, £170;
fashion community but entirely elastic lanyard,
Maison or Cecconi’s in Mayfair, or La Poule
fun and sophisticated. They gave £75 (chaos.club) Au Pot in Belgravia. They met when

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 21
Stockdale enlisted Lyall to work with her on ‘I left school and had no idea what I
British Vogue; she admired Lyall’s ‘big wanted to do,’ says Lyall, who grew up in
balls’. ‘We have lady balls in common!’ Stepney. ‘I came from quite a creative family
agrees Lyall. ‘And an equal lack of fear of and wanted to be creative — I just didn’t
a challenge.’ know how.’ Her father, David Lyall, is a
Lyall joined Stockdale at i-D and later at cabinetmaker, while her mother, Jackie,
Garage, Dasha Zhukova’s art magazine. ‘We ‘can pretty much make anything from
keep each other up and try to do everything anything’, from pattern-cutting to book-
together,’ says Stockdale of their dynamic binding, upholstering to baking. Growing
partnership. Victoria’s Secret was another up, ‘it was normal to be able to pick what
shared client; they were creative directors of colour your dress would be’.
its fashion show from 2000-2011. ‘It’s tough Twinning and
That sense of pragmatism continues at
now with the current climate. They’re an winning: Cara Chaos. Early instigators of the athleisure
obvious target,’ says Lyall. Stockdale inter- Delevingne movement (today they’re both in trainers:
and Margot
jects: ‘But the girls love doing it, so no one Robbie sport Stockdale in a pair of Virgil Abloh’s Nike Air
should be able to belittle their choice.’ Chaos Jordan 1s, teamed with a Chaos Karl T-shirt
tracksuits.
‘Also they’re healthy, they work out, Below, the and black Vera Wang tafeta trousers, and
they’re so fit,’ adds Lyall. ‘Paris Fashion Chaos Lyall in some sci-i Balenciaga sneakers with
collection
Week versus that is a whole diferent thing in a Cos cardi and trousers), the pair made their
terms of the enjoyment they irst foray into RTW with a
have doing the show. It’s a set of ‘evening’ tracksuits
dream compared to a fash- designed for Delevingne and
ion week schedule.’ Margot Robbie during their
Stockdale, who was Suicide Squad promo tour.
brought up in Hampshire, ‘There wasn’t a tracksuit
the daughter of former law- out there that is both chic
yer Sir Thomas Stockdale, and simple,’ says Stockdale.
2nd Baronet of Hoddington, In June they will be rolling
began her initial lirtation out limited-edition runs in
with fashion through mod- silk, lannel and men’s suit-
elling. After Heathfield ing fabrications.
boarding school (alumnae Before that, in May,
include Isabella Blow and there will be a line of ‘tour’
Sienna Miller), Stockdale T-shirts featuring imagery
was at the Lee Strasberg from their passion project,
Studio acting school in New Chaos SixtyNine magazine,
York when she was ‘scouted’ at a party. ‘I got which they launched last year. ‘We don’t
tricked into modelling,’ she exhales. Turns
“I THOUGHT, I’LL BECOME A want to lose the editorial side of what we’ve
out the partygoer did not work for Elite, but STYLIST — IT CAN’T BE THAT been doing for so long,’ says Lyall. ‘It keeps
the person who picked up her cold call felt so HARD. PUT A BLACK DRESS our world alive and it’s really important to
sorry for her that they told her to drop by. ‘I ON SOMEONE. THAT WAS what we do,’ adds Stockdale. ‘People we love
went in and she was like: “Come back in a like Amanda Harlech did a Mongolia travel
month when you’ve lost a stone.”’ Stockdale
MY NAIVE APPROACH” section, Katie Grand a cheese on toast rec-
was 18 and tried until she was 22 to ‘make it’, ipe,’ adds Lyall. Early versions of the T-shirts
even relocating to Paris. ‘I hated it,’ she knocked up during fashion week featured
laughs, ‘I hated being unsuccessful — it’s images of Delevingne and Aboah from the
really demoralising.’ magazine, with proceeds going to each wom-
What she did enjoy was being on set. ‘I an’s preferred charities.
thought, I’ll become a stylist — it can’t be Ater that — who knows? Nothing is of
that hard. Put a black dress on someone,’ she limits. ‘Imagine your 10 favourite things
remembers. ‘That was my naive approach.’ with a Chaos twist,’ says Lyall. ‘That’s what
François Goize; Rex

And so she began following in the footsteps we want to do.’

of her mother, Lady Jacqueline Stockdale, ‘Anything from homewares to a car,’
an artist and stylist at Panton on Beauchamp Chaos club: Peter Saville, Stockdale’s husband Marc
Stockdale pings back. ‘I mean, you can’t buy
Place in the 1980s. Newson and Katie Grand at Paris Fashion Week a great doormat anywhere,’ beams Lyall.

22 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
 Cosmic: the
Principal Hotel

’m accidentally a guest at the irst lock-in at

I
Bloomsbury’s newest, coolest restaurant.
Except the half-inished kitchen is draped
in dust sheets rather than streamers, while
pots of paint stand in for Martini glasses —
and we’re not locked in to contain late night
naughtiness, but because someone shut a
currently handleless door, which Neptune
owner Margaret Crow is trying to jimmy
open with her keys. Fortunately her business partner
Brett Redman, with whom she ran Dalston’s celeb- Brett Redman wears PAUL SMITH jacket,
beloved and much mourned pub The Richmond, keeps £395 (paulsmith.com). LANVIN T-shirt,
£210, at matchesfashion.com. Margaret
cool and leads us out a back way. Crow wears BORGO DE NOR crepe
We’re in Bloomsbury’s new hotel, the Principal, a dress, £630, at matchesfashion.com
ridiculously opulent in-de-siècle building overlooking
Russell Square that, in mid-March, is also a building

OUT OF THIS
site. The bedrooms — there are 334 of them, including
40 suites — have been done up by interior designer Tara
Bernerd and come stacked with beautiful cloth-bound
Penguin classics, as an ode to the neighbourhood’s liter-

WORLD
ary history
Crow and Redman have been chosen to take over the
dining room — upon which the Titanic’s luxe restaurant
was based — to create Neptune, a seafood-focused
restaurant with an all-natural wine list and gorgeous
decor: gleaming curved oyster bar, peach walls and art
deco banquettes that Crow designed with the oh so in- They launched east London cult oyster bar
demand Russell Sage Studio (the design outit that has The Richmond and now they’ve set their sights
also crated interiors for chefs including Jason Atherton
and Gordon Ramsay). A plush bar area occupies the
on Bloomsbury’s grandest hotel. Frankie McCoy
entrance; the custom-built range top in the kitchen cost meets Margaret Crow and Brett Redman
more than the entire reit of The Richmond. Handily, the
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DEAN CHALKLEY STYLED BY JENNY KENNEDY
Principal has footed the bill for everything they’ve asked
for — ‘a dream scenario,’ Crow enthuses.
It’s also rather more grown-up than their plaster pharaoh heads that littered the pub in its
previous party palace in Dalston, where the previous incarnation as an Egyptian restaurant.
purple-blue banquettes and green chairs Fizzy, fun and very American, 31-year-old Texan
were occupied by the likes of Alexa Chung Crow’s white blonde bob bounces around the restaurant
and Erdem Moralıoğlu, while Christopher as she kittenishly coaxes the builders into letting us into
Kane and Henry Holland danced on the restricted, door handleless areas. Redman, 37 — the
graphic black and white floor. They wonderchef whose other London restaurants, Elliot’s and
thronged in for oysters and cocktails and two branches of yakitori joint Jidori, are beloved by critics
‘demolition parties’, where friends were and cool kids alike — is more surfer-chilled. Bloomsbury
invited to hack of and take home the giant is a notoriously empty area, with this bit in particular is

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 25
haunted by ugly, cheap hotels Cantabrian anchovy; seafood platters of bonito with
and dismal chains — as he puts young ginger and chives, clam aguachile and Scottish
it, ‘in the middle of everything, langoustines. The ish theme continues at breakfast with
but actually in the middle of kedgeree and, potentially, Prairie Oyster cocktails for
nothing’. ‘God I hope that those needing bucking up ater the night before. Ater
everyone comes to Bloomsbury!’ all, Neptune has a 2am late licence.
Crow laughs. That rule book-ripping house party vibe was that of
A natural wine junkie, Redman’s original Elliot’s in Bethnal Green in 2008, ‘a
Redman’s Borough wine café pop-up before the word pop-up existed’ and
Elliot’s was the irst restaurant in ‘totally illegal, no licence’. The second Elliot’s
London to have an all-natural in Borough Market — fully legal and licensed
list. Neptune will up the — hit the news for terrible reasons in June
biodynamic ante with breakfast last year when the restaurant was a target
wine for those who want to get the party started at 7am. during the London Bridge terror attacks
Crow and Redman know how to host a party. Before that let eight dead. A customer and a
The Richmond closed last year, it was known for lock- manager, Candice Hedge, were
ins. ‘When we would throw a party, there were no rules,’ attacked in the restaurant by one of the
grins Crowe, impishly. ‘People would come and do what four attackers, with Hedge slashed in
they wanted, it was chaotic. We’d cover the ceiling with the neck. The knife narrowly missed
hundreds of balloons — balloons make people go crazy. her windpipe. Thankfully both she and
People used to have sex in the toilets…’ The Principal the customer recovered.
might not be quite prepared for this. Neptune is a rambunctious riposte to
Crow came to London having been thrown out of eight the tragedy: a celebration of life and pure,
schools in Dallas and sent to boarding school in Scotland. unadulterated fun. Even the branding is
She refused to return stateside, instead talking her way exuberant. Designed by Redman’s brother
into London College of Fashion to study fashion journalism Craig of graphic design duo Craig & Karl, it’s
and later working as a stylist for Russian Vogue, Love and space age Woodstock meets The Little Mermaid:
i-D. She met Redman in 2005 while blagging free wi-i at ‘stretchy, bendy’ and ‘trying to match the sea
the café in Shoreditch where the chef, newly arrived from with outer space, playing into the dual associations
of Neptune, the sea god and planet’. The highly
“WHEN WE WOULD THROW A PARTY, THERE covetable staff uniforms are designed by another of
Crow’s fashion pals, Geofrey J Finch, who is creating
WERE NO RULES. PEOPLE WOULD COME AND Neptune-logoed shirts and ‘more skater than waiter’
DO WHAT THEY WANTED, IT WAS CHAOTIC” uniform socks.
‘Surprisingly, Principal is so cool about it,’ says Crow.
Perth, Australia, had landed his irst London job. He was From top, Brett
‘They’ve let us do whatever we want to do.’ The hotel can’t
garnering brilliant reviews at Elliot’s in 2015 when Crow Redman’s café, Elliot’s; say it hasn’t been warned. ‘It was suggested we dress the
Crow and Redman’s
got bored of the never-ending fashion season carousel. ‘I regulars, Pixie Geldof,
shelves with books, and jars of things pickling… we were
wasn’t interested in clothes any more. And I decided I just Henry Holland and Alexa like, it sounds like a Pinterest board.’ Instead of ‘objets’,
Chung; smoked eel
wanted to eat: to talk about food, think about food.’ chowder will be on the
they’re stacking speakers on every ledge to blast their
Not that Crow is wearing rags now, glugging her funky menu at Neptune eclectic soundtrack of Beyoncé, D’Angelo and Pearl Jam,
Sardinian Garnacha in leopard-trimmed Saint Laurent while their version of a private
leather. And not that she abandoned her fashion friends. dining room — a table on a raised
That loyal band of cool kids follows them around London plinth, curtained of to contain
— Nick Grimshaw and Pixie Geldof, Richmond regulars, naughtiness — is hung with a
recently christened the new Covent Garden outpost of ‘Neptune’ peach disco ball, just
Jidori by belting out karaoke in the basement. One fan is waiting to glitter. ‘We want it to
already en route to Bloomsbury. ‘I love Mags and knew feel like a house party in here, all
her before The Richmond launched, so was so excited of the time,’ says Crow. Ater all,
when they opened in our neighbourhood,’ enthuses Henry Bloomsbury used to be a hub of
Holland. ‘The food was always exceptional, cocktails scandal in Edwardian times.
amazing and the service even better. The oyster menu ‘I guess it’s all in the same
was deinitely the best in east London. I can’t wait to try spirit as the Bloomsbury Set, you
Neptune. Let’s hope I can get a table.’ know, wife-swapping with that
While Crow brings the fashion pack, Redman brings ramshackle aesthetic and no
the food. Neptune will have a raw bar and wood-ired rules.’ If you want it, she says,
steaks, plus an updated sustainable ‘caviar service’, with and they can do it, you can have
home-made wales in place of soggy blinis to make it. Ater all, she shrugs, ‘Why
scoing sturgeon eggs less snooty. The Neptune menu would we be s***?’
sounds brilliant: smoked eel chowder with quail eggs and Neptune opens at the Principal on
curry butter; Caesar salad with katsuobushi and 14 May (neptune.london)

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 27
 HOT
STEPPER
He is the design force behind some of
the fashion industry’s biggest accessory hits.
Tilly Macalister-Smith meets Stuart Weitzman’s
new creative director, Giovanni Morelli

E
ntering the gargantuan ad campaigns covering the side of buildings streak. Taped to the window overlooking the
headquarters of Tapestry — featuring Kate Moss and Gigi Hadid. river are his inspiration pictures, pulled from
parent company of Coach, Intentionally ‘unbranded’, Stuart Weitzman books and Instagram: Lauren Hutton,
Kate Spade and Stuart shoes have been the go-to for the safely Emmanuelle Alt, Beyoncé, Kate Moss. He is
Weitzman — in New York’s style conscious, but ot sidestepped by the drawn to a healthy, American style of beauty,
imposing Hudson Yards, a cutting-edge fashion crowd. That is until a fresh and athletic vision.
new glistening glass development as big as a now: these accessories are about to get kudos In February this year, he revealed his pre-
village in the sky, the weight of responsibility in a new level. fall 18 collection (in store in May) at New
of Stuart Weitzman’s new creative director, Morelli is the newest in a rat of designer York’s hottest uptown venue, The Pool. He’s
Giovanni Morelli, is omnipresent. appointments made by big houses that are been furiously expanding into categories —
Morelli, an afable, handsome Italian who substituting star names with lesser-knowns boots, pumps, wedges. ‘We did a lot of pumps,
is easy to laugh, wears the pressure lightly — Alessandro Michele for Gucci sparked the starting from scratch — a straight heel, a
— he arrived in New York one year ago with trend, as did Saint Laurent’s rising star curvy heel.’ And new lats. ‘Flats are not
an unstoppable track record of creating best- Anthony Vaccarello. Today, fashion is more dead, but it isn’t about wearing ballerinas
selling handbags for some of the world’s big- data-driven than ever, with consumer and any more.’ His replacement? A reimagined
gest fashion houses. He was responsible for audience insights available to marketing Belgian structured slipper (you will want to
Marc Jacobs’ Stam bag, the Chloé and merchandise teams, but Morelli wear this with cropped ankle jeans) called
Paddington and Loewe’s Hammock bag bats this away: ‘Intuition,’ he affirms. The Slipknot. There’s jewellery coming too;
among others. In August 2016, Stuart ‘First we decided what we wanted to do slices of expensive-looking coloured stone
Weitzman, the man himself, announced his with the brand: become a destination point with gold hardware in a decadent 1970s
successor ater a half century long career in for women, real women,’ he says, impas- mood. The quality is high — more than 95
shoe design. Morelli’s mission? ‘To give a sioned. ‘So no matter how you dress you per cent of the shoes are produced in Spain
fashion point of view to can find shoes in our — and the price point fair: compared
this house.’ brand.’ In 2017 Stuart with many designer brands where
The 32-year-old shoe
MORELLI’S Weitzman netted £265 shoes retail for around the £750
brand has been made
GREATEST million in sales, an 8 per mark, Stuart Weitzman sells closer
famous over the years
HITS cent increase on the to £400 on average.
for its Nudist sandals and 2004: CHLOÉ previous year. So what’s his recipe for creating
Paddington bag
50 /50 thigh-high boots We meet in Morelli’s iconic accessories? ‘I think the term
— this year impressively open-plan design stu- iconic is a little pretentious,’ he
celebrating its 25th anni- 2016: LOEWE dio on the umpteenth begins. ‘The market will tell you if
versary — worn by the Hammock bag loor. Dramatic views of something is iconic or not. For
Courtesy of Stuart Weitzman

world’s most googled the Hudson River serve as Burberry it was commercial, so it
names, from Em ily a backdrop. He’s dressed was a moment with STUART
Ratajkowski and Rosie in a simple navy crew the logo and then it WEITZMAN
Huntington-Whiteley to neck T-shirt and black became giant. For 50/50 boots,
£495 (stuart
Cara Delevingne and 2005: MARC jeans — only a peak of a Chloé, I wanted to weitzman.com)
Bella Hadid. You’ll have JACOBS Chrome Hearts chain do a sexy leather bag
Stam bag
seen the black and white gives away a rebellious with no logo. At the

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 29
time it was all about Fendi, Gucci, Dior — Shoe-ins: longer life. I think it’s a kind of trap to have
another logo moment. It was also crazy even Gigi and Kate this creation, every season.’
for Stuart
to think a small ready-to-wear brand could Weitzman Born in Cosenza (the ball of the foot in
become giant in terms of leather goods. And Italy’s boot), Morelli never intended to become
it happened. Also at the time I was working a shoe designer. He studied fashion design at
for Marc [Jacobs] and I was coming to New the Domus Academy in Milan, where he
York, and we started to do this bag, but it was received his master’s. ‘I wanted to do ready-
just an idea of a diferent way to do a cool bag. to-wear, this was my dream. Prada was the
People were wearing jeans, lip-lops, vintage only brand I liked, so I kept calling and ater
shirts and a $1,000 bag. It was changing.’ some attempts Ms Prada told me, “Okay, you
Today, consumer behavior is changing can work here.” When I arrived in Tuscany at
again and he believes the era of the It-bag is the factory, [CEO and Miuccia Prada’s hus-
over. Right at the moment he’s been brought band] Mr Bertelli told me I had to start with
in to develop a bag line. ‘There has been an bags. I never even thought about it. And this
overdose of bags. Today, I don’t think the was how I started. It was his decision not
phenomenon of the It-bag is there any more,’ mine. And that’s when I fell in love with it.’
he conirms. ‘But there is still desire. I think Ater his time at Prada, Morelli moved to
ater the time of “fashion, fashion, fashion” Dolce & Gabbana where he grew the acces-
it became the time of Hermès sories division, including custom jewellery
and Chanel, for another kind of and scarves. Then came Burberry for ive
customer, or the same cus- years; ater the irst three of which he started
tomer that wanted something work for Chloé. Chloé lasted 15 years before
new. Then that became sub- Loewe, and then Stuart Weitzman called.
urban. But this [cycle] is “The term iconic is pretentious. Morelli seems to inherently understand
fashion.’ What will this The market will tell you if the balance of creativity and commerce
mean for the industry, required for a role such as his. ‘Fashion is
where volume of production,
something is iconic or not” hard. It’s complicated,’ he says, but his drive
profit margins and sales for creativity paired with commercial dexter-
plans are reported on daily? STUART ity produces desirable products that you can
‘Right now I am in the mood WEITZMAN actually wear, that function and that sell.
heels, £480 (stuart
to do something that has a weitzman.com) ‘It’s a starting point,’ he smiles.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CARIN BACKOFF
STYLED BY JENNY KENNEDY

Bike suit, vintage.

LOUIS VUITTON
bag, £1,570
(louisvuitton.com)

32 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
BIKER BELLE
As a child she had to lee from Hurricane Katrina;
as a teenager she was scouted on a beach in California.
Now Selena Forrest is taking the fashion world by storm.
She tells Samuel Fishwick her incredible story
MAX MARA camisole, POA
(gb.maxmara.com)

Opposite page,
STELLA MCCARTNEY
jumpsuit, £1,165
(stellamccartney.com).
NATASHA ZINKO bra top,
£710 (natashazinko.com).
LOUIS VUITTON trainers,
£780 (louisvuitton.com)

34 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
S
elena Forrest aces the #blessed and
#woke tests. At 18, the model of
the moment has already spent two
years walking runways for Chanel,
Louis Vuitton and Proenza Schouler,
starred in ad campaigns for DKNY,
has more than 50,000 followers
on Instagram and is being widely
hailed as one of fashion’s most
exciting new trailblazers. But it’s her
#sass we fell in love with when we
saw her owning the Fendi catwalk
in Milan last season with a wink and a strut.
The teenager, who splits her downtime between a
midtown apartment in New York and her family home
in Los Angeles, has the infectious, laconic charm of a
naturalised Californian: self-assured, post-label. ‘I’m
more of a try-sexual. I’ll try anything twice,’ she says.
‘Technically I’d be called a bisexual, for instance, but
I prefer women. I can see myself marrying a woman
for the rest of my life, but I could not see myself marry-
ing a man, no way. I don’t consider myself anything. I
want everyone to feel like they can be themselves —
unless they’re a serial killer.’
Originally from Lafayette, Louisiana, Forrest grew
up tough, driving quad bikes with her older brothers
Robert, 25, and Anthony, 29, and learning how to
shoot bows, arrows and shotguns with her dad, Robert,
a former deep sea diver. Her little sister, Dakota, is 15.
Her father broke up with her mum, Roxanne, who
worked in oil reineries, before Forrest was six months
old. Roxanne moved to California while Forrest
remained with her dad.
‘I didn’t have to talk to my parents about coming out
— my mum already knew,’ she says.
In 2005, Hurricane Katrina forced them to lee
across the country to California. ‘We had to get out of
our neighbourhood. But it wasn’t like a tragic time. I
was so you ng that it was fun — we were eating military-
style rations that came with candy bars, so I was super
happy about that.’
Things got worse before they got better. ‘In America
it’s hard — my family fell on hard times, that’s what
happened. It’s not about how I got there, it’s about
how I got out of there,’ she says. ‘I was in a bad environ-
ment before I was blessed with my job. Before I started

“I’M MORE OF A TRY-SEXUAL. I’LL TRY ANYTHING TWICE.

I CAN SEE MYSELF MARRYING A WOMAN, BUT I
COULD NOT SEE MYSELF MARRYING A MAN, NO WAY”

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 35
 “THE FIRST THING I DO WHEN I WAKE UP IS ROLL A
JOINT — THEN I MEDITATE A BIT, DO SOME BREATHING
EXERCISES. THEN I START MY DAY FROM THERE”

modelling I lived in a straight trap house — a place

where people come and buy drugs and s*** like that. I
tried to keep my mind right and have faith in myself
and believe in myself.’
At 16, she was scouted while she was at Huntington
Beach, California, with her cousins. ‘A security guard
stopped us and took the [smuggled] alcohol, which
was the downside,’ she recalls. ‘But at the same time
there was a lady who came running out of a restaurant
and said, “Have you ever thought of modelling?”’ At
irst, Forrest blew her of. ‘I was hesitant about it. But
when I started seeing it was the real deal I started
thinking about how can I make this into something that
can set me up for life.’
The woman soon introduced Forrest to what would
become her first agency. But there were further
obstacles. To secure her irst modelling job, she removed
her own braces with a set of pliers ater she was quoted
$1,100 to have them taken out, and she still can’t get her
head around heels. ‘I’m so used to sneakers,’ she says,
preferring to spend her spare time skateboarding or play-
ing basketball rather than working on her walk. ‘When I
irst started they wanted to put me in walking classes and
s***. I was like, oh my God, this is not for me.’
But defying convention has become part of her
brand. Opening Proenza Schouler’s spring 2016 show,
she added a little victory jig ater walking of the run-
way. ‘I don’t think we’re ever going to get that perfect
model walk from me. Not being the norm — I guess
that’s part of my thing.’
Despite a successful engagement with Instagram,
she tries to steer clear of social media, acutely aware
of the Cambridge Analytica and Facebook data
scandals gripping the States. ‘My dad taught and
instilled in me to be private — he said from the get go,
before this Facebook s***, that they’re listening to us
through our phones,’ she explains. ‘I’m not surprised
but it does make me wanna not have all that stuf.
They’ve made us so comfortable with this digital, fake
world. We’re so dependent on it. It’s just a way to control
us and disengage us.
‘Right when we wake up, we’re on Instagram, right
when we go to sleep, we’re on Instagram. The irst thing
I do when I wake up is roll a joint, at say, like, s***,
8.30am or 9am, then I stretch, meditate a bit, do some
breathing exercises. Then I start my day from there.’
It seems to be working.
The only thing that worries her at the moment is
that girls are ‘in way too much competition with each
other’, she says, in modelling as in all walks of life. ‘At
castings I make sure I go out and say good luck to
everybody — they’re too scared to say that. There
needs to be a lot less taking each other down. There’s
deinitely enough room for all of us at the top. I hope
we all make it — I’m not in competition with anybody
but my old self.’

36 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
 MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
swimsuit, £290,
at farfetch.com.
THE KOOPLES bag,
£288 (thekooples.co.uk)

Opposite page, PRADA

jacket, £6,030; socks, £140;
shoes, £535 (prada.com)

Hair by Luke Chamberlain

for Bumble and Bumble.
Make-up by Sil Bruinsma
at Streeters using
Herbivore Botanicals.
Fashion assistants: Eniola
Dare, Camilla Stella and
Connie Parkinson
Designer Matty Bovan in
Hornsey with KATE SPADE
woven basket bag,
£358 (katespade.co.uk)
 From left, all in Bow,
artist Julie Verhoeven
with COACH X KEITH
HARING camera bag,
£350; Charlie carryall,
£475 (uk.coach.com)

Designer Giles Deacon

with LULU GUINNESS
heart bag, £175
(luluguinness.com).
LOUIS VUITTON circle
bag, £3,050
(louisvuitton.com).
JIMMY CHOO tote bag,
£1,195 (jimmychoo.com)

DJ, film-maker and

artist Jeffrey Hinton
with ASPINAL OF
LONDON Mini Trunk
clutch bag; Letterbox
saddle bag, £450 each
(aspinaloflondon.com)

OVER THE
RAINBOW
What happens when design duo Rottingdean Bazaar get
their hands on the latest It-bags? A Wizard of Oz-themed
shoot with London’s fashion mavericks, of course...
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LUCY ALEX MAC COMMISSIONING EDITOR RICHARD GRAY
ART DIRECTION AND STYLING BY ROTTINGDEAN BAZAAR

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 39
 From left, all in Hornsey, art and fashion students
Declan Needham, Adam Leach, Daniel Stevenson with
DIOR Mini J’Adior flap bags, from £2,550 (dior.com);
Freyja Newsome with DIOR D-fence saddle bag, £2,550
(dior.com) and PAUL SMITH yellow stripe canvas hobo
bag, £595 (paulsmith.com); Lucas Nettleton-Tate with
ZARA tote and cross bag, £29.99 each (zara.co.uk)

40 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
Fashion East founder Lulu
Kennedy in Forest Gate with
CHANEL evening boxbag, £8,255
(chanel.com). EMPORIO ARMANI
top handle bag, £570 (armani.com)

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 41
Designer Dilara
Findikoğlu at The Castle
pub in North Acton, with
EMPORIO ARMANI
eagle-shaped shoulder
bag, £300 (armani.com).
RIVER ISLAND trunk
suitcase, £95
(riverisland.com)

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 43
Designer Charles Jeffrey, left, and Murat Cifci, manager of
Emerald Express, in Walthamstow with ANYA HINDMARCH
Chubby Cube cross-body bag, £495 (anyahindmarch.com).
RIVER ISLAND bum bag, £22 (riverisland.com)

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 45
 BEAUTY
BY ROSE BEER

VITAMIN SEA
Dive in with salts, oils
and gels that harness
ingredients from the
ocean deep
Set by Julia Dias

From left, AESOP Lucent Facial Concentrate, £77 (aesop.com). DR DENNIS GROSS SKINCARE Hyaluronic Marine Dew It All Eye Gel,
£58, at cultbeauty.co.uk. HERBIVORE BOTANICALS Detox Soaking Salts, £16, at spacenk.com. HAECKELS Seaweed Body Cleanser,
£34, at libertylondon.com. RITUALS The Ritual of Banyu body cream, £19.50 (rituals.com).

PHOTOGRAPH BY ADAM GOODISON STYLED BY LILY WORCESTER 27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 47

 BEAUTY You beauty!
ON THE SOAPBOX
Co-founder of The Rooted Project, NHS
dietitian RoSie SauNT talks vitamin D
and explains why we need more

P
eople oten ask me what
supplements are worth taking
and I usually say that if you
don’t have a deiciency, a varied diet
trumps popping vitamin pills. There
is one exception though.
Two years ago, a group of
nutrition experts reviewed the UK’s vitamin
D advice, concluding everyone should
consider taking a daily supplement through
EveryDay-D autumn and winter.
tablets, Vitamin D’s main
£5.95
(aliment function is to regulate the
nutrition. quantity of calcium and phosphate
in the body — both are vital for
the growth and maintenance of
healthy muscles, teeth and bones.
As a rule most of us are short
of vitamin D. Traces are found in
foods such as oily ish, eggs and fortiied
cereals, but the bulk is made from sunlight
acting on our skin, of which the critical
Vitamin D3 wavelength doesn’t reach the UK
softgels, £5.28, in winter. Thus current advice
at turmeric

D
andhoney.co.uk suggests it’s best to supplement. uring the winter it’s all about body lotion:
Meanwhile, those with little sun something rich but easily absorbed that’s
exposure and those with darker skin, including immediately sucked up by parched skin.
most people of African or South Asian origin, But as the days lengthen, the heating goes
should consider supplementation year round. of and the limbs are unveiled, I switch my allegiance to
So which supplement is best? The correct body oil. Because it adds a little gloss as it hydrates.
dose (10 micrograms, or 400 IU) is the form
BetterYou
Annabel And because the very application of it necessitates a bit
you’re most likely to take. You can get cheap of a circulation-boosting massage that in no way can I
DLux1000
and cheerful tablets from your local high street oral spray,
Rivkin usually be arsed to do. Who has time?
£6.95,at
chemist. And if you don’t like swallowing pills, hollandand oils up and Good body oils are not hard to ind, but allow me
gummies or mouth sprays are also available. barrett.com winds down to introduce you to The Soap Co’s new all-natural,
chemical-free range. Its Unwind Body Oil is a gentle and
slightly old-fashioned bed of lavender, sandalwood and
HEADSPACE juniper berry oils for a relaxing and familiar scent. Jojoba
seed and evening primrose oils will condition skin and
there’s also some calendula to heal and soothe (stretch
WHO LOVES YOU
Bashail Skin Revitalising BJÖRK & BERRIES marks and all that annoying jazz) as well as omega 6
Bath Elixir, £20.99 Bath Salt, £27, at
johnlewis.com
fatty acids for full-on hydration. There are also washes
(wholovesyou.co.uk)
and creams and bath oils in six elegant fragrances.
So all that is lovely but it’s not the point. The point
is that this east London-based initiative is manned
and womanned by a staf 80 per cent of whom are
visually impaired, disabled or disadvantaged. You will
notice that the labels are also written in Braille.
This is a luxury, eco bath and body brand with
exceedingly smart design, and it aims to create
INDIE LEE Grapefruit meaningful, ongoing employment for its staf. For every
Citrus Bath Soak, £24, 300 bottles sold, a six-month job and training period is
Josh Shinner

at cultbeauty.co.uk
created to help someone grow in conidence and move on
Soak your stress away by tipping one of these detoxifying and circulation-boosting
to full-time work elsewhere. So you can look good, feel
salty concoctions into the tub. Your body and mind will thank you. good and do good. Not bad for 20 quid. (thesoapco.org)

48 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
 FEAST
DINNER GUEST…
This week Kate Spicer gets down and delicious
at Evelyn’s Table at The Blue Posts

“There was momentary panic when

I wondered if the door would open on
cocaine served of a bald guy’s pate”

The maître d’ did try. ‘You know it’s an orange

wine?’ Yes, I like orange wine.
‘…fermented in an amphora?’ Yes.
What he didn’t add is, ‘It’s one of those wines
that tastes like apple cider vinegar.’
AMBIENCE I’m sure it was great for my gut lora.
FOOD
Luckily, I had Dave, my client, who zoned in on
the six bin-end bargains on the nicely chosen wine
list, speciically a beefy 2006 Barossa Shiraz,

I
’ve set up an escort agency. As the madame which he ordered (and paid for, as is correct). I
of Grape Tarts, I pimp wine hos out to switched to the reliable, luscious Trebbiano, half
bumptious wealthy dullards who need help the price of the orange hipster juice.
drinking seriously expensive wine. This The food was split between good and the last
important social service bridges a societal gulf three dishes we ate, which moved into a diferent
between, say, Mayfair and Harlesden. And means realm of awesome. A deep-fried artichoke
we get to drink ‘the good s***’. pronounced every lavour: yin and yang,
I took my irst client, Dave Wealthy, with me to alternately chewy and crispy outer leaves moved
Evelyn’s Table, a tiny basement counter restaurant into a clean-tasting tender heart. For a thistle, it
in Chinatown. You enter through a secret matched the massive Aussie red well.
downstairs door marked private with a peephole. The big story here is the ish that comes in
There was a momentary panic when I wondered if daily from Looe in Cornwall. Today’s was lemon
the door would open on sex swings and scenes of sole, which we ordered and then cancelled ater
cocaine served of a bald guy’s pate. The room is EVELYN’S TABLE spotting my neighbour’s ish soup, an epic broth of
AT THE BLUE POSTS
not much bigger than a bus. Just 11 seats along a 28 Rupert Street, W1
roasted ishbone stock and loads of booze. Whole
marble counter lit by brass lamps and overlooking (theblueposts.co.uk) pieces of cuttleish, scallop, red bream and squid
a galley kitchen and three graceful, calm chefs. were briely griddled and added to the stock with
Savoury courses come under ive headings: big dollops of intensely garlicky rouille. It was
snacks, raw and cured, pasta, secondi and day 1 Jerusalem artichokes £4 inished with mega crunchy slices of sourdough,
boat ish. Jerusalem artichokes had their 1 Cod beignet £5
glistening with olive oil. ‘This toast is f***ing
crackling-crisp, deep-fried skins illed with the great,’ said Dave. Head chef Luke Robinson is a
Tony Buckingham; illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas

1 Mackerel £9
blitzed, roasted lesh and sprinkled with hazlenuts. man with a ‘ishtory’ for sourcing and cooking
Cod beignets came with smooth taramasalata. 1 Smoked eel £9 great seafood. He spotted our ecstasies and cued
Mackerel came perfectly executed two ways:w 1 Oxtail pappardelle £11
us up two more slices. The third great dish was the
grilled and escabeched. Dave loved it. I didn’t tarte Tatin, achingly perfect and sticky to its soul.
1 Violet artichoke £9
think the methods complemented one another The owners of The Blue Posts are siblings, Zoë
especially. Oxtail ragu with silky pappardelle was 1 Fish soup £22 and Layo Paskin (as in DJ Layo and Bushwacka!).
rich and seductive. Smoked eel is rarely anything 1 Tarte Tatin £7
Everyone cried when they closed their club The
but delicious with beetroot, but didn’t need a End; it was the last great West End nightclub.
2 Sparkling waters £7
weird spiced beet sauce that was redolent of HP Those two are pure class. It goes without saying,
Sauce. Dave liked it. Perhaps it’s a man thing. 2 Glasses of Antonelli Trebbiano £16 the music was spot on. We were exceptionally chill
There are a few special, pricier wines on ofer 1 Glass of TRBLMKR £14
and happy down here in a bunker far away from
by the glass here. I was lulled into buying 125ml West End Saturday night’s screaming orange
1 Bottle of Barossa Shiraz £85
of a vowel-free Czech wine, TRBLMKR zombies; who, unlike my pretentious orange
(geddit?), from a hot young winemaker. TOTAL £198 vowel-less muck, deinitely weren’t undrunk.

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 51
 FEAST
TART LONDON
Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison give posset
a summery basil and pink grapefruit spin

A taste of childhood: Lucy tucks in to

a massive fish finger sandwich

Jemima Jones (left) and Lucy Carr-Ellison

P
osset dates back to the 1500s, when it
was a drink of milk boiled with alcohol,
usually wine or ale, which curdled
before spice and sugar was added.
Today we know it as a decadent, creamy dessert,
traditionally lavoured with lemon. The citrus
reacts with the cream when heated, solidifying
naturally without the addition of gelatine.
In the winter we like to make a blood orange
posset, which is a pretty pink colour. We serve it
with a squeeze of orange juice on top and
macadamia brittle for crunch. Last year we were
obsessed with making the perfect rhubarb
posset, deciding that the best way to intensify
the lavour was to juice the rhubarb stalks and
reduce the liquid by simmering. We also used
honey instead of sugar, which means it was
more a rhubarb cream than a posset — but
delicious anyway. BASIL AND PINK GRAPEFRUIT POSSET WITH
Makes 4 ramekins CARDAMOM AND PISTACHIO SHORTBREAD
To us, basil smells of summer. We love
making strawberry and basil ice cream when For the cookies To make the cookies, beat the butter and the
125g butter, softened
strawberries are really ripe. The herb also works 60g icing sugar
icing sugar together until pale. Fold in the lour,
wonderfully with other fruits — raspberry 190g plain flour, sifted cardamom, pistachios and salt to form a dough.
2 tsp freshly ground cardamom
sorbet, or pineapple with chilli, lime and mint — Handful of pistachios, shelled
Roll into a log shape, wrap in cling ilm and place
and it’s perfect with citrus juices in cocktails, and chopped in the fridge for a couple of hours or until irm.
Pinch of salt
especially a margarita. 2 tbsp coconut or demerara
Heat the oven to 180C. Take the dough out of the
This is a very quick and easy dessert. We sugar fridge and slice thinly. Sprinkle with your sugar
oten make it when we realise we haven’t For the posset
of choice, place on an oven tray and bake for
prepared a pudding and there are people 400ml double cream about 10 minutes till nicely golden. Leave to cool.
100g caster sugar
coming for supper, as it always sets in time. If Seeds of ½ vanilla pod
To make the posset, place the cream, sugar,
you’re in a tearing rush, the posset can be done Bunch of basil vanilla seeds and basil in a pan and bring to a
Juice of 1 pink grapefruit
and dusted within a few minutes. If you have Edible flowers, to serve
light boil, simmer for 3 minutes, take of the heat
time to spare, we suggest making something and leave to cool for a few minutes. Remove the
crunchy to go with it, such as cardamom and basil leaves and stir in the grapefruit juice. Pour
pistachio shortbread. This recipe will create into ramekins, place in the fridge and leave to set
Josh Shinner

more cookies than needed for the dessert but (usually a couple of hours). Squeeze over a little
that’s the point, as you’ll have them to look grapefruit juice, decorate with edible lowers, and
forward to the next day with a cup of tea. serve with cookies on the side.

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 53
HOMEWORK
Tony Chambers on the cratspeople taking over
London for a week, Scandi design for children
and the RA’s recent facelit

Life CRAFTS
T
he fourth edition of London Crat Week,
running from 9-13 May, once again rallies
cratspeople and connoisseurs across all
disciplines from Britain and beyond to
celebrate the act of making — and the skill and
dedication it entails.
As ever, the programme ofers an abundance of THE EXPERIENCE
activities, ranging from studio visits hosted by 2015 From Finland’s Artek Toto wooden dolls (above) to Denmark’s Kay Bojesen monkeys
Turner Prize-winners Assemble and jeweller Shaun Leane, to Sweden’s Babybjörn carriers, the Nordic countries have long led the pack in
children’s design. Century of the Child: Nordic Design for Children 1900 to Today,
to demonstrations of pottery, shoe, knife, watch, candle which recently opened at the V&A Museum of Childhood, traces the best and most
and globe-making, to fragrance and calligraphy progressive of Nordic design, architecture and art for little ones, ofering interactive
workshops, to tours of Parliament led by the conservators experiences including a Norwegian ‘storytelling hut’. Until 2 Sep (vam.ac.uk)
who maintain its furniture, ittings and fabrics.
Exhibitions by prestigious local brands — Dunhill,
THE BUILDING
Rolls-Royce, Fortnum & Mason, Luke Irwin — are detly The Royal Academy celebrates its
juxtaposed with showcases of overseas talent, in particular 250th anniversary this year with
from China, Korea and Japan. an overhaul of its Burlington
Gardens building, now
The most alluring oferings are the accommodating an expansive
ones that transcend geographical collections gallery and a 250-seat
boundaries. At the showroom of lecture theatre, all in architect
British paper purveyor GF David Chipperield’s understated
manner. A bridge joining the
Smith, the Kuala Lumpur- building with the main RA
based architect Kody Kato is complex serves as the pièce de
creating a gravity-defying résistance, uniting disparate
spaces into a coherent whole.
installation of 5,500 origami (royalacademy.org.uk)
units, made from Japanese
Takeo paper. White Cube
Bermondsey is hosting a
THE TECHNOLOGY
breakfast with weavers from The Nokia Sleep represents the latest step
French workshop Atelier into health tech for the erstwhile mobile
Pinton, who have worked on the phone giant. The wi-i enabled pad its
under a mattress, recording sleep activity
monumental tapestry that anchors the and feeding it into a dedicated app that
ongoing solo exhibition of Brazilian artist Beatriz facilitates better rest. It can also act as a
Milhazes. Meanwhile, over in Clerkenwell, Danish switch to automatically control lights,
furniture manufacturer Carl Hansen & Søn is joining thermostats and various home appliances
as the user gets in and out of bed.
forces with Hiut, a Welsh denim purveyor that uses £99.95 (health.nokia.com)
vintage Japanese looms to produce its jeans. Their event
on 10 May will see classic Nordic designs upholstered in
Hiut fabrics, giving a fresh take on two artisanal
techniques. While all of these crats may be rooted in Archy type:
Far
s hid
speciic cultural traditions, it’s cross-cultural pollination
THE PERSON
M

that elevates them and ensures their continued resonance

Chris Floyd; Paul Phung; Hayes Davidson
ou

Having created the Museum of Contemporary

ss

in the modern world. Art in Cleveland and the Victoria Beckham

avi

London Crat Week shows that there remains a need lagship on London’s Dover Street, architect
and a desire for crat — especially when combined with Farshid Moussavi has taken on a challenge
of a diferent sort — redesigning the storied
contemporary imagination — in an era of mass toy department at Harrods. Her new space
manufacturing and digital technology. It’s the only is divided into eight sections, each in a
festival of its kind in the world for now, but I’m sure its distinctive colour from loor to ceiling to
message will spread and others will follow. convey a playful mood, ofering a powerful
visual metaphor for the immersive experience
9-13 May (londoncratweek.com) that makes bricks and mortar retail special.
Tony Chambers is brand and content director at ‘Wallpaper*’ (farshidmoussavi.com; harrods.com)

54 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18
 ESCAPE
EDITED BY DIPAL ACHARYA

WHERE TO EAT
NOLITA is a must for
fine dining in a relaxed
atmosphere. Chef
Jacek Grochowina
combines classical
Polish influences with
cutting-edge cuisine.
I love this place for the
simple decor and amazing
dish presentation. The table by the
kitchen is the best seat in the house as
you can see the chefs in action. Polish
cuisine is exciting, rich and… delicious.
Perhaps it’s not the world’s most famous
Flying colours: Warsaw’s old town
WHERE TO SHOP
food, but it’s certainly one worth trying. Top of my list is MOKOTOWSKA
STREET, one of the most beautiful
Warsaw thoroughfares that survived
LOVE AND the Second World War and preserved
its old character. It’s perfect for
WARSAW window shopping as it’s full of small
boutiques such as Wonders or the best
With a rich cultural history, flower shop in town, Bukieciarnia. Try
Przegryź for Warsaw’s best pierogi or
post-communist Warsaw is Słodki Słony if you are a fan of all
changing rapidly. Polish fashion things sweet, including traditional
designer Magda Butrym Polish yeast cakes. Another great
gives her guide to the perfect place is the concept store GALILU,
WHERE TO STAY weekend in the city which offers niche cosmetics and
The fin-de-siècle landmark HOTEL perfumes. It is one of the only places
BRISTOL was gutted during the in Warsaw that sells my favourite
Second World War, but sensitive skincare brand, Omorovicza.
renovation has restored many of its
art nouveau flourishes. Its location,
between the old town and historical WHERE TO DRINK
shopping street, Nowy Świat, is ideal. Cocktail bar CHARLIE is a
Look out for the beautiful Column hidden speakeasy situated
Bar or Café Bristol, which is one on the first floor of a beautiful
for those with a sweet tooth. old apartment building
Rooms from £75 (hotelbristolwarsaw.pl) offering great music and
WHERE TO VISIT real Warsaw society. The
Be sure to see the exhibition cocktails (below) are addictive,
WHAT TO PACK pavilion (above) at the MUSEUM but the most interesting
OF MODERN ART next to the aspect is the ‘subconscious
Your weekend COPERNICUS SCIENCE menu’, from which clients
capsule wardrobe CENTER and VISTULA can order mystery drinks
RIVER. The area by the river based on their scent. The
GUCCI dress, wasn’t popular for years, but music changes with a
£2,430, at net-a-
porter.com
with all the new developments it new daily theme, playing
Przygotowania by Edi Hila
has become super trendy. at the Museum of Modern Art everything from indie pop
Visiting the exhibitions together to slow jazz —
with a stroll along the shore and a drink recently it held
in one of the summer bars is a perfect way a Gatsby night.
MANSUR GAVRIEL
bag, £485, at to spend an afternoon. The pavilion is a Few people know
matchesfashion.com unique, wooden, modular construction about the bar, so
designed by the brilliant Austrian you will often find
ISABEL MARANT
loafers, £400, at architect Adolf Krischanitz. It was also the cool kids of
brownsfashion.com designed so that the façade can be used Warsaw’s creative
Getty

as a canvas by artists. scene there.

27.04.18 ES MAGAZINE 57
 MY LONDON
ANYA HINDMARCH
AS TOLD TO LILY WORCESTER

Home is…
With my husband and a sort
of moving feast of ive children
in Westminster. But I am
currently dreaming of moving
on to a houseboat, so watch
this space.

Which hotels do you stay

at in London?
I was lucky enough to stay in
the Antony Gormley room at
Favourite shops? The Beaumont hotel (above)
M Moen & Sons butcher and just before it opened. It is an
Nardulli for ice cream — both experience not to be missed.
are near our oice in Clapham.
Cutler and Gross for glasses What makes someone a
(above), Green & Stone for Londoner?
pencils, The Design Museum A deep sense of irony.
website for gits, Arthur Beale
for inspiration. What are you up to at
the moment for work?
Flat out in the studio working
on AW19, our new ‘Anya
Smells’ candle
collection (let) and
we are just about to
The accessories designer drinks at the launch ‘Pimp Your
Nags Head in Knightsbridge and loves Phone’, which allows
a bacon sarnie at New Covent Garden you to customise your
handset.

Where would you river and around the park. It is landlord kicks you out if If you could buy any
recommend for a irst date? about three miles. It keeps me you take a phone call. London building and live
Chelsea Arts Club (above). sane. I also recently got a there, which would it be?
Odd, louche and always fun. mudlarking licence (although Petersham House. Watch out
I haven’t had a chance to use Bogliones!
What was the last play it yet).
you saw? Where do you go to let
Pressure. It stars David Most memorable meal? you hair down?
Haig but is also my son Bert A warm bacon sandwich and I once spent the night in the
Seymour’s irst professional a cup of tea at New Covent bed department of Peter Jones.
stage role. It’s about man who Garden Flower Market (below)
had to make a call on the early in the morning on my Biggest extravagance?
weather for 350,000 men’s own. Heaven! Where would you most Massages. I met Liz (not giving
lives for D-Day. I can highly like to be buried? you her number, sorry Liz!)
Rebecca Reid/Eyevine; PA Images

recommend it. Favourite pub? The life drawing room (above) years ago, who visits once a
The Nags Head on at the Royal Academy — if week and gives the best deep
Where do you Kinnerton Street. allowed. therapeutic massage I have
work out ? It is the polar ever had. We listen to Gregorio
I mainly walk opposite of a trendy Best thing a cabbie has Allegri’s Miserere on full
for exercise. I restaurant, which ever said to you? volume in the near darkness
get up early and is why I like it ‘Welcome home, love. Let me and it is a complete reboot
walk over the and Kevin the help you with that bag.’ ater a long week.

58 ES MAGAZINE 27.04.18